Sustainability reporting on the social and environmental impacts of the 2011 Shanghai Fashion Week closing event. Shares ideas and progress on how to implement sustainability into an event , especially in China
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTFOREWORD The 2011 Shanghai Fashion week closing event brought together 1200 people to celebrate the success of the 2011 Shanghai Fashion Week. Hosted by the Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee with support from the Chinese Ministry of Commerce and organ- ized by P1.CN and We Impact, the fashion show and after event party were explorations of the relationship between fashion, sustain- ability and the power of culture to influence ideas about new social concepts. Produced as an event designed to promote the concept of “E-Fashion: Ethical, Eco, and Exceptional”, ethical and eco fashion lines by Camilla Wellton were featured besides the newest line from China’s emerging designer Zhang Chi. The show itself was designed to immerse the audience in the contrasting possibilities of living in harmony with our planet and each other with the apocalyptic potential of living in opposition to one another. Beyond the fashion show itself, we the organisers strived to produce the event following recognized sustainability principles. The ulti- mate purpose of this event was to showcase what the future of runway shows should be, as well as showing for the world the Chinese fashion industry, which is ready to take its place as a global trend-setter alongside more established international fashion industries like those seen in Europe. As Ann Wang, the Director of Strategic Projects at P1, Co-Founder of We Impact and project lead explains, ‘We devised an event that would integrate the concept of E Fashion (Ethical, Eco, Exceptional) into a highly visible fashion event to set an example for China. We consulted with experts around the world to make sure that the messaging was correct and then secured the main sponsor Lexus who used the opportunity to launch their new hybrid car. The result was an event that enabled the embodiment of what it means to be styl- ish, Chinese, eco and modern.’ Sustainable events are a very new concept in Asia. As such, standard practices are fairly non-existent in the events industry in China. As a result, there were many systemic and structural challenges faced when trying to produce this event following sustainable event management principles. However, there were significant and notable achievements. This report, created together with MCI Sustainability Services and We Impact, is the first ever sustainability report created for a fashion show in Asia. It provides an evaluation of the sustainability of the event management system and the logistical processes followed. It presents a summary of material actions implemented and indicators depicting the environmental performance of the event. The docu- ment closes with a list of practical recommendations that our next fashion show, or any other event, could follow to bring improved results and returns. We hope that our actions inspire others in China and beyond to do more to show that fashion events can be inspiring experiences and still align with principles of sustainable development. Team We Impact
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTSUSTAINABILITYAPPROACH Sustainability Principles: Eco, Ethical and Exceptional • • · Reduce, Reuse and Recycle materials · Eliminate persistent chemicals • · Account for carbon emissions • · Ensure good ethical labour practices • · Deliver an exceptional experience for participants, partners and employees • · integrate sustainability into the event concept and theme to increaseibilitySustainability Systems • · Target the concept to domestic and international mediaThis was the first Chinese Fashion Show to incorporate sustainability into the organisa-tion of the event. To provide rigour and a structure (or system) for sustainable event Sustainable Event Management Activitiesorganisation the organizers adopted the MCI Sustainable Event Management (SEM) Strategic Planning: The planning team leaders met to identify a strategy for the sustainableframework. Continued use of the system will more easily allow future organisers to im- performance of the event and created customized targets and Key Performance Indicators toplement the new international ISO20121 sustainable event management standards. help measure event success.Sustainability Vision Supplier Code of Conduct: Inspired by the United Nations Global Compact, a SupplierTo create an exemplar for fashion shows across the world by illuminating sustainability Code of Conduct was prepared for the event. The Code of Conduct outlined clear expectationsas a guiding light for Shanghai Fashion Week, the premier fashion event in the world’s for supplier compliance to ethical, responsible and sustainable business practices Event sup-fastest growing economy. pliers were asked to agree to the principles outlined in the Code of Conduct with a signature of a senior manager in the organization.Key Sustainability Issues• Carbon Emissions resulting from delegate transport and local event operations Stakeholder Engagement: Through a series of interviews, key suppliers including the• Waste produced by stage and set production venue, production agency, catering company and sponsors were engaged regarding sustainable practices and were offered coaching and recommendations for improved results.• Lack of availability and high cost of sustainability food and beverage options • Lack of efficient municipal recycling program. Sustainable Procurement: The event management team made a series of decisions in the pur-• Low understanding of sustainability issues and product offering in the local meet- chasing of material and services. ings and events industry• Time: started the event planning process very late On Site Audit: Independent verification of actions on the part of the production company,venue, catering, and transportation suppliers followed by a documentation of results.
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTPERFORMANCETO SUSTAINABILITYOBJECTIVESAfter reviewing event issues, risks and op- GOAL STATUSportunities, the following objectives wereidentified. In the right hand column of this 1.Reduce, recycle and reuse waste and divert 50% of all waste 63% of all waste was diverted from the landfill.chart, performance to these objectives is from landfillnoted. 2.Create a healthy smart dining experience by sourcing 50% Not achieved. Catering company was switched at the organic and 50% local food last moment, and organic food was not available at an acceptable price point. The caterers were a local catering company based in Shanghai. 3.Support the local community by donating 50% of unused 100% of draping and carpets are in storage pending dona- food, draping and carpets tion. There was no left over food 4.Feature an ethical designer in the show Achieved. Camilla Wellton was the selected sustainable designer 5. 50% of total travel by organiser to be by train Not achieved: 33% of travel was by train 6.Find a sponsor to cover CO2 offsetting for event related cargo Achieved. We Impact paid for the offsetting of 150% of the carbon emissions produced by the event.
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTHOW 100 90 80SUSTAINABLE 70 60 50 40WAS THE EVENT? 30 20 10 0 ns n e geEnvironmental Sustainability n nu tin tio n io io al ra tio s Ve a at at at e su ve ic fic ta in od g fs Vi unThe MeetGreen® calculator was selected as the system to influence and g Be or of st tin Of m o m sp De & te di ke m ee m an si d Au co ar M Co o On Trevaluate the performance of selected planner and supplier actions. It analy- Ac M Fo & 100ses, measures and benchmarks over 160 facets of event policy, practices andoutcomes across ten categories:. 90· Audio Visual · Destination Selection 80· Accommodations · Meeting Venue· Transportation · Food & Beverage 70· Exhibition Production · Communications and Marketing 74,26%· Onsite Office · Offsets 60The MeetGreen® Calculator was developed by MeetGreen® and was reviewed 50 49,49%by a five member technical advisory committee (with backgrounds in the envi-ronmental and sustainability industries. Since its launch in 2004, MeetGreen® 40 37,00%has been updated to align with aspects of the British Standard (BS 8901) forSustainable Events and APEX/ASTM Green Meetings and Events Standards. 30 30,28 % 20MeetGreen® EvaluationUsing the MeetGreen system the event earned a total score of “30%” (of a 10possible maximum of 100%). This score is commendable for an event heldin a non-conference location in China. However it is below the average score 0of 44 for business meetings and events. The chart below displays MeetGreen CSR SMMT, SG - 2009 ICCC, HK - 2009 Shanghai FW - 2011 UNGC Summit - 2010performance for business events organised in Hong Kong and Singapore, anda UN Conference in New York. The chart highlights that while progress has During the onsite audit, MCI Sustainability Services evaluated performance in nine MeetGreen®been made by the event organisers there is much room for future improvement areas. The relative category scores can be observed in the top graph. The average event score for(please see recommendations). the Shanghai event is benchmarked against other sustainability focused events in the lower graph.
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTPERFORMANCE TOSUSTAINABILITY OBJECTIVES Car/Taxi/Limo; 3,31; 6%Carbon Emissions Footprint Train; 0,58; 1%The event produced a measurable total of 56.98 metric tons of carbon dioxide(CO2), or an average of 0.05 tons CO2 per participant. In practical terms, this isequal to the total annual emissions of three US residents or eight Chinese inhabit-ants (Source: European Commission 2011 Global Emissions report). Carbon Emis- Food; 9,60; 17%sions in China have increased by over 200% since 2000, and increased carbonresponsibility from the Events sector is crucial for sustainable development.As expected, the biggest CO2 emissions impact is from air transport with over 71%of total event-related emissions. It is worth noting that long distance train transport Venue; 3,10; 5%produces approximately 10% of the emissions of flying. For example the averageemissions of a flight from Barcelona to Madrid is 140kg CO2 while the emissionsfrom the high speed Ave train it is only 14kg CO2 (Source. RENFE). Hence eventorganisers should seriously advocate a switch to train transport on short haul fly-ing routes. Carbon Emissions Total - 56.98 tons CO2150% Carbon Offset88 Metric tons, or 150% of estimated carbon emissions related to the event, were Flights; 40,19; 71%offset through the purchase of carbon credits supplied by ClimateCare.ClimateCare is one of the longest established and leading environment-focused Water from the river is diverted steeply downhill via a 400m slope which surfaces at the powerorganisations in the carbon offset market. ClimateCare specialises in socially plant and is directed through two 7 MW water turbines. Production peaks during the rainyfocused projects with tangible development impacts; renewable energy, energy ef- season (April to July), and on average produces 60GWh a year, the equivalent to supplyingficiency, improved cookstoves and clean water provision. Every project developed around 14,000 average homes in the UK with clean, renewable electricity.is designed to contribute towards fulfilling the Millennium Development Goals Mr Like Lazu, a local resident employed by the local county, told us how Mani has improved(MDGs). his family’s quality of living;The carbon credits will be retired from ClimateCare’s annual portfolio of projects, “Our income has increased. We used to buy our clothes and salt with money from sellingwhich includes the Mani Hydroelectric Power project in Sichuan Province China. crops. All of our revenue came from selling bamboo shoots, potatoes and the corn my family planted. After I started working for Mani last year, I have had a monthly income of RMB 800,In the remote mountain village of Yonghong sits the Mani Hydro Power Station, on which is much higher than our regional average. We did not have a TV set before, but now wethe banks of the Yinhe River, Sichuan Province. have one. Also, we have better clothes.”
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTKEY SUCCESSESAND LEARNINGSRaising AwarenessSustainability is very new to the Chinese Fashion and Events Industries. A noteworthy success of this year’s sus-tainability program was in raising awareness among the event organisers, suppliers and participants. The conceptand challenges of environmental and social sustainability was discussed through a series of interviews with thevenue, production company, sponsors and catering company. The growing importance of event sustainability wasdiscussed and practical actions were identified to improve the event experience and results.To raise awareness among the 1200 Fashion show guests, Guy Bigwood, the Past-President of the Green MeetingsIndustry Council, together with Ann Wang, Co-Founder of We Impact and China’s 2012 spokesperson for Al Gore’sReality Project 24 Hours of Reality, presented the Event Sustainability program during the opening of the FashionShow.Importantly, the show organizers also conducted filmed interviews with various attendees to clearly understandtheir views and understanding about sustainability. This allowed attendees the opportunity to reflect on the waysin sustainability can enhance their guest experience and their lifestyles more generally. It also served the importantpurpose of showing that Chinese people are aware and engaged in the tackling climate change—something whichis crucial for gaining traction within the lifestyle industry in China.Strong governmental supportThe challenges and successes of producing the Shanghai Fashion Week closing fashion show and after party ac-cording to international standards of sustainable events is described by the Event Director and Co-Founder of WeImpact, Joseph Oliver:‘Coming from five years of experience in organizing green events across the world, I found the challenges we allfaced in China to be unique to the territory complex and ingrained. However, the receptivity to new ideas and deter-mination to learn was a crucial ally in making aspects of sustainability for the event succeed. We found in particularthe governing bodies to be enthusiastic and supportive of integrating core environmental mitigation into the pro-ject. The two major challenges that I’d plan for next time would be extensive training of these issues and solutionswith the contractors and clients and in-depth work with the supply chain for all procurement and hires.’
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTReduce, Reuse, Recycle, Report Location, Location, Location Consider the teamIn the event design phase, the organisers paid particular The selection of the event destination and location is one The fashion industry has a fantasticattention to rethinking how to reduce the amount of waste go- of the most important decisions in terms of sustainability. opportunity to leverage its influence toing to the landfill. Wooden construction was eliminated, and Carefully selecting a venue close to public transport links or advance sustainability for more responsible90 square meters of carpet and 160 square meters of curtain within walking distance to event facilities can significantly lifestyles. This responsibility should be in-draping were collected for donation. reduce carbon emissions. corporated steadily not only into the design and manufacturing of the clothes, but alsoThe organisers were able to reuse the event staging, 30 sofa Participant Travel into fashion Shows. One particular risk areaseating blocks and eight bar counters from a previous event is caused through the use of vast quanti- By Transport Typesaving a huge amount of materials and money through the ties of hairspray to prepare the models forreuse of perfectly good event production items that otherwise the catwalk. Aside from the environmentalwould’ve been thrown away. Bus 5% waste cause by the pressurised cans, the contents bring health risk for the modelsCatering waste was reduced by using hand passed ‘finger Train 4% and makeup artists. While the chronicfoods’, rather than full buffet service. China plates and health implications of hairspray ingredi- Flights 7%glasses were used as opposed to disposable products. ents are somewhat controversial, many of Car/Taxi/Limo 84% the individual components have cancer- causing properties. In addition, inhalation Event Waste of denatured alcohol, hydrofluorocarbons Total - 280kg This event was organised in the newly opened Shanghai In- and other hairspray ingredients can lead to ternational Fashion Centre. Prior to renovations; it was an old factory for cotton and textiles that had not been in operationPaper Recycled; 30; 11% for over one hundred years. While not yet a showcase of greenLandfill; 105; 37% features, the centre management demonstrated commitment to improving environmental standards. Aside from the energyMetal and Plastic Recycled; 10; 4% and waste management processes already discussed, theGlass Recycled; 135; 48% venue collects and reuses “grey water” from rainfall to flush the toilets. The retrofit and continued use of old building in China is a laudable endeavour, especially when most develop- ment initiatives are created by levelling the existing site andThe venue did not have a formal waste management sys- symptoms like low blood pressure, breath- building a totally new proposition on the site, causing a hugetem. Instead, the cleaning team recycled waste by sorting, ing difficulty, and irritation of the skin, eyes need for new materials and creating substantial waste.packaging and measuring the different waste streams. Over or lungs. Designers and Fashion stylists940kg of waste was diverted from the landfill for a com- would be well advised to investigate themendable recycling/diversion rate of 63%. sustainability of hair products using a site such as www.goodguide.com, which evalu-Electricity usage and cost was minimized through com- ates environmental, societal and healthmunication with the venue to switch off unused lights and risks for thousands of products.ensuring the use of low voltage light bulbs. However, theelectricity management system did not allow for full controlof individual lighting zones. In total 3.1 kwh of energy wereconsumed at the venue from set up to break down.
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTEngaging SponsorsSelection and collaboration with sponsors can significantly increase awarenessand engagement about sustainability. Lexus was one of the key sponsors forShanghai Fashion Show and they launched their new CT Coupe in mainland Chi-na, one of the world’s largest automobile markets. As the world’s first full hybridluxury compact car, sustainability was presented as a smart and stylish lifestylechoice – full of concepts of design, innovation and quality. This educates peopleaway from the old concept of green as ‘hippy’, ‘crunchy’ or flowery. The benefit toLexus was not only association of sustainability and fashion but also in a groundbraking event for China.Train and CommunicateAll suppliers and partners showed an eagerness to implement more sustainableprocesses. If the organising agency would have had more time to organise theevent, greater results could have been delivered. The Catering agency explainedthat more time would have allowed greater collaboration with local producersand would have resulted in the delivery of local, fresher and more healthiermenu items. There is a lack of Chinese language training tools on sustainableevents and by producing some of these tools there could be on-going training forthe persons involved and template examples for the industry in China.The concept of the evening was E-Fashion: Ethical, Eco, and Exceptional. Swed-ish designer Camilla Wellton showcased her line of eco couture made from Oe-kotex certified Hemp-silk mixtures , Bamboo, organic cotton, and Modal (Fabricmade out of Beech trees).To create a beautiful garment in harmony with the land is a distinct type of happi-ness for us and we believe, also for the wearer.- Camilla Wellton
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTRecommendations forImproved Performance The following recommendations are provided to help other Fashion shows organise more eco, ethical and exceptional events.1. Standards: Consider using the ISO20121 Sustainable Event Management System in the 7. Wellness: Source a sponsor of organic cosmetics and hair products for make up planning of the event, in conjunction with the APEX/ASTM Environmentally Sustain- and style products used by models. Ensure sufficient ventilation and good recy- able Meeting standards. The Global Reporting Initiative Event Organisers Supplement cling/disposal of chemical products and packaging. used for this report provides useful guidance for the transparent reporting of sustain- ability impacts and initiatives. Use of standards will reduce time investment, provide 8. FLOSS: Work with catering teams to create a menu that is Fresh – Local – Organic processes for goal setting and give practical suggestions for action. – Seasonal and/or Sustainable. It is currently unrealistic to expect 100% local organic food. Balance menus with local conditions and prices. For example it is2. Start early: Discussing sustainability from the first conversations with the event man- better to have a local fruit from with 100miles than fly in Mangos from an exotic agement team, suppliers and partners will improve desired outcomes. location.3. Teamwork: Create a ‘virtual sustainability team’ consisting of representatives from 9. Showcase: Invite a sustainable fashion designer or community project/charity key suppliers to the organisation of future events. Meet regularly, set and track goals, representative to participate in the show. Showcase their designs as an effective share successes and failures, document results and learnings for future planning ef- way to raise awareness and inspire more sustainable lifestyles. Introduce methods forts. Ask them to collaborate and identify innovative ways to partner, and showcase to communicate the aspects of the designs, which make them sustainable. Help their green and sustainable products. audiences understand the value of any innovations in products selected. Consider creating a web based video channel where interested parties can ‘dig deeper’ into4. Policy: Create a sustainability policy and include sustainability expectations when the topic with interviews with designers, models and stylists who are influencing sourcing and contracting with suppliers such as the agencies, venues, production sustainability in fashion. Accentuate the positive by highlighting the improve- and catering companies. In the Request for Proposal, outline an expectation to select ments to products, which do not represent added costs to business or consumer. eco-certified organizations and show preference for those suppliers who have earned certification. Don’t forget to share your policy with your sponsors. 10. Ethical: In addition to featuring fair trade products, conduct a review of wages paid to event staff to ensure that they are competitive with the regional market. Work to5. Contract: Include a requirement for environmental action in supplier requests and con- ensure that the contracting policy and partner selection process is transparent and tracts. If you are going to measure include a clause requesting that suppliers provide fair to all participating event suppliers. Adopt a Code of Responsible and Profes- measurement data. This information, which is important for event sustainability report- sional Business Ethics, which outlines a zero tolerance for graft, harassment or ing, is difficult to get from suppliers after an event. Don’t pay suppliers until the data is illegal behaviour. received.6. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle: Consider waste in the design of the fashion show. Eliminate trash, innovate and create new ways to wow your audience. Make sure the venue has an efficient waste management program. During initial event planning discussions, identify a charitable organization to accept donations.
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTPERFORMANCE INDICATORSGRI PerformanceIndicatorsPerformance Indicator Description Page number or reference Number of participants 1200EN7 Initiatives to reduce indirect energy consumption and reductions achieved. Worked with venue to switch off lights and use half lighting during set up. Low voltage lighting used in venue. Reductions not measuredEN8 Total water withdrawal by source, conservation and improvement initiatives and results. 36m3EN16 Total direct and indirect greenhouse gas emissions by weight in tons of CO2 Page 8 Train 0,58 Car/Taxi/Limo 3,31 Flights 40,19 Bus 0,19 Venue 3,10 Food 9,60 Total 56,98 Carbon Emissions per Participant- tons CO2 0,05EN18 Initiatives to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and reductions achieved. Encouraged participants to switch to high speed train from Shangahi. 33% of staff used train. Reduced waste and energy con- sumption (EN7 and EN22)EN22 Total weight of waste by type and disposal method, and including initiatives to manage waste and their results in kg Worked with venue staff to set up recycling system. Diverted 90m2 of carpet and 160m2 of curtain away from landfill. Page 10 Paper Recycled 30 Glass Recycled 135 Metal and Plastic Recycled 10 Landfill 105 Total Kg 280 Waste per participant - Kg 0,23EN26 Initiatives to mitigate environmental impacts of events, products and services, and extent of impact mitigation.. Page 8, 9 – 11. 150% of event emissions were offsetEN28 Monetary value of significant fines and total number of non-monetary sanctions for non-compliance with environ- No fines incurred mental laws and regulations.EO2 Modes of transport taken by attendees and participants as a percentage of total transportation, and initiatives to 33% of staff used train for travel between Shanghai and Beijing encourage the use of sustainable transport options. Train 4% Car/Taxi/Limo 84% Flights 7% Bus 5%LA7 Rates of injury, occupational diseases, lost days, and absenteeism, and number of work-related fatalities, by region No major injuries or incidents recorded and by gender.EO7 Number and type and of injuries, fatalities and notifiable incidents for attendees, participants and other relevant No major injuries or incidents recorded stakeholdersEO9 Type and sustainability performance of sourcing initiatives. Sustainability policy created and discussed with venue, AV company, catering companies, organisers and sponsors. Results displayed in MeetGreen chart Page 6EO11 Number, type and impact of sustainability initiatives designed to raise awareness and impact behavior change. Sustainability presented to all participants via email, opening keynote presentation and fashion show. Page 9EO12 Nature and extent of knowledge transfer of best practice and lessons learned. See page Page 13
2011 SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK CLOSING EVENT SUSTAINABILITY REPORTAuthors PartnersThis report was prepared by Guy Bigwood and Michael Luehrs of MCI Sus- The sustainability efforts presented in this report would not have been possible with-tainability Services and Simon Kubski and Michelle Yang of We Impact. out the valuable contribution and support of the event host P1.CN. As China’s leading private social network, P1.CN combines unique online and offline social networkingMCI is proud to be seen as industry thought leaders in sustainable event opportunities that allow its members to socialize through sharing exceptional life-management and consulting. MCI is actively engaged in efforts to change styles experiences. P1.CN is dedicated to promoting the idea of social responsibilitythe way the world meets through the promotion of smart, sustainable within its network and it is through their support of the concept of E-Fashion that itbusiness solutions. MCI is the Sustainability Guide for some of the world’s was possible to create this event and write this report.leading events on sustainable development and the renewable energysectors, including: The United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP15), ContactThe World Business Summit on Climate Change, the International Climate In the interest of constant improvement, all ideas and comments about this report areChange Conference, the GRI Global Conference on Sustainability and Trans- welcome. Please address comments to Guy Bigwood, MCI Group Sustainability Direc-parency, and the United Nations Global Compact Leaders Summit. tor - Guy.firstname.lastname@example.orgWe Impact is a sustainability social enterprise dedicated to making sustain- Photo Creditsable lifestyles a reality by creating cultural and business engagement op- Photos were provided by Erin O’Hara (Methodcn) and P1portunities. We Impact planned and coordinated the entire event and wereresponsible for collecting the data used in this report. Graphical Design MCI Creative Services BarcelonaWith offices and projects in China and the UK, We Impact is pioneering the development of global sustainable lifestyles. We Impact works with clientsfrom around the world to create business opportunities by engaging in sus-tainable business practices that make sustainable consumer and culturalexperiences accessible and relevant to young people. For more informationon We Impact, please visit www.we-impact.com.