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  2. 2. With your ISIC Card : International and domestic discounted airfares, budget accomodation, car hire, tours and excursions, travel insurance, rail and ferry passes, discounts and benefits. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 297 Phone-06.687.2672 | Mon-Fri 9.30-18.30. Sat 10.30-13.00
  3. 3. MAGAZINE VOLUME 1, ISSUE 1 ROMANESCO EDITORIAL EXECUTIVE EDITOR Michael Maury EDITOR Kelsea Brennan-Wessels ASSISTANT EDITOR Katie Schuck GRAPHIC DESIGNER Michael Maury CONTRIBUTORS Kelsea Brennan-Wessels, Caitlin Foley, Adrienne Hawkins, Rosi Mosca-Herrera, Alexandra Nardi, Tess Roth COVER DESIGN & PHOTOGRRAPHY Michael Maury Photo: Fontana del Mascherone (An ancient grotesque mask and granite basin were combined to create a Baroque Fountain) Located on Via Giulia ABOUT Magazine was created as a a thesis project completed in May 2008 at The American University of Rome. Via Pietro Roselli, 4 00153 Rome, Italy Tel: (+39) 06.5833.0919 Fax: (+39) 06.5833.0992 e-mail: SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER2008 | ROMANESCO 1
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  5. 5. CONTENTS FEATURES 6 Last Bird Catches the Worm Rome’s Sixth “Notte Bianca” 10 Halloween in Rome Celtic Origins, American Materialism and Italian Tradition 14 Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary 18 Recipe for Success An Entrepreneur’s Story 26 The AUR Housing Fraud or Student Misconception? 22 Imported Ideas Philadelphia University Fashion Tips 31 Student Life At The American University of Rome 34 Mike’s Market Memos 40 The Best of... Rome’s City Center, Monteverde & Trastevere ALSOINSIDE 6 14 22 10 34 | ROMANESCO 3 SEPTEMBER-DECEMBER2008 | CONTENTS
  6. 6. INSIDE | ROMANESCO 5 Over 2,000 years of history and culture have transformed Rome into an assimilation of architectural styles, food, and people. Many new resident and study abroad students find it diffcult to find their place in the chaos Italians are used to. I believe students shouldn’t question their ability to adapt and integrate into Italian culture. When Rome gets tough, the key to a successful, intercultural experience is a reliable guide. ROMANESCO Magazine is a publication of The American University of Rome (AUR), produced “in-house” by university students who are proud to say they have lived through the worst and best of Roman life. Unlike other publications found on the AUR campus, ROMANESCO Magazine is non- profit. This means that the creators can be trusted to have the most reliable and most pertinent information for students. This first issue of ROMANESCO Magazine begins with an introduction to Rome’s Notte Bianca, a significant cultural event that is growing in popularity not only in Rome but around Europe. For those of you who will be missing Halloween back home, you will be happy to know that this cultural event has been accepted into Italian culture. The “Halloween in Rome” article suggests a few clubs that charge discounted prices if they see you dressed up on October 31. Following is an article by ex-AUR study-abroad student, Tess Roth. Though currently living in New York City, her love for Rome is encapsulated in her feature “Torre Argentina, Cat Sanctuary.” From photo shoots to the kitchen, an exclusive profile of ex-model Josephine Scorer will blow you away. She has sucessfully started her own bakery in the heart of Rome and gives us pointers on how we can do the same. The Philadelphia University fashion students have built their portfolios in Rome. We have their comments on Italian attire and suggestions for the upcoming season. We have incorporated a section dedicated to our university’s lifestyle including an interesting article on AUR facilitated housing and the misconceptions students may have about it. “Mike’s Market Memos” is one of our most practical sections. Here we scoped out the best markets in the AUR campus vicinity and what to look for in each one. Finally, we have our “Best Of” section. With the help of students and faculty at AUR, we have compiled a listing of locali (restaurants, bars and clubs) that have been voted the best based on quality, prices and service. This compilation is just a small selection of the hundreds of restaurants, bars and clubs in Rome. The staff and I encourage readers of ROMANESCO Magazine to participate in our following issues by sending in articles and/or any information pertinent to AUR students so that we may inform and at the same time entertain students to the best of our ability. Feel free to send us any comments or questions that you may have at Enjoy the issue. MICHAEL MAURY ROMANESCO
  7. 7. Late Bird Catches the Worm Rome’s 6th “Notte Bianca” by Michael Maury NewYork isn’t the only city that never sleeps. Saturday, September 6, 2008, Rome will present “La Notte Bianca” once again for its sixth edition. Organized in collaboration with Rome’s City Council the “White Night” (or sleepless night) is synonymous to free concerts, museum entries, films and performances. Public areas that are usually abandoned, suburban areas as well as prestigious locations that are part of the city’s historical legacy are revisited by artists in an original manner. A weekend dedicated to cultural events, the streets of Rome flood with people and become a center of dialogue between nations. >> CULTURE 6 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
  9. 9. Collective Embrace. In Europe the first “Notte Bianca” was held in Paris, France in the summer of 2002. By fall of 2003, Rome had already taken the Parisian example and held its own. Since 2006 other European capitals jumped on the band- wagon including Brussels, Madrid and Riga with the objective of sharing artistic events under the title of “European Notti Bianche.” In 2007, six capitals had decided to create a collective project that would cre- ate a space to “lounge” in the heart of a late summer night and share a cultural opportunity. The Day Before: “Awaiting…The White Night.” Beat the crowds. There is no point in waiting till Saturday to get started on the events. Friday, September 5 will mark the beginning of the program under the title “Aspettando…La Notte Bianca,” a vigil introducing “White Night.” Professor Valerie Higgins, Chair of Arts and Humanities at The American University of Rome (AUR), suggests starting the weekend off early, “Knowing what you want is a must for these nights. Log on to the official site ( and build your itinerary directly from the there.” Select shops and restaurants will be exceptionally opened from 9 P.M. until midnight. On Saturday events begin at 8 P.M. and end at 8 A.M. Entrance to many participating institutions is free, though there are some that hold their promo- tional or market prices. Looking Back. Under the title “Il Mondo in una Notte,” last year’s “Notte Bianca” brought together more than 2.5 million people ( Some of the most talked about displays were the “Maximum Silence” installation in the Circo Massimo, the video installation “Time Lines” by Philipp Geist at Palazzo delle Esposizioni, and Via Veneto’s “Dolce Vita” evening with singer-songerwriter Lucio Dalla performing in Villa Borghese. Walk, Walk, Walk. Getting around will depend on your legs, feet and agility to get through the thousands of people walking around the narrow streets. Atac SpA (Rome’s Public Transport Service) will provide a non-stop public transportation service starting 5:00 A.M. on Saturday until midnight on Sunday. Develop your route on the Atac official website www.atac.roma. it. Be Prepared for the Unexpected. In 2003 a major power outage inaugurated the first Roman “Notte Bianca.” A storm had destroyed the power lines from Switzerland to Italy and left Rome’s eventful night without light for nine hours. The following two years 04/05 were blessed with un- wanted rainfall, which greatly affected the participation of the night. There were also some unpleasant mishaps in 2007 with the stabbing of a 20 year old, the breakdown of a tram car which took two hours to fix and the sequestering of 25,000 illegal bottles of beer being sold on the streets. Helpful hints: travel using the buddy sys- tem and check the weather forecast before hitting the streets. Last Minute Itinerary. At sunset head to Castel Sant’Angelo for an overlook of Rome’s cityscape. Have an aperitivo on the monument’s terrace and enjoy the 360 degree view of the eternal city. Make your way north-east to Piazza del Popolo where live concerts and performances are available starting at around 10 P.M. Head south, down Via del Corso to Piazza del Campidoglio where the Musei Capitolini are located. These museums are full of Ancient Roman art includ- ing the original statue of Marcus Aurelius and the bronze she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus. Fin- ish with Piazza Navona, where you can find artistic exhibitions and performances. “White Nights” in Europe: August 25• - Riga - September 8• - Rome - September 22• - Madrid - September 22• - Bucharest - September 29• - Brussels - October 6• - Paris - Colosseum Piazza della Repubblica “Maximum Silence” Apollo Sosianus CULTURE 8 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
  10. 10. Al Grammelot® From the year one-thousand, jokers and comedians entertained inhabitants of villages in the local squares, with satirical and grotesque acts. Often, language barriers between the actors and the audience made comprehension impossible. Thus, IL GRAMMELOT was born. It did not use words and sentences but invented sounds, whose rhythm and intonation allude to expressions of colloquial language. It is a language translated into music. The sensations, smells and tastes of wine also allow people to relate to each other, interact and communicate. Wine is an emotion. Each sip is different from the previous. It cannot be defined or enclosed within boudries. Winery | Enoteca Al Grammelot Via G. Carini 39/39a tel. 065-809-611 12:00-16:00/18:00-1:00 Closed Saturday morning & Sunday
  11. 11. Adark cloaked monk stands erect in Piazza Campo dei Fiori, Rome. The grim statue of Giordano Bruno watches the lively crowds in the piazza on the same spot where he was burned at the stake for heresy about 400 years ago. This statute is one of the most recognizable monuments in Rome. It also embodies the spirit of Halloween, a 2,000 year old Celtic tradition that Italy has adopted into its culture. Instead of home to home, most children in Italy trick- or-treat from business to business. Cafés, res- taurants and hardware stores expect children dressed in masks and witch outfits to walk around the streets of Rome on October 31. They say “dolcetto scherzetto” (trick-or- treat) in return for cookies, chocolate or candy. “It started about ten years ago,” said local bar owner Marianna Grisci, “we accepted Halloween as a com- mercialistic holiday.” “Italian children requested it and their parents go along with it.” Grisci said that most Italians didn’t really know what this tradition symbolized, including herself. More than 2,000 years ago the Celts lived in the area that is now Ireland, the United Kingdom, and northern France. They celebrated their new year on November 1. This day marked the end of the summer harvest and the beginning of the dead winter. The night before (October 31) the Celts celebrated Samhain, a day when they announced the arrival of the ghosts believed to destroy their crops. Celts also thought that these spirits facilitated fortune telling. They dressed up in animal skins in an attempt to read fortunes and lit bonfires to steer away spirits that could possess humans. After the Romans conquered the majority of Celtic territory, two festivals of Roman origin combined with Samhain; Feralia and Pomona. The first commemorated the passing of the dead and the second honored the Roman goddess of fruit and trees. Jeremy Prince, 22, Italian Studies Major at The American Univer- sity of Rome (AUR), studied pagan holidays. He said that Christian- ity’s attempt to “clean- up” pagan holidays established November 1 as All Saints’ Day, a time to honor saints and martyrs. The church also sanctioned Novem- ber 2 as All Souls’ Day, a day to honor the dead. It was celebrated simi- larly to Samhain with bonfires and people dressing up as saints, angels and devils. Grisci explained that Italians primarily celebrate All Saints’ Day by attending mass and All Souls’ Day is dedicated to visiting the cemetary. “We clean the tombs of family members who have passed on and place fresh flowers near them,” Grisci said. For a more practical reason, Grisici said that Italians celebrate All Souls’ Day in November. The tempera- tures are cooler than the summer months which keep flowers in the cemetary from decaying quickly. Descendants of the Celts, Irish immigrants brought their traditions to the United States of America. Today the pagan holiday is colorful, complete with costumes, parties and spiritual references. In Italy, Halloween doesn’t have much of a cultural signifance, but it definitely makes its presence at an aesthetic level. Josephine Scorer, 37, owner of Jose- phine’s Bakery located in Piazza del Paradiso 56-57, Rome, said that Italians (children especially) are very into Halloween desserts. “We offer mini pumpkin cakes, themed cupcakes and cookies shaped like bats and ghosts,” she said, “My birthday also of alls on October 31 so I take this holiday at heart.” CULTURE Halloween in Rome Celtic Origins, American Materialism & Itlaian Trdition Two AUR students in Halloween make-up 10 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
  12. 12. Adele Caciula, 23, Italian-American student studying at LUISS University, said that she celebrates Halloween with her Italian friends every year. In 2007 they went to Testaccio to dance, “I wore an orange wig and makeup this past Halloween. Club Ullalà had happy hour until 4 AM only for those who dressed up,” she said. Caciula said that they also stopped at a pub on the same street called On the Rox, located on via Galvani, 54. Emily Tipton, 19, went to On the Rox for Halloween. “I watched the Roma soccer team play a game on the projected screen with a few friends. After that, a crowd of people dressed up in costume filled the pub,” she said. Every year AUR takes steps in offering its students the op- portunity to celebrate one of their most cherished traditions. The AUR student Michelle Spaulding, 21, participated in the school sponsored pumpkin carving contest, “I love it. Especially cleaning out the insides. I would offer to clean others’ pumpkins because I enjoyed it so much,” she said. Spaulding said that she missed her Halloween celebrations at home, “It’s my favorite holiday, so not having all the trick-or-treaters and decorations everywhere always bums me out.” In 2006, students at AUR organized a theme night at Discoteca New Scarabocchio in Piazza dei Ponziani in Trastevere, “There was an open bar until mid-night and we gave discounts to those dressed in costume,” said Michael Park, 23, one of the organizers. “Americans are definitely one of the biggest celebrants of Halloween, they were the ones dressed up the most,” said Kelsea Brennan-Wessels, 21, a dancer at Club Gilda on Via Mario de Fiori 97. “ In Italy, Halloween doesn’t have much of a cultural signifance, but it definitely makes its presence at an aesthetic level. ” “Italians are clueless. The customers of the restaurant next door saw everyone in costume and asked what was going on and if these theme parties happened every Wednesday,” Brennan-Wessels said. Hard Rock Café located on Via Veneto 62a also takes the initiative of sponsoring Halloween-themed events every year. “The restaurant organized a blood drive, children’s games and music shows which lasted the entire day,” said Marie-Noelle Dragutin, 21. The Heineken Beer Company also sponsors hundreds of parties throughout Italy under the title “Heineken Night” on October 31. Rome hosts its “Mega Party,” an organized theme party at a discoteque whose venue is unveiled the day of Halloween on the company web-site. Every year Halloween is more noticeable in Italian culture and its influence is evident in the amount of celebrations that occur throughout the city of Rome. provides a listing of restaurants, discos, pubs and events dedicated to celebrat- ing October 31 in Rome. CULTURE ghostly Spirits Black Magic 1 1/2 oz. Vodka 3/4 oz. Kahlua Dash Lemon Juice Lemon Twist Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir gently. Strain into a highball glass over ice. Garnish with a lemon twist. Jagermonster Fill a mixing glass with ice. 1 oz. Jägermeister 1 oz. Grenadine Fill with Orange Juice Combine all everything in the mixing glass. Mix well, and serve in a beer mug. Tequila Ghost 2 oz. Tequila 1/2 oz. Anise Liqueur (i.e. sambuca, pernod) 1/2 oz. Lemon Juice Club Soda Combine Tequila, Anise and Lemon juice in a shaker with ice. Shake well. Strain into a highball glass over ice. Top with a splash of club soda. Devil’s Poison 1 oz. Jack Daniels 1 oz. 151 Bacardi Rum Fill a shaker with ice, pour the Jack Daniels and 151 Bacardi Rum into shaker and shake. Strain into a shot glass. Courtesy of Halloween Drinks & Cocktail Recipes | ROMANESCO 11
  13. 13. VICOLO DEL CINQUE 33 TEL 06 5803303
  14. 14. (KG)
  15. 15. Rome’s streets are always swarming: tour buses, dump, tourists in various city hotspots. Vespas and European compact clown-like cars buzz rapidly around corners and through crosswalks dodging pedestrians like football running backs evading tackles; gypsies shuffle through the train stations and restaurants with open palms exchanging Italian overtures for 10 euro cents, harassing people and breaking boundaries of personal space. But when the water stops pumping through la Fontana di Trevi, when the stores pull their gates and when the gypsies retreat to their mysterious homes, the streets are blanketed with a comforting silence. That’s when the cats come out. Decorating bases of statues, rubbing against the hands of late-night wander- ers, stalking and prowling through the night are the lionized Cats of Rome. About 300,000 stray and abandoned cats inhabit the streets making them the unofficial rulers of Rome. Many have made homes of the major monuments due to the fact that they are well fed and sheltered here. Others are cared for at the Torre Argentina cat sanctuary, tucked beneath the historical site where Brutus and his co-conspirators stabbed Julius Caesar in 44 B.C. I stumbled upon the ruins on my first day in Rome while exploring with a couple of my roommates. We were snapping pictures of the temple’s ruins when I noticed cats scattered across the grounds, sunbathing on large stones and strutting across the elevated walls. “Look at all the cats!” I exclaimed, elated at the sight due to the fact that I had a tearful departure from my four cats only a day before. It wasn’t until my next visit that I noticed it was an adoption center for stray and abandoned cats. Down a flight of stairs and situated underneath the sidewalk, cave-like with low ceilings and areas where the walls are still bare stone, is the shelter. The main room is bordered with rows of cages, cat beds cover the tables and corners, and litter boxes omit odors one would expect with 250 to 300 cats using them. The cats are every- where: on the stairs as I enter, in the plants, wandering the ruins, sitting on the wall ledges watching the people pass, hiding in cabinets, filling the beds and cages, peering from the corners and weaving between my legs. Some are missing limbs or eyes. I see one with a fanatcal puff of a tail that looked like it exploded. Others are gorgeous pure- breeds. Some are kittens, wide-eyed and playful, while others are old, shabby, and indifferent. The volunteer inside tells me the sanctuary was started about 16 years prior but has no official license. “No one ever kicked us out, though. We were doing the city a service so they just let us be,” she says. “ About 300,000 stray and abandoned cats inhabit the streets making them the unofficial rulers of Rome. ” CITY TORRE ARGENTINA, CAT SANCTUARY by Tess Roth 14 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
  16. 16. In 1929, when excavation be- gan on Torre Argentina, cats started taking refuge here because it was be- low street level. The cats were fed by women the Romans contemptuously labeled gattare, or cat ladies. Three women established the sanctuary in 1995 after gaining resources from the English organization A.I.S.P.A. (Anglo-Italian Society for the Protec- tion of Animals). Two years prior they had been working under primitive conditions in the damp underground-excavated area with no electricity or running water and funding everything at their own expense. The sanctuary takes in stray cats almost every day. Many are abandoned by their owners when they leave for summer vacation or are dumped off at the shelter in the middle of the night. Some have even been adopted and then brought back to the sanctuary. Funded through raffles, fundraisers, flea market sales and donations, the adoption center feeds, steril- izes, medicates and vaccinates every cat brought to them. Fascinated and heartbroken, I bring my friend Carla with me for another visit. Because it’s close to 11 pm, we stand at the bot- tom of the steps petting and cooing at the cats surrounding us. A tiny silver-haired woman comes out carrying a litter box. Her skin hangs loosely on her jowl and her thick glasses magnify her eyes. “What are you doing?” she asks with a German accent, her voice sweet and soothing like a flute but her words slightly threatening. “We were… uh… just petting the cats,” Carla replies as we prepare to leave. “Is it too late?” “No, it’s ok. But usually when you come to a place,” she starts turning to re-entering the sanctuary, “you come inside.” “Oh!” I say apologizing. “We thought it was too late.” “Do you like cats?” she asks. Carla and I nod in unison. “Then you come inside.” She starts to prepare a grotesque looking mixture of grains, water, meat and wet cat food, mixing vigorously for a woman of her age and small stature. We kneel among the kitties, awwwing and giggling as they climb into our laps and onto our shoulders. “Everybody say they love the cats, but no one want to help them,” the woman sighs. Carla and I look at each other. “We’ll help!” we agree. “They can’t even give one day a week,” she continues. “We’ll help,” we repeat. She doesn’t believe us, we can tell, but she introduces herself as Rixa and asks us to come Monday nights around 9 pm. When we show up the next Monday, a slight smile parts her lips and she says, “So you came after all.” We follow her around the sanctuary as she shows us what to do and where everything is. She leads us to the back storage area, which is totally dilapidated. The walls and floors are bar stone, no extra walls have been erected and no temperature control has been installed. Another collection of cats fill cat beds and small houses fashioned for a creature of their size. The cats emerge from hidden crevices and secret passageways, scrutinizing our move- ments and ducking from our outstretched palms. The sanctuary is separated into spaces. The back storage room and another small area in the center of the ruins next to the exact spot where Brutus betrayed Caesar house many of the shy, nervous or reserved cats. The main room keeps all the well-behaved and well-com- posed cats, while the second room, divided by a jail cell-like gate, holds the cats that can’t roam freely due to blindness (one has two missing eyes) or ignorance to traffic. Behind this room is a secret room blocked off by a set of cages, which have to be moved in order to enter. This room accommodates the sick and injured. It’s a small, pri- vate area removed from the incessant talking of the other cats, but retains a desolate, distressing atmosphere. CITY “ Funded through raffles, fundraisers, flea market sale and donations, the adoption center feeds, sterilizes, medicates and vaccinates every cat brought to them. ” | ROMANESCO 15
  17. 17. ORGANIC SUPERMARKET Via Oderisi Da Gubbio 66, 00146 Roma 06.557.8692
  18. 18. These cats have raw wounds and horrible infections, and many of them don’t like our intrusion of their space, flatten- ing their ears and crouching low when we enter. Some hiss and swat ferociously when we reach for the litter. We learn which cages to leave for the morning shift. Bigiu (pronounced Bee-jew) always tries to get in to this room, waiting by the door for her chance to slide between our feet and terrorize the less fortunate. Bigiu is chunky and stout striped mutt with anger management issues. She walks around growling and yowling like someone is constantly standing on her tail. She threateningly makes eye contact and swats at anyone in her way, including sweet Lorenzo, the oversized longhaired tuxedo cat that quietly minds his own business and smiles when we scratch his ears. Even though some of the cats don’t want to be bothered, none respond like Bigiu. Some are tranquil and unphased by our presence; others just make it clear they don’t want to be touched. Most love the attention, like Phantom, a tiger-striped beauty with a protrud- ing muzzle. He won’t hesitate to climb in my lap as soon as I kneel and nuzzle affectionately under my armpits so I can’t bring myself to put him down. Pirate is all gray with fangs that extend over his bottom lip and one eye where the socket has been cleanly covered with fur. He waits calmly for attention, lingering around our workspaces. Baghera is the enormous panther-like black cat that silently watches the world from her master suite-sized cage offering barely audible meows in exchange for love. She shares a room with Hugo, the white teen kitty with black spots. He reaches out for us as we pass and tilts his head broken- heartedly if we pay too much attention to his kitten neighbors. He loves to curl into our necks and promptly attaches himself to our sleeves climbing across our shoulders if we try to put him back. Caravaggio is missing both eyes, but boldly loiters at our feet as we work sniffing at the air and listening for any sudden movements. “Blind but still beautiful,” says Rixa, leaning to scratch his head but letting him sniff her hand beforehand so she doesn’t startle him. Rixa has been at the sanctuary “the longest of them all!” she says. She struggles due to the lack of help. There are usually about three volunteers during the day and two at night, but often Rixa works alone. “It’s nice to have the help,” she says to Carla and me. “And the company.” Occasionally there are late-night last minute visitors who wander in. Three young girls in their early twenties enter like they’ve been here before. “Where’s Honey?” she says scouring the room. “Is this her? I think this is her,” she points to a longhaired orange cat that wriggles free and scrambles away when the girl picks her up. “I almost adopted you,” she says scolding the animal. “Don’t be mean to me.” “ Everyone says they love the cats... but no one wants to help them. ” When I ask her why she didn’t adopt Honey, whose real name is Andromeda, she says that her application was denied. She lives in Rome but she is a student and, even though there are close to 300 cats that need homes, the standards are rigorous, as they want to be sure the cats get the care and attention they need and deserve. She asks if we volunteer at the sanctuary and says that she visits often. “Maybe I should volunteer here. I love cats.” “You should,” I say. “They could use the help.” “But what do you guys do?” she asks watching me sift through a heavily soiled litter box. “Just… that?” “Well, yeah and change the water and stuff.” “Oh, I don’t think I could do that,” she says screwing up her face. “I just want to, like, hang out with them.” She leans down to pet one of the cats as it passes her. I shrug at her disappointedly. “Everyone says they love the cats,” I think. “But no one wants to help them.” CITY | ROMANESCO 17
  19. 19. RecipeforSuccess An Entrepreneur’s Story by Michael Maury Among the boutiques and cafes near Campo dei Fiori lies a pastry shop specializing in international desserts. Its owner, ex-model Josephine Scorer, 37, bases its success on her desire to provide Rome with quality food and experiences that could recall her relationship with beauty, art, taste and fashion. Located in Paradise Plaza (Piazza del Paradiso 56-57), a light smell of frosting led pedestrians into Josephine’s Bakery. Its windows and interior shelves were decorated with photographic cook books, layered, pastel colored wedding cakes and a glass covered display counter filled with cupcakes, chocolate chip cookies, brownies and New York style cheesecake. Josephine stood over the softly lit counter. Her dark hazel complexion and brown hair emphasized her soft facial contours. She acknowledged my presence, “Hello Michael please have a seat. I’ll be with you in two seconds,” and finished packing a box of desserts for a client. She was dressed in dark grey pants, a wool sweatshirt, heels and a smile. Interviewed by other magazines including Vogue, Where and Glamour, her relaxed pose meant she was used to it. Josephine was adopted at six weeks by an English father and Australian mother. Middle school choir and baking with her mother and father sparked an innate passion for the arts. She was raised in Eaton, London through university. After receiving a degree in English literature, Josephine spread her wings. In 1993 she decided to satisfy her innermost desire to live in Italy, “It’s easy to fall in love with the art and food,” she said. Young and unemployed, Josephine found herself in the just out-of-college situation. “What could I do?,” she asked herself. ® PROFILE 18 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
  20. 20. She took advantage of her five foot, 10 inch height, 54 kilogram weight and West-Indie features and started modeling in Milan, accepting any offer, from editorial photo shoots to the catwalk. She soon left it for something different, “Modeling I enjoyed, but it wasn’t a passion. I’m restless. I wanted something more stimulating and not base my career on looks,” Josephine admitted. Before leaving the modeling business, Josephine interned at television stations, working as an assistant and translator on set, “I also did a lot of freelance work including teaching English,” she said. According to Josephine, the entertainment industry runs on a meritocracy, “You have to be open to do anything and if you are quick and proactive enough you’ll get what you deserve.” First impressions are the ones that last and Josephine completely agrees with that, “Apart from being at the right place at the right time and taking advantages of opportunities, you need to do great when you’re given your first lead.” She eventually became a producer for Sky T.V. for three years before leaving the business and starting her own. “ I wanted something more stimulating and not base my career on looks. ” Apart from Josephine’s love for art and beauty she started her bakery for three primary reasons. She was into gastronomy, “I originally thought I could own a small restaurant,” she said. Josephine realized that Rome lacked this type of bakery, “ I wanted to provide Rome with more of, what Italians call, an Anglo-Saxon cuisine.” She wanted to create a business that resembled a boutique, “I wanted to combine the ideas I had of style and quality into a product I knew and valued,” she said. Self taught, Josephine was a little intimidated about start- ing her own bakery. She tested her skills on a small circle of clients while still working at Sky Satellite Television, “I brought in different desserts for my colleagues to try. They eventually requested personalized desserts and it snowballed from their,” she said. Today she works with two other specialized chefs who have an extensive background in international pastry. They work on-site, creating everything by hand and use organic ingredients where possible. Josephine confessed that starting a business in Italy is very difficult, “You have to be very patient. To overcome the obstacles you need to be focused and convinced that what you are doing is a passion.” She explains that the Italian Chamber of Commerce put her through a series of courses that taught her and other entrepreneurs how to run their own business, “Even though these courses were obligatory they were extremely useful,” she said, “they taught me how to deal with legal matters, something that becomes important when people try to tell you how to run your business,” Josephine added. Italians were originally skeptical about the future of her bakery. Eventually they became her biggest clients, especially those who travel and are familiar with the non-Italian flavors. Josephine said that Italians are very into Halloween. Her birthday falls on the October 31st, so she takes special pride in the day. Her bakery creates mini pumpkin cakes in a variety of flavors, themed cookies and pumpkin and pecan pies to celebrate Thanksgiving. “Surprisingly Italians aren’t into baked goods for St. Valentine’s or Easter,” she said, “Italians are very set in their ways and some things are difficult to introduce into their culture,” she added. Josephine’s Bakery has been running for about two and a half years now and it’s self sufficient. Josephine travels back and forth from London to Rome, primarily to take care of bills, pay roll and publicity for the bakery. The bakery hasn’t affected her physic much since her modeling career, “You actually lose weight in a bakery. There’s a lot of moving around. Life is also a lot less stressful in the food industry as opposed to the entertainment one,” Josephine said. The bakery is lucrative and Josephine confesses that it’s a definate ego boost. “I wanted to open a shop in Rome where Romans could find something that tasted good, but that also looked beautiful. A place where people could taste desserts that would give something the heart and eyes could feast on before they even reached the palate,” she said. Now that Josephine has charmed the hearts of Italians she would like to take her bakery to London. Even though the competition is greater she believes she can break through. Already negotiating for a prime location in the center she plans to open the bakery in January 2009. “Unfortunately Italy is a limited society especially in business,” she said. Josephine said that she was tired of working around Italian bureaucracy and will concentrate more on opening another nine stores around the world. PROFILE | ROMANESCO 19
  22. 22. “Made in Italy” is a metaphor for fashion and quality. A group of students from Philadelphia University travel to The American University of Rome every fall semester to build their portfolios and seek further inspiration. Here are some of their sketches and comments on spending a few months in the fashion capital of the world. WHAT INSPIRES YOUR CREATIONS? Always look at the younger, hippier kids. The ones with style unlike everyone else. They are the ones that really start trends. ~ Kathleen Gillespie Music is a huge inspiration, just because it’s such a great part of my life. My collection for fall is mainly inspired by the Art Deco period, the Great Depression and Gothic architecture. ~ Carrie Hansen Usually magazines start our inspirations with seeing what’s out in the market and in fashion. We always look to high name designers for ideas (Gucci, Prada, Dior). ~ Amanda Mastranduono FASHION SUGGESTIONS FOR FALL/WINTER 2008? Boots all the way. They make a simple outfit look so much better. Heel, flat, they’re all good. ~ Shannon Staffieri Wool peacoats are definately an in as well as bulky sweaters. Also layersing is a current trend that keeps you warm! ~ Simone Kettell There is definately not one right answer, but trends for fall include oversized knits and scarves, purples, greys, high waisted pants and a refined appearence. In the end though I believe fashion is about self expression, not the trends themselves. ~ Carrie Hansen ARE ITALIANS FASHION CONSCIOUS? Yes! They are always dressed so nice. I feel bad when I wear some- thing that is not as nice. They definately know how to dress. Some of the heels they wear in the city are crazy! ~ Shannon Staffieri Most definately! Italians have style like no one else. Its always New York, Paris, Milan, but in NY women still wear sweats. Paris they look casual but nicely put together. In Milan every woman looks glamorous. ~ Kathleen Gillespie Kathleen Gillespie FASHION | ROMANESCO 23
  23. 23. FASHION The Italians are very fashion oriented, especially the men when compared to Americans. It is great to see that no matter their size, gender, or age, they dress to impress. ~ Alyssa Pittenger They aren’t as in your face fashion of London but everyone is always dressed nicely. No sweatpant days! ~ Simone Kettell Overall I feel that Italians are stylish but not original in their day to day wear. From what I have seen of streetwear, they play it safe and stick to classic shapes and dark colors. Couture and high-end designers push boundries, but doesn’t show up in day to day life. ~ Carrie Hanse FURTHER FASHION TIPS Dress to impress. Don’t walk around the city looking like a slob. Leave that for home. Dress to fit in. They have amaz- ing style, why wouldn’t you want to dress like them? Buy clothes/shoes here! They’re amazing and you won’t get them back home. ~ Shannon Staffieri Always wear cute shoes. Even if they don’t match, you will still look Italian. ~ Amanda Mastranduono Shop down the little alleys and in unsuspected places. That is where you find the most interetsing shops and designs. ~ Alyssa Pittenger “ Italians are always ‘done’ down to the last detail. They care a lot about their appearance and though it’s not based on originality, it’s a sophisticted look. ” ~ Carrie Hansen Kathleen Gillespie 24 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
  24. 24. Betulli Hairdressing® Via di Monteverde, 40/40a tel. 065-8230053 9.30-18.00
  25. 25. Students of The American University of Rome (The AUR) are not satisfied with their housing arrangements. They believe the accommodations are crammed and not worth the cost. Resident students of The AUR accuse their university of exploiting student finances. What students do not know is that their university does quite the opposite. Prior to the year 2000, The AUR students were lodged in residen- cies outside of Rome’s city center. “These buildings accommodated students like a dormitory,” said Rosa Fusco, Director of Computer Services at The AUR since 1992, “and because of their location, the university provided students with a shuttle service to and from the university campus,” Fusco continued. At the turn of the millennium, as The AUR enrollment increased, the university moved students into apartments closer to the campus. Over the past eight years, in collaboration with a few real estate agencies, The AUR has created a student-housing program. Today, students choose between a standard housing option (Casa Romana) and a standard +5 (plus five) benefits package (Casa Romana Cinque in Più). Students who chose standard university facilitated housing are placed in furnished apartments located in Italian apartments and condominiums. This is well suited for students looking for a “full immersion” cultural experience. These two to three bedroom apartments are equipped with basic furnishings and supplies including a single bed per occupant, linens and kitchenware and are located within walking distance or near public transit routes relative to the university. The plus five housing option offers additional services including Monday through Saturday cleaning services, health club membership, continental breakfast (six days a week), television and satellite subscription and daily newspaper delivery. More information on The AUR housing can be found on the university web-site The cost per student for apartment rental (per semester) averages to 3, 645 Euro (5,195 U.S. dollars) for the standard and an extra 800 Euro (1140 U.S. dollars) for the plus five option. Students are therefore paying roughly 900 Euro (1, 200 U.S. dollars) per month for four months. The AUR resident students who have had experi- ence with the Italian real estate market believe uni- versity facilitated housing is too expensive. Michelle Spaulding, 20, lived in standard student housing for a semester before finding her current living situation. “I chose to move out because I thought I could save money by finding independent housing,” she said, “ I found the apartment I’m living in now through another AUR student who was leaving Rome. I pay 550 Euro utilities included,” Spaulding continued. Students also use websites like www.por- or and advertisements posted on The AUR campus to find their altenate housing option. “ ...students who have had experience with the Italian real estate market believe university facilitated housing is too expensive. ” THE AUR HOUSING FRAUD OR STUDENT MISCONCEPTION? by Michael Maury THEAUR 26 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
  26. 26. Tickets for Teatro dell’Opera Piazza Beniamino Gigli, 1-00184 Roma Tel. 064-816-0255/064-817-003 - Fax 064-881-755 Box Office opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday 9-5 PM Sunday from 9-1:30; closed on Monday and Festivities Online purchase: | Below 25 and over 65 year olds receive a 30% discount
  27. 27. “I agree, our cost per bed for three months is on average more than what the market can offer,” said Chief Financial Officer of The AUR, Giancarlo Cerchiara. “The cost of housing covers a wide range of expenses, including rent for when the apartments are vacant in between semesters,” he continued. The cost of university facilitated housing also fluctuates from year to year due to currency exchange and two percent yearly inflation rates. Cerchiara said that the university is a non-profit organiza- tion. It subsidizes the cost of the apartments to make them more affordable for students, “Our goal is make our university more convenient and appealing to students,” he said, “If we wanted to make a profit off of the apartments we would start our own real- estate agency.” Primarily two real estate agencies manage The AUR housing program, Your Place in Rome and the International Initiatives Company (ICI). These agencies scout for apartments, contract them out to the university, furnish them and are responsible for maintaining a qualitative standard for students. Elizabeth Petterson and co-owner Alessandro DeFilippo, run Your Place in Rome real estate, located on Viale di Villa Pamphili, 212. In 2007, after working for ICI for 11 years, Petterson and DeFilippo decided to establish their own real estate agency. Petterson had studied in Rome for university and understands how frustrating university housing can be. She knew what students were looking for. “I was lodged in a 100 square meter apartment with 12 other girls and we had to share a restroom and a half,” Petterson said. Petterson and DeFilippo strive to find reliable owners and increase apartment quality standard to satisfy student expectations by providing them with apartments rather than merely student lodging.R Housing Population The real estate agencies are the liaison between the students, their neighbors and the university. Each student apartment is linked both electronically (via instant messaging) and telephoni- cally to the real estate agency. Any problem, question in regards to maintenance or other issue that might arise during the occu- pancy is taken care of by these methods. According to Petterson, the apartment rental price depends on the land lord mark-up, “Unfortunately many owners take advantage of our offers and increase their minimum rent per student,” said Petterson. The established price also covers the renovation costs that occur after each semester. “It is difficult to give owners a high standard for maintaining their apartments, so we do our best to maintain ours,” said Petterson. The apartments’ rooms are usually double occupancy. Stu- dents are not provided with compatibility surveys to match room- mates but they may request to board with specific others. Kathy Bemis, Coordinator of Housing Services at The AUR, discourages this because she believes this approach pulls friends apart, “In the past we’ve had friends pair up but they ended up hating each other because they were too alike,” Bemis said. “ If we wanted to make a profit off of the apartments we would start our own real-estate agency. ” Jeremy Prince, 22, transferred to The AUR in the fall of 2006 from the State University of New York (SUNY). For his first semester, he was placed in a standard apartment with five other transfer students (mostly upper classmen) and shared a room with the only freshman. Prince said that it was strange to live with someone who was so new to college life, “In my old school you had younger and older student dorms. This made it easier to get through the shock of living in a different setting,” he said. Bemis said she does take age and ethnicity into consideration when pairing roommates and believes that mismatching encour- ages diversity and helps students to compromise their skills. Housing Services also mentioned that the female percentage com- pared to that of males at The AUR is much higher. Sometimes the limited number of males restricts the flexibility in pairing male roommates. Fall 2007 Spring 2008 Study Abroad 293 366 Resident 39 16 Total 332 382 Italian “For Rent” Sign THEAUR AUR Housing Occupancy 28 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008
  28. 28. Overall, Prince enjoyed his stay in student housing. “There was no real way around housing because I couldn’t find an apartment for a million reasons, including language barriers” he said. “Hous- ing was beneficial because I got to meet many people but it would have helped if we had someone to help us integrate more into the Ro- man culture.” A few years ago, in an at- tempt to answer to this problem, Bemis started a resgrad (resident- graduate) program at The AUR. University alumni and upper- classmen are eligible for free housing in exchange for assisting enrolled students with housing arrangements. Bemis said that it is important to keep and maintain a respectable and trusting rapport with the neighbors of the university facilitated housing. “The resgrad students help keep an eye on the sometimes lively housing students,” Bemis said. Resgrads also host cooking lessons and plan inexpensive day trips, introducing new students to Roman culture. On average, new resident students spend at least one semester in The AUR facilitated housing arrangements. Bemis believes that housing is an almost neces- sary step for students because it provides students’ parents with a piece of mind. Astrid Chitou, 21, lodged in The AUR housing arrangements for about a year and a half. She admitted that she enjoyed her apartment, especially for its proxim- ity to campus, but she did not choose to stay. Her father was convinced that is was a better option, “He believed there would be less trouble with landlords and a better track record of the finances,” said Chitou. Chitou left The AUR housing because of a problem many students face when transitioning between semesters, check out dates and luggage. To allow the housing agencies enough time to clean up the apartments before the following semester, students are asked to move out the day after finals. “I really didn’t like the pressure that was put on me in terms of the check out dates,” Chitou said. Chitou would like to see the university provide some sort of storage arrange- ment for returning resident students. The AUR facilitated housing is a definate advantage for students who are new to the Italian culture. It is an easy way to integrate and become a part of the university community. Students should also consider indipendent housing if they feel like they are comfortable enough with the Italian language and housing lifestyle. Bedroom in a typical AUR housing arrangement THEAUR | ROMANESCO 29
  29. 29. Via diSanta Dorotea 21 ViadiSantaDorotea 21 Phone 065882079
  30. 30. THEAUR | ROMANESCO 31 STUDENT LIFEAT THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY OF ROME Student Life Office When Roman life gets tough, this office is here to help center. Conveniently located on the ground floor of Building A at AUR, the Student Life Office is a source of general inforrmation, advice and guidance for students new to intercultural living. The Student Services Coordinators arrange the travel plans for field trips and events in conjunction with the academic departments. Popular destinations include Pompei, Capri and even Moscow, Russia! They provide students a chance to learn through extra-curricular, non-academic activities and interaction with the Italian community. The office also hosts various events on campus including pumpkin carving for Halloween, Easter egg painting and Thanksgiving dinner. This office also has the AUR lost-and-found. Check out the Student Services calendar on the offical Univeristy website ( to find out about upcoming events. Student Government The AUR’s Student Government (AURSG) is a great way for you to actively contribute to the growth and development of the University. In regular meetings with the administration and faculty, student officers represent the student body in discussions on the academic and administrative aspects of the university. Also, the AURSG serves the university community by responding to concerns and opinions regarding academics, physical plant and all other aspects of student life at AUR. It provides leadership opportunities for fellow students, and encourages participation within the community through club, charity events and sports teams. AURSG’s objectives and goals strive to enhace the quality of student life at AUR by establishing fundraising initiative, expediting AUR’s accreditation process, maintaining student represenation on varoius university committees and promoting the AUR image in the community. The AURSG office is located on the bottom floor in Building B With no more than 550 students per semester, The American University of Rome (AUR) has a small yet active community. Students and faculty have come together to form seven clubs and various sports teams including a club for every department and one male and female soccer team. Participation in these organizations is open and encouraged to both resident and study abroad students of any discipline with good academic standing. For more detailed information visit the offical site for student life at AUR ( OFFICE OPENING HOURS Mon–Fri 8:30am–7:00pm Fri 8:30am-5:00pm Director of Student Life Study Abroad James H. Lynch, Jr. AURSG Mr. AUR - Talent Show 2007 AUR students in Moscow, Russia
  31. 31. THEAUR 32 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER Soccer WOLVES - AUR’s male soccer team (the Wolves) participated for the first time in the CAMPIONATO DI CALCIO DELLE UNIVERSITA’ ROMANE, a newly founded intercollegiate tournament sponsored by the municipality of Rome in the 2005 Fall semester,. Today, the Wolves still play in this tournament which launches, every cal- endar year, in October and ends in May. 7 Roman universities – AUR, Erasmus, JCU, LUISS, La Sapienza, Roma Tre and University of Malta – compete for the winning trophy. SHE WOLVES - The Spring 2006 semester marked the arrival of the first female soccer team at AUR, the She Wolves. Tryouts started in the second week in January and the turnout was impressive. Over 25 girls showed up to the first practice, which are held twice weekly. With the support and encouragement of the Student Services coordinators, the AUR She Wolves were born and are still active. The She Wolves compete in the PRIMO CAMPIONATO DI CALCETTO FEMMINILE DELLE UNIVERSITA’ ROMANE, the first intercollegiate wom- en’s five-on-five tournament sponsored by the municipality of Rome. Tryouts for the Wolves and She Wolves is held at the beginning of every fall semester. Both residents and study- abroad students are eligible to play. For those of you who would like to simply watch and support the teams, there is a private bus available that leaves from the Archi Bar to take fans to the fields. The buses leave at 7.15 PM. Check the Student Services bulletin board for upcoming games! For more information on soccer, please contact Studet Services coordinator Stefano Stoppaccioli at s.stoppaccioli@ Business Club The Business club was the first club estab- lished at AUR by a group of business students in 2003. The club plans many events and field trips such as the Annual Business Etiquette seminar and trip to Rome’s Expo Center. The club’s first major project was to redesign the AUR logo. The club also applies business strategies for their monthly AUR merchandise sales. Business club at Reach Out Club Founded in 2006, the Reach Out Club devotes their time to raising money through vari- ous fundraising activities for nonprofit organiza- tions and charities around the globe.UNICEF, Habitat for Humanity, The Cape Coast School for the Deaf in Ghana, and Caritas are few of the organizations. The club works within the AUR Community to raise money and awareness for their causes. Reach Out at Italian Club The Italian Studies Club at AUR is spon- sored by its department. Striving to get a more accurate feel for Italian life than is provided by just visiting the museums and historical sites, the club tries to get more involved with the Italian community. Activities include evening get- togethers with Italians to practice speaking the language, learning Italian card games and local cultural field trips. Italian Club at Vocal Ensemble Started in the Spring semester of 2006 by Professor Timothy Martin, the ever-changing group of singers, organizes a recital at the end of each semester. They like to offer a varied program with ensemble pieces as well as indivial solos and diversed genres from Opera to contem- porary music. Usually they perform along with Prof. Martin’s Gospel Choir. Vocal Ensemble at Business Club officers 2006-2007 Reach Out Members 2007-2008 2007 Gospel Choir Italian Club-Card Night
  32. 32. | ROMANESCO 33 oh Rome by Alexandra Nardi Oh Rome! What a beautiful, romantic, civilized city! Let’s back up a second. That’s not what I thought when I arrived. In fact, my first thought was, “What a shithole.” Let’s face it—Rome is dirty. The streets are covered with trash and human pee, and that lovely river that flows through it is also a breeding ground for nutria (those rats the size of dogs). And the smells… Rome is home to many smells, none of which are really pleasant apart from the natural smells in Villa Pamphili or Villa Borghese where the bushes moan and groan with pleasure. Let’s not forget Rome’s modern architecture. Take for example, the Pantheon. Now, the Pantheon is a beauti- ful example of Roman architecture, but it’s charm is cut in half by the McDonald’s parked across the street. Instead of smelling musky and damp like other historical buildings, the Pantheon smells of grease and burgers. So why do I call Rome my home? Why, after stepping in dog crap so many times, or rarely landing a public bathroom with toilette paper, am I complelled to stay here? Well, I can’t really put my finger on it…there’s just something about this city. Even the disgusting trash on the street, and the occasional sight of a homeless man taking a dump are part of Rome’s lure. It was the uncleanliness of the city that made me hate Rome when I first arrived, but it seems that unceanli- ness is really one of the reasons I stayed. It’s like having my cake and eating it too. Let me explain my affection for Rome’s dirt a little better. I am in a historical city, where every building is a landmark and every cobblestone has a recorded history. Therefore, to act accordingly I should always have my intelligent, sophisticated side exposed. I should constantly be going to museums, and churches, and plays. But no one really wants to do that all day, with the exception of a few academics who live for it. And that’s where the trash comes in. It makes the city real and thriving, and not just some historical exhbition meant to be looked at but not touched. Instead it becomes mine, ours. And so, we all lament when we can’t fit our trash into the overflowing trash bins, and we laugh at the snail pace of the grabage men (hey, at least we don’t live in Naples). But we are also grateful to the garbage men and the city for embracing what some call, “La Vita Bella,” and doing just enough to not get fired. Without its trash, Rome would be a giant museum—imper- sonal and functional. And it’s common knowledge that no one moves to Rome for functionality.
  33. 33. Mike’sMarket Memos 34 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2008 Italians are famous for their mouth- watering cooking. This in itself can inspire almost any college student to abandon the microwave and make time for regular trips to the grocery store. When I first moved to Rome, however, I was surprised and disappointed by the sparse selection in my downtown supermarket. There was nothing super about it. The produce section was all-in-all overripe, the poultry was nearly bought out, and even my frozen food safety zone had nothing to offer. Tucked between the winding back streets of the city center are large piazzas, home to the charming open -air markets. These are the hot spots for locals, who spend their mornings choosing the perfect eggplant and socializing with the vendors. Here you can choose from an abundance of nearly any fruit, vegetable or meat your heart desires, an array of fresh flowers and other useful odds and ends. by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels CAMPO DE’FIORI When arriving in Campo De’Fiori (literally “Field of Flowers”) do not expect a pastoral setting. You will find a statue in the piazza raised in memory of Giordano Bruno, a philosopher, who was burned at the stake in 1600 for “heresies” against the Catholic Church. The piazza is a lively hub in the historic center of Rome. It is best known for its morning market of high quality flowers and vegetables which are sold at reasonable prices. In the afternoon and evening, the vendors leave the piazza to the surrounding bars and restaurants. There are also many quality clothing stores on the roads that lead into the piazza. Open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm From AUR : Take bus # 44 towards Pz. Venezia to Via Dandolo. Turn right on Via Glorioso. Take tram # 8 towards Argentina to the Arenula stop and walk down Via dei Giubonari. Campo De’Fiori
  34. 34. © | ROMANESCO 35 PORTA PORTESEEach Sunday morning, bargain-hunting Romans and the city’s new immigrants swarm this over-sized flea market in the Trastevere neighborhood, named after the 17th-century archway at one entrance. It was built on the site of the more ancient Porta Portuense from which it derives its modern name. The position of the ancient gate made it enormously important as it governed the trading traffic between Rome and its port (Ostia) more than 2,000 years ago. Many of the stands sell low priced generic goods and apparel, second-hand items of every imaginable type. There is an antiques sec- tion selling everything from postcards to furniture. Bargains can (and should) be made as long as you are prepared to haggle. Though the market is not know for them, there are a few food stands at the southern end of the market. Watch your valuables! The market is a a hot spot for Rome’s pick- pockets. Open : Sundays from 7am to 2pmFrom AUR : Take bus # 44 towards Pz. Venezia or bus # 75 towards Piazza Indipendenza to the Porta Portese stop SAN GIOVANNI DI DIO The locals know that the vendors of this open-air market sell the most fresh fruits and vegetables in the Monteverde neighbor- hood. Thanks to so many competing vendors the prices are also the most affordable prices. There’s nothing you can’t find here. From spices to toilet paper this market has got it all. The quality of the produce is never questionable but it is recommended to arrive as early as possible to beat the crowd. The size of the market might give you the spins. Don’t lose your cool. There are over 50 stands, so take your time and take a quick glance at all of them. When you have finally decided what you would like to purchase, go to the stands that you think have the best quality at the cheapest prices. Open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm From AUR : Take bus # 44 towards Montalcini to the San Giovanni di Dio stop. Tram #8 towards Casaletto to Piazza San Giovanni di Dio MEMOS Porta Portese main entrance San Giovanni di Dio Fruit Stand
  35. 35. | ROMANESCO 37 VIA DEL VASCELLO This is definately one of the smallest markets in The American University of Rome campus area but it is also the closest. Extremely convenient for students who don’t have the time to go to any other market in the mornings. There are a maximum of seven stands open at a time. Fruits and vegetables are sold and there are also butcher and fish stands. A ferramenta (hardware store) and forno (bakery) are also located on the same street as the market. From AUR : Walk down Carini and turn right on Via Giovanni Livraghi (the street after Simone’s Pizzeria) VIA GIOVANNI BATTISTA NICCOLINI This market holds everything from fresh produce to clothes. Quiet and spacious, it is recognizable for its proximity to the church of Santa Maria Regina Pacis and a large taxi stand. Both markets open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm From AUR : Walk down Via Carini to Pz. Rosolino Pilo PIAZZA SAN COSIMATO Most recognizable for its renovated (almost futuristic) stands, the market of San Cosimato is unique for its slow pace. Very spacious and modern, this market offers little variety but high quality fruits and vegetables. There is also a lovely flower stand at the northern corner of the market (flower stand is open 24/7). Drogheria Innocenzi, located on Via Natale del Grande #66 leading into the piazza, is a well known international food store. The store sells everything from Asian spices to peanut butter. Be aware that the products might be a little pricey. Both markets open : Mon-Fri from 7am to 2pm From AUR : Take bus # 44 towards Pz. Venezia or bus # 75 towards Indipendenza to the Via Dandolo stop. Walk down 100 meters to Piazza San Cosimato. MEMOS Fresh fish at the Niccolini market San Cosimato market
  37. 37. LOCALI Take it from those who have lived here the longest. Various students and faculty members have uncovered the best “locali” (restaurants, bars and clubs) in the vicinity of The American University of Rome. Sit down, relax and enjoy! >> THE BESTof ROME’S CITY CENTER, MONTEVERDE & TRASTEVERE by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels, Caitlin Foley, Michael Maury, Rosi Mosca-Herrera 40 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER Coming Out Pub
  38. 38. Dinner and DeceptioN by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels Tourists pay more than the locals. I like to spend the occa- sional afternoon at one particular bar in Campo de’ Fiori. In the past, they charged me €4 for a lemon soda. Now that I’m recognized and friendly with the staff, a glass of their best red wine and an iced cap- puccino costs €4 ...quite the difference! Dealing with Romans is like attempting to belong to an exclu- sive club. Those who speak the dialect flawlessly are immediately accepted. Everyone else has to put in his time. The best way to avoid being cheated out of a good meal or a good price is to either go to the restaurant or bar with someone who knows the owner, or get taken advantage of enough times at the same place that they eventually recognize you and start to treat you better. It’s all about being a part of the family. I was serving in a restaurant that offered different quality foods to different nationalities. At the beginning of the night, the head chef would tell me, “The fish of the day is the same fish as yesterday. If an Italian asks you, we don’t have it. If a foreigner asks you, let’s get rid of it.” When my 100% Roman boyfriend and I go out to eat I let him do all of the ordering. He gets very insulted if the waiter speaks to us in English. What’s my advice to the average tourist looking for a real good meal in Rome? Stay out of the center. Get away from the tourist menus and English-speaking staff. It’s hard to find a bad restaurant in Italy if you’re in the small towns or outskirts. A foreigner will take them by surprise as opposed to convincing them to dilute pasta sauce. Restuarants-LOCALI AL PAO A traditional Italian restaurant, it is impressive for the quality of its food. While Al Pao is known for its pizza, its pasta and other fried food dishes are also worth trying.The prices are average and the decor is simple and modern. Piazza ottavilla 14/a Tel: 06 5818413 LE FATE This restaurant has an English speaking staff which will go out its way to make you feel at home. The decor is slightly whimsical and romantic. It has the best atmosphere to enjoy a tradi- tional Italian meal. The food is slightly gourmet style and the desserts are to die for! Viale Trastevere 130 Tel: 06 5800971 HARD ROCK CAFE’ While Hard Rock is on the touristy side, you really can’t compete with its American fare and atmosphere. If you’re craving a big burger, french fries, complete with an English speaking staff and great music, Hard Rock is the place to be. Via Vittorio Veneto 62 a/b Tel: 06 4203051 IL CANTINONE Serving traditional Italian fare, this restaurant atmosphere is laid-back and cozy, and the staff is accommo- dating. The antipasti are particularly worthwhile, as is the house wine. The menu is simple. There is some- thing to satisfy a variety of palettes. Piazza Testaccio Tel: 06 5746253 THAI INN Restaurant with a homely atmo- sphere offering specialities from Thai and Indonesian cuisine. The peanut sauce with cucumbers is delicious. Treat the staff well and they might receive a complimentary bottle of wine! Via Ozanam 94 Tel: 06 58203145 CI LIN A delicious Chinese restau- rant located in the heart of Trastevere. The prices are extremely cheap, and the quality and portions of the food are definitely worth your money. The dumplings are reminiscent of those you might find in Chinatown in New York City. Via Fonte D’Olio 6 Tel: 06 5813930 DA SIMONE This take-away pizza shop is one of the best in Rome. There are a wide variety of toppings and a few side dish- es including fried food and veggies. Make sure to have their suppli, a deep-fried rice ball with tomatoe sauce and cheese. It’s to die for! Via Giacinto Carini 50 Tel: 06 5814980 ARISTOCAMPO Craving something satisfying after a long night out? Then this sandwich place is the place to be. The sandwich combinations on the menu satisfy a range of tastes or simply create your own from a range of delicious ingredients to stuff your fresh ciabatta bun. Piazza Campo de’Fiori Tel: 06 58335530 | ROMANESCO 41 Ci Lin Chinese Restaurant
  39. 39. The Italian ‘Mac’N’Cheese” by Kelsea Brennan-Wessels American college kids don’t always have time to cook. Between study- ing for exams, classes and enjoying the “college experience,” the normal weeknight meal is two minutes in the microwave. That’s a little hard if you live in a country where KRAFT Macaroni and Cheese doesn’t exist and microwaves are not common. Pizza gets old after the first two weeks and the Chinese take-out can start to burn a hole in your pocket. So, what’s for dinner? Cacio e Pepe. It’s quick, it’s easy, and it’s the closest thing that you’re going to get to good old mac and cheese. Made from the Roman staples (pasta, olive oil, pecorino cheese, parme- san cheese, salt and pepper), it is the best dish for those days when you have “nothing in the house.” Recipe Ingredients: 2 tbsp. salt, 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, 300 grams of pasta (preferably spaghetti or rigatoni), 50 grams grated pecorino cheese, 50 grams grated parmesan cheese, 1 tbsp. ground black pepper 1) Bring a pot of water to a boil and add salt. 2) Drop in the pasta. 3) When the pasta is al dente, drain the water and return the pasta to the pot. 4) Add olive oil, the grated cheeses and pepper. Stir. Hint - If it comes out chunky add more oil (or a spoonful of the pasta water) LOCALI-Restaurants/Bars MISCELLANEA Also known as the “love wine place,” this student ori- ented pub is has the cheapest beer and wine. It is known for its great (and cheap) selection of large sandwiches and fresh salads. It is popular among students who want to hang out and watch sporting events on the big screen. Via delle Paste 110 A TAKE SUSHI This Japanese restaurant is elegant and romantic. There is a floor sitting area in the back that you can reserve to have an authentic Japanese meal experience. Try the ginger or the green tea ice- cream after your meal. Sushi doesn’t get better than this. Viale Trastevere 4 Tel: 06 5810075 TAVERNA LUCIFERO Seating 90 people, this cozy spot is just off of Campo de’Fiori. This place has the feel of an undiscovered secret for its location. They do not have a house wine but his bar/pub is great for after dinner drinks or shots. Fondue is served at night. Via dei Cappellari 28 06 68805536 LE PIRAMIDI This Egyptian/, Middle Eastern and Lebanese foo shop is considered a “hidden treasure.” Food is hand-made using orginal spices and recipes. Everything is from fresh, from the pita bread to the desserts. Find Greek specialities here too. Via del Gallo 11 Tel: 06 6879061 L’INSALATA RICCA This restaurant special- izes in salads. There are over 20 different combinations to choose from. There is also a great selection of typical pizzas and pasta dishes. The house wine is also very tasty. Prices are quite affordable. Via G. Garibaldi, 8 Tel: 06 58300096 FINNS If you’re looking for a place to find a decent American-style burger and fries, Finn’s is the place to go. The laid back Irish pub atmosphere and cheap prices add to its appeal. It is also very close to the AUR campus. Some say it is better than Hard Rock Cafe. Viale Di Villa Pamphili 54 Tel: 06 5812260 SURYA MAHAL A great restaurant if you are looking for ethnic food with a twist. Serving traditional Indian dishes, the staff is very knowledgeable and will make various sugges- tions to satisfy what you are looking for. The outside siting area is lovely and the food is well worth the slightly expensive prices. Via di Ponte Sisto 67 Tel: 06 5894554 FRENI E FRIZIONI #1 for aperitivo in Rome. Pay 5 euro for a drink, and enjoy an expansive buffet table, complete with a va- riety of foods. The dipping sauces at one end of the table are not to be missed. Freni e Frizioni is small and tends to get crowded, so take your food out into the piazza and enjoy the scenery. Via Del Politeama 4 Tel: 06 58334210 Sign at Taverna Lucifero 42 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
  40. 40. Bars-LOCALI TRINITY COLLEGE This three story bar/pub/ club is the most cosmo- politan hangout in Rome. It is famous for its cocktails and up to date music. The crowd is very international. V. del Collegio Romano 6 Tel: 06 6786472 SCHOLARS LOUNGE This Irish pub is Irish owned and run. They have a wide selection of beer on draft, wine and wiskey. Giant televisions screens project the most important soccer or football matches. Via del Plebiscito 101b 06 69202208 COMING OUT This pub offers beer, cock- tails and snacks. Popular among the youthful crowd of gay men and women. A good place to meet before heading off in search of something a bit more frantic. V. S.Giovanni in Laterano 8 06 7009871 THE DRUNKEN SHIP The purpose of this bar? To bring to Italy the American way of life. Considered one of the first real “drinking” bars in Rome, The Drunken Ship offers a great selection of cocktails and shots. Campo de’Fiori 20 06 68300535 MAD JACKS This Irish pub has an elaborate beer menu to match its Irish theme. Popular with English speakers and tourists, head to Mad Jacks if you are craving a beer and an evening with fellow English speakers. Try their Cashel cider made from fermented sweet apples. Via Arenula 20 06 68808223 ABBEY THEATRE Renowed for being “a slice of Ire- land in Italy” this Irish pub is very popular among university students. Its name derives from the Irish National Theatre. Stage props and costumes decorate the interior of the pub. Via del Governo Vecchi 51 Tel: 06 6861341 MR.BROWNS While Mr. Browns may look incongruous from the outside, what it really has to offer is not in its décor, but rather on its Happy Hour menu. Between 7-10 every night, drink prices are slashed in half. Come here for beer, cocktails or shots. Vicolo del Cinque 29 06 5812913 ON THE ROX This bar is a “hot spot” for many AUR students. The staff speaks eng- lish and the drinks are cheap. Open till 5 am this bar is conveniently located in the (clubbing) Testaccio area. Pre-party here (in or outside) and you won’t regret it. Via Galvani 54 06 45492975 LA BOTTICELLA Family-run, this wine bar/pub has been serving since 1904. Watch the bustling of people as you sit and enjoy your favorite Italian or in- ternational beer or wine. There is a barrel full of slightly salted peanuts for the customers to enjoy. Perfect after dinner spot near Pz. Navona Via di Tor Millina 32 MAGNOLIA This cafe/lounge is definately one of the more elegant in its area. It is very popular with international students for its familiar list of cock- tails, beer and wine. Sit inside to enjoy Hip-Hop music or outside to take part in the busy piazza. Campo de’Fiori 4 Tel: 06 68309367 SHISHA’ One of 3 hookah bars in Rome, this one stands out because it serves alcohol and has very cozy decor. There are pillows and mats to lounge on. It’s a great place to enjoy a night till 3 am. Via S. Francesco a Ripa 135 Tel: 3332514472 FROM HELL This pub’s decor is insipred by 1850 London for its paintings remember “Jack The Ripper.” It has a cozy atmosphere and a great selec- tion of beer and wine. Perfect for a first date. Via Benedetta 17 06 58331645 “On-The-Go” Menu at Mr. Browns Aristocampo in Campo de’Fiori | ROMANESCO 43
  41. 41. CAYOTE This club is many things including a pub, bar and discoteque. The large terrace here is idea to catch a breath after dancing inside. The party starts at 9PM and most im- portant of all it has no cover, which means no entry fee and more money for drinks. Via di Monte Testaccio, 48b 3394639667 CARUSO This is where many of Rome’s salsa-aficionados come to hang out and dance. Caruso features live Latin American music most nights of the week and similar DJ-sets after- wards. The bar gets packed by the end of the night. Get there early to beat the crowd. Via di Monte Testaccio 36 06 5745019 AKAB Famous for its well-kown deejays and special guests, this club is one of the most popular in the Testaccio area. There are two dance floors with seperate deejays, two bars and a relaxing VIP area. There is also an outdoor smoking area. Via di Monte Testaccio 69 06 57250585 ART CAFE Considered the “disco of the moment,” Art Cafe is large with multiple dance floors adn theme nights including fashion Tuesdays, live jazz and dinner Thursdays and Friday hip-hop. Reserve your VIP table ahead of time, this high-end club tends to get very crowded. Via del Galoppatoio 33 06 36006578 LA MAISON The doormen to this small club might be difficult to get through, but the wait is worth it. Low, dark couches surround the spacious checker-tiled dance floor. The drinks are expensive but made quickly. A place to relax and dance freely to a wide variety of music. Vicolo dei Granari 3 Tel: 06 6833312 GILDA This club is an elegant, sophisticated and comfortable lounge. It is a popular venue for fashion shows and art exhibits. Gilda’s comfortable surroundings, dance floor and excellent piano bar add up to a great night out. They serve food until midnight. Via Mario de Fiori 97 06 6784838 SHANGO’ This Hip-Hop club has two bars. There are two plasma screens and elegant, white sofas in the VIP areas. There is also an indoor smoking area near the dancefloor. Well- known deejays and interna- tional celebrities can be spoted here. Via San Saba 11/a 3331818498 LOCALI-Clubs Gilda on a Wednesday Night HANGAR Hangar is one of the first gay bars/clubs in Rome. The dark rooms, soft techno beat and stiff cocktails are what you will find appealing before experiencing a live male striptease. As you pay for your entrance make small-talk with the friendly owner. Via in Selci 69 06 4881397 42 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 44 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
  42. 42. ALPHEUS Do you like a variety of music genres? Alpheus brings in all kinds of music. Each room has its own genre. It isn’t the closest to down town but that is what makes it more appealing. You will find more of a local crowd here if you want to party like the Romans do. Via del Commercio 36 06 5747826 ALIBI This club is one of the largest clubs in Testaccio. It has two floors of House and Hip-Hop music and in the summer the roof terrace is also acces- sible. The crowd tends to be predominately gay. Make sure to check out the Drag-Queens on Thursday and Sunday nights. Via di Monte Testaccio 44 06 5743448. COSMOPOLITAN Packed on Friday and Saturday nights, this club has two dance floors in two different rooms and three bars throughout the club. The VIP area is great because there is no place to sit otherwise. Driving or Taxing here is ideal for there is no pub- lic transportation that passes by. Via Portuense 74 3934786744 MUCCASSASINA Also known as Qube, this club has almost become a Roman legend. Not only does it have three floors with different types of music, but the number of international guests and djs that make appearences here are numerous. This club is also famous for its theme nights. Via di Portonaccio, 212 06 5413985 JOIA Trendy and fashionable, this two-story music restaurant has a small dance floor and piano bar and a small restaurant on the roof, which in the late hour becomes a dance floor as well. If the entrance line is long, be patient for the drinks are great! Popular with up-scale Romans. Via Galvani 20 06 5740802 GOA This clubs has ethnic decor and well-known DJs. House, Jungle, Hip-Hop and Tribal mu- sic are compulsory sounds. The disco has a central bar which is surrounded by sofas to lounge on. The admission fee varies depending on the ever-changing theme (or event). Via Libetta, 13 3473208122 PIPER One of the most famous discos of the capital, Piper is home of Roman Underground, House as well as Rock and Disco music since the 1970s. It has been renovated many times since and is now a mix of metropolitan and post-modern styles. Satur- day brings a mostly gay crowd. Via Tagliamento 9 06 8555398 HEAVEN Fairly new, this club is very relaxing becuase of the number of sofas surrounding the dance floor. There is also an ajoining room for private parties. There is a buffet available every Fri- day and Saturday beginning at 9:30 PM, usually accompanied by live Jazz and Blues music. Viale di Porta Ardeatina 119 3473208122 Clubs-LOCALI Typical night at Hangar | ROMANESCO 45
  43. 43. BLOOM Only a few years old, Bloom attracts a stylish and hip crowd. The art deco bar and restaurant, are fruit of a minimal, ultra- modern renovation in a former 14th-century chapel. It has a sushi bar on the second floor. Via del Teatro Pace 30 06 6882029 ALIEN Alien provides a bizarre space- age dance floor complete with strobe lights rocking to the sounds of House/Techno music. Occasionally, an emcee will interject briefly for a cabaret or comedy act. It is only open on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Via Velletri Nuovo 13 06 8412212 HULALA Complete with hanging decorative beads, gold rimmed furniture and bright colors, it is no wonder a fashion designer established this club. It offers a classic, disco-like dancefloor. The music varies from House to classic 40’s music. Via Dei Conciatori 7 BIG MAMA Also known as the “Roman House of Blues” this club offers a variety of live performances from. The bar offers an ex- tensive menu of cocktails and food. It is best to reserve a table if you would like a place to sit for the shows. V. San Francesco a Ripa 18 06 5812551 GROOVE There are two floors in this club. The second is dedicated to R’N’B and Soul music while the first (bottom) floor is trans- formed into an art gallery with live music on Monday nights. Come here to lounge or dance. Via del Pellegrino 79 3348534624 NEW SCARABOCCHIO Though recently remodeled, this club still retains its 70s characteristics thanks to the abstract paintings on the walls. The dancefloor is large. In case you get tired of dancing there is a spacious lounging area. Piazza Dei Ponziani 8/C 06 99704430 SESTO SENSO Though it’s a little out of the way, this club is one of the oldest clubs in Rome. There are four rooms with music rang- ing from Commercial to 70’s classics. There are also Latin American nights. Via di Grottarossa 175 3348821757 LOCALI-Clubs Dance Floor by Adrienne Hawkins Place your hands around me in as bold a fashion as you dare. The cup in my hand has assured that you won’t be getting pushed away tonight. I can barely look up so I’m staring a little over your shoulder, and my hair is blocking some of my vision. It’s divided the room into slanted rectangles, and I can see blurred slices of what’s going on around me. The orange light reflecting off the walls coming from the unnatural lighting up above. The other people moving to the same rhythm we’re trying to keep up with. They’re all figureless, just bodies swathed in black swaying to the music. I can hear myself wonder- ing why everyone always wears black to go out more than I can hear the music. The music is not playing, it’s living. Notes are spilling from the stage and wrapped all around the tiny club, around the dancers, and it’s even in my alcohol. Guide me through what little open spaces there are. My cup is almost empty, so you’ve got to be a good leader. Now your hands are changing positions, and it almost confuses me because I need your shoulder to bal- ance. Spin me as much as you like, because my world is already going around faster and faster. Bump me into the people we came with, they’ve got cups too and don’t care. The more I sip the better I’m following you, so please don’t stop leading. Now hold me closer as you can sense the song’s almost over, and you need to get enough of my body to remember after we part. Keep moving on this dance floor, and the night will never end. Entrance to ETO’ ETO’ Eto’ is a two story club. You can find House music on the bottom floor and Hip-Hop, R’N’B and commerical music above. The VIP area is small but worth reserving. Remember to dress to impress! Via Galvani 46 3298240744 46 ROMANESCO | SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER
  44. 44. ...studying to receive your degree from a lead- ing American university while living in the heart of the beautiful and historic Eternal City. St. John’s University, fully accredited with a global reputation for excel- lence, allows you to complete your MA or MBA degree or to study abroad for a semester while pursuing your undergraduate degree. St. John’s is one of America’s leading Catholic universities. Through our Rome programs, you can study for a summer or a semester—and even think about continuing for graduate studies in Government and Politics or an International MBA! Rome is a home campus for St. John’s students. That means your financial aid and scholarship funds apply directly just as they do for a semester’s tuition at our New York campuses. Can you picture yourself in Rome? Graduate Programs St. John’s University Via di Santa Maria Mediatrice, 24 Rome Italy 00165 Tel: +39-06-393-842 E-mail: Picture yourself in Rome...
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