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See Now, Buy Now, Print Now: How 3D Printing is Transforming the Fashion Industry

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See Now, Buy Now, Print Now: How 3D Printing is Transforming the Fashion Industry

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3D printing is growing in popularity, but how will it impact the fashion industry? In this presentation delivered to the Hong Kong Productivity Council, I share my thoughts on how 3DP and AM (additive manufacturing) are transforming all aspects of fashion, from the way designers prototype to the ways garments actually are manufactured. In this presentation, I provide an overview of additive manufacturing today and then look at examples from popular culture to show how the technology is making its way into mainstream consciousness. I explore some 3DP fashion pioneers, including Iris Van Herpen, Anouk Wipprecht, Danit Peleg, Behnaz Farahi, Neri Oxman, and more to highlight both the possibilities and limitations of this new medium. Aside from costume and concept pieces, 3D printing is actually being used for commercial products. As such, I look at how the technology is appearing in consumer products in fashion and beauty. I illustrate the fashion opportunity for 3DP—mainly, the ability to produce custom products on demand in micro-factories closer to home, as well as regard some of the very real challenges facing designers. I close by looking into the future of 3DP for fashion, arguing that just as the spacesuits of astronauts enabled humankind to explore new environments, the 3DP fashions of the future will push us into a new kind of existence.

3D printing is growing in popularity, but how will it impact the fashion industry? In this presentation delivered to the Hong Kong Productivity Council, I share my thoughts on how 3DP and AM (additive manufacturing) are transforming all aspects of fashion, from the way designers prototype to the ways garments actually are manufactured. In this presentation, I provide an overview of additive manufacturing today and then look at examples from popular culture to show how the technology is making its way into mainstream consciousness. I explore some 3DP fashion pioneers, including Iris Van Herpen, Anouk Wipprecht, Danit Peleg, Behnaz Farahi, Neri Oxman, and more to highlight both the possibilities and limitations of this new medium. Aside from costume and concept pieces, 3D printing is actually being used for commercial products. As such, I look at how the technology is appearing in consumer products in fashion and beauty. I illustrate the fashion opportunity for 3DP—mainly, the ability to produce custom products on demand in micro-factories closer to home, as well as regard some of the very real challenges facing designers. I close by looking into the future of 3DP for fashion, arguing that just as the spacesuits of astronauts enabled humankind to explore new environments, the 3DP fashions of the future will push us into a new kind of existence.

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See Now, Buy Now, Print Now: How 3D Printing is Transforming the Fashion Industry

  1. 1. PRESENTED BY @AMANDACOSCO See Now, Buy Now Print Now: How 3DP is Transforming the Fashion Industry
  2. 2. IRIS VAN HERPEN VOLTAGE COLLECTION, JANUARY 2013
  3. 3. JULIA KOERNER
  4. 4. Sacred Geomatry
  5. 5. FASHION-TECH JOURNALIST & FOUNDER OF ELECTRIC RUNWAY Introduction
  6. 6. Illuminating the future of fashion, retail, and consumer product innovation WHERE FASHION MEETS TECHNOLOGY Electric Runway
  7. 7. Presentation Overview THINGS I'LL COVER My thesis AM & 3D Printing Overview 3DP Fashion Pioneers Commercial Ventures The Fashion Opportunity • Challenges • Future Visioning • Contact
  8. 8. 3D Printing (3DP) & Additive Manufacturing (AM) are already radically transforming many aspects of the fashion industry My thesis (PART 1)
  9. 9. New materials never before used to make clothing are making their way onto the body via 3DP clothing and textiles Materials Print-on-demand at home or close to home The rise of 3DP micro- factories and makerspaces Third-party suppliers and strategic partners s/a Stratasys, Autodesk, etc Manufacturing Direct-to consumer enterprises that focus on mass-customization  Business Models ARESOFIMPACT 3DP has expanded a traditional fashion designer's toolkit  Consumers become collaborative designers via customization options   Design
  10. 10. Is fashion software?
  11. 11. Considerations FASHIONVSCLOTHING Styles Trends Influencers Celebrities Fashion Garments Apparel Textiles Animal skins Clothing
  12. 12. GAMERS TRADE V-BUCKS FOR OUTFITS IN FORTNITE
  13. 13. MATTER IS MEDIA. COMPRESSIBLE, SHAREABLE & HACKABLE; MATERIAL PROPERTIES ARE ALSO CONSTRUCTS OF INFORMATION AND CAN BE SOFTWARE DRIVEN ~ Francis Bitonti
  14. 14. The Limitations of 3D Printing point to where innovation is most needed in the fashion industry My thesis (PART 2)
  15. 15. AM & 3D Printing Overview
  16. 16. ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY GROWTH Figures are in millions of dollars. Source: Wohlers Report 2019 0 2,500 5,000 7,500 10,000 2018 2017 2016 AM Grew 62% over the past two years
  17. 17. USA 35.3% Other 22.3% China 10.6% Japan 9.2% Germany 8.3% UK 4% Korea 3.9% Italy 3.3% France 3.1% CUMULATIVE INSTALLATIONS FROM 1988 THROUGH 2018. The U.S. is believed to be home to more than one-third of all industrial AM systems.
  18. 18. SALES OF MATERIALS FOR POLYMER POWDER BED FUSION WERE AT AN ALL- TIME HIGH IN 2018 Figures are in millions of dollars. Source: Wohlers Report 2019 3D- Printing 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 400 300 200 100 0
  19. 19. There's tremendous growth and experimentation taking place
  20. 20. BLACK PANTHER COSTUME DESIGNER RUTH E CARTER EVIDENCE FROMPOP CULTURE
  21. 21. MET GALA 2019 DESIGNER ZAC POSEN
  22. 22. Zac Posen x GE Additive x Protolabs rose gown featuring 21 unique 3D printed petals. Jourdan Dunn
  23. 23. GENERAL ELECTRIC / TWITTER
  24. 24. EVIDENCE FROM THE RUNWAY THREEASFOUR 3D PRINTED DRESS 2016
  25. 25. VICTORIA SECRET RUNWAY SHOW BRADLEY ROTHENBERG
  26. 26. 3DP Fashion Pioneers
  27. 27. CONTINUUM FASHION 3DP SWIMSUIT Mary Haung
  28. 28. A TEXTILE FACTORY IN A BOX Electroloom
  29. 29. 3DP DRESS FOR DITA VON TEESE Francis Bitonti
  30. 30. HAND-DRAWN USING A 3DOODLER PEN Maartje Dijkstra
  31. 31. ROBOTIC COUTURE Anouk Wipprecht
  32. 32. DAREDROID DRESS BY ANOUK WIPPRECHT
  33. 33. CARESS OF THE GAZE Behnaz Farahi
  34. 34. CARESS OF THE GAZE BY BEHNAZ FARAHI
  35. 35. CARESS OF THE GAZE BY BEHNAZ FARAHI
  36. 36. FIRST FASHION COLLECTION 3D PRINTED AT HOME Danit Peleg
  37. 37. DANITPELEGTHEBIRTHOFVENUS
  38. 38. DANITPELEGTHEBIRTHOFVENUS
  39. 39. 4D-PRINTED DRESS Nervous System
  40. 40. BEEING HUMAN Jamela Law
  41. 41. VORTEX DRESS Laura Thapthimkuna
  42. 42. ASIA'S FIRST 3D- PRINTED FASHION SHOW Melinda Looi
  43. 43. MELINDALOOI
  44. 44. BIOLOGY MEETS DESGIN Neri Oxman
  45. 45. NERIOXMAN
  46. 46. Commercial Ventures
  47. 47. DESIGN YOUR OWN 3DP JACKET Danit Peleg
  48. 48. 3D-PRINTED MASCARA "LE VOLUMEREVOLUTION" Chanel
  49. 49. 3D-PRINTING KNIT SHOP Ministry of Supply
  50. 50. CUSTOM-FIT FOOTWEAR Wivv Wearables
  51. 51. WHOLEGARMENT TECHNOLOGY Fast Retailing X Shima Seiki
  52. 52. FRENCH GLASSES 3D PRINTED Octobre 71
  53. 53. VARIOUS DESIGNERS 3DP Jewellry
  54. 54. EXOBIOLOGY COLLECTION Ica & Kostika
  55. 55. Footwear will be first!
  56. 56. Combines 3DP with ocean plasticwaste ADIDAS FUTURECRAFT4D SNEAKERS, 3D Printed Custom Ergonomics NEW BALANCE X NERVOUS SYSTEM
  57. 57. The Fashion Opportunity for 3DP
  58. 58. New manufacturing methods and materials mean new styles, designs, and even new business models, like print- on-demand microfactories Innovation 3DP is already additive (not subtractive). Think of the possibilities when you consider turning waste into new objects Waste Reduction 3DP items can more easily be personalized based on consumer preference Personalization Items can be tailor-made to fit the customer's body Customization THEFASHION OPPORTUNITYFOR3DP
  59. 59. Innovation Rethinking what our clothes can do Re-envisioning what our clothes are made of and how they're made Faster visualization and prototyping
  60. 60. Waste Reduction Turn old designs into new ones Refill: 90% recycled made from recycled bottles Recyclable Filaments Unlike cut and sew operations, you're only creating what's needed  AM is Additive, not Subtractive Print only what's needed or what's ordered, not what you hope or project to sell Print-on-Demand
  61. 61. Personalization "New technologies such as robotics and 3D printing may enable companies to deal with these time pressures and offer customers greater personalization at the same time" ~ BoF Bawsome X Materialise
  62. 62. Customization 123
  63. 63. Challenges
  64. 64. "[3D PRINTING] TECHNOLOGY IS LIMITED AT THE MOMENT TO THE CREATION OF WORKS OF FANTASY" ~ Michael Schmidt, Designer
  65. 65. "LIMITATIONS AT THIS TIME FOR 3DP INCLUDE THE SIZE OF THE PRINTER, THE MATERIAL, THE TIME AND THE COST" ~ Danit Peleg, 3D-Printed Fashion Designer
  66. 66. “WE ARE HUNGRY FOR THE NEW TECHNOLOGY [....] I FEEL LIKE THERE IS THIS TREMENDOUS OPPORTUNITY AWAITING.” ~ Gabi Asfour, Designer
  67. 67. Future Visioning
  68. 68. Designs will be Downloaded AND PRINTED AT HOME OR AT A LOCAL MAKERSPACE
  69. 69. Consumer- Driven Design CONSUMERS COLLABORATE WITH MACHINES AND SERVICES TO GET EXACTLY WHAT THEY WANT
  70. 70. The rise of Microfactories HIGH SPEED, AGILE GARMENT PRODUCTION = HIGH CUSTOMIZATION AND ZERO WASTE
  71. 71. Mass Customization "FASHION IS SEEING THE START OF A SEISMIC SHIFT WHERE PRODUCTS ARE “PULLED” INTO THE MARKET BASED ON ACTUAL DEMAND RATHER THAN “PUSHED” BASED ON BEST- GUESSES AND FORECASTS" ~ BOF
  72. 72. Reshoring/ Nearshoring IN SOME NEARSHORE MARKETS, THE GAP BETWEEN NEARSHORE AND OFFSHORE LABOUR COSTS HAS DISAPPEARED:
  73. 73. New textiles NASA 3DP "SPACE FABRIC"
  74. 74. NERI OXMAN 2014
  75. 75. Just as we change our clothing, our clothing changes us
  76. 76. LET'S TALK NERDY Contact electricrunway.com Website Email @Electric_Runway Social Media amanda@electricrunway.com

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