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  1. 1. 07743 524 467 Vjay Lad Data visualisation Portfolio
  2. 2. ANGOSTURA BITTERS No, there wasn’t a mistake at the labelling factory, Angostura intentionally makes its bitters labels too big. The Trinidad-based company puts it down to a “laid-back Caribbean attitude” – legend has it that the person ordering the bottles didn’t think to communicate with the person in charge of the labels. McDONALD’S HAPPY MEAL Few packaging designs are more synonymous with a brand than McDonald’s Happy Meal box. Not that kids needed another reason to eat junk food, savvy marketers from the US chain decided in the late-1970s to tempt children to eat their calorific meals with a toy – something which is still working well for the brand to this day. Iconicpackaging-it’swhatisoutsidethatcounts Whether it’s clever marketing or an ingenious solution for everyday problems, some product designs have become cultural icons, celebrated in packaging’s hall of fame HEINZ TOMATO KETCHUP One of the most recognisable products to grace our kitchen cupboards. People have been struggling to get that last bit of sauce out since 1890, yet Heinz ketchup is still a must for meal times the world over, with 650 million bottles sold every year. Despite its squeezy – and some would say more practical – successor, a satisfying slap on the bottom of the original glass bottle will always be fondly remembered. MILK CARTON Toymaker John Van Wormer got the idea for the first “paper bottle” after smashing a glass milk bottle one morning, and took out a patent in 1915 for the Pure-Pak flat-top carton, though it took him more than ten years to perfect a machine capable of manufacturing on a large scale. Erik Wallenberg of Tetra Pak fame was credited with using less paper and an airtight seal for his tetrahedron design in 1944. PACKAGE SAVER Carmela Vitale is not a house- hold name, though her 1985 invention of the “package saver” is something everyone can be thankful for – the tiny plastic tripod has saved the world from squashed takeaway pizzas. WINE BOX Advertised as a convenient and economical alternative to bot- tles, bag-in-box wine is having somewhat of a renaissance. Comprised of a (unappetising) plastic bladder and air-tight valve inside a corrugated card container, box wine keeps fresh for up to six weeks, and reduc- es both packaging waste and carbon emissions compared with glass bottles. RING PULL Credited as the reason behind a rapid surge in the soft drinks market in the 1960s, Ermal Cleon Fraze from Ohio invented the first detachable ring pull in 1962, saving consumers the need to take a “church key” or can piercer wherever they went. It wasn’t until 1975, when Daniel Cudzik was granted a patent for “stay-tabs” similar to the ones we know today, that the environmental impact of discarded pull tops was addressed. COCA-COLA Despite going through many redesigns over the years, the classic Coca-Cola “contour” bottle created in 1916 is the one we all associate with the fizzy stuff. Renowned as a cultural icon, with its fluted lines to resemble a cocoa pod, and its distinctive, embossed script logo, the bottle definitely fits the original designer’s brief to “develop a container recog- nisable even if broken on the ground or touched in the dark”. MARMITE Both loved and hated, but recognised by all. Invented by German scientist Justus Von Liebig in the 19th century (before it was even called Marmite), the “food extract” was originally supplied in a marmite – the French term for a crockery casserole dish notable for its pot-belly shape – which inspired the bulbous jar that we all know today. QUALITY STREET First produced in West York- shire in the 1930s, the Quality Street collection tin goes hand in hand with family gatherings and is found on many a coffee table at Christmas – cracking open a tin can bring back a nostalgic whiff of cellophane and chocolate in an instant. CAMPBELL’S SOUP The Campbell’s red-and- white condensed soup can is undeniably iconic, though its fame cannot be attributable to designers at the Campbell Soup Company. Andy Warhol turned this basic aluminium can into an instant cultural sensation in his pop art piece in 1962, making a statement about American popular culture and consumerism, and at the same preserving Campbell’s place in packaging history. HINGED CIGARETTE PACK The hinge-lid hard cigarette pack, created in the 1950s by Desmond Molins, was a major step forward for the tobacco industry as previous soft packs were easily damaged. Used in 1954 to relaunch the Marlboro brand, Molins PLC credits the invention with an instantaneous 50-fold increase in sales for owner Philip Morris Interna- tional, though designer Frank Gianninoto’s bold red-and- white labelling redesign may have also had something to do with it. CHANEL NO 5 The synonymous Chanel No 5 bottle has stood the test of time – neither the packaging nor the scent has changed much since the 1920s. Designed to resemble a whisky decanter, creator Coco Chanel envi- sioned the bottle to be one of “exquisite, expensive, delicate glass”, and it instantly became a cultural artefact, celebrated by Andy Warhol in the 1980s. Its popularity hasn’t faltered since – it’s still the world’s best-selling perfume with one bottle sold every 30 seconds. TOBLERONE A seemingly permanent feature of duty-free shopping, the triangular prism-shaped Toblerone box was not actually inspired by the Swiss Alps’ Matterhorn as most would assume. In fact, the company says creator Theodor Tobler modelled the original design 107 years ago on “something sexier” – dancers at the Folies Bergère in Paris who formed a pyramid at the end of a show. KFC BARGAIN BUCKET A simple yet iconic design and a classic crowd-pleaser. The Colonel sold his first KFC Bargain Bucket in the late- 1950s and it has firmly secured its place on the chain’s menu around the globe. Now seen as a collectors’ item and available for sale on eBay, a vintage bucket could now fetch $50. HEART-SHAPED CHOCOLATE BOX The novelty of a heart-shaped chocolate box means it’s still a big seller on Valentine’s Day and instantly recognisable. No matter who the manufacturer is, when people see a red, heart-shaped box, they know what’s inside. TIFFANY BLUE BOX Crowned with a white satin ribbon tied at the counter, the Tiffany Blue Box, as the com- pany says, is an “international symbol of style and sophis- tication”. Almost as coveted as the jewellery inside, the trademarked robin’s egg blue boxes can only be obtained with a purchase from the store or by spending a tidy sum on a second-hand one from eBay of Etsy. PRINGLES Saving the world from crushed crisps, the unmistakable Pringles tube was an ingenious solution created by designer Fred Baur in 1968 and perfectly houses a neat stack of 100 saddle-shaped Pringles, along with a resealable lid that keep your crisps fresh. DESIGN BENJAMIN CHIOU Share this article and infographic on social media via 08 | FUTURE OF PACKAGING 30 / 09 / 2015 | FUTURE OF PACKAGING | 09RACONTEUR | 30 / 09 / 2015
  3. 3. Revolution on the streets as cities go high tech Technology has the potential to turn cities into cost-saving, efficient urban hubs that can protect the environment and improve residents’ quality of life T he days of the traffic warden could soon be numbered. Cit- ies are looking to dispense with the uniformed enforcers who pound the streets looking for ille- gally parked cars, doling out tickets and imposing fines. But careless parkers should not re- joice too soon as there’ll be no parking free for all. Like so many professions, the civic enforcement officers are likely to fall victim to digitisation. Cities are looking at embedding digital sensors into parking spaces that read vehicle number plates and can tell how long an automobile is parked. The data will be collected centrally and parking charges made directly to the driver’s bank ac- count, as will any fines. Parking is just one of many areas set to be transformed by the smart city revolu- tion. City leaders are looking to use the latest technology to save cash and help turn their urban jungles into digital Gar- dens of Eden. From smart parking and intelligent rubbish bins, which alert col- lection vans when they are full, to street lights that only shine when people walk beneath them, cities are going high tech. “There are a few technologies around now that are radically going to change the way we operate in cities,” says Peter Reynolds, chief technology and innova- tion officer for the Future Cities Cata- pult, a body that promotes smart cities in the UK. Mr Reynolds warns that spiraling social care costs from a growing popula- tion of older people and children, along- side deep cuts in funding, mean local authority budgets are coming under in- creasing pressure. Local authorities are seeing their budgets slashed as part of central gov- ernment’s austerity drive, in some cases by up to 40 per cent over the next five years. At the same time, urban popula- tions are exploding; London will have more than a million extra inhabitants in the next 15 years. “What this says to me is that as a socie- ty we have to get much better at how we design and provide our services, and technology is going to have to play a key role in doing that,” says Mr Reynolds As with so many developments in the modern econo- my, data will be the fuel of the smart city engine. A hand- ful of UK cities are grasping the nettle and looking to transform their services. Bristol, Glasgow, London, Manchester and Milton Keynes are all experiment- ing with new ways of running services with the latest technologies. They are using the internet of things, installing sensors across infrastructure to gather information on usage and to help direct operations centrally. A number of cities are experiment- ing with driverless cars, the ultimate in smart city technology. City au- thorities are also collecting data from everything from pedestrian flows, population estimates and energy use, and looking for ways to use the infor- mation to improve services. Key to smart-city thinking is allowing de- velopers to access the centrally collected data about urban activities so they can then turn this into useful appli- cations, whether in transport, healthcare, improved air quality or energy use. Open data will be key for smart cities to thrive. For instance, London Datastore, created by the Greater London Authority, offers 600 datasets on its website and receives some 45,000 unique users a month. It features data on public transport journeys, supplied by Transport for London. This data has helped create the Citymapper smart- SMART CITIES DAVID BENADY Share this article and infographic on social media via dition, there are plans to develop tele- care, where sensors are installed in the homes of elderly and vulnerable people to alert carers to problems. But placing sensors across city in- frastructure and collecting increasing amounts of data about civic activities could create a prying, Orwellian state. Citizens need to be aware of how per- sonal data is collected and encouraged to become informed about the move to smart cities – to keep a watchful eye. New cities across the globe are being built with smart infrastructures, such as the Songdo International Business District in South Korea, constructed on reclaimed land near the capital Seoul. Another is Masdar City in Abu-Dhabi, which is being built as a clean tech hub. A challenge for many UK cities is how to graft or retrofit smart technology on to existing Victorian urban infrastruc- ture. In 2013, Glasgow beat a number of other cities to win £24 million worth of funding from the Technology Strategy Board, now known as Innovate UK, to experiment with smart city initiatives. For instance, it has created the Glasgow Operations Centre, which brings togeth- er city-wide CCTV, traffic management and police intelligence so the authori- ties can respond to a range of incidents across the city. The UK is also building developments from scratch with plans for three new garden cities. The Ebbsfleet Garden City in Kent, with capacity for 15,000 new homes, recently appointed developer Aecom and promises to have smart-city thinking at its heart. As Louise Wyman, Ebbsfleet Devel- opment Corporation’s director of strat- egy, says: “In future in Ebbsfleet, we’ll see a green corridor, a linear park with people cycling and kids walking, maybe outdoor gym equipment. Under the grass and trees there would be high-ca- pacity cables to get data into homes, so they have real-time bus information, so they can see when the next train to Paris leaves and when the bus will be outside the door to take them to that train. “There will be a new sewage system and water supply, and we can have smart meters in people’s homes to see how much water they are using, how to use greywater to flush loos.” Aecom’s director of design, planning and economics Tom Ven- ables believes the key issue for smart cities is integration, bring- ing together different utilities and organ- isations, involved with running the in- frastructure, to share their data. “The most important thing is that it’s all facilitated by one body, with lots of people doing their own thing, but it is important to bring them all togeth- er,” says Mr Venables. He adds: “At the moment, people around the world are struggling to define smart cities. But I think as time goes on, in the next five to ten years, it will just be the norm. Tech is evolving so rapidly, it will be expected that it is in place where you live. At Ebbsfleet this will be there from the start. In five to ten years, it will be the new normal everywhere.” phone app for London, which offers easy-to-use transport information all in one place, from bus timetables to cy- cling and walking times. Meanwhile, Bristol is looking to become a test-bed for smart initiatives and has a high-speed fibre network – a leftover from cabling infrastructure – to power the project. The city wants to link up Bris- tol University’s supercomputer with part- ners, such as technology firm NEC, to in- stall sensors and connectivity across the urban infrastructure. The Bristol is Open project will turn the city into a petri dish for innovation, providing the infrastruc- ture to allow development to flourish. “Rather than someone sitting in the middle of the city pulling levers, it is an open, programmable city,” says Max Wide, strategic director of business change at Bristol City Council. “It is akin to the Apple App Store – we create the infra- structure and create the rules and see what developers can do with it.” An area where Mr Wide says centralis- ing data has brought transformative re- sults is in the city’s scheme to help troubled families. “We bring together in one place data sets from our partners, from the council, education and health. By bringing the information together we can work with families on the edge of getting into dif- ficulties, where the tell-tale signs exist in different agencies. Only when you correlate them does that allow us to work with these families before they get into difficulties,” he says. Mr Wide acknowledges that such ap- proaches are not infallible and says there can be “false positives”. Data gives only general results and may indicate problems where they don’t exist. But the system can indicate those who are potentially facing difficulties. In ad- Citizens need to be aware of how personal data is collected and encouraged to become informed about the move to smart cities – to keep a watchful eye Bristol, Glasgow, London, Manchester and Milton Keynes are all experimenting with new ways of running services with the latest technologies Through geothermal, wind and solar power generation and stor- age, sustainable buildings of the future will be able to manage their own energy demand to cut costs and emissions. Harness- ing connectivity will also drive significant savings, from energy usage to maintenance costs, with power, heating, ventila- tion, air conditioning, lighting, elevators, security, fire detectors and equipment monitoring all hooked up through the internet of things. In an effort to cut operations and maintenance bills, which had reached $300 million a year, the state of Missouri upgraded separate control systems for 32 million square feet of facilities across its real estate portfolio into a shared information manage- ment system, which controls systems for more than 1,000 buildings through a single portal from one location. Making existing infrastructure smarter is a daunting task, but one that is imperative for advancing city networks to the digital age. Modern infra- structure must be resilient yet adaptable to changing condi- tions, with the use of sensors and data management to control the flow of traffic, water, energy and people in the most efficient and cost-ef- fective way possible. London’s mammoth $14.8-bil- lion Crossrail project will expand rail transport capacity by 10 per cent, through a 42km east-west tunnel under the city. High-tech trains, which begin their journeys on Crossrail’s outer branches, will run on existing overground rails, but will have to switch to a different subway signalling system while in motion. With the continued boom in urban energy usage, utility networks across cities must become greener. Integrated energy management systems, from smart grids to smart meters, and big data analytics should result in more efficient homes, new tariff options, more accurate billing for cus- tomers and improved outage restoration. It is estimated that European households could save 10 per cent of their consumption, equal to £30 each year, through smart meters alone. Fujisawa SST (Sustainable Smart Town) on the out- skirts of Tokyo is said to be one of the world’s most advanced eco towns. Each of the 1,000 new houses on the site is equipped with solar panels and an energy storage system, as part of the town’s plan to cut average CO2 emissions by 70 per cent compared with the 1990s. As technology advances, travellers’ expectations of seamless movement and their impatience with outdated systems continue to grow. From smart parking, in which users are sent mobile updates on the nearest available spaces, to the growing avail- ability of grab-and-go cars in some countries, and travel payments via wearable tech, the pace of city life shows no signs of slowing. For those looking for a more comfort- able commute, real-time transport updates to mobile phones can help navigate overcrowding and congestion on busy routes. Barcelona, bestowed with the title of World’s Smartest City 2015, has a city-wide, free-ac- cess, public wi-fi network with 461 access points, and plans to increase the network with 1,520 points across public spaces, parks, buses and metro stations. Increasing urbanisation means more traffic and more pressure on city resources and infrastructure; conges- tion already costs the UK economy £24.5 billion a year in lost production. Intelligent traffic networks, such as real-time monitoring of traffic flow, e-tolling and big data analytics, can help to reduce congestion, cut emissions and improve safety, while at the same time slash commuter times for those who use busy city roads each day. Copenhagen has a Green Wave traffic light system to encourage the use of bikes. The traffic lights favour cyclists over cars and those riding at the optimum speed of 20km/h should be able to ride for miles without ever seeing a red signal. BUILDINGS INFRASTRUCTURE ENERGY MOBILITY TRANSPORT savings in repair costs are being realised when networked buildings enable proactive maintenance 30% Source: Realcomm global annual savings could be made from a viable 60% improvement in infrastructure productivity $1trn Source: McKinsey estimated value of the global smart energy technologies market, including smart grid, by 2020 $220bn Source: Zpryme Research of drivers in cities are looking for a parking space 30% Source: Deutsche Telekom hours of traffic delays a year are incurred on average by city travellers 50 Source: IBM 06 | PUBLIC SECTOR TECHNOLOGY 10 / 11 / 2015 | PUBLIC SECTOR TECHNOLOGY | 07RACONTEUR | 10 / 11 / 2015
  4. 4. BEAUTYECONOMY|03RACONTEUR|27/09/ GREYPOUND CAMILLAKAY A skthebaby-boomergeneration aboutgrowingoldgracefullyand thecollectivereplyis“Nothank you.”This50-plusagegroupare embracinglaterlifewithayouthfulvigour. Ageisbecomingincreasinglyirrelevant, concursRachelClare,associateatinnova- tionagency,BrandGeneticsandco-author ofthereportShe’sStillGotIt.“Typically,a50 yearoldisnowmorelikelytobehavelikea 40yearold,”saysMsClare. Theymayfeeladecadeyounger,butit doesn’tautomaticallyfollowthattheyhave adesiretolooktenyearsyounger.“Not onerespondentinoursurveytalkedabout thedesiretogetridofwrinklesorachieve younger-lookingskin,”revealsImogen Matthews,publisherofOlderWomenin Beauty:TheGoldenOpportunity.“Infact, 63percentofthewomenacceptedwrinkles arepartofgettingolder;only15percent wantedtolookyounger.” Whileanti-ageingpromisesstillresonate withthe45to55agegroup,itholdsless appealwithanolderdemographic.AEuro- monitorsurveyofthe60-plusagegroupre- vealed55percentusedmoisturiserswithout anti-ageingclaims,comparedwith35per centwhousedspecificanti-agers. “Thisisagenerationwhohavelived throughmiraclepromisessothere’srealism aboutwhatcanbeachieved,”saysMsClare. “Theyacceptthechangesthatcomewith ageing;theydon’twanttobattleagainstit. Skincarethatpromisestoreversesignsof ageingisaturn-off.Instead,theywantprod- uctsthatenablethemtolookthebestthey cananddealwiththeirprimaryskincon- cerns,whatevertheirage.” Theproductwish-listincludes hydrating,nourishingformulas tocomfortdrierskinsandre- storeluminosity,andstay-put make-upthat doesn’tsitin thecreases. It’sasim- ilar“en- hancement” preferencefor haircare,with productsthat offershine,volumeandsmoothingbenefits tothinningorcoarsergreyhair.“Theseare thefirstmodern,ageingwomen.Theywant authentic,light-touchcolourthatblends grey,ratherthanmaskingitliketheirmoth- er’sgeneration,”saysJoshWood,creator ofMarks&Spencer’sGuardianofColour range.“They’realsoincreasinglyembracing greyhairasafashionaccessoryoropting foryouthfuldarkerrootsandlighterends.” ThinkMadonna,57,ortheage-defyingElle McPherson,51. With“beautyatanyage”thenewbuz- zwords,theindustryisfinallyreachingfor theopportunitiesthisconsumerdemo- graphicoffers.Nodoubtthey’venoticedthe numbers.By2020theover-50swillmakeup 50percentofthepopulationandcontrol almost80percentoftheUK’swealthwith higherthanaveragedisposableincome,ac- cordingtotheOfficeforNationalStatistics. They’realsoavidbeautyusers,saysMs Matthews.“Ourresearchshowedthat75 percentofwomenaged55to64usefacial skincaredaily,onlydroppingto60percent intheover-65s.Theyspentanestimated £2.1billiononmake-up,skincareandtoi- letriesin2013,accountingfor45percent ofthetotalmarketspend.”Andunliketheir SILVERFOXES’GREYGROOMING “Weareseeingatransformationof howmasculinityisdefined,”says OctavioValdes,vicepresidentofthe Men’sSkincareGroupatEstéeLauder Companies.“Accordingtothe2013 TNSTheModern,ModularManGlobal Initiative,65percentofmeninthe UKsaidtherewasnothingwrongwith spendingtimeinthebathroomto makesurethey’relookinggood.” Sohowdoesthisplayoutin the55-plusdemographic?Mintel researchshowsthisgenerationare lessinclinedtogroomdaily,but43 percentoftheover-65sfeltitwas importanttomakeaneffortwhen goingout.Andthere’sgrowthinthis sectorasNiveaMenattribute40per centoftheirsalestothe55-plusage group,increasingyearonyear. DeborahGayle,managingdirector ofTheRefinerymen’ssalon,isalso witnessinggrowth.“We’reseeing moremenseekingoutgroomingand skincareforthefirsttimeintheir 50s,”shesays,attributingthispartly tofemalepressure.“Womenare increasinglylookingafterthemselves intolaterlifeandexpectthesameof theirmen.” Withthedivorcerateincreasing amongthe60-plusgeneration, there’smoreofanimpetustolook good.There’salsoarequirement tosmartenupprofessionally.“Ina competitivejobmarketwithyounger candidates,alevelofgroomingis seenasapre-requisite,”addsMs Gayle.Shealsopointstothe“George Clooneyeffect”ofolderfacesinad- vertisingthatmaturemencanrelate to,suchasactorHughLaurie,56,for L’OréalParisMenExpert. Whilemoremenarecomingtothe groomingmarket,they’relesssophis- ticatedthantheiryoungerrivals.“The youngerconsumerisexperimental andispurchasingproductssuchasan- ti-blemishBBcreams,eyecreams,and sonicbrushes,”saysMrValdes.Thiscan leavethemarketpronetotrend-related salesfluctuations.Notethedecline inshavingproductssalesduetothe hipstertrendforfacialhair. Incontrast,theoldermarketprefers simplicitywithMintelresearchshowing 67percentofmenover65wantabasic routine.Thisdesireforsimplicityiswell cateredforbyhigh-profilebrandssuch asClinique,NiveaMen,DoveMen+Care andL’OréalParisMenExpert,which offermulti-functionproductssuchas face/bodywashandexfoliators,post- shavecareandhydrators,andmoisturis- erswithanti-ageingbenefits. Yetunlikethefemaleoryounger malemarketveryfewproductsare targetedspecificallyatthe50-plus demographic.Withthemalepopu- lationoftheUKpredictedbyMintel togrowbymorethan4percentby 2019,andtheover-65saccountingfor 10.5percentofthegrowth,there’s increasingopportunityforbrandsto targetthesilverfoxesofthefuture.Sharethisarticleandinfographicon Theirbiggestannoyancewas beingpatronisedbymid-life marketerswhoarethesame ageastheirchildren brand-loyalparents,theyseekoutinnova- tionandnewproducts. Brandsembracing“agelessbeauty”in- cludeLancôme,whichlaunchedtheirAd- vancedGénifiqueserumwitha#loveyourage campaign,encouragingwomenofallgener- ationstouploadpicturesandcelebratetheir skin.SpaceNK’scurrent,highly-aspiration- alTimelessBeautycampaignfeaturestwo models30yearsapart.“Thecampaignwas promptedbytherecognitionthatthisolder demographicrepresentahighproportionof ourcustomers,”saysJessicaPerfect,headof buyingatSpaceNK. “Itwasalsoaresultofwitnessingtheevo- lutionawayfromthepotentiallyalienating anti-ageingterminologytoanewlexicon thatfocusesonfeelinggood,andlookingra- diantandhealthy.” Shepointstotheriseofnichebrands,such asnewskincarelineVENeffectcreatedby sistersRebeccaandCecilBooth,oneahor- monespecialist,theotherabeautyindustry expert.Itemploys100percentnaturalphy- toestrogenstoaddresshormonalskinchang- esandrestoretheskin’syouthfulglowof vitality,knownastheVenusEffect. SpaceNK’scampaignisoneofanin- creasingnumberfeaturingmature faces.RecentNarsmake-upcam- paignsstared68-year-oldCharlotte RamplingandTildaSwinton,55. Yettheultimate50-pluspin-upit seemsisHelenMirren,60,appointed asthefaceoftheL’OréalParisAgePerfect range,afterrankingthemostappealing ina9,000-strongsurveybythebrand.Not onlyissheseenasgenuine,intelligentand glamorous,someonewholooksgood,ifnot better,withage,she’salsoperfectlyintune withherpeerssaying:“Iamnotgorgeous andIneverwas,butIwasalwaysOK-looking andI’mkeentostaythatway.” Whilethisincreaseinmaturefacesisap- plauded,there’sstillfrustrationattheway thisdemographicfeeltheyarereflected.A Mintelsurveyfound37percentofthe50to 68agegroupfeltexcludedinadvertising, with46percentsayingtheyfelttheirage groupwasstereotyped.Withmanyproducts targetedatthisagegroupstilladvertisedby 20yearolds,there’salingeringcynicismit’s amarketingstunt,ratherthanaconcerted efforttoengage. Thereisalsoasenseoffrustrationatbeing categorisedintoasingle“old”groupassoon asyouhit50.“Skinconcernsandlife- styleneedschangebetween50 and80,andtheydon’tfeelthis isadequatelyreflected,”saysMs Clare.“Yettheirbiggestannoyance wasbeingpatronisedbymid-life marketerswhoarethesameageas theirchildren.Theygrewupthrough the1960ssotheyprizeyouth.Manyof ourrespondentsreadGrazia.Theywantto knowwhatthe20-somethingsareuptoand bespokentointhesameway.” Anotherstereotypethebeautyindustry fallsintoisportrayingthisgroupastech- nologicallyilliterate,yetinrealitythey’re embracingdigitallife.“Thanksinparttothe readabilityoftablets,socialmediaamong theover-50shasincreasedby30percentin recentyears,withsomeretailersseeingupto 200percentincreaseinsalesfortheover- 50s,partlydrivenbyonlinepurchases,”says ChristianEckleyofMyMarketInsight. They’renotonlyshoppingforbeauty online,butalsoresearchingproductsand recommendations.ThetwomillionYou- Tubehitsformake-upartistLisaEldridge’s maturemake-uptutorialsclearlydemon- stratestheappetite,asdoestheincreasing numberofmaturevlogs. BeautyjournalistandfounderofThe BeautyKnowItAllvlogfor“grown-up” women,NadineBaggott,explains:“Atauni- versityreunion,Ilookedaroundatallthese successful50-pluswomen,attheheightof theircareers,earningafortuneandreal- isedthebeautyindustrywasn’tspeakingto them.Yetthey’dneverbeenmoreinneed ofadvice.Theywantedtoknowwhatworks andhowtospendtheirmoney.” Itbegsthequestionwhyhasittakenso longfortheindustrytorespondtothispow- erfuldemographic?Itmaybeacaseoffin- gersburntwithfailedattemptstoconnect withthisaudience,saysMsClare.“Weneed toengagewithandunderstandthisdemo- graphicforthehighlysophisticatedcon- sumerstheyare.Theytravelfrequentlyso appreciateeasy-to-open-and-decantpack- aging.Theywantlargerfontsizes,butnot attheexpenseofdesign.They’veinvestedin theirhomessotheywantitlookgoodinthe bathroom.They’dalsoappreciateage-ap- propriateconsultantswhoreallyunderstand theirskinanditsneeds,”shesays. RoisinDonnelly,Proctor&Gamble’sUK marketingdirector,concedes:“It’sourrole toencouragewomentocelebratetheirage andwehaven’talwaysgotthisrightinthe past.Akeyfindinginourresearchisthat50- pluswomendon’twanttobeaddressedany differentlyfromtheiryoungercounterparts. Theyvaluehonesty,simplicity,qualityand thesensorialpleasureofusingaproduct,so we’llbefocusinginontheseaspects.With Olay,we’relookingintofuturecommuni- cationsthatwillexplorewhyeveryyearis anopportunitytodefyageandachievethe ultimatebeautyvictory–whennobodycan guesshowoldyouare.” Itsoundslikethisgeneration’sultimate wishmaysoonbeareality. Fiftyyearsyoung–andspending Thepowerfulandpositivedesireoftheexpanding50-plusdemographictolookgoodatanyageisforcingthebeautyindustrytolistenandrespond £8.38bn|-0.1% ComponentsoftheUKcosmetics marketandyear-on-yearchange from2013 TALCUM POWDER £16.71m -0.6% HOMEPERMS £1.28m -3.1% SETTINGLOTIONS/MOUSSES £24.69m -3.1% HAIR CREAMS/W AXES/GELS £90.54m +9.2% HAIR/SETTING SPRAYS £169.82m -2.8% HAIR COLOURANTS £286.33m -4.8% CONDITIONERS £296.01m +1.8% SALONS £404.61m 0% SHAMPOO £462.68m +2.4% FOOT PREPARATIONS £24.39m DEPILATORIES £49.89m -2.5% SHAVING SOAPS £76.18m -4.9% TOILET SOAP £87.83m -1.8 % BATH ADDITIVES £104.4 6m -2.5% LIQUID SOAP £163.78m +5.0% MOUTHWASHES £183.34m -0.8% SHOWER/BODYWASH £333.37m +0.8% TOOTHPASTE £473.59m +4.2% DEODORANTS £594.83m +0.1% FINEMALE £416.03m -0.3% MASSFEMALE £79.82m -7.6% MASSMALE £64.22m -7.2% FINEUNISEX £25.99m +0.6% M ASS UNISEX £2.45m +11.6 % FACE £529.35m 1.1% FACECARENON-MEDICATED£735.16m +2.3% EYES £381.93m +2.8% PRESTIGESKINCAREINCLUDINGGIFTPACKS £465.93m -2.4% NAILS £219.93m +1.6% SUN PREPARATIONS £234.0 6m -4.5% LIPS £202.28m +1.0% BO DY CREAM S/LOTIO NS £162.71m -2.0 % GIFTPACKS £28.07m +11.3% FACE CARE MEDICATED £78.9 8m +1.9 FACE CARE MALE £60.43m 0% LIPSALVES £58.86m BABY CARE PRODUCTS £16.48m -6.8% FINEFEMALE £729.96m -2.3% FRAGRANCES,INCLUDI NG COLOUR COSMETICS TOILETRIE S GIFTPACKS H AIRCARE SKINCAR E £1.318bn|-2.2% £1.362bn | +1% £2.108bn|+0.9 % £1.73 6bn |+0.2% £1.857bn |-0. 6% SPENDINGONTOILETRIES/ COSMETICSINYEARENDED AUGUST16,2015BYAGEGROUP WHEREUKWOMENBUYBEAUTYPRODUCTS SECTORSHAREBYCATEOGORY VALUEANDUNITS AVERAGEANNUALSPENDBYUKWOMENONBEAUTY PRODUCTSBYAGEGROUP Colourcosmetics Skincare Fragrances Source:Euromonitor2014 Source:Euromonitor Source:CTPA2014Source:Escentual2015 Toiletries Toiletries 19-24 £1,600 25-3435-4445-5455-64 41%13%8%7%31% 22%21%12%10%35% 20%23%20%19%18% Haircare HaircareSkincare SkincareColour cosmetics Colour cosmetics Fragrances Fragrances PharmaciesDepartmentstoresBeautyspecialistsInternetOther 15.7%9%25.2% 2.3% 16.2%16.1% 20.7%52.6% 22.2%20% VALUEUNITS£1,759 -12% £2,045 -5% £2,183 +1.2% £2,238 +4.1% £2,190 +4.9% £2,400 £2,200 £2,000 £1,800 MOSTPOPULARCOSMETICSBRANDSFORUKWOMEN, BYPOPULARITY MAKE-UPOFUKBEAUTY 1 2 3 4 5 52% 43% 37% 25% 24% 6 7 8 9 10 19% 18% 16% 16% 15% Source:InstituteofPractitioners inAdvertising/Delineo2014 Source:Kantar Worldpanel2015 MOSTFREQUENTLYUSEDBEAUTYPRODUCTSBYTHEOVER-60s Facial moisturisers Body moisturisers Facial cleansers Anti-agers Facemasks 0%30%60% averagespendingonbeauty bywomenbetweentheages of50and70 £43,446 Source:Escentual2015 65+ 18andunder19-24 25-34 35-4455-64 45-54 21.3% 1.8%4.8% 14% 19.1%17.3% 21.8%
  5. 5. VISION|03RACONTEUR|20/09/ 13% Lasereyesurgery 40 60 80 100 EYETESTS LILIANANEKWE I tisrecommendedthatweallhave aneyetestatleastonceevery twoyears.Butresearchshows that20millionpeopleinthe UKfailtodothisannually.And evenmoreworryingly,onein tenpeopleadmittoneverhav- inghadaneyeexamination, ever,intheirlifetime. OmarHassan,headofprofes- sionalservicesatVisionExpress, comesupagainstthisattitudeall toooften.“Eyesightisoneofthemost importantsenseswehave.Weacquiremost ofourinformationabouttheworldaroundus throughvisualcues.Butmostpeopletakeit forgrantedanddon’tgoforregulareyechecks, particularlypeopleundertheageof30.Most peoplevisitthedentistfarmoreoften,”hesays. “It’sexacerbatedbythefactthatweonly knowwhatwecansee.Mostpeopleprobably don’tknowwhatthey’remissingwhentheir visionisdeteriorating.Iseepeopleallthetime whoaresquintingtoreadorbringingtheir phonerightuptotheirfacetobeabletotext, whoinsisttheireyesightisfine.Ofcourse,it’s not,buttheyjustdon’trealiseit.Theirvision isalreadyaffectingthem,butthey’veadapted andadjustedtodealwithit. “There’snoneedtostruggleonthoughas thesevisionchangescanbedetectedandyou cangetglassesorcontactlensestohelp.You don’thavetoputupwithit.” Ifyoudon’tknowtheextentofaneyetest, orevenifyoudo,it’sstilleasytoneglectour eyes.Problemsaffectingtheeyerarelyhurtor causeproblemsandchangesinoureyesight canbegradualordismissedasanormalpartof ageing,saysMrHassan. “Ourvisionchangesthroughoutlife.The normalphysiologicalchangesinoureyesare inevitable.Butwhenthathappensisopenfor debate;somepeoplesaythatourvisionisal- readystartingtodeclinebythetimewereach 45,”hesays. “Justlikeatoothachecanbeasignaltovisit thedentist,noticingchangesinyoureyesight isasignofapotentialeyeconditionthatneeds detectingthroughaneyetestatastandard highstreetopticianandcorrectionbyaquali- fiedoptometrist.” Aneyetestisapowerfulweaponinthear- mourytofightillnessandmaintaingeneral wellbeing,aswellaseyehealth.Inadditionto detectingcommoneyeconditionsandchang- esinvision,givingtheopportunitytocorrect WHATEYETESTSCANTELLYOUABOUTYOURWELLBEING Sharethisarticleandinfographicon Inadditiontodetecting commoneyeconditions andchangesinvision,an eyetestcanspotsignsof moreseriousunderlying healthproblems,including diabetes,highblood pressureandeyecancers anysightloss,aneyetestcanspotsignsofmore seriousunderlyinghealthproblems,including diabetes,highbloodpressureandeyecancers. Aneyeexaminationatahighstreetopti- ciansshouldincludeatestofvisualacuityor readinglettersofvarioussizesfromachart. Inaddition,thereshouldbeanassessment ofyoureyepower,nearorfar-sightedness, balancedeyesight,avisualfieldcheckfor “blindspots”and,ifnecessary,anoptome- tristcanissueyouwithaprescriptionwhich canbeusedtopurchasespectaclesorin preparationforacontactlenstrial. Butthere’smoretoatestthanmeetstheeye. Intheeyehealthassessment,anoptometristwill conductacarefulinspectionfromthefrontto thebacksurfaceoftheeyes,usinganinstrument calledanophthalmoscopeorVolkLens.With thispieceofequipmenttheoptometristcan detectindicatorsofconditions,suchasdiabetes orhighbloodpressure,byobservingchanges tothefinebloodvesselswithintheeyes.Other commoneyeconditions,suchascataractand maculardegeneration,canalsobedetected. Atestofthepressureinsidetheeyecan detectglaucoma,aconditionwhichcan affectsight,usuallyduetoabuild-upofpres- surewithintheeye. Duringacomprehensiveeyetestanoptom- etristwillusuallyuseaninstrumentcalled atonometertomeasurethepressureinside youreyes,knownasintraocularpressure.A puffofairisdirectedintotheeye,measuring intraocularpressurebasedontheeye’sresist- ancetotheair.Itonlytakesacoupleofsec- ondstoperform,there’snocontactwiththe eyeitself,anditcangivevaluableinformation aboutthehealthofyoureyeandanyindica- torsofmoreseriouseyeconditions.Caught early,thesecanbecorrectedandtreated. Afurthertestavailableatsomehighstreet opticiansiscalleddigitalretinalphotography, whichusesaspecialcameratotakeaphoto- graphoftheinsideofyoureyes.Thepicture isadetailedimageofyourfundus–theback ofyoureye–enablingyoutoseewhatthe optometristsees.Aswellasrecordingaper- manentdigitalphotographicreferenceof youreyehealthforfuturecomparisonatsub- sequenteyetests,thiscanrevealalotabout youreyesight,youroverallwellbeingandcan evenflagupunderlyinghealthconditions. Infact,therearemorethan100different waysanoptometristcanassesshowyour eyesareworkingduringaneyetest,inaddi- tiontoaskingquestionsaboutyourgeneral healthandlifestyle. Yet,despiteallthetechnologyandeyecare solutionsavailable,peoplecanbestoicalin perseveringwiththeirvisionloss,whichMr Hassansayscanmakeproblemsevenworse asearlydetectioncanmaketreatmentand managementeasier. “Ourcustomersdon’ttendtocomeinaday ortwoafternoticingaproblem,butoneortwo yearslater,”hesays.“Theyhavebeenstrug- glingallthattime,becausevisionchangesare encroaching.Losingvisionmightbethefirst sign.Whenpeoplestarttonoticeiswhenitaf- fectstheirdailylives–driving,reading,using thecomputeratworkandsoon.Theearlierit’s identifiedtheeasieritistoresolveormanage.” MrHassansayseveryoneshouldexercise theirrighttoaneyetest;formanypeople, includingpeopleagedover60,atestisfree. It’simportanttoknowwhattoexpectand thereareguidelineslaiddownbytheCollege ofOptometristswhichsetoutwhatshouldbe includedinaneyehealthassessment. Everyopticianshouldtakeadetailedhis- tory,askaboutanysymptomsyoumightbe having,yourmedicalandeye-relatedhisto- ry,andyourdailylifestyle.Theyshouldalso measureyourvisionandvisualbalance,and lookatthebackofyoureyetospotother healthproblems.Anoptometristwillbeable toreferyoutoanophthalmologistoraspe- cialisteyehospitaliftheynoticeanyabnor- malities,suchasglaucoma,cataracts,trauma totheeyeordryeyedisease. Ifyou’reoneofthe10percentofpeoplewho hasneverhadaneyetest,it’sstillnottoolate toincludeitaspartofaregular,overallhealth check.AsMrHassanconcludes:“Thefunda- mentalthingistoremembertogoandseean opticianatleasteverytwoyears.” It’sfarmorethanjustaneyetest Athorougheyetestatregularintervalscannotonlycheckyoureyesight,itcandetectsignsofseriousillnessincludingdiabetesandhighbloodpressure 1HYPERTENSIONANDRISK OFSTROKE2MACULARDEGENERATION3GLAUCOMA4ALZHEIMER’SDISEASE5EYECANCER Astrokeisabrainattackwhichhappens whenthebloodsupplytothebrainis restricted.Highbloodpressureisoneof thebiggestriskfactorsforstrokeand contributestomorethanhalfofallstrokes intheUK.Duringaneyetestanoptometrist looksatthesmallbloodvesselsintheback ofyoureye,tocheckforanydamagecaused byhighbloodpressure.DrDaleWebb,direc- torofresearchandinformationattheStroke Association,says:“Anyonewithconcerns abouttheireyehealthshouldhaveachat withtheiroptometrist.” Age-relatedmaculardegeneration(AMD) istheUK’sleadingcauseofsightloss.It’s causedbydamagetothemacular,part oftheretinaatthebackoftheeyethatis denselypackedwithlight-detectingcells. HighstreetopticianscancheckforAMDas partofaneyetest.Somemayusephotogra- phyorotherimagingtodetectearlysigns.If diagnosed,youmaybereferredtoahospital toseeaneyespecialisttoconfirmthediag- nosis,andreceivesupportandtreatment. Lookingatthebackoftheeyereveals whetherornotyouropticnerveiswithin normalparameters.Anysubtlechanges indicativeofglaucomacanbemonitoredby anoptometristorreferredtoanophthalmol- ogistfortreatment.Thereareavarietyofdi- agnostictoolswhichcanhelpspotwhether ornotyouhaveglaucoma,evenbeforeany symptomsdevelop.However,notalltests areusedduringahighstreeteyetest,soask youroptometristwhichtestisavailable. Asubstantialbodyofevidencealready suggeststhatchangestothetree-shaped patternsofveinsandarteriesintheeye canbelinkedtoanumberofdiseases,such asstrokeandcardiovasculardisease.Now researchersattheUniversityofDundee areleadinga£1.13-millionprojecttohelp establishifaneyetestcanbeusedtoreveal theearlystagesofAlzheimer’sdisease. Thethree-yearstudyisusingspecially developedcomputersoftwarewhichanal- yseshigh-definitionimagesoftheeyeto establishwhethersuchchangescanactas anearlyindicatorofAlzheimer’s. Thereisnonationalscreeningprogramme intheUKforeyecancerasthesecancers arenotcommonandtherearenospecific screeningtests.However,cancerousgrowths canoccurinsidetheeyeasinanyother partofthebody.CancerResearchUKsays regulareyetestscanprovidethemeansto spotsignsofeyecancerearly.Bylooking insidetheeye,anoptometristisabletosee anygrowth,andmakeanurgentreferral toaspecialistforfurtherinvestigationand treatment.Earlydetectioncanimprovethe chancesofsuccessfultreatment. ofadultshaveneverhad aneyeexamination 10% Source:EyecareTrust peopleare forecasttobe livingwithsight lossby2050 4m Source:RNIB costtothe economyfrom sightloss £6.5bn Source:RNIB peopleaged65- 84arelivingwith sightloss 1.43m Source:RNIB peopleare registeredasblind orpartiallysighted 360k Source:AccessEconomics adultsagedover 60arelivingwitha cataract 570k Source:PublicHealth ActionSupportTeam ofparentssaid theirchildrenhave neverhadaneye test 25% Source:College ofOptometrists olderpeople arelivingwith late-stageage- relatedmacular degeneration 500k Source:RNIB olderpeople arelivingwith glaucoma,either detectedor undetected 300k Source:EpiVision/RNIB ofpeople wearglasses 69% Source:College ofOptometrists wearcontact lenses 13% Source:College ofOptometrists childrenhavean undetectedproblem withtheirvision 1/5 Source:EyecareTrust peoplearelivingwithsightloss,equal tonearlytwomillion 1/30 Source:RoyalNational InstituteofBlindPeople(RNIB) peopleaged75andover arelivingwithsightloss 1/5 Source:RNIB failtohaveregular sighttests 20m Source:EyecareTrust admittohaving problemswiththeir vision 85% Source:EyecareTrust Eatrightforgood sight Nutrientsfoundinmanyfruit andvegetablesandfattyacids canhelpprotectyoursight Quitsmoking Smokersareuptofour timesmorelikelytodevelop maculardegeneration–the UK’sleadingcauseofsight loss–thannon-smokers Watchyourweight Damagetobloodvesselsin theeyecausedbyexcessbody weighthasbeenlinkedtothe onsetofglaucoma Coverup Cumulativeexposuretothe sun’sUVlightincreasesyour riskofdevelopingcataracts andmaculardegeneration Bescreensmart Avoideyestrainbyusing the20-20-20rule,especially ifyou’reusingacomputer forlong Gettested Getyoureyescheckedevery twoyearsevenifyouthink yourvisionisperfect.Early detectionisvitaltoprevent avoidablesightloss FOODSRECOMMENDEDFORHEALTHYEYESWHEREUKADULTSWOULDTURNIF THEYHADANEYEPROBLEM CORRECTINGVISION INTHEUK SIXSTEPSTOHELPKEEPYOUREYES ANDVISIONHEALTHY UKEYEHEALTHCHART AGEOFUKADULTSWHOVALUE THEIRSIGHTHIGHLY Source:VisionMatters Source:VisionMattersSource:CollegeofOptometrists Source: Collegeof Optometrists Leafygreens suchaskale andspinach Brightlycolouredfruit andvegsuchascorn, carrots,orangesweet peppersandoranges Oilyfishsuch assalmon,tuna andmackerel BroccoliEggs Optometrist GP Internet Pharmacist/chemist Walk-inclinic Familymember Afriend Don’tknow Noneofthese 13% Contact lenses 25% Noneofthese 69% Glasses 73% 59% 20% 11% 10% 9% 5% 2% 1% 16-19 20-29 30-39 40-49 50-59 60-74 75+ 0 20 Source:CollegeofOptometrists 30% 29% 35% 52% 63% 73% 81%