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Marketing Translation for the Beauty Industry - ATA presentation 2009 updated


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2009 ATA presentation on the role of translation in the beauty industry

Published in: Business, Lifestyle
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Marketing Translation for the Beauty Industry - ATA presentation 2009 updated

  1. 1. Transforming Science Into Dreams:g Taking A Closer Look by Agnes Meilhac
  2. 2. Cosmetics from the Greek “kosmetikos” or skilled at d t Cosmetics adornment “ ti l i t d d t b bb d“articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, i t d d i t th i li d tintroduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body… for cleansing, b tif i ti tt tibeautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance” CFD&C Act
  3. 3. Cosmetics: Part of Our Culture and Civilization
  4. 4. Global Overview: the Cosmetics Industry Todaythe Cosmetics Industry Today The Worldwide Cosmetics Market 1993 – 2009 Average annual growth rate + 4.2% Source: L’Oreal estimates, September 2010
  5. 5. Market Structure and Size Source: L’Oreal, 2008
  6. 6. Top 10 Global Cosmetics Companies: 55% Total Market Sales55% Total Market Sales Source: L’Oreal, June 2009
  7. 7. Main Business Segments Source: L’Oreal estimates, 2008, excl. soap, toothpaste and razors
  8. 8. Defining Factors l dExternal trade R&D and Innovation Advertising / sales ratio
  9. 9. An Industry Geared Toward Exports Size of exports in € by country relative to the size of the domestic market (2006) 80% 90% EU27 US 50% 60% 70% 80% Japan China Germany 30% 40% 50% France UK Italy S i 0% 10% 20% Spain
  10. 10. Cosmetics Industry: R & D d I tiR & D and Innovation 7,000 8,000 Progression in the number of patents published 5,000 6,000 China Japan 2 000 3,000 4,000 Japan US EU27 0 1,000 2,000 0 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 Source: European Patent Office (EPO)
  11. 11. Advertising Over Sales Ratio 25.00% Cosmetic advertising expenditure = $2.2 bn (2005) 15 00% 20.00% 25.00% 5 00% 10.00% 15.00% 0.00% 5.00% c d y s n e r e cosm etic foodpharm acy w ireless m m unication software m iconductorfeinsurance p com m sem i life Advertising / sales ratio across different industries in the US (2005)
  12. 12. What Innovation? What Technology? Waterproof mascara that does not run Anti-dandruff shampoos Face powder that eliminates shiny skin Light-reflecting pigments concealing shadows under the eyes Sun creams (protection against harmful UV rays) Self-tanning products
  13. 13. Today’s Brandsy Are DefinedAre Defined by INNOVATION (Handout p. 4)
  14. 14. Innovation: from Science to Language Language of Cosmetics Lexical Syntactic Rhetorical Loan words Present tenseLoan words Neologisms Verbs Verbal adjectives Present tense Active vs. Passive Tone Impersonal Imperatives Metaphors, similes and metonymy Personificationadjectives Buzzwords Imperatives Personification Superlatives
  15. 15. The Language of Cosmetics: S i ifi T h i l Ad i i P h k?Scientific, Technical, Advertising or Patchwork? (Handout p. 1) i / advertising science / technology
  16. 16. What Makes the Difference? Lexical FeaturesLexical Features Borrowings Neologisms Buzzwords & catchphrases Role of verbs catchphrases
  17. 17. Loan Words in Translation: Intentional StrategyIntentional Strategy 1 From another language (culturally bound1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate) Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant (*) 2. From another field of expertise Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):y ( ) The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna  (gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical  process an unknown concept)process, an unknown concept) -> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress
  18. 18. e “Fondant” B tt lt i hi bsite Buttery, meltaway, vanishing, rich and creamy, divinely luscious, luxurious, sumptuous? MAT‐CHRONO web , , p Moisturizing emulsion Enriched with moisturizing and instant‐ any action mattifying agents, this astonishingly  fresh‐textured, fondant emulsion leaves  skin looking ideally shine‐free and feeling  moisturized from the moment of ompa moisturized from the moment of  application. Soft‐focus pigments work to  conceal the appearance of skin  irregularities. The skin’s texture looks more  UKco refined. U
  19. 19. e Mat‐Chrono Émulsion bsite Moisturizing Emulsion web Exclusively formulated to prevent and  treat shiny skin and enlarged pores,  this cream for day time contains a  anyw y Triple Action Complex that improves  skin’s elasticity, regulates the t‐zone  and tightens pores. Oil‐Free. ompa $44.00  1.42 OZ USco U
  20. 20. Linguistic Mutation or Frenglish / Denglish / Spanglish? Language evolves  over time as usage  hchanges. “... many  borrowings enter a  language throughlanguage through  translation...” * * Vinay & Darbelnet (1958)
  21. 21. Loan Words in Translation: Intentional StrategyIntentional Strategy 1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate) Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL cultureelements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant 2. From another field of expertise Vinay & Darbelnet (1958): The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna  (gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical  process an unknown concept)process, an unknown concept) -> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress
  22. 22. Aquacurrent Science by P&G - Aquacurrent Science: Moving Moisture Where It's Needed. Water is the universal solvent - central to life on earth and essential to overall health, beauty and wellness. While skin care and hair care products have traditionally focused on "locking-in" water moisture, the recent discovery of micro- channels underneath the skin's surface underscores the importance of releasing and channeling water to maintain healthy skin. Th N b l P i i i di f i t i i ti f tiThe Nobel Prize-winning discovery of aquaporins, proteins consisting of tiny micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin's surface, is providing scientists with a new and better target to retain and enhance moisture in the skin. Aquacurrent Science, inspired by the discovery of aquaporins, is the basis of unique product formulations that utilize the natural properties of water to help move moisture where it's needed for the best possible results. Click below to learn b t li ti f thi i ti imore about applications of this innovative science. =
  23. 23. Aquaporin Technology by DIOR Dior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendaryDior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendary  HydrAction Collection—the ultimate moisturizing arsenal for normal, dry, and  combination skin. From sorbet‐light crèmes to effective refining treatments,  Dior's skin‐soothing secret weapon—Aquacapt™ Complex—helps reinforce g p q p p p your complexion's natural moisture reserves to keep it feeling soft and hydrated  all day long.
  24. 24. 5 phrases for talking about HYDRACTION ? Activity 2003 Aquaporin 2005 21 3 in 1 second, encourages the passage of 1 billion water molecules 4 5 ON THE SURFACE: Immediate hydration INTENSE AND ACTIVE HYDRATION TEST RESULTS after only 1 application to the skin + 77% in immediate hydration 4 5 DEEP WITHIN: Long-term hydration y The cells are brimming with moisture Water circulation is activated 77% y + 30% in 24-hour hydration D h d ti li di th ki Water circulation is activated, skin replenished with moisture Dehydration lines disappear, the skin feels suppler, refreshed, plumper, more luminous and comfortable.
  25. 25. Loan Words: Borrowed from Science i i • hydratemoisturize • exfoliatescrub • regeneraterevitalize dehydration, keratinization, detoxification, hyperpigmentation,  comedogenicity, post‐inflammatory response, phototoxic g y, p f y p , p reaction, free radicals, antioxidants, trophicity, dystrophy,  collagen synthesis, cellular metabolism, lipolysis, lipogenesis,  sebum secretion enzymatic trigger glycation keratolyticsebum secretion, enzymatic trigger, glycation, keratolytic,  extracellular matrix, dermis, epidermis, stratum corneum, etc. 
  26. 26. Calques Vinay & Darbelnet (1958): A special kind of borrowing, resulting in either: • A lexical calque (borrowed word translated  literally): d ti ti l ttifliterally): dermocosmetics, cosmeceuticals, mattify,  photo‐aging (short for photo‐induced aging), de‐stress,  de‐wrinkle... • A structural calque (borrowed expression  with each of its elements translated into TL):  optical corrector pigments (pigments correcteurs optiques, Nuxe),  head note (also: top note), heart note (also: middle note),  palpate and roll massage (palper rouler) external aggressionspalpate and roll massage (palper rouler), external aggressions  (stress factors), cosmeto‐clinical trial, barrier function, ...
  27. 27. Calques: Examples de-stress (FR: déstresser): “Elemis Soothing Chamomile Cleanser is a hypoallergenic, cooling, cleansing milk that removes impurities and make-up whilst calming and de-stressing the most sensitive skins. It i f l t d ith h i i t t f G Ch ilIt is formulated with harmonizing extracts of German Chamomile that soothe and de-stress the skin. Good for extra sensitive, delicate and hormonal skin.” de-wrinkle (FR: dérider): “L’Oréal Dermo Expertise Age Perfect Cleansing Milkp g g Enriched with magnesium, known for its revitalizing properties and vitamin C known for its energizing properties, the formula: --Helps to de-wrinkle the skin and reduce the signs of fatigue in mature skin. --Hydrates the skin”
  28. 28. The Alternative: ParaphrasingThe Alternative: Paraphrasing FR: décongestionner eliminate / remove / clear embedded impurities and toxins, calm swollen areas FR: désincruster deep-cleanse (unclog the pores) FR: défatiguer revitalize invigorate stimulateFR: défatiguer revitalize, invigorate, stimulate FR: dé i filt li i t fl id ddésinfiltrer eliminate excess fluids, reduce dégonfler puffiness, reduce edema/swelling désengorger by improved re-absorption and drainer drainage of retained liquids and toxins, calm swollen areas (Nuxe)
  29. 29. Neologisms: N W d F i / N M iNew Word Formations / New Meaning “newly coined lexical units or existing lexical units that acquire a new sense” (Newmark, 2001:140) Established: moisturizer / concealer i i i iMore recent coinages: bronzer, volumizer, luminizer / luminizing (YSL), highlighter, complexion-brightener (Dior), booster, corrector, crepiness, glide-on, youth( ), , , p , g , y grafter (Helena Rubinstein) cosmeceuticals, nanoparticulate, MYO-aging (L'Oréal), photoaging, dermobiotic (LRP) Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP fordermobiotic (LRP), Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP for capryloyl salicylic acid)
  30. 30. Creative Compounding: E i U i E li h Ad i i LExtensive Use in English Advertising Language body enhancing body sculptingbody-enhancing, body-sculpting, body-contouring, figure-slimming, FR: amincissant skin-tensing, slimming shine‐free  acne‐prone bring‐along  take‐anywhere wrinkle‐filling film‐formingacne prone  (instead of acneic) longer‐lasting quick absorbing take anywhere on‐the‐go  (FR: nomade) radiance boosting film forming  (= filmogenic)  pick‐me‐up  (noun and adj)quick‐absorbing brush‐on must‐have radiance‐boosting skin‐lifting pore‐clarifying (noun and adj) touch‐up fatigue‐busting (déf )light‐reflecting,  natural‐looking lipid‐replenishing  (FR: relipidant) (défatiguant)
  31. 31. Brand-Specific Concepts: Translating brand-specific concepts = translating a Question of “Corporate Culture” a s a g b a d spec c co cep s a s a g culture-specific concepts (CSCs) Possibilities: Paraphrase: explain the meaning of the SL expression instead of translating it Modulation: use a TL term that seems similar to or has the same "relevance" as the SL term Loan / borrowing: preserve the SL term intact Neologism: make up a new word
  32. 32. The Never-Ending Struggle: Finding the Right Balance (Handout p 5) Venuti (1995): To domesticate or to foreignize? (Handout p. 5) To domesticate or to foreignize? “peau intolérante” hypersensitive hypersensitive  i t l ti t l tskin skin  intolerant  skin intolerant  skin
  33. 33. The Never-Ending Struggle: Finding the Right Balance Venuti (1995): To domesticate or to foreignize? “fixer la lumière” reflect lightreflect lightreflect lightreflect light hold lighthold light
  34. 34. « Chaque harmonie se compose de six teintes, parmi trois familles de couleurs, spécifiquement choisies pour recréer un éclat sur mesure : -- Des couleurs correctrices pastel pour rectifier la tonalité de la peau. Le vert atténue le trop de rose des teints clairs ; le rose dé i l t i t t l bl déj it l t i t f ti é ldégrise les teints ternes ; le bleu déjaunit les teints fatigués ; le mauve fixe la lumière et éclaircit les zones d’ombres de tous les teints. » “Each color harmony is comprised of six shades, from three different color families, which were specially chosen to recreate customized radiance: - Corrective pastel colors to even out skin tone. Green diminishes the excessive pink hue in fair skin; pink adds a healthy glow to a dull complexion; blue takes the yellow tone out of tired skin; mauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness tomauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness to shadowed areas in all complexions.”
  35. 35. Brand-Specific Choices: Combinations vs. Consistency puffiness and swelling puffy bags under eyes g dark  [ (under)eye ] under eyes [ (under)eye ]  circles  /  shadows puffy, undereye bags baggy eyes
  36. 36. Buzzwords and Catchphrases: Dynamic Equivalence in ActionDynamic Equivalence in Action Translation approach based on the “principle of equivalent effect” and tailoring the message to the receptor’s linguistic needs and cultural expectations anti-aging: age-decelerating (Clinique), receptor s linguistic needs and cultural expectations… (Nida, 1964) anti aging: age decelerating (Clinique), age-defying, age-reversing, age-perfecting, age-deflecting, de-aging anti-aging, the Baby Boomer version: pro-youth, pro-age, preserving, image extending, youth extending
  37. 37. orDioebyViede’OrL
  38. 38. Product Benefits and Results: V b d V b l Adj tiVerbs and Verbal Adjectives C t d t b d tC u stomers do n ot bu y a produ ct; they buy the benefits and results it affords them.“Up” verbs “Down”verbsUp  verbs Down verbs activate, boost, accelerate, energize reduce, diminish, lessen, decrease ease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, eraseease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, erase fortify, strengthen, nourish, nurture rid / free (the skin), eliminate, remove stimulate, invigorate relax, de‐stress, de‐wrinkle smooth, even out, plump up, firm mask, hide, conceal, disguise,  improve, enhance, emphasize fight, combat, battle illuminate, brighten, suffuse with… de‐emphasize
  39. 39. Product Benefits and Results: V b d V b l Adj ti V b ith th fi Verbs and Verbal Adjectives Verbs with the prefix –re (intention to produce a better result): r e d e s i g n t h e f a c i a l o u t l i n e s r e s t r u c t u r e t h e i n t e r c e l l u l a r c e m e n t , r e p l e n i s h m o i s t u r e r e s e r v e s , r e n e w c o l l a g e n f i b e r sr e n e w c o l l a g e n f i b e r s , r e j u v e n a t e , r e a c t i v a t e t h e s k i n ’ s r e p a i r p r o c e s s , r e t e x t u r i z e / r e f i n i s h t h e s k i n ’ s s u r f a c e , r e f i n e t h e s k i n ’ s t e x t u r e , r e g e n e r a t e d a m a g e d c e l l s , r e b a l a n c e d e e p h y d r a t i o n ,
  40. 40. Product Benefits and Results: Verbs and Verbal Adjectives Participal/verbal adjectives (same form as the participle of a verb) ‐ing (properties/qualities): relaxing, stimulating, invigorating, exfoliating, nourishing, deep-cleansing, brightening, whitening, skin-lifting, pore-clarifying… ‐ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated,ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated, exfoliated, lifted, plumped up, enhanced in appearance, replenished…
  41. 41. Spotlight on Adjectives and Adverbs: E t i fExtensive use of: Evaluative /comparative adjectives: “For the first time, there’s a remarkable gel that can give your hair any look you want – sleeker, fuller, straighter, curlier, more natural even wet without a drop of alcohol or oil ”natural, even wet – without a drop of alcohol or oil.” Adverbs (adjective or verb modifiers): th hl i t i d / id ll h d t d ki f ll l t dthoroughly moisturized / ideally hydrated skin, carefully selected ingredients, expertly formulated skin care products, beautifully youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly smoothed,youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly smoothed, intensely replenished, genuinely more even-toned, etc.
  42. 42. Terminology Choices (Register) Distinguishing features of language associated with variations in context and relating to the language user (jargon) and/or language use: 1. field = subject matter 2 t it d l ti hi2. tenor = writer-reader relationship 3. mode = formal/informal efficacy (FR: efficacité) effectiveness technicity (FR: technicité) technical expertise technical sophisticationtechnical sophistication superfatting extra rich, (FR: agent surgraissant, high-lipid, gel surgras) lipid-enriched
  43. 43. What Makes the Difference? For Future DiscussionFor Future Discussion… Syntactic Features Present Imperative Avoidance Ellipsis Syntactic Features Present tense, active Imperative, interrogative and cond. Avoidance of negatives Ellipsis (elliptical sentences) voice sentences
  44. 44. What Makes the Difference? For Future DiscussionFor Future Discussion… Rhetorical Features M t h P ifi ti S l ti E h i Rhetorical Features Metaphor, simile, metonymy Personification Superlatives (hyperbole) Euphemisms, semantic ambiguitymetonymy ambiguity
  45. 45. Thank you for your attention! Agnes Meilhac