Tamborrini P., Remondino C., Marino C

1. DATA, FASHION SYSTEM AND
SYSTEMIC DESIGN APPROACH
An information flow strategy to enhance sustainability
Tamborrini Paolo Marco
Remondino Chiara Lorenza
Marino Cristina

2. The Planetary Boundaries
have already been breached
The Planetary Boundaries
have already been breached
Fashion System and Planetary Boundaries
P
HOSPORUSCYCLE
NITROGENCYCLE
2000 2005
100
2x
2010 2015
110
120
130
140
150
160
17 0
180
190
200
>100bn units
(2015)
World development indicators GP (2017)
~50bn units
(2000)
Clothing utilization
Gross World Product
Clothing sales
Euromonitor International Apparel & Footwear 2016 Edition (volume sales trends 2005–2015); World Bank,
BCG analysis; UN Environment Programme (2012); Rockstrom et al. (2009); Steffen et al. (2015)

3. 1920s1910s1900s1800s1700s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s 2000s 2010s 2020s
Outsourcing production
1938
1950
1959
Nylon fiber
1960
Acrylic fiber
Polyester fiber
1923
ZIP invention
1883
Viscous fiber
1600
1850
Sewing machine
1784
Power loom
Calicò cotton
Lycra fiber Lyocell fiber
PLA fiber
2001
1992
Mass produced
clothing take off
Mechanization of production
and new materials push for
intensive production
Multi Fiber
Arrangements
quotas for global clothing
export
1978
Outsourcing
production
PRODUCTION
RETAIL
RAW MATERIALS
Mechanization of productions
Sales in stores Sales in catalogues Sales in e-commerce
Textile composition mixed Separate production units
Historical analysis

4. 1995
GDO clothing
spread
1999
Fashion shows
become a public
phenomena
1973
ZARA
group
1850
E-commerce
model
2003
1920
Fashion becomes
functional
1947
H&M
group
1960
Textile fiber product
identification act
1960 - World
Hippies
movement
1947
Marshall
Plan
1985
Union label
protest
1843
Rise of sport
as a leisure activity
Born the figure
of the couturier
1964
EPZ: export
processing zones
1960
Textile fiber product
identification act
CONSUMPTION
CULTURAL
EVENTS
POLITICIES
ISTITUTIONS
1920s1910s1900s1800s1700s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s 2000s 2010s 2020s
Haute Couture rise Pret-a-porter rise
Female and child workers
Externalization of production
POP culture
Glocal model of distribution
Consumerism battlePeople stop to make its own clothes
Externalizzation of
Production
Historical analysis

5. Historical analysis
Claims to NIKE
ADIDAS & LEVI’S
Rana Plaza
disaster
ESCAP
Greenpeace
DETOX campaign
1980s Stella McCartney
eco collection
STEPS TO
AWARENESS
ISTITUTIONS
GLOBAL SUSTAINABLE
DEVELOPMENT
1992 - USA
Esprit:
Eco collection
1992 - USA
2016 - Europe
2013 - world
Fashion Duel
initiative
2013 - Italy
Intern. trade center
Ethical fashion initiative
2015 - world
Centre for
sustainable
fashion opening
2008 - England
Fashion Institute of
technology Exhibition
Going Green
2008 - England
2011 - Bangladesh
Whole Earth
Catalogue
Un Conference
On Environment
Develpment
1992 - Brazil
Kyoto Protocol
1997 - Japan
First Earth Day
1970 - USA
1968 - USA
Counter-cultural
fashion movements
Protest for
workers rights
1848 - USA
2000s
1920s1910s1900s1800s1700s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s 2000s 2010s 2020s
start of protest to industry ethical luxury

6. Influence analysis
Calico cotton
Importation
social pressure
to be "on trend”
government
support
of consumerism
exposure to/
accessibilty of
clothing for sale
perceived
obsolescence
of trends
speed of
changing
trends
perception of
clothing
value
clothing
longevity
clothing
disposal
rate
donations to
charity/
second hand
shops
landfill
disposal
standardization
of size
globalization
profit/capital to
expand operations
high throughput
production
planned
obsolescenceeconomies
of scale
cuts to
production
costs
contracting and
middlemen
Pressure on
manufacturers
to reduce cost
labour
prices
Worker
Autonomy
Worker
Condition
price
reduction
costumer
expectation of
low prices
human
desire for
novelty
Need/desire
For New
Clothes
development of
artificial textile
employment
opportunities
Need of
new machinery
international
competition
Relocation
to cheaper
countries
design
restrictions
flexible
specialization
handicraft
decline
child
laubor
quality of
material
finishes
clothing
sales
purchase of
inexpensive
new clothing

7. Consumer
capitalism
Design
integrity
cost
externalizations
pollution
and waste
materialism
&anxiety
speed of
consumption
exploitation
distancing
uncertain
supply
chain
Commoditization
Influence analysis

8. Influence analysis
Disconnected
Linear
Profit oriented
Consumer
capitalism
Design
integrity
cost
externalizations
pollution
and waste
materialism
&anxiety
speed of
consumption
exploitation
distancing
uncertain
supply
chain
Commoditization

9. Current Strategies
Disconnected
Linear
Profit oriented
lack of regulation able to protect
the environment and workers
delay in undertaking systemic
sustainability strategies

10. Interconnection Holystic
Vision
Circular
Approach
Emerging
Qualities
Value of
relations
FASHION AS A SYSTEM

11. Leverage Points
SINGLE
EVENT
PATTERN OF BEHAVIOUR
RELATIONSHIP
Compulsive shopping
Low cost garment
Low quality wardrobe
Looking for convinience
Accumulation of material stuff
Aesthetics > Ethics
Mass production model
Production Relocation
High impact of raw materials
Fashion Company more profit
Consumer Lowest price
MENTAL
MODEL

12. Leverage Points
SINGLE
EVENT
PATTERN OF BEHAVIOUR
RELATIONSHIP
Compulsive shopping
Low cost garment
Low quality wardrobe
Looking for convinience
Accumulation of material stuff
Aesthetics > Ethics
Mass production model
Production Relocation
High impact of raw materials
Fashion Company more profit
Consumer Lowest price
MENTAL
MODEL

13. Leverage Points
SINGLE
EVENT
PATTERN OF BEHAVIOUR
RELATIONSHIP
Compulsive shopping
Low cost garment
Low quality wardrobe
Looking for convinience
Accumulation of material stuff
Aesthetics > Ethics
Mass production model
Production Relocation
High impact of raw materials
Fashion Company more profit
Consumer Lowest price
MENTAL
MODEL
Places to Intervene in a System
5
Numbers (subsidies, taxes, standards)
Material stock and flows
Regulating negative feedback loop
Driving positive feedback loop
The rules of the system
(incentives, constraints)
The power of self-organization
The goals of the system
The mindset paradigm out of which
the goals, rules, and feedback structure arise
Information flows
9
8
7
6
4
3
2
1

14. Systemic management
of information flows
in fashion system
Mapping of information
flows inside the system
Generating new information
flows able to spread:
sustainable information
awareness about processes
slow approach benefits

15. The structure of information flow
can be a useful leverage point in
the fashion system if :
the new flows are supported by incentives
adding to or changing the flow of information between companies in a supply chain
or between retailers, designers and consumers can create significant changes for little effort
1. Meadows, D. (2008) Thinking in Systems. A Primer.
The Sustainability Institute: Chelsea Green Publishing Company
2. Fletcher, K. (2008) Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design
Journeys. London: Earth Scan.
the information is delivered where it was not before, causing people to change behavior.

16. CUSTOMER
JOURNEY
STARTS HERE
USER
EXPERIENCE
STARTS HERE
USER
EXPERIENCE
ENDS HERE
NEED OF
NEW
CLOTHES
DECISION
TO
PURCHASE
ONLINE
RESEARCH
FORCOMPANY
RESEARCH
FORITEM
BROW
SE
DEAL
DECIDE
TO
PURCHASE
ENTER
SHIPPING
INFO
ENTER
PAYMENT
INFO
COMPLETED
PURCHASE
INTERNET
SOCIAL/
INFLUENCER
PROMOTION
REAL
INFLUENCER
SEESHOW
CASE
ENTER
IN
STORE
SELECT
ITEM
ASKTO
SHOP
STAFF
TRY
AGAIN
THE ITEM
IRONING
W
ASHING
DISPOSAL
W
EARING
GO
AT HOME
RESEARCH
GO
TO RETAIL
SHOP
DEPART
FROM
STORE
DISCOVER
THE
COLLECTION
style
price
size
style
Fits with
other item
size
style
Fits with
other item
size
PROCED
W
ITHRETURN
RETURN
SYSTEM
INFO
HAVE
THE
PAYMENT
BACK
DECIDE
TO
RETURN
TOUCHPOINT
COMPANY &
CUSTOMER
DECISION POINT
COMPANY
CUSTOMER
LEGEND
RECEIVE
CONFIRMA-
TION
EMAIL
UNBOX
TRY
THE
ITEM
CONTROL
THAT
FITS
SELECT
ITEM
THAT
FITS
GO
TO
THEPAYDESK
PAYMENT
PACKAGING
RECEIVE
ITEM
TRY THE
ITEM IN
DRESSING
ROOM
DEPART
FROM
STORE
CUSTOMER
JOURNEY
ENDS HERE
CUSTOMER
JOURNEY
ENDS HERE
style
price
size
price
size
style
price
size
DECIDE
TO
PURCHASE

17. CUSTOMER
JOURNEY
STARTS HERE
USER
EXPERIENCE
STARTS HERE
USER
EXPERIENCE
ENDS HERE
NEED OF
NEW
CLOTHES
DECISION
TO
PURCHASE
ONLINE
RESEARCH
FORCOMPANY
RESEARCH
FORITEM
BROW
SE
DEAL
DECIDE
TO
PURCHASE
ENTER
SHIPPING
INFO
ENTER
PAYMENT
INFO
COMPLETED
PURCHASE
INTERNET
SOCIAL/
INFLUENCER
PROMOTION
REAL
INFLUENCER
SEESHOW
CASE
ENTER
IN
STORE
SELECT
ITEM
ASKTO
SHOP
STAFF
TRY
AGAIN
THE ITEM
IRONING
W
ASHING
DISPOSAL
W
EARING
GO
AT HOME
RESEARCH
GO
TO RETAIL
SHOP
DEPART
FROM
STORE
DISCOVER
THE
COLLECTION
style
price
size
style
Fits with
other item
size
style
Fits with
other item
size
PROCED
W
ITHRETURN
RETURN
SYSTEM
INFO
HAVE
THE
PAYMENT
BACK
DECIDE
TO
RETURN
TOUCHPOINT
COMPANY &
CUSTOMER
DECISION POINT
COMPANY
CUSTOMER
LEGEND
RECEIVE
CONFIRMA-
TION
EMAIL
UNBOX
TRY
THE
ITEM
CONTROL
THAT
FITS
SELECT
ITEM
THAT
FITS
GO
TO
THEPAYDESK
PAYMENT
PACKAGING
RECEIVE
ITEM
TRY THE
ITEM IN
DRESSING
ROOM
DEPART
FROM
STORE
CUSTOMER
JOURNEY
ENDS HERE
CUSTOMER
JOURNEY
ENDS HERE
style
price
size
price
size
style
price
size
DECIDE
TO
PURCHASE

18. Data-set
Consumer
wardrobe
experience
raw material producer
pattern of behaviourproduction
Product Territory

19. Predictive trend
analysis
good practices
encourage
Research
Buyi
ngpreferencesWardrobec
ollection
Profile
Consumer
Patternofuseandendoflif
e

20. RAW MATERIALS
producer
FABRIC
producer
manufacturer
YARN
producer
PRODUCT
SUPPLY
CHAIN DATA
ENTERPRISE
DATA
DATA DRIVEN
PRODUCTION
DATA DRIVEN
EXPERIENCE
FASHION
BRAND
RETAILER
PRODUCT
Developer

21. Local resources
Local production
Pattern of behaviour
in a specific territory
Territory

22. BLOCKCHAIN
RFID
NFC TECHNOLOGY

23. Possible outcomes
Consumer
Track of consumer
habits
Decision makin support
during shopping
Good practice post
use encourage
Product/Service
Data Driven production
New service for enhnance
sustainable practice
Sustainable management
of end of use
Production
stakeholder
Decision Making
toolkit
Mapping
local production
Pattern of behaviour
in a specific territory

24. User Name
9 41
Wardrobe
impact
Close
to
Clothes
Pattern of use
between garments
categories
Pattern of use
between single
item
Quantity of use
of single item
Impact of single item
Impact of pattern
of use

25. User Name
Jeans
QUANTITY OF ITEMS
9 41
User Name
Jeans
ITEMS MATCH
SWIPE OR FLICK
9 419 41
User Name
Jeans
19°19°
QUANTITY OF USE
ORDER BY FILTER BY
2
5
10
+20
Quantity of
items
!
2
5
10
+20
Quantity of
use

26. 9 41
User Name
Jeans
PRODUCT IMPACT
Use ImpactProduction Impact
78
items
WATER CHEMICALSENERGY PEOPLE WASTE
9 41
User Name
Jeans
PRODUCT IMPACT
Use ImpactProduction Impact
56
possible
match
WATER CHEMICALSENERGY PEOPLE WASTE
!
Supply chain
impact
Impact during
the use

27. 9 41
User Name
Jeans
PRODUCT CYCLE
User Name
Jeans
25°
9 41
User Name
Jeans
ITEMS MATCHPRODUCT MATCH
Quantity of Use
Temperature
Occasion of Use - Formal
Informal
Occasion of Use : Formal
Temperature: 18°-27°
Quantity of use: 61 Match
PRODUCTION IMPACT
Use
Together
25 times
WATER CHEMICALSENERGY PEOPLE WASTE
!
To reach a sustainable use,
you have to wear it other
90times

28. 9 41
User Name
Jeans
PRODUCT IMPACT FOLLOW THE JOURNEY
User Name
Jeans
Use ImpactProduction Impact
Use
WATER CHEMICALSENERGY PEOPLE WASTE
Show MoreRAW MATERIALS
FOLLOW THE JOURNEY
User Name
Jeans
Show MorePRODUCT
PRODUCT
Maglione di Alpaca
REGISTERED BY
Benetton Group
Treviso, Italy

29. Quantity of Use
Temperature
Occasion of Use - Formal
Informal
!
To reach a sustainable use,
you have to wear it other
90times
User Name
Jeans
PRODUCT CYCLE
Quantity of Use
Temperature
Occasion of Use - Formal
Informal
Occasion of Use : Formal
Temperature: 18°-27°
Quantity of use: 61 Match
!
To reach a sustainable use,
you have to wear it other
90times
PRODUCT CYCLE

30. Interrelation
of information flows
Circularity
of informations
Interaction
based on quality
Relationship
between
stakeholder
Univocal
strategy of
awareness

31. Tamborrini Paolo Marco
paolo.tamborrini@polito.it
chiara.remondino@polito.it
Remondino Chiara Lorenza
cristina.marino@polito.it
Marino Cristina
Helper
in transition