WALLED VILLAGE                                                      Fanling     FANLING     The great clans (the Hau, Tang...
Fanling                                           54 Fung Ying Seen Koon                                                  ...
Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail                                                                                              ...
5. The Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall                                                                                     ...
FANLING                                                                                                                   ...
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Walled village fanling


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Walled village fanling

  1. 1. WALLED VILLAGE Fanling FANLING The great clans (the Hau, Tang, Pang, Liu and Man) all settled in different sections of the fertile flat lands of the Sheung Yue River. The fertile soil allowed the ancient villagers of the area to prosper and to build fine large ancestral halls and temples, and to defend themselves with stout walls. The villages had good schools and produced a number of scholars. Fanling developed as a market town and the railway helped boost prosperity. During the 1920s and 1930s small religious houses were constructed and a suburban ‘garden city’ emerged. The fields are pretty much gone, and the New Town is now filled with residential and commercial blocks and has a population in excess of 350,000. Culture and heritage buffs will be delighted with the cornucopia of treasures to see, including a stunning Taoist temple and a number of walled villages. It’s also fun to walk around in the nearby shopping mall and check out the local eateries and shops for a real slice of modern-day Hong Kong life.50 51
  2. 2. Fanling 54 Fung Ying Seen Koon Lo Wu Lok Ma Chau Sheung Shui Long Yuen Fanling Ping Long Tin Shui Wai Lung Yeuk Tau Kam Sheung Road Tai Wo Tai Po Market Heritage Trail Wu Kai Sha University Ma On Shan Siu Hong Heng On Racecourse Tuen Mun Tai Shui Hang Fo Tan Sha Tin Shek Mun 55 Shung Him Tong City One Tai Wai Sha Tin Wai Tsuen Wan West Che Kung Temple East Rail Line West Rail Line Mei Foo Ma Wat Wai 55 Kowloon Tong Ma On Shan Line Mong Kok East Nam Cheong Light Rail Austin Hung Hom Interchange 56 Lo Wai East Tsim Sha Tsui The Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall 57 A Prestigious Marriage 58 Tin Hau Temple During the 12th century, a Tang clan man rescued a young girl fleeing the invading Mongols. When she grew up, he arranged for her to marry his son. When peace and security was restored, she informed her husband that she was in fact related to royalty and was the daughter of the Emperor. Luckily, the Emperor was inclined to look favourably on the marriage and let it stand, giving her husband a suitable title and large estate to provide for his daughter. Most of the Tangs resident in the New Territories today are descended from their five sons.52 53
  3. 3. Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail Lung Yeuk Tau The Sung dynasty Princess and her Tang clan husband settled in Lung Yeuk Tau in the 13th century. Today his descendants occupy 11 villages in the area, five of which are walled. 2. Shung Him Tong Hakka Lutherans founded this village in 1901 after escaping persecution. Of note is the fine Tsung Kyam Church (Tsung Kyam is the Hakka pronunciation of Shung Him), the only church with services in Hakka. Just past the church is Shek Lo mansion belonging to the Tsui clan. The son of the family was just a university student when he joined the British Army to fight the Japanese invasion. After the war, he was permitted to join the Hong Kong Civil Service – the first Chinese person allowed to do so. Note: This is private property and not open to the public. Directions: Go back to MTR Fanling Station and follow the sign to ‘Luen Wo Hui’. Turn left and go downstairs to the Green Minibus station and take Green Minibus 54K to Lung Yeuk Tau. Ask the driver to let you off at Shung Him Tong. Fanling 1. Fung Ying Seen Koon This is the largest Taoist institute in Hong Kong, built in 1929 by devotees 3. Ma Wat Wai fleeing the Anti-Superstition Campaign in Canton (Guangzhou). Recently For a unique experience there is nothing quite like a rebuilt, the Main Hall contains shrines to various Taoist deities. There is Chinese walled village. At Ma Wat Wai, check out the also a finely inscribed wall behind the Main Hall with the 72 Immortals gatehouse with its gun platform over the gate, dating back on one side and the entire text of the Tao Te Ching (the Taoist scripture) to about 1740. It’s made of thick plated wrought iron in on the other. The restaurant inside the temple is famous for serving two leaves. When closed and locked, the design allows vegetarian meals. air to circulate but provides a good deal of strength at the same time. Access to the village is through a single Directions: Leave MTR Fanling Station and follow the signpost ‘Fung Ying Seen Koon’. Cross the pedestrian flyover running across the narrow gate on the northwest side. The entrance gate of main road. This runs into an underpass. At the end of the Ma Wat Wai became a Declared Monument in 1994. underpass, turn left and the entrance to the Fung Ying Seen Koon is immediately in front. The main buildings are up the steps. A brief, free guide to the complex is available at the Directions: Walk along the route to Ma Wat Wai, which is next to Ma office (to the right at the top of the entrance steps). Wat Wai children’s playground.54 Fanling 55
  4. 4. 5. The Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall This Declared Monument is a superb building, originally built in 1570 and rebuilt around 1700. It includes an Ancestral Hall that is a perfect example of the ‘Gentry Ancestral Hall’ or a hall for the descendants of some high officials (in this case the descendents of the Sung Princess and her husband). The building is decorated with magnificent artworks and the construction style is elegant. There is also an Imperial Tablet dedicated to the Sung Princess and her husband, the only such tablet in Hong Kong. Opening hours: 9am – 1pm and 2pm – 5pm Monday and Wednesday to Saturday. Closed on Tuesday and some public holidays. Directions: Walk along the route to Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall.4. Lo WaiThis old walled village is a must-visit in Lung Yeuk Tau, featuring thick walls accessible only through the single narrowgateway on the east side. The walls and the gatehouse have been restored recently and are Declared Monuments.The gatehouse contains a shrine to the Earthgod and has a gun platform above, but the village’s small canon is nolonger. Several old houses within the walled village are still occupied. Opening hours: 9am – 5pm daily (Entrance Tower of Lo Wai) Directions: Walk along the route to Lo Wai. Remarks: To avoid disturbing local residents, the interior of Lo Wai is not open to the public.56 Fanling 57
  5. 5. FANLING Siu Hang Tsuen Barracks San Wai Barracks 1 MTR station Ng Tung River San Wai (Kun Lung Wai) MTR East Rail Line Gallipoli Liines Minibus terminus The Sisters of the Precious Blood U Route Nga Lok Yeung Wu Children Village TA UK Suen Douh YE Lung Yeuk Tau Camp NG 2 LU Heritage Trail AD RO K Map not drawn to scale KO Sin Shut U Study Hall TA A SH 3 AD . MA SIK RO RD AN SH T. G IS LIN TA FAN L Wing Ning Tsuen O . ST W LU r ve UN EN Ri EN M LU O at G LAU O Ling Hill EN N W LU ST W l rai LU EN EN O N . Ma eT I ROA HI SH ST ag . ST . r it N . RD G IN UN ST G e O S D M . T. Luen T. 4 W euk Tau H IS K LU Police 3 EN LO KU EN Wo . Driving ST LU N N School FA Hui N O O JO T UE ST 5 CK CH . EY Ma Wat Wai U N 6 TA gY O CL LO LO Lun UK K T UN UB K 4 YE M G ST. Tang RO G IN N G Chung AD LU ST . 2 Tin AD Ling 5 . ST D Lo Wai Hau Ancestral RO OA K Shung Him Tong K FU Temple Hall R KO NG N O U LO TA FU K A YI YI K SH P PI CH P6. Tin Hau Temple ST YI JOC EO . P FU KEY N N G GThe local Tin Hau Temple, immediately next to the Tang Clan Ancestral Hall, is an excellent piece of workmanship, CL UB RO ST . ST . ADentirely traditional in form and decoration. It was last restored in 1981. Tin Hau, protector of fishermen and one ofHong Kong’s most popular deities, is in the Main Hall while Kam Fa, goddess of childbirth, is in the side hall. Note Tong Hang 6 . RD . ST Nthe magnificent wall orchid that has been growing for the past 70 years. IO FA O Fanling PW AT N Town LI ST YI N Centre G G LIN Directions: Tin Hau Temple is next to the Ancestral Hall. ROA D N FA FA WAN N SAN PA Tip: Take Green Minibus 54K back to MTR Fanling LIN KW Station and take MTR back to town. 1 G HI O GH RD W AY . Fung Ying 7 Seen Koon A B C D E58 Fanling 59