Textile industry webinar: 28-Jun-2011


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BusinessVibes organized Textile webinars to showcase industry trends and growth updates from textile industry experts and chiefs at prominent associations at Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (TMMA), Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Associations (BGMEA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA) and Towel Manufacturers Associaiton of Pakistan

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Textile industry webinar: 28-Jun-2011

  1. 1. Textiles Webinar 28-06-2011
  2. 2. Table of Contents Briefing on Indian Textile Engineering Industry by Mr. Saktiprasad Chakrabarty, Secretary General of the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association Briefing on Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing: Bangladesh Perspective by Mr. Faruque Hassan,Vice President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association Briefing on Sustainable Technology for Modernisation by Mr. Ashok Desai, Director of Bombay Textile Research Association Briefing on the Free Trade Within The Subcontinent by Mr. Tahir Jahangir, Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan News on BusinessVibes
  3. 3. Indian Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) May 2011
  4. 4. TEI – An Overview The Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) in India is one of the five key engineering sectors  Consists of more than 1400 units, with a total investment of Rs.6,900 crores*  More than 80% of the units are SMEs*  Capacity is Rs. 8048 crore*  Provides direct/indirect employment to > 250,000 people* TEI contributes greatly to the competitiveness of the Indian Textile Industry (TI)  Meets 45-50% of the demand of the Indian textile industry** (Source: Textiles Committee Survey)
  5. 5. TEI – An Update Rs. CroreSource: TMMA, DGCIS 5
  6. 6. Demand & Production – Past and Projected 18000 70 15700 68 14900 16000 13300 57 56 55 60 60 14000 56 11000 48 10700 12000 50 49 9847 9577( Rs.Crore) 8900 10000 40 7526 7300 7258 8000 5000 6000 6000 6000 5515 5500 5000 4077 4332 6000 30 3863 3802 3663 3456 4000 20 2000 0 10 2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 Domestic Demand Met by domestic production Met by import % Share of demand met by domestic industry 6 Source : TMMA, DGCIS & Private sources.
  7. 7. WebinarTechnology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing: Bangladesh Perspective Faruque Hassan Vice President, BGMEA & Managing Director, Giant Group June 28, 2011
  8. 8. An Outlook of Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Sector Starting in the early 1980s, Bangladesh has become the 2nd largest apparel exporting country in the world in 2010 recording USD14.86 billion exports More than 5000 garment factories are operating in Bangladesh where 4 million people are employed, 80% female The share of garment export to national exports during the July 2010-May 2011 period stood 77.71% Garment export earning is around 13% of Bangladesh’s GDP During the July 2010-May 2011 period our garment exports totaled USD 15.96 billion registering a robust 43.18% growth compared to the corresponding period of last fiscal Export touched a record height ever in a single month in May 2011, USD 1.79 billion showing 50.55% growth. The primary textile sector meets up almost 90% raw material needs of knitwear exports and around 40% needs of the woven garment exports Bangladesh is the world’s second largest cotton importer, annual import is 4.75 million bale average Bangladesh produces almost 100 percent of the accessories needed by the export oriented garment industry Around 6 million people are employed in the Textile and Clothing sector altogether, 40 million people are directly and indirectly dependent on this sector Bangladesh enjoys duty free access to the European Union, Canada, Australia, Japan, Norway and Switzerland The modern factories have state-of-the-art machineries, international standard quality control process, good house keeping and social standards Almost all the globally renowned brands are sourcing from Bangladesh and a good number of them having liaison office in Dhaka The industry is growing at an annual average rate of 15%
  9. 9. Priority Areas of Technology Upgrade: Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Perspective Skill Development Widening the and Capacity application of IT Building for Product solutions catering to & Design the Textile & Development Clothing Industry Govt. Support for Waste Management Research & through Energy Development,Textile Efficient & Environment Efficient, & Clothing Park, Green, Favorable Taxation Friendly Technology Policy Clean and Sustainable Production
  10. 10. Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing SectorClean & Energy Efficient Production:Though the Textile & Clothing sector is underway of modernization, but the sector incurs a huge wastage in energy and resources. For example - the ratio of energy efficiency in the T&C sector is 40% and the wastage of water is around 15%-18%. Since fabric process requires to use huge chemical, water, electricity and energy this has an impact on the environment and nature. However, considering the worldwide growth in apparel consumption textile and clothing production has also to grow at per. But we have to be cautious about the adverse impact on environment and how to minimize the impact. We are campaigning to motivate the entrepreneurs on this spirit, which includes the following points: Use effluent treatment plant to re-treat the water and conserve the nature Use water treatment plant to feed clean water into the textile processing so that the use of chemical and energy can be minimized Use energy efficient machine and technology in case of boiler, iron, fans and blower , etc. The purpose built and low-risk energy efficient boilers may be placed Use low liquor ratio dying machine to optimize the use of water, energy and chemicals Replace the magnetic ballasts with electronic ballasts Replace the normal bulbs with energy saving CFL bulbs and use LED lights Replace the induction/class motors with Servo motors Steam trap maintenance & insulation of pipes Energy co-generationSkill Gap and Skill Development: The major productivity gap emerges from the skills shortages in the textile and clothing industry. The world textile & clothing market is growing and we have a 5% share of it only. So we have a huge scope of growth. Our entrepreneurs have that capability and dynamism to utilize this potential and our workers particularly females are one of the best workforce in the world for this industry. Such a growth projection clearly indicates the need for a huge skilled workers.
  11. 11. Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector The existing infrastructural facility is not adequate to supply required professional for the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh. The textile technologists available in Bangladesh is not adequate at present. So the government needs to scale up the technical and vocation training facilities for this sector to produce graduates and professionals for the textile and clothing sector. Apart from focusing on the conventional education, government needs to pay more attention on the technical side. BGMEA is running a number of training centers for developing skilled workers, and it is very encouraging that some of our esteemed buyers have also come forward to partner with us in this venture. We are pursuing the government to start large scale training facilities for this sector Particular focus has to be drawn in the area of developing expertise for product and design development to facilitate our progression to high value added segmentWidespread Application of IT Solutions Different machineries are used in Textile Industry for various departments like Blow room, Carding, Combing, Weaving, Bleaching, Testing, Finishing Produce diverse range of products in a specific delivery cycle Numerous end product variants created from relatively limited raw materials Machine Sequencing & Load Balancing complexities Long replenishment lead times for procured raw materials Multiple production scenarios in different locations and routing as the product needs to go to different places for different value addition So, the IT solution like CAD, PDM, POS, ERP, RFID need wider use in Textile and Clothing sectorTraining and Research & Development on the Textile and Clothing Sector: Favorable policy initiatives needed to support the technology up-gradation like India and Pakistan Promotion of Energy Conservation Technologies by the all related trade bodies. Needs to strengthen Research & Development for the Textile & Clothing sector
  12. 12. ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY Environmental Sustainability: the Ultimate Impact Respect for nature – Green-building, water recycling and using renewable energy has been getting increased attention among the entrepreneurs. BGMEA has been running several projects to promote energy efficiency in textile & garment factories. Sustainable use of resources – The textile & garment industry in Bangladesh have already gained significant progress in clean production. In order to bring all factories under this practice BGMEA runs projects like waste recycling. We are in the process of initiating a responsible sourcing program with the IFC-SEDF. It undertakes awareness program to upgrade technology for sustainable production. Safe to wear products – Most factories run their own textile testing labs which are accredited by large fashion retailers like H&M, Marks & Spencer, Puma, JC Penny, G Star, Tesco, Hugo Boss, Zara, etc. Tests are done as per various international standards like ISO/AATCC/BS/OEKO-TEX. Most of the companies have awards from big fashion retailers for good product & Quality. Skill Development - BGMEA established country’s first fashion institute called BGMEA INSTITUTE OF FASHION & TECHNOLOGY in 2000. The institute is aimed to cater mid- management professionals and fashion designers need for the garment industry BGMEA runs skilled development program jointly with the Government of Bangladesh to address the skill shortage. This institute is in the process of transformation into a fashion university. BGMEA runs productivity and quality improvement projects
  13. 13. The Bombay Textile Research Association Mumbai
  14. 14. GENESISBTRA was established in 1954 asresearch association under thesocieties registration act XXI of1860 to provide research andconsultancy support to IndianTextile Industry
  15. 15. MANDATETo undertake research and otherscientific work in connection withthe textile trade or industry andother trades or industries alliedtherewith or accessory thereto
  16. 16. MAIN ACTIVITIES Research Training Consultancy Testing
  17. 17. In-house Projects Training / R&D HRD Utilities / TechnologyConservation Transfer Quality & Decentralised Environment Government / Sector Management Financial Institutions
  18. 18. BTRA ACTIVITIESConsultancy in all aspects of textilesConsultancy in Technical TextilesConsultancy for ISO 9000 and ISO 17025Techno-economic Feasibility / Vetting related ReportsService on Valuation of Plants, Machinery and BuildingTesting ServicesConsultancy in Eco labelingServices to Decentralised Sector
  19. 19. Testing servicesBTRA Test Laboratories are accredited to ISO-17025 : 2005 standardsPhysical / Chemical properties – textiles, chemicals / dyestuffs, etc.Microbiological propertiesTechnical textiles / composites testingPolymer properties – certain unique and special test facilitiesEco-testingTesting as per GOTS / OEKO-TEXFlammability TestingSpecially designed tests for washing machine manufacturers, detergentmanufacturers, etc.
  20. 20. Testing Facilities for Nonwovens includingPolymer TestingX-ray diffraction (chart diffraction)FT-IR spectroscopyBirefringence measurementLight Microscope photographsScanning Electron Microscope photographsThermal analysis (by TGA, TMA, DSC)Melt Spinning experimentsGel Permeation Chromatography
  23. 23. Project : Plasma Technology for TextileProcessingA few Potential Plasma Applications for conventionaland technical Textiles• Improvement in hydrophilic/wetting properties of fibers like polyester, PP, PE etc.• Ease of removal of sizing material in desizing process• Improvement in the adhesion promotion• Hydrophobic/ water repellant finishing of textiles• Textile finishing : Anti-static, anti-bacterial, optical barrier coating, etc.
  24. 24. Advantages of Plasma Technology as eco-friendlyprocess : Environmental friendly technique Dry technique as no water is required Low energy consumption, Qualitative and full controllable process Operator friendly technique: no chemical products, gases, etc. No damage to the substrate and no change in bulk properties. Minimum waste disposal problems
  25. 25. Achievements in the Plasma Processing of TextilesWettability improvement Treatment of polyester, polyester/cotton samples with helium oxygen plasma for improved hydrophilicityFunctional finishing of textiles Functional finishing of 100% cotton, 100% polyester, and P/C blended fabrics with HMDSO to impart water repellent properties Functional finishing of cotton fabrics for oil repellency using fluorinated acrylates. Nylon and PET treatment with silane plasma
  26. 26. Achievements in the Plasma Processing of TextilesWater repellent cotton by plasma treatment UNTREATED COTTON HMDSO TREATED COTTON
  27. 27. Achievements in the Plasma Processing of TextilesDyeability Modification of cotton fabric with aminosilane plasma followed by dyeing with reactive dyes Improved dyeability of nylon by means of plasma activation followed by grafting
  28. 28. Project : Studies on Textiles doped withConducting Polymers Electroconductive Textiles  Smart Textiles- Capability to respond to the external environment agent in an appropriate manner Electrically conductive textiles-  Incorporation of Conductive polymers into textiles  Innovative way than the conventional methods  Retains all textile properties, yet work smartly through ability to conduct electricity  Projected to have broad impact in the fields of protective clothing, medical textiles, military, sports, consumer products
  29. 29. Chemical Polymerization of ICP s on Textile fabrics• Development of an Innovative Two step In-situ Chemical Polymerization of Intrinsically conductive polymers (ICP) on Textile Fabrics• Electrical Surface Resistivity can be achieved in the range of 10 – 108 Ω• Scaling up of the Process for large scale production is possible
  30. 30. Improvement in Atmospheric Stability of ICP coated Textiles• Resistance to Ageing of Polypyrrole coated Cotton fabrics was improved by the Incorporation of Sulfonic acid salts (e.g Naphthalene sulfonic acid- NSA) as doping agents• The reduction in atmospheric aging to the tune of 12-13 times was observed with the use of sulfonic acid dopants in addition to chloride dopants
  31. 31. Prototypes• Development of various prototypes for specific applications:  Smart Textiles  Resistive heating pads & garments  Fabric based hazardous Gas Sensor
  32. 32. Some of the Publications• Quality and Operational Benchmarks for modern spinning mills• Global challenge vis-à-vis performance levels of modern blended yarn / cotton spinning mills in India• Quality parameters for Home Textiles• Norms for Chemical Processing• Norms for Mechanical Processing (Weaving)• Steam Consumption Norms for Textile Process Houses• Developments in Processing of Knitted Fabric• Product catalogue on Technical Textiles
  34. 34.  The Towel Manufacturers’ Association of Pakistan was recognized by the Government of Pakistan on 9th August 1976 as “B” class Association with Head office at Karachi and two Circles viz., Northern (i.e. Punjab & NWFP) and Southern (i.e. Sind & Baluchistan) provinces with their offices at Lahore and Karachi respectively. Since then the Govt. of Pakistan has entrusted this Association with the job of management and distribution of Quota of Towels, Terry fabrics & other made- up to its members. Most of the Towel Manufacturing Units are members of this Association. The Association is also designated to issue Certificates of Origin under Article 11(2) of the International convention relating to the simplification of customs formalities, 1923 in respect of Towels exported to non-GSP countries from Pakistan vide SRO No. 903(1)1181 dated 10th August 1981. This Association to also issues certificates (T-2) for submission to that Bank for sanction of Business Travel Quota for countries other than India vide State Bank of Pakistan letter No. 8066/ECP.8(ii)-B-83 dated 31st October 1983.Association Description
  35. 35.  Move to a free trade regime progressively within the Subcontinent. This will bring out the best firms in the region - they will have a big market at their doorstep. The economies of scale and the access to each others know how and technology will help them grow stronger and take on the large firms worldwide much better. Big boon for the consumers of the sub continent. Imagine having the choice of buying the best or cheapest garments, sheets, fabrics, towels from the entire range presented by the subcontinent. Also imagine the diversity of design. It worked for the United States of America and then worked for the European Union, why not us? Given the current protectionist tendencies it is an idea that is difficult to stomach in one go. I would therefore go step by step. Once the first step succeeds and is seen to succeed and bring benefits to all concerned then it will be easier to take the second step. No sentiment in the entire European Union that wants the free trade arrangements reversed. They may complain of the common Euro and the financial burden of bailing out the weaker economies – but there is no one who wants the customs union to go.Policy Ideas of the Association
  36. 36.  Start with textiles and take the least sensitive items first. As the Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan I would like to offer free trade in all terry products and made up items. My proposal is to dismantle the current import duties placed on these items by each country to be abolished in the following manner: Year 1 – half the current import duties. Year 2 – further half the duty i.e. come to 25%. Year 3 – abolish all duties. If the basic idea appeals to a cross section of the industry then more segments could be approached for the phased duty reduction. Interested? Contact me at ceo@halaenterprises.comSuggestions
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