MARCH, APRIL, 2012- N°3ALL YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT PEARLS AND MORE ROBERT WAN IN SHANGHAI ONE PEARL IN A MILLION CHANEL RHYMES WITH «PERLES» A PREMIERE AT HERMÈS PEARL CERTIFICATION, WHY NOT?
The Pearl Tribute We choose for a cover the advertising of the american company Assael to honour a great man and pioneer: Salvador Assael who have left us recently EDITORIAL COVER STORY Natural Beauties Robert Wan...opens flagship store in Shanghai magasine TATLER Shanghai R “With a history spanning over 4000 years and a retinue obert Wan is now present in Shanghai necklaces with deep colors and an incredible luster. of fans that has included Cleopatra, Queen Elizabeth 1 with a showroom and a boutique that invite The selected pieces show a perfect mastery of the art and Coco Chanel, the pearl is arguably our oldest and «20,000 Leagues Under the Sea». The famous «BUND18» of jewelry. The rings are extremely well-balanced, the best loved gem. As a new generation of designers explores shopping center is definitely the best address that Mr. pendants fall perfectly and all together, the jewelry the possibilities of this versatile Jewellery staple, and the Wan could have chosen. Alongside the Peace Hotel is in perfect harmony. Robert Wan admits to being very positive environmental impacts of its culture come to the and the Huangpu river, the famous “Bund 18” is truly pleased with results of his first two years of presence fore, Plaza Watch welcomes the resurgence of a much lo- a fusion of ancient and modern, East and West. Ro- in China. In 2010, the company Robert Wan Tahiti re- ved Icon. “Nothing is more modern than the oldest shapes bert Wan’s boutique is on the building’s first floor. As corded an increase in its turnover by 63% compared of the history of the world (…) For this collection I really soon as you enter, you find yourself in a mysterious to 2009. These results are largely due to the explo- dived with my imagination and I brought pearls back”. oceanic atmosphere. Intrigued by a shielded and monu- sion of the Asian market. In this new boutique, Ro- Karl Lagerfeld speaking after Chanel’s Spring/Summer mental rounded door, fit for a bank vault, which brings bert Wan presents the best of his harvest with prices 2012 catwalk show. That Lagerfeld chose to champion to mind the ocean’s azure blue. You imagine yourself ranging between 4,500 USD and 45,000 USD. He is the pearl is apt given Chanel’s long association with the aboard a submarine, as Captain Nemo; we can’t wait to planning to open multiple stores in China. In the gem. Chanel was riding the crest of a wave that had be- discover what is behind this door... The external display short term, he will open in Beijing, Ningbo city, Zhe- Discovered in a Swiss publication gun with the evolution, during the early 20th century, of cases are two squared showcases, rimmed with brus- jiang Province, and Chengdu in Sichuan, giving his “Plaza Watch” in my hotel room, perliculture –the creation of cultured pearls- which had hed metal. The lenses of these two niches aren’t flat brand a real presence and visibility in China. This new this great article on pearls entitled made them infinitely more accessible to women of more - they are two massive half-sphered globes that create boutique showcasing Robert Wan is a fitting tribute to “Natural Beauties” written by Maria modest means. a zoom effect and accentuates the underwater atmos- this French gem. The company will also continue to Natural or cultured, however, there’s no denying that phere. Thus we see the displayed jewelry magnified. The develop its brand on a worldwide scale, with a special Adams. The article makes a long re- pearls possess a special something that sets them apart presented pieces are a delight to the eye, pear-shaped focus on the Middle East, Europe and Asia this year. ference to the recent Chanel Fashion Nicolas MARTINON from other precious gems. Where the latter lie buried pearl pendants with an exceptional diameter and whose show by Karl Lagerfeld at the Grand deep in the dark, cold earth until their discovery, a pearl’s surface is perfect; gorgeous multi-colored round pearl Palais, in Paris, revamping “Coco’s creation within a living creature imparts to it both per- favorite”: The Pearl. sonality and an almost magical quality. That is becomes more beautiful when worn –the skin’s natural oils en- hance a pearl’s luster- creates a symbiotic bond with its wearer that only adds to its charm…” That says it all… Didier BRODBECK Contact: Nicolas MARTINON Nicolas MARTINON – firstname.lastname@example.org Didier BRODBECK – email@example.com www.the-pearl-tribune.com p.3
PEOPLE IN PEARLS PEOPLE IN PEARLS Rare pearls at the Deauville American Film Festival They love them, they wear them T hose of us who have been around long garde is famous for her pearl penchant which enough to know that Pearls can never go she took with her to the IMF in Washington DC. out of fashion will have enjoyed the further In Tony Kaye’s Detachment, former Charlie’s proof of the growing popularity of these jewels Angel and Ally McBeal foe, Lucy Liu exhibits MICHELLE OBAMA «Same look, same as seen at this year’s American Film Festival. a stunning Tahitian Pearl necklace. Detach- smile, same Pearls around her neck. The Whether they ment received first Lady is so chic!» are Tahitian a standing ova- IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF LA CALLAS WHO IS SHE ? black, Philippine tion following THE ROMANIAN SOPRANO DIVA HAS CHOSEN TO WEAR «Here is the first official snapshot of Meryl Streep as the ‘Iron Lady.’ The shooting of the film based on the life of gold or South the premiere of A MAGNIFICENT AUSTRALIAN PEARLS STRAND FOR THE Margaret Thatcher started in January. In this picture, we Sea Australian the movie in the COVER OF HER NEW ALBUM; THE FIRST ONE SINCE THE are reminded that the ‘Iron Lady’ is wearing a South Sea FORMER NAMED “PUCCINI” SIX YEARS AGO. cultured pearl necklace and perhaps pearl earrings as white, stylists on presence of the well. Madame Meryl Streep is truly a first-class artist.» In the movie «the iron lady» the pearl necklace plays an both sides of the director to whom important part. Meryl deserves the Oscar for best actress. Atlantic seem we owe Ameri- more and more can History X CHARLÈNE WITTSTOCK «The winds of change are committed to among other. blowing across the Mediter- ranean... Monaco ‘crowns’ adorning stars The movie is a its new princess, Charlene and characters serious conten- Wittstock, 33, who chose a necklace of cultured Tahitian with these mys- der for best film pearls (from Maison Repossi). A little sweetness...» tical orbs. In the in the Deauville film Too Big to competition. Fi- Fail (Debacle a nally, during a Wall Street) that tribute to Naomi brilliantly tells Watts we spotted BASELWORLD DIRECTOR the story of the the Australian Sylvie Ritter during her speech 2008 financial crisis we see the former speaker star in a dramatic black pearl chocker. For the at the press conference for the opening of Ba- of the house, Nancy Pelosi (played by actress longest time pearls have played an important selworld 2011, Show wore a beautiful necklace in Tahitian pearls. Ba- Linda Glick) sport a beautiful multi-coloured role adorning muses and deities in the fine arts sel 2011 was a success and that felt in terms of mo- pearl necklace. In the same movie the French and we are not surprised to see them claim their rale both exhibitors andvisitors. Attendance records were again beaten. The crisis seems a dis- finance minister Christine Lagarde (played by well-deserved place also on the silver screen. tant memoryand with regard to the pearling indus- try, wholesalers have worked well and we were actress Laila Robbins) is wearing a Tahitian able to attend a quality premium. The high end is pearl necklace. In the real world Christine La- Jana BRODBECK – reporting from Deauville attracting an increasingly affluent clientele loo- king for beautiful pearls, whether white, gray or brown.p.4 p.5
LESSON //1 All about oysters Sea water pearls are coming from adult and is recognized as the largest variety of pearl The biggest Tahiti pearl has a 26,9mm diameter. This oysters. The biggest Australian south sea pearls has a unique piece is the property of Mr. Robert Wan Akoya oysters and fresh water pearls 24mm diameter and is the property of Paspaley Pearling Pearls are also known under the name of Pinctada Fu- from mussels. Pearls are coming Group. We are farming those South sea pearls from the cata Martensii; its shell measures from 8 to 10 centi- from animals not minerals. The big east part of the Indian Ocean until the tropical part metres. Most beautiful Akoya pearls are coming from majority is coming from the family of the west coast of the Pacific Ocean. Golden south Japan (in Kobe –The Pearl City-). There is some farming of bivalves and classified as pinctada sea pearls are –in majority- coming from Philippines. plants in Vietnam (Along Bay) and also on South coast (Pteriidae or Pteria). Around Palawan Island, where Jewelmer International of Mainland China (On the China Sea). Certainly less is processing 6 farming plants they harvesting oysters as famous, the oyster called La Paz also known as Pinc- big as 30 cm as diameter. Since 25 years, this company tada Mazatlanica which shells measure 7 to 20 centi- Through years of research, pearl farmers have iden- achieved a true miracle by getting the most wonderful metres. Pearls secreted by this type of oysters are going tified a few molluscs which are naturally gifted for golden pearls. A natural miracle with a little hand from from white to light gray with blue and green shades. giving us the most wonderful gem: A pearl. Silver man. Black lipped oysters named as Pinctada Marga- Half pearls have a 12 to 15mm diameter and full pearls and golden lipped oysters are scientifically named as ritifera measures from 15 to 20 centimetres. It is part have an average of 10mm. It is certainly this type of Pinctada Maxima. It measures 20 to 30 centimetres as of the Cumingi family for those from French Polynesia. oyster which gave birth of the famous “Peregrina”. Also, cultured pearls that we can look for inside best Jewellery boutique are: The Akoya pearl from Japan which colours are clear; from pink-white to creamy with greenish or bluish shades. The famous South sea Pearls from Australia and Indonesia are coming from Pinctada Maxima (mostly silver lipped) which gave pearls all kind of clear shades, from white, pink, green or even blue… South sea from Philippines is coming from golden lipped Pinctada Maxima which results are wonderful and deep golden south sea pearls Last but not least, the only French cultured pearls is the black one coming from French Polynesia; it is the only one to get so dark range of colours. Nicolas Louis MARTINONp.6 p.7
LESSON //2 Tips for selling pearls When selling pearls, it is crucial not Ask questions and listen patiently: Finishing a sale: . Determine the customer’s needs and desires, to amalgamate cultured pearls of A sale is not always an immediate form of business; . Is the customer interested in purchasing an item for sometimes, a client wishes to return to make a purchase different provenances. himself or is it destined for someone else? Offer alternatives when necessary; a ‘this model or . Is it for a particular occasion? nothing’ approach will taint a potential sale; instead, With regards to window displays, pearls should be vi- . If so, what type of occasion and when will it be? effortlessly provide other models that would be suitable sually separated according to their places of origin; use . Does the customer already have something specific in Ask if the customer would like to wear the piece upon easels and other accessories to facilitate visual commu- mind? What is it that the customer does NOT want? purchasing it or have it gift-wrapped. nication. After all, a window display forms the viewer’s first impression and therefore has the potential to turn passersby into customers; windows should be aestheti- Presenting jewellery: Establishing a positive client rapport: . Handle a piece of jewellery with deference; this visual- . The jeweller (or sales advisor) holds a privileged position, cally pleasing and informative in order to showcase the ly establishes the value of an item, . The jeweller (or sales advisor) must be helpful during the beauty of the jewellery itself. Each cultured pearl crea- . Invite the customer to inspect the piece; share the most critical moments of the decision-making process, tion should be clearly labelled using a code that corres- ‘bejewelling’ experience with the customer, as pearls are . Establish a relationship that is not strictly business- ponds to its provenance. This means that each window sensual phenomena, oriented. dresser contributes to tailoring the sales pitch, aiming . Invite the customer to try on the item; have a mir- to present the pieces in the most eye-catching manner possible. As cultured pearls come in impressive spec- ror available, Show your commitment: . Use a process-of-elimination approach to determining . Have a thank you note written and sent to the customer, trum of colours and shapes, they belong to the highest the best match for the customer. . Make a phone call, thanking the customer, rang of jewellery. Strands of cultured pearls are very . Have birthday cards written and sent, rare and expensive. A pearl’s individuality makes it dif- ficult to match when creating necklaces and bracelets. Offer insight and criticism: . Personally invite the customer to return to look at a . Providing a critique is a sign of interest and atten- piece of particular interest; treat the customer like a tiveness, ‘VIP’. THE 6 STEPS TO A SUCCESSFUL SALE: . Responding to criticism will help secure a potential sale. Welcome prospective clients and establish positive and Finally, do not hesitate to meet with colleagues to dis- productive relations: . Make the customer feel welcome and at ease to browse, 3 facets of criticism: cuss your successes and difficulties. . The jewellery ~ is the piece a good match for the client? . Attend to the customer with promptness, English Translation: Jessica VOLZ . The service ~ convince the customer of the savoir-faire firstname.lastname@example.org . Show politeness and sincerity, . Create a link, of the company, . The price ~ emphasise the quality of the pearls. . Become familiar with the customer’s interests, . Enquire whether he/she has been referred by an exis-p.8 p.9 ting client.
SCOOP It’s pearl time for Bvlgari A premiere at Hermès Mediterranean Eden, the new crea- Gold, pearls, stones. Mediterranean Eden is clothed in tion paying tribute to the original a rose gold or white gold case weighing 60 grams, and Hermès has always values of the House of Bulgari, lies is distinguished by the craftsmanship evidenced in its being famous for their silver jewel- finely chased cover. Its motifs, evoking the warm ara- at the crossroads between watch ma- besques of Mediterranean architecture, are set with a king and jewellery and is entirely in pearl for the first rose gold version; or with 4 round lery inspired by line with this rich and dense heritage brilliant-cut diamonds (0.58cts), 58 brilliant-cut dia- horse riding, boating, that has strongly guided and nurtu- monds (0.45cts) and 6 pearls for the second white red the brand’s creative approach. gold version. In its multi-coloured interpretation, the yachting… richest of all, the cover of the Mediterranean Eden watch is adorned with 3 round brilliant-cut diamonds A couple of years ago, the creative director of the shoe (0.34cts), 132 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.1cts), delicately department has been chosen to oversea the jewellery highlighted by 10 generously sized coloured stones: design. Last year, Hermès has launched a collection of amethyst, tourmaline, citrine, peridot and topaz lend a gold and diamond jewellery which they have cleverly distinctive and original dimension to this magnificent called “Haute Bijouterie”, which means the go between composition. The crown of each variation is set with a jewellery and High end one. cabochon-cut stone – a pearl for the first two versions, and a tourmaline for the multi-coloured model. A pearl When we met Pierre Hardy at the recent presentation is like a verb that we can combine to infinity. It gives for the press of the new collection, we were happily opportunity to all designers and artists to express a part surprised that Hermès is now into pearls. Discussing of their personal dreams; to finally enhance women’s with the creator Pierre Hardy admitted that he was a beauty all around the world. true lover of pearls and promised that we will see more pearls in the future collection. We cannot wait to discover… D.B.p.10 p.11
GEMMOLOGY PEARLS CAN HELP! Certificates for pearls, why not? Here is the proof!!! Well-known among jewelry profes- world to offer this service. With our tool, we can deli- ver an analysis report in A4 format or an identification sionals, Paris’ French Gemmology report in the form of a plasticized credit card.” For pro- Laboratory (LFGP) was an offshoot fessionals, the price for this type of report is 75 Euros, of the Paris Chamber of Commerce and the plasticized business card is very affordable at that was bought (a good thing) by the about 30 Euros. More details are available on their BJOP, the French Union of Jewelry, website: www.laboratoire-gemmologie.bjop.fr. The Silverwork, Gemstones and Pearls. analysis usually takes place over three days, but can be delivered the same day upon request. Certain jewellers It has since moved, but hasn’t left had the precursory idea to put the little card next to its original neighbourhood. Its new the jewelry in their window, which has had a positive modern and functional offices are impact. Like diamond certifications, pearl certification located on Notre Dame des Victoires, cards create confidence and help improve conversation just behind the Brongniart Palace. between buyer and seller. It removes several doubts and therefore saves time when completing a sale. Didier BRODBECK The laboratory is directed by M. Olivier Ségura, who L eading Australian South Sea pearl produ- and our thoughts have been with our Japanese friends, is presenting a new activity of utmost interest to the cer Paspaley Pearls and its partners Kyokko partners and business associates since.” Paspaley and jewelry world. In addition to producing “classic” certi- Industries Shima Shokai and Cogent Trading its partners have been long-time supporters of Japan ficates for diamonds and precious coloured, fine and or- have pledged to auction a fine quality 15-18mm during times of need. Following the Great Hanshin namental gemstones, the LFGP possesses a very unique South Sea pearl strand with a retail value of Earthquake of 1995, Paspaley donated US$1 million tool - a micro X-ray machine that is able to certify fine US$130,000 with the proceeds to be donated to support in support of the people of Kobe in their efforts to re- pearls and cultured pearls. We can count on one hand victims of the Japanese Tsunami earlier this year. All build the city and surrounding region. “No single com- the number of laboratories and universities currently monies raised from the auction will be donated directly pany has the ability to bring substantial relief in situa- able to offer such a tool, which still cost hundreds of to the Japan Red Cross to support their extensive work tions such as this, but we hope that our contribution, thousands of Euros. A crazy price to pay? That remains across the devastated municipalities. Paspaley and its together with the support of other nations, companies to be seen, but this is a time when many questions are partners wish to show support for the region which and individuals, will help Japan to recover from this being asked about the origins of pearls – fine, natural, played a leading role in establishing the cultured pearl adversity as quickly as possible,” said Peter Bracher. The nucleated or not. The LFGP offers answers that will industry in its early years and which continues to play exquisite 15-18mm strand will be auctioned later this improve how jewellers sell quality pearls, like Tahitian such an important role today. Peter Bracher, Execu- year. Full details of the auction will be released in the cultured or South Sea pearls. Ségura explains that a tive Director of Paspaley Group of Companies stated coming month, in the interim, for additional informa- professional, or even the public, can use “our machine “The Paspaley family and company staff were all sad- tion please contact Trevor Hannam at Paspaley directly to analyze a pearl or pearls, and obtain their internal dened by the devastation in Japan at the beginning on email@example.com. All support of the auc- structure. We are one of the only laboratories in thep.12 p.13 of the year. It was terrible to watch the events unfold tion and this great cause would be greatly appreciated.
CHANEL rhymes with perles It’s a well-known fact that Mademoiselle Chanel has always been a great fan of pearls and succeeded to put them on the map. An iconic portrait of Coco shows her with her neck dripping with strands. A ccording to her, pearls had the power of enligh- tening a woman face. It is not surprising that beginning of October during the fashion week in Paris Mr. Karl Lagerfeld dedicated the latest couture collec- tion to Pearl. Suzy Menkes who attended the show tit- led her article in the New York Times (Oct. 5th): “Cha- nel, a pearl of show” Quoting Suzy, it started with a pearl, perhaps the pearl gem that Karl wore as a tie pin to take his bow at the end of an exceptional Chanel Show… For Chanel Spring- Summer 2012 season Mr. Lagerfeld plumbed the ocean depths and rose to fashion heights… above all the col- lection was indisputably and irrefutably Chanel, almost every piece turning on the pearl that is one of Coco icons. …By replacing the signature Chanel chains with the equally iconic pearls KL lightened up the day wear. …This tour de force highlighted the power and energy of a brand that Mr. Lagerfeld seems to have right un- der his skin, for Chanel & for fashion; the designer is a pearl beyond price. We, at The Pearl Tribune would like to thank both Karl and Suzy for helping us to give the best promotion possible for our favourite gem. Brooch Céleste in 18 carats, white gold with a baroque cultured Australian 79 carats pearl, Didier BRODBECK 24 baguettes diamonds, 881 brilliant cut diamonds, 12,5 carats.p.14 p.15
AUCTION AUCTION TIANCHENG INTERNATIONAL Aristocratic splendour The first Hong Kong London – Christie’s historic sale of three of the most important jewels that belonged to Han- nah, Countess of Rosebery (1851-1890) née de Roths- The Rosebery pearl and diamond Chinese auction tiara, bracelet and brooch, child, which will lead the London auction of Important Jewels on Wednesday 8 June 2011. Victorian ancestral company. Last jewels of the first rank, they were made in the opulent November, they held grand Victorian court style and comprise a series of large natural pearl and diamond clusters. These jewels a big auction of will be sold as two lots: The Rosebery pearl and diamond tiara which is expected to realise between £1,000,000 contemporary art, and £1,500,000 and The Rosebery pearl and diamond high end jewellery bracelet and brooch (estimate:£300,000-400,000). Keith Penton, Head of Jewels Christie’s London: “The Rose- and jadeite. bery pearl and diamond tiara, bracelet and brooch were at the heart of Lady Rosebery’s vast array of magnifi- cent jewels, which rivalled those of the crowned heads Of course, Jade pieces went over the roof with record of Europe at the time. They are a rare survival of 19th prices; several pieces of south sea and tahitian black century English aristocratic splendour, as so much an- pearls were sold to chinese customers here are some cestral jewellery has been sold anonymously, remounted examplees of estimated and sale prices. Next auction is or broken down. Having descended through various scheduled on Spring 2012. branches of the family and survived the vicissitudes of fashion, the jewels are being offered for sale from a For more information, contact Heidi Ng at +852 2150 0761 private collection for the first time since their creation Etienne d’ARJEMONT nearly 140 years ago. As jewellery market leaders for 17 consecutive years, Christie’s are proud to offer these spectacular examples on an international stage at a time when pearls are once more appreciated for their great beauty and rarity.” Nicolas MARTINONp.16 p.17
MUMBAI, Drowning with pearls... This August, the Indian Fashion Jewelry Week celebrated the pearl: white, golden, Tahiti - et al. For four days, the pearl-laden creations of 15 of the world’s most acclaimed jewelry designers were paraded up and down the catwalk in the fashion of Paris Haute Couture - with a Bollywood twist. Models strewn with magnificent jewelry sets walked to the beat of several famous DJs accompanied by dancers. The indian models were sumptuous and each show ended with the appearance of a Bollywood celebrity. I had never seen in the world of jewelry such a spectacular display. Magical! A thousand and one nights - DJ style. A «Grand Finale» concluded the four day event - featuring a magnificent Bou- cheron set worn by India’s most famous movie star and designed by England’s Shaun Leane. Not to be missed next year. After the four fashion jewelry days, the actual fair opened. It is hard to imagine a fair so grandiose. Hords of buyers, like other fairs can only dream of, swarm the exhibition halls where more than a thousand exhibitors would eagerly await. Here in India, business is booming. Not entirely surpri- sing for a country that can rely on its billion person strong interior market. The Indians are traditionally mad for pearls and the fair was not surprisingly full of them. A truly unforgettable experience (despite the monsoon). D.B.p.18 Above and right page: Sonam Kapoor the biggest Indian movie star covered with pearls
SCHOEFFEL RUTH GRIECO A luxurious pearl trip to the Cote d’Azur A tributs to a pearl RUTH GRIECO ROMANCING THE STONES DIDIER BRODBECK Ruth-grieco-COUV-eng.indd 1 10/01/12 22:40 I n the book dedicated to her is published in two versions, English and Portu- life, her inspiration and her guese and will be launched at BaselWorld in March. works. Didier Brodbeck, the Those are words from Ruth Grieco about her inspira- author, dedicated two chap- tion & designs: «The sea continues to exercise a sweet ters on Pearl Jewelry. One on charm that entices my feelings. It emotionally involves designs with south sea pearls me and induces me to think of poetry from simple the other with Tahiti pearls. things. I submerge my thoughts in this mysterious The main reason is that Ruth submarine and with an almost frenetic enthusiasm who has always been inspired by the sea and the oceans. I group shells, fish, and algae that with the fantasy of She was born in a town by the seaside and still spends my childhood jump around on my hands and flourish a lot of time in the family house over looking the ocean. in the form of rings, necklaces, brooches, and earrings. Her love of pearls is so preeminent that she was pro- Invariably, the entire family gathers together as a ritual bably one of the first designer to use Tahitian Pearl to spend part of summer in Florianopolis, an island in Latin America. Ruth Grieco is a legend in Bra- in southern Brazil, where we have a cozy home at the zil and with her creativity and sense of beauty. She seaside. This feeling of happiness fills my whole being has almost all the possible awards in that existed: and makes me more sensitive, serene and contempla- HRD Diamond Award, Platinum Guild, Tanza- tive... And many collections are born from these magical nite foundation, IBGM... and naturally Tahitian moments of magnetism between the sun and the sea.» Happy Blue is Schoeffel’s homage to Happy Blue epitomises the sensuality of the Mediterra- Trophies over the years in different categories. nean in its inimitable glamour. In its breathtakingly self- the magical flair of the Côte d’Azur: One of her forte is the marriage of black and grey, white For more information, please contact firstname.lastname@example.org» email@example.com assured facets. Not to be outdone as regards sensuality, an individually designed ring with a and gold pearls with colored stones and diamonds. Josepha ASTOR My Miracle is a fascinating, youthful line from Schoef- spellbinding fascination. The sump- fel’s Creative Collection. A charmingly fashionable nec- The book titled «Ruth Grieco, romancing the stones» tuous extravagance of a rare blue klace with fine, white-gold tassels, crowned with Tahiti Tahiti pearl stands out enticingly pearls in eclectic colour nuances. A wonderful, personal against an ocean of turquoise-blue talisman – long enough to swing freely to and fro, irre- sistible to touch, to feel its blissful caress over and over diamonds with its seductive opu- again. One’s own personal good-luck charm. An amulet lence. A firework display in blue and of one’s very own – My Miracle. A luxurious trip to the turquoise against a night sky of black glamour of French savoir vivre. Feminine extravagance rhodanised gold. par excellence. Pure luxury. Since 1921. Nicolas MARTINONp.20 p.21
DESIGNER’S CORNER DESIGNER’S CORNER Cathy Specht Yael Sonia Y ael is a Brazilian designer who than curves. As well as defying rigi- today divides her time between dity, they also harmonise with the her hometown of São Paolo and New contrastingly graphic style of her York, which houses her boutique on designs. Her vision introduces a Madison Avenue. Yael’s style appeals brave new category of jewellery that to women yearning for jewellery is geared for the 21st-century wo- that epitomizes sophisticated mo- man’s need to use fashion as a quin- dernism. Her designs are clean-cut, tessential means of self-expression. classy and void of superfluous em- C athy is not your typical designer. Unlike many of her bellishment, As a result, her pieces competitors, she is well-versed in nearly all facets of exude an aura of sheer timelessness. the jewellery business. As well as supplying pieces to seve- In her view, pearls embody more ral leading European brands, her creative genius has given birth to the remarkable pearl creations of Tahizea (Tahiti). This “Renaissance” woman is an artist with many feathers in her hat: in addition to being a poet, painter, sculptor and designer, she is a talented actress and now she is starting a modelling career. The accompanying photos showcase her passion for Tahitian pearls, a passion which is destined to lead her to an unprecedented degree of success. To request images or film clips, use the following e-mail address: cathy. firstname.lastname@example.org Susie Otero H er jewelry is a reflection of her personality. It has charmed, beauty and poetry. Suzy Otero is a very good looking and a chic lady. She has worked with the big brands. Recently she has designed the Princess Grace Jewelry collection for Montblanc inspired by her favorite flower The rose. Suzy loves flowers and her solitaire ring with a tahiti pearl is perfect example of her talent. Armand DEGALOISp.22 p.23
SAGA The golden pearl, treasure of the Philippines For thirty years now, Jewelmer has We had to see the pearl ourselves to better understand what makes it so valuable. The highly esteemed golden become the largest company produ- pearl commands an even higher price than its Tahitian cing Golden South Sea Pearls. The and Japanese counterparts primarily because of its rari- company was co-founded by a French ty. It is no coincidence that in 1996, Fidel V. Ramos, the perliculture specialist and a Filipino President of the Republic of the Philippines, officially national and now employs over a declared the Philippine Pearl, known as the South Sea thousand people. The golden pearl, Pearl, as the country’s national gem. This gem is consi- Today, Jewelmer produces 850,000 pearls annually, and ponsible for the fabrication of their jewelry, employs 40 dered a miracle of nature, and its natural golden color is now considered the world’s largest producer of South goldsmiths and artisans, among which were children which continues to intrigue us and is fascinating. Once extracted from its shell, the only Sea Pearls, exceeding Australia’s production. The par- of divers from the pearl farms. They were trained in a remains difficult to produce, has yet treatment necessary for this gem, is rinsing it with salt tners own and operate 6 pearl farms, covering more jewelry school started by the company. A collaboration to be discovered in Europe. water. than 30,000 hectares of marine concession. The group of five designers – Filipino, French and Italian – design The mantle of this bivalve shell, the gold lipped pinc- comprises over a thousand people, distributed among for Jewelmer and are submitted to a Design Committee tada maxima, gives the pearl its rich color. Depending the pearl farms, head office, retail shops and its works- headed by the Commercial Director, Pierre Fallourd. on where it was cultivated, the shell produces pearls of hop. Fifteen retail stores have been opened in the Phi- But soon, one of Jacques’ daughters, Gaelle Branellec, various colors, from silvery white to golden yellow. A lippines; the first of which is located in the prestigious joined the company and became the head of the creative pearl is an organic crystal formed with nacreous layers Manila Peninsula Hotel, where the French journalists department. She gained experience while working with of conchiolin and calcium carbonate. The intensity of were accommodated during their entire stay. a famous Italian jeweler in Place Vendôme. Jacques- the orient is determined by the thickness and regularity Exclusively established in the Philippines, Jewelmer Christophe Branellec, a very talented young man who of the aragonite crystal layering. retail stores can be found in luxury hotels and shop- inherited his father’s passion for the pearl business, It took over ten years for Jewelmer to be able ping malls. Their workshop in Manila, who is res- also joined the company. Together with Pierre, they re- to produce a rich golden color, with extensive present the company in different international trades- research and expertise in grafting. hows where Jewelmer’s presence is very visible: Basel, And yet, they are still challenged every year on their Hong Kong, Tokyo, Kobe, and Las Vegas. The company quest to produce the perfect pearl. A lot of factors come further strengthened its strong international presence in during the nacre’s growth around the nucleus. And with Jewelmer France headed by Barthelemy Hatt. He so, the birth of a golden pearl is considered as a gift of organizes talks with professional audiences and super- Nature to men to take care of. Among these men, one vises activities in jewelry shops to promote the golden has worked relentlessly for decades, in order to over- pearls. Distribution to France’s top retailers yields very come the challenge of pearl culturing. A native of Brit- encouraging results thanks to the promotional efforts tany, France he decided to sail around the world, and which includes sales staff training, pearl events, and a eventually made his final halt in the Philippines. Now, very strong presence in consumer media. «France is ap.24 Jacques Branellec is synonymous to the “golden pearl”. springboard toward Europe,» explains Pierre Fal p.25
lourd. It serves as a marketing learning ground with broad product offerings ranging from classic settings so as to maintain stability in the ecosystem. The constant culturing of pearls in an area will even- RARETY in gold to some more elaborate designs set in gold and tually deplete its environment. To avoid this from hap- diamonds. Manuel Cojuangco announced his plans of pening, Jewelmer decided to relocate and open new One pearl in a million opening Jewelmer stores outside the Philippines in the sites, so as to venture into breeding oysters in hatche- near future, which is currently carrying out 70% of the ries. It takes approximately six years to produce a harvest, sales. To produce a perfect strand, it has to be sorted resulting from highly complex processes and requires out from more than 250 000 pearls. In its head office everyone to be vigilant at all times. Jacques Branellec It happens but once in a lifetime, if and undisturbed surroundings for another two to three years, before it can yield its precious creation. Not all in Makati, there is a room specifically designed to allow explains: “The production of a single pearl requires 323 one is fortunate enough, to witness pearls are formed equal, however. The pearl’s nacre is natural light to come in for the selection of pearls. Five operations, and if one of these goes wrong, the perfec- a miracle. For Jewelmer’s pearl far- composed of aragonite crystals bound together by a pro- or six necklaces are regularly being matched. Philippine tion of a pearl will be affected.” Jewelmer transformed mers, harvesting a 18+mm round, tein called conchiolin, and the particular arrangement pearl sizes range from 8-17 mm, with an average size of itself from merely extracting of shells, to a sustainable golden, gem quality Philippine South of these crystals refracts light in different ways, giving about 11.5 mm. The pearl size mostly sold by the com- development company through the production of its own pany, ranges from 9 to 10mm in diameter. oysters using biotechnology. It opened doors for labora- Sea pearl is exactly that: a miracu- a pearl its unearthly glow, that complex value factor “Grading of pearls has different stages”, as explained tory production of microalgae for the growth of oyster lous creation from Mother Nature. known as its luster. Aside from that extraordinary color, the crystals in Philippine golden South Sea pearls are by Pierre Fallourd. “First, we sort them by their shapes, larvae. This laboratory, protected from light, is where the Created in a hatchery-bred gold-lip- serendipitously arranged to produce a luster unlike any quality, color and finally their size. It even takes a se- baby shells start to develop their nacre as they cling to ped Pinctada maxima oyster from other. The golden pearls produced by Jewelmer today cond or a third time to grade the pearls according to nets. To achieve this, this entails feeding the larvae a spe- Jewelmer’s pearl farm in Palawan, are the result of some 10 years of experimentation in the their quality, which is the most difficult to be determi- cific kind of plankton, every two hours, everyday for nine Philippines, this rare specimen of a breeding process, perfected by the company’s techni- ned. The orient reflection can go from pink to green. days. Then, only 3% of these may be used for breeding. A color classification of about a dozen variations was In Taytay, three to four million bivalves are constantly gem is a fabulous symbol of the pearl cians and marine biologists. “It’s a natural process that established to better monitor the production analysis. being cultured, and each of these are followed through farmer’s dedication to his craft as can’t be hurried—you wait for five years to see the result of a decision that you pray wasn’t wrong!” said Jewelmer Apart from the shell itself, some of these factors can each stage. The opening of the hatchery and production well as nature’s rich bounty. Assistant Managing Director Pierre Fallourd. South Sea also contribute to the production of a wider range of sites reinforces Jewelmer environmental policies. “We pearls are the largest of pearl varieties and averages at pearl colors: like the minerals, salinity, plankton or the were the first to mobilize against dynamite and cyanide The entire process pearl production process takes 323 12mm. “To have a large, almost perfect 18+mm pearl of condition of the water”. fishing. We also are aware that we maintain the biodiver- individual steps and four to five years to complete. Wit- 1- this quality is truly a miracle,” said Fallourd. “Imagine Protecting the pearls and the environment: sity throughout the entire region. We annually produce hin this life cycle, the pearl farmer must be attentive to the conditions that came together in just the right way After the crafting procedure, the oysters, placed inside more oysters than what we have taken out from the sea every nuance, every current, tide, and change of tempe- to create such a pearl,” he said. “If I would have to say, baskets, are returned back in the waters, 10 feet under in decades. In areas where our farms are, the fish popu- rature to preserve the health of the delicate gold-lipped the odds would be about 1 in a million!” so as to protect them from predators. It takes two to lation rose by 5 to 6 times”. Pinctada maxima oyster as it grows a pearl in its prover- three years to produce a pearl. During this period, the Carine LOEILLET. Managing Editor bial womb. A cultured pearl is made up of several coa- Orion Magazine (Paris – France). tings of nacre that form around a nucleus, which was oysters are turned every day to achieve the roundness of a gem, and the baskets are cleaned every month. A originally inserted into the pearl by a master technician. miracle of nature, produced in the sea waters in any Along with the round nucleus, a piece of the mantle Jacques Branellec, weather condition. The company also has to protect founder of Jewelmer from a donor oyster of the chosen color is inserted, to International, itself from pirates, and against the widespread practice come up with the desired shade. The nucleated oyster sorting a recent crop. of dynamite and cyanide fishing, which is extremely is then given much care and attention, kept in clean Inside the labora- destructive for the environment. For pearl farming, it is tory, where Jewelmer breeds the golden lip absolutely crucial to cultivate pearls in pristine waters oyster spats.p.26 p.27
PHOTO GALLERY Sealed with Kiss from New York… This photo shoot took place in November of 2011 in The star of the shoot was 80 years old beauty Carmen a town house in New York famous for its orchestrated DELL’OREFICE, who has been modeling since the dilapidated look. It is full of antique furniture and exo- age of 15, the couture clothes, and, of course, Pearls, tic collection “bric a brac” treasures to satisfy a sceno- Pearl, and Pearl Jewelry, all from Ella gem’s NY collec- grapher’s dream. Stylist Ise White took full advantage tion, designed by world-famous pearl jeweler Ella Gaf- of these possibilities, under the lens of photographer ter. Whether Australian South Sea pearls, or Japanese Christopher Craymer from New York. Akoya pearls, or Tahitian marvels, pearls occupy center stage in Ella Gafter’s creative realm. For what is more lustrous, feminine and seductive than a pearl? From New-York, Ferris WINTERp.30 p.31
If time is money, pearls are tooPesos and pearls. The Philippine’s National Gem claims a place in the Filipino wallet. In anunprecedented move, the Central Bank of the Philippines included the Philippine gold pearl in thelatest incarnation of the Peso banknotes. Unveiled in December 2010, the reverse side of the new1000-peso bill sees the South Sea pearl resting upon the Pinctada maxima oyster. It is the largestdenomination of the Philippine peso.Pearls are all the rage today--just one more reason why you should consider harnessing theirpowers to benefit your business.