1.
Tony Bui
A-Z Profiling of oils and butters
Apricot Kernel oil
INCI name:Prunus armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties:Lightyellow in colour, can be slightlydarker yellow
depending on variety of apricot and method of extraction. It
possesses a nutty aroma to fairly no scent,similar to almond oil.It
is considered a lightoil and is fairly absorbed into the skin well.
Apricot kernel oil can serve as a good emollientas itmay offer
softening,regenerating and moisturizing properties.The high
amountof oleic acid presented in Apricot kernel oil may give anti-
inflammatoryproperties,being an acceptable base oil for all skin
types, particularly sensitive,dry and baby skin.It also contains a
small amountoflinoleic acid which may contribute to support
barrier repair of dry, itchy skin.Vitamin E presented in the oil may
also aid in relieving dryness.
Amaranth oil
INCI name: Amaranthus caudatus (Seed) oil
Shelf life: 9 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Amaranth oil contains squalene,which has the abilityto
deeply penetrate the skin to moisturise and soften it.Along with a
high content of linoleic,palmitic and oleic acid,these fatty acids
help to encourage cell regeneration,reduce inflammation and
itching,as well as reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Amaranth oil also contains phytosterols in the form of avenasterol,
campesterol,B-sitosterol and stigmasterol,which all aid in helping
the skin’s barrier mechanism to recover from physical or
environmental factors.The small amountoftocopherols contributes
to the anti-oxidant properties ofthis oil, as well as may providing
dry skin relief. Amaranth oil is suitable for those who suffer from
dry sensitive skin,with conditions such as psoriasis and eczema.
Almond oil/ Sweet Almond oil
INCI name: Prunus dulcis (Almond) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Lightgold to clear colour, has a sweetnutty scent.It is
fairly a light oil, with an oily feel to it and remains on the skin a little
before absorbing into the skin fairly readily. High in oleic acid,
sweetalmond offers moisturizing,softening,and regenerating
properties,and can act as an anti-inflammatoryingredient.It is
considered compatible for all skin types and is often used as a
base oil in cosmetic products.

2.
Tony Bui
Argan oil
INCI name: Argania spinosa (Kernel) Oil
Shelf life: 9-12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Has a golden to lightyellow appearance with a strong
nutty scent. It is a rather lightweightoil,being able to absorb into
the skin very easily.Possesses a high abundance ofalpha
tocopherol (Vitamin E) and a fair amountofphytosterols,
specificallyschottenol and alpha spinasterol,itmay have some anti-
tumour and cell stimulation effects,which is why argan oil is
desirable in manyanti-ageing formulations.Itmay also help in
reducing inflammation on the skin.It is an excellent oil for mature
and dry skin types.
Avocado oil
INCI name: Persea gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: A medium weightoil,described as rather dull and
yellowish-green to deep green colour,depending on variety of
avocado. It possesses a slightfatty, sweetand nutty scent. Though
being a slightlyheavier oil in comparison to Apricot Kernel oil for
example,it is easilyabsorbed into the skin and hair,though it can
leave a waxy feeling on the skin.Avocado oil may have the ability
to relieve chapped skin caused bythe harsh weather conditions by
softening and conditioning the skin.It contains high amounts of
oleic acid, Vitamins A, D and E along with phytosterols,which may
alleviate itchy and inflamed reddened skin.It is preferable oil for
dry, rough and chapped skin types.
Babbasu oil
INCI name:Orbignya oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil
Shelf life: 18 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 76˚F/24˚C
Properties: Has a white coloured appearance when in solid form,
but turns colourless above room temperature,possessing a similar
appearance and smell to coconutoil. It is considered as a non-
greasyoil, containing very high amounts ofessential fatty acids
alike coconutoil. This oil contains steric and oleic acid which may
help to moisturize dry skin and linoleic acid which can help to
restore the skin’s barrier function. Babbasu oil is suitable for dry
skin types.

3.
Tony Bui
Baobab oil
INCI name: Adansonia digitata (Baobab) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: A thick oil possessing a lightyellow to clear colour.
Considered as a viscous oil with a silkier and drier feel in comparison
to avocado oil, Baobab oil contains phytosterols which can offer anti-
inflammatoryproperties and skin barrier mechanism repair.It also
holds a high amountof squalene which can penetrate the skin
quickly and may offer moisturizing properties,along with some
Vitamins such as Vitamin E and Vitamin A, in the form of Beta
carotene. Baobab oil is suitable for dry, chapped skin.
Black (cumin) seed oil
INCI name: Nigella sativa (Black cumin) seed oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Possessing a distinctive brown-red appearance,it
contains a good amountof linoleic acid which maycontribute to
supporting barrier repair ofdry, itchy and inflamed skin.Its essential
oil composition containing an anti-oxidantcalled thymoquinone,
which has a reputation in possessing anti-bacterial and anti-
inflammatoryproperties.It also contains a selection ofphytosterols
and traces of tocopherols,which mayall contribute to moisturizing
dry skin and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL),as well as
reducing inflammation and itching,combating againstenvironmental
influences. Black seed oil is recommended to those who suffer from
irritated, inflamed and itchy skin.
Blackberry seed oil
INCI name: Rubus fruticosus (Blackcurrant) seed oil
Shelf life: 6-9 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Brightyellow in colour, blackberry seed oil contains high
amounts ofphytosterols which mayhelp to repair the skin barrier and
offer anti-inflammatoryproperties.It also contains a good level of
tocopherols (Vitamin E),which may relieve dry skin and allows the oil
to have a slightlylonger shelflife.Squalene presentin blackberry
seed oil may offer moisturising and softening properties byhaving
the ability to penetrate the skin. High amounts oflinoleic acid present
in this oil may also help to encourage normal barrier function ofthe
skin.Blackberry oil is suitable for oily to acne prone skin.

4.
Tony Bui
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Blackcurrant seedoil
INCI name: Ribes nigrum (Blackcurrant) seed oil
Shelf life: 3 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This oil contains both alpha and y-linolenic acid,along
with a very rare 4-polyunsaturated fatty acid, stearidonic acid.The
latter have strong anti-inflammatoryproperties when externally
applied to the skin,along with containing a high content of linoleic
acid, which contributes to the anti-inflammatoryproperties of
blackcurrantoil and may help with restoring the skin’s barrier,
encouraging itto retain moisture.Blackcurrantseed oil also contains
a small amountofoleic acid, which may help to soften and
moisturize dry sensitive skin. This oil is recommended to those who
have dry mature skin,as well as sensitive and blemished skin.
Blueberry seed oil
INCI name: Vaccinium corymbosum (blueberry) seed oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This odourless oil possesses a very light yellow
appearance with a light feel when applied onto the skin,absorbing
fairly quickly and leaving no greasy after feel. Blueberry seed oil
contains very high amounts ofphytosterols in comparison to
soybean oil, which may behave as anti-inflammatories,help skin
repair after damage,reduce trans epidermal water loss,and offer
moisturizing properties to the skin. This oil also contains specific
polyphenolic compounds such as anthocyanins,which can offer anti-
oxidising properties to the skin.High amounts ofsqualene presentin
this oil may offer moisturising and softening properties which may
help relieve dry and cracked skin. Blueberryoil is suitable for dry
skin types.
Borage oil
INCI name: Borago officinalis (Borage) oil
Shelf life: 3 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Pale yellow in colour with a slightlysweetscent,Borage
oil may help with moisture retention,skin repair and can sooth dry
itchy skin due to the oleic and linoleic acid presentin the oil. It also
contains a high abundance ofgamma-linolenic acid (GLA), which
may also be responsible for helping restore barrier function,reduce
redness and inflamed skin.Borage oil also contains polyphenolic
compounds in the form of ferulic acid, which has powerful anti-
oxidant properties and can help to protect and maintain the skin’s
natural condition.Although this oil has been described to be slightly
oily, it has a rather dry feel when applied to the skin. Borage oil may
be suitable for dry, chapped and inflamed skin.

5.
Tony Bui
Broccoli seed oil
Brazil nut oil
INCI name: Bertholletia excelsa (Brazil nut) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Brazil nut oil is clear yellowish with a pleasantsweet
smell.It is considered as very rich and high nourishing oil due to
being rich in essential fatty acids,mainlyoleic acid,which may help
to moisturize dry skin and reduce inflammation,and linoleic acid
which may restore the skin’s barrier function and reduce trans -
epidermal water loss.Therefore,Brazil nut oil may be beneficial to
particularlydry, cracked skin and mature,aging skin.It also contains
fat soluble vitamin E,which may also aid in relieving dryness ofthe
skin.
Broccoli seed oil
INCI name: Brassica oleracea (Broccoli) Seed Oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Broccoli seed oil carries a golden yellow to brown,to a
dark green colour,with a pungentodour and is considered light,non-
greasyand easilyabsorbed.Broccoli seed oil is much preferred used
in haircare products,due to the high amountof erucic acid imparting
a glossyand silkysheen when applied,comparable to look and feel
of silicones.However,this oil can also benefitthe skin as well,
possessing a fair amountof oleic, linoleic and linolenic acid which in
turn may help to moisturize the skin and restore barrier function. This
oil is suitable for all skin types.
Cupuacu butter
INCI name: Theobroma grandiflorum (Cupuacu) seed butter
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 80-6-91.4F
Properties: Similar to mostbutter,cupuacu butter contains a high
amountof oleic acid,which is responsible for moisturising,softening
and reducing inflammation on the skin.This butter also contains
stearic acid which may offer improved moisturise retention,increased
flexibility of the skin and skin repair.The small amountoftocopherols
may offer anti-oxidant properties and maycontribute to the softening
qualities ofcupuacu butter. Cupuacu butter is recommended to those
who suffer from dry, chapped and eczema prone skin.

6.
Tony Bui
Calendula oil
INCI name: Calendula officinalis
Shelf life: 6-12 months (dependenton carrier oil, from date of
manufacture)
Properties: When its petals are infused into a carrier oil,it imparts
its deep golden colour into the oil.Calendula oil is known for its anti-
inflammatory,anti-septic and possiblywound healing qualities due
to its high contentof conjugated linolenic acid (CLnA). It contains
calendic acid,which acts as an astringentand thus makes the oil a
dry oil. Calendula oil contains tocopherols and carotenoids,which
may offer softening and moisturising properties,as well as anti-
oxidant properties to the skin. It is recommended for skin that
suffers from acne and inflammation thatis prone to redness.
Camellia oil
INCI name: Camellia sinensis
Shelf life: 12-24 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Camellia oil is a light,non-greasyoil that possesses a
clear to golden yellow colour.It contains a high abundance ofoleic
acid, which may offer softening,moisturizing and regenerating
properties.However,the ratio between oleic and linoleic acid of
camellia oil can vary, which in turn, can also affect its shelflife.
Camellia oil also contains a high amountofpolyphenols,in the form
of tannins and catechins,where the catechins offer antibiotic
properties and the tannins gives astringentproperties,making
camellia oil a dry oil.This oil is beneficial to those who have dry
skin.
Castor oil
INCI name: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Castor oil is a very thick, pale coloured oil which has the
ability to penetrate the skin easilyand soften the skin due to its low
molecular weight,despite being a rather greasy oil that can leave a
sticky residue and a dry feel to the skin.It also leaves a shiny
appearance,thus being favoured as a key ingredientin lip
cosmetics.Castor oil contains ricinoleic acid,which acts as a
humectant,giving the oil its softening properties.Furthermore,
ricinoleic aid is considered to have anti-bacterial properties.There
are some traces ofphytosterols in this oil which may offer anti-
inflammatoryand itch reducing properties. This oil is low
comedogenic, non-irritating to the skin and is suitable for very dry
skin types.

7.
Tony Bui
Cherry kernel oil
INCI name:Prunus avium (Sweetcherry) seed oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This lightyellow oil contains a balance of oleic and
linoleic acid,which may reduce inflammation,irritation and redness
of the skin,as well as helping to repair the skin barrier and offer
moisturisation to dry skin.The high levels of phytosterols in the form
of B-sitosterol mayalso contribute to the anti-inflammatoryproperties
of cherry kernel oil. This oil also contains a good amountof
tocopherol (Vitamin E), which may help to moisturise and soften dry
skin.Cherry kernel oil may suitable for normal to dry skin types.
Cocoa butter
INCI name: Theobroma caocao
Shelf life: 2-5 years (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 38C (100F)
Properties: Cocoa butter contains tocopherols thatmayoffer
softening properties to the skin,along with oleic acid that may
provide moisturizing,cell-regenerating and anti-inflammatory
properties.Stearic acid may offer improved moisturise retention,
increased flexibilityof the skin and skin repair.The occlusive nature
of cocoa butter also reduces the amountofwater lostfrom our skin,
which may prevent the skin from dryness.Cocoa butter also contains
polyphenols in the form of catechins,which makes cocoa butter a
little astringent,and procyandins which mayoffer anti-inflammatory
benefits to the skin. This butter is recommended to those who suffer
from very dry, eczema and psoriasis prone skin.
Coconut oil
INCI name: Cocos nucifera
Shelf life: up to 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 76F
Properties: Coconutoil contains polyphenols in the form of caffeic
and ferulic acid,which acts as an anti-oxidantand may have the
ability to reduce damage from induced radiation,and help to protect
and maintain the skin’s natural condition.Ferulic acid mayalso
soften and moisturize the skin which has been affected by
environment’s harsh conditions,and reduce itching and
inflammation.Coconutoil also contains catechins along with lauric
acid, which both have antibiotic and anti-bacterial properties. This oil
is suitable for normal to dry skin types.

8.
Tony Bui
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Cranberry oil
INCI name: Vaccinium macrocarpon (Cranberry) seed oil
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Having a golden yellow to orange appearance,cranberry
oil contains a very high amountof Vitamin E in the form of
tocotrienols and tocopherols which mayrelieve dry skin.It also
contains a range of polyphenols which acts as anti-oxidants,tannins
which possess antI-bacterial and anti-clotting properties,providing
cranberry oil with an astringentfeel.This oil is rich in carotenoids and
beta-carotene,a precursor to Vitamin A, linoleic and oleic acid as well
phytosterols which all play a part in helping with skin regeneration,
repair and offering anti-inflammatory,anti-itching properties. This oil
is suitable for dry, mature skin types.
Elderberry seed oil
INCI name: Sambucus nigra (Elderberry) seed oil
Shelf life: 3 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Elderberryseed oil possesses a greenish-yellow to green
colour with a characteristic-herb aroma.It contains a good amountof
linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid,which acts as an anti-inflammatory
agenton the skin,reducing itchiness and soothing the skin.This oil
also holds phytosterols which mayhelp to protect the skin from harsh
environmental influences,reducing inflammation and irritation.It may
also help to moisturize the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss
(TEWL).Elderberry oil may be suitable for those who suffer from
acne, blemishes and sensitive skin.
Emu oil
INCI name: Emu oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 20-22C
Properties: Emu oil is an odourless white solid atroom temperature
but melts at20-22°C to become a clear golden coloured liquid.It
contains oleic acid which mayoffer softening and moisturising
properties,regenerating skin cells and anti-inflammatorybenefits.
Linoleic acid presented in this oil mayhelp to restore the skin’s
barrier function and reduce trans epidermal water loss.Emu oil also
contains palmitoleic acid,which mayaid in treating damaged skin
due to its anti-microbial properties. Emu oil is suitable for all skin
types.

9.
Tony Bui
Evening primrose oil
Evening primrose oil
INCI name: Oenothera biennis (Evening primrose) oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Golden yellow in colour,evening primrose oil contains a
high amountof linoleic acid which mayhelp to restore the skin’s
barrier function, soothe dry itchy skin and offer anti-inflammatory
properties.It also contains high amounts ofgamma-linolenic acid
(GLA), which may help to restore the skin’s barrier function much
quicker than linoleic acid and reduce trans epidermal water loss
which in turn, increases the skin’s hydration levels.It also contains
oleic acid, which may contribute to some moisturising and softening
properties ofevening primrose oil.This oil contains polyphenols in
the form of catechins,which mayoffer anti-bacterial properties and
therefore makes this oil have a slightdry feel. Gallic acid is also
found in this oil, which may help to aid in the healing process of
burns and wounds. Evening primrose oil is recommended to those
who suffer from oily, acne prone skin.
Grapeseed oil
INCI name: Vitis vinifera (Grapeseed) oil
Shelf life: 3-6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This lightgreen oil contains polyphenols in the form of
tannins and catechins,which can give it a dry feel, similar to
sunflower oil.It also contains phytosterols in the form of
campesterol,B-sitosterol and stigmasterol,which mayall help to
reduce itching,inflammation ofthe skin and help to repair the skin’s
barrier.Grapeseed oil contains a high amountoflinoleic acid,which
may deliver anti-inflammatoryproperties,soothe dryitchy skin and
may contribute to skin barrier repair. This oil is easilyabsorbed into
the skin as it is lightand dry, which may be a good option as a
massage oil and is suitable for all skin types, particularly oily to acne
prone skin.
Hazelnut oil
INCI name: Corylus avellana (Hazelnut) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This oil contains a high amountof oleic acid,which may
offer softening and moisturising properties,regenerating skin cells
and anti-inflammatorybenefits.It also contains a high contentof
Vitamin E, which reduces the rate of rancidity and contributes to
softening and moisturizing the skin.Hazelnut oil is considered a very
dry or astringentoil,as it contains a high amountof polyphenols and
flavonoids in the form of tannins and catechins which can give a dry
feel to the skin.The phytosterols presented in this oil mayaid in
helping the skin’s barrier mechanism to recover from physical and
environmental damage. Hazelnutoil may be beneficial for dry
chapped skin.

10.
Tony Bui
Hemp seedoil
INCI name: Cannabis sativa (Hemp seed) oil
Shelf life: 3-6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties Hemp seed oil contains phytosterols in the form of B-
sitosterol,which mayreduce itching,redness and inflammation of
damaged skin.Italso contains polyphenols in the form of
carotenoids,which maycontribute to the anti-inflammatoryproperties
of hemp seed oil.Rich in linoleic acid,this may help to restore the
skin’s barrier,acting as anti-inflammatoryagentand help to retain
skin’s moisture.However,this oil also contains gamma-linolenic acid
(GLA), which serves as a greater anti-inflammatoryagentand can
increase barrier repair ofthe skin faster than linoleic acid,being ideal
for those who suffer from acne and irritated skin.Hemp seed oil can
produce a dry feel to the skin,similar to hazelnutoil due to the
polyphenols presented in the oil.
Illipe butter
INCI name: Shorea stenoptera (Illipe) butter
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 100-104F
Properties: This butter provides barrier protection for the skin and
good moisturization due to the palmitic and stearic acid content. It
contains oleic acid,which offers softening and moisturising
properties,as well as being an anti-inflammatoryagent.Illipe butter
also contains tocopherols thatcontribute to its softening qualities,
also acting as an anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger for the skin.
The phytosterols in the form of B-stigmasterol and avenasterol may
aid in helping the skin’s barrier mechanism and reduce inflammation
of the skin. Illipe butter maybe beneficial for dry skin types.
Jojoba oil
INCI name: Simmonsia chinensis (Jojoba) oil
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This golden waxester contains oleic acid and tocopherol
(Vitamin E), which is absorbed well into the skin and may offer
moisturizing and softening properties.The stearic acid in jojoba oil
may also offer improved moisture retention,flexibilityof the skin and
skin repair.A unique feature of jojoba oil is that it is considered to be
non-comedogenic,as itis able to form a non-occlusive layer with
sebum,allowing our skin to ‘’breathe’’,which is ideal for helping with
skin problems such as psoriasis,acne and dry skin.Jojoba oil also
contains phytosterols which mayadd to its moisturising and anti-
inflammatoryproperties,as well as polyphenols in the form of tannins
which gives it a drier feel.

11.
Tony Bui
Kokum butter
INCI name: Garcinia indica (Kokum) butter
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 100-104F
Properties: Kokum butter contains a good amountofoleic acid,
which can moisturise,soften the skin and can act as an anti-
inflammatoryagentto irritated skin.Moreover, kokum butter also
contains an equal amountofstearic acid, which contributes to its
moisturising properties as well as supporting the elasticityof the
skin.It is considered as an astringentbutter and thus may have a
drier feel when applied to the skin.This butter maybe suitable for
dry skin types.
Kukui nut oil
INCI name: Aleurites moluccana (Kukui nut) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Kukui nut oil is a non-greasy,clear yellow liquid with little
odour.It contains a good amountof oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids
which may offer great moisturising,skin regenerating and anti-
inflammatoryproperties,supporting the skin’s abilityto repair barrier
damage and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Kukui nut
oil is suitable for normal to dry skin types.
Lanolin
INCI name: Lanolin
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Extracted from sheep’s wool grease,lanolin contains
sterols such as cholesterol,lanesterol and agnesterol,which may
offer moisturising and anti-inflammatoryproperties to the skin.
Lanolin has the ability to create a barrier on your skin to help retain
moisture and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL),being a
good emollientfor those who have dry cracked skin.
Lecithin
INCI name: Lecithin
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Lecithin contains oleic,stearic and linoleic acid,as well
as linolenic acid ifit is soy derived which all has anti-inflammatory,
moisturising and skin barrier repair properties.It also contains
Vitamin B in the form of choline, which can act as a humectantand
draw water to the skin,keeping it hydrated. The ingredientInositol
has similar properties and maydecrease trans-epidermal water
loss.Lecithin is considered to have anti-oxidantproperties,which
may prevent lipolytic rancidity. It Is suitable for normal to dry skin
types.

12.
Tony Bui
Macadamia nut oil
INCI name: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This non-greasy,light to medium weightyellow oil
contains a high amountof oleic acid, which may offer softening and
regenerating properties to the skin.Linoleic acid mayhelp to restore
the skin’s barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss
(TEWL), as well as palmitoleic acid serves as a building block for
the skin that may prevent burns,wounds and infections.
Phytosterols are also presented in this oil,mainlyB-sitosterol,which
may reduce itchiness,redness and irritated skin.It also contains
squalene,which mayhelp to moisturize dry and cracked skin and
aid in cell regeneration.The polyphenols in the form of catechins in
Macadamia nutoil may serve as an anti-oxidant. It is excellent for
dry, mature aged skin types, as well as sensitive and inflamed skin.
Mango butter
INCI name: Mangifera indica (Mango Butter) Seed Oil
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 86-98.6˚F
Properties: Mango butter contains a good amountofstearic acid
that is well absorbed by the skin to increase moisture retention and
flexibility of the skin,as well as oleic acid offers moisturising,
softening and anti-inflammatoryproperties to the skin.It also
contains polyphenols in the form of quercetin and caffeic acid which
both are good anti-oxidants.Mangiferin, a xanthone, is a very
powerful anti-oxidantwith anti-fungal,anti-bacterial,and anti-
inflammatorybenefits.Mango butter also contains tannins,which
add anti-inflammatory,anti-viral, and anti-bacterial benefits to the
butter, making it astringent,whilstgallic acid maypossess healing
qualities to burns and wounds. This butter is ideal for normal to dry
skin types.
Marula oil
INCI name: Sclerocarya birrea (Marula) Oil
Shelf life: 18 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This golden coloured yellow contains a very high
percentage of oleic acid,which is known for its softening,
moisturizing and anti-inflammatoryproperties when applied onto the
skin.It also contains a small amountofstearic acid which is
responsible for increasing the moisture retention within the skin and
in turn, may help with the skin’s flexibility.Palmitic acid provides
reinforcementofthe skin’s barrier function. Marula oil is suitable for
normal to dry skin types.

13.
Tony Bui
Meadowfoam seed oil
INCI name: Limnathes alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil
Shelf life: 1 year (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Meadowfoam seed oil is known for its high stability as it
possesses conjugated linoleic acid molecules,which is found to be
very effective at reducing inflammation,lightening skin and
improving epidermal differentiation.Itmay also provide
regenerating, anti-microbial properties and mayaid in treating dry
skin.This oil also contains polyphenols and phytosterols,which may
help to reduce inflammation and irritation,as well as providing
moisture to dry skin by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
It is described to have a lightfeel to the skin. Meadowfoam seed oil
is suitable for oily to acne prone skin.
Mowrah butter
INCI name: Madhuca longifolia (Mowrah) butter
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 75-82.4F
Properties: This butter offers moisturising,softening,regenerating,
anti-inflammatoryproperties due to the high oleic acid content.
Palmitic acid helps to reinforce the skin’s barrier function and stearic
acid encourages the elasticityof the skin and provides further
protection. Mowrah butter is compatible with very dry skin types.
Murumuru butter
INCI name: Astrocarya murumuru (Murumuru) butter
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 91.4F
Properties: Murumuru butter contains a high amountoflauric acid,
similar to coconutoil,which possesses anti-bacterial properties to
the skin.This butter has a variety of fatty acids,such as oleic,
palmitic,myristic,caprylic, capric, linoleic and stearic acid. Oleic
acid helps to soften and moisturise the skin,palmitic acid helps to
reinforce the skin’s barrier function,myristic acid which helps to
lubricate the skin,caprylic and capric acid which acts as good
emollients bydeeply penetrating the skin to condition it, linoleic acid
delivers anti-inflammatoryproperties to the skin and stearic acid
improves the skin’s elasticity. Murumuru butter is suitable for dry
skin types.

14.
Tony Bui
Olive oil
INCI name: Olea europaea (Olive) fruit oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Olive oil is known to contain one of the highestamounts
of oleic acid, which offers great moisturising,softening and anti-
inflammatoryproperties,absorbing well into the skin.The
unsaponifiable matter ofolive oil possesses greatmaterials such as
squalene,which can penetrate the skin quickly to soften and
moisturise it.It also gives olive oil the characteristic ofallowing the
skin to ‘’breathe’’ as itis listed as having similar characteristics to the
natural sebum found in the skin.The tocopherols in this oil reduce
rancidity and may help to extend the shelflife of other products when
incorporated.The high amounts ofpolyphenols and phytosterols may
help to repair damage skin from harsh environmental exposure and
encourage cell regeneration. Olive oil Is suitable for dry skin types.
Pomegranate seed oil
INCI name: Punica granatum (Pomegranate) seed oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This yellow oil contains a high amountofpunicic acid,
which is a conjugated linolenic acid which benefits the skin by
offering regenerating,anti-inflammatoryand anti-microbial properties.
It may also help with sunburned or chapped skin byencouraging cell
regeneration which in turn, may help with the skin’s elasticity.
Pomegranate seed oil contains polyphenols in the form of gallic acid,
which may help with wound healing,and ellagic acid which mayalso
encourage skin regeneration and help to thicken skin.A high content
of phytosterols are presentin this oil in the form of sitosterol and
stigmasterol,which behave similar to cortisone by reducing redness
and inflammation to help soothe itchy skin. Pomegranate seed oil is
beneficial to those who suffer from oily to acne prone skin.
Poppy oil
INCI name: Papaver somniferum (Poppy) seed oil
Shelf life: 3 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Poppy oil contains a very high amountof linoleic acid,
which provides anti-inflammatoryproperties to the skin,restoring the
skin’s barrier function and reducing transepidermal water loss
(TEWL). There are also traces of oleic, palmitic and stearic acids ,
which may contribute to the restoration of the skin’s barrier function
and provide softening and moisturising properties to the skin. Poppy
oil is effective for those who have oily to acne prone skin,as well as
for dry and sensitive skin.

15.
Tony Bui
Pumpkin seed oil
INCI name: Curcubita pepo (Pumpkin) seed oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: The flavonoids,specificallycarotenoids presentin
Pumpkin seed oil are responsible for its dark colour,which behaves
as a Vitamin A precursor and free radical scavenger.The
phytosterols in the form of B-sitosterol offers anti-inflammatory
properties which mayhelp with soothing dry and itchy skin.Pumpkin
seed oil contains oleic acid which mayoffer softening and
moisturizing properties,along with linoleic acid which mayhelp with
the skin’s barrier repair and reduces transepidermal water loss
(TEWL).The tocopherols offer anti-oxidizing effects as well as
softening properties to the skin. Pumpskin seed oil is suitable for all
skin types, particularlyoily to acne prone skin.
Raspberry seedoil
INCI name: Rubus ideaus (Raspberry) seed oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Raspberryseed oil contains good amounts oflinoleic
and linolenic acid,which both have the ability to reduce
inflammation,encourage skin regeneration and reduce
transepidermal water loss (TEWL).This oil has a high content of
Vitamin E, which acts as an anti-oxidant to increase its shelflife as
well as offering moisturizing and softening properties to the skin.
With high levels of phytosterols,raspberryseed oil maysupportthe
skin’s barrier function to repair itselfand give off anti-inflammatory
properties.Raspberryseed oil also contains polyphenols in the form
of ellagic acid and ellagitannins,which mayregenerate skin cells
and promote thicker skin. It is suitable for all skin types.
Rice bran oil
INCI name: Oryza sativa (Rice bran) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: The unsaponifiables in rice bran oil contain Vitamin E,
Vitamin B and squalene,which mayall provide moisturising and
softening properties to the skin.Rice bran oil also contains a unique
phytosterol called y-oryzanol, containing ferulic acid that possesses
strong anti-oxidantproperties which mayhelp with lightor radiation
induced damage in skin.Ferulic acid is able to penetrate the skin
easily,providing moisturising and softening properties thatmay
reduce itching and inflammation.This oil has a fair amountof oleic
and linoleic acid content, which will both contribute to the
moisturising,softening and anti-inflammatoryproperties thatrice
bran oil own. Rice bran oil is suitable for sensitive and oilyskin
types.

16.
Tony Bui
Rosehip oil
INCI name: Rosa mosqueta (Rosehip) fruitoil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Rosehip oil contains Vitamin C and beta-carotene,which
have anti-oxidant properties and are free radical scavengers.It
contains oleic acid which offer softening and moisturizing properties,
linoleic acid which aids in skin barrier repair and linolenic acid that
provides anti-inflammatoryproperties to the skin.Due to the tannins,
rosehip oil is considered an astringentor non-greasyoil,giving a drier
feel to the skin. Rosehip oil is suitable for dry, mature skin types.
Sacha Inchi oil
INCI name: Plukenetia volubilis (Inca Peanut) oil
Shelf life: 9 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Sacha inchi oil is considered to be light,low-viscous oil
due to its low content of saturated fatty acids,ideal for oily skin types.
It contains a good amountof linoleic acid,which provides anti-
inflammatoryproperties,restores the skin’s repair barrier and reduces
transepidermal water loss (TEWL).There are traces of oleic,palmitic
and stearic acids,which all contribute to providing moisturising,
softening and regenerating properties to sacha inchi oil.Sacha inchi
oil also contains a high content of tocopherols which allows itto be
relatively stable to oxidation, providing anti-oxidant properties.The
phytosterols in the form of stigmasterol,campesterol and avanesterol
may provide anti-inflammatoryproperties to the skin. Sacha inchi oil is
beneficial to those who have dry, mature skin types as well as oily,
inflamed skin.
Safflower oil
INCI name: Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Oil
Shelf life: 6 months from date of manufacture)
Properties: Safflower oil is distinguished byits extremely high content
of linoleic acid,which can restore the skin’s barrier mechanism,
reduces inflammation and transepidermal water loss (TEWL).Traces
of stearic and palmitic acid may help with the elasticityof the skin and
encourage skin regeneration.This oil also contains traces oflecithin
which may contribute to safflower oil’s moisturising and anti-
inflammatoryqualities,as well as containing phytosterols which aid in
restoring the skin’s barrier mechanism,reduce inflammation,itching
and combatagainstharsh environmental influences thatcan damage
the skin. Safflower oil is compatible with normal,oilyand combination
skin types.

17.
Tony Bui
Sal butter
INCI name: Shorea robusta (Sal) butter
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 92-102F
Properties: Its high content of stearic and oleic acid delivers good
moisturising and softening properties to the skin,helping the skin’s
elasticitylevels. Sal butter also contains palmitic acid,which helps
to reinforce the skin’s barrier function,as well as a small amountof
linoleic acid which maybring about anti-inflammatoryproperties and
reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). It is suitable for those
who have dry mature skin.
Sea buckthorn oil
INCI name: Hippophae rhamnoides (Sea buckthorn) oil
Shelf life: 12 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This oil contains oleic acid which helps to moisturise and
soften the skin,linoleic acid which restores the skin’s barrier
function and reduces transepidermal water loss,and palmitoleic
acid which is a building block to prevent burns,wounds and may
help to treat damaged skin.It contains a variety of phytosterols,
particularlystigmasterol and B-sitosterol which behave like
cortisone by reducing redness,itchiness and inflammation on the
skin.The high content of Vitamin E and flavonoids in the form of
carotenoids increases the shelflife of sea buckthorn oil and behave
as free radical scavengers. Sea buckthorn oil is suitable for normal
to sensitive skin types.
Sesame oil
INCI name: Sesamum indicum (Sesame) oil
Shelf life: 9 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This oil contains a good selection offatty acids such as
oleic acid, linoleic acid,palmitic and stearic acid which all contribute
to the moisturising,softening,regenerating and anti-inflammatory
properties ofsesame oil.Sesame oil is also very high in
phytosterols,which is a great assetin combatting skin thathas
encountered harsh weather conditions bysoftening and reducing
inflammation.It also contains a specific polyphenol called lignin,
which exhibit anti-septic and anti-inflammatoryproperties thatmay
be beneficial to those who have oily to acne prone skin.Sesame oil
is considered to be a lightto medium oil with a low comedogenic
rating scale,thus it is suitable as a facial or body oil.

18.
Tony Bui
Shea butter:
INCI name: Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter) fruit
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Melting point: 89-100F
Properties: Shea butter contains a high content of Vitamin E in the form
of tocopherol and tocotrienols thatact as an anti-oxidant, a free radical
scavenger and can moisturise dryskin.It contains atleast8 various
catechin compounds,which are polyphenols and mayoffer anti-
bacterial properties to shea butter. Shea butter also contains allantoin
which helps to temporarilyprevent and protect chapped or cracked skin
by speeding up the natural processes ofthe skin and increasing the
water content. The high percentage of oleic acid and stearic acid is
mainlyresponsible for the moisturising,regenerating and anti-
inflammatoryproperties thatshea butter possesses.This butter also
contains phytosterols in the form of cinnamic acid,which mayact as a
UV protectant and shield the skin from becoming irritated and
reddened.It is beneficial for those who have very dry skin types that
suffer from skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.
Soybean oil
INCI name: Glycine soja (Soybean) oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Soybean oil contains one of the highestlevels of
phytosterols which can help soothe and moisturise skin thathas
encountered harsh environmental influences such as the wind or sun.It
also contains polyphenols,specificallyflavonoids in the form of
genistein or daidzein that act as anti-oxidants to protect the skin against
peroxidative damage.The combination ofoleic,linoleic,palmitic and
linolenic acid delivers moisturising,regenerating,softening and anti-
inflammatoryproperties to the skin,whilst Vitamin E acts as an anti-
oxidant to scavenge free radicals and contributes to skin softening.
Soybean oil is suitable for all skin types.
Squalene (squalene)
INCI name: Squalene (squalene)
Shelf life: 24 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Although being produced mostcommonlyfrom olive, rice
bran, wheatgerm oil and shark’s liver, 12% of squalene is found in the
skin’s sebum,being absorbed fairlyquickly when applied to the skin.It
penetrates the skin readilyand offers softening and moisturizing
properties to skin that is dry or cracked. It may also help to prevent UV
damage,offer cell regenerating properties and maypossess anti-
bacterial qualities. Squalene is recommended for all skin types.

19.
Tony Bui
Sunflower oil
INCI name: Helianthus annus (Sunflower) seed oil
Shelf life: 3 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This lightoil contains a high content of linoleic acid,
which may contribute to supportbarrier repair of dry, itchy skin and
reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).It also contains oleic
acid, which offers moisturising and softening properties,along with a
high abundance ofVitamin E which acts as an anti-oxidant, a free-
radical scavenger and may also help to alleviate dry skin.Sunflower
oil is considered to be non-comedogenic oil,which is suitable to use
as a facial oil for those who have oily to acne prone skin,as well as
a body oil.
Walnut oil
INCI name: Juglans regia (Walnut) seed oil
Shelf life: 3 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Walnutoil is high in linoleic acid,which helps to restore
the skin's barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss
(TEWL). It contains a fair amountof oleic acid, which contributes to
the softening and moisturising properties ofthis oil.It is also
composed ofphytosterols in the form of sitosterol,which reduce
inflammation and itching,as well as moisturising dryskin that have
encountered harsh weather influences.There are traces of stearic
and palmitic acid in walnutoil, which may enhance its moisturising
properties and reinforce the skin’s barrier function. Walnutoil is
suitable for all skin types.
Watermelonseed oil
INCI name: Citrullus lanatus (Watermelon) seed oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: Watermelon seed oil is considered to be a pale yellow,
lightto medium weight,slightlygreasyfeeling oil.It has a high
linoleic acid content,which may help to restore the skin's barrier
function and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL).It also
contains high amounts ofphytosterols,mainlyin the form of
stigmasterol,which offer greatinflammatoryproperties to irritated,
itchy skin and encouraging the skin’s barrier function to repair itself.
Watermelon seed oil has small amounts ofoleic,stearic and palmitic
acid, which all contribute to its moisturising,softening and
regenerating properties.Furthermore,this oil possesses a
compound called lycopene,which is considered to be a powerful
anti-oxidant. Watermelon seed oil is beneficial for those who have
sensitive skin.

20.
Tony Bui
Wheat germ oil
INCI name: Triticum aestivum/Tricium vulgare (Wheatgerm) oil
Shelf life: 6 months (from date of manufacture)
Properties: This oil has one of the highestcontentof Vitamin E, which
can help to prevent other oils as well as it from becoming rancid,while
softening your skin.About 5% of wheatgerm oil is phytosterols,mainly
in the form of B-sitosterol,campesterol which help the skin barrier
mechanisms recover by penetrating into skin,reducing transepidermal
water loss (TEWL),as well as reducing inflammation and itching.It
also contains ferulic acid,a powerful anti-oxidant which may help
repair lightand radiation induced damage bypenetrating into the skin
to soften and moisturize it,as well as soothing inflamed and irritated
skin.The polyphenols in the form of carotenoids contribute to the anti-
oxidant properties,as well as squalene which contributes to the
moisturising and softening properties ofwheatgerm oil. Wheat germ
oil is beneficial for those who suffer from very dry, irritated and
inflamed skin.