372 pages the beauty and makeup bible

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372 pages the beauty and makeup bible

  1. 1. The Beauty and Make up Bible Copyright © 2005-2007 CSI.Spain
  2. 2. Table of Contents Make-up.................................................................................................14 Foundation & Powder Features .............................................................14 Beauty box: Cover up ........................................................................14 Beauty box: Take cover .....................................................................19 Fixing dry, flaky skin under acne ......................................................24 Make-up artist to the stars Ross Burton advises on how to conceal dry and flaky skin under acne........................................................24 In the morning................................................................................24 During the day................................................................................25 In the evening.................................................................................25 How to apply face powder.................................................................26 Puffs...............................................................................................26 Brushes...........................................................................................26 Making the most of your make-up: foundation .................................28 Mixing and Blending .........................................................................30 Quick fixes for beauty blunders.........................................................31 Cakey or too-dark foundation........................................................31 Spider-legs mascara .......................................................................31 Creased eyeshadow........................................................................31 Overplucked eyebrows...................................................................31 Go-faster blusher............................................................................31 Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot ...............................................31 Manky nails....................................................................................31 Overdone or streaky self-tan..........................................................31 The best three wash-off skin tints......................................................35 Tips for choosing make-up for Asian skin.........................................38 Covering an uneven complexion ...................................................39 Applying foundation..........................................................................40 What’s the easiest way to apply foundation?.................................40 Foundation for uneven skin tones..................................................44 2
  3. 3. I never know what colour foundation to use because my face is two slightly different colours. Do you have any suggestions? .............44 Help! I want to hide my tattoo.......................................................45 How can I cover facial eczema? ....................................................47 Is powder necessary? .....................................................................49 Lips Features......................................................................................50 Vaseline Lip Therapy, 99p.............................................................50 Blistex Herbal Balm, £2.25............................................................50 Virgin Vie Lip Defence SPF15 Anti-Oxidant Lip Balm, ..............50 Clinique, Superbalm Lip Treatment, £8.50 ...................................51 Lancôme, primordiale lèvres, £20 .................................................52 Caboodles Flower Power lip balm in cherry, £2.79.......................52 Lypsyl lip balm in Strawberry, £1.20 ............................................53 Simple Sun Lip Protector Factor 25, £3.75....................................53 Dry, flaky lips ....................................................................................54 Flaky lips are painful and unattractive. Here's how to get back that perfect pout. ...................................................................................54 Lip service..........................................................................................55 Has your pucker lost its power? Try these lip rejuvenating products – they’re the perfect therapy for chapped, weather-weary lips......55 Lipstick tips........................................................................................58 Nine tips to help you get the best from your lippy ........................58 Making the most of your make-up: lipsticks .....................................60 Sidra Shaukat, author of Natural Beauty, explains how to create new colours from your existing lipsticks.......................................60 Making your lips look thinner............................................................62 John Nelson of Shu Uemura gives us a master class in making lips appear thinner.................................................................................62 3
  4. 4. Selecting the right lip colour..............................................................63 Not all shades of lipstick suit everyone. Different shades look different on different skin tones.....................................................63 Using lip pencils ................................................................................64 Four reasons to have a lip pencil in your make-up bag .................64 How do I stop lipstick 'bleeding'?..................................................66 Eyes & Eyebrows Features................................................................67 Applying false eyelashes................................................................67 Beauty box: 10 waterproof mascaras put to the test ..........................69 Beauty box:........................................................................................73 Finding your brow shape ...................................................................77 A professional-looking eyebrow shape will transform your face - find out how to do it yourself.........................................................77 Good grooming for eyebrows............................................................79 Whether you spend four or 40 minutes on your make-up, well- groomed brows are the difference between looking OK and looking fabulous..........................................................................................79 Essential tools ................................................................................79 Grooming tips ................................................................................79 Latest trends: Eyelash extensions ......................................................81 Forget nail art, and eyebrow threading. Having eyelash extensions is the latest craze to take the beauty world by storm. Celebrity converts include Victoria Beckham. Plucky journalist Jennifer Howze gave them a road-test.........................................................81 Quick fixes for beauty blunders.....................................................85 Cakey or too-dark foundation........................................................85 Spider-legs mascara .......................................................................85 Creased eyeshadow........................................................................85 Overplucked eyebrows...................................................................85 4
  5. 5. Go-faster blusher............................................................................85 Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot ...............................................85 Manky nails....................................................................................85 Overdone or streaky self-tan..........................................................85 Six steps for easy eyeliner application...............................................89 How do you apply eyeliner? I always get a crooked line that ends up sitting too high. How do the professionals get it right on the line of the eye? I would like to apply it to my upper lids but don't know how.................................................................................................89 The cardinal rules of eye colour.........................................................91 Think you know everything about eye make-up? Brush up with our quick refresher course........................................................................91 Eyes & Eyebrows Q&As ...................................................................93 hoosing the right eye shadow.........................................................93 I'm struggling with false eyelashes ....................................................95 Is home waxing a good idea?.............................................................97 Perfect eyebrows............................................................................99 This year's look for eyes ..............................................................100 Using liquid eyeliner....................................................................101 Cheeks Features ...............................................................................103 Blushing marvelous .....................................................................103 How to apply blusher.......................................................................105 Quick fixes for beauty blunders.......................................................107 Types of blusher...............................................................................111 Fragrance Features...........................................................................113 26 beauty buys for under a tenner................................................113 Body basics..................................................................................113 Skincare........................................................................................113 Eyes..............................................................................................113 Lips ..............................................................................................113 Nails.............................................................................................113 5
  6. 6. Foundations..................................................................................113 Hair ..............................................................................................113 Perfume........................................................................................113 Stockists.......................................................................................113 Making your own fragrance.............................................................118 Putting on the spritz .........................................................................121 Seasonal scents.................................................................................125 As with food, for every season there are certain scents that just seem to 'go' with the weather. Indulge yourself with our fragrant suggestions...................................................................................125 Hadley Freeman gets a whiff of the sexiest summer fragrances .....130 Oral Features........................................................................................133 Avoid dog breath - give your tongue a manicure ............................133 Brighten up your smile.....................................................................136 Everyone wants whiter teeth, but if you haven't been blessed with a perfect set you can give nature a helping hand with the latest technology. Kate Rew looks at the options..................................136 How to have sweet-smelling breath ...............................................140 Bad breath affects most people at some stage of their life, but there are simple measures to prevent it recurring. Michele Simmons investigates...................................................................................140 Take care of your teeth ....................................................................144 What's the best way to keep dentists at bay? Michele Simmons advises..........................................................................................144 Favourite Looks Features.....................................................................149 6 steps to red carpet glamour ...........................................................149 Bring out the sexy you.....................................................................152 Create a Narnia-inspired ice-queen look..........................................154 Get gorgeous for valentine's day......................................................159 1. Relax ........................................................................................159 2. Exfoliate...................................................................................159 Get your autumn face on! ................................................................164 Foundation ...................................................................................164 6
  7. 7. Eyebrows......................................................................................165 Glam-it-up before you go-go.. .........................................................167 Make-up for redheads ......................................................................171 Q. I just changed my hair colour and now I'm a redhead. However, my old make-up routine doesn't seem to work well with my new hair colour. What should I do?.....................................................171 Perfect make-up for beautiful brides................................................173 Choose a make-up counter:..........................................................174 Estée Lauder.................................................................................174 Max Factor...................................................................................174 BeneFit.........................................................................................174 Bobbi Brown................................................................................174 Molton Brown..............................................................................174 Origins..........................................................................................174 Perfect wedding make-up ................................................................178 For your face................................................................................178 For your eyes................................................................................179 For your lips and cheeks ..............................................................180 The changing look of Renee ............................................................183 General style: ...............................................................................183 Make-up.......................................................................................184 Hair ..............................................................................................184 Informal icon at the Shark Tale film premiere.............................185 General style ................................................................................185 Make-up.......................................................................................185 Hair: .............................................................................................185 Red carpet classy at the Golden Globe Awards...........................186 General style ................................................................................186 7
  8. 8. Make-up.......................................................................................187 Hair ..............................................................................................187 Favourite Looks Q&As....................................................................188 Spring looks .................................................................................188 Celebrity Looks Features .................................................................190 9 cult beauty classics....................................................................190 Confessions of a beauty expert ........................................................195 Get the Celebrity Look - Scarlett Johansson....................................198 Get the celebrity look: Alicia Keys..................................................202 Get the celebrity look: Angelina Jolie .............................................204 Get the celebrity look: Brandy.........................................................208 Get the celebrity look: Courteney Cox Arquette .............................211 Get the celebrity look: Eve ..............................................................215 Get the celebrity look: Gwen Stefani...............................................218 Get the celebrity look: Halle Berry..................................................222 Get the celebrity look: Jennifer Lopez.............................................225 Get the celebrity look: Kate Winslet................................................229 Get the celebrity look: Nicole Kidman ............................................232 Get the celebrity look: Penelope Cruz .............................................235 Get the celebrity look: Sheryl Crow ................................................238 Get the celebrity look: Sienna Miller...............................................240 Get the look: Charlotte Church........................................................243 Get the Look: Mischa Barton's Make-up.........................................245 Hair secrets of the stars: Beyoncé Knowles.....................................247 Hair secrets of the stars: Charlize Theron........................................251 Hair secrets of the stars: Cynthia Nixon ..........................................253 Hair secrets of the stars: Dame Judi Dench .....................................255 Hair secrets of the stars: Dido's look................................................256 Hair secrets of the stars: Felicity Huffman ......................................258 Hair secrets of the stars: Halle Berry ...............................................261 Hair secrets of the stars: Jennifer Aniston .......................................263 Hair secrets of the stars: Jennifer Lopez..........................................265 Hair secrets of the stars: Julia Roberts.............................................268 Hair secrets of the stars: Julianne Moore.........................................270 Hair secrets of the stars: Juliette Binoche........................................274 Hair secrets of the stars: Kate Hudson.............................................277 Hair secrets of the stars: Kim Cattrall..............................................279 Hair secrets of the stars: Kristin Davis ............................................283 Hair secrets of the stars: Marisa Tomei ...........................................285 Hair secrets of the stars: Nicole Kidman .........................................288 Hair secrets of the stars: Nicole Kidman .........................................290 Hair secrets of the stars: Sarah Jessica Parker .................................292 Star style...........................................................................................294 Glowing Jennifrer Lopez .........................................................294 Soulful Alicia Keys..................................................................294 8
  9. 9. Radiant Kate Winslet ...............................................................294 Glamorous Halle Berry ............................................................294 Shimmering Courteney Cox Arquette......................................294 Wholesome Brandy..................................................................294 Natural Sheryl Crow ................................................................294 Sultry Penelope Cruz ...............................................................294 Retro Gwen Stefani..................................................................295 Vibrant Angelina Jolie .............................................................295 Sexy Nicole Kidman ................................................................295 celebrity hair flair.........................................................................295 Blonde diva: Beyonce Knowles...............................................295 Redhead crop: Cynthia Nixon..................................................295 Classic cut: Dame Judi Dench .................................................295 Short and sassy: Dido...............................................................295 Cutting edge: Halle Berry ........................................................295 Long and classy: Jennifer Aniston...........................................295 Shoulder-length glam: Jennifer Lopez.....................................295 Pretty woman: Julia Roberts ....................................................295 Short and layered: Juliette Binoche .........................................295 Elegantly sexy: Kim Catrall.....................................................295 Classic sophistication: Kristin Davis .......................................295 Sleek and silky: Liv Tyler........................................................295 Tousled temptress: Madonna ...................................................295 Straightened waves: Nicole Kidman........................................295 9
  10. 10. Bold curls: Sarah Jessica Parker ..............................................295 Tips & Tricks Features.........................................................................296 12 travel-sized essentials..................................................................296 Are your cosmetics past their use-by date?......................................299 Know when to throw....................................................................300 Naturally the best? .......................................................................301 Shelf life checklist........................................................................302 Mascara........................................................................................302 Tips ..............................................................................................302 Moisturiser...................................................................................303 Foundation Shelf Life ..................................................................304 Tips ..............................................................................................305 Powder .........................................................................................305 Tips ..............................................................................................306 Concealer .....................................................................................306 Tips ..............................................................................................306 Blusher.........................................................................................307 Tips ..................................................................................................307 Eyeshadow.......................................................................................307 Tips ..................................................................................................307 Eyeliner and lipliner.........................................................................308 Tips ..................................................................................................308 Lipstick ............................................................................................308 Tips ..................................................................................................308 Lipgloss........................................................................................309 Tips ..............................................................................................309 Fragrance......................................................................................309 Tips ..............................................................................................309 Best kept secrets...............................................................................311 Confessions of a beauty expert ........................................................314 Finding your brow shape .................................................................318 Create the line ..............................................................................318 10
  11. 11. Pluck ............................................................................................318 Brush and trim..............................................................................318 Fill in:...........................................................................................319 Good grooming for eyebrows......................................................320 Essential tools ..............................................................................320 Grooming tips ..............................................................................320 Hair and make-up tips for the festive season...................................322 Colours.........................................................................................322 Top tips ........................................................................................322 Foundation ...................................................................................323 Eyes..............................................................................................323 Lips ..............................................................................................324 Work to party...............................................................................324 Party Hair.....................................................................................325 How to apply blusher.......................................................................327 Creams and gels...........................................................................328 Looking good on a hangover ...........................................................329 Skin ..............................................................................................329 Make-up.......................................................................................330 Hair ..............................................................................................331 Fashion.........................................................................................332 Make-up to go..................................................................................334 Making the most of your make-up: foundation ...............................338 Making the most of your make-up: lipsticks ...................................341 Organising your beauty drawer........................................................343 Consider their shelf life................................................................343 Keep it simple ..............................................................................344 Pre-party pamper programme ..........................................................345 Quick fixes for beauty blunders.......................................................349 Cakey or too-dark foundation......................................................349 11
  12. 12. Spider-legs mascara .....................................................................349 Creased eyeshadow......................................................................349 Overplucked eyebrows.................................................................349 Go-faster blusher..........................................................................349 Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot .............................................349 Manky nails..................................................................................349 Overdone or streaky self-tan........................................................349 Redheads Unite!...............................................................................353 Member advice: ...........................................................................353 The golden rules of bronzing...........................................................356 The perfect winter make-up bag ......................................................359 Face..............................................................................................359 Eyeshadow...................................................................................361 Lipstick ........................................................................................361 Mascara........................................................................................362 Powder .........................................................................................363 Blusher.........................................................................................363 Fragrance......................................................................................363 Wonderful winter splurges...........................................................364 Tips & Tricks Q&As............................................................................366 Caring for make-up brushes.............................................................366 Fashion forecast 2006 ......................................................................368 Patterns and prints........................................................................369 Shapes and styles .............................................................................370 By day..........................................................................................370 By night........................................................................................371 Accessories ..................................................................................371 Must buys.....................................................................................372 12
  13. 13. 13
  14. 14. Make-up Foundation & Powder Features Beauty box: Cover up When it comes to camouflaging dark under-eye circles or the occasional spot, there’s no greater secret weapon than concealer. And, as the weather grows increasingly chillier, the days of successfully hiding these flaws behind the last of a sun-kissed tan are long gone. Because we could all use a little help taking cover, iVillage staff members tested some of the most popular brands of concealer to see how they rated. Here’s what we found. 1. Liz Collinge Easy Stick, dark; £7.50. This product doubles as a foundation and concealer. The stick applicator glided on 2. easily and transformed into a powdery consistency on application. However, I felt that it wasn’t heavy enough to cover red spots or dark circles – it works better as a foundation rather than a concealer, because it helps even out your complexion. I’d buy this product if I was well- rested and didn’t need to cover up severe under- eye circles. I loved the packaging – the classy silver tube was compact enough to fit into my make-up bag. The price was right, too. 14
  15. 15. 3. No. 7 Blemish Concealer, fair; £5.25. This product went on smoothly and covered evenly. I normally prefer using concealer for the under-eye area, namely because my shadows are so bad, but this one was actually better for spots than for under-eye circles. I’d buy this product because it wasn’t heavy and didn’t cake or flake when I put it on. It was a good colour for me and helped to even out my skin tone. 4. L’Oréal Perfection Magic Concealer, £5.99. I liked the creamy and smooth consistency of this product. It did look patchy, however, on the areas where my skin was dry. It brightened the skin around my eyes effectively and was also good at lightening the darker parts of my face. I tried using it on spots as well, but it wasn’t as effective – in fact it drew attention to them. The concealer lasted all day, but I would’ve reapplied if I was going out in the evening. Overall, the product was quite good value and I liked it because it made me look less tired. 5. Maybelline Great Wear Concealer, fair; £4.95. I was very impressed by how well this concealer camouflaged my under-eye circles – it hid them without looking cakey on my skin. I used this product mainly under my eyes, but I also dotted it on various spots and blotchy, red patches. I’d definitely buy this product because it was easy to 15
  16. 16. apply, gave me good coverage and looked nice either with or without foundation. It has now replaced my old concealer, which seems much too cakey by comparison. 6. No. 17 Colour Corrective Stick, £2.50.The consistency of this concealer made it hard to apply. However, it came in the shape of a lipstick applicator, which I liked. It covered dark circles, but left me with a green tinge (the colour of the concealer) in the places I used it. Although I’m aware the green is meant to even out the darkness of under-eye circles, even by using the product sparingly I couldn’t avoid looking seasick. It also accentuated my pores. I had to apply foundation over the concealer to cover up the green colour, so I probably wouldn’t buy this product. 7. Estée Lauder Touche Éclat, £20. This concealer was quite thin and it absorbed easily into my skin. The concealer is pumped into a clever paint brush-type applicator. In fact, it really lightened up the area around my eyes. I don’t think it would be very effective as a cover-up for blemishes or spots because it has such a light consistency. It’s very expensive, but worth it if you want a light cover up to camouflage your under-eye circles. I loved this product because it was perfect for my skin and it effectively covered up my dark circles. 16
  17. 17. 8. Clinique Soft Conceal Corrector, £11.50. This product went on smoothly and evenly with a little smudging action. I used it on my under-eye area and a few blemishes, and overall it was quite long- wearing. It camouflaged under-eye circles better than spots. I’d buy this product because I know the brand is trustworthy and it seemed to soften fine, dry lines. 9. Estée Lauder Lucidity Light Diffusing Concealer (SPF 8), light; £15. This concealer had a great consistency – not too thick or thin. It was very pale and had a nice light diffusing sheen to it. The concealer is contained in a thin wand and is easy to apply via the spongy, pen-like tip. It covered the red patches around my nose very well. I do, however, think this concealer would be more effective used with a foundation or tinted moisturiser, as it was obvious where the concealed patches were. I loved the sleek packaging of this product, but the texture was slightly too thick for me. For someone used to wearing a daily foundation, though, this concealer would be a must-have item. 10. Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish Concealer, £16. This product had quite a subtle and natural effect – it covered my under eye circles fairly well, but I needed to use a foundation too. I’d buy this product because it was a treat to use. I don’t normally use concealer, as some 17
  18. 18. brands can be too cakey and dry. However this one was great, as it is quite light and subtly blends in very well. I will continue to use it and recommend it to friends. 18
  19. 19. Beauty box: Take cover Foundation is the one product we all dread buying because it’s essential for an even complexion but it’s difficult to find one that works with your skin tone. However, choosing a foundation that’s right for you doesn’t have to be a daunting task. Experts recommend starting with a shade you think may work, blending in a bit on the back of your hand, then waiting a minute to see if the colour changes once applied. Keep testing hues until you find one in which you can’t tell where one foundation ends and your skin begins. We did our own version of this test in-house and also looked at some other characteristics that make foundation a must-have for your cosmetic bag. Here’s what we uncovered. 1. Boots’ Botanics Fresh Faced Foundation Stick, ‘Sweet Ginger’: £10 / 10g. This foundation was thin and it glided easily on to my skin. I didn’t need to apply powder, as it was great as a foundation and a concealer. It stayed on for most of the day and made my skin feel very soft. I liked this product because it was practical, easy to use, covered blemishes and didn’t make my skin break out. I would certainly use it again. 19
  20. 20. 2. Clarins’ Hydrating Liquid Foundation (Oil- Free): £17 / 30ml. More on the thin side than thick, this product was quite smooth and matt. It lasted all day and camouflaged my dark undereye circles nicely while minimising fine lines. I have oily skin, so I actually applied a bit of powder later in the day when I felt a little shiny. It seemed slightly too ‘make-upy’ for me – I would probably just buy an undereye concealer in the future. 3. Superdrug’s Kolor Everyday Invisible Foundation, ‘Ivory’: £3.99 / 45ml. I liked the medium-thick consistency, but this is a little heavy for everyday use for someone with decent skin. It went on nicely but had too much of a dry, powdery finish, so it might be better for someone with oilier skin. I liked the fact that it had UVA/UVB filters, but I prefer a foundation with SPF cover. Also, when I buy foundation, I like to feel I’m treating my skin to something luxurious (and preferably French), so the utilitarian packaging put me off – it looked like a paint tube. 4. Boots’ Liz Collinge Natural Foundation: £7 / 40ml. This product went on smoothly and evenly and didn’t look cakey. I usually use thinner foundation, but I was impressed with this one as it hid my undereye circles and blemishes quite well. I applied some bronzing pearls to give myself more colour which had a nice effect. I didn’t need 20
  21. 21. to reapply the foundation all day, but I’d say it’s better suited for nighttime on account of its thick texture. I liked this product because it gave me nice, natural looking coverage and made me feel confident. 5. Mac’s Studio Finish Matte: £14.50 / 30ml. This foundation moisturised my skin and made it feel very soft. It didn’t conceal my undereye circles or blemishes, but I didn’t mind because it evened out my skin tone. It lasted the entire day and I didn’t need to reapply. I liked this product because it was practical, came in a handy size tube, it was a nice colour, wasn’t too thick and it complemented my skin tone. I would certainly buy it again. 6. Maybelline’s Smooth Result Foundation, ‘Cameo’: £6.99 / 30ml. This medium heavy foundation wasn’t too cakey and provided fantastic coverage. It went on evenly and made my skin look really smooth. Unfortunately it did not minimise my spots that well, but it gave me a fresh look when I put powder over it. The foundation stayed on all day, it moisturised my skin and gave it a lovely glow. I would certainly buy this product again, and I have recommended it to all my friends. 7. Boots’ No. 17 Sheer Cover Tinted Moisturiser, ‘Extra Fair (05)’: £3.75 / 40ml.This product had a nice consistency, but wasn’t as moisturising as the product name led me to believe. It evened out my 21
  22. 22. skin tone, but I did need to apply powder on top to cover my blemishes. Plus, it didn’t make me break out, and I’ve got quite sensitive skin, so top marks there. I think all make-up should be reapplied in the evening, so I wasn’t surprised that this foundation didn’t last all day. I would buy this product, but probably only as an inexpensive moisturiser to keep at work rather than one I use all the time. I’d have preferred it if it were a little thicker. 8. Origins’ Stay Tuned Balancing Face Make Up, ‘Linen’: £15 / 33mls/1fl oz. This light and pleasant product went on easily but didn’t completely mask the circles under my eyes. It did, however, blend in the uneven bits. I applied a little powder for a matt look, but it probably wasn’t necessary as it dried quite matt anyway. The foundation lasted all evening, but I probably should have applied another coat during the day. It’s designed for a combination skin – greasy in the middle, dry at the sides. It worked well on my face and made my skin feel soft. I would definitely consider buying this product. 9. Prescriptives’ Virtual Skin Foundation: £22 / 30 ml. I liked the thin and light consistency of this foundation. It felt like I wasn’t wearing anything, and it moisturised my skin. It is light, though, so it’s better for giving an even colour and a bit of a 22
  23. 23. glow rather than hardcore coverage – good for mild eye bags but not for large volcanic eruptions. It made my skin feel softer and smoother and I didn’t apply powder, although you probably could do without clogging your pores. I would have reapplied if I was going out in the evening. It’s quite pricey, but I’d buy this product again because it’s very good. 10. Anna Sui’s Liquid Foundation: £22.50 / 30ml. This is a very light foundation and is perfect for everyday use if you don’t have much to hide. If you only want to apply it to certain areas like the dreaded T-zone or on ruddy cheeks, it’s easy to blend in. I felt quite glamorous with it on, and all my red blotches and patches were evened out. I love the creamy consistency, the packaging and the lovely rose scent of this product – I would buy it again. It gave me a good, glowing complexion and made me feel radiant. 23
  24. 24. Fixing dry, flaky skin under acne Make-up artist to the stars Ross Burton advises on how to conceal dry and flaky skin under acne As one of Lancôme's make-up artists, Ross Burton has had a behind-the-scenes presence at many important fashion shows and photo shoots. He has made up models and movie stars, including Lancôme spokeswoman Uma Thurman. Here Ross shares some great ideas for fixing the dry, flaky skin that often appears under acne. In the morning Step 1: Use an oil-free cleanser to keep the skin's surface clean. Follow with a toner to remove any make- up that remains on the skin. Pat dry and follow with a light, hydrating moisturiser with a pump applicator (to prevent dipping your fingers into anything and transferring it to your face). Step 2: If you wear foundation, use an oil-free formula only in the areas where you need it. Step 3: The biggest mistake women make in concealing acne-prone skin is using too much product as a cover- up. Use a fine-bristle make-up brush to blend three 24
  25. 25. warm shades of concealer to match your skin tone, and apply the concealer with a dotting movement instead of left to right paint strokes. The goal is to diminish the redness and discoloration caused by the pimple(s). Step 4: Set with transparent, oil-free powder to match your skin tone. During the day Step 1: Always carry compact powder for touch-ups. Make sure the puff is not facing the make-up. Keep the plastic piece between the puff and the powder, or turn the puff upside down. Step 2: If the area around your spot(s) becomes visibly dry during the day, apply a clear gel on top of your make-up to keep the area shine-free without over-drying it. In the evening Step 1: Cleanse and tone the skin following the recommended morning routine, and then exfoliate. Exfoliating is an important step because as a blemish dries, there is dry skin around the entire area. An exfoliant removes the excess dry skin. You can exfoliate the whole face or only the areas where you have clogged up and flakey skin. For very clogged skin, exfoliate three times a week. 25
  26. 26. How to apply face powder Discover the difference between powder puffs and brushes and when to use which Puffs Powder puffs come in myriad sizes, shapes and colours, but the most important thing to consider is the texture of the puff. A medium-textured puff made out of chenille is the best to apply powder. The fine-textured puffs that usually come with powder cause streaking. They may also actually remove foundation. If the hairs on the puff are too long (marabou for example), you'll get fuzz on your face. To use: it's best to use a puff if you tend to shine excessively or when using a powder foundation. Do not apply too much powder at once. Better to blot oil later in the day than have a caked, overdone look to your face. Brushes A brush allows you to apply a lighter amount of powder than a puff. Large and fluffy, powder brushes can be used with both loose and pressed powder formulations. To use: dip the brush in the powder and tap it to shake off loose powder. Then brush the powder evenly over your face in downward strokes. 26
  27. 27. Tip: Follow the direction your facial hair grows in order to get the most even application. 27
  28. 28. . Making the most of your make-up: foundation Foundations come in so many different textures and combinations that it is very easy to make mistakes. The foundation should blend in with your natural colouring and blend in so that it looks as though you are not wearing any! Your colouring will not exactly match the colour of the foundation, so it is wise to spend some time creating your own foundation to match your skin. The key to getting the exact colour combination for your skin is experimentation. For your initial experiments you may prefer to use the cheaper products to limit the cost of your mistakes. Some cosmetics counters may give out free samples, especially of new lines, or you may want to try the teenage end of the market, where products are budget-priced. You will need to use at least three foundations to create your individual colour. If you are pale, stick to two or three of the palest colours in the range; if you are dark, pick foundations from the darker end of the range, adding one pale shade to lighten the mix if it gets too dark. If your colouring is medium, pick one pale, one medium and one dark colour, all from the same range. 28
  29. 29. You can, of course, try blending the foundations that are already in your make-up bag, but you will find that they do not blend easily with each other. For example, if one is dewy moisturising foundation, and one is a matte oil- free foundation, each will offset the effects of each other. So, if possible, stick to colours from the same range. Liquid foundations are best for blending, as well as being ideal for oily and black skins, some being oil- absorbent. 29
  30. 30. Mixing and Blending Lay out the foundations on a clear table. Have ready a few clean, flat saucers for blending, along with a few teaspoons. You will need a notebook and pen with which to note down the different combinations you are blending. Have a clear bottle ready to store your exact shade of foundation when you have finished experimenting. Start mixing different combinations of the foundations, making a note of each one. Try to be precise - that is, if you have used one spoon of shade A to two spoons of shade B, note this down exactly. When you have three or four mixes, put them on your cheek/jawline area in thick strips with a lip brush in good light. Critically assess which foundation is the best. If the foundations do not match your skin, try blending again, until you reach your perfect combination. Make a note of the exact combination and blend them in exactly the same proportions to make a full size bottle. There you have it, the perfect foundation for your skin colouring! 30
  31. 31. Quick fixes for beauty blunders A tide mark the Thames Estuary would be proud of? Cheekbones that look more like go-faster stripes than rose blooms? Barbara Daly, make-up artist to the late Princess of Wales and top beauty consultant, has some tips on correcting the most common beauty disasters Cakey or too-dark foundation Spider-legs mascara Creased eyeshadow Overplucked eyebrows Go-faster blusher Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot Manky nails Overdone or streaky self-tan Cakey or too-dark foundation Fix it: 'Remove rather than add colour,' advises Barbara Daly. 'If colour is unevenly blended, don't add more and attempt to rub in - remove with a tissue, working from the jaw and hairline outwards with a sweeping motion. You'd naturally have more colour in your cheeks anyway, and you don't want to be blending down into your collar. Don't worry about the area around 31
  32. 32. your eyes, as you'd naturally be wearing more make-up here, too.' Spider-legs mascara Fix it: 'DON'T wet the lashes in the hope of just removing your mascara - it will just clog up,' says Barbara. 'Similarly, don't apply more. Comb through dry lashes with an eyelash comb to remove dry product. (Dust translucent powder lightly over the cheeks to pick up any mascara flecks). Apply one coat of mascara carefully and check - you may only need one application. Concentrate on the outer lashes to open up the eyes further.' Creased eyeshadow Fix it: 'The key to applying eyeshadow is to apply translucent powder UNDER a powder shadow or OVER a cream-based one,' says Barbara. 'Wrap your index finger in a tissue and gently remove any residue. Then apply a SMALL amount of fresh colour, remembering the powder rule. Use a smaller eyeshadow brush with a teeny amount of powder - you can always add more.' Overplucked eyebrows Fix it:'Choose an eyebrow pencil as close to your brow colour as possible and lightly pencil in, following your natural line,' advises Barbara. 'Then go over with an old toothbrush to soften the line and make it appear more natural.' 32
  33. 33. Go-faster blusher Fix it: 'Don't be tempted to add more colour to 'even out' the stripe,' cautions Barbara. 'Remove some colour with a tissue and dust a little translucent powder over cheeks AFTER removing, to even out skin tone but avoid cakiness. A very common mistake, usually made when applying make-up in bad light.' Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot Fix it: The best advice is not to squeeze in the first place. But hey - you've gone and done it - what now? 'Apply TCP and wait for the area to dry,' Barbara advises. 'Then apply concealer to the red area and over the base of the spot. See how this looks before applying loose powder - you don't want it to look crusty. Minimising the redness is the best way to disguise a blemish - and make sure you wait until it's stopped 'weeping''. Manky nails Fix it: 'Never make the mistake of thinking your other glossily polished nails will hide the one that's chipped,' says Barbara. 'Carry the polish with you so you can touch up if needs be. If this sounds too high maintenance, ditch the glossies altogether and use a clear shade.' This season's bright polishes will brighten up the appearance of the skin on your feet, too, if life's too short for pumice stones.' 33
  34. 34. Overdone or streaky self-tan Fix it: 'There are products on the market that claim to remove fake tan disasters but it's a chemical reaction that turns you brown and, once that's started, there's not much that can be done,' says Barbara. 'Get yourself into the shower with a loofah and exfoliate really well will a creamy body wash to help slough away dead skin cells. If you're out and about a light-reflecting product will even out skintone and disguise any major streaks.' For the face, use a tinted moisturiser to even out colour, but avoid further cheek colour or bronzer - instead go for nude eye and lip colour so that it looks as fresh as possible. Emphasise eyes so the attention is drawn there. Or you could just don huge shades and wait for the paparazzi to mistake you for a celeb?. 34
  35. 35. The best three wash-off skin tints Guerlain Teint Doré £15 for 125ml Every time Guerlain think about discontinuing this product there is an outcry - which is why it has been around since the Second World War. There is reason why: it is a simple water-resistant formula - a liquid tint - which works extremely well. Kerry (39) was a little hesitant at first about using it, she thought it looked as if it would stain her skin (and clothes) and she would not be able to get it off if she made a mistake. 'I wasn't sure how to apply it as it's very runny,' she said. 'But I followed the instructions and it was easy. Such a nice colour, it looked like I'd had a weekend in the south of France. I love it.' Our tip: the best way to apply this product is to soak a cottonwool ball with it and stroke it lightly over your face. The science bit: in a class of its own, this skin tint feels like water and has a high pigment content, so gives skin some realistic colour even when used sparingly. Best applied on a cottonwool square and stroked lightly over your face. Becca Translucent Bronzing Gel £25 for 50ml Our testers gave this a high rating for two main reasons: it blends incredibly well into skin and its pump dispenser 35
  36. 36. is practical and easy to use. Emma (34) was new to this cult make-up brand, developed by Australian make-up artist Rebecca Morrice-Adams, but was one of the testers who gave it 10/10: 'The colour is very natural, first class,' she said. 'It's a bit off-putting initially because it's very dark, but it soon blends into your skin. I looked so healthy I didn't bother with any other make-up.' Our tip: the best way to apply it is to pat it onto your forehead, cheeks and chin and blend it in with quick, feathery strokes. The science bit: a really creamy gel which smoothes over skin like silk but feels cool and gives very sheer, even results. Best applied by patting it onto your forehead, chin and cheeks and blending it in with quick, feathery strokes. Sex Symbol Aerotan £15.45 for 150ml A temporary tan in a spray-on can - how easy can it get? 'Bloody marvellous,' wrote Hannah (31). This tan did the rounds with our testers and although all were dubious about trying it, most could not believe how good it was. It literally provides spray-on colour and can be used to enhance an existing tan, and give pale skin an instant colour or deepen darker-toned skin. 'I really loved this product. It's fun, easy to use and it turned me a great colour. I used it on my face and body,' says Jackie (49). Our tip: the best way to apply this product is to put it into the palms of your hands first, then smooth it over your face. The science bit: the original 'tan in a can', this self-tan projects a fine and even spray onto 36
  37. 37. skin (it is best applied from the palms of your hands rather than directly onto your body); it gives skin a flattering sheen and has the best scent of all self-tans - yummy coconut! 37
  38. 38. Tips for choosing make-up for Asian skin f you're an Asian woman you'll know all about the trauma of finding a foundation to suit your skin colour, but there are a few key issues that should help to determine your choice While the shelves seem to be piled high with all manner of powders and foundations promising even coverage, light-deflecting pigments, illuminating finishes and more, the chances of you finding an exact match for your skin tone are pretty slim. Farah Naz, a British Asian who was frustrated by the lack of choice decided to launch her own brand to fill this obvious gap in the market. The result was EX1, a brand new and affordable range of foundations and powders aimed exclusively at Asian women. Here's her advice on finding the right foundation. What to look for Asian women need to look out for foundation that has yellow undertones. These will enhance the natural colour of the Asian skin tone. Make-up for black or Caucasian skin has pink and red undertones, which are unsuitable for the Asian complexion resulting in a look that is either too orange or chalky and ghost-like. 38
  39. 39. Pitfalls to avoid Selecting the right colour foundation is about choosing a shade that is as close to the natural skin tone as possible. Trying to darken or lighten the skin I tone with foundation will only result in a mask-like finish that will leave the skin looking dull. Where's the best place to test it? The best place to test foundation is on the jawline. The skin tone on the hand could differ to that on the face and it is essential that the make-up blends in well around the jawline so as not to leave a noticeable line. Covering an uneven complexion Generally a medium foundation is best for good coverage of imperfections, as it will not appear too thick. In more serious cases where extra coverage is required, it is best to use a concealer rather than a heavy foundation. The whole look can then be sealed using a light dusting of powder. 39
  40. 40. Foundation & Powder Q&As Applying foundation What’s the easiest way to apply foundation? The easiest and fastest way is with a sponge. Make up sponges, available at your local chemist, come in many shapes. The ‘wedge’, however, is by far the most effective because its corners make it easier to cover hard-to-reach places, such as the corners of your eyes and the creases next to your nose. Concealer brushes can also help you apply foundation in small crevices if your sponge is too large. To use a sponge, dip it in a very small amount of foundation. Then, press it against your face, rolling it gently over the area you want to cover. Don’t drag the sponge across your face, as this can create a streaky effect. Press a tissue against your face when you're done to even out your application and lift off any excess foundation. Another trick of the trade: Make-up artists love using brushes to apply foundation because they cover big areas quickly. Synthetic bristle brushes don't absorb the make-up, which makes it easy to apply evenly, and synthetic brushes are also easier to clean than the natural-bristle ones. To use, put a small amount of foundation on to the brush and apply a thin coat to the 40
  41. 41. skin as needed. Make sure you don’t use too much foundation, or you could be left with a very cakey, mask- like appearance 41
  42. 42. I have Asian skin and I find it really hard to buy the right colour of foundation. I've tried Prescriptives custom blend but even that was wrong. I think it may have something to do with the lighting in department stores. Is there a fool-proof method of buying a foundation that is the right colour? I always think I've cracked it, only to find that I've bought something too pale or too orangey. Any advice would be great. The essential issue for Asian skins is finding a base that is predominantly yellow based, without being too warm and orange. The best company at catering for Asian colouring is Shu Uemura, a Japanese company (and therefore founded on creating colours for Asian colouring) that's a favourite with top makeup artists and is available at Harvey Nichols and Shu Uemura boutiques (call 020 72407635 for stockist enquiries). Lighting in department stores can be deceptive, so always try foundations in daylight before you buy, but another reason that even 'custom blending' might not have worked for you could be that foundations are wont to change colour on the skin according to individuals. It is therefore essential to both let foundation 'settle' for a few hours, and to check how it looks in a variety of different lighting situations. 42
  43. 43. And don't throw out all your reject foundations: try mixing and matching them to your skin yourself (your face isn't a uniform colour all over - makeup artists advise matching foundation to a tone that's somewhere in the middle of the lightest and darkest areas you can see). Trial and error should lead you to the ideal shade...until the season's change or you get a tan, and you have to start all over again, that is! 43
  44. 44. Foundation for uneven skin tones I never know what colour foundation to use because my face is two slightly different colours. Do you have any suggestions? Yes. It is not unusual for people - particularly those with darker skin - to have an uneven skin tone. In this case, the skin in the centre of the face is a lighter colour than the area around the edges of the face and neck. It's much easier to darken skin tone with foundation than to lighten it, so avoid using a lighter foundation on your whole face. This can make darker skin look grey and unnatural. The lighter colour won't blend into the neck properly and may create a "mask-like" appearance. The smartest thing to do if you have an uneven skin tone is to purchase two different coloured foundations. You can create a "spotlight" effect by using the lighter one in the centre of your face and the darker one as a contour around the edges. Another particularly easy option for everyday is to choose a shade that matches your neck. By using this foundation on your face and neck, the centre of your face will look darker and your overall look will be more even. 44
  45. 45. Help! I want to hide my tattoo Do you know of any make-up brands that will cover up a tattoo? A cosmetics line called Dermablend is the market leader in make-up designed to cover everything from tattoos to scars, birthmarks and spider veins. There are various consistencies available - from the original Compact Cover Crème (in 10 shades to match the palest to the darkest of skins) to the Leg and Body cover (in 9 shades, this is slightly less thick but will cover larger areas). What sets Dermablend cover-up apart from full- coverage foundations is that its long-lasting, really opaque coverage formula really 'masks' the skin imperfection or tattoo. It is vital to match the shade exactly to your skin - this may well require buying two shades and mixing them for a customised colour, so be prepared to spend some time applying the product if you want the disguise to be really foolproof. If your aim is to never see that tattoo again (rather than just occasionally cover it up), I'd strongly suggest laser removal. While relatively expensive (all cases are 45
  46. 46. obviously individual, but most tattoos will take several treatments) it is the only way to permanently get rid of a tattoo. The latest Q-switched lasers work by pulsing light onto the tattoo inks, causing a reaction that breaks them down into tiny particles that allows the pigments to be dispersed (and then flushed through your system). 46
  47. 47. How can I cover facial eczema? Can you recommend a good make-up brand for covering up redness and skin suffering from eczema? It's on my face, so I really need a very gentle make-up that works well. When it comes to covering sensitive skin conditions such as eczema, less is definitely more. While the temptation is to slather your face with full-coverage foundation in a bid to disguise the redness, heavy bases will only highlight eczema's other characteristic skin complaints - dryness and uneven texture. The solution, therefore, isn't to try and conceal, but rather control, the condition. A skincare regime that specifically addresses the 'atopic dermatitis' condition is therefore vital. Dermatologists tend to recommend a super-simple, straightforward cleanse (with an aqueous cream) and moisturise (using back-to-basics moisturisers like E45 or Eucerin) routine, which can be supplemented with prescribed cortisone creams when flare-ups occur. Many skincare companies promise to calm and soothe sensitive skin, and while they are doubtless effective for skin that is mildly sensitive (ie some regular-strength skincare feels too harsh) they are unlikely to really 47
  48. 48. address conditions like eczema. However, I have heard countless rave reviews after recommending the following products to eczema sufferers: Aromatic Garden Essence Super Sensitive Skin Cream, Allergenics Steroid Cream Emollient and Dermalogica Gentle Soothing Booster, a genius serum that can be applied alone or added to a cream in order to really help calm irritation. Back to your question of make-up, though. Again, think of trying to control the redness rather than mask it. Head of make-up artistry for MAC, Terry Barber, explains that 'pale green colour correctors counteract red tones in the skin, so are great for knocking high colour out of the face.' He recommends applying a sparing amount of very light green base control (MAC and Shu Uemura both make excellent ones) in with your moisturiser, or applying a thin veil prior to foundation on isolated areas of redness. The foundation you pick must be entirely hypoallergenic, non-comodogenic and as pure as possible. Don't go for anything that offers a host of high- tech anti-ageing, lifting or oil-controlling benefits if you have eczema. No frills is best - Almay make some great ones, not least because the company are so fastidious about the gentleness of their make-up that they only ever use ingredients out of their short-listed 500 (despite the fact that over 10,000 are permitted and available to them as a cosmetics company) 48
  49. 49. Is powder necessary? I use foundation every day under the rest of my make-up, but do I also need to use powder? Not necessarily. Face powders are primarily used to minimise shininess or excessively oily areas of the skin. If you have oily skin or find yourself looking 'shiny' throughout the day, apply powder to the T-zone first (the area across your forehead and nose), then blend it outward to other areas of your face with a brush or a puff. Put on the rest of your make-up, including blusher, over your powder. There are two types of powders: loose and pressed. Loose rpowder has a light, airy consistency and is preferred by professional make-up artists because it's less likely to streak on the skin. This type of powder gives your face a very smooth, matt look and lasts longer than pressed powders. Pressed powder is treated under great pressure to create a compact, cake form. Oils are often added to the formula to ensure that the powder sticks together longer, but this can make the product streak on your face. Good luck. 49
  50. 50. Lips Features Beauty Box: Lip balms and lip protectors Vaseline Lip Therapy, 99p A bit like beauty lard in a tin, Vaseline is pretty hardcore. It's intensely greasy, but really sorts out dry and cracked lips. I always have one of the handy little tins on my desk at work and in my handbag, and apply a generous layer several times a day to ward off any hint of dryness. It's virtually impossible to apply lipstick on top, since it sits on your lips like an oil slick for at least 15 minutes. Blistex Herbal Balm, £2.25 I'm a fan of Blistex already, but this is the first time I've used this particular lip balm and I'm pretty impressed. Unlike other Blistex balms, this comes in a stick format. The balm isn't too gloopy or too runny and the herbal taste - a mixture of aloe, avocado, camomile, shea butter and jojoba - is quite nice. The blurb claims that the balm moisturises and soothes and I agree. It also has an SPF of 15, which is a great added extra. My lips do feel softer and moisturised, although I have noticed that I do need more of it as time goes on. I presume my lips are just getting used to it. Virgin Vie Lip Defence SPF15 Anti-Oxidant Lip Balm, £5.50 Hands up - I'm a lip balm addict and have been since 50
  51. 51. the age of 13. There are not many balms I haven't tried, but the Virgin Vie range is virgin territory for me. Described as being 'perfect for combating dryness', it sounds perfect for my winter-worn lips. The balm is sleekly packaged in a posh lipstick case, but unfortunately after a few applications, the stick started wobbling around and looked a bit fragile. Otherwise, the balm is good, though a bit sticky. It has a plain taste, gives your lips a lovely glow and most importantly does seem to nourish and replenish them. Clinique, Superbalm Lip Treatment, £8.50 I've always suffered from dry, flaky lips, and am a seasoned lip balm wearer. This pinkish balm was thicker in texture than most other balms I've tried and slightly stickier, although not so sticky as to be off-putting. A small amount of it went a very long way - a tiny dab was enough to cover my whole lips and unlike some of the cheaper brands I've tried, it stayed put on my lips for longer rather than migrating around my mouth. My lips felt pleasantly tingly for a while after I put it on and also significantly more hydrated. I wouldn't recommend it for application under lipstick as it's a bit too thick, but it's a great nourishing treatment for slicking onto your lips before bed. 51
  52. 52. Lancôme, primordiale lèvres, £20 This is less of a lip balm and more of a lip treatment. The cream comes in a tiny pump dispenser in Lancôme's signature classy packaging. Touted as a 'plumping balm', this isn't the easiest product to apply on the go as you can't put it directly on your lips and have to use your fingers. But it feels satiny-smooth and non- greasy. It gave long-lasting moisture to my winter-dry lips and my lipstick didn't slide off when applied on top of the cream. As for delivering younger and plumper- looking lips - this isn't a replacement for collagen implants if you're looking for a Jagger-pout. But I definitely enjoyed using this more than the cheaper balms and my lips feel as if they've been treated to some posh tlc. Caboodles Flower Power lip balm in cherry, £2.79 from Superdrug Caboodles Flower Power Cherry lip balm fulfills every girl's dream of lip gloss. It's light pink. It smells sweet. It comes in a clear plastic pot shaped like a flower. If you love wearing sandals and live for nail polish, this is the finishing touch. But while your fashion sense may be satisfied, your chapped lips may not. A fingertip of the stuff goes on smoothly, but after about half an hour it starts to feel gritty. It even made my sensitive lips peel. Still, at just £2.79, it's a lot cuter than pulling your average lip balm pot out of your bag. Who knows? Flower Power might just grow on you. 52
  53. 53. Lypsyl lip balm in Strawberry, £1.20 I'm not really a great lip balm wearer - not because I have luscious soft lips but because I just forget to put it on. The great thing about Lypsyl's strawberry stick is that it smells and tastes great - in a kids' sweets kind of way - and this is enough to keep me putting it on! The one down side is that it doesn't seem to stay on my lips long, although this could be down to me licking it off too regularly! Not what you'd call a glamorous, luxury item. But you can't beat it for a nostalgic trip down memory lane back to childhood. iVillage verdict: Best tasting Simple Sun Lip Protector Factor 25, £3.75 A beauty editor once told me that lip balms are a great base for lipstick and I've been using them ever since. I loved the translucent look and feel of this product and within days my lips - which are notoriously sensitive - felt so much better, softer and more moist. I've discarded lots of lip balms in the past because of their greasy, 'globby' quality. Thankfully, there were no such problems with this product. Definitely the least greasy product I've ever used. The sun was in hiding on the day I tried it, so I can't speak about its sun protection qualities. But I'd definitely try it out in the summer. Generally, I just loved the way it felt. 53
  54. 54. Dry, flaky lips Flaky lips are painful and unattractive. Here's how to get back that perfect pout. Apply your favorite lip balm and rub lips together. Using a dry toothbrush, brush lips gently in circular motions until the flakes have dislodged. Wipe lips clean and rub in more lip balm. Repeat daily and skip the lipstick until your pout returns to normal. If you really can't live without a little colour on your lips, try using a tinted lip balm. 54
  55. 55. Lip service Has your pucker lost its power? Try these lip rejuvenating products – they’re the perfect therapy for chapped, weather-weary lips Around 92 per cent of women use lipstick each day, but the truth is we’re still more likely to apply an eyecream at night than to reach for a specialist lip product. However, there comes a time when this much- overlooked area needs special attention, especially in winter. Thankfully, there are now hundreds of products that allow us to lavish love and attention on our mouths. The best way to kiss dry, chapped lips goodbye is with a little gentle exfoliation and moisturising. Make-up artists tackle models’ dry lips by rubbing them gently with a toothbrush topped with a lip cream. Then they sweep on lashings of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream (£17), and leave it to soak in for 15 minutes or more while they apply the rest of the make-up. For a relaxing, at-home boost to your lips, beauty expert Josephine Fairley suggests mashing a quarter of a ripe papaya until it makes a juicy paste. Then, lie down on a towel and apply a generous amount to the lips and the skin around the lips. Leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes, rinse it off and apply lip balm. Papaya contains 55
  56. 56. exfoliating enzymes and can help to soften and refine lip lines. If your lips are prone to dryness and cracking, check out a daily maintenance product like Blistex Revitaliser, which has been shown in trials to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the surface of the lips in one month. Available at most chemists, it contains AHAs (skin-exfoliating alpha-hydroxy-acids), moisturisers, vitamins A and E and an SPF 15. Lips are one of the most exposed areas of skin, yet they have an extremely thin outer layer and few sebaceous glands. Centrally heated offices (which can be particularly dry) and whipping winter winds both take their toll. If you are going skiing or to hotter climes, remember that lips contain no melanin and can quickly become badly burnt without protection. Here are some of our favourite tips and lip-saving products: For an ultra-moisturising lip experience, look out for Liz Earle’s Naturally Active Superbalm (£12.50) or Superbalm Concentrate (£16.50), which contains plant oils such as avocado, rosehip and lavender (call 01983 813 914 for stockists and mail order). Liz doesn’t use any petroleum-based ingredients in her products, unlike many other lip formulations. 56
  57. 57. If you’re on a budget, try Nivea Lip Repair (£1.95). At this price, we suggest keeping one in your pocket, one on your desk and one by your bed. We also like Nivea Lip Care in Strawberry or Cherry (£1.39). Available at most chemists. Beauty therapist Eve Lom has created Kiss Mix (£9.50), which works mini miracles on tender, chapped lips. (Available at Space NK, or call 0870 169 9999 for mail order). Check that your lipsticks contain condition- enhancing ingredients, especially if you use long- lasting lipsticks, which tend to dry out lips. Clarins Le Rouge lipsticks (£13), are packed with lip- softening shea butter, wheatgerm oil, natural waxes and protective vitamin E. 57
  58. 58. Lipstick tips Nine tips to help you get the best from your lippy 1. Store lipstick - and perfume - in the refrigerator. It'll last longer. 2. Never use a tester on your lips - it's unhygienic. Test lipstick on your fingertips instead of the back of your hand - the colour and texture are closer to that of your lips. 3. If you want your lipstick to last, use pencil first as a base. Outline and colour in your lips with pencil (nude, if your lipstick shade is light) and slick your lipstick on top. 4. Your lips will also look softer, 'smudgier,' and less defined if you don't use pencils or lip liners. 5. To 6. avoid lipstick on your teeth, after application, run your index finger through the middle of your lips and pull it back out. The excess will come off on your finger, not your teeth. 7. In an emergency make-up situation, your lipstick can double as blusher. (But never use blusher on your lips.) 8. Outline your lips in pencil before you apply lipstick or gloss if you don't want your lipstick to feather. 58
  59. 59. 9. Women over 50 usually look better with a cream lipstick rather than a matte or gloss. Every bit of moisture helps. If your lipstick shade turns out to be brighter than you thought it would be, colour in your lips with a pencil a few shades darker than your lipstick (for instance, brown pencil under dark red lipstick) and layer the lipstick on top. Or coat the lipstick with a darker lip gloss, which will turn down the heat. 59
  60. 60. Making the most of your make-up: lipsticks Sidra Shaukat, author of Natural Beauty, explains how to create new colours from your existing lipsticks If you are bored with your existing lipsticks, or cannot afford to buy new shades, fear not. You can use your existing lipsticks to create literally hundreds of combinations of new and exciting colours. All you need is the back of your hand (for blending), a lip brush, and your existing lipsticks. It is best to have a varied colour spectrum, including reds, pinks, oranges, browns, gold, violets and blue-reds. If you do not have some lipsticks from the basic ranges, you may want to ask friends if they have some spare lipsticks that they are not using. The wider the initial range of colours you use, the more shades you will be able to create. Simply blend the colours onto the back of your hand with a lip brush, taking some lipstick from each of your chosen shades, and apply the 'new' shade directly to your lips. You may want to experiment with three or four combinations before you decide on one to try on your lips. 60
  61. 61. You can also co-ordinate lipsticks with your clothes; for example, if a blouse is salmon pink, blend brown with a pink lipstick. If a dress has a special shade of red in it, you can highlight it by creating the exact shade of red lipstick! 61
  62. 62. Making your lips look thinner John Nelson of Shu Uemura gives us a master class in making lips appear thinner Shu Uemura's resident makeup artist John Nelson knows the value of good beauty brushes and tools, and uses only the best to make up women's faces - from Geoffrey Beene fashion models to women from all walks of life. Working from the Shu Uemura boutique in New York City's Soho, he dispenses all kinds of beauty tips and secrets as he plies his trade using the Shu Uemura line of products. Here John helps show you how to make your lips appear thinner. STEP 1 The goal, says John, is to neutralise the lips by toning them down. Skip the lip liner, he advises (it accentuates the lips) and use a neutral lipstick so the colour is not too intense. STEP 2 Apply foundation or powder to clean lips (so the lipstick can adhere better). STEP 3 Apply lipstick with a lip brush to the entire lip area, staying within your natural lip lines. Do not use lip gloss since it reflects light and makes the lips appear larger. Use matte and creme formulas which are flat and do not reflect light. 62
  63. 63. Selecting the right lip colour Not all shades of lipstick suit everyone. Different shades look different on different skin tones Your lips are the one area of your face where you can really play with colour. The best way to find the right shade for you is to try it on. But here are a few guidelines to help you make a choice: If you have dark skin you have the greatest flexibility: Plums, chocolates, reds, pastels and oranges all work with your skin. (Generally, the deeper your skin tone, the deeper the shade of lipstick you can wear and look beautiful.) If you have a medium skin tone with golden undertones, all shades of red are for you. Brown-based mauve, sheer berry or spicy brown will also look great. If you have pale skin, stick to nudes, beige tones, light corals and light pinks. Sheer formulations will probably be most flattering on you. 63
  64. 64. Using lip pencils Four reasons to have a lip pencil in your make-up bag Lip pencils are indispensable to any makeup artist because they can be used to: Boost your lip colour Apply lip liner that matches your lipstick all over lips before adding lipstick. Keep lipstick from bleeding Apply lip liner matching your lipstick along the edges of your lips before putting on lipstick. Create a fuller mouth Apply lip liner to the outside line of your lips. Follow with lipstick. Make your lips appear smaller Apply foundation over the edges of your lips and carefully draw lip shape with a liner just inside your lip line. Follow with lipstick. 64
  65. 65. Lipstick won't stay put 65
  66. 66. How do I stop lipstick 'bleeding'? If your lipstick tends to travel outside your lip line, avoid creamy or glossy lipstick textures; matte lipsticks usually stay in place longer. If you have a little extra time, layer your lip products: first apply a sheer wash of foundation on your lips. Next, line lips with a pencil that matches your lipstick. Fill in with lipstick using a brush for precise application. Blot, then brush translucent powder lightly over lips to set the colour. 66
  67. 67. Eyes & Eyebrows Features Applying false eyelashes False eyelashes give you an instantly glamorous look - and they're easier to apply than you'd imagine There are two types of false eyelashes: full lashes, which add density to the entire lash line, and individual lashes, which can be used to fill in sparse areas or dramatically open up the eye area. Full lashes are easier to apply and don't look as natural, but individual lashes require a steadier hand and a bit more practice. Whichever style you choose, follow these tips to make your lashes look as natural as possible: Before you apply the lashes, line your upper lash line with a mahogany eyeliner and smudge it slightly to create a smoky effect. This will help to conceal the lashband. Apply the glue to your finger, lightly pull the lashband through it, and wait a moment. With individual lashes, dip the end of the lash in the glue. Apply the false lashes as close to your natural lash line as possible; press the lash down for a 67
  68. 68. few seconds on the outside of the eye. With individual lashes, apply them to the outside corners of the eye and work your way toward your nose. For the most natural look, all you need is a few individual lashes per eye. After you've applied the false lashes, curl them along with your real lashes and apply mascara. It's best to reserve this look for special occasions; long- term use can lead to eye irritation from the glue, and even infections. 68
  69. 69. Beauty box: 10 waterproof mascaras put to the test The eyes have it – except when they’re smudged and have that black-around-the-eye raccoon look. And, of course, winter’s the time when your otherwise perfect mascara smudges and runs in the rain and wind, leaving you feeling slightly less than sexy. iVillage staff took several of the most popular brands of waterproof mascara and tested them to see which best withstood the rigours of the season. Here’s what we discovered. 1. Boots’ No. 17 Waterproof Mascara, brown/black – £3.99. This colour was a bit too light for me, as I’m used to 2. buying black mascara. It was also quite thin, so when I blinked soon after applying, it came off on my cheek. It also didn’t thicken up my lashes as much as I usually like. However, the mascara came off easily – a real plus, as most waterproof ones are difficult to remove. 3. Bobbi Brown Essentials Waterproof Mascara, brown – £12.50. ‘Lush but smudgy’ sums up this product. I didn’t like the shape of the applicator because it didn’t allow for enough definition, although the colour was a nice subtle brown – perfect for daytime and with matt eyeshadow. Although it stayed on forever, it smeared a lot. 69
  70. 70. While high-maintenance, it was great looking and made my lashes look thick and sexy. I liked this product, but it’s too hard to use when rushing to get ready in the morning. It might be better for night when you have more time to prepare and want to feel a little more made up. 4. Body Shop Colourings, aubergine – £4.50. The wand and brush were mini-sized, so it was difficult to apply (I thought it might be mascara for children to be honest). I loved the colour – a very soft plum, nice for daytime. It didn’t clump or smudge, probably because it didn’t go on thick. It stayed on all day once I put on about three coats and it made my lashes look so subtle that I forgot I was wearing it. I liked this product a lot, but you do have to apply several coats. Once it’s on, though, it’s comfortable and pretty and it doesn’t flake or get in your eyes. 5. Clinique Gentle Waterproof Mascara Long- Wear Lash Intensifier, black – £11.50. Fairly easy to apply, although it seemed quite dry and I had to put on two coats to see a difference. It didn’t clump or smear and stayed on all day. I liked how it made my lashes look, although the difference was subtle rather than dramatic, which was a little disappointing. 6. Christian Dior Aqua Dior Waterproof Mascara, black – £14.50. The actual mascara was quite smooth so it went on easily. It only made me look 70
  71. 71. raccoon-like when I rubbed my eyes. This mascara has conditioner in it, which is probably better for my lashes because I wear mascara everyday. And, as I swim regularly, it means I can keep it on without looking a state. I like the fact that you can control how dramatic it looks without it going on in clumps. The only thing I didn’t like is that it never really dries out so it can smear a bit. 7. Lancôme Extencils Waterproof Mascara, black – £15.00. I liked this product very much. It didn’t smudge, had a nice dense colour, and didn’t clump so it looked really natural but lush. It came off easily and completely and didn’t smear onto my pillow – I’ll buy this when my sample runs out. 8. L’Oréal Longitude Lengthening and Separating Waterproof Mascara, black – £6.99. This product is great if you’re looking to add a little extra fullness to your lashes. It went on easily, didn’t clump or smear and I had no problem removing it. It’s meant to be waterproof, but I never went swimming in it, so I’m not sure it was. Some mascaras try to make their brand more appealing by producing a very elaborate applicator, but this wand was simple and still did the trick. I will continue to use it. 9. Max Factor Lashfinity Waterproof Mascara, black/brown – £8.00. I liked this product, but I’m not sure it would be good for women with sensitive eyes as it stung a bit on application. I think a black 71
  72. 72. colour would have suited me more, but for a natural look with good staying power this is an excellent choice. It didn’t clump or smudge, but I would have liked it more if it was a bit thicker. It stayed on all day, and I naughtily slept in it and it was still there in the morning. It didn’t do that much to my lashes – it made them quite long, but I prefer a fuller look. 10. Maybelline Full ’n’ Soft Waterproof Mascara, black – £5.99. The applicator’s thickness made it a little difficult to apply to my lower lashes, although it didn’t run or smudge at all – even after a night in a very hot, cheesy club. I did like this product and it had real staying power, my only reservation was the thickness of the brush. 11. Boots’ No. 7 Waterproof Mascara, brown – £6.30. This mascara went on neatly and had a nice finish to it. I liked the colour a lot, as my eyes are dark brown. It didn’t clump or smear and it made my lashes look much thicker and longer, plus it made my eyes stand out which was nice. I liked this product because it was easy to apply, the shape of the applicator appealed to me and the colour was great. I would definitely use it again. 72
  73. 73. Beauty box: The eyes have it The smoky look is back. Ubiquitous at many recent catwalk shows and everywhere on the high street, this season make-up companies are offering eye pencils – the essential tool for creating this sexy and dramatic effect – in perfectly smouldering shades. Don’t get too heavy-handed when applying, though, or you’ll look more raccoon than sex goddess. But which colour to choose? While more unusual hues include browns, plums, berries and olives, iVillage staffers test-drove several of the popular classic black, grey and deep blue liners for a truly eye-opening experience. 1. Clinique Quick Eyes, black – £11. This product has an eye pencil on one end and eye powder on the other. The pencil was thin, but too cloying to sharpen. It pulled my upper lid when I put it on, which was rather unpleasant, and when applied it was barely noticeable. Applied more forcefully, the look was alarmingly ‘Cleopatra at the disco’. I also had to smudge the liner, otherwise it looked like I had outlined my eyes with a crayola-style crayon. When thickly applied, this product made my eyes look bombed out. I wouldn’t buy this product 73
  74. 74. because it was tough to put on, and was either hardly noticeable or extremely scary looking. 2. Elizabeth Arden Smoky Eyes Powder Pencil, gunmetal – £11.95. This thin pencil stayed on like a cream but had the soft look of a powder pencil. It was long-wearing and easy to apply. I also quite liked the smudger tip as it helped create a smoky look, which made me feel sexy. This product didn’t irritate my eyes, and it’s opthalmologist-tested and fragrance-free. At the end of the night it came off quite easily with eye make-up remover. I’d definitely buy this product in the future. 3. Estée Lauder Eye Defining Pencil, black – £10. This pencil was a perfect size – not too thick, not too thin – and it had the best texture of any pencil I’ve ever used. I didn’t have to press too hard when putting it on, which was nice. I applied it twice to get real definition, but you only need one swash and you’re done. I also have very sensitive eyes and was quite surprised that it didn’t irritate them. I’d consider purchasing this product in the future as it was easy to use, had nice definition and was good for both day and night. 4. Superdrug Kolor Eyeliner, slate – £1.99. This pencil felt a bit odd to me because I usually use liquid liner. It was, however, easy to apply and went on smoothly. I was able to achieve the smoky look I wanted, but during the day the liner began to smudge and look messy. I’d buy this 74
  75. 75. product if I wasn’t wearing make-up and suddenly needed to attend an important unexpected meeting. But, I wouldn’t buy it otherwise because it didn’t last all day or overly impress me. 5. Boots’ Liz Collinge Eyepencil, midnight – £4. This thin pencil was extremely dry and scratchy. Even when I tried to blunt the end a bit, I felt like I was applying chalk to my eyelid. It didn’t come off very well and it pulled at the skin on my lid. I didn’t reapply, as it was so hard to get a clean line in the first place. The product was a good size, with classy silver packaging, however, it created little to no effect on my eyes. I was unable to get a smudge of colour even when trying to soften the pencil, and the colour and texture were both disappointing. 6. Maybelline Duets Liner/Shadow, sea and sky – £4.99. This pencil had a fine point for definition and a thicker one for highlighting. I liked the chunky pencil because it was easy to apply (I also love two-in-ones). The pencil was soft and smooth, and it didn’t drag my skin the way other pencils have in the past. The highlighter was quite powdery, which was good for a matt finish but required a few strokes to get a definite colour. The highlighter smudged and blended well, and it gave my eyes a very funky ‘disco’ look. I will definitely buy this liner when my current one runs out. 75
  76. 76. 7. Origins Kohl Mine – £5.50. This chubby, short pencil reminded me of a crayon and it went on very smoothly. It was easy to blend and smudge so I was able to get the effect I wanted. The product didn’t irritate my eyes and it had good staying power. I loved the way it made my eyes look – very sultry and smoky. I’d buy it again, as it was very easy to use, was small and easily portable. Also, the sharpening technique didn’t require a pencil sharpener – just a bit of sharp paper, which was provided in the box – very clever. 76
  77. 77. Finding your brow shape A professional-looking eyebrow shape will transform your face - find out how to do it yourself Create the line: to determine exactly where your brow should begin, hold a make-up brush or a pencil straight up and down against one nostril. Where the pencil lands by your brow is where it should begin. The brow should end a little past your eye (if it grows down too far it will drag your eyes down). If you have a natural arch, work with it. If you need to create one, look into your eyes. The arch of your eyebrow should fall directly above the outside of your iris. Using an eyebrow pencil, fill in the brow area that you want to preserve so you can pluck outside the edges. Pluck: begin plucking from underneath the brow, removing one hair at a time from the inside of the brow to the outside. If part of your brow is thin enough already, do not pluck that area. Pull hairs in the direction in which they grow. Brush and trim: using a small brush, brush your brows upwards. If they are too long, trim them very conservatively, cutting only a tiny amount at a time. 77
  78. 78. Fill in: once your brows are well shaped, you can use a variety of products to enhance them or fill them in as needed, using brow fixers, tinted brow gels, brow powders or brow pencils. 78
  79. 79. Good grooming for eyebrows Whether you spend four or 40 minutes on your make- up, well-groomed brows are the difference between looking OK and looking fabulous A well-shaped brow can lift and open your eyes, making you look younger, more sophisticated and more rested. If your brows are truly unruly, splurge and get them done by a professional, then be diligent about removing new growth to maintain the shape. Essential tools A large mirror near a window (natural light will allow you to see each brow hair clearly) A good pair of tweezers (Tweeze man are our personal fave) Grooming scissors A small brush (either a baby toothbrush or an old mascara wand that's been cleaned will do) Grooming tips To reshape your brows yourself you'll need about 40 minutes. Don't rush. Once you pluck a hair, it takes a long time to grow back. Remember, less is more. You can always go back and pluck again. 79
  80. 80. Before you pluck, determine what your best shape is. In many cases, nature has already given you an arch that will become more obvious when you remove hairs along the bottom of the brow. Don't try to copy someone else's brow - work with what you have. 80
  81. 81. Latest trends: Eyelash extensions Forget nail art, and eyebrow threading. Having eyelash extensions is the latest craze to take the beauty world by storm. Celebrity converts include Victoria Beckham. Plucky journalist Jennifer Howze gave them a road-test Before... ...and after Tears are pouring out of my eyes and an unbearably bright light makes me squirm, even with my eyes closed. Karen Betts is coming toward me with a pair of sharp tweezers -- I can hear the tinging of the pincers as they pinch together. They say it's not easy being pretty and it's true. I'm weeping and flinching under interrogation-level amps for the privilege of having long lush lashes Imported from the US, 3d Lashes are purported to look more natural and wear more comfortably than the spiky versions that have come before. Unlike the DIY kinds that you apply in strips or clumps, these are individual lashes, attached to your existing lashes one by one and 81
  82. 82. made of a synthetic material so light they don't weigh lids down. They supposedly last three months, although Betts, who trains aestheticians in applying the lashes, estimates two months is more realistic. Even so, the possibility of having eight entire weeks of forgoing mascara, looking alluring at dawn's first light and having fluttery feminine lashes a la screen goddesses of old is incredibly tempting. I do have apprehensions, but Betts puts these to rest. Can I wear my contact lenses with these extensions? (Yes.) Will my longer lashes hit the lenses of my glasses? (No.) Could I possibly have an allergic reaction to the adhesive? (It doesn't touch the skin, as the lashes are glued to your own rather than the lid.) Would I look like a spider-eyed goth freak? (Er, no, although I did have the option of different lengths up to 14mm and colours, including Velvet Purple and Mountain Green.) So I stretch out on a table and put myself under her power. Betts sits at my head, tapes down my lower lids and over the next hour and a half painstakingly applies lash by lash in standard black. My sensitive eyes water, my closed lids flutter and from time to time I can feel her picking at my lashes in search of the "youngest", shortest one to attach the falsies to, so they will last as long as possible. Despite all this, the procedure is entirely painless. I doze off a couple of times. Finally she says, 'Ok, all finished,' and I sit up to gaze at long Bambi lashes, inky, thick and natural looking. I flutter my 82
  83. 83. lashes. The gamine girl in the mirror flutters hers back. My eyes have graduated to femme fatale status. Of course, a girl's gotta put some effort into looking this good. That means no getting the lashes wet for the first two hours ("Yours may not last as long," says Betts, "because they were wet the entire time."). No using waterproof mascara or oily make-up removers, no curling your lashes, no rubbing your eyes, no steaming your face - the list goes on. Upon first reading, the list seemed onerous, but hewing to it was easy. I found I didn't even need mascara to emphasise my eyes. I began washing my face with a washcloth. I adapted my routine to accommodate the glamorous visitors on my lids and as a result they've been looking beautiful ever since. Six days after the first application one of the lashes did come out, as I was removing eyeliner -- it looked like a thick spider's leg. I placed it carefully on the edge of the shelf. I ponder getting a touch-up - Betts recommends having them every two to three weeks to keep the extensions looking full. And the best thing about these lashes: while I notice the effect immediately, it's days before anyone else remarks on them. 'They look so natural,' purrs one friend, studying me intently. 'I didn't even notice!' cries another who's a critic of obvious beauty enhancers, before asking me where I got them done. It's brought a hopeful image to mind, of Betts, tweezers in hand, coming toward me under a bright white light. 83
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  85. 85. Quick fixes for beauty blunders A tide mark the Thames Estuary would be proud of? Cheekbones that look more like go-faster stripes than rose blooms? Barbara Daly, make-up artist to the late Princess of Wales and top beauty consultant, has some tips on correcting the most common beauty disasters Cakey or too-dark foundation Spider-legs mascara Creased eyeshadow Overplucked eyebrows Go-faster blusher Squeezing the bejesus out of a spot Manky nails Overdone or streaky self-tan Cakey or too-dark foundation Fix it: 'Remove rather than add colour,' advises Barbara Daly. 'If colour is unevenly blended, don't add more and attempt to rub in - remove with a tissue, working from the jaw and hairline outwards with a sweeping motion. You'd naturally have more colour in your cheeks anyway, and you don't want to be blending down into your collar. Don't worry about the area around 85

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