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Textile Standards and Specifications by Violet Davis-Maurice

At FashionTT's Fashion UPGRADE! Workshop, Violet Davis-Maurice provided great insight into creating garments that meet local and international standards.

Textile Standards and Specifications by Violet Davis-Maurice

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3/17/2016vdm 1
International and local standards
provide the specifications and test
methods for the physical, mechanical,
and chemical properties of textiles, and
the sewn products and clothing made
from these textiles
3/17/2016 2vdm
 The textiles covered by these standards are
commonly formed by weaving or knitting and
the yarns/threads used are also covered by
standards
 Where no local standard applies a
manufacturer attempting to export to a
regional or extra regional market must
comply with the requirements of the
standards that apply in the particular market
they are planning to access.
3/17/2016 3vdm
 These textile standards help fabric and
clothing and sewn products designers and
manufacturers in testing textiles to ensure
acceptable characteristics for appropriate
end-use.
 The standards and specifications are the
criteria to ensure conformity and acceptability
in the contract between buyer and seller.
3/17/2016 4vdm
Element Performance Criteria
Select Sample of Textile Sample of material/product
appropriate is confirmed
Acceptance criteria and end use
for testing of sample is
determined/confirmed
3/17/2016 5vdm
ELEMENT PERFORMANCE CRITERIA
Interpret design brief Requirements of design are
interpreted
Purposes of textile product and
end user are identified
Additional Factors are determined
and applied
Materials for use in design are
determined
Design specifications are
confirmed
Initial design concepts are
interpreted from brief
3/17/2016 6vdm

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Textile Standards and Specifications by Violet Davis-Maurice

  • 2. International and local standards provide the specifications and test methods for the physical, mechanical, and chemical properties of textiles, and the sewn products and clothing made from these textiles 3/17/2016 2vdm
  • 3.  The textiles covered by these standards are commonly formed by weaving or knitting and the yarns/threads used are also covered by standards  Where no local standard applies a manufacturer attempting to export to a regional or extra regional market must comply with the requirements of the standards that apply in the particular market they are planning to access. 3/17/2016 3vdm
  • 4.  These textile standards help fabric and clothing and sewn products designers and manufacturers in testing textiles to ensure acceptable characteristics for appropriate end-use.  The standards and specifications are the criteria to ensure conformity and acceptability in the contract between buyer and seller. 3/17/2016 4vdm
  • 5. Element Performance Criteria Select Sample of Textile Sample of material/product appropriate is confirmed Acceptance criteria and end use for testing of sample is determined/confirmed 3/17/2016 5vdm
  • 6. ELEMENT PERFORMANCE CRITERIA Interpret design brief Requirements of design are interpreted Purposes of textile product and end user are identified Additional Factors are determined and applied Materials for use in design are determined Design specifications are confirmed Initial design concepts are interpreted from brief 3/17/2016 6vdm
  • 7. Garment specifications provide the numerical data and construction instructions needed to make a garment. Primary use of this data occurs during the flat pattern and garment construction stages of the sample garment. The manufacturer will need to have fabric specs and design specs. The design specs may include the size specs, especially since in some designs the sizes of component parts will vary depending on the size of the garment. 3/17/2016 7vdm
  • 8.  The term "size spec" is short for "size specifications".  The size spec document is occasionally referenced to as a spec sheet/s.  This document or file is basically a guide for the manufacturers to follow for garment measurements and sewing techniques. 3/17/2016 8vdm
  • 9.  The file contains garment manufacturing specifications that help the factory produce the garment in accordance with the buyers requirement. 3/17/2016 9vdm
  • 10.  The specifications are intended as a list of instructions for a garment factory to following in order to maintain consistency during the bulk production of clothing and/or fabric accessories 3/17/2016 10vdm
  • 11.  The size spec files may also contain information regarding the garments trim requirements.  The spec sheet will indicate the button sizes, twill tape lengths, zippers, waistband widths, draw cord length etc.  Size specs, may also contain a design sketch to help the factory view a complete rendering of the intended garment.  The file may also include brand label and care label requirements for the product. 3/17/2016 11vdm
  • 12. The size spec document includes points of measurement as well as detailed sewing instructions. For example, the spec file may include a hem measurement as well as indicate the stitching to utilize on the hem. For example, 1" hem, 1/14" cover stitch. This instructs the factory how to create the hem of the garment or article. 3/17/2016 12vdm
  • 13.  The spec sheets help assure a consistent garment fit. A well developed spec package may include a “how to measure” guide.  If it is not included on the spec sheet a separate document providing clear indication of how to manage the point of measure is included  The "how to measure" guide is intended to ensure that the same methods is utilized for all measurement. 3/17/2016 13vdm
  • 14.  Bust / Chest - Lay the garment flat and measure the garment straight across one inch below the armhole. (note: it is important to indicate location below the armhole or from another point so that the person taking the measurement has a specific starting point).  Waist - Relax or extended measure from side to side along the center of the waistband or waist seam. For extended measurements - measure as above with elastic or knit fully extended.  Inseam - lay one entire leg flat measure from the top of the garment to the bottom of the leg following the side seam.  All measurements should be taken with a plastic or fabric tape measure. Generally all measurements are to be taken with the garment laid on a flat surface with all wrinkles gently smoothed out. Measurements should be taken with zippers or buttons fully closed unless otherwise stated 3/17/2016 14vdm
  • 15.  Front Length (From HPS)  Front Length (Nape to Hem)  Neck Width (Edge to Edge)  Chest / Bust (1" Below Armhole)  Across Shoulder Across Front 6" From HPS  Across Back 6" From HPS 3/17/2016 15vdm
  • 17. Fibre Content 60% Polyester 40% Wool Weight 260±5 gm²(min) Fabric Count 60x60 Bursting Strength 267N (60 lbf) min Pilling Resistance 4-5 (min) Abrasion Resistance 4-5 (min) Dimensional Stability (each direction) Pressing and Finishing After 5 washes 3% max shrinkage 3% max growth Colourfastness Laundering Colour Change Staining Class 4 minimum Crocking Dry Wet Class 3- 4 min Perspiration Colour Change Staining 3/17/2016 17vdm
  • 18.  Testing techniques are selected appropriate to analysing sample, acceptance criteria and end use  Relevant test equipment is set up and calibration confirmed  Perform preliminary testing and analysis  Product is tested using selected testing methods, in accordance with industry and enterprise standards  Results are analysed and interpreted and report prepared  Results are checked against original specifications of material/product  Acceptance criteria determined  Decision for acceptance made 3/17/2016 18vdm