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Rmg 914 - week 4b

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Rmg 914 - week 4b

  1. 1. RMG 914 INTRODUCTIONTO LUXURY RETAIL Module 4 B
  2. 2. REPOSITIONING THE BRAND FIRST SECTION: EILEEN FISHER AND SECOND SESSION; DOVE ANALYSISTOOLS
  3. 3. EILEEN FISHER: REPOSITIONINGTHE BRANDReference information: -- Author: Anat Keinan, Fiona Wilson, Jill Avery & Michael L. Norton Published: N/A Reference No.: N/A
  4. 4. http://www.eileenfisher.com/
  5. 5. http://www.eileenfisher.com/
  6. 6. Company History • STARTED -1984 with $ 350 –could not sew and had never had fashion experience • Was trained as an interior designer/graphic designer • Determined there was a void for stylish yet comfortable clothes • Simple shapes, beautiful fabrics, color and proportions • Was coming off 80”s structured “women as men” suiting • Was not fond of lipstick, make up and high heels
  7. 7. • Fisher “sought to design fad-proof, but trend-relevant, timeless clothes that had an indefinite shelf life. “ • Designing for RealWomen regardless of figure shape/silhouette • Designed upon the “no fuss “ possibility- ways to integrate for every day wear that could be mixed and matched from season to season. • Fluid and Practical • First show – sold only 3,000 dollars worth • Second show- 40,000 dollars worth • Passion Pieces- emotional connections • By 2010- baby boomers ( 45-64) – 1/3 population and 25% of the womens apparel 200 billion market • Living Longer ( 79.6 life expectancy ) • Fifty is the new 40
  8. 8. Each season, the product line featured “passion pieces,” items that Fisher felt passionate about and that she felt reflected the spirit of the collection. Frank Gazetta, president of Macy’s North explained Fisher’s key role, “When the founder and designer is totally into a brand, it never loses the spirit it starts with.The roots of the concept are good, but a lot of it is Eileen…she is very involved with the brand and she knows what she wants the brand to be:The voice of Eileen is always there.”1
  9. 9. ■ Michael Gould, Chairman and CEO of Bloomingdale’s believed that EILEEN FISHER’s success was due to the fact that Fisher herself lived her customers’ lifestyles, “What is uniquely distinctive about EILEEN FISHER is the soul and heart of Eileen herself.The company consistently embodies Eileen’s beliefs, convictions, and lifestyle. She never deviates from her course, while always staying in tune with the changing times.”2
  10. 10. Jim Gundell, co-chief operating officer and facilitating leader, “Our relationship with our customer is our competitive advantage. We don’t look at what anybody else is doing … It’s important what we’re doing and it’s important how we’re building a relationship with our customers.” The company was populated with employees, many of whom had been there for decades, who embodied the brand’s ethos. Many customer-facing employees in the retail stores shared an age and a lifestyle with the EILEEN FISHER core customer. “It happened so naturally that we hired our customer.We look for a more holistic person, who loves our clothes and has outside passions and interests,” said Fisher.4 Gundell explained, “It’s almost a cult-like following.When our customer comes in, we’re friends with her, we’re connected to her, we know her name, we know her family …we just know so much about her.”This was key, claimed Pete Nordstrom, President, Merchandising, Nordstrom’s, Relationships with others
  11. 11. 1EILEEN FISHER Brand Statement At the heart of EILEEN FISHER is great design, ideas brought to life through clean lines, simple shapes, and sensual fabrics. Our design strives to balance the timeless with the modern, function with beauty. Ours is an organic system, always evolving, changing, building upon what’s come before. It’s a dialogue between seasonal perspectives and enduring ideals. Our values ground us in the essentials of design – simple, sensual, beautiful, timeless, functional.These values are threaded through every collection we create.They are where we started and where we will always start again. Our culture of design is born of passionate individuals. We inspire creativity, we translate the beauty of the unexpected into artful expression.Abandoning ourselves to the spirit of creative play, we encourage surprise and discovery, courage and vision, instinct and intuition.We instill confidence, we honor our voices, letting each one ring out as valid and valued. By supporting and nurturing each other, we find our individual strengths.We bring the love of self expression to our customers, instilling confidence through the beauty and performance of great design.We encourage connections.We each listen seeking to be surprised by what we don’t know, inspired to reach beyond the shadows we cast. From our nearest whispers to our most distant touches, we demonstrate singular action and collective impact and bear the essence of Eileen Fisher, a woman and a community. Beautifully simple clothing designed to move with real life. EILEEN FISHER. Brand Statement: Beautifully simple clothing designed to move with real life. DesignValues: Simple. Sensual. Beautiful.Timeless. Functional. CultureValues:We inspire creativity.We instill confidence.We cultivate connection. ServiceValues: Authentic. Inspiring.Collaborative. Intuitive. Inclusive.
  12. 12. Fisher’s belief was that if the product was right, business and profits would follow.The goal of having “our mission drive our business and our profitability foster our mission” was central. From inception, EILEEN FISHER was an organization with a strong social consciousness. Fisher wanted her business to make a social difference, “It’s not really about making clothes. Clothes are the vehicle for making substantive change in the world and even though we’re a smaller company, it’s through our partnerships that we can drive bigger change. Our business is a movement.”
  13. 13. Facts –There are 50 corporate stores in early 2000’s – of which 25% of sales come from- they are located within 16 states - E commerce is 12% of business – click to receive is 17% and click to open is over 52% - HR within stores are geared towards people who have an understanding of clothes and love people and are not based on usual retail parameters Fact- 478 dept. stores in the USA- including Bloomies, Nordstrom's, Macys and SFA - 315 Specialty Stores- -WHY ??The product sells and mostly at full price- it is a pillar brand- generally 1000 sq.ft.
  14. 14. Fact – 2008-2010-The Retail world fell apart- Heavy Discounting- and EF still thought of as Bridge- whereas competitors have fallen by wayside- Buchman and EllenTracy-TopTier turns out to be St John- Other Newer Competitors-Theory EllieTahari , 148 Lafayette, M Missoni,Tory Birch Fact - 25th Anniversary- average age level of client is 59 and keeps advancing by one year at a time- - Perception: MOMS BRAND –Larger silhouettes – general perception is “when you get to a percentage, you wear Eileen Fisher and it’s as if you have given up” Fact-The Canadian licensee was fired after 20 years and the company took over Canadian operations.They have opened an office at 21 Prince Arthur Avenue inToronto.
  15. 15. Fact – 2008-2010-The Retail world fell apart- Heavy Discounting- and EF still thought of as Bridge- whereas competitors have fallen by wayside- Buchman and EllenTracy- TopTier turns out to be St John- Other Newer Competitors-Theory EllieTahari , 148 Lafayette, M Missoni,Tory Birch Fact - 25th Anniversary- average age level of client is 59 and keeps advancing by one year at a time- - Perception: MOMS BRAND –Larger silhouettes – general perception is “when you get to a percentage, you wear Eileen Fisher and it’s as if you have given up” Fact-The Canadian licensee was fired after 20 years and the company took over Canadian operations.They have opened an office at 21 Prince Arthur Avenue in Toronto FACTS :
  16. 16. Hired IDEO- a leading design and innovation company to help clarify the vision to rebrand. -Definitions of age and attitudes needed to be defined and clarified- everybody and a different vision Of “young” or “attitude” . To do this the IDEO team handled in this way; 1.Spent time with the employees, 1 x 1, dinners, retail visits and shop a longs 2.Spent time speaking to the consumers- talking, shopping in their closets raiding with woman of a Variety of ages- individual interviews- group shopping- and just trying to understand women in everyday Life- both in and put of store situations 3.Current Customers and those who have never bought- 4.Aha Moments- “It looks like a sack” “Ads look very modern’’- MIXED MESSAGES - Existing Clients- “looking for more edginess and are swerving to other collections” Therefore Established that - Emerging “Nascent” - attitudes –life stages- shopping behaviors – brand Attitudes can be reflected in chart # 5 STITCH PROJECT 1. ShortTerm need to convey message of how the message of how the company had evolved to Dismantle negative perception and stereotypes 2.Transform IDEO offices to show Eileen Fisher mixed with other brands
  17. 17. • More body conscious Fit with relation to boxy jackets, cardigans and top pieces • Addition of metallic trims and more shine in fabrics • New more fashion driven pieces • New Art Direction –photography, edgier look- heels, red lipstick, boots …more edgy overall • Led to New Accessory Lines- belts, scarves • Store Make overs- more modern looking and more flexible to changes in product(6) • In-StoreVisuals (7) • Overall Advertising Strategy- use of models as opposed to previous relatable older clients etc. • Single Model in a Shot, not groups- • Attitudinal Shots • Media Strategy – drop publication that were spiritual, wellness and feel good publications • And added such publications asVOGUE, Style.com, Hulu • Web Site Redo- more video content in store and on site • Art Direction was Consistent • “Evolutionary vs Revolutionary “ • CHANGESTOTAKE PLACE
  18. 18. What happened to existing Customer; The overall trend was that the corporate stores- kept a good balance of new and traditional • ‘Still found enough to love” • Company started focusing on their expansion to Canada and the UK – could control the • Actual vision of the company • Lab stores • Outlet stores • Sub Brand- Eileen Fisher NewYork- more expensive and younger in styling within the same • Overall framework • Brand Extension; accessories-Accessories • Brand Licensing-Garnet Hill – Bedding and Bath
  19. 19. Dove: evolution of a brand ■ Reference information: -- Author: N/A Published: August 8th, 2014 ■ Reference No.: NSB – 9508 – 047
  20. 20. o Company embarked on a strategic project to develop a new brand expression o Set a new foundation for the future direction of the company o The project embarked on a brand repositioning
  21. 21. DOVE Dove: Evolution of a Brand In 2007, Unilever’s Dove was the world’s number one “cleansing” brand in the health and beauty sector with sales of over $2.5 billion a year in more than 80 countries. It competed in categories that included cleansing bars, body washes, hand washes, face care, hair care, deodorants, anti-perspirants and body lotions. It competed with brands like Procter andGamble’s Ivory, Kao’s Jergens and Beiersdorf’s Nivea. Dove had recently launched what it termed a Masterbrand campaign under the title ofThe Dove Campaign for Real Beauty. For some marketing observers the Campaign was an unqualified success, giving a single identity to the wide range of health and beauty products. But the vivid identity owed much to the Campaign’s use of the unruly, unmapped world of Internet media.1Were there risks to putting the ‘Real Beauty’ story out on media likeYouTube, where consumers were free to weigh in with opinion and dissent?On blogs and in newsletters, marketing commentators argued that Dove’s management was abdicating its responsibility to manage what was said about the brand, and was putting its multi-billion dollar asset at risk.2
  22. 22. Unilever • A leading global manufacturer of packaged consumergoods,Unilever operated in the food, home, and personal care sectors of the economy. • Eleven of its brands had annual revenues globally over $1 billion: Knorr, Surf, Lipton, Omo, Sunsilk, Dove, Blue Band, Lux, Hellmann’s, Becel and the • Heart logo,a visual identifier in ice cream. • Other brands included Pond’s, Suave,Vaseline, Axe, Snuggle, Bertolli, Ragu, Ben and Jerry’s, and Slim-Fast. With annual revenues of $50 billion, Unilever compared in size to Nestle ($69 billion), Procter and Gamble ($68 billion) and Kraft Foods ($34 billion )
  23. 23. ■ The 1957 launch advertising campaign for Dove was created by the Ogilvy and Mather ■ advertising agency.The message was “Dove soap doesn’t dry your skin because it’s one-quarter ■ cleansing cream,” and the claim was illustrated with photographs that showed cream being poured ■ into a tablet. In time there were minor ■ changes in slogan, for example the term ‘cleansing cream’ was replaced with ‘moisturizing cream,’ ■ but Dove stayed with the claim not to dry skin and the refusal to call itself a soap for over 40 years. ■ The advertising aspired to project honesty and authenticity, preferring to have natural-looking ■ women testifying to Dove’s benefits rather than stylized fashion models.
  24. 24. ■ Dove was tapped to become a Masterbrand in February 2000. In that role it was called on to lend ■ its name to Unilever entries into personal care categories beyond the beauty bar category, such as ■ deodorants, hair care products, facial cleansers, body lotions, and hair styling products.While much ■ of the advertising for these entrants spoke of functional benefits, communication to build the ■ Masterbrand needed to do something different—it had to establish a meaning for Dove that could ■ apply to and extend over the entire stable of products. No longer could Dove communicate just ■ functional superiority because functionality meant different things in different categories.Unilever
  25. 25. ■ brand director for Dove, led a world-wide investigation into women’s responses to the iconography ■ of the beauty industry, and unearthed deep discontent. “Young, white, blonde and thin” were the ■ almost universal characteristics of women portrayed in advertising and packaging, but for many ■ women these were unattainable standards and far from feeling inspired they felt taunted. ■ In the search for an alternative view of the goal of personal care, Unilever ■ tapped two experts. Nancy Etcoff was a Harvard University psychiatrist working at the Massachusetts General Hospital, author of the book, Survival of the Prettiest. Suzy Orbach was a London-based psychotherapist ■ best known for having treated Lady Diana Spencer and was the author of the book, Fat is a Feminist Issue. ■ Philippe Harousseau, vice president for brand development at Dove, explained, “Working ■ with psychologists was a real plus and the payoffs were enormous. By comparison, ■ focus groups would have just scratched the surface.” Unilever made some use of ■ surveys. It went to 3,000 women in 10countries and explored some of the hypotheses generated by the psychologists. Among the findings was the fact that only 2% of respondents worldwide chose to describe themselves as beautiful
  26. 26. ■ Informed by the research, Lagnado initiated the first exploratory advertising executions. She ■ hired British photographer John Rankin Waddell, an avant guarde fashion photographer well-known ■ for using ordinary people in supermodel contexts and for books of nudes featuring plain looking ■ models.The result was the so-calledTick-Box campaign. ■ In this campaign, billboards were erected and viewers were asked to phone 1- 888-342-DOVE to vote on whether a woman on the billboard was “outsized” or “outstanding.” A counter on the billboard showed the votes in ■ real time.The campaign attracted keen public interest as “outsized” first raced ahead and then fell back.
  27. 27. REAL BEAUTY The next series of Dove ads, in June 2005, were known internally as the Firming campaign because they promoted a cream that firmed the skin.They featured six “real” women cheerfully posing in plain white underwear. Dove marketing director for the United States, Kathy O’Brien, told the Press that the company wanted the ads to “change the way society views beauty,” and “provoke discussion and debate about real beauty.”
  28. 28. BRAND HERITAGEVS NEW REALITY ? “When you talk of real beauty do you lose the aspirational element? Are consumers going to be inspired to buy a brand that doesn’t promise to take you to a new level of attractiveness? Debunking the beauty myth brings with it the danger that you are debunking the whole reason to spend a little more money for the product.You’re setting yourself up to be an ordinary brand.” The next step in the campaign was particularly controversial. At a Dove leadership team offsite
  29. 29. ■ Stage four of the Real Beauty campaign involved not an advertisement, but a film. In Canada, the ■ Dove regional brand building team was running self esteem workshops for women, and theToronto ■ office of advertising agency Ogilvy and Mather developed a 112 ■ second film to drive traffic to the workshops.The North ■ American brand building team saw the film and decided it ■ deserved a wider audience.The resulting digital film was ■ known as “Evolution.” It showed the face of a young woman as ■ cosmetics, hair styling and Photoshop editing transformed it ■ from plainness to billboard glamour. Given its unusual length ■ television was not an option, and in October 2006 the film was ■ posted toYouTube, a popular video sharing website. Within ■ three months it had been viewed 3 million times.
  30. 30. DOVES MISSION STATEMENT Dove’s mission is to make more women feel beautiful every day by broadening the narrow definition of beauty and inspiring them to take great care of themselves. The mission statement’s purpose was summed up by Harousseau, If you are not crystal clear what the brand’s mission is, you cannot control what happens when people amplify it. Everyone working on Dove knows these words by heart. They know that the mission statement does not say Dove is about women feeling more beautiful, but that Dove is about more women feeling beautiful. Our notion of beauty is not elitist. It is celebratory, inclusive, and democratic.
  31. 31. Media Planning- Campaign for Real Beauty BLITZ OF Paid media-Grand Central campaign- creating Buzz Katie Couric-Today Show- July 14th Superbowl Ad- Oprah Show-YouTube videos Self Esteem issues, Anorexia, Father/Daughter complexities etc. Public Relations Unilever’s public relations strategy was an element, together with advertising, media planning, consumer promotions and customer marketing, in an integrated approach to marketing planning.
  32. 32. WALKTHETALK The final pillar of the plan was to “walk the talk.” Unilever established the global Dove Self- Esteem Fund to raise the self-esteem of girls and young women. In the United States, the fund supported uniquely ME!, a partnership with the Girl Scouts of the USA that helped build self confidence in girls aged 8 to 17 with educational resources and hands-on activities. Communications linked to campaignforrealbeauty.com, which invited visitors to learn more and share their views on a message forum, as well as to download tips and tools for developing self-esteem. “We knew we were well on our way to achieving our goals when the media began covering the media covering the campaign,” said Bright. On September 4, 2005, RobWalker of the NewYorkTimes Magazine wrote an essay entitled “Social Lubricant—How a marketing campaign became the catalyst for a societal debate.” In it, he remarked: “. . . the more intriguing fact is that it is a marketing campaign—not a political figure or a major news organization or even a film—that ‘opened a
  33. 33. BRAND BUILDING & DEVELOPMENT Brand Development took responsibility for developing the idea behind a brand, for innovation and for evolving the idea into the future. It was accountable for medium to long term market share, for brand health, for measures of innovativeness and for creating value in the category. It had responsibility for television advertising strategy, and for deciding which non-traditional media the brand should explore. It developed the brand plan. It was usually located in the region of the world in which the brand was strongest. Brand Building was replicated in each of Unilever’s major markets around the world. Managers in the brand building chain of command were charged with bringing the brand to life in their marketplace.They were accountable for growth, profit, cash flow and short-term market share. Working within the mission inherited from brand development, they had the freedom to use imagination to break through their particular market’s media clutter. They managed public relations and informal communications, and made decisions on what level of spending to put behind the media advertising campaigns that they received from brand development. Brand builders reported to a general manager for a collection of brands, who in turn reported to a country or region manager.
  34. 34. o Unilever’s Dove was the world’s number one “cleansing” brand in the health and beauty sector o Sales of over $2.5 billion a year o Operates in over 80 countries o Launched Real Ads byWomen in late 2006 o Link: o http://www.ardiansyahzein.com/SEMESTER%201/MARKETING%20MANAGEME NT/CASE%20STUDY/Dove%20Evolution%20of%20brand.pdf

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