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Sweetheart Round Cabochon Pendant
Judy Larson
Materials:
36” of 21 gauge square wire
18” of 21 gauge half round wire
25mm cabochon
Three 3mm beads
Tools:
Chain, flat and round nose pliers
3-Step pliers
Flush cutters
5/16” and 1” mandrels
Painters tape
Ultra fine point Sharpie Marker
Directions:
Step 1: Measure the circumference of your cabochon: Wrap the outer edge of
your cabochon with a narrow strip of painters tape. Cut the tape off where it
overlaps.
Step 2: Remove the
tape and place it on a
piece of paper.
Measure the tape as
shown. The photo to
the right is the actual size diagram with length and
markings at the top edge of the blue tape.
Step 3: Straighten and cut four 21 gauge square wires 9” long each.
Step : Lay the wires side by side, ends even. Use painters tape to secure the wire ends together. This makes
the wire bundle easier to work with.
Step 4: Mark the center of the wire bundle with a Sharpie marker. Center this mark on the center mark made
with the tape in Step 2. Using the sharpie marker, transfer all markings to the wire bundle.

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Step 5: Using your half round wire, make seven wraps to show on the center marked line. Starting on the
next lines out from center and working outward, make four wraps to show with half round wire. Place the
wrapped bundle next to your diagram and check to make sure that the wraps are lined up with the marks. If
the wraps need to be moved, use your fingernail or a wooden dowel, NOT a metal tool, to move the wraps.
Once the wraps are where you want them, you can snug them down tighter with your flat nose pliers. Front
and back sides are shown below.
Step 6: You will be making a 90°
bend AWAY from the wrong side of
the bundle, TOWARD the outside
(right side) of the wire bundle.
Place your flat nose pliers on the
outer line so you can barely see the
line. You could even cover the line
just a hair. With your fingers, bend
the bundle of wires 90° over the top
of the pliers.
Step 7: Center the wire bundle on the 1” mandrel. Carefully bend the bundle around the mandrel. The 90°
bent wires should meet or be extremely close. When you pull the top wires close together around the
cabochon, they should meet and the cabochon should be tight in the wire bezel you just created. The bezel
will spring out a bit, right photo, until you wrap the bent wires together.
Step 8: Using painters tape, secure all the wire ends
together. Temporarily secure the cabochon in the
bezel with painters tape.

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Step 9: Make a hook about 1” from the end of the half
round wire. The bend should be wide enough to
accommodate two thicknesses of square wire. Position
the hook at the base of the straight wires with the cut end
toward the back and the bend on the front of the
assembly. Wrap tightly around the square wires,
tightening down the half round wire after each wrap, until
there are 5 wraps showing in the front. Try not to overlap
the wraps but have them nestle tightly side by side. DO
NOT CUT THE WRAP WIRE OFF!
Step 10: Remove the tape from the wires. Pull the back
two wires slightly away
from the bundle.
Step 11: Using the largest section of a 3-step pliers, grasp the two separated
wires about ½” up from the last wrap. Bend the wires around the plier
barrel as shown until they touch the back of the cabochon.
Step 12: Make a 30° bend in the bail wires about 1/8” up from the last wrap.
You will need to hold the assembly up and “eyeball” where to place your
pliers for the bend.
Step 13: Make sure that the wrap wires are underneath the bent bail wires on the back of the assembly (see
above photo). Hold the bail wires tightly to the cabochon. Using the long wrap wire, wrap, going down
around the bail wires and previously wrapped section, securing the bail wires tightly to the assembly.
Tighten down the half round wire after each wrap. Try not to overlap the wraps but to have them nestle
tightly side by side. Trim the short wrap wire off close to the bail wires after three wraps have been made.

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Step 14: Trim the bail wires off below and flush with the last wrap.
Step 15: Slip the wrap wire tail between the cabochon and bezel just under
the last wrap. Pull the wire tightly to the front. Trim the wire even with the
bezel wires. When you remove the tape holding the cabochon in place, push
the wire up into the assembly.
Step 16: Remove the painters tape from the cabochon. Use round or chain nose pliers to make bends in the
outer back wire close to each wrap on the back of the cabochon. Notice that the tips of the pliers are spread a
bit. Note: Be extremely careful to not scratch your cabochon. Once you make a bend, you really can’t go back
and fix it, so go slowly and be patient. You do not need to make bends at the top of the cabochon.

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Step 17: Turn the assembly over to the front. Use your thumbnail
to separate and push up the top wire on either side of center bottom.
Note: If you do not have thumbnails long enough to do this, use a non-
serrated knife to separate the wires and a ½” dowel to push the wires
up.
Step 18: Separate the remaining wires, three to each
side. Optional: Twist the center wire in each section.
Step 19: Curve each wire
set around as shown. If you
can’t do this easily or neatly
by hand, bend the wires
around a 5/16” mandrel.
Step 20: Trim the left side
wires so that they overlap
the cabochon slightly.
Using round or chain nose
pliers, make a small curl at
the end of each wire. Note:
You may need to trim the
wires to get the desired
effect.

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Step 21: Make a curved sweep over the top of the cabochon with the wires from the right side. Trim the
wires so that the wire closer to the center of the cabochon is shorter than the one to the outside. Slide three
3mm beads on the longer wire. Using round or chain nose pliers, make a small curl at the end of each wire.
Note: You may need to trim the wires to get the desired effect.
Step 23: Make adjustments in the curls so that they are staggered up the cabochon. Your pendant is finished!