342 C O S TA B R AVA lonelyplanet.com Bookeaccommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lon lyplanet.com C O S TA B R AVA • • T o s s a d e M a r 343 COSTA BRAVA 0 0 20 km 12 miles Getting There & Away %972 34 12 97; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun Direct buses from Barcelona go to most towns May-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr). Inside there is an Perpignan on or near the Costa Brava. The railway between imaginative 20-minute walk-through display Barcelona and the coastal border town of Port- on the history of lighthouses and life inside bou runs inland, through Girona and Figueres, them. Next door is a great bar (see p345). most of the way. From Girona and Figueres In the lower part of Vila Vella, the Museu there are fairly good bus services to the coast. Municipal (%972 34 07 09; Plaça de Roig i Soler 1; adult/stu- FRANCE In summer, you could take an alternative dent & senior €3/1.80; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun-Mon approach to the southern Costa Brava from Jun–mid-Oct, to 2pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun mid-Sep–mid- Puig Neul s (1256m) Barcelona by a combination of rodalies (local Jun), set in the 14th- and 15th-century Palau trains) and boat. del Batlle, has mosaics and other finds from a Le Perthus Paratge Natural d’InterŁs Nacional Cerbère The AP7 autopista (tollway) and the toll- Roman villa, off Avinguda del Pelegrí, and Tossa- Vallter 2000 Cap de CerbŁre Prats de La Jonquera de l’Albera Cantallops Portbou free NII Hwy both run from Barcelona via related art including Chagall’s El Violinista. Molló Coll d’Area Maçanet de Cabrenys AP7 Sant Climent Colera Girona and Figueres to the French border, A tangle of 18th-century lanes, Vila Nova (1513m) Vilamaniscle Monestir de Sant Setcases Coustouges Darnius Sescebes Llançà Pere de Rodes a few kilometres north of La Jonquera. The (New Town) stretches away from the old nu- Tregurà Pant de de Dalt Molló Boadella Garriguella El Port de la Selva Cap de C32 autopista follows the NII up the coast as cleus. Further north, northwest and northeast Vilallonga de Ter Beget Boadella Peralada Parc Vilajuïga Sant Pere Natural Creus far as Blanes. spreads the sprawl of the really new town. Camprodon Pont de Molins de Rodes Port Lligat del Cap Vilabertran Cadaqués Sant Joan de iu T e r Figueres Castelló dEmpúries de Creus Roses TOSSA DE MAR Beaches & Coves les Abadesses R C26 Castellfollit de la Roca Parc Natural pop 5260 The main town beach, Platja Gran, tends to be dels Aiguamolls Besalú N260 NII de l’Empord Curving around a boat-speckled bay and busy. Further north along the same bay are the Ripoll Sant Pere Golf de Roses guarded by a headland crowned with defensive quieter and smaller Platja del Reig and Platja Mar Olot Riu Pescador Parc Natural de la Zona Fl uv i medieval walls and towers, Tossa de Mar is a Menuda at the end of Avinguda de Sant Ramon Santa Pau Volc nica de la Garrotxa Sant Martí dEmpúries Empúries village of crooked, narrow streets onto which Penyafort. The coast to the northeast and south- Banyoles C31 LEscala tourism has tacked a larger, modern extension. west of Tossa is dotted by rocky coves, some Sant Feliu de Pallerols GI634 GI632 In July and August it’s hard to reach the water’s with small beaches. You can walk cross-country G I R O N A C66 Verges Torroella de Montgrí LEstartit edge without tripping over oily limbs, but it is from Tossa to Cala Llevado and Cala d’En Carles Rupit Castell Parlavà Illes Medes heaven compared with Lloret de Mar 12km beaches, 3km southwest, or the longer Platja de C63 de Púbol Manlleu Tavertet La Pera Illa Roja southeast – a real concrete and neon jungle of Llorell (3.5km away), or drive down to Platja de Ullastret Palau-sator C17 iu Te r Girona Peratallada Sa Punta Sa Riera Piccadilly pubs, Bierkeller and soccer chants. Llorell from the GI682. To the northeast, you R Pant Aiguafreda de Sau Pant de Anglès Susqueda La Bisbal C66 Pals Begur Sa Tuna Tossa was one of the first places on the can walk down from the GI682 to sandy coves dEmpordà Torrent Fornells Aiguablava Costa Brava to attract foreign visitors – a such as Cala Pola (4km), Cala Giverola (5km), Cala Vic Palafrugell Tamariu Sant Hilari GI660 Llafranc Cap de Sant Sebasti small colony of artists and writers gravitated Salions (8km) and Platja Vallpregona (11km). C25 Sacalm La Fosca Calella de Palafrugell Cala Estreta towards what painter Marc Chagall dubbed In summer (Easter to September), glass- Viladrau Santa Coloma de Farners C65 Calonge Platja del Castell ‘Blue Paradise’ in the 1930s. bottomed boats (%972 34 22 29; return adult/3-12yr/under Palamós C31 3yr €10/6/free) run about hourly to some of these El Brull Arbúcies C35 Platja dAro Orientation & Information northeastern beaches from Platja Gran, calling Parc Natural del Montseny Maçanet de la Selva Vidreres Sant Pol The bus station is beside the GI682, where in at a few sea caves along the way. You have the Sant Feliu de Guíxols va Montseny Breda GI680 it leaves for Lloret de Mar. The main beach, option of spending the day at Cala Giverola (a ra NII C63 Platja Gran, and the older part of town are a pleasant sandy cove with a couple of restaurants B Tossa de Mar a GI682 st Sant Celoni Parc del Santa Maria del Llorell Co 10-minute walk southeast. and bars) and returning on a later boat. Lloret de Mar B A R C E L O N A Montegre i del Corredor Palafolls Blanes The tourist information office (%972 34 01 08; Mon Cardedeu Vallgorguina t ne g r e www.infotossa.com; Avinguda del Pelegrí 25; h9am-9pm Sleeping Santa Susana AP7 Arenys de Munt C32 Pineda de Mar Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-2pm & 4-8pm Tossa has around 70 hotels, hostales (budget Calella Granollers Sant Pol de Mar Mon-Sat Apr-May & Oct, 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar) hostels) and pensiones (small private hotels). Canet de Mar C60 Arenys de Mar m e is next to the bus station. You’ll find all of them open from Semana Montmeló Caldes dEstrac es r Santa (Easter) to October, but only a handful Ma To Barcelona (8km) Mataró Co s ta d el MEDITERRANEAN Old Tossa outside those months. The walls and towers on the pine-dotted head-C ATA L O N I A C ATA L O N I A Premià de Mar SEA El Masnou land, Mont Guardí, at the end of the main CAMPING Badalona beach, were built between the 12th and 14th Five camping grounds are spread out around Sant Adrià de Besòs centuries. The area they girdle is known as the town. The nearest is Camping Can Martí the Vila Vella (Old Town). When wandering (%972 34 08 51; www.canmarti.org; Rambla Pau Casals; To Barcelona (4km) Summer Boat Route around Mont Guardí you will come across sites per 2-person tent & car €28; hlate May–mid-Sep; p), vestiges of a castle, and the Far de Tossa (lighthouse; 1km back from the beach and well equipped.