Fashion, apparel, textile, merchandising, garments

1. GOING AGAINST THE GRAIN : THE DEMATURITY OF THE EUROPEAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY 1 Fianti Noor , 2 Prof. Paul Smith, 1,2 Natalie Stingelin-Stutzmann & 1 Stuart Peters 1 School of Engineering & Materials Science Queen Mary-University of London (UK) 2 Department of Materials, Eidgenössische Technische Hochschule Zürich (Switzerland)

2. BACKGROUND

4. Productivity 1980-1994: EU-12 (1980-85: reconstructed data for Greece, Spain and Portugal), 1995-2003: EU-15 (Source: Euratex, 2004)

5. Employment

6. Employment Textiles Clothing

8. Technology Platform

9. Industrial Reconfiguration

12. THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK

15. Evolution of Technology Transilience High High Low Low Impact on production system Impact on market linkages De-maturity De-maturity Maturity Architectural phase Niche creation phase Revolutionary phase Regular phase Abernathy et al (1983)

19. METHODOLOGY

22. TECHNICAL EVOLUTION

23. Process technology Weaving and spinning technology-OECD (2004) year OE-rotor spinning Auto ring frame Ring frame E.I Ring frame Jet Projectile Automatic loom Fly shuttle Self actor Mule Spinning jenny Hargreaves 1750 1800 1850 1900 1950 2000 0,01 0,1 1 10 100 1000 0,01 0,1 1 10 100 1000 Hand loom Mech loom Multiloom weaving Northrop pirn changer Development towards maturity Automatic, standardized machinery Require less skilled labour Weaving Spinning Spinn.wheel Working hours per 100m cloth Working hours per kg yarn

24. Process technology Trend in 1950-80 1925 1950 1975 2000 2025 0,001 0,01 0,1 1 0,001 0,01 0,1 1 Ring frame Auto ring frame OE-rotor spinning Trend in 1900-80 Trend last 2 observation Trend in 1900-80 Automatic loom Projectile Jet Working hours per kg yarn Weaving and spinning technology-future trend (OECD, 2004) Weaving Spinning Predicted innovative pattern Working hours per 100 m cloth

25. Product Technology 1940’s 1960’s 1980’s 2000’s Consumer Textiles Technical Textiles Functional Textiles Multifunctional Textiles Smart/Intelligent Textiles Fibre technology Processing technology Finishing technology Production technology Advanced materials and hybrid technology Smart production

27. CASE STUDY 1: ITALY and MARZOTTO, S.p.A

28. Turnover 2004 Employment 2004 Statistics

29. Statistics Sistema Moda Italia Textile & Clothing Sector

30. Statistics % of turnover 2006

31. Statistics: Technical Textiles

37. Performance

39. Patent

40. CASE STUDY 2: THE NETHERLANDS / TEN CATE, NV

41. Statistics Turnover 2004 Employment 2004

42. Statistics

44. Evolution towards maturity

47. Performance

49. Technology & market transition

51. Patent

52. DISCUSSION

55. Marzotto-competence statics Yarns and textile production and technology Cloth making production Luxury brands High quality yarns and textile production and technology 1985 2005: Demerger 1836 1980 2005 Will continue to remain in the same markets, Expansion to emerging Economies i.e. China, Russia, India Maturity trap 1993: Relocation and rationalisation

56. De-maturity Emerging processing technology Customers Suppliers Ten Cate Distributors Competitors Innovative culture Industrial trend Government policy Historical Legacy TEXTILE-CLOTHING INDUSTRY Geotextiles Technical components Protective clothing Artificial grass Armour Emerging markets New materials Synthetic fibres High performance fiibres Composites Advanced, nano materials Advanced chemicals Non woven Functional digital printing New Distributors New Competitors Entrepreneurial, dynamic capabilities Creating new industrial boundaries

57. Ten Cate-competence dynamics Textile production and technology Technical textile technology and chemical processes Polymers Composite materials 1974 1841 1964 1987 Functional materials 2004 Dematurity Developments on core concept, engaging emerging technologies, potentially disrupt existing production system and market-technology linkages

58. Evolution of Technology Transilience High High Low Low Impact on production system Impact on market linkages De-maturity De-maturity Maturity Architectural phase Niche creation phase Revolutionary phase Regular phase Marzotto Marzotto Ten Cate Ten Cate Ten Cate Ten Cate