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Dpto. Física y Geociencias
Morphodynamic response of Colombian
Caribbean beaches under extreme wave
events
Jairo Cueto F., MSc. (student)
Barranquilla – Colombia
CONTENTS
Background and problem description
Justification
Methodology
Results & discussion
Theoretical framework
Conclusions
3
BACKGROUND & PROBLEM
DESCRIPTION
Colombian
Caribbean
+ 1600 Km of coast
SouthAmerica
+ 11M Inhabitants
Tourism & economics
Barranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta, etc.
7 Caribbean Departments
90% of Colombia’s portuary activity
Thousands of tourists per day
Colombian Caribbean Coast
4
BACKGROUND & PROBLEM
DESCRIPTION Colombian Caribbean Coast
ColombianCaribbean
PELIGRODANGER
Hurricanes
Cold Fronts
Northern coast of Colombia costantly in danger because of
hurricanes and cold fronts.
Coast line changes, beach loss and floodings could be critical.
Erosion in Ciénaga Km19
$5M USD
Money spent over the
last 10 years
Erosion in Cartagena
$33M USD
National plan 2018
Short term morpho
changes not widely
studied on Colombian
Caribbean beaches.
OBJECTIVE General Objective
5
To establish the morphodynamic response of the Colombian Caribbean beaches
(Bocagrande, Bocatocino and Costa Verde) to extreme wave events, such as
hurricanes and cold fronts.
BocatocinoCartagena Ciénaga
JUSTIFICATION
6
Practical uses Decision making and coastal management.
Theorical perspective Morphodynamic response of
dissipative and intermediate-reflective beaches.
Methodological utility Future research.
Social importance Communities living near the sea.
Model description: XBeach
7
THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK
XBeach based on four routines
Wave module
wave forcing
Flow module
water level, current
water level, current
Sediment module
sediment
transport
Morpho module
Bed level
METHODOLOGY
1
Data collection
2
Model calibration
and validation
3
Field cases
4
Results analysis
8
1
Data collection
General characterization
- Cartagena, Bolívar
- Fine sands (0.08 – 0.42 mm)
- 2 dry seasons (jun-aug/dec-mar)
- 2 wet seasons (apr-may/sep-nov)
S = 3°
Dissipative
Bocagrande
Cartagena
Bocagrande
Images from Google Earth
METHODOLOGY
9
[6] Poveda, G. (2004). La hidroclimatología de Colombia. Ciencias de la Tierra
2 x 1 km
1
Data collection
General characterization
- Ciénaga, Magdalena
- Medium sands (0.42 – 2.00 mm)
- 2 dry seasons (jun-aug/dec-mar)
- 2 wet seasons (apr-may/sep-nov)
S = 7°
Reflective/int.
Costa Verde
Ciénaga
Costa Verde
Images from Google Earth
METHODOLOGY
10
4 x 1 km
1
Data collection
Field campaigns
METHODOLOGY
AQ4-OBS
AQ3
AQ2
RBR
AQ1
Costa Verde beach. Image from Google Earth
Equipment Distance (m) Distance (m)
AQ4 - OBS 3 10
AQ3 19 26
AQ2 180 44
AQ1 321 107
RBR 750 650
CV
11
BG
1
Data collection
Variables characterization
METHODOLOGY
Field campaigns composition:
4 days – 96 sea states – 5 sensors per beach
S4S3S2S1RBR
BG_RBR_EH_D1_E16 BG: Bocagrande beach
RBR: Equipment
EH: Wet season
D1: Day #1
E16: Sea state #16 (3-4 p.m.)
P
Vx
Vy
12
1
Data collection
Variables characterization
METHODOLOGY
P
Vx
Vy
FFT Low & high
frequencies
IG SS
Hs
Coastal currents
13
XBeach
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
Sensitivity analysis Default profile
Distance till shore (m)
Waveheight(m)
Wave variation
Cell size
Friction
Viscosity
Gamma
Smag. 0.1 – 0.7 m2/s
40 – 70 m1/2/s
0.5 – 2.0 m
3 – 20
14
XBeach
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
Hydro-validation Beach profile
Distance till shore (m)
Waveheight(m)
Wave variation
: Measured data
96 sea states
2 seasons
2 beaches
5 sensors
x
1920 Hs validation points
Forcing XB with RBR data
15
XBeach
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
Hydro-validation Beach profile
Distance till shore (m)
Waveheight(m)
Wave variation
: Measured data
Forcing XB with RBR data
160SEA STATES
modeled
40 40 40 40
CV-EH CV-ES BG-EH BG-ES
16
XBeach
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
Morpho-validation Beach profile
Distance till shore (m)
Waveheight(m)
Wave variation
Modeled profile
Forcing XB with SWAN data
Storm profile
Storm profile measured
Storm profile modeled
VS
17
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
SWAN
Sensitivity analysis Bathymetry
Distance near shore (m)
Waveheight(m)
Wave variation
XB Profile
starting point
18
Cell size
Friction
Hindcast winds
White-capping
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
SWAN
Sensitivity analysis Bathymetry
Distance near shore (m)
Waveheight(m)
Wave variation
XB Profile
starting point
VALIDATION
Hs at XB Profile starting point
Hs measured with RBR
VS
19
METHODOLOGY
2
Model calibration
and validation
SWAN
Costa Verde
- Forced with buoys
data
- Outcome: Hs
SignificantWaveheight(m)
XB Profile
starting point
Wave propagation
20
Example
Wave reanalysis data
METHODOLOGY
BV07
Atlántico
Bolívar
BV09
BV10
Magdalena
Colombian Central
Caribbean Virtual buoys of reanalysis:
WW3 generated
Exteme wave regime
construction
Wave series extraction
(1979-2018)
21
3
Field cases
METHODOLOGY
Extreme events impact
3
Field cases
HURRICANES COLD FRONTS
Hurricane X Hs | Tp | Dm
X days: modelling time X days: modelling time
BG
22
Cold front X Hs | Tp | Dm
BT
CV
METHODOLOGY
Morpho changes
4
Results analysis
Waveheight(m)
Distance till shore (m)
SS wave height
IG wave height
Initial bed level
Final bed level
WAVE ACTION INDUCED
(extreme events)XB – 1D
Submerged formations
Slope changes: profile configuration
Beach loss/ Coast line advance
Beach loss: Land lost by wave action
Slope changes: New breaking parameters
Submerged formations: Bars
23
METHODOLOGY
Hydro analisys
4
Results analysis
WAVE HEIGHT & CURRENTS
24
SS wave height (modelled)
IG wave height (modelled)
SS wave height (measured)
IG wave height (measured)
Waveheight(m)
Distance till shore (m)
XB
Flowvelocity
Distance till shore (m)
XB
Depthaveraged
Depth averaged flow
velocity (modelled)
Depth averaged flow
velocity (measured)
0
0
25
RESULTS & DISCUSSION
A
XBeach calibration
& validation
B
Field cases
XBeach
Costa Verde
Dry season
Hs = 0.89 m
26
A
XBeach calibration
and validation
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Costa Verde
Wet season
Hs = 0.52 m
ES-D1-E19EH-D3-E18
XBeach
Bocagrande
Dry season
Hs = 2.02 m
27
A
XBeach calibration
and validation
Bocagrande
Wet season
Hs = 0.72 m
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Skill Scores: Costa Verde
CV-ES S1 S2 S3
R2 0.8762 0.8568 0.8114
Bias -0.0109 -0.0012 -0.0123
Willmott 0.9629 0.9562 0.9391
28
A
XBeach calibration
and validation
Sensor 1 Sensor 1
CV-EH S1 S2 S3
R2 0.8672 0.8368 0.8313
Bias -0.0412 -0.0432 -0.0154
Willmott 0.8993 0.8732 0.8692
Wet season Dry season
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Skill Scores: Bocagrande
29
A
XBeach calibration
and validation
Sensor 1
Wet season
Sensor 1
Dry season
BG-ES S1 S2 S3
R2 0.9070 0.8804 0.8425
Bias 0.0127 -0.0083 -0.0350
Willmott 0.9720 0.9482 0.8324
BG-EH S1 S2 S3
R2 0.8872 0.8801 0.8214
Bias -0.0312 -0.0377 -0.0371
Willmott 0.8996 0.8812 0.8414
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
Hurricanes Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Joan (1988) 0.60 8.28 48.85
Bret (1993) 1.64 9.62 31.51
Julio (1996) 1.64 8.86 28.02
Mitch (1998) 0.83 8.08 273.43
Lenny (1999) 2.74 9.60 299.11
Sandy (2009) 1.21 8.93 276.66
Matthew (2016) 3.20 14.12 29.62
BV07
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Ciénaga
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
30
CiénagaB
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Ciénaga
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
31
Cold Fronts Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Cold front (2009) 2.17 9.09 29.69
Cold front (2017) 1.52 8.05 34.15
BV07
Ciénaga
Hurricanes
Joan
Bret
Julio
Mitch
Lenny
Sandy
Matthew
B
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Hurricanes Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Joan (1988) 1.63 6.82 244.31
Bret (1993) 1.89 7.41 26.93
Julio (1996) 1.13 9.69 33.3
Mitch (1998) 1.62 6.24 249.45
Lenny (1999) 2.77 9.24 308.27
Sandy (2009) 1.96 6.72 256.06
Matthew (2016) 2.06 14.12 29.62
Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
BV10
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Cartagena
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
32
CartagenaB
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Cartagena
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
33
Cold Fronts Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Cold front (2009) 2.61 9.07 28.34
Cold front (2017) 3.53 9.14 35.79
BV10
Cartagena
Hurricanes
Joan
Bret
Julio
Mitch
Lenny
Sandy
Matthew
B
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Costa Verde
34
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION B Field cases
SS wave height
IG wave height
Initial bed level
Final bed level
Cold Front 2009 Lenny 1999 Matthew 2016
Profile remains stable: Reflective S = 7°
Beach loss: Cold front – 11 m ; Lenny – 13 m ; Matthew – 9 m
Bar begining
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
Bocagrande
35
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION B Field cases
SS wave height
IG wave height
Initial bed level
Final bed level
Cold Front 2017 Lenny 1999 Matthew 2016
Cold front – no bar ; Lenny – bar beggining ; Matthew – bar beggining
Beach loss: Cold front – 54 m ; Lenny – 41 m ; Matthew – 40 m
Storm profile: +disspative
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
C
B
CONCLUSIONS
Bocagrande’s
morphodynamic is heavily
affected by extreme wave
events, losing large amounts
of sediment. This fact occurs
because waves in
Bocagrande tend to be more
energetic than in Costa
Verde, where wave height is
lower due to refraction and
diffraction effects when
approaching the coast.
Under extreme wave
conditions, beach loss in
Bocagrande could be critical
(+50 m) causing severe dune
erosion and floods, affecting
the community living by the
sea.
The own intermediate-
reflective nature of Costa
Verde’s beach profile provides
a shield for this area under
extreme wave events. A
significant portion of the wave
energy is dissipated through
breaking and the
morphological structure
remains stable. Beach loss for
Costa Verde cases is not
critical (+10 m).
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Geo4
37
Jairo Cueto, MSc. (Student)
Universidad del Norte
jecueto@uninorte.edu.co

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DSD-INT 2018 Morphodynamic response of Colombian Caribbean beaches under extreme wave events -Cueto

  • 1. Dpto. Física y Geociencias Morphodynamic response of Colombian Caribbean beaches under extreme wave events Jairo Cueto F., MSc. (student) Barranquilla – Colombia
  • 2. CONTENTS Background and problem description Justification Methodology Results & discussion Theoretical framework Conclusions
  • 3. 3 BACKGROUND & PROBLEM DESCRIPTION Colombian Caribbean + 1600 Km of coast SouthAmerica + 11M Inhabitants Tourism & economics Barranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta, etc. 7 Caribbean Departments 90% of Colombia’s portuary activity Thousands of tourists per day Colombian Caribbean Coast
  • 4. 4 BACKGROUND & PROBLEM DESCRIPTION Colombian Caribbean Coast ColombianCaribbean PELIGRODANGER Hurricanes Cold Fronts Northern coast of Colombia costantly in danger because of hurricanes and cold fronts. Coast line changes, beach loss and floodings could be critical. Erosion in Ciénaga Km19 $5M USD Money spent over the last 10 years Erosion in Cartagena $33M USD National plan 2018 Short term morpho changes not widely studied on Colombian Caribbean beaches.
  • 5. OBJECTIVE General Objective 5 To establish the morphodynamic response of the Colombian Caribbean beaches (Bocagrande, Bocatocino and Costa Verde) to extreme wave events, such as hurricanes and cold fronts. BocatocinoCartagena Ciénaga
  • 6. JUSTIFICATION 6 Practical uses Decision making and coastal management. Theorical perspective Morphodynamic response of dissipative and intermediate-reflective beaches. Methodological utility Future research. Social importance Communities living near the sea.
  • 7. Model description: XBeach 7 THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK XBeach based on four routines Wave module wave forcing Flow module water level, current water level, current Sediment module sediment transport Morpho module Bed level
  • 8. METHODOLOGY 1 Data collection 2 Model calibration and validation 3 Field cases 4 Results analysis 8
  • 9. 1 Data collection General characterization - Cartagena, Bolívar - Fine sands (0.08 – 0.42 mm) - 2 dry seasons (jun-aug/dec-mar) - 2 wet seasons (apr-may/sep-nov) S = 3° Dissipative Bocagrande Cartagena Bocagrande Images from Google Earth METHODOLOGY 9 [6] Poveda, G. (2004). La hidroclimatología de Colombia. Ciencias de la Tierra 2 x 1 km
  • 10. 1 Data collection General characterization - Ciénaga, Magdalena - Medium sands (0.42 – 2.00 mm) - 2 dry seasons (jun-aug/dec-mar) - 2 wet seasons (apr-may/sep-nov) S = 7° Reflective/int. Costa Verde Ciénaga Costa Verde Images from Google Earth METHODOLOGY 10 4 x 1 km
  • 11. 1 Data collection Field campaigns METHODOLOGY AQ4-OBS AQ3 AQ2 RBR AQ1 Costa Verde beach. Image from Google Earth Equipment Distance (m) Distance (m) AQ4 - OBS 3 10 AQ3 19 26 AQ2 180 44 AQ1 321 107 RBR 750 650 CV 11 BG
  • 12. 1 Data collection Variables characterization METHODOLOGY Field campaigns composition: 4 days – 96 sea states – 5 sensors per beach S4S3S2S1RBR BG_RBR_EH_D1_E16 BG: Bocagrande beach RBR: Equipment EH: Wet season D1: Day #1 E16: Sea state #16 (3-4 p.m.) P Vx Vy 12
  • 13. 1 Data collection Variables characterization METHODOLOGY P Vx Vy FFT Low & high frequencies IG SS Hs Coastal currents 13
  • 14. XBeach METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation Sensitivity analysis Default profile Distance till shore (m) Waveheight(m) Wave variation Cell size Friction Viscosity Gamma Smag. 0.1 – 0.7 m2/s 40 – 70 m1/2/s 0.5 – 2.0 m 3 – 20 14
  • 15. XBeach METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation Hydro-validation Beach profile Distance till shore (m) Waveheight(m) Wave variation : Measured data 96 sea states 2 seasons 2 beaches 5 sensors x 1920 Hs validation points Forcing XB with RBR data 15
  • 16. XBeach METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation Hydro-validation Beach profile Distance till shore (m) Waveheight(m) Wave variation : Measured data Forcing XB with RBR data 160SEA STATES modeled 40 40 40 40 CV-EH CV-ES BG-EH BG-ES 16
  • 17. XBeach METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation Morpho-validation Beach profile Distance till shore (m) Waveheight(m) Wave variation Modeled profile Forcing XB with SWAN data Storm profile Storm profile measured Storm profile modeled VS 17
  • 18. METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation SWAN Sensitivity analysis Bathymetry Distance near shore (m) Waveheight(m) Wave variation XB Profile starting point 18 Cell size Friction Hindcast winds White-capping
  • 19. METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation SWAN Sensitivity analysis Bathymetry Distance near shore (m) Waveheight(m) Wave variation XB Profile starting point VALIDATION Hs at XB Profile starting point Hs measured with RBR VS 19
  • 20. METHODOLOGY 2 Model calibration and validation SWAN Costa Verde - Forced with buoys data - Outcome: Hs SignificantWaveheight(m) XB Profile starting point Wave propagation 20 Example
  • 21. Wave reanalysis data METHODOLOGY BV07 Atlántico Bolívar BV09 BV10 Magdalena Colombian Central Caribbean Virtual buoys of reanalysis: WW3 generated Exteme wave regime construction Wave series extraction (1979-2018) 21 3 Field cases
  • 22. METHODOLOGY Extreme events impact 3 Field cases HURRICANES COLD FRONTS Hurricane X Hs | Tp | Dm X days: modelling time X days: modelling time BG 22 Cold front X Hs | Tp | Dm BT CV
  • 23. METHODOLOGY Morpho changes 4 Results analysis Waveheight(m) Distance till shore (m) SS wave height IG wave height Initial bed level Final bed level WAVE ACTION INDUCED (extreme events)XB – 1D Submerged formations Slope changes: profile configuration Beach loss/ Coast line advance Beach loss: Land lost by wave action Slope changes: New breaking parameters Submerged formations: Bars 23
  • 24. METHODOLOGY Hydro analisys 4 Results analysis WAVE HEIGHT & CURRENTS 24 SS wave height (modelled) IG wave height (modelled) SS wave height (measured) IG wave height (measured) Waveheight(m) Distance till shore (m) XB Flowvelocity Distance till shore (m) XB Depthaveraged Depth averaged flow velocity (modelled) Depth averaged flow velocity (measured) 0 0
  • 25. 25 RESULTS & DISCUSSION A XBeach calibration & validation B Field cases
  • 26. XBeach Costa Verde Dry season Hs = 0.89 m 26 A XBeach calibration and validation RESULTS & DISCUSSION Costa Verde Wet season Hs = 0.52 m ES-D1-E19EH-D3-E18
  • 27. XBeach Bocagrande Dry season Hs = 2.02 m 27 A XBeach calibration and validation Bocagrande Wet season Hs = 0.72 m RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 28. Skill Scores: Costa Verde CV-ES S1 S2 S3 R2 0.8762 0.8568 0.8114 Bias -0.0109 -0.0012 -0.0123 Willmott 0.9629 0.9562 0.9391 28 A XBeach calibration and validation Sensor 1 Sensor 1 CV-EH S1 S2 S3 R2 0.8672 0.8368 0.8313 Bias -0.0412 -0.0432 -0.0154 Willmott 0.8993 0.8732 0.8692 Wet season Dry season RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 29. Skill Scores: Bocagrande 29 A XBeach calibration and validation Sensor 1 Wet season Sensor 1 Dry season BG-ES S1 S2 S3 R2 0.9070 0.8804 0.8425 Bias 0.0127 -0.0083 -0.0350 Willmott 0.9720 0.9482 0.8324 BG-EH S1 S2 S3 R2 0.8872 0.8801 0.8214 Bias -0.0312 -0.0377 -0.0371 Willmott 0.8996 0.8812 0.8414 RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 30. Colombian Central Caribbean Wave reanalysis data Hurricanes Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°) Joan (1988) 0.60 8.28 48.85 Bret (1993) 1.64 9.62 31.51 Julio (1996) 1.64 8.86 28.02 Mitch (1998) 0.83 8.08 273.43 Lenny (1999) 2.74 9.60 299.11 Sandy (2009) 1.21 8.93 276.66 Matthew (2016) 3.20 14.12 29.62 BV07 Most significant extreme events HURRICANES COLD FRONTS Ciénaga Cold Fronts 2009 2017 30 CiénagaB Field cases RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 31. Colombian Central Caribbean Wave reanalysis data Most significant extreme events HURRICANES COLD FRONTS Ciénaga Cold Fronts 2009 2017 31 Cold Fronts Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°) Cold front (2009) 2.17 9.09 29.69 Cold front (2017) 1.52 8.05 34.15 BV07 Ciénaga Hurricanes Joan Bret Julio Mitch Lenny Sandy Matthew B Field cases RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 32. Hurricanes Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°) Joan (1988) 1.63 6.82 244.31 Bret (1993) 1.89 7.41 26.93 Julio (1996) 1.13 9.69 33.3 Mitch (1998) 1.62 6.24 249.45 Lenny (1999) 2.77 9.24 308.27 Sandy (2009) 1.96 6.72 256.06 Matthew (2016) 2.06 14.12 29.62 Colombian Central Caribbean Wave reanalysis data BV10 Most significant extreme events HURRICANES COLD FRONTS Cartagena Cold Fronts 2009 2017 32 CartagenaB Field cases RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 33. Colombian Central Caribbean Wave reanalysis data Most significant extreme events HURRICANES COLD FRONTS Cartagena Cold Fronts 2009 2017 33 Cold Fronts Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°) Cold front (2009) 2.61 9.07 28.34 Cold front (2017) 3.53 9.14 35.79 BV10 Cartagena Hurricanes Joan Bret Julio Mitch Lenny Sandy Matthew B Field cases RESULTS & DISCUSSION
  • 34. Costa Verde 34 RESULTS & DISCUSSION B Field cases SS wave height IG wave height Initial bed level Final bed level Cold Front 2009 Lenny 1999 Matthew 2016 Profile remains stable: Reflective S = 7° Beach loss: Cold front – 11 m ; Lenny – 13 m ; Matthew – 9 m Bar begining A B C A B C A B C A B C
  • 35. Bocagrande 35 RESULTS & DISCUSSION B Field cases SS wave height IG wave height Initial bed level Final bed level Cold Front 2017 Lenny 1999 Matthew 2016 Cold front – no bar ; Lenny – bar beggining ; Matthew – bar beggining Beach loss: Cold front – 54 m ; Lenny – 41 m ; Matthew – 40 m Storm profile: +disspative A B C A B C A B C A C B
  • 36. CONCLUSIONS Bocagrande’s morphodynamic is heavily affected by extreme wave events, losing large amounts of sediment. This fact occurs because waves in Bocagrande tend to be more energetic than in Costa Verde, where wave height is lower due to refraction and diffraction effects when approaching the coast. Under extreme wave conditions, beach loss in Bocagrande could be critical (+50 m) causing severe dune erosion and floods, affecting the community living by the sea. The own intermediate- reflective nature of Costa Verde’s beach profile provides a shield for this area under extreme wave events. A significant portion of the wave energy is dissipated through breaking and the morphological structure remains stable. Beach loss for Costa Verde cases is not critical (+10 m).
  • 37. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Geo4 37 Jairo Cueto, MSc. (Student) Universidad del Norte jecueto@uninorte.edu.co