Fashion Technology Portfolio Pratigya Bhatnagar B.Sc Fashion Technology,Dezyne E'cole College

1. PORTFOLIO PRATIGYA BHATNAGAR B.Sc. FASHION TECHNOLOGY

2. Project report on Women’s Western Wear Submitted to Dezyne E’cole College Towards the partial fulfillment for award of Diploma in Fashion Technology As technical knowledge development of Women’s Wear included with the Bachelor Degree Program of Fashion Technology By PRATIGYA BHATNAGAR Dezyne E’cole College, Ajmer Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer Tel. no. 0145 2624679 www.dezyneecole.com 2014-2017

3. The Project of Ms. Pratigya Bhatnagar has been checked & has been graded as- _______________________________________________________________ Dezyne E’cole College, Civil Lines, Ajmer www.dezyneecole.com Thank You Principal (Seal & Signature)

4. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous value and enabled me to complete this project successfully. I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an opportunity to show my abilities by working on this project on the esteem organization. PRATIGYA BHATNAGAR Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology

5. CONTENTS 1. Fashion as a Person‟s Image 2. Fashion Industry 3. Learning Experience 4. Foundation Design 5. Corel Draw 6. Fashion Illustration 7. Textile Studies 8. Pattern Engineering 9. Measurement Techniques 10. Seams and Hemlines 11. Draping 12. Fabric Manipulation 13. Elements and Principles of Design 14. Tribal Art

6. Fashion as a Person’s Image Fashion is more than wearing good clothes it is about presenting a person’s image in the society, we generally see people accepting fashion due to the peer pressure, image in the society and when a person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we wear.  Protection from cold, rain and snow: - mountain climbers wear high-tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over- exposure.  Physical attention:-many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.  Emotions: - we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re upset.  Religious expression: - orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and Islamic women cover every part of their body except their eyes.  Identification and tradition: - judges wear robes, people in the military wear uniforms, brides wear long white dresses.

7. Fashion Industry Within the sphere of technology industries, design technology is perhaps the fastest growing today. With new technologies emerging rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job opportunities are up for the taking. It is estimated that India will have a shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010- 11, but not all graduates will be employable. Thus bringing the gap between talent and the skills required by the industry is important. Today, only one in every four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence the students should understand the basic requirement of the industry and exhibit that ability.

8. This is what I learnt here at Dezyne E’cole College Creating fashion doesn’t just entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also involves many decisions and myriad techniques, focused on a central idea. Dezyne E’cole’s Fashion Design has made me build a strong foundation in terms of design sense, conceptualisation, independent research, creative application and individual artistic expression. Learning Experience:

9. As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal education in Bachelor Degree of Science in Fashion Technology and industry oriented diploma programme in built with this study. During the course duration of Diploma programme I had an exposure towards practical working in Fashion Design

10. FOUNDATION DESIGN

11. (Primary) Poster Red (Primary) Chrome Yellow (Primary) Cobalt Blue (Secondary) Green Color is one of the most vital tool in the hands of a designer. It is the most perceptible, and hence is central to the success or failure of a designer scheme. It is therefore very important that a designer has the full knowledge and understanding of its tool. COLORIMPACTINDESIGN

12. Variation in cool color BLUE Variation in cool color RED Variation in cool color YELLOW COLORS Warm and Cool Colors

13. The Yellow is a lighter value than the Red The Blue color is a darker value than the Orange The Green is the lighter value than the Brown The Dark Green is equal in the value to the Brown Compare the Blue and Red rectangles to the gray rectangles or either side of each color. Which Gray is equal in value to the color ?It may be helpful to stand at a distance and blur your eyes. If the edge between the two areas disappears, the values are equal COLORS Comparing Value of Colors

14. COLORS Simultaneous Contrast

15. COLORS Gradation

16. COREL DRAW

17. CORELDRAW

18. CORELDRAW

19. CORELDRAW

20. CORELDRAW

21. CORELDRAW

22. ILLUSTRATION

23. COLLARS Bertha Deep Neckline Bertha Tie Bertha-Buster Brown Style Bertha- Knotted Ends Bertha- Yoke Style Bertha-Braid Edge Trim

24. POCKETS Bellow Cargo Style Cargo Front Patch Button Flap Flap Shaped Stitched Kangroo

25. SLEEVES Layered Sleeve Tulip Sleeve Cape Sleeve Puff Sleeve Bushirt Sleeve

26. TEXTILE STUDIES

27. Fabric Studies For any Fashion Designer its very important to study about fabrics and its properties. For designing new age clothes a fashion designer should be aware about fabric finishes like fire repellency, water repellency, aroma fabrics, anti- wrinkled properties of fabric. A small report on fabrics is presented here:

28. Wool Processing

29. Contents  Introduction  Flow chart of wool processing  Shearing  Sorting  Cleaning of wool  Washing & scouring  Carbonising  Drying & oiling  Carding  Gilling & combing  Spinning & weaving  Woolen & worsted yarn

30. Introduction  Wool is an animal fiber.  It is a fiber that forms the covering of sheep .  „MARINO‟ wool is considered the best grade of wool.  Wool has a round shape with scaly surface. It also much natural crimp.

31. Flow Chart of Wool Processing SHEARING SORTING CLEANING OF WOOL WASHING & SCOURING CARBONISING DRYING & OILING CARDING WOOLEN FIBER WORSTED FIBER GILLING & COMBING SPINNING & WEAVING FINAL PRODUCT

32. Shearing  It is the first process.  Sheep is washed in early summer & shearing is done after few weeks later.  Wool (fleece) was clipped by hand from the sheep, machinery not used.

33. Sorting  Breaking up of individual fleece into various qualities, like soft quality, long fleece & coarse fibers.

34. Cleaning of Wool  Wool as it comes from sheep contains impurities such as dirt, grease, dried sweat, seeds & burrs.  Following cleaning procedure are used- • Washing & scouring • Carbonising • Drying & oiling

35. Washing and Scouring  For washing, a series of for connecting tanks are used containing warm soapy water & weak alkali.  Fiber are washed in the first tank and rinsed in others.  By this way, dirt, grease & dried sweat is removed.  Wool is soft & white, when comes out from the last tank.  Dried in humid areas to maintain elasticity & softness.

36. Carbonising  It is an acid bath treatment, to remove burrs, leaves & other vegetable matter.  The wool is immersed into dilute sulphuric acid.  In this way, foreign matter is converted into brittle state.  Then crushed to dust by rollers and shaken out.

37. Drying and Oiling  Wool is now rinsed in clear warm water and spread out on racks for drying, oiling is done to keep the wool soft and elastic.

38. Carding  The fiber of wool will be lying in all directions and are still not in a state for spinning.  These are therefore blended, opened out and converted into gauze like band.  These preparation of wool is called carding.  Removes dirt and foreign matter.  By this, wool fiber tend to lie parallel, which make woolen yarn too smooth.  After the carding, slivers of wool go directly to spinning operation and worsted yarn goes to gilling and combing process after carding operation.

39. Gilling and Combing  In this operation the shorter fibrers from 1 to 4 inches in length (noils) are removed.  The longer fibers (tops) are placed as parallel as possible.  NOILS may be used as fillers  TOPS which are over 4 inches in length, excel in color, feel and strength are used in the production of worsted fabrics such as serge, gabardine and covert.

40. Spinning and Weaving  Wool fibers are then drawn out and twisted into yarn loosely twisted fluffy yarn is made into soft woolen material.  The smoother, tight and evenly twisted yarn is used for weaving worsted.

41. Woollen and Worsted Yarn  There are two types of wool or wool blend fabrics: • Woollens- which are made of carded yarns. • Worsteds- which are made of combed yarns.  A woolen yarn: • More fuzzy • Have more uneven diameter • Has a wide range of fiber length compared to worsted • Is bulkier  A worsted yarn • Smooth with little fuzz • Is more tightly twisted and finer than woolen yarn • Has an even diameter

42. PATTERN ENGINEERING

43. Garment Construction Fashion design runs the garment from eveningwear to sportswear, women’s wear to menswear, and kids wear to knitwear. Garment Construction popularly called as Pattern Engineering has a great importance in the fashion design industry. The companies like Van Heuson, Dockers, Levis, Adidas etc. are all providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern making. A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed. The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on a form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself. The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear

44. Tools & Equipment The flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers, curves, and straight edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools & measuring devices to create a toil pattern on dummy. Measuring Tape Seam Ripper Scissor Measuring TapeDrafting Scales French Curve

45. Grain Line Cutting Line Seam Line Hemline Waist Line or Hip Line Alteration Line Seam Allowance Gathers PatternMakingSymbol Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern :-

46. Onfold Darts Pleat Tuck Balance Mark Zip Placement Bust Point Buttonhole PatternMakingSymbol Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern :-

47. Combine Buttons Button Position Snap Fasteners Single Notches Double Notches Triple Notches Markings to be transferred from the pattern pieces to the fabric for matching to indicate for details PatternMakingSymbol Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern :-

48. Notches :- • Seam allowance • Center Line • Ease $ Gather Control • Dart Legs • Identification of Front & Back • Identification of Joining Parts • Zipper Placement • Facing • Hemline • Waistline • Shoulder Tip • Sleeve Cap Punch / Circle :- • Dart intake • Corners • Buttons / Buttonholes • Trimmings • Pocket placement Jog Seam :- A jog seam is used to indicate a change in the seam allowance. ¼ inch : • All faced areas • Narrow spacing • Extreme curve • Sleeveless armhole ½ inch : • Side seam • Waist line • Center line • Styline 1 inch : • Shoulder 2 inch : • Straight Hemline Notches

49. Number refer to both the front and back wherever indicated: 1. Center Front Neck 2. Center Back Neck 3. Center Front Waist Center Back Waist 4. Bust Points 5. Center Front Bust Level 6. Center Front (Princess) Center Back (Princess) 7. Mid-armhole Front Mid-armhole Back 8. Shoulder Tip 9. Shoulder at Neck 10. Armhole Ridge or Roll Line 11. Plate Screw 12. Armhole Plate Landmarks

50. The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements. Under garment construction we learnt about the measuring techniques on the dress form. That can be seen here:- Different ways of taking measurement :- • Circumference Measurement • Vertical Measurement • Horizontal Measurement Measurements

51. Circumference Measurements

52. Round Bust Measurement Round Waist Measurement Round Abdomen Measurement Size = 34” CircumferenceMeasurements

53. Vertical Measurements

54. VerticalMeasurements Front Length Measurement Shoulder Slope Measurement Full Length Measurement Size = 34”

55. Horizontal Measurements

56. HorizontalMeasurements Across Chest Measurement Abdomen Arc Measurement Across Shoulder Measurement Size = 34”

57. Women’s Basic Bodice Block

58. Women’s Basic Skirt Block

59. Women’s Basic Sleeve Block

60. Dart Manipulation Dart manipulation introduced the slash spread and pivotal transfer pattern making technique to transfer dart excess from one location to another for design variation. It is the beginning of pattern manipulating process for generating design patterns. It requires both artistic and technical skills to mange and control the pattern. PRINCIPLE 1  ONE DART SERIES  TWO DART SERIES A dart may be transferred to any location around the patterns outlines from a designated pivotal point Without affecting the size or fit of a garment. PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness To increase fabric in a garment to an amount greater than that provided by the dart excess of the working pattern. The length and width within the pattern‟s outline must be increased. PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring To fit the contours of the upper torso closer than does the basic garment the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of the body above, below and in between the bust mounds and shoulder blades Side dartCentre front bust dart

61. Single Dart Series Mid Shoulder Dart Mid Armhole Dart

62. SPECIFICATION SHEET

63. Single Dart Bodice Block with A-Line Skirt • Size- 34” • Fabric- Muslin • Finishes  Neck Finish- neck finished with piping  Armhole Finish- armhole finished with facing  Hemline Finish- hemline finished with facing

64. Front View V- Neckline V- Neckline Finished with pipingArmhole finished with facing Hemline finished with facing

65. Back View V- Neckline Finished with pipingArmhole finished with facing Hemline finished with facing

66. Side View French Dart Armhole finished with facing Hemline finished with facing

67. Double Dart Series Mid Armhole and Waist Dart Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart

68. Double Dart Bodice Block with Tulip Skirt and Kimono Sleeve • Size- 34” • Fabric- Muslin • Finishes  Neck Finish- neck finished with facing  Hemline Finish- hemline finished with facing

69. Boat neckline finished with facing and manipulation Centre Front Neck Dart Manipulation on Hemline Hemline finished with facing Front View

70. Flat Fell Seam Flat Fell seam is suitable for tailored, reversible, unlined garments and work clothes in light to medium weight fabrics and light most self finished seams. It is sturdy, durable seam which will with stand heavy wear and frequent laundering. Abutted Seam Abutted seams are suitable for material which don‟t ravel. Usage- Foundation garments & interfacing.

71. Top Seam It is versatile and easy. Top stitch seams are the most popular decorative seam by changing the size, color and kind of the thread. The no and position of top stitch rows and the stitch length you can create an endless variety of decorative seams. Lapped Seam Lap top over bottom, front over back, center over side bodice, armcys over sleeve bands lapped the adjoining sections, collar lapped bodice, bands lap skirt and cuff lap sleeve garment centers lapped right over left at the front and left over right at the back.

72. Welt Seam Suitable for medium – heavy fabrics. Welt seams are particularly attractive tailored at first glance. Welt seam look like top stitch seam. Welt seams are thicker between the seam line and top stitched row and form a definite ridge. Plain Seam Plain seam joints two pieces of fabric together face to face by sewing through both pieces. These seams can be used an woven and knitted fabrics.

73. French Seam These seams are used on light weight woven, sheer and other delicate fabrics. Bound Seam These seams are used in finishing neckline, sleeves, hems and in finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats.

74. SINGLEDARTSERIES Front View Side View Back View French Dart

75. Front View Side View Back View SINGLEDARTSERIES Mid Shoulder Dart

76. Front View Side View Back View SINGLEDARTSERIES Mid Armhole Dart

77. Front View Side View Back View SINGLEDARTSERIES Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart

78. Front View Side View Back View SINGLEDARTSERIES Mid Armhole and Waist Dart

79. Front View Side View Back View SINGLEDARTSERIES Side and Waist Dart

80. TUCKDART Front View Side View Back View

81. Front View Side View Back View PLEATDART

82. Front View Back View RADIATINGDART Neck Radiating Dart

83. Front View Back View Side View PARALLELDART

84. Front View Side View Back View PRINCESSPANEL Mid Shoulder Princess Panel(waist)

85. Front View Side View Back View PRINCESSPANEL Mid Shoulder Princess Panel(torso)

86. Front View Side View Back View PRINCESSPANEL Mid Armhole Princess Panel(torso)

87. Front View Side View Back View Top View DARTCLUSTERS Shoulder Dart Cluster

88. Front View Side View Back View DARTCLUSTERS Waist Dart Cluster

89. Front View Side View Back View GATHERS Gathers at Neck

90. Front View Side View Back View GATHERS Gathers at Princess Line

91. Front View Side View Back View HAULTERNECKLINE

92. For any Fashion Designer fabric first needs to be prepared with textures and then used for style and design development. Style requires plain textures and sometimes textured fabric to be create better style. Presenting few best ideas of textures which I learnt at my study of Fashion Design at Dezyne E‟cole College.

93. FabricManipulation 1

113. ELEMENTS AND PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

114. REGENCY ERA

115.  Empire line dress  What is empire line ?  Fashion in the period 1795-1820  Changes in fashion 1800-1820  21st century inspired by Regency Era Contents

116. The period between 1795-1837 termed as “REGENCY ERA”

117. • The empire line dress named for the Empire of France as Napoleon‟s first Empress Josephine de Beauharnais is attributed with helping to popularize the style in Europe. Empire Line Dress (em-pahy uh-r lahyn)

118. • High waisted just under the bust. • Long, narrow skirt with a slight flare to aid movement. • Low, open neckline. What is Empire Line ?

119. • Between 1795-1820 , women used to wear skirts and jackets as day to day outfit. • Incorporated in this new “NATURAL” style, clothing became much lighter. • Upper class women began wearing cropped dresses as they opposed to dresses with long trains or hoops that restricted them from leaving their homes. Fashion in the Period 1795-1820

120. • WOMEN- Short hairs, lace, sheer classical drapes, raised back waist of high- waisted dresses, dress waistlines began to drop, elaborate hem & necklines decorations. • MEN- Linen shirts with high collars, short hairs, jockey boots. Changes in Fashion 1800-1820

121. • Comfortable, flattering & available in numerous necklines, colors, fabrics, the empire line dress is classic style . • It is constantly being reinvented to meet the changing fashion trends. 21st Century Inspired by Regency Era

122. TRIBAL ART

123. • Line: straight lines • Shapes: triangles and diamonds • Colors: warm, cool colors are used and white background to balance bright. • Line: straight lines and curved lines • Shapes: geometric shapes are used to symbolize human figures. • Colors: warm colors