Cuttingequipment

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Cuttingequipment

  1. 1. CUTTING EQUIPMENTS
  2. 2. CUTTING PROCESS <ul><li>CUTTING IS THE PREPRODUCTION PROCESS OF SEPARATING (SECTIONING,CARVING,SEVERING) A SPREAD INTO GARMENT PARTS THAT ARE THE PRECISE SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE PATTERN PIECES ON A MARKER. </li></ul><ul><li>IT MAY ALSO INVOLVE TRANSFERING MARKS AND NOTCHES FROM THE MARKER TO GARMENT PARTS TO ASSIST OPERATORS IN SEWING. </li></ul>
  3. 3. CUTTING EQUIPMENTS <ul><li>THE EQUIPMENTS USED IN CUTTING PROCESS ARE CALLED CUTTING EQUIPMENTS. </li></ul><ul><li>PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES </li></ul><ul><li>STATIONARY CUTTERS </li></ul><ul><li>SERVO CUTTERS </li></ul><ul><li>SPECIALIZED CUTTING MACHINES </li></ul><ul><li>EQUIPMENTS FOR TRANSFERRING MARKS. </li></ul>
  4. 4. PORTABLE KNIVES <ul><li>CAN BE MOVED TO AND THROUGH A SPREAD BY AN OPERATOR. </li></ul><ul><li>VERTICAL RECIPROCATING STRAIGHT KNIVES </li></ul><ul><li>ROUND KNIVES </li></ul><ul><li>STRUCTURALLY AND MECHANICALLY THESE TWO TYPES OF MACHINE SHARE MANY SIMILARITIES. STRUCTURALLY BOTH TYPE OF KNIVES HAVE A BASE PLATE,POWER SYSTEM, HANDLE,CUTTING BLADE,SHARPENING DEVICE, AND BLADE GUARD. </li></ul>
  5. 6. VERTICAL STRAIGHT KNIVES <ul><li>VERTICAL STRAIGHT </li></ul><ul><li>KNIVES WITH </li></ul><ul><li>RECIPROCATING </li></ul><ul><li>BLADES ARE THE </li></ul><ul><li>KNIGHT OF CUTTING. </li></ul><ul><li>CUT WITH A UP AND </li></ul><ul><li>DOWN ACTION. </li></ul><ul><li>MOST COMMONLY USED </li></ul>
  6. 7. STRAIGHT KNIVES <ul><li>BLADES VARY IN LENGTH FROM 6 TO 14 INCHES. </li></ul><ul><li>BLADE LENGTH AND THE ADJUSTABLE HEIGHTS OF THE BLADE GUARD ARE FACTORS IN DETERMINING THE SPREAD DEPTH.THAT CAN BE CUT. </li></ul><ul><li>THE 90 DEGREE ANGLE OF THE NARROW ,THIN BLADE TO THE CUTTING SURFACE MAKES THIS KNIFE A GOOD CCHOICE FOR ACCURATELY CUTTING SHARP CORNERS,ANGLES AND CURVES. </li></ul><ul><li>MAKE ONLY LATARAL CUTS INTO A SPREAD </li></ul><ul><li>CANNOT BE USED TO CUT OUT AREAS FROM THE CENTRE OF GARMENT PARTS. </li></ul><ul><li>TO REMOVE A SECTION OF FABRIC WITHOUTCUTTING INTO THE AREAS REQUIRES A SLASHER. </li></ul><ul><li>ADAPTED VERSION OF A VERTICAL KNIVES </li></ul><ul><li>IT CUTS INTO THE SPREAD FROM ABOVE MUCH THE SAME AS A JIGSAW AND CUTS AROUND THE SECTION OF FABRIC TO BE REMOVED. </li></ul>
  7. 8. ROTARY OR ROUND KNIVES <ul><li>A ROUND BLADE THAT CUTS WITH A DOWNWARD TURN ATBTHE LEADING EDGE . </li></ul><ul><li>OPERATES WITH A ONE WAY THRUST </li></ul><ul><li>TTING CAPACITY IS DETERMINED </li></ul><ul><li>BY THE RADIUS OF THE BLADE, </li></ul><ul><li>MOTOR SIZE AND SPEED. </li></ul><ul><li>CANNOT MANIPULATE AROUND </li></ul><ul><li>TIGHT CURVES AND SHARP </li></ul><ul><li>ANGLES. </li></ul><ul><li>USED FOR ST.CUTS AND LARGE </li></ul><ul><li>RADIUS CURVES. </li></ul>
  8. 9. BASIC COMPONENTS OF PORTABLE KNIVES <ul><li>BLADES </li></ul><ul><li>ARE MOUNTED IN A VERTICAL POSITION. </li></ul><ul><li>VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES,CUTTING ACTION AND EDGE FINENESS. </li></ul><ul><li>AFFECT THE QUALITY OF CUT </li></ul><ul><li>MAY BE FLAT SURFACE,SAW TOOTHED,SERRATED, OR WAVY WITH A STRIATED SURFACES </li></ul>
  9. 12. BASE PLATE <ul><li>SUPPORTING FOUNDATION TO BALANCE THE CUTTING. </li></ul><ul><li>VARY IN SHAPE,SIZES DEPENDING UPON THE SIZE AND WEIGHT OF THE KNIFE </li></ul><ul><li>GUIDES THE KNIFE IN RELATION WITH THE CUTTING TABLE </li></ul><ul><li>THEY ARE SUPPORTED BY BERAING ROLLERS </li></ul><ul><li>EDGE OF THE PLATE IS SLOPED </li></ul>
  10. 13. POWER SYSTEM <ul><li>CONTROLS THE MOTOR AND POTENTIAL CUTTING SPEED </li></ul><ul><li>THE AMOUNT OF POWER NEEDED TO CUT A SPREAD DEPENDS ON THE HEIGHT OF THE SPREAD AND THE DENSITY OF THE FABRIC TO BE CUT </li></ul><ul><li>HORSEPOWER DETERMINES THE AMOUNT OF THRUST </li></ul><ul><li>HIGHER SPEED MEANS KNIFE MOVING FASTER </li></ul><ul><li>GREATER HORSEPOWER INCREASES MACHINE POWER AND WEIGHT ALSO </li></ul>
  11. 14. SHARPENING DEVICE <ul><li>APPROPRIATE FOR THE SPECIFIC BLADE TYPES </li></ul><ul><li>BLADES DULL QUICKLY WHEN CUTTING A DEEP SPREAD OR DENSE FABRIC </li></ul><ul><li>PREVENTS ROUGH ,FRAYED,OR FUSED EDGES </li></ul><ul><li>MAY BE STONE OR EMERY WHEELS OR ABRASIVE BET SHARPENERS </li></ul>
  12. 15. <ul><li>HANDLE </li></ul><ul><li>TO GRIP,GUIDE AND PROPEL THE KNIFE THROUGH THE SPREAD </li></ul><ul><li>BLADE GUARD </li></ul><ul><li>RESTS ON THE TOP PLY TO HELP STABILIZE THE SPREAD AND TO PROTECT THE OPERATOR’S HAND </li></ul><ul><li>METAL MESH GLOVES ARE ALSO AVAILABLE AS A SAFETY DEVICE </li></ul>
  13. 16. STATIONERY CUTTERS <ul><li>ARE THOSE CUTTING MACHINES THAT HAVE BLADES OR CUTTING DEVICES THAT REMAIN IN FIXED POSITION </li></ul><ul><li>TWO BASIC TYPES </li></ul><ul><li>BAND KNIVES </li></ul><ul><li>DIE CUTTERS </li></ul>
  14. 17. BAND KNIFE
  15. 18. BAND KNIFE <ul><li>FINE BLADES THAT ROTATE THROGH A SLOT IN THE CUTTING TABLE </li></ul><ul><li>CAN BE USED TO MAKE ONLY LATERAL CUTS </li></ul><ul><li>BLADES ARE FINER AND NARROWER THAN RECIPROCATING BLADES </li></ul><ul><li>TEMPLATES OF PLASTICS OR HEAVY CARDBOARD MAY BE PLACED ON ON TOP OF A SECTIONED BLOCK TO PROVIDE A GUIDE FOR CUTTING SPECIFIC SHAPES </li></ul><ul><li>SAFETY CONCERNS ARE MORE </li></ul>
  16. 19. DIE CUTTING <ul><li>MOST ACCURATE MEAN OF CUTTING </li></ul><ul><li>DIES ARE PRESHAPED METAL OUTLINES WITH ONE CUTTING EDGE </li></ul><ul><li>BASIC PARTS </li></ul><ul><li>TABLE BLOCK </li></ul><ul><li>RAM HEAD </li></ul><ul><li>MOTOR </li></ul><ul><li>RAM DRIVE </li></ul><ul><li>SYSTEM </li></ul>
  17. 20. contd.. <ul><li>WHEN AN OPERATOR ENGAGES THE MACHINE,THE RAM HEAD MOVES INTO THE PLACE ABOVE THE DIE,APPLIES TONS OF PRESSURE TO THE DIE,RELEASES AND RETURNS TO POSITION.CUTTING ACTION IS VERTICAL AS THE RAM PRESSES THE DIE INTO THE SURFACE OF THE FABRIC. </li></ul><ul><li>FREQUENTLY USED FOR SMALL PIECES OF HIGH ACCRACY LIKE COLLARS,POCKET FLAPS OR APPLIQUES </li></ul><ul><li>LEATHER GOODS ARE FREQUENTLY CUT </li></ul><ul><li>CAN ALSO BE USED TO CUT SHAPES FROM THE CENTER OF THE GARMENT PARTS </li></ul>
  18. 21. contd.. <ul><li>DIE CUTTING IS LABOR </li></ul><ul><li>INTENSIVE WHEN DIES </li></ul><ul><li>ARE MANUALLY PLACED </li></ul><ul><li>IT CAN BE AUTOMATED </li></ul><ul><li>FOR CONTINUOUS LINE </li></ul><ul><li>CUTTING </li></ul><ul><li>A SINGLE DIE FOR A </li></ul><ul><li>T SHIRT WOULD CONTAIN </li></ul><ul><li>A SINGLE PIECE BODY </li></ul><ul><li>UTILIZING A FOLD AT </li></ul><ul><li>CENTRE FRONT AND </li></ul><ul><li>CENTRE BACK DOVETAILED </li></ul><ul><li>WITH A SLEEVE SHAPE. </li></ul>
  19. 22. SERVO CUTTER <ul><li>A BRIDGE BETWEEN COMPUTER CONTROLLED AND MANUAL CUTTING </li></ul><ul><li>OVERHEAD SERVO MOTOR WITH ADJUSTABLE SPEED AND A SUSPENSION SYSTEM THAT SUPPORTS A KNIFE PERPENDICULAR TO THE CUTTING TABLE </li></ul><ul><li>THIS REDUCES PROBLEM WITH TILTING THE BLADE AND INACCURATE CUTTING </li></ul><ul><li>IT CAN MAKE TIGHTER TURNS WITH LESS DISTORTION IN THE LAY </li></ul><ul><li>IT COMBINES VERTICAL CUTTING AND BAND KNIFE CUTTING INTO ONE MACHINE </li></ul><ul><li>DEEPER SPREADS WITH GREATER ACCURACY </li></ul><ul><li>LESSERINVESTMENT THAN COMPUTERIZED CUTTER </li></ul>
  20. 23. SPECIALIZED CUTTING MACHINES <ul><li>DESIGNED FOR SPECIFIC OPERATIONS AND SPECIFIC PRODUCTS </li></ul>CLOTH CUT STRIP MACHINE
  21. 24. WIRELESS RECHARGEABLE ELECTRIC SCISSOR MINI ROUND CUTTER
  22. 25. TRANSFERRING MARKS <ul><li>MARKS AND NOTCHES ARE TRANSFERRED FROM MARKERS TO THE PERIMETER OR INTERNAL SURFACES OF GARMENT PARTS TO FACILITATE THE SEWING OPERATION </li></ul><ul><li>MARKS SHOULD NOT DAMAGE OR DISCOLOUR THE VISIBLE PARTS OF THE GARMENTS. </li></ul><ul><li>EDGE MARKS </li></ul><ul><li>INTERNAL MARKS </li></ul>
  23. 26. AUTOMATED,NUMERICALLY CONTROLLED CUTTING SYSTEM
  24. 27. ELEMENTS OF CNC <ul><li>TABLE </li></ul><ul><li>CUTTING HEAD </li></ul><ul><li>SERVO MOTOR A </li></ul><ul><li>KNIFE </li></ul><ul><li>SHARPENER </li></ul><ul><li>CARRIAGE </li></ul><ul><li>SERVO MOTOR B </li></ul><ul><li>SERVO MOTOR C </li></ul><ul><li>SERVO MOTOR D </li></ul>
  25. 28. CNC for leather KNIFE CUTTER <ul><li>SPEED= 5-12 m/sec </li></ul><ul><li>Length of knife depends upon </li></ul><ul><li>number of plies. </li></ul>
  26. 29. Types of knifes used
  27. 31. LASER CUTTER <ul><li>It is a V shaped beam of width of 0.004 inch. </li></ul><ul><li>Cutting speed= 30-40 m/min </li></ul><ul><li>Heat produced tends to seal fabric. </li></ul><ul><li>It can focus to limited depth </li></ul><ul><li>Suitable for cutting single ply. </li></ul><ul><li>More accurate </li></ul>
  28. 33. Laser cutting CNC
  29. 34. WATER JET CUTTERS Width=0.0010-0.0015 inch Pressure=70,000 pounds/square inch Does not cause fusing. May fray and tangle yarns. Suitable for cutting leather and vinyl fabrics.
  30. 35. Water jet cutters… Cutting Source : High Pressure Water + Abrasive Table(Cutting Table Unit) - High rigidity and precision feed system driven with X-axis and 2-axis simultaneous driving mechanism, in - gantry structure - Ball-Screw Feed driver enables high precision feeding (Repetitive Accuracy: ¡¾0.03mm, Position Accuracy: ¡¾0.05mm) - Nut-mechanism provides high speed/high accuracy driving - Block Lattice can be replaced according to user requirement, or by - - individual Lattice replacement
  31. 37. 4000 Series Cantilever WaterJet
  32. 38. Comparison… Abrasive Water Jet v Laser <ul><li>AWJ strengths.. </li></ul><ul><li>Accuracy the same as Laser but in much thicker materials </li></ul><ul><li>Parts up to 50mm thick in almost any material </li></ul><ul><li>No heat-affected zone to prevent secondary operations </li></ul>
  33. 39. ULTRASONIC CUTTERS <ul><li>Produces vibration freqyency of 20 kHz </li></ul><ul><li>10 plies can be cut. </li></ul><ul><li>Lower price than laser cutter. </li></ul><ul><li>PLASMA JET </li></ul><ul><li>High temperature ionised gas acts as cutter. </li></ul><ul><li>Heat emission causes damage. </li></ul>
  34. 40. PLASMA CUTTER
  35. 41. Plasma cutting is a process that is used to cut steel and other metals (or sometimes other materials like textiles) using a plasma torch. In this process, an inert gas (in some units, compressed air) is blown at high speed out of a nozzle; at the same time an electrical arc is formed through that gas from the nozzle to the surface being cut, turning some of that gas to plasma. The plasma is sufficiently hot to melt the metal being cut and moves sufficiently fast to blow molten metal away from the cut. Plasma can also be used for plasma arc welding and other applications.
  36. 42. <ul><li>Specifications: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Input voltage: (50/60Hz) 220V +/- 10% 1PH </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Frequency (Hz): 50/60 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Rated input current (A): 22.1 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>No-load voltage (V): 230 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Out current adjustment (V): 20-40 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Rated working voltage (V): 96 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Duty cycle (%): 60 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>No-load loss (W): 40 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Efficiency (%): 85 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Power factor: 0.93 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Insulation grade: B </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Housing protection: IP21 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Pilot arc model: touch </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Cutting thickness (mm): 1-16 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Gross weight (kg): 9 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Fittings: Trafimet101 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Dimensions (mm): W 371x D 153 x H 232 </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Input voltage can be custom made </li></ul></ul>
  37. 43. Air plasma cutter <ul><li>Features: </li></ul><ul><ul><li>Metal plates with different thicknesses can be cut into any shape </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Continuous, adjustable and exact cutting current </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Optimized design layout, high frequency inverter, high duty cycle, low energy consumption </li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li>Compact in volume, light in weight, easy to carry, especially suitable for outdoor, mobile operation </li></ul></ul>
  38. 44. <ul><li>HOW A PLASMA CUTTER WORKS??? </li></ul>
  39. 45. Bibliography <ul><li>BOOKS:- </li></ul><ul><li>“ The technology of Clothing Manufacturing“ by Carr & Latham </li></ul><ul><li>“ Apparel Manufacturing” by Glock & Kunz </li></ul><ul><li>ARTICLES:- </li></ul><ul><li>Stitch world-pg no. 10 March 2006 </li></ul><ul><li> pg no.46 March 2007 </li></ul><ul><li> pg no.24 august 2007 WEBSITES:- </li></ul><ul><li>www.gerbertechnology.com </li></ul><ul><li>www.assyst-intl.com </li></ul><ul><li>www.apparatex.com </li></ul><ul><li>www.lectra.com </li></ul><ul><li>www.tukatech.com </li></ul>
  40. 46. THANK YOU

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