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CoSTUME National


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An analysis of CoSTUME National, an Italian fashion house; specifically, the label\'s style and marketing strategy. Part of my coursework at Università Bocconi, Milan.

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CoSTUME National

  1. 1. Alex Cookson Jancis Cunliffe Katie Matthews Lauren Stoneberg CoSTUME NATIONAL
  2. 2. HISTORY 1986: Ennio Capasa (designer) and his brother Carlo establish the brand CoSTUME NATIONAL after Ennio’s return from three years in Japan working for Yohji Yamamoto; the name of the brand is inspired by a book about French uniforms. First collection is described as ‘essential and sophisticated, intellectual and creative, at times severe, often sexy yet always wearable’ 1991: Shows women’s collection in Paris 1993: Launches Costume National Homme – said to have ‘divined the mood of male fashion for the 1990s’ – the preferred look is a tuxedo jacket with leather or woven jeans 1996: Pitti Immagine Uomo dedicates its 51st version to the brand 1998: Head offices are opened in Milan, and boutiques in Milan, New York and Tokyo; later boutiques are opened in Rome, Los Angeles and Paris 2002: Scent trilogy is launched after Ennio Capasa personally dedicates two years to the project 2003: Range of eye glasses is launched 2004:  C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL, the brand’s second line, is launched 2005: collaboration between C’N’C and Ducati results in a range of items and accessories 2006:   Ennio Capasa designs the “Black Dogo” motorbike for Ducati 2007 : Costume National Active (a range of deluxe sneakers) is launched; “Absolute Vodka for Fashion Animals” vodka bottle; Autovettura Alfa Romeo 147; launch of unisex perfume ‘Costume National 21’ 2008: Licence agreement between CoSTUME NATIONAL and CULT for eyewear comes into effect
  3. 3. HISTORY 1986: CoSTUME NATIONAL 1991: Women’s collection shown in Paris 1993: CoSTUME NATIONAL Homme 1996: Pitti Immagine Uomo’s 51 st version 2002: Scent trilogy 1998: Head office (Milan) and boutiques (Milan, NY, Tokyo, Rome, LA, Paris) opened 2003: Eyeglass range 2004: C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL 2005: Ducati/C’N’C accessories 2006: CoSTUME NATIONAL active (sneakers), Absolut Vodka for Fashion Animals, Autovettura Alfa Romeo 147, CoSTUME NATIONAL 21 perfume
  4. 4. ” “ ASPIRATIONAL The woman in my mind is definitely cosmopolitan, a woman who knows how to be at one and the same time a bit sexy, chic, street smart and also couture TARGETS – Ennio Capasa
  5. 5. ASPIRATIONAL CoSTUME NATIONAL TARGETS <ul><li>Mature Women and Men, 30+ years old </li></ul><ul><li>High income individuals </li></ul><ul><li>People who are edgy and stylish in the way they dress, but not ostentatious </li></ul>C’N’C CoSTUME NATIONAL <ul><li>Women and Men, 20-30 years old </li></ul><ul><li>High income individuals (but not as high as CoSTUME NATIONAL customers) </li></ul><ul><li>People who are edgy and sporty in the way they dress </li></ul>
  6. 6. DONNA STYLISTIC IDENTITY <ul><li>Colours: </li></ul><ul><li>Black and white contrasts </li></ul><ul><li>Dark and natural tones </li></ul><ul><li>Cool and neutral colour infusions </li></ul><ul><li>High-impact contrast intensity </li></ul><ul><li>Fabrics: </li></ul><ul><li>Sheers and glosses </li></ul><ul><li>Super-tech fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Sleek sheens </li></ul><ul><li>Outerwear: heavier knits </li></ul><ul><li>Crinkly: reflective material </li></ul><ul><li>Lines: </li></ul><ul><li>Sharp lines </li></ul><ul><li>Strict tailoring </li></ul><ul><li>Slim silhouette </li></ul><ul><li>Edgy finishes </li></ul><ul><li>Precise display of fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Shapes: </li></ul><ul><li>Triangular </li></ul><ul><li>Criss-cross detail </li></ul><ul><li>Rectangular </li></ul><ul><li>Material built up around shoulders </li></ul>
  7. 7. UOMO STYLISTIC IDENTITY <ul><li>Colours: </li></ul><ul><li>Black and white contrasts </li></ul><ul><li>Dark and natural tones </li></ul><ul><li>Spring collection: colours lighter and more romantic </li></ul><ul><li>Highlights: burnt yellow and silvery midnight blue </li></ul><ul><li>Evening wear: high intensity </li></ul><ul><li>Day wear: low intensity </li></ul><ul><li>Fabrics: </li></ul><ul><li>Super-tech fabrics </li></ul><ul><li>Sleek sheens </li></ul><ul><li>Futuristic materials </li></ul><ul><li>Denim accents </li></ul><ul><li>Body-hugging leathers </li></ul><ul><li>Slim knits </li></ul><ul><li>Lines: </li></ul><ul><li>Sharp lines </li></ul><ul><li>Slim silhouette </li></ul><ul><li>Edgy finishes </li></ul><ul><li>Shapes: </li></ul><ul><li>Square </li></ul><ul><li>Rectangular </li></ul><ul><li>Minimal patterns </li></ul>
  8. 8. STYLISTIC <ul><li>Fashion content: </li></ul><ul><li>Basics reflecting street chic trends </li></ul><ul><li>Price range: </li></ul><ul><li>Ready-to-wear (RTW) </li></ul><ul><li>Style: </li></ul><ul><li>Classic with a contemporary twist </li></ul><ul><li>East and West world influences </li></ul><ul><li>Futuristic and architectural inspiration </li></ul><ul><li>Edgy, sporty, and urban </li></ul>IDENTITY <ul><li>Product spectrum: </li></ul><ul><li>Women’s and men’s clothing </li></ul><ul><li>Shoes </li></ul><ul><li>Leather goods </li></ul><ul><li>Knitwear </li></ul><ul><li>Small accessories </li></ul><ul><li>Fragrances </li></ul><ul><li>Eyewear </li></ul>
  9. 9. RETAIL <ul><li>Direct Channel </li></ul><ul><li>CoSTUME NATIONAL operates six directly operated stores (DOS) in Milan, Rome, Paris, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo </li></ul>IDENTITY <ul><li>Indirect Channel </li></ul><ul><li>CoSTUME NATIONAL sells through multi-brand stores, notably department stores (e.g., Macy’s, Harvey Nichols, Barneys New York) and specialty stores </li></ul>
  10. 10. MILANO RETAIL Features: TV screens in walls display runway shows; ads are displayed on the walls; nothing in-store dramatic enough to take attention away from the clothes IDENTITY Materials: hard materials on wall (plastic/melamine panelling), but soft materials on the floor (suede- or velvet-like carpet and seating) Colours: white and cream, grey, black; all colour in the store is given by the clothes/accessories on display Image/style: minimalist, sleek, clean, and cool, yet personal and cosy Lights: lights are not a feature of the store; lights shine down upon the racks of clothes on display Music: relaxed music played softly so as not to be overbearing; English lyrics; music in-store less edgy than that of the online store
  11. 11. MILANO RETAIL IDENTITY Shapes: almost all straight lines (panels, counter, display cubby-holes are all rectangular or square), but seating is curved Store layout: the store is small and has the counter in the very centre, facing the door; the clothes are displayed on racks around the outside walls, with no displays in the centre of the room Sales assistance: cordial and helpful; staff are ready to assist but aren’t pushy; staff wear black, which fits with the feel of the store Product disposition: no mannequins are used to display the clothes; the only products that are displayed facing the customer are shoes and bags, while all clothes are placed perpendicular to the walls on racks; clothes are grouped by colour Shopping experience: personal, small store; no clutter Store windows: there are no store windows; the door is the only transparent area facing the street: keeps the feel of the store personal, since not many people would walk into the store without knowing the brand
  12. 12. IMAGE <ul><li>Advertisements: </li></ul><ul><li>Minimalist </li></ul><ul><li>Often in black & white </li></ul><ul><li>Heavy shadowing </li></ul><ul><li>Professional models used </li></ul><ul><li>Low focus on face </li></ul><ul><li>Edgy </li></ul><ul><li>Tough chic </li></ul>IDENTITY
  13. 13. ” “ IMAGE <ul><li>Interviews/PR: </li></ul><ul><li>Celebrity endorsements (Tom Cruise, Katie Holmes, Hilary Swank) </li></ul><ul><li>Film festivals </li></ul>IDENTITY <ul><li>Fashion shows: </li></ul><ul><li>Traditional lighting and setting </li></ul><ul><li>Rock music with a heavy beat </li></ul>For me cinema has always been a key source of inspiration – Ennino Capasa
  14. 14. CONCLUSIONS Basic Simple colours Edgy CoSTUME NATIONAL Products Simple designs Mostly black & white Urban and sporty Store Spartan design, little decoration, no distractions from the product Mostly black & white Use of lines, trendy music, interesting presentation of clothes (cubbies)      
  15. 15. CONCLUSIONS Traditional ads Professional models in dramatic poses (distracts from the product) Mostly black & white Professional models in dramatic poses, communicates an exciting lifestyle    Basic Simple colours Edgy Website No poses, models are a canvas for the clothes (not a distraction from the product) Mostly black & white, with accents of brighter colours Use of lines, trendy music, visually appealing       CoSTUME NATIONAL’s different channels are almost completely cohesive. They all use simple ways and simple colours to communicate the message of edgy products