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Back to black: A dial trend that's here to stay / Trend Report n°20

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In the aftermath of SIHH 2017 a trend can be witnessed emerging from the watches that were released during the week. From Montblanc Timewalker to the Panerai LAB-ID, black dials on watches are as present as they ever have been in Fine Watchmaking.

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Back to black: A dial trend that's here to stay / Trend Report n°20

  1. 1. BACK TO BLACK: A DIAL TREND THAT’S HERE TO STAY 25th January - 7th February 2017
  2. 2. TABLE OF CONTENTS: INTRODUCTION.........................................03 SNAPSHOT OF THE PERIOD TrendingTopics...........................................05 Volume of Conversations......................07 ANALYZING THE SOCIAL BUZZ Among Influencers...................................10 Beyond Influencers....................................12 THE BACKGROUND...................................13 BEHIND THE TREND.................................16 READ THE TREND.....................................21 THE METHOD...............................................22 THE FOUNDATION’S MISSION...........23
  3. 3. INTRODUCTION This series of trend reports are a collaboration between London-based agency RE-UP and the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. They will look back over the past two weeks and discover what’s been ‘trending’ online. We aim to discover which watches, stories and industrial developments in the world of horology gain the most amount of coverage on the digital sphere - uncovering why these trends are important.
  4. 4. SNAPSHOT OF THE PERIOD
  5. 5. TRENDING TOPICS AND STORIES FROM 25TH JANUARY TO 7TH FEBRUARY Percentage of conversation about Fine Watchmaking* brands penetrated by the topic on a sample of 1,000 articles *Fine Watchmaking defined by the parameters set by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie in their White Paper report The aftermath of SIHH and the event was still trending With several black dial watches being unveiled at SIHH a new trend started emerging At SIHH Richard Mille unveiled the RM 50- 03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1, the lightest mechanical chronograph ever At SIHH Cartier re-introduced the Panthère collection, revamping the 80’s classic Glashütte released the Original Sixties Square, a set of five colourful limited edition chronographs 13.3% 8.65% 6.65% 3.27% 1.89%
  6. 6. #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
  7. 7. VOLUME OF CONVERSATIONS ON HIGH-END WATCHES
  8. 8. ANALYSING THE SOCIAL BUZZ OF THE BLACK DIALS
  9. 9. @carmatmx
  10. 10. Among Influencers 12.42% Penetration of conversations by the expression ‘black dial’ in Swiss watch related conversations 0.92% Penetration of all conversations by the expression ‘black dial’ 11.11% Decrease of ‘black dial’ mentions against the previous two weeks
  11. 11. @ iwcwatches
  12. 12. Beyond Influencers 8,810 All online mentions of ‘black dial’ 6.53% Increase of ‘black dial’ mentions against the previous two weeks 88.27% Of mentions of ‘black dial’ in relation to Swiss Watches
  13. 13. THE BACKGROUND Black dials are a welcome edition to any collection, but SIHH saw black dialed watches take centre stage. In a SIHH which saw the extension of entry-level ranges and useful complications taking precedence, it was almost predictable that the utilitarian black dial would become more prominent, due to its use with contrasting coloured cases for higher legibility.
  14. 14. @baumeetmercier
  15. 15. From the Montblanc Timewalker to the Panerai PAM 684 Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic, almost every brand exhibiting at SIHH 2017 had a black dialed watch within their collections. Black dialed watches have always, and will always be a part of Fine Watchmaking. However, in a landscape where sales are dropping it’s important to see these brands reaching out to new consumers and listening to what the people want: classic forms and subdued materials for a longer lasting, hard-wearing timepiece.
  16. 16. BEHIND THE TREND
  17. 17. A prominent fashion trend in AW16, black took back hold of the catwalks with embroidery and different materials added to spice up standard pieces. Brands such as Dior which even included black lipstick at their show, Alexander McQueen’s embellished coats with fuchsia embroidery and Givenchy’s all black show with a smattering of red to bring vibrancy, all took hold of the trending black. The trend has followed into Fine Watchmaking with black dials watches being given a facelift like no other during SIHH. A prime example of this is the Richard Mille RM 50- 03 Tourbillon Split Secs Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1. Despite being a skeleton watch, almost all its elements are black, however being hailed as the lightest mechanical watch ever at just 40g and with dash of red, this can be seen following the fashion trend by taking a black dialed watch and adding more features to accentuate the colour.
  18. 18. @panerai
  19. 19. The use of a utilitarian black dial opens into a wider trend of Fine Watchmaking last year and this year, one which sees brands trying to open the doors to a newer, younger audience. These luxury ‘world explorers’ need their functionality to be key and their timepieces to be hardwearing, hence the concurrent trend at SIHH this year of practical complications.
  20. 20. @montblanc
  21. 21. Panerai’s quiet revolution Panerai showcased several new innovations during SIHH 2017 hidden within black dialed watches READ THE TREND Baume & Mercier – Join the Club Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Club collection showcased a black dialed version during SIHH 2017
  22. 22. THE METHOD We use two key social listening tools to gather the raw data we have analysed for this report. The first, an in-house bespoke database of 2000+ influencers and online sources within luxury and watches - with the ability to gather insight into six month’s worth of online buzz. The second, a social (and media) listening tool that looks at multiple keywords. This allows us to measure and examine all online conversations over a set period.
  23. 23. THE FOUNDATION’S MISSION
  24. 24. The mechanical watch is a wonderful instrument and the guardian of craftsmanship, creativity and of course, time. Our objective here at the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, is to take our wealth of expertise into the world through our four missions: to inform, train, recognise and organise. Since 2005, we have promoted values of excellence and tradition within an organisation that has the support of many Fine Watchmaking brands.
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