1. Why go?
Because it’s one of the most romantic, gorgeous, unspoilt
stretches of coast in Europe. Where else, less than two
hours’ flight from Britain, can you drive or walk alongside
rugged pink rocks with the teal-coloured Mediterranean
glimmering below, framed by grand, arabesquing pines?
You can, of course, on the Cote d’Azur. But essentially what
you find on the Costa Brava is the same coastline, a little
farther south, generally at a fraction of the price.
Gloriously wild in parts and tastefully manicured in others,
the Costa has some of the finest Blue Flag beaches in
Europe, broad and sandy stretches to elegant horseshoe
bays and secluded smugglers’ coves.
You’ll also find wonderful independent hotels and
exceptional food. Any lingering associations there may be
with egg and chips are well past their sell-by date. Yes,
English menus may still be a fixture in the larger resorts on
the southerly part of the coast, such as Lloret de Mar, but
further north you won’t catch a glimpse of them.
2. In fact this stretch of the coast is a foodie’s paradise and
Catalonia – where the Costa Brava lies – has one of the
highest concentrations of Michelin-starred chefs in Spain,
not to mention superb, locally produced wines. Little wonder
that this has been the holiday spot of choice for well-heeled
Barcelonesas and in-the-know French for years.
The weather is another key factor, and one of the things I
most love about living here. Going for a walk along the
beach on Christmas day in short sleeves without feeling
chilly was a blissful revelation after British winters.
Beyond that there’s art, history and outdoor activities
aplenty. This is Dalí country and three excellent museums –
including the painter’s home at Cadaqués – are devoted to
him. The Costa is also home to some of the most scenic
and important Greco/Roman and Iberian archaeological
sites in Europe.
Alternatively, if you just want to enjoy the spectacular
surroundings, there are exceptional coastal walks and
world-class golf courses, as well as extensive swimming,
diving, snorkelling and sailing.
When to go
A decent dose of sunshine is reasonably guaranteed most
of the year round. If you’re not bound by school holidays
and can visit during May, June or September, these are
brilliant months to enjoy the joint benefits of warm
temperatures and lower hotel rates while avoiding the
crowds of July and August.
Having said that, if you’ve set your heart on perfecting a tan
in sizzling heat, high summer is the time to choose. If you
do come during those peak months, you’ll find the region
busy but not over-run, and you can still enjoy relatively
secluded beaches without having to knock elbows with half
of Europe.
3. From February to April and October to November the
weather is generally pleasant: you might catch springtime
electric storms or autumn rains but these don’t usually last
for many days.
Getting there
Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies from London Luton to Girona
(flight time about two hours), which is the nearest airport to
the prettiest parts of the Costa Brava.
Otherwise, the following airlines fly into Barcelona (about
two hours south of the Costa by car or bus): BA (ba.com),
Iberia (iberia.com), easyJet (easyjet.com), Monarch
(monarch.com.uk) and Air Europa (aireuropa.com).
The bus operator Sarfa (grupsarbus.com) runs regular air-
conditioned coaches from Barcelona Airport to most key
destinations along the Costa Brava, including Begur,
Palafrugell and Pals.
Getting around
If you want to explore, renting a car is the easiest way.
You’ll get a real sense of the landscape and countryside as
well as being able to explore the hilltop villages and smaller
towns.
Hire an open-topped convertible and pretend you’re Cary
Grant or Grace Kelly in To Catch A Thief, breezing along
winding coastal roads with the Mediterranean shimmering
down below. Cars can be hired from Girona and Barcelona
airports through companies such as Europcar
(europcar.com) Hertz (hertz.com), Avis (avis.com), Atesa
(atesa.es).
If, on the other hand, you just want to chill out on a beach
and do some gentle walking, there are good public buses
4. between many of the main towns and beaches. Several of
the hotels I’ve recommended are also either on the beach
or very close to it, so if you’re happy with staying put or
coastal walks, you’ll be absolutely fine without wheels.
Knowbeforeyougo
Flight time: Approximately two hours to Girona or
Barcelona
Currency: Euro
Further reading: en.costabrava.org
Emergency numbers/contacts: Medical, fire and police: 112.
Local police: 092.
British Consulate in Barcelona: Avenida Diagonal 477, 13a
Planta, 08036 Barcelona. Tel: 00 34 902 109356 or 00 34
913 342194; ukinspain.fco.gov.uk/en/
Local laws/etiquette
When it comes to tipping: about five per cent for taxis and
restaurants, €1 for hotel porters. Bars and cafes don’t
normally expect tips unless you’re sitting at an outdoor
terrace, where it’s polite to leave €0.30-€0.50.
Keep your passport with you as some shops quite often ask
to see it if you’re paying by credit card.
If you don’t have one, apply for a European Health
Insurance Card so you’re eligible for state medical
treatment, should you need it.
Low season can be an especially good time to visit the Costa
Brava as the weather is often still sunny and many hotels
have sea view rooms at outrageously low prices. But be
aware that some restaurants close for the winter, particularly
in Cadaqués.
5. EddiFiegelDestination expert
EddiFiegel is a travel and arts journalist and author specialising
in Spain. She has written on Spain and Spanish food and
culture for numerous newspapers and magazines. Whilst living
in Barcelona for several years, she got to know the Costa Brava
extensively and still visits the region regularly
Telegraph Travel