Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather Beverley Thorpe September 30, 2009
Drivers for Cr-free leather <ul><li>Legislation:  European Union’s Directive on End of Life Vehicles  (2000) </li></ul><ul...
Why Chromium-free demand? <ul><li>CrVI is restricted and highly hazardous </li></ul><ul><li>  (carcinogen) </li></ul><ul><...
Directive on End of Life Vehicles  (2000) <ul><li>Recycling quotas and design objectives </li></ul><ul><li>Substances bans...
Auto shredder residue (ASR)  is hazardous <ul><li>Mixture of plastics, fluids, rubber, glass, dirt, and metallic fines whi...
The market responds Lincoln's MKR concept car features &quot;guilt-free&quot; luxury (in the words of the manufacturer) su...
The driver and passenger seats, thin in design with a focus on spinal support, are covered in  Pearl chromium-free leather...
In line with IUV's determination to care for the environment, it has also developed  chrome-free tanned automotive leather...
All Leather In All Volvo Car Interiors  Chrome-Free For Allergy-Sufferers In addition to benefiting those with chrome alle...
<ul><li>for full substance list visit:  /www.oeko-tex.com </li></ul>
Press Information 05/08/2009 Textiles Tested for Harmful Substances and Produced Sustainably - Products from ready-to-wear...
<ul><li>Chrome tanned leather cannot pass EN71 test which is also used for children’s (under 36 months old) footwear </li>...
Cr substitution research ongoing <ul><li>Iron, Titanium or Zirconium salts can be substituted for chromium  ( www.cprac.or...
 
What about other chemicals in process and product? <ul><li>All chemicals in process should be screened for inherent hazard...
  www.blcleathertech.com <ul><li>Inputs for improved eco-profile </li></ul><ul><li>Key elements in eco leather </li></ul>
Tannery Environmental Auditing Protocol for Gold/Silver/Bronze scoring –  British Leather Technology Centre.  Oct 2008.  w...
 
<ul><li>Competitive advantage </li></ul><ul><li>25 audits have been undertaken since 2008  in  the following countries: </...
Thank you for listening <ul><li>Beverley Thorpe </li></ul><ul><li>International Director </li></ul><ul><li>Clean Productio...
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Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather

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Clean Production Action

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Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather

  1. 1. Market Trends for Chrome-free and eco- leather Beverley Thorpe September 30, 2009
  2. 2. Drivers for Cr-free leather <ul><li>Legislation: European Union’s Directive on End of Life Vehicles (2000) </li></ul><ul><li>Consumer demand </li></ul><ul><li>Eco-labels and standards </li></ul><ul><li>green chemistry R&D </li></ul><ul><li>Auditing protocols </li></ul>
  3. 3. Why Chromium-free demand? <ul><li>CrVI is restricted and highly hazardous </li></ul><ul><li> (carcinogen) </li></ul><ul><li>CrIII used in tanning process could oxidise to CrVI through excessive neutralisation prior to dyeing or application of bleaching (oxidising agents) to create pale leathers. </li></ul><ul><li>Chromium is persistent: it cannot be destroyed and will always be present in some form within the environment. Incineration, composting and gasification will not eliminate chromium; prevents eco-recycling of materials </li></ul>
  4. 4. Directive on End of Life Vehicles (2000) <ul><li>Recycling quotas and design objectives </li></ul><ul><li>Substances bans </li></ul><ul><li>Mandates hazardous material phase outs in new cars put on European market as of July 2003: </li></ul><ul><li>Pb </li></ul><ul><li>Hg </li></ul><ul><li>Cd </li></ul><ul><li>Cr VI </li></ul>… to improve design and production of new vehicles to facilitate their dismantling, reuse, recycling, and recovery
  5. 5. Auto shredder residue (ASR) is hazardous <ul><li>Mixture of plastics, fluids, rubber, glass, dirt, and metallic fines which makes it hazardous waste in many countries </li></ul><ul><li>ASR is approx 25% of the car, almost all disposed to landfill </li></ul>Clean Production Action - CAW/EPR
  6. 6. The market responds Lincoln's MKR concept car features &quot;guilt-free&quot; luxury (in the words of the manufacturer) such as chrome-free leather, an oak instrument panel made from recycled wood, mohair carpet, and soy-based seat foam. Another significant low-emission accomplishment is the development of luxury chrome-free leather - designed to comply with the European Union end-of-life directive .
  7. 7. The driver and passenger seats, thin in design with a focus on spinal support, are covered in Pearl chromium-free leather and trimmed with Leaf Green stitching, giving the interior a sporty and luxurious look. Chrysler 200C EV Concept - February 25, 2009
  8. 8. In line with IUV's determination to care for the environment, it has also developed chrome-free tanned automotive leather , in the production of which the use of heavy metal salts has been eliminated. It is friendly to the users and can be disposed of in an environmentally safe manner . IUV is also the first company to have entered and established itself in the car industry with high-quality pigskin leather…, Among IUV customers are some of the largest car producers, including AUDI. AUTOMOTIVE PIGSKIN LEATHER FROM IUV
  9. 9. All Leather In All Volvo Car Interiors Chrome-Free For Allergy-Sufferers In addition to benefiting those with chrome allergy, it also reduces environmental impact from the tanning process. All leather in Volvo car interiors also fulfills the requirements of Oeko Tex Standard 100. GOTHENBURG, Sweden – January 21, 2009: To alleviate for those who have chrome allergy, all leather used in Volvo car interiors has been treated in a chromium-free tanning process, using either natural or synthetic tanning materials.
  10. 10. <ul><li>for full substance list visit: /www.oeko-tex.com </li></ul>
  11. 11. Press Information 05/08/2009 Textiles Tested for Harmful Substances and Produced Sustainably - Products from ready-to-wear clothing manufacturers in Asia to be first producers in Asia to be marked with Oeko-Tex® Standard 100plus
  12. 12. <ul><li>Chrome tanned leather cannot pass EN71 test which is also used for children’s (under 36 months old) footwear </li></ul>
  13. 13. Cr substitution research ongoing <ul><li>Iron, Titanium or Zirconium salts can be substituted for chromium ( www.cprac.org published 2000) </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Observation: leather texture more stiff </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Vegetable tannins can be used but slow down the tanning process </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Observation: ultrasonication and supercritical fluid extraction may reduce impregnation time for alternative tanning agents Introduction to Green Chemistry, Albert Matlock. 2002 </li></ul></ul><ul><li>Aldehyde tanning (wet white) widely used for automotive industry (no disposal problems of shavings and trimmings; less chemicals used; quality of the leather is improved…) </li></ul>
  14. 15. What about other chemicals in process and product? <ul><li>All chemicals in process should be screened for inherent hazards </li></ul><ul><li>Substitution should be priority for any carcinogen, mutagen, reproductive toxic, persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic chemicals </li></ul><ul><li>Pentachlorophenol? Tetrachloroethylene? Formaldehyde? Azo dyes? Nonyl phenol ethoxylates? Fungicides? Toluene? Xylene? </li></ul>
  15. 16. www.blcleathertech.com <ul><li>Inputs for improved eco-profile </li></ul><ul><li>Key elements in eco leather </li></ul>
  16. 17. Tannery Environmental Auditing Protocol for Gold/Silver/Bronze scoring – British Leather Technology Centre. Oct 2008. www.blcleathertech.com <ul><li>Tanners/suppliers involved </li></ul><ul><li>Asiatan </li></ul><ul><li>Industrija Usnja Vrhnika d d </li></ul><ul><li>ISA - Tan Tec Guangzhou, China </li></ul><ul><li>LeFarc SA de CV </li></ul><ul><li>Pieles Temola S.A. de C.V. </li></ul><ul><li>Perrin-Rostaing Tannery </li></ul><ul><li>PrimeAsia Leather Corporation </li></ul><ul><li>Sadesa SA </li></ul><ul><li>Shanghai Richina Leather Co. Ltd. </li></ul><ul><li>Simona Tanning Inc </li></ul><ul><li>Wolverine Leathers </li></ul><ul><li>Suppliers: </li></ul><ul><li>BASF AG </li></ul><ul><li>Crest Leathers </li></ul><ul><li>E-Leather Ltd </li></ul><ul><li>Lanxess </li></ul><ul><li>Companies involved </li></ul><ul><li>Adidas-group </li></ul><ul><li>Chaco Inc </li></ul><ul><li>Clarks International </li></ul><ul><li>Ikea of Sweden </li></ul><ul><li>Levi Strauss & Co. </li></ul><ul><li>Marks & Spencer plc </li></ul><ul><li>New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc. </li></ul><ul><li>NEXT Retail Ltd </li></ul><ul><li>Nike, Inc </li></ul><ul><li>Pentland Group plc </li></ul><ul><li>The North Face </li></ul><ul><li>The Timberland Company </li></ul><ul><li>Wolverine World Wide Inc </li></ul>
  17. 19. <ul><li>Competitive advantage </li></ul><ul><li>25 audits have been undertaken since 2008 in the following countries: </li></ul><ul><li>Brazil </li></ul><ul><li>Dominican Republic </li></ul><ul><li>China </li></ul><ul><li>India </li></ul><ul><li>Mexico </li></ul><ul><li>Netherlands </li></ul><ul><li>Taiwan </li></ul><ul><li>Thailand </li></ul><ul><li>UK </li></ul><ul><li>USA </li></ul><ul><li>Vietnam </li></ul><ul><li>Cradle to cradle focus </li></ul><ul><li>More focus now on full supply chain accountability and cradle to cradle scope ie. source of leather > processing > product > end of life </li></ul><ul><li>Leather Working Group now assessing standards for sourcing of animals. Animal hides from deforested rainforests now an industry concern </li></ul>
  18. 20. Thank you for listening <ul><li>Beverley Thorpe </li></ul><ul><li>International Director </li></ul><ul><li>Clean Production Action </li></ul><ul><li>[email_address] </li></ul><ul><li>+1 514 933 4596 </li></ul><ul><li>www.cleanproduction.org </li></ul>

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