Darfur on camelback 2000-2010


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Travels in Darfur from 2000-2010
Arita Baaijens traveled all over North Darfur on camel during 2000-2002. After the war broke out she went back to find the nomads she had travelled with

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Darfur on camelback 2000-2010

  1. 1. In 2008 Yussuf (r) still worked as a desert guide: bringing camels from Darfur to Egypt.
  2. 2. Darfur 2000-2010 <ul><li>In 2000-2002 I made several journeys on camel in North Darfur. </li></ul><ul><li>In 2008 and 2010 I went there again </li></ul><ul><li>And found the people I’d traveled with </li></ul>
  3. 4. My Arab escorts on my first journey in Darfur
  4. 5. <ul><li>When the war started one of the guards joined the army </li></ul><ul><li>The other one left Darfur: “I refuse to kill my own people.” </li></ul>
  5. 6. <ul><li>2000-2002 I made 3 trips </li></ul><ul><li>Lots of bandits </li></ul><ul><li>I used escorts for protection </li></ul><ul><li>It was dangerous - but war </li></ul><ul><li>seemed far away </li></ul>
  6. 7. Darfur (2000)
  7. 8. <ul><li>I traveled out of curiousity </li></ul><ul><li>Wanted to know how nomads lived in </li></ul><ul><li>‘ normal’ times, when rain falls and </li></ul><ul><li>disaster journalists are absent </li></ul>
  8. 9. Ain Farah, 2002
  9. 10. What did I see? <ul><li>No asphalt roads </li></ul><ul><li>No hospitals </li></ul><ul><li>Hardly any schools </li></ul><ul><li>The government didn’t seem to care </li></ul><ul><li>But people managed, as always </li></ul>
  10. 11. Mobile school (Darfur, 2002)
  11. 12. <ul><li>Some nomadic families hire a teacher </li></ul><ul><li>They pay him about 10 sheep per year </li></ul><ul><li>The teacher stays 4 years – and lives in </li></ul><ul><li>in a tent like the other nomads </li></ul>
  12. 13. Seasonal migration of Mahria (Darfur 2002)
  13. 14. Meidob land (2000)
  14. 15. <ul><li>Before 2003 conflicts were caused by </li></ul><ul><li>scarce natural resources, like water </li></ul><ul><li>Women walk up to 6 hours to fetch water – </li></ul><ul><li>they do this every other day </li></ul>
  15. 18. North Darfur, 2008
  16. 19. North Darfur, 2008
  17. 20. <ul><li>On my next visit in 2008 the war had </li></ul><ul><li>changed everything </li></ul>
  18. 21. Yussuf (r), was my guide in Darfur in 2000
  19. 22. In 2008 Yussuf (r) still worked as a desert guide: bringing camels from Darfur to Egypt.
  20. 23. <ul><li>The job was much more dangerous than before </li></ul><ul><li>The journey also took longer, to avoid fights and raids </li></ul><ul><li>Some of the guides were janjaweed </li></ul>
  21. 24. My former escort had joined the army (2008)
  22. 25. Kutum, Darfur (2008)
  23. 26. <ul><li>Local peace agreements made it </li></ul><ul><li>possible for people to travel to markets </li></ul><ul><li>In Kutum Arabs and non-Arabs mixed in the </li></ul><ul><li>market place </li></ul><ul><li>But the situation could change any minute </li></ul>
  24. 27. Girls sell wood and grass in Kutum Dangerous job to collect it (rape)
  25. 28. Arabs and non Arabs mix at the market in Kutum
  26. 29. Camp Greer – Arab nomads on the run for the rebels (2008)
  27. 31. Camp Greer
  28. 32. Mahria sheikh, Camp Greer (2008)
  29. 33. Camp Greer. Waterpump, stolen from a farmer?
  30. 34. Deserted village in North Darfur
  31. 35. Village elders discuss a return to the village (2008)
  32. 37. <ul><li>The man on the book cover is Adam, a guard from the Meidob who was my safe guard in 2000 </li></ul><ul><li>In 2008 he protected his town Malha </li></ul>
  33. 38. Adam 2008
  34. 39. We travelled in a local bus through rebel territory (2008)
  35. 40. I looked for teacher Yussuf Fadlallah (r) and found him in the Meidob mountains
  36. 41. <ul><li>The teacher had accompanied me in 2002 </li></ul><ul><li>in the Meidob mountains. Arabs were not </li></ul><ul><li>allowed in the mountains then - out of fear </li></ul><ul><li>they would take over the water wells </li></ul>
  37. 42. Yussuf Fadlallah is a brilliant math teacher, he could earn more in the city, but preferred to help his people
  38. 43. Malha, Meidob – school teachers 2008
  39. 44. Rebel commanders, Meidob (2008)
  40. 45. <ul><li>These men went to university – but had no jobs. </li></ul><ul><li>That’s why they became rebel commanders </li></ul><ul><li>‘ We want our rights’, they explained their mission </li></ul><ul><li>Meaning: Money and Power for themselves </li></ul>
  41. 46. Meidob rebel commander Darfur (2008)
  42. 47. <ul><li>English teachers leave local schools to work for UN </li></ul>Brain drain: English teachers leave local schools to work for the UN
  43. 48. <ul><li>I went back to North Darfur in 2010 </li></ul><ul><li>The fighting parties don’t want peace </li></ul><ul><li>And the world turns its back on Darfur </li></ul>
  44. 49. www.aritabaaijens.nl