The Lemond Method
Measure from the top of the book to the floor.
Frame size Formula
Inseam(cm) x 0.67
Saddle height Formula
Inseam(cm) x 0.883
The Heel Method
1. Turn the cranks until they line up parallel with
the seat tube of the frame.
2. Position the center of the heel directly over the
center of the pedal axle.
3. Adjust the seat height up or down until the leg
appears fully extended.
Upper Body Position
Head Stem Height
A guideline is that the top of your head stem should be
5 – 10cm below the top of your seat.
Head Stem Length
Drop a plumb line from the tip of your nose.
The line should fall directly through or within 1 – 2cm
behind the centre of the point where the handlebars
connect to the stem.
Taking your elbow and lean it against the
front of your saddle.
Your middle finger should be touching the
middle of your steer tube exactly.
Put your armpit on the saddle and make
sure your middle finger is exactly touching
the top of the bottom bracket.
From the top of the headtube to the top of the
steertube there should be 3 fingers of space.
Reach your thumb so that it’s at 90 degrees to
your index finger.
Your middle finger should reach exactly to the
end of your.
1. Open the quick release on the rear brake, so the brake pads are out of the
way and will let the wheel release
2. Start by shifting the chain to the smallest cog on the rear cassette and the
largest chainring at the cranks. This will move the chain and rear derailleur
to the furthest outside position, so they are out of the way.
3. Open the rear wheel quick release, then pull the derailleur back and
push the wheel forward until the wheel drops away from the frame.
1.To reinstall your rear wheel, start by draping the top of the chain over the
smallest cog on the cassette.
2.Next, pull the wheel back up into your frame’s rear dropouts.
Now check to make sure that your wheel is fully seated in the drop outs and
that it is centered between the chain stays and seat stays. Adjust if
2. Finally, flip the quick release lever back into its secure place, making sure
you feel resistance starting at the halfway point.
Remember to rotate the lever to the rear of the bike, to keep it out of the way
when you are riding.
3. Close the quick release on the rear brake and take a spin.
Step 1: Let any remaining air out of tire to make tire removal easier.
Step 2: Use two tire levers to help you to pry the tire bead away from the rim.
Step 3: Remove flat inner tube from tire.
Step 4: Pull out valve stem from the rim. Check tire for glass, wire, thorns, etc.
Step 5: Slide new valve stem through hole in rim.
Step 6: Begin re-installing your tire at the valve stem.
CAUTION: Do not pinch tube.
Step 7: Be sure entire tube is safely tucked inside your tire.
Step 8: Begin replacing the tire bead onto the rim.
CAUTION: Don't pinch your tube!
Step 9: Install the threaded washer.
Step 10: Inflate your tire using the hand pump.
Step 1 - Install the splined lockring tool so that it is fully seated into the notches.
Step 2 - Install the chain whip.
Step 3 -Use a large crescent to turn the lockring tool counter clockwise while pulling
the chain whip clock wise to hold the cassette/freehub in place.
Step 4 - Unthread the lockring and set aside. Slide the cogs up and off of the
freehub, taking note of where each spacer sits, and lay them out on the
workbench in a safe spot.
Step 5 - Now is a great time to give the cogs and freehub body a proper cleaning.
Step 6 - Take note of the freehub’s splines and the notches on the cogs before
Step 7 - Align the cogs correctly and slide them down onto the freehub body, being
careful to install everything in the exact order required – spacers included.
Step 8 - Make sure that the last cog is properly aligned before pressing it down with
one hand while threading the lockring clockwise with the other until it is snug.
Step 9 - Take a close look to make sure that the cassette is spaced evenly before
using a wrench to fully tighten the lockring.
Step 10 - Finish tightening the lockring by using a crescent wrench to turn it
clockwise until it is quite snug
To replace the pad
1.Remove brake pad retainer with
an Allen wrench as shown.
2.Slide the pad out.
3.Slide a new pad in and tighten
To align brake pads
1.Loosen the 5 mm Allen bolt on
2. Align the pad with the braking
3. Retighten the Allen bolt.
Centering the brakes.
1.Gently pulling the brake lever until
one or both of the pads touches
the braking surface.
2.If they do not touch at the same
time, they can be easily adjusted
by simply turning the adjustment
Adjusting brake lever travel. The distance
you pull the brake lever in is really a
personal preference. However, we
generally recommend a distance of half
way to the handlebar. If you have to pull
the brakes in too far toward the handlebar
you can adjust it using the following
First, loosen the Cable Pinch Bolt just so
the cable can slide through without
Next, squeeze both sides of the
caliper until the pads are nearly
touching the rim. As you do this the
brake cable will slide through the
fixing bolt. Tighten the fixing bolt
securely against the cable and
release the caliper.
Minor adjustments can then be
made to move the brake shoes in
or out as necessary which also
modifies the brake lever travel.
This is done by turning the barrel
adjuster. Turn it clockwise and
counterclockwise until the brake
lever travel is about half the
distance to the handlebar.
Shimano brakes have a feature
which allows you to easily remove
your wheel without making any
permanent brake adjustments.
Simply move the quick-release
mechanism to the upright position
and your brakes will spread out
enough that you will be able to
remove your wheel. After you
replace the wheel be sure to move
the quick-release mechanism back
into the closed position.
•Stand behind the bike and look at the rear derailleur.
•Are the pulleys in line with smallest cog on the cassette?
• If not, adjust the high-range setting on your derailleur. This will be a
small screw labeled with an "H."
•Turn the screw until the pulleys are aligned with the smallest cog.
•Turning the screw clockwise will move the pulleys to the left, and vice
Thread the rear shifter cable through the anchor bolt on your bike's rear
Ensure that the cable has full slack, by shifting into the smallest rear cog.
Secure the cable in place, pulling it tight with your pliers and tightening the bolt
with a hex wrench.
Try shifting into the next-largest cog.
Does the chain move over to the cog?
If not, twist the barrel adjuster on the back of the derailleur a fraction
Continue to twist the barrel adjuster until your bike's chain sits cleanly on the
•Shift the chain all the way to your bike's largest rear cog.
•If the chain overshoots the cog, adjust the low-range setting.
•The screw will be marked with an "L" and will be located beside or
above the high-range screw.
•Turn the screw clockwise to move the pulleys to the right.
Shift to the smallest front chainring, ensuring that there is maximum slack in
the front shifter cable.
Adjust the low-range setting for the front derailleur. Is there no more
than 2 mm between the inner derailleur plate and the chain? To lessen the gap,
turn the low-range screw clockwise.
Attach the shifter cable to the anchor bolt above your bike's front derailleur,
pulling it tight, and tighten the bolt.
Try shifting now to the large chainring.
If the chain does not carry over, turn the barrel adjuster on the front shifter
cable clockwise, until the chain moves with relative ease to the large
Check the gap between the outer derailleur plate and the chain. Again, there
should be no more than 2 mm between the two. To reduce the gap, turn the
high-range screw to the right.