Presentation by Jairo Cueto, Universidad del Norte, Columbia at the XBeach User Day 2018, during Delft Software Days - Edition 2018. Thursday, 15 November 2018, Delft.
3. 3
BACKGROUND & PROBLEM
DESCRIPTION
Colombian
Caribbean
+ 1600 Km of coast
SouthAmerica
+ 11M Inhabitants
Tourism & economics
Barranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta, etc.
7 Caribbean Departments
90% of Colombia’s portuary activity
Thousands of tourists per day
Colombian Caribbean Coast
4. 4
BACKGROUND & PROBLEM
DESCRIPTION Colombian Caribbean Coast
ColombianCaribbean
PELIGRODANGER
Hurricanes
Cold Fronts
Northern coast of Colombia costantly in danger because of
hurricanes and cold fronts.
Coast line changes, beach loss and floodings could be critical.
Erosion in Ciénaga Km19
$5M USD
Money spent over the
last 10 years
Erosion in Cartagena
$33M USD
National plan 2018
Short term morpho
changes not widely
studied on Colombian
Caribbean beaches.
5. OBJECTIVE General Objective
5
To establish the morphodynamic response of the Colombian Caribbean beaches
(Bocagrande, Bocatocino and Costa Verde) to extreme wave events, such as
hurricanes and cold fronts.
BocatocinoCartagena Ciénaga
6. JUSTIFICATION
6
Practical uses Decision making and coastal management.
Theorical perspective Morphodynamic response of
dissipative and intermediate-reflective beaches.
Methodological utility Future research.
Social importance Communities living near the sea.
7. Model description: XBeach
7
THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK
XBeach based on four routines
Wave module
wave forcing
Flow module
water level, current
water level, current
Sediment module
sediment
transport
Morpho module
Bed level
9. 1
Data collection
General characterization
- Cartagena, Bolívar
- Fine sands (0.08 – 0.42 mm)
- 2 dry seasons (jun-aug/dec-mar)
- 2 wet seasons (apr-may/sep-nov)
S = 3°
Dissipative
Bocagrande
Cartagena
Bocagrande
Images from Google Earth
METHODOLOGY
9
[6] Poveda, G. (2004). La hidroclimatología de Colombia. Ciencias de la Tierra
2 x 1 km
10. 1
Data collection
General characterization
- Ciénaga, Magdalena
- Medium sands (0.42 – 2.00 mm)
- 2 dry seasons (jun-aug/dec-mar)
- 2 wet seasons (apr-may/sep-nov)
S = 7°
Reflective/int.
Costa Verde
Ciénaga
Costa Verde
Images from Google Earth
METHODOLOGY
10
4 x 1 km
12. 1
Data collection
Variables characterization
METHODOLOGY
Field campaigns composition:
4 days – 96 sea states – 5 sensors per beach
S4S3S2S1RBR
BG_RBR_EH_D1_E16 BG: Bocagrande beach
RBR: Equipment
EH: Wet season
D1: Day #1
E16: Sea state #16 (3-4 p.m.)
P
Vx
Vy
12
22. METHODOLOGY
Extreme events impact
3
Field cases
HURRICANES COLD FRONTS
Hurricane X Hs | Tp | Dm
X days: modelling time X days: modelling time
BG
22
Cold front X Hs | Tp | Dm
BT
CV
23. METHODOLOGY
Morpho changes
4
Results analysis
Waveheight(m)
Distance till shore (m)
SS wave height
IG wave height
Initial bed level
Final bed level
WAVE ACTION INDUCED
(extreme events)XB – 1D
Submerged formations
Slope changes: profile configuration
Beach loss/ Coast line advance
Beach loss: Land lost by wave action
Slope changes: New breaking parameters
Submerged formations: Bars
23
26. XBeach
Costa Verde
Dry season
Hs = 0.89 m
26
A
XBeach calibration
and validation
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
Costa Verde
Wet season
Hs = 0.52 m
ES-D1-E19EH-D3-E18
27. XBeach
Bocagrande
Dry season
Hs = 2.02 m
27
A
XBeach calibration
and validation
Bocagrande
Wet season
Hs = 0.72 m
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
30. Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
Hurricanes Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Joan (1988) 0.60 8.28 48.85
Bret (1993) 1.64 9.62 31.51
Julio (1996) 1.64 8.86 28.02
Mitch (1998) 0.83 8.08 273.43
Lenny (1999) 2.74 9.60 299.11
Sandy (2009) 1.21 8.93 276.66
Matthew (2016) 3.20 14.12 29.62
BV07
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Ciénaga
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
30
CiénagaB
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
31. Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Ciénaga
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
31
Cold Fronts Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Cold front (2009) 2.17 9.09 29.69
Cold front (2017) 1.52 8.05 34.15
BV07
Ciénaga
Hurricanes
Joan
Bret
Julio
Mitch
Lenny
Sandy
Matthew
B
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
32. Hurricanes Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Joan (1988) 1.63 6.82 244.31
Bret (1993) 1.89 7.41 26.93
Julio (1996) 1.13 9.69 33.3
Mitch (1998) 1.62 6.24 249.45
Lenny (1999) 2.77 9.24 308.27
Sandy (2009) 1.96 6.72 256.06
Matthew (2016) 2.06 14.12 29.62
Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
BV10
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Cartagena
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
32
CartagenaB
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
33. Colombian Central
Caribbean
Wave reanalysis data
Most significant extreme events
HURRICANES
COLD FRONTS
Cartagena
Cold Fronts
2009
2017
33
Cold Fronts Hs (m) Tp (s) Dm (°)
Cold front (2009) 2.61 9.07 28.34
Cold front (2017) 3.53 9.14 35.79
BV10
Cartagena
Hurricanes
Joan
Bret
Julio
Mitch
Lenny
Sandy
Matthew
B
Field cases
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION
34. Costa Verde
34
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION B Field cases
SS wave height
IG wave height
Initial bed level
Final bed level
Cold Front 2009 Lenny 1999 Matthew 2016
Profile remains stable: Reflective S = 7°
Beach loss: Cold front – 11 m ; Lenny – 13 m ; Matthew – 9 m
Bar begining
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
35. Bocagrande
35
RESULTS &
DISCUSSION B Field cases
SS wave height
IG wave height
Initial bed level
Final bed level
Cold Front 2017 Lenny 1999 Matthew 2016
Cold front – no bar ; Lenny – bar beggining ; Matthew – bar beggining
Beach loss: Cold front – 54 m ; Lenny – 41 m ; Matthew – 40 m
Storm profile: +disspative
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
B
C
A
C
B
36. CONCLUSIONS
Bocagrande’s
morphodynamic is heavily
affected by extreme wave
events, losing large amounts
of sediment. This fact occurs
because waves in
Bocagrande tend to be more
energetic than in Costa
Verde, where wave height is
lower due to refraction and
diffraction effects when
approaching the coast.
Under extreme wave
conditions, beach loss in
Bocagrande could be critical
(+50 m) causing severe dune
erosion and floods, affecting
the community living by the
sea.
The own intermediate-
reflective nature of Costa
Verde’s beach profile provides
a shield for this area under
extreme wave events. A
significant portion of the wave
energy is dissipated through
breaking and the
morphological structure
remains stable. Beach loss for
Costa Verde cases is not
critical (+10 m).