Supplies needed • Universal rear disk• Complete Disk Brake Kit brake mounting purchased at e-Bay. • http://www.ebay.com/itm/350494596169?ssPageName =STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 • This seller advertises two different models. I purchased the adapter that is for bike frames that do NOT have the pre-existing mounting holes. The bracket is a tad larger than the other option.
Following is a list of items I purchased at the local Home Depot store. 1- shelf bracket, portion of this bracket will be used for the forward pressure support arm. 3 - 5.8mm hex bolts 20 mm long with appropriate nuts 3 - 6.1mm hex bolts 20 mm long with appropriate nuts 2 - 2 mm washer
Tools needed• Small C-Clamp• Vise Grip pliers• 4mm & 5mm Allen wrenches• 8mm & 10mm open end wrenches• 11/64 & 15/64 drill bits• Drill
Hole alphabetical position. E” will be drilled in slide No 14. B A D E C
The Universal kit does not have a templateof where to drill the holes on the bicycleframe.You have to find the sweet spot where thecaliper fits perfect, and that’s when youdrill the frame.After-all, you don’t want start drilling holeswithout being sure of where the bracketwill go and end up with a frame full ofholes.
Assemble your caliper to the universalmounting bracket, make sure all bolts are tight (do not torque).
Make sure you install your wheel onthe bike.Place the caliper over the brake diskand try to find the exact spot wherethe wheel will rotate with the leastamount of resistance.
Place the C-clamp to hold the caliper in placewhere the (C) hole is at, continue to rotate thewheel to ensure that the position has not beencompromised (if adjustments are needed makesure to loosen the C-clamp enough to adjust thebracket and retighten).
Place a vise grip pliers at the rear of the bracket(D hole) to make sure you have no movement asthe next step will be to drill the frame.
Once again make sure you rotate the wheel toconfirm it turns freely, at this point if there isminimal resistance, without removing the visegrips or loosening the C-clamp, loosen theadjustment bolts that hold the caliper to theuniversal mounting,
press on the brake lever and maintainpressure, at the same time tighten theadjustment bolts and then release the brakelever. Your brake caliper should be perfectlyaligned. Turn the wheel to confirm thealignment.
Extreme Caution should be taken on the next steps as youwill now be drilling your hard to replace frame Triangle.
With the 11/64 drill bit, drill your first hole (E),you will be drilling the bracket followed by theframe, keep a steady hand…
(The reason for this hole is that theposition of the outer hole (D) is right at theedge of the frame and with the amount of pressure your braking system will receive you will run the chance of braking the frame, bolt “E” will compensate and absorb some of that pressure). Insert a 5.8mm bolt and tighten it using the appropriate nut. After tightening the bolt rotate the wheel again to check for resistance.
Remove your vise grip; you are nowready to drill your second hole (D). The bracket comes with a 6.1mm hole, in my set up if I was to drill a 6.1mm hole there would be too much material removed from the frame and I felt it would compromise the integrity of the frame.
I chose to drill a 11/64 hole, it was drilled so the bolt rest on the bottom of the existing bracket hole. Inset another 5.8mm bolt and tighten.
You can now remove the C-clamp; the last hole (C) on the bracket will be exposed, continue by drilling through thishole (C) with a 15/64 drill bit, insert a 6.1mm bolt and tighten.
Your new braking system should now be working, checkyour wheel to make sure thereis no resistance, if there is littleresistance all you need to do is adjust your caliper using thesame process described above on slides No 11 & 12.
The last part of this process will cover the installation of your forward pressure support arm, you will have lots of pressure on the front of the universal bracket and I felt a supportwas needed. I’m no engineer but I feel that not having this support arm will run the chance of braking or havingsomething give due to the amount of pressure the brakes will generate.
From the shelving bracket hinge use the section with the bend at the end. I cut 3.5inches from that end, for cosmetic reasons I rounded the end of the section that I cut.
Drill a 15/64 hole at the end of yourforward pressure support arm that you just cut (painting it black is optional although paint gives it a finished look).
Remove the front bracket bolt (A)and place your front support arm with the curb going downward. facing inward.
Drill a 11/64 hole on your frame usingthe hole on your front support arm (F) and insert a 5.8mm bolt and tighten.
Final brake adjustment asdescribed on slides No 11 & 12.
You may now torque all your bolts and apply asmall amount of lock-tight to eliminate anypossibility of the nuts coming undone in themiddle of the trail.