6. Sustainable consumer behavior
Sustainable consumer behavior is consumers’ behaviors that improve social and
environmental performance as well as meet their needs. It studies why and how
consumers incorporate sustainability issues into their consumption behavior.
The knowledge of sustainable consumer behavior combines the basic concepts of
sustainability, sustainable fashion, circular economy, circular fashion, compassionate
fashion, ethical fashion etc.
7. What is sustainability?
The ability to be maintained at a certain rate or level.
“Avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological
balance and thus securing the present and future demands”.
“An economic state where the demands placed upon the environment by people
and commerce can be met without reducing the capacity of the environment to
provide for future generations.
9. Environmental sustainability
Environmental sustainability: It is the rates of renewable resource harvest, pollution
creation, and non-renewable resource depletion that can be continued indefinitely.
If they cannot be continued indefinitely then they are not sustainable.
1. For renewable resources, the rate of harvest should not exceed the rate of
regeneration (sustainable yield);
2. For pollution, The rates of waste generation from projects should not exceed the
assimilative capacity of the environment (sustainable waste disposal); and
3. For nonrenewable resources the depletion of the nonrenewable resources should
require comparable development of renewable substitutes for that resource.
10. Social sustainability
The ability of a community to develop processes and structures which not only meet the
needs of its current members but also support the ability of future generations to
maintain a healthy community.
For, apparel production, social issues are most important. Social issues are based on
human right, human health & human safety aspects. However, for social aspects, there
are some established international standard which are followed everywhere in the world.
Some of the standards are:
WRAP principles (USA)
SEDEX codes (UK)
SA 8000 (USA)
ETI (UK)
BSCI (Europe)
11. Social sustainability
(Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production) WRAP’s 12 principles:
1. Compliance with Laws and Workplace Regulations
2. Prohibition of Forced Labor
3. Prohibition of Child Labor
4. Prohibition of Harassment or Abuse
5. Compensation and Benefits
6. Hours of Work
7. Prohibition of Discrimination
8. Health and Safety
9. Freedom of Association and Collective Bargaining
10. Environment
11. Customs Compliance
12. Security
12. Economic sustainability
Economic sustainability refers to practices that support long-
term economic growth without negatively impacting social, environmental, and
cultural aspects of the community.
13. What does sustainability require?
If you are presently at a sustainable state…then meet the demands of today without
compromising our ability to meet the demands of the future. This is a net zero impact.
If you are NOT presently at a sustainable state…then meet the demands of today without
compromising our ability to meet the demands of the future by reducing the environmental
load/unit of commerce to offset any increase in unit production so as to achieve a
sustainable state over time.
That means, your business must deliver clothing, objects, food or services to the customer in
a way that reduces consumption, energy use, distribution costs, economic concentration, soil
erosion, atmospheric pollution, and other forms of environmental damage at a rate greater
than the normal growth in consumption would require. Business must have a “net positive
impact.”
14. What is sustainable fashion?
Sustainable fashion, also called eco fashion, is a part of the growing design philosophy and
trend of sustainability, the goal of which is to create a system which can be supported
indefinitely in terms of human impact on the environment and social responsibility. It can be
seen as an alternative trend against fast fashion.
Here are some features frequently cited when describing sustainable fashion:
Made with organic fibers, sometimes certified by an international body like GOTS.
Made with more ecofriendly fabrics, like hemp or bamboo (which need less chemicals and/or
water to be grown).
Natural origin of the dyes.
Use of discarded fabrics.
Upcycling of used materials.
Made with recycled fabrics.
Use of less toxic glues.
Garments made to last for a long time etc.
15. Circular economy
“The circular economy refers to an industrial economy that is restorative by intention; aims to rely on
renewable energy; minimizes, tracks, and hopefully eliminates the use of toxic chemicals; and
eradicates waste through careful design.”
In order to progress towards a circular economy, following set of strategies and actions should be
taken :
1. To minimize waste by designing products that can be disassembled and recycled at their end of life;
2. To strive towards efficient energy use, as well as using renewable energy sources,
3. To promote diversity and adaptiveness rather than efficiency, so as to create greater resilience in the
face of sudden changes or disturbances; and
4. To use a systems approach to both natural and man-made systems, by acknowledging interactions,
feedback effects, non-linearity and unpredictability of especially the natural systems.
Moreover, a circular economy involves careful management of materials flows by all actors in society. It
makes a significant distinction between material flows of biological nutrients and technical nutrients.
While biological nutrients should reenter the natural systems after extraction and use, technical nutrients
(read “components”) are man-made and should circulate (“in high quality”) in society without entering the
biosphere (or natural systems).
17. Example of an approach towards circular economy
Waste management:
18. Circular Fashion
As defined by Dr. Brismar, the concept ‘circular
fashion’ is based on the main principles of circular
economy and sustainable development, and relates
to the fashion industry in a wide sense, i.e. not only
to fashion but also apparel, sportswear and outdoor
wear.
‘Circular fashion’ can be defined as clothes, shoes or
accessories that are designed, sourced, produced
and provided with the intention to be used and
circulate responsibly and effectively in society for as
long as possible in their most valuable form, and
hereafter return safely to the biosphere when no
longer of human use.
19. Circular Fashion (continue…)
Circular fashion can be defined as any fashion item that is:
1. Designed so that its sub-components can be disassembled or separated to facilitate repair,
remake, reuse and eventually material recycling at its end of use;
2. Designed with high quality materials and in timeless style to maximize its durability,
longevity and attractiveness to many users (if passed on to new users);
3. Designed on demand (custom-made) in order to be more optimally designed for its
specific user in terms of fabric/material, style and fit, thus increasing its perceived value and
likely lifespan;
4. Produced with non-toxic, high quality and preferably biodegradable materials, so that its
material(s) may be safely biodegraded and composted at the end of use; or produced with
non-toxic synthetic materials that may be effectively recycled (such as recyclable polyester);
20. Circular Fashion (continue…)
5. Produced in such a way that all waste generation is minimized during production, and all
potential spill material and rest products can be reclaimed and reused as raw material for
other processes, thus minimizing the extraction of new virgin material;
6. Produced, transported and marketed using renewable energy, such as wind or solar power,
wherever possible, and using water and other raw materials effectively and safely throughout
production and distribution;
7. Can be used by multiple users throughout its life time through swapping, borrowing,
rental, redesign, or second hand services, thus extending its user life; and
8. Can be safely and effectively reclaimed and recycled, whereby its components are utilized
as raw material for manufacturing of new products, or are biodegraded and turned into
biological nutrients for microorganisms in the soil.
21. Sixteen principles for a circular fashion industry
Principle 1: Design with a purpose
Principle 2: Design for longevity
Principle 3: Design for resource efficiency
Principle 4: Design for biodegradability
Principle 5: Design for recyclability
Principle 6: Source and produce more locally
Principle 7: Source and produce without toxicity
Principle 8: Source and produce with efficiency
Principle 9: Source and produce with renewables
Principle 10: Source and produce with good ethics
Principle 11: Provide services to support long life
Principle 12: Reuse, recycle or compost all remains
Principle 13: Collaborate well and widely
The above thirteen principles are defined from a producer perspective. One of these is highly relevant also from a
consumer perspective ,that is Principle 12 (Reuse, recycle or compost all remains). Yet, from the consumer
perspective, three additional principles also need to be added:
Principle 14: Use, wash and repair with care
Principle 15: Consider rent, loan, swap, secondhand or redesign instead of buying new
Principle 16: Buy quality as opposed to quantity
22. circular fashion consumer
A circular fashion consumer is any person who aspires to:
Buy items that he/she genuinely appreciates and intends to keep and use actively for a long time,
possibly a lifetime;
Buy items of high quality with regards to both the materials involved (for example the fabric) and the
overall product, so as to have it look good, work well and last for a long time;
Buy items that are non-toxic and/or organic, that is products that contain no harmful substances and
have been produced without any toxic substances or materials involved. The customer here often seeks
products that have been certified according to an ecolabel, such as GOTS, EU Ecolabel or the Nordic
Ecolabel (Svanen);
Buy items that are made with organic or recycled materials, preferably environmentally certified. The
customer prefers natural materials (such as wool, linen, silk, and viscose) before synthetic (such as
polyester, acrylic and nylon), and also recycled material before virgin. Ethical and fair trade products are
also generally sought;
Buy items that can be easily repaired and redesigned in order to make maximum use of the product
and the materials involved;
Buy items that can be easily and safely disassembled in order to facilitate effective reuse and recycling
of its sub-components and materials at their end of use (T-shirts with plastic prints are thus not a good
option!);
23. circular fashion consumer
Prioritize looking for second hand or vintage pieces, or finding fashion pieces through renting,
borrowing or swapping as opposed to buying newly produced goods;
Take good care of his/her wardrobe through careful washing practices (low temperatures, gentle
eco-detergents, no tumble drying, and/or hand wash) and, when possible, avoiding washing all
together by airing clothes outdoor or similar;
Hand in items that are no longer needed or appreciated to secondhand shops or charity
organizations, or pass them on to friends or relatives, in order to give them new life; and
Take worn-out or unamendable products to a recycling station so that they can be recycled and
reused as raw material or components in new products.
Specific definition of circular fashion consumer:
To summarize, a ‘circular fashion consumer’ is a person who appreciates the true value of a garment,
a pair of shoes, or accessory, including all work that lies behind and all precious natural resources
that have been used throughout its supply chain. He/she aims to hold on to its belongings for as
long as possible, and to use them a maximum number of times during their lifetime. In all, he/she
wishes to contribute to a fashion industry that is ‘circular as opposed to linear’, in which nothing goes
to waste and everything is utilized, reutilized, repurposed and recycled in the most effective and
sustainable manner possible.
24. Some related terms & definitions
Conscious fashion:
Conscious fashion is that fashion which spreads the consciousness of sustainability. It is similar to slow fashion
or sustainable fashion.
Compassionate fashion:
It is an emerging new concept. Compassionate fashion is defined as a fundamental shift from simply being
aware and conscious, to also feeling true compassion towards how workers, societies and ecosystems are
affected across the supply chains. In other words, a shift is taking place where business owners do not only
ask themselves “What should we do, based on our knowledge and awareness of any negative impacts?” to
also asking “What do we want to do based on our heart-felt values and compassion for others?” This
transition from mere consciousness to genuine compassion means that companies begins to lead ‘from their
heart’ as opposed to simply ‘from their minds.’ The ambition of such companies will not simply be to minimize
or compensate for any adverse impacts, but rather to prevent any negative impacts at all costs, and to create
positive outcomes and long-lasting benefits to others. This new approach originates in the precautionary
principle and the idea of doing good, rather than just focusing on doing less bad.
25. Some related terms & definitions
Ethical Fashion: Although there can’t be a unanimous definition of anything “ethical”, since such evaluation
depends on a personal assessment of what constitutes a morally acceptable behavior, many insist in attaching
the word to anything related to human rights in the workplace and working conditions. Ethical fashion, thus,
would be anything made under these standards.
Ethical fashion is a holistic concept inside the slow fashion movement which focuses on everything being
ethical, from environmental considerations to labor rights and supply chain transparency.
These are some features that are usually pointed out as ethical:
Fair trade
Employing women or certain ethnic groups
Made without animal components
No animal testing
Donating part of the profits to a charity
Handmade
Fair wages paid
Contributing to preserve traditions of an ethnic minority
Revealing manufacturing locations and workforce policies
The product itself rises awareness or promotes an ideal or cause
** Ethical fashion is also related with the proper application of copyright, trademark, design right etc.**
26. Some related terms & definitions
Copyright:
A simple definition of copyright is that it is a bunch of rights in certain creative works such as text, artistic
works, music, computer programs, sound recordings and films. The rights are granted exclusively to the
copyright owner to reproduce the material, and for some material, the right to perform or show the work to
the public. Copyright owners can prevent others from reproducing or communicating their work without their
permission or may sell these rights to someone else.
Copyright does not protect ideas, concepts, styles or techniques. For example, copyright will not protect an
idea for a film or book, but it will protect a script for the film or even a storyboard for the film.
Copyright protection is not applicable for the class of “useful articles”.
In the case of fashion products, sketch may be protected, but not actual garment. Because, the article’s
expressive component is not separable from its useful function.
27. Some related terms & definitions
Trademark:
A trademark is a word, phrase, symbol, and/or design that identifies and distinguishes the source of the goods
of one party from those of others. A service mark is a word, phrase, symbol, and/or design that identifies and
distinguishes the source of a service rather than goods. Some examples include: brand names, slogans, and
logos. The term "trademark" is often used in a general sense to refer to both trademarks and service marks.
For fashion items, it is useful when a fashion designer visibly integrates a trademark to an extent that it
becomes and element of the design.
Ex: Burberry’s distinctive plaid.
Ex: Louis Vuitton handbags covered with “LV” mark.
For a majority of garments, the trademarks are not visible or only subtly displayed (on buttons, tabs on side or
back of item) and, therefore, do not prevent design copying.
28. Some related terms & definitions
Patent:
A patent is a limited duration property right relating to an invention, granted by the United States Patent and
Trademark Office in exchange for public disclosure of the invention. Patentable materials include machines,
manufactured articles, industrial processes, and chemical compositions.
Substantive Issues:
Design patents are limited to designs that are truly “new” & must be novel and non-obvious.
Does not extend to designs that are merely re-workings.
Design patents sometimes encounter problems with functionality.
Procedural Issues:
Process of preparing a patent application is expensive and lengthy.
Design patents are too slow given the short shelf-life of most fashion designs (often more than 2
years).
Uncertainty (approx 1/3 applications denied).
29. Some related terms & definitions
Design right:
‘Design right’ automatically protects your design for 10 years after it was first sold or 15 years after it was
created - whichever is earliest.
You can use it to stop someone copying your design.
Design right only applies to the shape and configuration (how different parts of a design are arranged
together) of objects.