Women of Celazome Premiere Orlando Presentation

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Delivery systems presentation from Carolyn Veroni of Celazome Clinical Skin Care at the 2010 Premiere Orlando Beauty Tradeshow

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Women of Celazome Premiere Orlando Presentation

  1. 1. DELIVERY SYSTEMS FOR SKIN CARE PRODUCTS<br />Presented by: Carolyn Veroni <br />Director of Business Development Dermazone Solutions <br />June 5, 2010<br />
  2. 2. Outline of Lecture<br /><ul><li>What is a Delivery System
  3. 3. Skin Fundamentals
  4. 4. Physiology and Penetration Pathways
  5. 5. Why Encapsulate
  6. 6. Types of Delivery Systems
  7. 7. Overview
  8. 8. Next Generation</li></li></ul><li>Definition of a Delivery System<br /><ul><li>It’s a way of holding, carrying, and transporting an active to a substrate
  9. 9. It can control the rate of release from a formulation as well as absorption
  10. 10. May provide sustained release, controlled release, or release on demand into the substrate
  11. 11. Any type of vehicle that make an “active” available to a target site</li></li></ul><li>Delivery System<br /><ul><li>Ingredients today
  12. 12. More advanced
  13. 13. Much more effective
  14. 14. How do we take advantage of the technology?
  15. 15. Formulators challenge
  16. 16. Ability to include more ingredients into one formula
  17. 17. Ingredients work smarter</li></li></ul><li>Human Skin <br /><ul><li>Stratum Corneum</li></ul> (10-15µm)<br /><ul><li>Living Epidermis</li></ul> (~ 100µm)<br /><ul><li>Dermis</li></ul> (2,000-3,000µm)<br />
  18. 18. Brick and Mortar<br />Bricks = Corneocytes<br />Mortar= Lipids<br />
  19. 19. 4 Layers of the Epidermis<br />
  20. 20. Stratum Spinosum<br />
  21. 21. Stratum Granulosum <br />
  22. 22. Stratum Corneum<br />
  23. 23. Structure of the SC<br />
  24. 24. Stratum Corneum Anatomy<br />
  25. 25. Lamellar Bodies<br />Releases free fatty acids and Ceramides<br />
  26. 26. Corneocyte Shell<br />
  27. 27. Ceramide Lipids<br />
  28. 28. Corneodesmosomes<br />
  29. 29. NMF<br />
  30. 30. Desquamation<br />
  31. 31. How do we get there?<br />SKIN PENETRATION PATHWAYS<br />
  32. 32. Skin Penetration Pathways <br /><ul><li>Intercellular pathway
  33. 33. The volume of the area is about 5%-30% of the stratum corneum
  34. 34. Water has been found to penetrate the skin via the intercellular pathway
  35. 35. Transcellular pathway
  36. 36. Occurs through the keratinized corneocytes
  37. 37. Also known as the polar pathway</li></li></ul><li>Skin Penetration Pathways<br /><ul><li>The Pilosebaceic pathway
  38. 38. Occurs via penetration through the hair follicles
  39. 39. Mainly a route for very lipophilic molecules
  40. 40. A major route for both charged and large polar molecules
  41. 41. Available area for diffusion is approx. 0.1% of the total skin area.</li></li></ul><li>What gets us there?<br />SKIN PENETRATION ENHANCERS<br />
  42. 42. Skin Penetration Enhancers<br /><ul><li>Physical
  43. 43. Iontophoresis; electric current 15mA
  44. 44. Sonophoresis; low-frequency ultrasound, 20kHz
  45. 45. Dermal Patches
  46. 46. Micro Needles
  47. 47. Enzymatic
  48. 48. These inhibit key enzymes of the lipid synthesis
  49. 49. Alters the critical moral ratio of the stratum corneum lipids.
  50. 50. Vesicular carriers
  51. 51. Microscopic vesicle spheres or Nanospheres
  52. 52. Hydrophilic and Lipophilic actives can be incorporated within the carrier</li></li></ul><li>Lets make it work smarter<br />ENCAPSULATE<br />
  53. 53. Why Encapsulate<br /><ul><li>Improve stability
  54. 54. Protection from light/air, prolongation of shelf life
  55. 55. Fluctuating temperature sensitivities
  56. 56. Modulating skin penetration properties
  57. 57. Controlled release
  58. 58. The rate of release
  59. 59. Sustained release
  60. 60. The time of release</li></li></ul><li>Why Encapsulate<br /><ul><li>Protection from component interactions
  61. 61. Prevent contact of incompatible ingredients in the formulation
  62. 62. Change of form
  63. 63. i.e. incorporation of oil into a powder to allow the creation of powdered formulation
  64. 64. Multi-benefit products
  65. 65. Product releases a peptide followed by a skin a skin brightener</li></li></ul><li>Why Encapsulate <br /><ul><li>Improve skin tolerance
  66. 66. Eliminating skin irritation
  67. 67. Improve efficacy
  68. 68. Improve safety
  69. 69. Improved esthetics
  70. 70. Consumer appeal
  71. 71. Color changes
  72. 72. Eliminate undesired odor</li></li></ul><li>Getting in the Zone<br />DELIVERY SYSTEMS<br />
  73. 73. Types of Delivery Systems<br /><ul><li>Micro Capsules
  74. 74. Liposomes
  75. 75. Particles
  76. 76. Emulsions
  77. 77. Lyphazomes®
  78. 78. Physical enhancements
  79. 79. Future models</li></li></ul><li>Micro capsules <br /><ul><li>Proprietary type of polymer
  80. 80. Delivers a specific Ingredient
  81. 81. Releases when applying
  82. 82. Not a controlled release
  83. 83. Releases one ingredient onto the target area
  84. 84. Carrier oils
  85. 85. Retinol palmitate
  86. 86. Vitamin E
  87. 87. Linoleic acid/Linolenic acid</li></li></ul><li>Liposomes<br /><ul><li>Lamellar Vesicles
  88. 88. Size-In the low Micro- </li></ul> Meter range<br />Made up of aqueous compartments and a lipid bilayer<br />
  89. 89. Liposomes<br /><ul><li>May be either phospholipids, or sterols
  90. 90. Natural or artificial
  91. 91. Not all are biodegradable
  92. 92. Sizes can vary from 25- 5000 nm
  93. 93. Many are loaded by manufacturer
  94. 94. Fragile structure
  95. 95. Prone to oxidation</li></li></ul><li>Think small… very small<br />NANO SIZE<br />
  96. 96. Size Matters <br /><ul><li>What is Nano?
  97. 97. One nanometer is billionth of a meter …Huh?
  98. 98. A sheet of paper is 100,000 nanometers thick
  99. 99. If you’re a blond, your hair is approx. 15,000 to 50,000 nanometers in diameter
  100. 100. If you have black hair, its diameter is likely to be 50,000 to 180,000 nanometers
  101. 101. There are 25,400,000 nanometers per inch </li></li></ul><li>Nano<br /><ul><li>The Roman makers of the Lycurgus Cup knew that if they added tiny particles of gold and silver when making glass it would turn a different color when light shone through it.</li></li></ul><li>Changing particle size<br />PARTICLES<br />
  102. 102. Particles<br /><ul><li>Micronized Titanium dioxide
  103. 103. Inorganic UVA UVB Blocker
  104. 104. Mineral makeup and some sunscreens
  105. 105. Micronized Zinc oxide
  106. 106. Inorganic UVA UVB Blocker < than 200nm
  107. 107. Mostly used in Physical Sunscreens
  108. 108. Polytrap® Technology
  109. 109. Porous networks- ideal for lipophilic actives
  110. 110. Will promptly release the entrapped ingredient</li></li></ul><li>Most common form of delivery<br />EMULSION<br />
  111. 111. Emulsion<br />Monomer droplet<br />Addition of ingredients <br />Emulsion before<br />polymerization<br />Polymerization to form<br />latex particles<br />
  112. 112. Emulsions<br /><ul><li>Can encapsulate many ingredients
  113. 113. Emulsion often releases when rubbed onto the skin
  114. 114. Encapsulation breaks down with pH change, temperature change, salts and surfactants
  115. 115. Emulsion does not always mean a controlled release</li></li></ul><li>Lyphazomes®<br /><ul><li>Natural and 100% biodegradable
  116. 116. Made up of phospholipids used by the body
  117. 117. Stable in regards to pH, temperature, salts and surfactants
  118. 118. Exhibits a controlled release while in the skin
  119. 119. Same sized nanospheres 300nm
  120. 120. Slight anionic charge to permeate the skin
  121. 121. Can also carry a cationic charge
  122. 122. Penetrates to the ceramides with the stratum corneum and localize</li></li></ul><li>Lyphazomes®<br /><ul><li>Lyphazomes are formed in situ
  123. 123. Within itself
  124. 124. Sized to “stick” within the granulosum
  125. 125. Lyphazomes enhance the stability of the ingredient until released
  126. 126. Releases all Loaded ingredients over time
  127. 127. >8 hours
  128. 128. Irritation is minimal </li></li></ul><li>Lipophilic Ingredients:<br /><ul><li>Vitamin E
  129. 129. Vitamin A
  130. 130. Retinol
  131. 131. Alpha Bisabolol</li></ul>Hydrophilic Ingredients:<br /><ul><li>Vitamin C
  132. 132. Green Tea
  133. 133. Peptides
  134. 134. Glycolic Acid
  135. 135. Hydroquinone</li></li></ul><li>Lyphazome Natural NanotechnologyIllustration of how nanospheres work with the skin<br /><ul><li>CELAZOME PRODUCT APPLIED TO SKIN
  136. 136. NANOSPHERE PENETRATION:
  137. 137. 80% nanosphere CONCENTRATION penetrating within the stratum
  138. 138. MIGRATION of NANOSPHERES through the stratum corneum
  139. 139. RESERVOIR of NANOSPHERES between the stratum corneum and stratum granulosum
  140. 140. TIME-RELEASE OF INGREDIENTS:
  141. 141. Bioactive/Active ingredients releasing over time within the stratum corneum and deeper epidermal layer
  142. 142. RELEASED ingredients slowly penetrating into the epidermal layers</li></li></ul><li>Tools to enhance<br />EQUIPMENT<br />
  143. 143. Physical Enhancements<br /><ul><li>Micro needles
  144. 144. 192 needles which delicately puncture the epidermis of the skin. This damage begins the release of growth factors which stimulate collagen and elastin production
  145. 145. Sonophoresis
  146. 146. Use of ultrasound to enhance topical delivery
  147. 147. Very low frequency increases the permeability of the stratum corneum
  148. 148. Iontophoresis
  149. 149. Device consisting of an anode and a cathode
  150. 150. Enhancing the penetration rate</li></li></ul><li>Physical Enhancements<br /><ul><li>Trans dermal patches
  151. 151. It requires the user to wear them for 6 to 8 hours at a time.... and sometimes even overnight for the ingredients to travel back to the selected target.....like under the eyes.
  152. 152. Intra dermal patches
  153. 153. delivers the ingredients immediately and directly into the deep layers of the skin so you only have to wear them for 45 minutes to get better and more effective results.</li></li></ul><li>Brief<br />OVERVIEW<br />
  154. 154. Brief Overview<br /><ul><li>The absorption of actives into the stratum corneum is a complex process
  155. 155. Today's market is more demanding for quality, immediate performance
  156. 156. Delivery systems today means to be much more precise in terms of targeted effects</li></li></ul><li>Overview<br /><ul><li>Provides cost-enhanced, cost-effectiveness potential
  157. 157. A good delivery system is a valuable tool when it comes to maintaining quality
  158. 158. Using a similar concentration of ingredients will give you an added benefit vs. conventional products
  159. 159. Added benefits= faster results to the client </li></li></ul><li>Future Methods <br /><ul><li>NLP
  160. 160. Nano Lipidic Particles
  161. 161. Dial- a- size technology
  162. 162. Fast release; sustained release all in one formula
  163. 163. In nutraceutical applications- vitamins & minerals
  164. 164. Drug applications
  165. 165. Nano medicine
  166. 166. Targeting Cancer cells</li></li></ul><li>THANK YOU<br />FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE DERMACM.COM – CAROLYN@DERMAZONE.COMST. PETERSBURG, FL<br />

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