- The information has been gathered through customer and staff interviews, shop inspections and the company websites7 for all mankind has traditional, simple designs and represents rather an elegant than a sexy style.- In comparison, Diesel´s designs are very experimental, innovative and modern. Diesel is perceived as a young, fresh and cool brand.
Both companies have been ranked in the above 4 categories from 1 (weak) to 4 (strong). The length of the bars shows how strong the brands have been ranked respectively. Diesel has a rather strong retail presence in 1 tier cities but also uses wholesale in 2 tier cities. 7 for all mankind hardly uses retail and is overall less present than Diesel.- The category product presentation represents the shop layout, decoration and perceived service quality of the staff. In China Diesel´s product range is very broad and includes a wide range of accessories. 7 for all mankind only focusses on jeans.- The price for both Diesel and 7 for all Mankind jeans range between 2000 and 3000 RMB.- The ranking has been conducted within our team after interviewing customers, the staff of retail and wholesale shops in Shanghai and the inspection of shop layouts and websites
To know more about the consumers, we did a street survey in XinTian Di and Plaza 66. Those two places are famous for the luxury brands. We investigated 26 frequent luxury goods buyers. The 3 most important key finding are:Most luxury goods buyers don’t know TRJ.Young professionals aging from 22-30s, with annual income from 200,000 – 400,000 are more likey to buy TRJ.TRJ has very high loyalty among its customers. People buy TRJ because its design. They think TRJ can make them look much better, and they tend to buy TRJ again when they need more jeans.
In order to have brand awareness, product must be present. So it is a question of either retail or wholesale.
Because of the significant empty-space issue across the real-estate board, pop-ups are an opportunity for both entrepreneurs and big brands to make some money without having to worry about the overhead of a five-year lease.Because they are temporary, pop-ups can take risks. They don’t need as much polish, so they don’t need as much investment. Broad range of big retailers and brand names have entered into this game: Diesel, Toys ‘R’ Us, Gap, Target, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Citizens of Humanity, Comme des Garcon, and Nike just to name a few.Pop-ups provide an opportunity for retailers to test a product and create some buzz around their brand.When Ann Taylor opened 3 pop up shops through out NYC , after they closed the one-month stores, they increased traffic and sales to the permanent stores in the same area.
Survey results<br />Annual Income<br />Age<br />Those who are more likely to purchase/interested in TRJ are between the age of 22-30 and have a household income of 200K – 400K RMB / year<br />26.7% recognizes the brand<br />“I like True Religion”<br />57%<br />“I own True Religion”<br />14.3%<br />From 26 samples, >90% are frequent luxury brand consumers(>3 items/year)<br />
Brand Attitude and substitutes<br />TRJ is perceived as too expensive, as a result customers are purchasing: Calvin Klein, DKNY, and Diesel as substitutes (priced $1000 RMB less than TRJ).<br />
How Trends Filter Into China?<br />Taiwan<br />Japan<br />Shanghai<br />USA & Europe<br />Hong Kong<br />Source: "How Do Trends Filter into China" November 24, 2009 (http://enovatechina.com/blog/?p=1526)<br />
How Trends Filter Into China?<br />Taiwan<br />Japan<br />Beijing<br />USA & Europe<br />Hong Kong<br />Source: "How Do Trends Filter into China" November 24, 2009 (http://enovatechina.com/blog/?p=1526)<br />
Recommendations<br />PRICE: Pricing Strategy<br />Better control - MSRP<br />PROMOTION: TRJ Brand Equity is low in China<br />Chinese Stars<br />PR Events<br />Advertising/Marketing<br />PLACE: No Retail presence in China<br />Pop up shops – low risk/low capital<br />
Pricing strategy<br />TRJ must better control its retail price in China. Otherwise, customers will continue to reach out to substitutes.<br />
Chinese or Western Models?<br />“You will find that many Chinese young people study how to dress like Kate Moss, study how to smoke like AgynessDeynand also discuss the freaky tattoos of Cole Mohr. But Du Juan, Liu Wen, and Pei Bei represent the spiritual nature of China rather than an attitude of life for all of its people.” –Leon Ni, enoVate, Shanghai Insight & Design Firm<br />TRJ must usea western model, to sell the TRJ lifestyle and brand; and a Chinese model to identify with the Chinese market. <br />Marketing Communications(1) <br />Han Han<br />Huang Xiaoming<br />AgynessDeynand Cole Mohr<br />
Marketing Communications(2) <br />Music Festival Sponsorship<br />Modern Sky/Strawberry/Midi Festivals<br /><ul><li>Celebrity Party Sponsorship
F1 Celebration Party</li></li></ul><li>Wholesale vs. Retail<br />If only there was a way to mitigate risks and hedge against disadvantages of the retail/flagship model…<br />
POP UP SHOPS<br />The pop-up concept involves taking an empty retail unit, or any venue that could act as a temporary retail space, and operating it on a short-term basis during busy trading<br />periods.<br />"Advances in technology mean setting up and operating a pop-up is now much simpler and does not require a high level of capital” <br />- Accenture Study 2009<br />Source: ‘Pop Up Shops Cash in for Christmas’ Guardian UK, November 13, 2009<br />
Why Pop Up Shops?<br />Low Overhead: <br /><ul><li>Make some money without having to worry about the overhead of a five-year lease (~30-50 RMB psm / day).
Because they are temporary, pop-ups can take risks</li></ul>Tried and True: <br /><ul><li>Diesel, Toys ‘R’ Us, Gap, Target, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Citizens of Humanity, Comme des Garcon, and Nike just to name a few.</li></ul>Generate Buzz: <br />Pop-ups provide an opportunity for retailers to test a product and create some buzz around their brand.<br />Increased traffic to permanent stores.<br />Source: ‘The Pop Up Shop Phenomenon’ Times UK, December 28, 2008<br />Source: ‘Pop Up Shops Cash in for Christmas’ Guardian UK, November 13, 2009<br />
Why Not?<br />Location, Location, Location:<br />Unoccupied stores in hot retail locations aren't easy to come by.<br />Shanghai is not New York City<br />Why So Special?: <br />Must draw customers with that extra ‘something’<br />The pop-up concept can totally back-fire.<br />It’s Chinese to me:<br />China’s sales and real estate channel’s are difficult to navigate.<br />Source: ‘Pop Up Stores: All the Rage’ Businessweek, February 09, 2007<br />
Navigating Pop Up Shops in Shanghai<br />It’s already happening here!<br />
Navigating Pop Up Shops in Shanghai<br />It’s happening now! Vitamin Water in Shanghai<br />
Where and how much?<br />CITIC Square (West Nanjing)<br />HuaHai<br />Times Square (Pudong)<br />Customer traffic and brand mix of these places are a good fit for the TRJ brand<br />Source: “Shanghai Prime Retail” HSBC Q3 2008 Report<br />
How Does True Religion Fit In?<br />Temporary to Permanent Retail Model<br />CLOT opened permanent store after success of pop-up on December 5, 2008.<br />Shanghai is model for future first-tier city openings.<br />Enter with Big-Bang<br />Vitamin Water launch<br />LA SH<br />Party launch with LA & Chinese celebrities.<br />
Rising Counterfeit Goods Market</li></ul>Weaknesses<br /><ul><li>Reliance on Contract Manufacturing
Increasing Operating Expense</li></ul>Global Markets Direct Company Profiles, 3 November 2009<br />
Market Environment<br />Fastest growing: has become saturated and cluttered.<br />More than 40 start ups in 2000.<br />Sales are still high for designer jeans.<br />Up 5% in 2009: $8.2 Billion USD<br />Average prices lower by 1%.<br />“The key price is around $200…” Eric Jennings, Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s Fashion Director; <br />Recession has asked designer jeans to rethink pricing strategies.<br />Future of denim depends on ‘re-inventions’ <br />No longer about ‘wash’ or ‘fit’ – “…designers will need to evolve denim” in order to sustain demand, [RenzoRosso, Diesel Founder]<br />Source: “Preshrunk Prices” New York Times, October 28, 2009<br />
Marketing Communications(1) <br />Asian Face Endorsement<br />Huang Xiaoming<br />Lin Chi-ling<br />Why?<br />Halo effect<br />Asian face is closer, more familiar, more friendly to Chinese customers.<br />High end image from major stars.<br />Successful Case<br />Biotherm + Takeshi Kaneshiro<br />
What Others Are Doing…<br />Levi’s X Damien Hirst (Fred Segal, Los Angeles)<br />Louis Vuitton Underground (Seibu, Tokyo)<br />GAP 40th Anniversary (Canterbury St. London)<br />Diesel X Heartschallenger<br />(Causewaybay, Hong Kong)<br />
True Religion Brand JeansHistory and Operation<br />Founded in 2002 - Vernon, CA<br />Wide product range<br />Denim, pants, jackets, sportswear, shirts, t-shirts and sweatpants<br />2008 revenue is $270 million<br />76.75% CAGR in 2004-2008<br />66 branded retail stores<br />Sold in 50 countries worldwide<br />Timeless, Hippie, Bohemian, Chic. <br />Jeffrey Lubell<br />Founder, CEO and Artistic Director<br />"To me it meant there's many religions in the world, but there's only one real religion -- and that's people.” – Jeff<br />
Global business model<br />Majority of revenue from jeans<br />Premium pricing – up to $300<br />Made-in-USA<br />Fully outsourced<br />