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The Independent Fragrant NL by Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes
newsletter
BRAND NEWS
Bon Parfumeur
Maison Caron
Lolita Lempicka
WOMEN PERFUMERS
Joëlle Lerioux-Patris
Mélanie Leroux
Maïa Lernout
Caroline Dumur
LAUNCHES
ABOUT LUXURY
A new book
Luxury & vegan fragrances
Dear Readers, Happy New Year 2020!
Welcome to this new toPNotes Newsletter, n #74
If the form of this letter has changed, its independent spirit
and aim remain the same.
Telling, inspiring, supporting the creativity of the brands
and highlighting the talent of our perfume industry is still
the purpose of this letter.
Enjoy reading this new issue and thanks for your support.
Nathalie Pichard + Barbara Preyssas (Australian/English eyes)
Alexandra Lasry
alexandralasry-macroartphotographe.com
Courtesy photo (Temple Doors Hue in Vietnam)
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
This amazing brand was imagined in Paris in 2016 by
founder Ludovic Bonneton. A man passionate about
perfumery.
Contemporary yet authentic, “3 notes” names yet rare,
Bon Parfumeur is all about noble ingredients, high quality
and distinctive uniqueness thanks to its talented creative
community of Artists, Artisans, Perfumers and Designers.
Bon Parfumeur eaux de parfum are divided into 10
olfactory easy-to-understand families (cologne, fruity,
aromatic…). They have been composed by 6
unconventional French perfumers (Philippe Romano,
Alexandra Monet, Corinne Cachen, Karine Sereni,
Nathalie Koobus, Benoît Lapouza, Sidonie Lancesseur,
Serge de Oliveira, Jacques Chabert) with a double
mission: give each one of us the freedom to pick and
choose not just one but several perfumes to wear depending
on one’s mood, personality, season, occasion, time of the
day / night etc….and/or playfully mix & match 2 or 3
accords to become its very own Perfume Master.
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
Artistic Perfumery.
The first collection is made up of 21 transparent
bottles, available in 30 and 100 ml. Each fragrance has
a special colour code label and 3 main ingredients
written on the bottle. The second line, called ‘Les
Privés’ aims to provoke olfactory shocks and is made
up of rare ingredients. The bottle is smoky.
Some collaborations with artists are signed, in limited
editions.
Bon Parfumeur opened its first Parisian Boutique Rue des
Francs-Bourgeois in Le Marais. The distribution is hybrid.
More than 1 000 points of sale: perfumeries, concept stores,
department stores, e-shop…
BRAND NEWS
Bon Parfumeur is a Maison de
Parfum,100% made in France,
100% clean - whose creative
universe extends far beyond the
traditional codes of world
renowned / acclaimed /
celebrated Classic French
perfumery.
For more info: www.bonparfumeur.com
Ernest Daltroff and Félicie
Wampouille, owners and
creators of the Maison. They
both created perfumes, powders
and beauty products.
Ernest as the Perfumer and
Félicie, in charge of the brand
image, packaging etc.
A new story with Jean Jacques. New unexpected synergies are to come in a couple of
months.
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
Created in 1904 by a duo of strong personalities, Ernest
Daltroff and Félicie Wampouille (his muse) who was
milliner, CARON knew a fabulous (hi)story of fragrant
creativity by launching iconic fragrances such as Tabac
Blond, Pour Un Homme de Caron, Fleurs de Rocaille,
Bellodgia, Farnésiana, Pois de Senteur,… available in
boutiques or selective points of sale.
Maison CARON woke up last year when Ariane de
Rothschild decided to acquire it and offer it a strong rebirth.
This woman, passionate about heritage, patrimony and
perfumes wants to make Caron alive and modern.
She appointed Jean Jacques, as the new nose of the House.
Ariane and her team are doing a complete revamping of
the brand with the will of respecting the brand essence,
making it grow while balancing between responsibility and
disruptive creations.
Jean Jacques works closely with Ariane de
Rothschild to highlight Caron’s DNA (luxury and
freedom), create new refined fragrances in Grasse,
thanks to LMR natural ingredients (For Life
certification) and IFF captives and raw materials. Jean
Jacques created his first collection of 4 feminine
fragrances to illustrate the duality so dear to Caron
(duality in ingredient and in female-male personality).
4 New fragrances
Rose Ivoire is a delicate powdery floral
with Turkish rose, iris and white pepper.
Rose Ebène is a dark rose with black
pepper and coffee, in the sillage of
Narcisse Noir. Tabac Noir is an homage
to famous Tabac Blond with tobacco
and patchouli from Bali, with leathery
accents. Tubéreuse Merveilleuse is a
fresh tuberose spiced by a zesty ginger,
sustained by a gourmand vanilla.
For more info: www.parfumscaron.com
BRAND NEWS
Mon Premier Parfum. The first
apple fragrance, the forbidden fruit
scent was signed by Annick
Menardo in 1997. Recognizable,
addictive with liquorice, violet,
cherry, an edible fragrance that
marked the 90’s. Mon Premier
Parfum by Lolita Lempicka is one of
those rare perfumes that the nose
recognizes before the lips have time to
pronounce the name. In 2017, for her
20 years in the world of fragrance,
Lolita Lempicka wants to reinvent and
reinvest herself. She offers a new look
to her precious fragrance. The famous
apple of Eden reveals new, more
modern forms, and calls a little more
to temptation.
The brand is available in many countries, and in France
you can find Lolita Lempicka in several retailers such as
Sephora ou Nocibé. Good news for fans, the brand will
be strengthened and more visible in retail thanks to
Excellence Diffusion, specialized in French
distribution, run by former Lempicka’s sales director,
Yannick Decary (www.excellencediffusion.com)
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
Lolita Lempicka. The Garden of Even.
Lolita Lempick is such an amazing name: a homage to the artist
Tamara Lempicka and to Nabokov’s novel, Lolita (romantic young
girl).
Lolita Lempicka is a committed woman and a creative woman. She
has created a world that everyone dreams of, by her creative
expression. She imposed herself as the creator of a magical and
enchanting world, which invites people to dream and get out of
their daily life.
“Fashion, this word make me dream. To realize my childhood
dream by creating a fairy tale image in the modern universe for the
woman of today. A refined imaginary universe captured in a
romantic perfume."
"I always dreamt the idea of love being fugitive, capturing the
crazy happiness of the humour of life. A memory awakened by a
trace of perfume as generous as the pleasure given.“
The Lolita Lempicka woman is feminine, romantic, mysterious and
her perfumes, a poetry of color and form, of sensation and
emotion.
Soon, Lolita fragrances will be claimed
vegan (without leather, musk, ambergris,
beeswax etc.) and cruelty free. The entire
portfolio will be reformulated in 2020 to
respect Lolita Lempicka’s commitment and
her love for animals (no animal testing as
well). The fragrances are Mon Premier
Parfum, Sweet, So Sweet, Mon Eau,
Lolitaland, Oh Ma Biche, Lempicka
Homme, Lempicka Green Lover (pic).
For more info: www.lolitalempicka.com
BRAND NEWS
Saying Joëlle is a passionate perfumer is putting it mildly! She breathes perfumes. She is
really a purist perfumer, sincere, searching for the right scent. For her clients.
Her background resembles her strong personality. After years in Fragrance Houses,
Mane (in Asia, for more than 10 years), Expressions Parfumées, Fragrance Resources
France, she founded her own laboratory, Le Parfumeur Français, in 2019, located
where she lives in the South of France. The way she likes to work with her clients is
sharing, being close to them to better understand what they want and then…. illustrate it
into scents.
Mélanie LEROUX
Mademoiselle Parfumette
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
PERFUMERS
https://www.leparfumeurfrancais.com
joelle@leparfumeurfrancais.com
Joëlle LERIOUX-PATRIS
Le Parfumeur Français
Independent for 10 years, Mademoiselle Parfumette, aka Mélanie Leroux, is a
true perfumer, mixing her sensitiveness, discretion and efficiency.
She doesn’t have a high profile but creates fragrances with passion and rigor for
her clients, dedicated to providing the best service.
Mélanie formulates for skin care products, fine fragrances or ambience, and
accompanies her clients with the same desire for tailor-made service.
Confidence and trust are essential in her working creative process.
Joëlle worked for prestigious international brands. She signed various
fragrances such as Colonia Mirra & new Camelia Acqua Di Parma… Oud &
Bergamot Rich Extract Jo Malone, Rose Ardente & Encens Divin L'Atelier
de Givenchy, La Rose Gothique LeSnob, Les Parfums de Rosine, Eau
Demoiselle Rose à la folie Givenchy … And works on new projects.
Her savoir-faire is well organized. All perfumes she creates are produced in Grasse with
Accords et Parfums (Independent Fragrance House founded by Olivier Maure). This
exclusive partnership allows her to use also the best ingredients, safety and regulations,
all tools needed to guarantee the quality of her creations.
Mélanie works for various cosmetic and perfume brands such as Première
Note, Miss Ferling, Marina de Bourbon, Franck Boclet, Mona di Orio, Ioma,
Nuhanciam, Une Jolie Histoire (candle in picture)…
When she’s asked about her favorite ingredients, Joëlle chooses patchouli as her main
olfactory obsession and reasurance. Technically, patchouli brings sillage, diffusion and
multi-faceted notes. For her, patchouli also gives confidence, reassurance and strength.
A raw material of emotion. Joëlle is not only a friend who continues to surprise and
teach me, she is a great perfumer.
http://www.mademoiselleparfumette.com/
melanieleroux@mademoiselleparfumette.com
Since a few years, to answer a growing demand, she has been developing olfactory
signature scents for hotels or companies. Her network of glass makers, wax producers
and packagers allows her to drive projects from A to Z.
Attention: a new talent to discover!
Passion for odours from her childhood, determination to be a perfumer.
Caroline came to perfumery naturally, directed by her passion for fragrances
and odours. After ISIPCA, internships at Charabot and Mane, she was
welcomed at IFF by Master Perfumer Anne Flipo who accompanied her for 3
years. She was taught by LMR teams and went to Asia to master her traineeship.
Caroline is really a perfumer who intrigued me when I smelled L’Odeur du
Théâtre du Chatelet Acte I she composed for Comme des Garçons. I really found
it in CDG’s DNA! And that’s the reason why Caroline is introduced in this
newsletter. The fragrance looks like her: determined, sharp, inspired, mastered.
Her interest in difficult/special raw materials such as incense, rose or aldehydes
says a lot about her personality. She likes olfactory challenges such as overdoses
of ingredients.
PERFUMERS
Caroline DUMUR
Junior Perfumer IFF
Caroline and Anne signed perfumes such as Lolita Lempicka Sweet, So
Sweet; Paco Rabanne Pure Excess Night or Vetiver Moss by Alexander
Mac Queen… and alone, Comme des Garçons, Clash: Chlorophyll
Gardenia…
Maïa loves all ambery fragrances since she discovered Must Cartier.
Secret: the funny thing is that when she was young, she used to wear Mon
Premier Parfum Lolita Lempicka and was offered a small wooden doe as a
charm. A sign? Oh ma Biche…!
Among her creations: Cool Water Wave Woman, Le Parfum Royal and
Le Parfum Essentiel Elie Saab (photo), Green Lover, Oh Ma Biche
Lolita Lempicka, Flora Luminare Molton Brown.
Some collaborations with Francis Kurkdjian: La collection des Essences
and Rose Couture Elie Saab; Classique Intense & Ultra Male Jean Paul
Gaultier; Kenzo World fragrances; Nina Ricci L’Extase, L’Extase
Caresse de Roses, Rose Absolue and Rose Extase; Lolita Lolitaland.
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
A name to recall! Maïa Lernout is a new French perfumer I wanted to highlight
when I first discovered the perfume composition Green Lover Lolita Lempicka. I
adored immediately. She works at Takasago and was taught by Master Perfumer
Francis Kurkdjian with whom she created many fragrances.This sparkling
Parisian woman is often inspired by nature in the South of France where she
lived. Her favorite ingredients are Rose, Ciste Labdanum and Immortelle (she’d
like to integrate it more!).
Maïa was hired by Takasago for her expertise in natural materials. She studied in
various Fragrance Houses such as Biolandes, Robertet, Kao.
Maïa LERNOUT
Perfumer TAKASAGO
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
LAUNCHES
Spice must Flow & 500 years
Etat Libre d’Orange
Gris Charnel & Nuit de Sable
BDK
The Art of Perfume
Collezione Privata & Pallazzo Nobile
Storie Veneziane Valmont
Love Osmanthus
Atelier Cologne
W/ood Rose
Jean Michel Duriez
Paris
Couleur Vanille
L’Artisan Parfumeur
Beau de Jour
Tom Ford
L’Homme Rochas
Rochas
French Gallantry
State of Mind
A selection of new fragrances
conceived as messengers of
French gallantry, couture, art,
seduction, addiction, luxury,
lifestyle or just about
ingredients.
All olfactory families are
illustrated.
Collection Fleur d’Oranger
Sylvaine Delacourte Paris
Aqua Millefolia, Aqua Palmaris,
Aqua Amantia
Cologne Botanique Absolue
Le Couvent
Isabelle Musnik is CEO of INfluencia, a
media pusblishing a daily newsletter and a
magazine on trends and influence. Yves
Hanania is CEO of Lighthouse, a strategy
and branding consultancy.
Philippe Gaillochet is an independent
management consultant, co-founder of the
Ipesup group, co-founder & director of the
MBA Institute.
N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
"The future of luxury will be multidimensional" says Yves
Hanania.
A new book about luxury is always welcome, as the subject has
never been so ‘buzz word’ nowadays. Yves Hanania, Isabelle
Musnik and Philippe Gaillochet, the three authors of this book
wrote about the future of luxury and its next challenges.
“A generation of Millennials on the rise, a digital revolution,
professional influencers, the distribution revolution, new brand
ecosystems, an ultra-luxury sector that’s exploding, celebrities
launching their own brands…Luxury is faced with numerous
simultaneous challenges and is transforming right before us. At
a time when consumers seek meaning behind what they consume,
without getting too hung up on contradictions, the sector is
experiencing a number of paradoxes that it must take into
consideration if it wishes to last in time and not get caught out by
the future”.
ABOUT LUXURY
As Rémi Pulvérail (L’Atelier Français des
Matières) reminds us, ambergris should
be used in vegan fragrances, because
it’s a fabulous, natural and rare
‘animalic’, sweet, marine, scent:
ambergris is an aged and oxidised
exudate from the whale. Due to its rarity
and cost, it is largely found in synthetic
form in perfumes. Vegan can be more
luxurious with natural ambergris. So,
dare!
This book is rich and well
documented with a lot of data,
figures, examples and testimonies
from experts who give their view,
explain, illustrate this sector
challenged by tech, social and
environmental (r)evolutions.
To order the book: dunod.com,
fnac.com, amazon.fr
The ‘vegan sparkle’ is strong… !
Today, it’s very chic to claim perfumes are going vegan. But,
bear in mind that most of the perfumes available on the
(mass/prestige) market are ‘naturally’ vegan. Why? Because
perfumers use less and less animalic raw materials
(extracting the scent from the animal) such as musk, civet,
beeswax, castoreum, ambergris… for reasons of pricing,
regulations, conviction or brand creative brief.
Vegan is a respectful movement and a true faith. Caution: a
vegan fragrance doesn’t mean synthetic ingredients free,
alcohol free and OMG free. Vegan doesn’t mean a good
quality of fragrance. It’s just about the non-exploitation of
animals and consuming nothing coming from animals.
Will this movement impact more creations and niche brands?
A new book: Le Luxe demain
Les nouvelles règles du jeu
Luxury and vegan fragrances

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Top notes newsletter #74 2020

  • 1. The Independent Fragrant NL by Nathalie Pichard toPNotes newsletter BRAND NEWS Bon Parfumeur Maison Caron Lolita Lempicka WOMEN PERFUMERS Joëlle Lerioux-Patris Mélanie Leroux Maïa Lernout Caroline Dumur LAUNCHES ABOUT LUXURY A new book Luxury & vegan fragrances Dear Readers, Happy New Year 2020! Welcome to this new toPNotes Newsletter, n #74 If the form of this letter has changed, its independent spirit and aim remain the same. Telling, inspiring, supporting the creativity of the brands and highlighting the talent of our perfume industry is still the purpose of this letter. Enjoy reading this new issue and thanks for your support. Nathalie Pichard + Barbara Preyssas (Australian/English eyes) Alexandra Lasry alexandralasry-macroartphotographe.com Courtesy photo (Temple Doors Hue in Vietnam) N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020]
  • 2. This amazing brand was imagined in Paris in 2016 by founder Ludovic Bonneton. A man passionate about perfumery. Contemporary yet authentic, “3 notes” names yet rare, Bon Parfumeur is all about noble ingredients, high quality and distinctive uniqueness thanks to its talented creative community of Artists, Artisans, Perfumers and Designers. Bon Parfumeur eaux de parfum are divided into 10 olfactory easy-to-understand families (cologne, fruity, aromatic…). They have been composed by 6 unconventional French perfumers (Philippe Romano, Alexandra Monet, Corinne Cachen, Karine Sereni, Nathalie Koobus, Benoît Lapouza, Sidonie Lancesseur, Serge de Oliveira, Jacques Chabert) with a double mission: give each one of us the freedom to pick and choose not just one but several perfumes to wear depending on one’s mood, personality, season, occasion, time of the day / night etc….and/or playfully mix & match 2 or 3 accords to become its very own Perfume Master. N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] Artistic Perfumery. The first collection is made up of 21 transparent bottles, available in 30 and 100 ml. Each fragrance has a special colour code label and 3 main ingredients written on the bottle. The second line, called ‘Les Privés’ aims to provoke olfactory shocks and is made up of rare ingredients. The bottle is smoky. Some collaborations with artists are signed, in limited editions. Bon Parfumeur opened its first Parisian Boutique Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in Le Marais. The distribution is hybrid. More than 1 000 points of sale: perfumeries, concept stores, department stores, e-shop… BRAND NEWS Bon Parfumeur is a Maison de Parfum,100% made in France, 100% clean - whose creative universe extends far beyond the traditional codes of world renowned / acclaimed / celebrated Classic French perfumery. For more info: www.bonparfumeur.com
  • 3. Ernest Daltroff and Félicie Wampouille, owners and creators of the Maison. They both created perfumes, powders and beauty products. Ernest as the Perfumer and Félicie, in charge of the brand image, packaging etc. A new story with Jean Jacques. New unexpected synergies are to come in a couple of months. N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] Created in 1904 by a duo of strong personalities, Ernest Daltroff and Félicie Wampouille (his muse) who was milliner, CARON knew a fabulous (hi)story of fragrant creativity by launching iconic fragrances such as Tabac Blond, Pour Un Homme de Caron, Fleurs de Rocaille, Bellodgia, Farnésiana, Pois de Senteur,… available in boutiques or selective points of sale. Maison CARON woke up last year when Ariane de Rothschild decided to acquire it and offer it a strong rebirth. This woman, passionate about heritage, patrimony and perfumes wants to make Caron alive and modern. She appointed Jean Jacques, as the new nose of the House. Ariane and her team are doing a complete revamping of the brand with the will of respecting the brand essence, making it grow while balancing between responsibility and disruptive creations. Jean Jacques works closely with Ariane de Rothschild to highlight Caron’s DNA (luxury and freedom), create new refined fragrances in Grasse, thanks to LMR natural ingredients (For Life certification) and IFF captives and raw materials. Jean Jacques created his first collection of 4 feminine fragrances to illustrate the duality so dear to Caron (duality in ingredient and in female-male personality). 4 New fragrances Rose Ivoire is a delicate powdery floral with Turkish rose, iris and white pepper. Rose Ebène is a dark rose with black pepper and coffee, in the sillage of Narcisse Noir. Tabac Noir is an homage to famous Tabac Blond with tobacco and patchouli from Bali, with leathery accents. Tubéreuse Merveilleuse is a fresh tuberose spiced by a zesty ginger, sustained by a gourmand vanilla. For more info: www.parfumscaron.com BRAND NEWS
  • 4. Mon Premier Parfum. The first apple fragrance, the forbidden fruit scent was signed by Annick Menardo in 1997. Recognizable, addictive with liquorice, violet, cherry, an edible fragrance that marked the 90’s. Mon Premier Parfum by Lolita Lempicka is one of those rare perfumes that the nose recognizes before the lips have time to pronounce the name. In 2017, for her 20 years in the world of fragrance, Lolita Lempicka wants to reinvent and reinvest herself. She offers a new look to her precious fragrance. The famous apple of Eden reveals new, more modern forms, and calls a little more to temptation. The brand is available in many countries, and in France you can find Lolita Lempicka in several retailers such as Sephora ou Nocibé. Good news for fans, the brand will be strengthened and more visible in retail thanks to Excellence Diffusion, specialized in French distribution, run by former Lempicka’s sales director, Yannick Decary (www.excellencediffusion.com) N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] Lolita Lempicka. The Garden of Even. Lolita Lempick is such an amazing name: a homage to the artist Tamara Lempicka and to Nabokov’s novel, Lolita (romantic young girl). Lolita Lempicka is a committed woman and a creative woman. She has created a world that everyone dreams of, by her creative expression. She imposed herself as the creator of a magical and enchanting world, which invites people to dream and get out of their daily life. “Fashion, this word make me dream. To realize my childhood dream by creating a fairy tale image in the modern universe for the woman of today. A refined imaginary universe captured in a romantic perfume." "I always dreamt the idea of love being fugitive, capturing the crazy happiness of the humour of life. A memory awakened by a trace of perfume as generous as the pleasure given.“ The Lolita Lempicka woman is feminine, romantic, mysterious and her perfumes, a poetry of color and form, of sensation and emotion. Soon, Lolita fragrances will be claimed vegan (without leather, musk, ambergris, beeswax etc.) and cruelty free. The entire portfolio will be reformulated in 2020 to respect Lolita Lempicka’s commitment and her love for animals (no animal testing as well). The fragrances are Mon Premier Parfum, Sweet, So Sweet, Mon Eau, Lolitaland, Oh Ma Biche, Lempicka Homme, Lempicka Green Lover (pic). For more info: www.lolitalempicka.com BRAND NEWS
  • 5. Saying Joëlle is a passionate perfumer is putting it mildly! She breathes perfumes. She is really a purist perfumer, sincere, searching for the right scent. For her clients. Her background resembles her strong personality. After years in Fragrance Houses, Mane (in Asia, for more than 10 years), Expressions Parfumées, Fragrance Resources France, she founded her own laboratory, Le Parfumeur Français, in 2019, located where she lives in the South of France. The way she likes to work with her clients is sharing, being close to them to better understand what they want and then…. illustrate it into scents. Mélanie LEROUX Mademoiselle Parfumette N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] PERFUMERS https://www.leparfumeurfrancais.com joelle@leparfumeurfrancais.com Joëlle LERIOUX-PATRIS Le Parfumeur Français Independent for 10 years, Mademoiselle Parfumette, aka Mélanie Leroux, is a true perfumer, mixing her sensitiveness, discretion and efficiency. She doesn’t have a high profile but creates fragrances with passion and rigor for her clients, dedicated to providing the best service. Mélanie formulates for skin care products, fine fragrances or ambience, and accompanies her clients with the same desire for tailor-made service. Confidence and trust are essential in her working creative process. Joëlle worked for prestigious international brands. She signed various fragrances such as Colonia Mirra & new Camelia Acqua Di Parma… Oud & Bergamot Rich Extract Jo Malone, Rose Ardente & Encens Divin L'Atelier de Givenchy, La Rose Gothique LeSnob, Les Parfums de Rosine, Eau Demoiselle Rose à la folie Givenchy … And works on new projects. Her savoir-faire is well organized. All perfumes she creates are produced in Grasse with Accords et Parfums (Independent Fragrance House founded by Olivier Maure). This exclusive partnership allows her to use also the best ingredients, safety and regulations, all tools needed to guarantee the quality of her creations. Mélanie works for various cosmetic and perfume brands such as Première Note, Miss Ferling, Marina de Bourbon, Franck Boclet, Mona di Orio, Ioma, Nuhanciam, Une Jolie Histoire (candle in picture)… When she’s asked about her favorite ingredients, Joëlle chooses patchouli as her main olfactory obsession and reasurance. Technically, patchouli brings sillage, diffusion and multi-faceted notes. For her, patchouli also gives confidence, reassurance and strength. A raw material of emotion. Joëlle is not only a friend who continues to surprise and teach me, she is a great perfumer. http://www.mademoiselleparfumette.com/ melanieleroux@mademoiselleparfumette.com Since a few years, to answer a growing demand, she has been developing olfactory signature scents for hotels or companies. Her network of glass makers, wax producers and packagers allows her to drive projects from A to Z.
  • 6. Attention: a new talent to discover! Passion for odours from her childhood, determination to be a perfumer. Caroline came to perfumery naturally, directed by her passion for fragrances and odours. After ISIPCA, internships at Charabot and Mane, she was welcomed at IFF by Master Perfumer Anne Flipo who accompanied her for 3 years. She was taught by LMR teams and went to Asia to master her traineeship. Caroline is really a perfumer who intrigued me when I smelled L’Odeur du Théâtre du Chatelet Acte I she composed for Comme des Garçons. I really found it in CDG’s DNA! And that’s the reason why Caroline is introduced in this newsletter. The fragrance looks like her: determined, sharp, inspired, mastered. Her interest in difficult/special raw materials such as incense, rose or aldehydes says a lot about her personality. She likes olfactory challenges such as overdoses of ingredients. PERFUMERS Caroline DUMUR Junior Perfumer IFF Caroline and Anne signed perfumes such as Lolita Lempicka Sweet, So Sweet; Paco Rabanne Pure Excess Night or Vetiver Moss by Alexander Mac Queen… and alone, Comme des Garçons, Clash: Chlorophyll Gardenia… Maïa loves all ambery fragrances since she discovered Must Cartier. Secret: the funny thing is that when she was young, she used to wear Mon Premier Parfum Lolita Lempicka and was offered a small wooden doe as a charm. A sign? Oh ma Biche…! Among her creations: Cool Water Wave Woman, Le Parfum Royal and Le Parfum Essentiel Elie Saab (photo), Green Lover, Oh Ma Biche Lolita Lempicka, Flora Luminare Molton Brown. Some collaborations with Francis Kurkdjian: La collection des Essences and Rose Couture Elie Saab; Classique Intense & Ultra Male Jean Paul Gaultier; Kenzo World fragrances; Nina Ricci L’Extase, L’Extase Caresse de Roses, Rose Absolue and Rose Extase; Lolita Lolitaland. N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] A name to recall! Maïa Lernout is a new French perfumer I wanted to highlight when I first discovered the perfume composition Green Lover Lolita Lempicka. I adored immediately. She works at Takasago and was taught by Master Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian with whom she created many fragrances.This sparkling Parisian woman is often inspired by nature in the South of France where she lived. Her favorite ingredients are Rose, Ciste Labdanum and Immortelle (she’d like to integrate it more!). Maïa was hired by Takasago for her expertise in natural materials. She studied in various Fragrance Houses such as Biolandes, Robertet, Kao. Maïa LERNOUT Perfumer TAKASAGO
  • 7. N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] LAUNCHES Spice must Flow & 500 years Etat Libre d’Orange Gris Charnel & Nuit de Sable BDK The Art of Perfume Collezione Privata & Pallazzo Nobile Storie Veneziane Valmont Love Osmanthus Atelier Cologne W/ood Rose Jean Michel Duriez Paris Couleur Vanille L’Artisan Parfumeur Beau de Jour Tom Ford L’Homme Rochas Rochas French Gallantry State of Mind A selection of new fragrances conceived as messengers of French gallantry, couture, art, seduction, addiction, luxury, lifestyle or just about ingredients. All olfactory families are illustrated. Collection Fleur d’Oranger Sylvaine Delacourte Paris Aqua Millefolia, Aqua Palmaris, Aqua Amantia Cologne Botanique Absolue Le Couvent
  • 8. Isabelle Musnik is CEO of INfluencia, a media pusblishing a daily newsletter and a magazine on trends and influence. Yves Hanania is CEO of Lighthouse, a strategy and branding consultancy. Philippe Gaillochet is an independent management consultant, co-founder of the Ipesup group, co-founder & director of the MBA Institute. N#74 TOPNOTES NEWSLETTER [JANUARY 2020] "The future of luxury will be multidimensional" says Yves Hanania. A new book about luxury is always welcome, as the subject has never been so ‘buzz word’ nowadays. Yves Hanania, Isabelle Musnik and Philippe Gaillochet, the three authors of this book wrote about the future of luxury and its next challenges. “A generation of Millennials on the rise, a digital revolution, professional influencers, the distribution revolution, new brand ecosystems, an ultra-luxury sector that’s exploding, celebrities launching their own brands…Luxury is faced with numerous simultaneous challenges and is transforming right before us. At a time when consumers seek meaning behind what they consume, without getting too hung up on contradictions, the sector is experiencing a number of paradoxes that it must take into consideration if it wishes to last in time and not get caught out by the future”. ABOUT LUXURY As Rémi Pulvérail (L’Atelier Français des Matières) reminds us, ambergris should be used in vegan fragrances, because it’s a fabulous, natural and rare ‘animalic’, sweet, marine, scent: ambergris is an aged and oxidised exudate from the whale. Due to its rarity and cost, it is largely found in synthetic form in perfumes. Vegan can be more luxurious with natural ambergris. So, dare! This book is rich and well documented with a lot of data, figures, examples and testimonies from experts who give their view, explain, illustrate this sector challenged by tech, social and environmental (r)evolutions. To order the book: dunod.com, fnac.com, amazon.fr The ‘vegan sparkle’ is strong… ! Today, it’s very chic to claim perfumes are going vegan. But, bear in mind that most of the perfumes available on the (mass/prestige) market are ‘naturally’ vegan. Why? Because perfumers use less and less animalic raw materials (extracting the scent from the animal) such as musk, civet, beeswax, castoreum, ambergris… for reasons of pricing, regulations, conviction or brand creative brief. Vegan is a respectful movement and a true faith. Caution: a vegan fragrance doesn’t mean synthetic ingredients free, alcohol free and OMG free. Vegan doesn’t mean a good quality of fragrance. It’s just about the non-exploitation of animals and consuming nothing coming from animals. Will this movement impact more creations and niche brands? A new book: Le Luxe demain Les nouvelles règles du jeu Luxury and vegan fragrances