AUR HOUSING: FRAUD OR STUDENT MISCONCEPTION?
THE DARK SIDE OF ROME
ROME’S 6TH EDITION
EXMODEL’S SUCCESS STORY
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VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1
Kelsea Brennan-Wessels, Caitlin Foley,
Adrienne Hawkins, Rosi Mosca-Herrera,
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romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 1
6 Last Bird Catches the Worm
Rome’s Sixth “Notte Bianca”
10 Halloween in Rome
Celtic Origins, American
Materialism and Italian Tradition
14 Torre Argentina
18 Recipe for Success
An Entrepreneur’s Story
26 The AUR Housing
Fraud or Student Misconception?
22 Imported Ideas
Philadelphia University Fashion Tips
31 Student Life
At The American University of Rome
34 Mike’s Market Memos
40 The Best of...
Rome’s City Center, Monteverde & Trastevere
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 3
SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER2008 | CONTENTS
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 5
Over 2,000 years of history and culture have transformed Rome into an assimilation of
architectural styles, food, and people.
Many new resident and study abroad students find it diffcult to find their place in the chaos
Italians are used to.
I believe students shouldn’t question their ability to adapt and integrate into Italian culture.
When Rome gets tough, the key to a successful, intercultural experience is a reliable guide.
ROMANESCO Magazine is a publication of The American University of Rome (AUR),
produced “in-house” by university students who are proud to say they have lived through the
worst and best of Roman life.
Unlike other publications found on the AUR campus, ROMANESCO Magazine is non-
profit. This means that the creators can be trusted to have the most reliable and most pertinent
information for students.
This first issue of ROMANESCO Magazine begins with an introduction to Rome’s Notte
Bianca, a significant cultural event that is growing in popularity not only in Rome but around
For those of you who will be missing Halloween back home, you will be happy to know
that this cultural event has been accepted into Italian culture. The “Halloween in Rome” article
suggests a few clubs that charge discounted prices if they see you dressed up on October 31.
Following is an article by ex-AUR study-abroad student, Tess Roth. Though currently
living in New York City, her love for Rome is encapsulated in her feature “Torre Argentina, Cat
From photo shoots to the kitchen, an exclusive profile of ex-model Josephine Scorer will
blow you away. She has sucessfully started her own bakery in the heart of Rome and gives us
pointers on how we can do the same.
The Philadelphia University fashion students have built their portfolios in Rome. We have
their comments on Italian attire and suggestions for the upcoming season.
We have incorporated a section dedicated to our university’s lifestyle including an
interesting article on AUR facilitated housing and the misconceptions students may have about it.
“Mike’s Market Memos” is one of our most practical sections. Here we scoped out the
best markets in the AUR campus vicinity and what to look for in each one.
Finally, we have our “Best Of” section. With the help of students and faculty at AUR,
we have compiled a listing of locali (restaurants, bars and clubs) that have been voted the best
based on quality, prices and service. This compilation is just a small selection of the hundreds of
restaurants, bars and clubs in Rome.
The staff and I encourage readers of ROMANESCO Magazine to participate in our
following issues by sending in articles and/or any information pertinent to AUR students so that
we may inform and at the same time entertain students to the best of our ability. Feel free to send
us any comments or questions that you may have at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Enjoy the issue.
Catches the Worm
Rome’s 6th “Notte Bianca”
by Michael Maury
NewYork isn’t the only city that never sleeps. Saturday, September 6,
2008, Rome will present “La Notte Bianca” once again for its sixth edition.
Organized in collaboration with Rome’s City Council the “White Night”
(or sleepless night) is synonymous to free concerts, museum entries, films
and performances. Public areas that are usually abandoned, suburban areas
as well as prestigious locations that are part of the city’s historical legacy are
revisited by artists in an original manner. A weekend dedicated to cultural
events, the streets of Rome flood with people and become a center of dialogue
between nations. >>
6 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
Collective Embrace. In Europe the first
“Notte Bianca” was held in Paris, France in the
summer of 2002. By fall of 2003, Rome had already
taken the Parisian example and held its own. Since
2006 other European capitals jumped on the band-
wagon including Brussels, Madrid and Riga with the
objective of sharing artistic events under the title of
“European Notti Bianche.” In 2007, six capitals had
decided to create a collective project that would cre-
ate a space to “lounge” in the heart of a late summer
night and share a cultural opportunity.
The Day Before: “Awaiting…The
White Night.” Beat the crowds. There is no point
in waiting till Saturday to get started on the events.
Friday, September 5 will mark the beginning of
the program under the title “Aspettando…La Notte
Bianca,” a vigil introducing “White Night.”
Professor Valerie Higgins, Chair of Arts and
Humanities at The American University of Rome
(AUR), suggests starting the weekend off early,
“Knowing what you want is a must for these nights.
Log on to the official site (www.lanottebianca.it)
and build your itinerary directly from the there.”
Select shops and restaurants will be
exceptionally opened from 9 P.M. until midnight.
On Saturday events begin at 8 P.M. and end at 8
A.M. Entrance to many participating institutions is
free, though there are some that hold their promo-
tional or market prices.
Looking Back. Under the title “Il Mondo
in una Notte,” last year’s “Notte Bianca”
brought together more than 2.5 million people
(www.reportline.it). Some of the most talked
about displays were the “Maximum Silence”
installation in the Circo Massimo, the video
installation “Time Lines” by Philipp Geist at
Palazzo delle Esposizioni, and Via Veneto’s “Dolce
Vita” evening with singer-songerwriter Lucio Dalla
performing in Villa Borghese.
Walk, Walk, Walk. Getting around will
depend on your legs, feet and agility to get through
the thousands of people walking around the
narrow streets. Atac SpA (Rome’s Public Transport
Service) will provide a non-stop public
transportation service starting 5:00 A.M. on
Saturday until midnight on Sunday. Develop your
route on the Atac official website www.atac.roma.
Be Prepared for the Unexpected. In 2003
a major power outage inaugurated the first Roman
“Notte Bianca.” A storm had destroyed the power
lines from Switzerland to Italy and left Rome’s
eventful night without light for nine hours. The
following two years 04/05 were blessed with un-
wanted rainfall, which greatly affected the
participation of the night. There were also some
unpleasant mishaps in 2007 with the stabbing of
a 20 year old, the breakdown of a tram car which
took two hours to fix and the sequestering of
25,000 illegal bottles of beer being sold on the
streets. Helpful hints: travel using the buddy sys-
tem and check the weather forecast before hitting
Last Minute Itinerary. At sunset head
to Castel Sant’Angelo for an overlook of Rome’s
cityscape. Have an aperitivo on the monument’s
terrace and enjoy the 360 degree view of the eternal
city. Make your way north-east to Piazza del
Popolo where live concerts and performances are
available starting at around 10 P.M. Head south,
down Via del Corso to Piazza del Campidoglio
where the Musei Capitolini are located. These
museums are full of Ancient Roman art includ-
ing the original statue of Marcus Aurelius and the
bronze she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus. Fin-
ish with Piazza Navona, where you can find artistic
exhibitions and performances.
“White Nights” in Europe:
August 25• - Riga -
September 8• - Rome -
September 22• - Madrid -
September 22• - Bucharest -
September 29• - Brussels -
October 6• - Paris -
Piazza della Repubblica
8 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
From the year one-thousand,
jokers and comedians
entertained inhabitants of villages in
the local squares, with satirical and
grotesque acts. Often, language barriers
between the actors and the audience
made comprehension impossible.
Thus, IL GRAMMELOT was born.
It did not use words and
sentences but invented sounds, whose
rhythm and intonation allude to
expressions of colloquial language.
It is a language translated
The sensations, smells and
tastes of wine also
allow people to relate to each other,
interact and communicate.
Wine is an emotion.
Each sip is different from the previous.
It cannot be defined or
enclosed within boudries.
Winery | Enoteca
Via G. Carini 39/39a
Closed Saturday morning
Adark cloaked monk stands erect in Piazza
Campo dei Fiori, Rome. The grim statue of
Giordano Bruno watches the lively crowds in the
piazza on the same spot
where he was burned
at the stake for heresy
about 400 years ago.
This statute is one of
the most recognizable
monuments in Rome.
It also embodies the
spirit of Halloween, a
2,000 year old Celtic
tradition that Italy has
adopted into its culture.
Instead of home to
children in Italy trick-
or-treat from business
to business. Cafés, res-
taurants and hardware
stores expect children
dressed in masks and witch
outfits to walk around the streets of Rome on
October 31. They say “dolcetto scherzetto” (trick-or-
treat) in return for cookies, chocolate or candy.
“It started about ten years ago,” said local bar owner
Marianna Grisci, “we accepted Halloween as a com-
“Italian children requested it and their parents go
along with it.” Grisci said that most Italians didn’t
really know what this tradition symbolized, including
More than 2,000 years ago the Celts lived in the
area that is now Ireland, the United Kingdom, and
northern France. They celebrated their new year on
November 1. This day marked the end of the summer
harvest and the beginning of the dead winter.
The night before (October 31) the Celts celebrated
Samhain, a day when they announced the arrival of
the ghosts believed to destroy their crops. Celts also
thought that these spirits facilitated fortune telling. They
dressed up in animal skins in an attempt to read fortunes
and lit bonfires to steer away spirits that could possess
After the Romans conquered the majority of Celtic
territory, two festivals of Roman origin combined with
Samhain; Feralia and Pomona. The first commemorated
the passing of the dead and the second honored the
Roman goddess of fruit and trees.
Jeremy Prince, 22,
Italian Studies Major at
The American Univer-
sity of Rome (AUR),
studied pagan holidays.
He said that Christian-
ity’s attempt to “clean-
up” pagan holidays
1 as All Saints’ Day, a
time to honor saints and
martyrs. The church
also sanctioned Novem-
ber 2 as All Souls’ Day,
a day to honor the dead.
It was celebrated simi-
larly to Samhain with
bonfires and people
dressing up as saints,
angels and devils.
Grisci explained that Italians primarily celebrate All
Saints’ Day by attending mass and All Souls’ Day is
dedicated to visiting the cemetary. “We clean the tombs
of family members who have passed on and place fresh
flowers near them,” Grisci said.
For a more practical reason, Grisici said that Italians
celebrate All Souls’ Day in November. The tempera-
tures are cooler than the summer months which keep
flowers in the cemetary from decaying quickly.
Descendants of the Celts, Irish immigrants brought their
traditions to the United States of America. Today the
pagan holiday is colorful, complete with costumes,
parties and spiritual references.
In Italy, Halloween doesn’t have much of a cultural
signifance, but it definitely makes its presence at an
aesthetic level. Josephine Scorer, 37, owner of Jose-
phine’s Bakery located in Piazza del Paradiso 56-57,
Rome, said that Italians (children especially) are very
into Halloween desserts.
“We offer mini pumpkin cakes, themed cupcakes
and cookies shaped like bats and ghosts,” she said, “My
birthday also of alls on October 31 so I take this holiday
Halloween in Rome
Celtic Origins, American Materialism & Itlaian Trdition
Two AUR students in Halloween make-up
10 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
Adele Caciula, 23, Italian-American student studying at LUISS
University, said that she celebrates Halloween with her Italian
friends every year.
In 2007 they went to Testaccio to dance, “I wore an orange wig and
makeup this past Halloween. Club Ullalà had happy hour
until 4 AM only for those who dressed up,” she said. Caciula said
that they also stopped at a pub on the same street called On the Rox,
located on via Galvani, 54.
Emily Tipton, 19, went to On the Rox for Halloween. “I
watched the Roma soccer team play a game on the projected screen
with a few friends. After that, a crowd of people dressed up in
costume filled the pub,” she said.
Every year AUR takes steps in offering its students the op-
portunity to celebrate one of their most cherished traditions. The
AUR student Michelle Spaulding, 21, participated in the school
sponsored pumpkin carving contest, “I love it. Especially cleaning
out the insides. I would offer to clean others’ pumpkins because I
enjoyed it so much,” she said. Spaulding said that she missed her
Halloween celebrations at home, “It’s my favorite holiday, so not
having all the trick-or-treaters and decorations everywhere always
bums me out.”
In 2006, students at AUR organized a theme night at
Discoteca New Scarabocchio in Piazza dei Ponziani in Trastevere,
“There was an open bar until mid-night and we gave discounts
to those dressed in costume,” said Michael Park, 23, one of the
“Americans are definitely one of the biggest celebrants of
Halloween, they were the ones dressed up the most,” said Kelsea
Brennan-Wessels, 21, a dancer at Club Gilda on Via Mario de Fiori
“ In Italy, Halloween doesn’t have much of a
cultural signifance, but it definitely makes its
presence at an aesthetic level. ”
“Italians are clueless. The customers of the restaurant next
door saw everyone in costume and asked what was going on and if
these theme parties happened every Wednesday,” Brennan-Wessels
Hard Rock Café located on Via Veneto 62a also takes the
initiative of sponsoring Halloween-themed events every year. “The
restaurant organized a blood drive, children’s games and music
shows which lasted the entire day,” said Marie-Noelle Dragutin, 21.
The Heineken Beer Company also sponsors hundreds of
parties throughout Italy under the title “Heineken Night” on
October 31. Rome hosts its “Mega Party,” an organized theme
party at a discoteque whose venue is unveiled the day of
Halloween on the company web-site.
Every year Halloween is more noticeable in Italian culture
and its influence is evident in the amount of celebrations that occur
throughout the city of Rome. www.halloweenaroma.it provides a
listing of restaurants, discos, pubs and events dedicated to celebrat-
ing October 31 in Rome.
1 1/2 oz. Vodka
3/4 oz. Kahlua
Dash Lemon Juice
Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir gently.
Strain into a highball glass over ice. Garnish with a lemon twist.
Fill a mixing glass with ice.
1 oz. Jägermeister
1 oz. Grenadine
Fill with Orange Juice
Combine all everything in the mixing glass.
Mix well, and serve in a beer mug.
2 oz. Tequila
1/2 oz. Anise Liqueur
(i.e. sambuca, pernod)
1/2 oz. Lemon Juice
Combine Tequila, Anise and Lemon juice in a shaker with ice.
Shake well. Strain into a highball glass over ice. Top with a
splash of club soda.
1 oz. Jack Daniels
1 oz. 151 Bacardi Rum
Fill a shaker with ice, pour the Jack Daniels and 151 Bacardi
Rum into shaker and shake. Strain into a shot glass.
Courtesy of DrinkOfTheWeek.com
Halloween Drinks & Cocktail Recipes
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 11
Rome’s streets are always swarming: tour buses, dump,
tourists in various city hotspots. Vespas and European
compact clown-like cars buzz rapidly around corners and through
crosswalks dodging pedestrians like football running backs
evading tackles; gypsies shuffle through the train stations and
restaurants with open palms exchanging Italian overtures for 10
euro cents, harassing people and breaking boundaries of personal
But when the water stops pumping through la Fontana di
Trevi, when the stores pull their gates and when the gypsies
retreat to their mysterious homes, the streets are blanketed with
a comforting silence. That’s when the cats come out. Decorating
bases of statues, rubbing against the hands of late-night wander-
ers, stalking and prowling through the night are the lionized Cats
About 300,000 stray and abandoned cats inhabit the streets
making them the unofficial rulers of Rome. Many have made
homes of the major monuments due to the fact that they are well
fed and sheltered here. Others are cared for at the Torre Argentina
cat sanctuary, tucked beneath the historical site where Brutus and
his co-conspirators stabbed Julius Caesar in 44 B.C.
I stumbled upon the ruins on my first day in Rome while
exploring with a couple of my roommates. We were snapping
pictures of the temple’s ruins when I noticed cats scattered across
the grounds, sunbathing on large stones and strutting across the
“Look at all the cats!” I exclaimed, elated at the sight due to
the fact that I had a tearful departure from my four cats only a day
It wasn’t until my next visit that I noticed it was an adoption
center for stray and abandoned cats. Down a flight of stairs and
situated underneath the sidewalk, cave-like with low ceilings and
areas where the walls are still bare stone, is the shelter. The main
room is bordered with rows of cages, cat beds cover the tables and
corners, and litter boxes omit odors one would expect with 250 to
300 cats using them.
The cats are every-
where: on the stairs as I enter, in the plants, wandering the ruins,
sitting on the wall ledges watching the people pass, hiding in
cabinets, filling the beds and cages, peering from the corners and
weaving between my legs.
Some are missing limbs or eyes. I see one with a fanatcal puff
of a tail that looked like it exploded. Others are gorgeous pure-
breeds. Some are kittens, wide-eyed and playful, while others are
old, shabby, and indifferent.
The volunteer inside tells me the sanctuary was
started about 16 years prior but has no official license.
“No one ever kicked us out, though. We were doing the city a
service so they just let us be,” she says.
“ About 300,000 stray and abandoned
cats inhabit the streets making them the
unofficial rulers of Rome. ”
by Tess Roth
14 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
In 1929, when excavation be-
gan on Torre Argentina, cats started
taking refuge here because it was be-
low street level. The cats were fed by
women the Romans contemptuously
labeled gattare, or cat ladies. Three
women established the sanctuary in
1995 after gaining resources from
the English organization A.I.S.P.A.
(Anglo-Italian Society for the Protec-
tion of Animals).
Two years prior they had been
working under primitive conditions
in the damp underground-excavated
area with no electricity or running
water and funding everything at their
The sanctuary takes in stray cats
almost every day. Many are abandoned by their owners when
they leave for summer vacation or are dumped off at the shelter
in the middle of the night. Some have even been adopted and then
brought back to the sanctuary. Funded through raffles, fundraisers,
flea market sales and donations, the adoption center feeds, steril-
izes, medicates and vaccinates every cat brought to them.
Fascinated and heartbroken, I bring my friend Carla with me
for another visit. Because it’s close to 11 pm, we stand at the bot-
tom of the steps petting and cooing at the cats surrounding us. A
tiny silver-haired woman comes out carrying a litter box. Her skin
hangs loosely on her jowl and her thick glasses magnify her eyes.
“What are you doing?” she asks with a German accent,
her voice sweet and soothing like a flute but her words slightly
“We were… uh… just petting the cats,” Carla replies as we
prepare to leave. “Is it too late?”
“No, it’s ok. But usually when you come to a place,” she
starts turning to re-entering the sanctuary, “you come inside.”
“Oh!” I say apologizing. “We thought it was too late.”
“Do you like cats?” she asks.
Carla and I nod in unison.
“Then you come inside.”
She starts to prepare a grotesque looking mixture of grains,
water, meat and wet cat food, mixing vigorously for a woman of
her age and small stature. We kneel among the kitties, awwwing
and giggling as they climb into our laps and onto our shoulders.
“Everybody say they love the cats, but no one want to help them,”
the woman sighs.
Carla and I look at each other. “We’ll help!” we agree.
“They can’t even give one day a week,” she continues.
“We’ll help,” we repeat.
She doesn’t believe us, we can tell, but she introduces herself
as Rixa and asks us to come Monday nights around 9 pm.
When we show up the next Monday, a slight smile parts her lips
and she says, “So you came after all.”
We follow her around the sanctuary as she shows us what to
do and where everything is. She leads us to the back storage area,
which is totally dilapidated. The walls and floors are bar stone, no
extra walls have been erected and no temperature control has been
installed. Another collection of cats fill cat beds and small houses
fashioned for a creature of their size. The cats emerge from
hidden crevices and secret passageways, scrutinizing our move-
ments and ducking from our outstretched palms.
The sanctuary is separated into spaces. The back storage
room and another small area in the center of the ruins next to the
exact spot where Brutus betrayed Caesar house many of the shy,
nervous or reserved cats.
The main room keeps all the well-behaved and well-com-
posed cats, while the second room, divided by a jail cell-like gate,
holds the cats that can’t roam freely due to blindness (one has two
missing eyes) or ignorance to traffic.
Behind this room is a secret room blocked off by a set of
cages, which have to be moved in order to enter.
This room accommodates the sick and injured. It’s a small, pri-
vate area removed from the incessant talking of the other cats, but
retains a desolate, distressing atmosphere.
“ Funded through raffles, fundraisers,
flea market sale and donations, the
adoption center feeds, sterilizes,
medicates and vaccinates every cat
brought to them. ”
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 15
Via Oderisi Da Gubbio 66, 00146 Roma
These cats have raw wounds and horrible infections,
and many of them don’t like our intrusion of their space, flatten-
ing their ears and crouching low when we enter. Some hiss and
swat ferociously when we reach for the litter. We learn which
cages to leave for the morning shift.
Bigiu (pronounced Bee-jew) always tries to get in to this
room, waiting by the door for her chance to slide between our feet
and terrorize the less fortunate. Bigiu is chunky and stout striped
mutt with anger management issues. She walks around growling
and yowling like someone is constantly standing on her tail.
She threateningly makes eye contact and swats at anyone
in her way, including sweet Lorenzo, the oversized longhaired
tuxedo cat that quietly minds his own business and smiles when
we scratch his ears. Even though some of the cats don’t want to
be bothered, none respond like Bigiu.
Some are tranquil and unphased by our presence; others
just make it clear they don’t want to be touched. Most love the
attention, like Phantom, a tiger-striped beauty with a protrud-
ing muzzle. He won’t hesitate to climb in my lap as soon as I
kneel and nuzzle affectionately under my armpits so I can’t bring
myself to put him down.
Pirate is all gray with fangs that extend over his bottom lip
and one eye where the socket has been cleanly covered with fur.
He waits calmly for attention, lingering around our workspaces.
Baghera is the enormous panther-like black cat that silently
watches the world from her master suite-sized cage offering
barely audible meows in exchange for love. She shares a room
with Hugo, the white teen kitty with black spots.
He reaches out for us as we pass and tilts his head broken-
heartedly if we pay too much attention to his kitten neighbors. He
loves to curl into our necks and promptly attaches himself to our
sleeves climbing across our shoulders if we try to put him back.
Caravaggio is missing both eyes, but boldly loiters at our
feet as we work sniffing at the air and listening for any sudden
movements. “Blind but still beautiful,” says Rixa, leaning to
scratch his head but letting him sniff her hand beforehand so she
doesn’t startle him.
Rixa has been at the sanctuary “the longest of them all!”
she says. She struggles due to the lack of help. There are usually
about three volunteers during the day and two at night, but often
Rixa works alone. “It’s nice to have the help,” she says to Carla
and me. “And the company.”
Occasionally there are late-night last minute visitors who
wander in. Three young girls in their early twenties enter like
they’ve been here before.
“Where’s Honey?” she says scouring the room. “Is this her?
I think this is her,” she points to a longhaired orange cat that
wriggles free and scrambles away when the girl picks her up. “I
almost adopted you,” she says scolding the animal. “Don’t be
mean to me.”
“ Everyone says they love the cats...
but no one wants to help them. ”
When I ask her why she didn’t adopt Honey, whose real
name is Andromeda, she says that her application was denied.
She lives in Rome but she is a student and, even though there are
close to 300 cats that need homes, the standards are rigorous, as
they want to be sure the cats get the care and attention they need
She asks if we volunteer at the sanctuary and says that she
visits often. “Maybe I should volunteer here. I love cats.”
“You should,” I say. “They could use the help.”
“But what do you guys do?” she asks watching me sift
through a heavily soiled litter box. “Just… that?”
“Well, yeah and change the water and stuff.”
“Oh, I don’t think I could do that,” she says screwing up her
face. “I just want to, like, hang out with them.” She leans down to
pet one of the cats as it passes her.
I shrug at her disappointedly. “Everyone says they love the
cats,” I think. “But no one wants to help them.”
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 17
An Entrepreneur’s Story
by Michael Maury
Among the boutiques and cafes near Campo dei Fiori lies a
pastry shop specializing in international desserts. Its owner,
ex-model Josephine Scorer, 37, bases its success on her desire to
provide Rome with quality food and experiences that could recall
her relationship with beauty, art, taste and fashion.
Located in Paradise Plaza (Piazza del Paradiso 56-57), a
light smell of frosting led pedestrians into Josephine’s Bakery. Its
windows and interior shelves were decorated with photographic
cook books, layered, pastel colored wedding cakes and a glass
covered display counter filled with cupcakes, chocolate chip
cookies, brownies and New York style cheesecake.
Josephine stood over the softly lit counter. Her dark
hazel complexion and brown hair emphasized her soft facial
contours. She acknowledged my presence, “Hello Michael
please have a seat. I’ll be with you in two seconds,” and finished
packing a box of desserts for a client.
She was dressed in dark grey pants, a wool sweatshirt, heels
and a smile. Interviewed by other magazines including Vogue,
Where and Glamour, her relaxed pose meant she was used to it.
Josephine was adopted at six weeks by an English father
and Australian mother. Middle school choir and baking with her
mother and father sparked an innate passion for the arts. She was
raised in Eaton, London through university.
After receiving a degree in English literature, Josephine
spread her wings. In 1993 she decided to satisfy her innermost
desire to live in Italy, “It’s easy to fall in love with the art and
food,” she said.
Young and unemployed, Josephine found herself in the just
out-of-college situation. “What could I do?,” she asked herself.
18 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
She took advantage of her five foot, 10 inch height, 54
kilogram weight and West-Indie features and started modeling
in Milan, accepting any offer, from editorial photo shoots to the
She soon left it for something different, “Modeling I enjoyed,
but it wasn’t a passion. I’m restless. I wanted something more
stimulating and not base my career on looks,” Josephine admitted.
Before leaving the modeling business, Josephine interned at
television stations, working as an assistant and translator on set,
“I also did a lot of freelance work including teaching English,”
she said. According to Josephine, the entertainment industry runs
on a meritocracy, “You have to be open to do anything and if you
are quick and proactive enough you’ll get what you deserve.”
First impressions are the ones that last and Josephine
completely agrees with that, “Apart from being at the right place
at the right time and taking advantages of opportunities, you need
to do great when you’re given your first lead.” She eventually
became a producer for Sky T.V. for three years before leaving the
business and starting her own.
“ I wanted something more stimulating and
not base my career on looks. ”
Apart from Josephine’s love for art and beauty she started
her bakery for three primary reasons. She was into gastronomy,
“I originally thought I could own a small restaurant,” she said.
Josephine realized that Rome lacked this type of bakery, “ I
wanted to provide Rome with more of, what Italians call, an
Anglo-Saxon cuisine.” She wanted to create a business that
resembled a boutique, “I wanted to combine the ideas I had of
style and quality into a product I knew and valued,” she said.
Self taught, Josephine was a little intimidated about start-
ing her own bakery. She tested her skills on a small circle of
clients while still working at Sky Satellite Television, “I brought
in different desserts for my colleagues to try. They eventually
requested personalized desserts and it snowballed from their,” she
Today she works with two other specialized chefs who have
an extensive background in international pastry. They work
on-site, creating everything by hand and use organic ingredients
Josephine confessed that starting a business in Italy is very
difficult, “You have to be very patient. To overcome the
obstacles you need to be focused and convinced that what you
are doing is a passion.” She explains that the Italian Chamber of
Commerce put her through a series of courses that taught her and
other entrepreneurs how to run their own business, “Even though
these courses were obligatory they were extremely useful,” she
said, “they taught me how to deal with legal matters, something
that becomes important when people try to tell you how to run
your business,” Josephine added.
Italians were originally skeptical about the future of
her bakery. Eventually they became her biggest clients, especially
those who travel and are familiar with the non-Italian flavors.
Josephine said that Italians are very into Halloween. Her
birthday falls on the October 31st, so she takes special pride in
the day. Her bakery creates mini pumpkin cakes in a variety of
flavors, themed cookies and pumpkin and pecan pies to celebrate
Thanksgiving. “Surprisingly Italians aren’t into baked goods for
St. Valentine’s or Easter,” she said, “Italians are very set in their
ways and some things are difficult to introduce into their culture,”
Josephine’s Bakery has been running for about two and a
half years now and it’s self sufficient. Josephine travels back and
forth from London to Rome, primarily to take care of bills, pay
roll and publicity for the bakery. The bakery hasn’t affected her
physic much since her modeling career, “You actually lose weight
in a bakery. There’s a lot of moving around. Life is also a lot
less stressful in the food industry as opposed to the entertainment
one,” Josephine said.
The bakery is lucrative and Josephine confesses that it’s a
definate ego boost. “I wanted to open a shop in Rome where
Romans could find something that tasted good, but that also
looked beautiful. A place where people could taste desserts that
would give something the heart and eyes could feast on before
they even reached the palate,” she said.
Now that Josephine has charmed the hearts of
Italians she would like to take her bakery to London. Even
though the competition is greater she believes she can break
through. Already negotiating for a prime location in the center
she plans to open the bakery in January 2009.
“Unfortunately Italy is a limited society especially in
business,” she said. Josephine said that she was tired of working
around Italian bureaucracy and will concentrate more on opening
another nine stores around the world.
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 19
PHILADELPHIA UNIVERSITY FASHION TIPS
22 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
“Made in Italy” is a metaphor for fashion and quality. A group of
students from Philadelphia University travel to The American University
of Rome every fall semester to build their portfolios and seek further
inspiration. Here are some of their sketches and comments on spending a
few months in the fashion capital of the world.
WHAT INSPIRES YOUR CREATIONS?
Always look at the younger, hippier kids. The ones with style unlike
everyone else. They are the ones that really start trends.
~ Kathleen Gillespie
Music is a huge inspiration, just because it’s such a great part of my
life. My collection for fall is mainly inspired by the Art Deco period, the
Great Depression and Gothic architecture.
~ Carrie Hansen
Usually magazines start our inspirations with seeing what’s out in
the market and in fashion. We always look to high name designers for
ideas (Gucci, Prada, Dior).
~ Amanda Mastranduono
FASHION SUGGESTIONS FOR
Boots all the way. They make a simple outfit look so much better.
Heel, flat, they’re all good.
~ Shannon Staffieri
Wool peacoats are definately an in as well as bulky sweaters. Also
layersing is a current trend that keeps you warm!
~ Simone Kettell
There is definately not one right answer, but trends for fall include
oversized knits and scarves, purples, greys, high waisted pants and a
refined appearence. In the end though I believe fashion is about self
expression, not the trends themselves.
~ Carrie Hansen
ARE ITALIANS FASHION CONSCIOUS?
Yes! They are always dressed so nice. I feel bad when I wear some-
thing that is not as nice. They definately know how to dress. Some of
the heels they wear in the city are crazy!
~ Shannon Staffieri
Most definately! Italians have style like no one else. Its always New
York, Paris, Milan, but in NY women still wear sweats. Paris they look
casual but nicely put together. In Milan every woman looks glamorous.
~ Kathleen Gillespie
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 23
The Italians are very fashion oriented,
especially the men when compared to
Americans. It is great to see that no
matter their size, gender, or age, they dress
~ Alyssa Pittenger
They aren’t as in your face fashion of
London but everyone is always dressed
nicely. No sweatpant days!
~ Simone Kettell
Overall I feel that Italians are stylish
but not original in their day to day wear.
From what I have seen of streetwear, they
play it safe and stick to classic shapes and
dark colors. Couture and high-end
designers push boundries, but doesn’t show
up in day to day life.
~ Carrie Hanse
Dress to impress. Don’t walk around
the city looking like a slob. Leave that for
home. Dress to fit in. They have amaz-
ing style, why wouldn’t you want to dress
like them? Buy clothes/shoes here! They’re
amazing and you won’t get them back
~ Shannon Staffieri
Always wear cute shoes. Even if they
don’t match, you will still look Italian.
~ Amanda Mastranduono
Shop down the little alleys and in
unsuspected places. That is where you
find the most interetsing shops and designs.
~ Alyssa Pittenger
“ Italians are always ‘done’ down to the last
detail. They care a lot about their appearance
and though it’s not based on originality, it’s a
sophisticted look. ” ~ Carrie Hansen
24 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
Via di Monteverde, 40/40a
Students of The American
University of Rome (The AUR)
are not satisfied with their housing
arrangements. They believe the
accommodations are crammed and
not worth the cost. Resident students
of The AUR accuse their university
of exploiting student finances. What
students do not know is that their
university does quite the opposite.
Prior to the year 2000, The AUR
students were lodged in residen-
cies outside of Rome’s city center.
“These buildings accommodated
students like a dormitory,” said Rosa
Fusco, Director of Computer Services
at The AUR since 1992, “and because
of their location, the university
provided students with a shuttle
service to and from the university
campus,” Fusco continued. At the
turn of the millennium, as The AUR
enrollment increased, the university
moved students into apartments
closer to the campus.
Over the past eight years, in
collaboration with a few real estate
agencies, The AUR has created a
Today, students choose between a standard housing
option (Casa Romana) and a standard +5 (plus five)
benefits package (Casa Romana Cinque in Più).
Students who chose standard university facilitated
housing are placed in furnished apartments located in
Italian apartments and condominiums. This is well
suited for students looking for a “full immersion”
These two to three bedroom apartments are
equipped with basic furnishings and supplies including
a single bed per occupant, linens and kitchenware and
are located within walking distance or near public
transit routes relative to the university.
The plus five housing option offers additional
services including Monday through Saturday cleaning
services, health club membership, continental breakfast
(six days a week), television and satellite subscription
and daily newspaper delivery. More information on
The AUR housing can be found on the university
The cost per student for apartment rental (per
semester) averages to 3, 645 Euro (5,195 U.S. dollars)
for the standard and an extra 800 Euro (1140 U.S.
dollars) for the plus five option. Students are therefore
paying roughly 900 Euro (1, 200 U.S. dollars) per
month for four months.
The AUR resident students who have had experi-
ence with the Italian real estate market believe uni-
versity facilitated housing is too expensive. Michelle
Spaulding, 20, lived in standard student housing for
a semester before finding her current living situation.
“I chose to move out because I thought I could save
money by finding independent housing,” she said, “ I
found the apartment I’m living in now through another
AUR student who was leaving Rome. I pay 550 Euro
utilities included,” Spaulding continued.
Students also use websites like www.por-
taportese.it or www.craigslist.org and advertisements
posted on The AUR campus to find their altenate
“ ...students who have had
experience with the Italian real estate
market believe university
facilitated housing is
too expensive. ”
THE AUR HOUSING
by Michael Maury
26 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
Tickets for Teatro dell’Opera
Piazza Beniamino Gigli, 1-00184 Roma
Tel. 064-816-0255/064-817-003 - Fax 064-881-755
Box Office opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday 9-5 PM
Sunday from 9-1:30; closed on Monday and Festivities
Online purchase: www.vivaticket.it | www.helloticket.it
Below 25 and over 65 year olds receive a 30% discount
“I agree, our cost per bed for three months is on average
more than what the market can offer,” said Chief Financial Officer
of The AUR, Giancarlo Cerchiara. “The cost of housing covers
a wide range of expenses, including rent for when the apartments
are vacant in between semesters,” he continued.
The cost of university facilitated housing also fluctuates from
year to year due to currency exchange and two percent yearly
Cerchiara said that the university is a non-profit organiza-
tion. It subsidizes the cost of the apartments to make them more
affordable for students, “Our goal is make our university more
convenient and appealing to students,” he said, “If we wanted to
make a profit off of the apartments we would start our own real-
Primarily two real estate agencies manage The AUR housing
program, Your Place in Rome and the International Initiatives
Company (ICI). These agencies scout for apartments, contract
them out to the university, furnish them and are responsible for
maintaining a qualitative standard for students.
Elizabeth Petterson and co-owner Alessandro DeFilippo, run
Your Place in Rome real estate, located on Viale di Villa Pamphili,
212. In 2007, after working for ICI for 11 years, Petterson and
DeFilippo decided to establish their own real estate agency.
Petterson had studied in Rome for university and understands how
frustrating university housing can be. She knew what students
were looking for.
“I was lodged in a 100 square meter apartment with 12
other girls and we had to share a restroom and a half,” Petterson
said. Petterson and DeFilippo strive to find reliable owners and
increase apartment quality standard to satisfy student expectations
by providing them with apartments rather than merely student
lodging.R Housing Population
The real estate agencies are the liaison between the students,
their neighbors and the university. Each student apartment is
linked both electronically (via instant messaging) and telephoni-
cally to the real estate agency. Any problem, question in regards
to maintenance or other issue that might arise during the occu-
pancy is taken care of by these methods.
According to Petterson, the apartment rental price depends
on the land lord mark-up, “Unfortunately many owners take
advantage of our offers and increase their minimum rent per
student,” said Petterson. The established price also covers the
renovation costs that occur after each semester. “It is difficult to
give owners a high standard for maintaining their apartments, so
we do our best to maintain ours,” said Petterson.
The apartments’ rooms are usually double occupancy. Stu-
dents are not provided with compatibility surveys to match room-
mates but they may request to board with specific others. Kathy
Bemis, Coordinator of Housing Services at The AUR, discourages
this because she believes this approach pulls friends apart, “In
the past we’ve had friends pair up but they ended up hating each
other because they were too alike,” Bemis said.
“ If we wanted to make
a profit off of the apartments we
would start our own
real-estate agency. ”
Jeremy Prince, 22, transferred to The AUR in the fall of 2006
from the State University of New York (SUNY). For his first
semester, he was placed in a standard apartment with five other
transfer students (mostly upper classmen) and shared a room with
the only freshman. Prince said that it was strange to live with
someone who was so new to college life, “In my old school you
had younger and older student dorms. This made it easier to get
through the shock of living in a different setting,” he said.
Bemis said she does take age and ethnicity into consideration
when pairing roommates and believes that mismatching encour-
ages diversity and helps students to compromise their skills.
Housing Services also mentioned that the female percentage com-
pared to that of males at The AUR is much higher. Sometimes the
limited number of males restricts the flexibility in pairing male
Fall 2007 Spring 2008
Study Abroad 293 366
Resident 39 16
Total 332 382
Italian “For Rent” Sign
AUR Housing Occupancy
28 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
Overall, Prince enjoyed his stay in
student housing. “There was no real way
around housing because I couldn’t find an
apartment for a million reasons, including
language barriers” he said. “Hous-
ing was beneficial because I got
to meet many people but it would
have helped if we had someone to
help us integrate more into the Ro-
A few years ago, in an at-
tempt to answer to this problem,
Bemis started a resgrad (resident-
graduate) program at The AUR.
University alumni and upper-
classmen are eligible for free
housing in exchange for assisting
enrolled students with housing
arrangements. Bemis said that it
is important to keep and maintain
a respectable and trusting rapport with
the neighbors of the university facilitated
housing. “The resgrad students help keep
an eye on the sometimes lively housing
students,” Bemis said. Resgrads also host
cooking lessons and plan inexpensive day
trips, introducing new students to Roman
On average, new resident students
spend at least one semester in The AUR
facilitated housing arrangements. Bemis
believes that housing is an almost neces-
sary step for students because it provides
students’ parents with a piece of mind.
Astrid Chitou, 21, lodged in The AUR
housing arrangements for about a year
and a half. She admitted that she enjoyed
her apartment, especially for its proxim-
ity to campus, but she did not choose to
stay. Her father was convinced that is was
a better option, “He believed there would
be less trouble with landlords and a better
track record of the finances,” said Chitou.
Chitou left The AUR housing because
of a problem many students face when
transitioning between semesters, check out
dates and luggage. To allow the housing
agencies enough time to clean up
the apartments before the following
semester, students are asked to move
out the day after finals.
“I really didn’t like the pressure that
was put on me in terms of the check
out dates,” Chitou said. Chitou
would like to see the university
provide some sort of storage arrange-
ment for returning resident students.
The AUR facilitated housing is a
definate advantage for students who
are new to the Italian culture. It is an
easy way to integrate and become a
part of the university community.
Students should also consider
indipendent housing if they feel like they
are comfortable enough with the Italian
language and housing lifestyle.
Bedroom in a typical AUR housing arrangement
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 29
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 31
STUDENT LIFEAT THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME
Student Life Office
When Roman life gets tough, this office is here to help center.
Conveniently located on the ground floor of Building A at AUR, the
Student Life Office is a source of general inforrmation, advice and
guidance for students new to intercultural living.
The Student Services Coordinators arrange the travel plans for
field trips and events in conjunction with the academic departments.
Popular destinations include Pompei, Capri and even Moscow, Russia!
They provide students a chance to learn through extra-curricular,
non-academic activities and interaction with the Italian community.
The office also hosts various events on campus including pumpkin
carving for Halloween, Easter egg painting and Thanksgiving dinner.
This office also has the AUR lost-and-found.
Check out the Student Services calendar on the offical Univeristy
website (www.aur.edu) to find out about upcoming events.
The AUR’s Student Government (AURSG) is a great
way for you to actively contribute to the growth and
development of the University. In regular meetings with the
administration and faculty, student officers represent the student
body in discussions on the academic and administrative aspects
of the university.
Also, the AURSG serves the university community by
responding to concerns and opinions regarding academics,
physical plant and all other aspects of student life at AUR. It
provides leadership opportunities for fellow students, and
encourages participation within the community through club,
charity events and sports teams.
AURSG’s objectives and goals strive to enhace the
quality of student life at AUR by establishing fundraising
initiative, expediting AUR’s accreditation process, maintaining
student represenation on varoius university committees and
promoting the AUR image in the community.
The AURSG office is located on the bottom floor in Building B
With no more than 550 students per semester, The American
University of Rome (AUR) has a small yet active community.
Students and faculty have come together to form seven clubs
and various sports teams including a club for every department
and one male and female soccer team. Participation in these
organizations is open and encouraged to both resident and study
abroad students of any discipline with good academic standing.
For more detailed information visit the offical site for student
life at AUR (www.aur.edu/life).
OFFICE OPENING HOURS
Director of Student Life
James H. Lynch, Jr.
AURSG Mr. AUR - Talent Show 2007
AUR students in Moscow, Russia
32 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
WOLVES - AUR’s male soccer team
(the Wolves) participated for the first
time in the CAMPIONATO DI CALCIO
DELLE UNIVERSITA’ ROMANE, a
newly founded intercollegiate tournament
sponsored by the municipality of Rome in
the 2005 Fall semester,.
Today, the Wolves still play in this
tournament which launches, every cal-
endar year, in October and ends in May.
7 Roman universities – AUR, Erasmus,
JCU, LUISS, La Sapienza, Roma Tre and
University of Malta – compete for the
SHE WOLVES - The Spring 2006
semester marked the arrival of the first
female soccer team at AUR, the She
Wolves. Tryouts started in the second
week in January and the turnout was
impressive. Over 25 girls showed up to
the first practice, which are held twice
With the support and encouragement
of the Student Services coordinators, the
AUR She Wolves were born and are still
The She Wolves compete in the
PRIMO CAMPIONATO DI CALCETTO
FEMMINILE DELLE UNIVERSITA’
ROMANE, the first intercollegiate wom-
en’s five-on-five tournament sponsored by
the municipality of Rome.
Tryouts for the Wolves and She
Wolves is held at the beginning of every
fall semester. Both residents and study-
abroad students are eligible to play.
For those of you who would like to
simply watch and support the teams, there
is a private bus available that leaves from
the Archi Bar to take fans to the fields.
The buses leave at 7.15 PM. Check
the Student Services bulletin board for
For more information on soccer,
please contact Studet Services coordinator
Stefano Stoppaccioli at s.stoppaccioli@
The Business club was the first club estab-
lished at AUR by a group of business students in
2003. The club plans many events and field trips
such as the Annual Business Etiquette seminar
and trip to Rome’s Expo Center. The club’s first
major project was to redesign the AUR logo.
The club also applies business strategies for their
monthly AUR merchandise sales.
Business club at email@example.com
Reach Out Club
Founded in 2006, the Reach Out Club
devotes their time to raising money through vari-
ous fundraising activities for nonprofit organiza-
tions and charities around the globe.UNICEF,
Habitat for Humanity, The Cape Coast School
for the Deaf in Ghana, and Caritas are few of the
organizations. The club works within the AUR
Community to raise money and awareness for
Reach Out at firstname.lastname@example.org
The Italian Studies Club at AUR is spon-
sored by its department. Striving to get a more
accurate feel for Italian life than is provided by
just visiting the museums and historical sites, the
club tries to get more involved with the Italian
community. Activities include evening get-
togethers with Italians to practice speaking the
language, learning Italian card games and local
cultural field trips.
Italian Club at email@example.com
Started in the Spring semester of 2006 by
Professor Timothy Martin, the ever-changing
group of singers, organizes a recital at the end
of each semester. They like to offer a varied
program with ensemble pieces as well as indivial
solos and diversed genres from Opera to contem-
porary music. Usually they perform along with
Prof. Martin’s Gospel Choir.
Vocal Ensemble at firstname.lastname@example.org
Business Club officers 2006-2007
Reach Out Members 2007-2008
2007 Gospel Choir
Italian Club-Card Night
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 33
by Alexandra Nardi
Oh Rome! What a beautiful, romantic, civilized city!
Let’s back up a second. That’s not what I thought
when I arrived. In fact, my first thought was, “What a
Let’s face it—Rome is dirty. The streets are covered
with trash and human pee, and that lovely river that flows
through it is also a breeding ground for nutria (those rats
the size of dogs). And the smells… Rome is home to many
smells, none of which are really pleasant apart from the
natural smells in Villa Pamphili or Villa Borghese where
the bushes moan and groan with pleasure.
Let’s not forget Rome’s modern architecture. Take
for example, the Pantheon. Now, the Pantheon is a beauti-
ful example of Roman architecture, but it’s charm is cut in
half by the McDonald’s parked across the street. Instead of
smelling musky and damp like other historical buildings,
the Pantheon smells of grease and burgers.
So why do I call Rome my home? Why, after
stepping in dog crap so many times, or rarely landing a
public bathroom with toilette paper, am I complelled to
stay here? Well, I can’t really put my finger on it…there’s
just something about this city. Even the disgusting trash
on the street, and the occasional sight of a homeless man
taking a dump are part of Rome’s lure.
It was the uncleanliness of the city that made me
hate Rome when I first arrived, but it seems that unceanli-
ness is really one of the reasons I stayed. It’s like having
my cake and eating it too.
Let me explain my affection for Rome’s dirt a little
better. I am in a historical city, where every building is a
landmark and every cobblestone has a recorded history.
Therefore, to act accordingly I should always have my
intelligent, sophisticated side exposed. I should constantly
be going to museums, and churches, and plays. But no
one really wants to do that all day, with the exception of a
few academics who live for it. And that’s where the trash
comes in. It makes the city real and thriving, and not just
some historical exhbition meant to be looked at but not
touched. Instead it becomes mine, ours.
And so, we all lament when we can’t fit our trash into
the overflowing trash bins, and we laugh at the snail pace
of the grabage men (hey, at least we don’t live in Naples).
But we are also grateful to the garbage men and the city
for embracing what some call,
“La Vita Bella,” and doing just enough to not get fired.
Without its trash, Rome would be a giant museum—imper-
sonal and functional. And it’s common knowledge that no
one moves to Rome for functionality.
34 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
Italians are famous for their mouth-
watering cooking. This in itself can inspire almost any
college student to abandon the microwave and make time
for regular trips to the grocery store.
When I first moved to Rome, however, I was
surprised and disappointed by the sparse selection in my
downtown supermarket. There was nothing super about
it. The produce section was all-in-all overripe, the poultry
was nearly bought out, and even my frozen food safety
zone had nothing to offer.
Tucked between the winding back streets of the
city center are large piazzas, home to the charming open
-air markets. These are the hot spots for locals, who
spend their mornings choosing the perfect eggplant and
socializing with the vendors. Here you can choose from an
abundance of nearly any fruit, vegetable or meat your heart
desires, an array of fresh flowers and other useful odds and
by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels
When arriving in Campo De’Fiori (literally “Field of
Flowers”) do not expect a pastoral setting. You will find a statue in
the piazza raised in memory of Giordano Bruno, a philosopher, who
was burned at the stake in 1600 for “heresies” against the Catholic
The piazza is a lively hub in the historic center of Rome. It
is best known for its morning market of high quality flowers and
vegetables which are sold at reasonable prices. In the afternoon
and evening, the vendors leave the piazza to the surrounding bars
and restaurants. There are also many quality clothing stores on the
roads that lead into the piazza.
Open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm
From AUR : Take bus # 44 towards Pz. Venezia to Via Dandolo.
Turn right on Via Glorioso. Take tram # 8 towards Argentina to the
Arenula stop and walk down Via dei Giubonari.
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 37
VIA DEL VASCELLO
This is definately one of the smallest markets in The
American University of Rome campus area but it is also the
closest. Extremely convenient for students who don’t have the
time to go to any other market in the mornings.
There are a maximum of seven stands open at a time. Fruits
and vegetables are sold and there are also butcher and fish stands.
A ferramenta (hardware store) and forno (bakery) are also
located on the same street as the market.
From AUR : Walk down Carini and turn right on Via Giovanni
Livraghi (the street after Simone’s Pizzeria)
VIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA NICCOLINI
This market holds everything from fresh produce to clothes.
Quiet and spacious, it is recognizable for its proximity to the
church of Santa Maria Regina Pacis and a large taxi stand.
Both markets open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm
From AUR : Walk down Via Carini to Pz. Rosolino Pilo
PIAZZA SAN COSIMATO
Most recognizable for its renovated (almost futuristic)
stands, the market of San Cosimato is unique for its slow pace.
Very spacious and modern, this market offers little variety but
high quality fruits and vegetables. There is also a lovely flower
stand at the northern corner of the market (flower stand is open
Drogheria Innocenzi, located on Via Natale del Grande #66
leading into the piazza, is a well known international food store.
The store sells everything from Asian spices to peanut butter.
Be aware that the products might be a little pricey.
Both markets open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm
From AUR : Take bus # 44 towards Pz. Venezia or bus # 75
towards Indipendenza to the Via Dandolo stop. Walk down 100
meters to Piazza San Cosimato.
Fresh fish at the Niccolini market
San Cosimato market
Take it from those who
have lived here the longest.
Various students and faculty
members have uncovered the
best “locali” (restaurants,
bars and clubs) in the vicinity
of The American University
of Rome. Sit down, relax and
ROME’S CITY CENTER, MONTEVERDE & TRASTEVERE
by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels, Caitlin Foley, Michael Maury, Rosi Mosca-Herrera
40 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
Coming Out Pub
Dinner and DeceptioN
by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels
Tourists pay more than the locals. I like to spend the occa-
sional afternoon at one particular bar in Campo de’ Fiori. In the past,
they charged me €4 for a lemon soda. Now that I’m recognized and
friendly with the staff, a glass of their best red wine and an iced cap-
puccino costs €4 ...quite the difference!
Dealing with Romans is like attempting to belong to an exclu-
sive club. Those who speak the dialect flawlessly are immediately
accepted. Everyone else has to put in his time.
The best way to avoid being cheated out of a good meal or a
good price is to either go to the restaurant or bar with someone who
knows the owner, or get taken advantage of enough times at the same
place that they eventually recognize you and start to treat you better.
It’s all about being a part of the family.
I was serving in a restaurant that offered different quality foods
to different nationalities. At the beginning of the night, the head chef
would tell me, “The fish of the day is the same fish as yesterday. If an
Italian asks you, we don’t have it. If a foreigner asks you, let’s get rid
When my 100% Roman boyfriend and I go out to eat I let him
do all of the ordering. He gets very insulted if the waiter speaks to us
What’s my advice to the average tourist looking for a real good
meal in Rome? Stay out of the center. Get away from the tourist
menus and English-speaking staff. It’s hard to find a bad restaurant in
Italy if you’re in the small towns or outskirts. A foreigner will take
them by surprise as opposed to convincing them to dilute pasta sauce.
A traditional Italian restaurant, it
is impressive for the quality of its
food. While Al Pao is known for its
pizza, its pasta and other fried food
dishes are also worth trying.The
prices are average and the decor is
simple and modern.
Piazza ottavilla 14/a
Tel: 06 5818413
This restaurant has an
English speaking staff which
will go out its way to make
you feel at home. The decor
is slightly whimsical and
romantic. It has the best
atmosphere to enjoy a tradi-
tional Italian meal. The food
is slightly gourmet style and
the desserts are to die for!
Viale Trastevere 130
Tel: 06 5800971
HARD ROCK CAFE’
While Hard Rock is on the touristy
side, you really can’t compete with
its American fare and atmosphere. If
you’re craving a big burger, french
fries, complete with an English
speaking staff and great music,
Hard Rock is the place to be.
Via Vittorio Veneto 62 a/b
Tel: 06 4203051
Serving traditional Italian fare, this
restaurant atmosphere is laid-back
and cozy, and the staff is accommo-
dating. The antipasti are particularly
worthwhile, as is the house wine.
The menu is simple. There is some-
thing to satisfy a variety of palettes.
Tel: 06 5746253
Restaurant with a homely atmo-
sphere offering specialities from
Thai and Indonesian cuisine. The
peanut sauce with cucumbers is
delicious. Treat the staff well and
they might receive a complimentary
bottle of wine!
Via Ozanam 94
Tel: 06 58203145
A delicious Chinese restau-
rant located in the heart of
Trastevere. The prices are
extremely cheap, and the
quality and portions of the
food are definitely worth
your money. The dumplings
are reminiscent of those you
might find in Chinatown in
New York City.
Via Fonte D’Olio 6
Tel: 06 5813930
This take-away pizza shop
is one of the best in Rome.
There are a wide variety of
toppings and a few side dish-
es including fried food and
veggies. Make sure to have
their suppli, a deep-fried rice
ball with tomatoe sauce and
cheese. It’s to die for!
Via Giacinto Carini 50
Tel: 06 5814980
Craving something satisfying
after a long night out? Then
this sandwich place is the
place to be. The sandwich
combinations on the menu
satisfy a range of tastes or
simply create your own from
a range of delicious
ingredients to stuff your
fresh ciabatta bun.
Piazza Campo de’Fiori
Tel: 06 58335530
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 41
Ci Lin Chinese Restaurant
The Italian ‘Mac’N’Cheese”
by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels
American college kids don’t always have time to cook. Between study-
ing for exams, classes and enjoying the “college experience,” the normal
weeknight meal is two minutes in the microwave.
That’s a little hard if you live in a country where KRAFT Macaroni and
Cheese doesn’t exist and microwaves are not common. Pizza gets old after
the first two weeks and the Chinese take-out can start to burn a hole in your
So, what’s for dinner? Cacio e Pepe.
It’s quick, it’s easy, and it’s the closest thing that you’re going to get to
good old mac and cheese.
Made from the Roman staples (pasta, olive oil, pecorino cheese, parme-
san cheese, salt and pepper), it is the best dish for those days when you have
“nothing in the house.”
Ingredients: 2 tbsp. salt, 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, 300 grams of pasta
(preferably spaghetti or rigatoni), 50 grams grated pecorino cheese, 50 grams
grated parmesan cheese, 1 tbsp. ground black pepper
1) Bring a pot of water to a boil and add salt.
2) Drop in the pasta.
3) When the pasta is al dente, drain the water and return the pasta to the pot.
4) Add olive oil, the grated cheeses and pepper. Stir.
Hint - If it comes out chunky add more oil (or a spoonful of the pasta water)
Also known as the “love
wine place,” this student ori-
ented pub is has the cheapest
beer and wine. It is known
for its great (and cheap)
selection of large sandwiches
and fresh salads. It is popular
among students who want to
hang out and watch sporting
events on the big screen.
Via delle Paste 110 A
This Japanese restaurant is
elegant and romantic. There
is a floor sitting area in the
back that you can reserve to
have an authentic Japanese
meal experience. Try the
ginger or the green tea ice-
cream after your meal. Sushi
doesn’t get better than this.
Viale Trastevere 4
Tel: 06 5810075
Seating 90 people, this cozy
spot is just off of Campo
de’Fiori. This place has the
feel of an undiscovered
secret for its location. They
do not have a house wine
but his bar/pub is great for
after dinner drinks or shots.
Fondue is served at night.
Via dei Cappellari 28
This Egyptian/, Middle
Eastern and Lebanese foo
shop is considered a “hidden
treasure.” Food is hand-made
using orginal spices and
recipes. Everything is from
fresh, from the pita bread
to the desserts. Find Greek
specialities here too.
Via del Gallo 11
Tel: 06 6879061
This restaurant special-
izes in salads. There
are over 20 different
combinations to choose
from. There is also a
great selection of typical
pizzas and pasta dishes.
The house wine is also
very tasty. Prices are quite
Via G. Garibaldi, 8
Tel: 06 58300096
If you’re looking for a
place to find a decent
and fries, Finn’s is the
place to go. The laid back
Irish pub atmosphere
and cheap prices add to
its appeal. It is also very
close to the AUR campus.
Some say it is better than
Hard Rock Cafe.
Viale Di Villa
Tel: 06 5812260
A great restaurant if you are
looking for ethnic food with
a twist. Serving traditional
Indian dishes, the staff is
very knowledgeable and
will make various sugges-
tions to satisfy what you
are looking for. The outside
siting area is lovely and
the food is well worth the
slightly expensive prices.
Via di Ponte Sisto 67
Tel: 06 5894554
FRENI E FRIZIONI
#1 for aperitivo in Rome.
Pay 5 euro for a drink, and
enjoy an expansive buffet
table, complete with a va-
riety of foods. The dipping
sauces at one end of the
table are not to be missed.
Freni e Frizioni is small
and tends to get crowded,
so take your food out into
the piazza and enjoy the
Via Del Politeama 4
Tel: 06 58334210
Sign at Taverna Lucifero
42 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
This three story bar/pub/
club is the most cosmo-
politan hangout in Rome. It
is famous for its cocktails
and up to date music. The
crowd is very international.
V. del Collegio Romano 6
Tel: 06 6786472
This Irish pub is Irish
owned and run. They have
a wide selection of beer
on draft, wine and wiskey.
Giant televisions screens
project the most important
soccer or football matches.
Via del Plebiscito 101b
This pub offers beer, cock-
tails and snacks. Popular
among the youthful crowd of
gay men and women. A good
place to meet before heading
off in search of something a
bit more frantic.
V. S.Giovanni in Laterano 8
THE DRUNKEN SHIP
The purpose of this bar? To
bring to Italy the American
way of life. Considered one
of the first real “drinking”
bars in Rome, The Drunken
Ship offers a great selection
of cocktails and shots.
Campo de’Fiori 20
This Irish pub has an elaborate
beer menu to match its Irish theme.
Popular with English speakers and
tourists, head to Mad Jacks if you
are craving a beer and an evening
with fellow English speakers. Try
their Cashel cider made from
fermented sweet apples.
Via Arenula 20
Renowed for being “a slice of Ire-
land in Italy” this Irish pub is very
popular among university students.
Its name derives from the Irish
National Theatre. Stage props and
costumes decorate the interior of
Via del Governo Vecchi 51
Tel: 06 6861341
While Mr. Browns may look
incongruous from the outside,
what it really has to offer is not in
its décor, but rather on its Happy
Hour menu. Between 7-10 every
night, drink prices are slashed in
half. Come here for beer, cocktails
Vicolo del Cinque 29
ON THE ROX
This bar is a “hot spot” for many
AUR students. The staff speaks eng-
lish and the drinks are cheap. Open
till 5 am this bar is conveniently
located in the (clubbing) Testaccio
area. Pre-party here (in or outside)
and you won’t regret it.
Via Galvani 54
Family-run, this wine bar/pub has
been serving since 1904. Watch
the bustling of people as you sit
and enjoy your favorite Italian or in-
ternational beer or wine. There is a
barrel full of slightly salted peanuts
for the customers to enjoy. Perfect
after dinner spot near Pz. Navona
Via di Tor Millina 32
This cafe/lounge is definately one
of the more elegant in its area. It
is very popular with international
students for its familiar list of cock-
tails, beer and wine. Sit inside to
enjoy Hip-Hop music or outside to
take part in the busy piazza.
Campo de’Fiori 4
Tel: 06 68309367
One of 3 hookah bars in
Rome, this one stands out
because it serves alcohol
and has very cozy decor.
There are pillows and mats to
lounge on. It’s a great place to
enjoy a night till 3 am.
Via S. Francesco a Ripa 135
This pub’s decor is insipred
by 1850 London for its
paintings remember “Jack
The Ripper.” It has a cozy
atmosphere and a great selec-
tion of beer and wine. Perfect
for a first date.
Via Benedetta 17
“On-The-Go” Menu at Mr. Browns
Aristocampo in Campo de’Fiori
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 43
This club is many things
including a pub, bar and
discoteque. The large terrace
here is idea to catch a breath
after dancing inside. The party
starts at 9PM and most im-
portant of all it has no cover,
which means no entry fee and
more money for drinks.
Via di Monte Testaccio, 48b
This is where many of Rome’s
salsa-aficionados come to
hang out and dance. Caruso
features live Latin American
music most nights of the week
and similar DJ-sets after-
wards. The bar gets packed by
the end of the night. Get there
early to beat the crowd.
Via di Monte Testaccio 36
Famous for its well-kown
deejays and special guests,
this club is one of the most
popular in the Testaccio
area. There are two dance
floors with seperate deejays,
two bars and a relaxing VIP
area. There is also an outdoor
Via di Monte Testaccio 69
Considered the “disco of the
moment,” Art Cafe is large
with multiple dance floors adn
theme nights including fashion
Tuesdays, live jazz and dinner
Thursdays and Friday hip-hop.
Reserve your VIP table ahead
of time, this high-end club
tends to get very crowded.
Via del Galoppatoio 33
The doormen to this small
club might be difficult to get
through, but the wait is worth
it. Low, dark couches surround
the spacious checker-tiled
dance floor. The drinks are
expensive but made quickly. A
place to relax and dance freely
to a wide variety of music.
Vicolo dei Granari 3
Tel: 06 6833312
This club is an elegant,
sophisticated and comfortable
lounge. It is a popular venue
for fashion shows and art
exhibits. Gilda’s comfortable
surroundings, dance floor and
excellent piano bar add up to
a great night out. They serve
food until midnight.
Via Mario de Fiori 97
This Hip-Hop club has two
bars. There are two plasma
screens and elegant, white
sofas in the VIP areas. There
is also an indoor smoking area
near the dancefloor. Well-
known deejays and interna-
tional celebrities can be spoted
Via San Saba 11/a
Gilda on a Wednesday Night
Hangar is one of the first gay
bars/clubs in Rome. The dark
rooms, soft techno beat and
stiff cocktails are what you
will find appealing before
experiencing a live male
striptease. As you pay for your
entrance make small-talk with
the friendly owner.
Via in Selci 69
42 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
44 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
Do you like a variety of music
genres? Alpheus brings in all
kinds of music. Each room has
its own genre. It isn’t the closest
to down town but that is what
makes it more appealing. You
will find more of a local crowd
here if you want to party like the
Via del Commercio 36
This club is one of the largest
clubs in Testaccio. It has two
floors of House and Hip-Hop
music and in the summer the
roof terrace is also acces-
sible. The crowd tends to be
predominately gay. Make sure to
check out the Drag-Queens on
Thursday and Sunday nights.
Via di Monte Testaccio 44
Packed on Friday and Saturday
nights, this club has two dance
floors in two different rooms
and three bars throughout the
club. The VIP area is great
because there is no place to sit
otherwise. Driving or Taxing
here is ideal for there is no pub-
lic transportation that passes by.
Via Portuense 74
Also known as Qube, this club
has almost become a Roman
legend. Not only does it have
three floors with different types
of music, but the number of
international guests and djs
that make appearences here
are numerous. This club is also
famous for its theme nights.
Via di Portonaccio, 212
Trendy and fashionable, this
two-story music restaurant has
a small dance floor and piano
bar and a small restaurant on
the roof, which in the late hour
becomes a dance floor as well.
If the entrance line is long, be
patient for the drinks are great!
Popular with up-scale Romans.
Via Galvani 20
This clubs has ethnic decor
and well-known DJs. House,
Jungle, Hip-Hop and Tribal mu-
sic are compulsory sounds. The
disco has a central bar which is
surrounded by sofas to lounge
on. The admission fee varies
depending on the ever-changing
theme (or event).
Via Libetta, 13
One of the most famous discos
of the capital, Piper is home of
Roman Underground, House as
well as Rock and Disco music
since the 1970s. It has been
renovated many times since and
is now a mix of metropolitan
and post-modern styles. Satur-
day brings a mostly gay crowd.
Via Tagliamento 9
Fairly new, this club is very
relaxing becuase of the number
of sofas surrounding the dance
floor. There is also an ajoining
room for private parties. There
is a buffet available every Fri-
day and Saturday beginning at
9:30 PM, usually accompanied
by live Jazz and Blues music.
Viale di Porta Ardeatina 119
Typical night at Hangar
romanesco.com | ROMANESCO 45
Only a few years old, Bloom
attracts a stylish and hip crowd.
The art deco bar and restaurant,
are fruit of a minimal, ultra-
modern renovation in a former
14th-century chapel. It has a
sushi bar on the second floor.
Via del Teatro Pace 30
Alien provides a bizarre space-
age dance floor complete with
strobe lights rocking to the
sounds of House/Techno music.
Occasionally, an emcee will
interject briefly for a cabaret or
comedy act. It is only open on
Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Via Velletri Nuovo 13
Complete with hanging
decorative beads, gold rimmed
furniture and bright colors, it is
no wonder a fashion designer
established this club. It offers
a classic, disco-like dancefloor.
The music varies from House to
classic 40’s music.
Via Dei Conciatori 7
Also known as the “Roman
House of Blues” this club offers
a variety of live performances
from. The bar offers an ex-
tensive menu of cocktails and
food. It is best to reserve a table
if you would like a place to sit
for the shows.
V. San Francesco a Ripa 18
There are two floors in this
club. The second is dedicated
to R’N’B and Soul music while
the first (bottom) floor is trans-
formed into an art gallery with
live music on Monday nights.
Come here to lounge or dance.
Via del Pellegrino 79
Though recently remodeled,
this club still retains its 70s
characteristics thanks to the
abstract paintings on the walls.
The dancefloor is large. In case
you get tired of dancing there is
a spacious lounging area.
Piazza Dei Ponziani 8/C
Though it’s a little out of the
way, this club is one of the
oldest clubs in Rome. There are
four rooms with music rang-
ing from Commercial to 70’s
classics. There are also Latin
Via di Grottarossa 175
by Adrienne Hawkins
Place your hands around me in as bold a fashion
as you dare. The cup in my hand has assured that you
won’t be getting pushed away tonight. I can barely look
up so I’m staring a little over your shoulder, and my hair
is blocking some of my vision. It’s divided the room into
slanted rectangles, and I can see blurred slices of what’s
going on around me. The orange light reflecting off the
walls coming from the unnatural lighting up above. The
other people moving to the same rhythm we’re trying to
keep up with. They’re all figureless, just bodies swathed
in black swaying to the music. I can hear myself wonder-
ing why everyone always wears black to go out more
than I can hear the music. The music is not playing, it’s
living. Notes are spilling from the stage and wrapped all
around the tiny club, around the dancers, and it’s even in
Guide me through what little open spaces there
are. My cup is almost empty, so you’ve got to be a good
leader. Now your hands are changing positions, and it
almost confuses me because I need your shoulder to bal-
ance. Spin me as much as you like, because my world is
already going around faster and faster. Bump me into the
people we came with, they’ve got cups too and don’t care.
The more I sip the better I’m following you, so please
don’t stop leading. Now hold me closer as you can sense
the song’s almost over, and you need to get enough of
my body to remember after we part. Keep moving on this
dance floor, and the night will never end.
Entrance to ETO’
Eto’ is a two story club. You
can find House music on the
bottom floor and Hip-Hop,
R’N’B and commerical music
above. The VIP area is small
but worth reserving. Remember
to dress to impress!
Via Galvani 46
46 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
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lence, allows you to complete your MA or
MBA degree or to study abroad for a semester
while pursuing your undergraduate degree.
St. John’s is one of America’s
leading Catholic universities. Through our
Rome programs, you can study for a summer or
a semester—and even think about continuing
for graduate studies in Government and Politics
or an International MBA!
Rome is a home campus for St. John’s
students. That means your financial aid and
scholarship funds apply directly just as they do
for a semester’s tuition at our New York
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