If you think party season is over, think again!
The Saint Laurent glitter ball is spinning into
town and mesmerising every post Studio 54
fashionista in its disco trajectory.
Words by Louise Fisher.
Images Catwalking.com [except cover photo]
Paris Fashion week’s most sought-after ticket for Spring Summer
2015 was none other than Saint Laurent’s seventies-inspired show,
a hedonistic mix of gold lamé, black leather, sequins, stripes and
scarves all delivered with a fierce sexed-up attitude. Of course,
Hedi Slimane didn’t get his reputation as leader of the fashion
cognoscente for nothing, the revived brand is stylishly adopted by
everyone from London’s cool kids to the Hollywood It-crowd when
dressing to make a statement.
True to form, the SS15 collection is achingly cool, inspiringly sexy
yet appealingly wearable. A plethora of famous faces were seen
on and off the runway with Cara Delevingne walking for the brand
and Daisy Lowe, Miles Kane and Daft Punk’s Thomas Bangalter (to
name but a few) kicking back on the front row.
The Paris show began with the breathy French vocals of Aleide’s
“1,2,3” whilst disco lights bounced off silver frames suspended
above the runway, creating a trippy holographic effect. As the girls
appeared in sky-high platforms, plunging necklines and micro minis,
the vibe was sexy and feminine whilst maintaining a grungy “up
all night” attitude. Black leather jackets and sheer black stockings
contrasted against kitsch prints and flirty metallics. Intricately-
stitched sequin dresses sparkled like jewels in the night whilst
Breton stripes and floral prints created new interest. Accessories
were a major talking point of the collection with wide-brimmed hats
in bright purple, red and forest green and skinny patterned scarves
tied at the neck in true seventies style.
Footwear took the form of high platform sandals, and stamped
their authority with miniskirts and halter-neck dresses. Feminine
turbans were also given a rock ‘n’ roll twist, pairing them with black
dresses and leather as opposed to the more girly interpretations
seen elsewhere. The YSL statement suit has been given a new
lease of life and is once again a go-to look for both men and
women, especially on the red carpet. These immaculate trouser
suits, coined ‘le smoking,’ and originally seen on the likes of Bianca
Jagger and Brigitte Bardot, are now being donned by celebrities
such as Angelina Jolie, Emma Watson and Lou Doillon.
The signature Saint Laurent tuxedo was of course present at the
Paris show but suitably adopted more of a back seat than in previous
seasons. Instead we saw slinky gold lame, thick waist belts, trench
coats and statement lapel jackets stealing the limelight. Models,
painted seductively with smoky kohl-rimmed cat eyes and free-
flowing tousled hair, effortlessly usurped the ‘party girl’ throne with
a more appropriate ‘after-party’ fashion crown.
The inimitable Cara Delevingne, took to the runway a few minutes
into the show. Donning multi-tonal tan suede jacket, graphic
floral shirt, high waist leather skirt, skinny black scarf and sheer
black stockings, eloquently thrown together, she would not have
looked out of place backstage at a Rolling Stones gig circa 1975.
The real show-stopper however, was Delevingne’s second outfit
which oozed Ringmaster cool. Consisting of a wide-brimmed hat,
black sequinned chemise, leopard-print mini skirt and the pièce de
résistance: a red circus-style jacket, it demonstrated once again
the brand’s astute awareness of the power of a great jacket! Quirky
and eye-catching yet wearable enough for mass appeal, expect to
see variations on the high street come the summer.
Silhouettes were fitted and streamlined - pulled in at the waist at
every opportunity. Risqué sheer blouses tucked into high-waist
skirts and glitzy spaghetti-strap dresses echoed Studio 54 glamour,
whilst black cape dresses, belted with thick black leather, added
drama and sophistication. Where the sharp tailoring and masculine
jackets gave a contemporary feel, the appearance of a red feathered
bolero and cream fur (draped over one shoulder only) was more
reminiscent of early left-bank YSL chic of the late ‘60s.
Combine these contrasting styles, add a seventies disco kick and
you should have a good idea of where Saint Laurent are at for
SS15. A reinforcement that spring style does not have to involve
pastel colours or preppy styling, and of course pays homage to the
classic cool of summer black.
In spite of controversy surrounding the French fashion house since
Hedi Slimane’s appointment, most notably changing the brand’s
name from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent Paris, sales have
gone through the roof. Undoubtedly a nod in the right direction for
its head designer. It should come as no surprise therefore, that in
conjunction with the retro theme on the runway, the house have
unveiled the 1970s icon Joni Mitchell as the latest face to endorse
the brand. The new ad campaign, photographed by Slimane
himself, was announced on Twitter with a picture of the talented
singer/songwriter equipped with guitar, and sporting a dramatic
wide brimmed fedora. If this wasn’t proof that the seventies are
firmly back this season, then I don’t know what is.
Saint Laurent delightfully took us on a trip down memory lane with
discothèque proportions, and the ride was a pulsating one. With a
focus on mixing seventies sex appeal and grunge-esque attitude
to create an edgier approach to the new season, they have once
again, delivered in style. Remaining faithful to their new-found rock
‘n’ roll orientation, the brand will be extremely difficult to match for
imbuing the modern woman with rock-star je ne sais quoi, and the
‘coolest girl at the fashion party’ has unmistakably.....
just got cooler. LF