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36 hours in cleveland
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Travel |36 Hours
36 Hours in
Cleveland
By ELAINE GLUSAC JUNE 30, 2016
Whatever the fallout from the forthcoming Republican National
Convention, Cleveland, with its booming food scene and
revitalized downtown, is camera ready. Related Article
Photo
The skyline behind the Cuyahoga River. Credit Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
Cleveland hasn’t been this hot since the 1969 oil fire on the Cuyahoga
River, at least in figurative terms. That long-ago industrial accident was the
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nadir of the city’s reputation. Now “The Land,” as the prodigal son LeBron
James calls it, is back with a cherished N.B.A. championship, a revitalized
downtown, booming food and beer scenes, industrial-turned-arty
neighborhoods and expanding hotels. The latter has much to do with the
forthcoming Republican National Convention, July 18 to 21, with the
Republican presumptive presidential nominee Donald Trump and a likely
media circus. Whatever the political fallout, Cleveland, a city with a strong
base of cultural attractions that date back to the 19th-century founding of
Standard Oil here, is camera ready.
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ROCK THE VOTE, 2 P.M.
It’s not just Lady Gaga’s meat dress, John Lennon’s Mellotron synthesizer
or Michael Jackson’s sparkly glove that draws devotees to the Rock and
Roll Hall of Fame and Museum (admission, $23.50). In a meandering
building by the architect I.M. Pei, the comprehensive music museum traces
the evolution of rock to its early roots in gospel and blues, and allows
visitors to discover the influences of popular artists in interactive kiosks
(who knew the Beach Boys influenced the Ramones?). A timely exhibition
“Louder Than Words: Rock, Power and Politics” explores the confluence of
music and politics, from campaign stump songs like “Don’t Stop” by
Fleetwood Mac for Bill Clinton to antiwar protest songs by artists from
Marvin Gaye to Green Day (through Nov. 27).
PAINTING, POLKAS, PINBALL, 4 P.M.
Head to the emerging Detroit Shoreway neighborhood where the former
Baker Electric Motor Vehicle Company factory warehouse has been
converted into the 170,000-square-foot 78th Street Studios , a warren of
artist studios and galleries. Four to eight open every Friday afternoon, but
on the third Friday of every month, over 50 stay open until 9 p.m. for a
convivial gallery hop. When you’ve consumed enough culture, walk a few
36 Hours in Cleveland
Explore street view, find things to do in Cleveland and sign in to your Google account to save your map.
Friday
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blocks to the Happy Dog bar, a classic neighborhood dive with a hipster
following and, also on the third Friday of the month, Polka Happy Hour (6
to 9 p.m.), featuring D.J.Kishka, who sports a fake beard and spins polka
records. Happy Dog is a good spot for one of the roughly 20 beers on tap
(from $2), a hot dog with a few of the 50 toppings on the menu including
Froot Loops and chorizo chili ($6), and a round or two on its old-fashioned
pinball machines.
Mabel’s BBQ is chef Michael Symon’s latest restaurant. Credit Tony
Cenicola/The New York Times
PIT MASTER, 8 P.M.
The chef Michael Symon is synonymous with Cleveland’s culinary prowess
via his popular Lola restaurant, as well as his hosting appearances on the
television show “The Chew.” His newest restaurant, Mabel’s BBQ , makes
the case for Cleveland-accented barbecue, using Eastern European spices
on the meats and local Bertman Ball Park Mustard in the sauce. Exposed
brick walls, warehouse-height ceilings and long communal tables
underscore the industrial vibe. Bring friends to indulge in the sizable dishes
from piles of crispy pig ears ($7) to a half-pound of fatty brisket ($13) and a
mess of kielbasa and spare ribs piled with sauerkraut called This Is
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Cleveland ($19). Expect to wait for a seat with a drink at the bar, which
specializes in bourbon and beer.
SKY HIGH, 10 P.M.
On the 32nd floor of the new Hilton Cleveland Downtown, Bar 32 ,just
opened, will provide a skyline perch — the highest in the city, according to
the hotel — for sipping liquid nitrogen-based drinks that instantly freeze,
creating adult slushies such as the In Fashioned ($14) as well as its more
standard counterpart, the Old Fashioned ($11). The sleek, wood-paneled
lounge is wrapped with glass walls and includes a small patio from which to
view Lake Erie by day and the lights of the surrounding city by night.
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Photo
Playhouse Square, which has nine theaters in a one-block radius. Credit Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
COFFEE AND CULTURE, 9 A.M.
Many grocery stores have coffee bars and cafes, but few occupy a place in
Clevelanders’ hearts like the new Heinen’s Grocery Store downtown. Last
year, the local chain that specializes in prepared foods moved into the 1908
Cleveland Trust Company Building, featuring an 85-foot-high leaded-glass
ceiling bordered by 13 murals depicting the history of the region by the
painter Francis Davis Millet who died on the Titanic. Grab a cappuccino
($2.75) and a blueberry muffin ($1.99) from the Equal Exchange Espresso
Bar and crane your neck upward from the central tables for a look at those
murals. Come back after noon to get a bit closer at the wine and craft beer
Balcony Bar on the second floor.
GATEWAY GAPING, 10 A.M.
Until Sept. 18, the Gateway District, a community development association
that has been active in Cleveland’s downtown renaissance, is offering free
heritage tours called Take a Hike . The 90-minute Saturday outing focuses
on the history and architecture of downtown’s Euclid Avenue, a once-
Saturday
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bustling 19th-century shopping district, now the focus of residential and
commercial projects adapting the grand old buildings. Costumed
characters, including an actor playing the city’s early 20th-century
reformist mayor Tom Johnson, provide history, but the design focus en
route is on the handsome collection of vintage buildings being preserved.
The five-floor Arcade, with scrolling iron balconies, is largely occupied by a
hotel. Credit Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
ARCADE BUYER, 11:30 A.M.
Take a Hike tours meet at the Arcade , one of three elegant glass-topped,
blocklong malls in the area modeled on European shopping arcades
including Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. The five-floor Arcade,
with scrolling iron balconies, is largely occupied by a hotel; the two across
the street, the former Colonial (1898) and Euclid (1911) Arcades, now
operating as the 5th Street Arcades , warrant doubling back to browse the
new tenants that are trying to revive retail downtown. There are souvenir
shops, including We Bleed Ohio; others offer unique wares including Fra
Angelica Studio for local art and fashion, L’Amour Du Noir for edgy men’s
casual wear, and Happy Hour Collection, selling vintage and new bar ware.
EATING OHIO CITY, 1 P.M.
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Just west of downtown, Ohio City, which was annexed by Clevelandin 1854,
still attests to the heritage of its original European immigrant population,
particularly in the historic West Side Market , a1912 landmark bustling
with produce, dairy and meat vendors. Grab a made-to-order spinach, egg
and Gruyère ($7) crepe from Crepes de Luxe and take a perch on the
second-story mezzanine for a view over the market and its vaulted brick
ceiling. As an artisan culinary district, Ohio City offers a rich progressive
feast, including a generous scoop of chocolate peanut butter cup ($3.50) for
dessert at Mitchell’s Ice Cream , where you can watch the Wonka-like
creamery works behind glass. Wash it down with an Eliot Ness amber lager
($6) from the city’s most decorated microbrewery, Great Lakes Brewing ,
at its handsome mahogany bar.
ART HISTORY 101, 3 P.M.
Holding the treasures amassed by early industrialists, the Cleveland
Museum of Art (free) in University Circle has a collection of nearly 45,000
pieces, including a 19th-century royal Persian tent, a recently restored
Caravaggio, and Impressionist masterworks led by one of Claude Monet’s
oversized water lily canvases. Now celebrating its centennial, the museum
added a compelling architectural draw in 2013 when it was expanded by
the architect Rafael Viñoly, creating a 39,000-square-foot glass-roofed
atrium bounded by the original neo-Classical building and new wings. The
museum’s Provenance Café offers courtyard seating from which to admire
the grandeur over flatbread ($7.75) and wine (half bottles $12).
THE CLEVELAND SOUND, 7:30 P.M.
Downtown’s Playhouse Square calls itself the country’s largest performing
arts center outside of New York, with nine theaters in a one-block radius,
many staging touring productions. But for homegrown talent, book a date
with the renowned Cleveland Orchestra . When it’s not touring the world,
the orchestra, under the direction of Franz Welser-Möst, who is closely
associated with the Vienna Philharmonic, performs most of the year in
University Circle’s Severance Hall, an opulent, 1931-vintage concert hall as
elegant as the music performed there. In the summer, catch them with the
picnic crowd at Blossom Music Center, about 25 miles south of the city.
Photo
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A selection of biscuits, pickles and bacon at Spice Kitchen + Bar. Credit Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
PRESIDENTIAL HOMAGE, 9 A.M.
Join the dog walkers and joggers amid the peace and greenery of
Cleveland’s rolling, 285-acre Lake View Cemetery bordering University
Circle. Established in 1869 and modeled on the garden cemeteries of
Europe, the grounds contain the graves of many of the city’s early movers
and shakers, including the Standard Oil founder John D. Rockefeller. Pay
political tribute at the imposing, 180-foot-high Garfield Monument
containing the caskets of President James A. Garfield, a Cuyahoga County
native who was assassinated in 1881 after only 200 days in office, and his
wife, Lucretia.
The Garfield Monument containing the caskets of President James A. Garfield,
a Cuyahoga County native who was assassinated in 1881, and his wife, Lucretia.
Credit Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
LOCAVORE BRUNCH, 11 A.M.
Sunday
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Flight and Hotel information provided by Google.
Prices represent a snapshot of low fares and rates for weekend trips.
36 Hours
About 80 percent of the ingredients that go into the dishes at Spice
Kitchen + Bar in Gordon Square come from the restaurant’s 13-acre farm,
Spice Acres, in Cuyahoga Valley National Park, about 20 miles south of
town where the chef and owner Ben Bebenroth lives, or other family farms.
Brunch fare in the rustic storefront ranges from apple cinnamon beignets
($7) to Korean fried chicken and waffles ($12) and hearty eggs, bacon and
biscuit ($12). Even the eye-opening Spice-Y Mary ($9) features house-
made Bloody Mary mix and homemade hot sauce.
ADVERTISEMENT
Newly open in a 1902-vintage downtown building, the Kimpton Schofield
Hotel loans cruiser bikes to guests and holds a free wine hour nightly.
Rooms from $180; kimptonhotels.com.
Attached via underground passage to the convention center, the new Hilton
Cleveland Downtown showcases the city in locally sourced art and a
panoramic top-floor bar. Rooms from $149; hilton.com.
Lodging
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
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