Bike maintainance level 1


Published on

  • Be the first to comment

No Downloads
Total views
On SlideShare
From Embeds
Number of Embeds
Embeds 0
No embeds

No notes for slide

Bike maintainance level 1

  2. 2. Items Covered 1.Bike Anatomy 2.Bike Sizing 3.Bike Fitting 4.Wheel Removal & Installation 5.Fixing a flat tire 6.Cassette Removal & Installation 7.Brake maintainance 8.Front & Rear derailleur indexing
  4. 4. How to measure your road bike size ?
  5. 5. The Lemond Method Measure from the top of the book to the floor.
  6. 6. Calculation Method Frame size Formula Inseam(cm) x 0.67 Saddle height Formula Inseam(cm) x 0.883
  7. 7. The Heel Method 1. Turn the cranks until they line up parallel with the seat tube of the frame. 2. Position the center of the heel directly over the center of the pedal axle. 3. Adjust the seat height up or down until the leg appears fully extended.
  8. 8. Knee Over Pedal Spindle (KOPS) Positioning
  9. 9. Upper Body Position Head Stem Height A guideline is that the top of your head stem should be 5 – 10cm below the top of your seat. Head Stem Length Drop a plumb line from the tip of your nose. The line should fall directly through or within 1 – 2cm behind the centre of the point where the handlebars connect to the stem.
  10. 10. SADDLE TILT
  11. 11. Saddle-to-Stem Distance Taking your elbow and lean it against the front of your saddle. Your middle finger should be touching the middle of your steer tube exactly.
  12. 12. Saddle Height Put your armpit on the saddle and make sure your middle finger is exactly touching the top of the bottom bracket.
  13. 13. Stem Height From the top of the headtube to the top of the steertube there should be 3 fingers of space.
  14. 14. Stem Length Reach your thumb so that it’s at 90 degrees to your index finger. Your middle finger should reach exactly to the end of your.
  15. 15. Removal 1. Open the quick release on the rear brake, so the brake pads are out of the way and will let the wheel release 2. Start by shifting the chain to the smallest cog on the rear cassette and the largest chainring at the cranks. This will move the chain and rear derailleur to the furthest outside position, so they are out of the way.
  16. 16. 3. Open the rear wheel quick release, then pull the derailleur back and push the wheel forward until the wheel drops away from the frame.
  17. 17. Installation 1.To reinstall your rear wheel, start by draping the top of the chain over the smallest cog on the cassette. 2.Next, pull the wheel back up into your frame’s rear dropouts. Now check to make sure that your wheel is fully seated in the drop outs and that it is centered between the chain stays and seat stays. Adjust if necessary.
  18. 18. 2. Finally, flip the quick release lever back into its secure place, making sure you feel resistance starting at the halfway point. Remember to rotate the lever to the rear of the bike, to keep it out of the way when you are riding. 3. Close the quick release on the rear brake and take a spin.
  19. 19. Step 1: Let any remaining air out of tire to make tire removal easier. Step 2: Use two tire levers to help you to pry the tire bead away from the rim.
  20. 20. Step 3: Remove flat inner tube from tire. Step 4: Pull out valve stem from the rim. Check tire for glass, wire, thorns, etc.
  21. 21. Step 5: Slide new valve stem through hole in rim. Step 6: Begin re-installing your tire at the valve stem. CAUTION: Do not pinch tube.
  22. 22. Step 7: Be sure entire tube is safely tucked inside your tire. Step 8: Begin replacing the tire bead onto the rim. CAUTION: Don't pinch your tube!
  23. 23. Step 9: Install the threaded washer. Step 10: Inflate your tire using the hand pump.
  24. 24. Removing & Installing a Bicycle Cassette
  25. 25. Step 1 - Install the splined lockring tool so that it is fully seated into the notches. Step 2 - Install the chain whip.
  26. 26. Step 3 -Use a large crescent to turn the lockring tool counter clockwise while pulling the chain whip clock wise to hold the cassette/freehub in place. Step 4 - Unthread the lockring and set aside. Slide the cogs up and off of the freehub, taking note of where each spacer sits, and lay them out on the workbench in a safe spot.
  27. 27. Step 5 - Now is a great time to give the cogs and freehub body a proper cleaning. Step 6 - Take note of the freehub’s splines and the notches on the cogs before reinstallation.
  28. 28. Step 7 - Align the cogs correctly and slide them down onto the freehub body, being careful to install everything in the exact order required – spacers included. Step 8 - Make sure that the last cog is properly aligned before pressing it down with one hand while threading the lockring clockwise with the other until it is snug.
  29. 29. Step 9 - Take a close look to make sure that the cassette is spaced evenly before using a wrench to fully tighten the lockring. Step 10 - Finish tightening the lockring by using a crescent wrench to turn it clockwise until it is quite snug
  30. 30. To replace the pad 1.Remove brake pad retainer with an Allen wrench as shown. 2.Slide the pad out. 3.Slide a new pad in and tighten the retainer. To align brake pads 1.Loosen the 5 mm Allen bolt on the pad. 2. Align the pad with the braking surface. 3. Retighten the Allen bolt.
  31. 31. Centering the brakes. 1.Gently pulling the brake lever until one or both of the pads touches the braking surface. 2.If they do not touch at the same time, they can be easily adjusted by simply turning the adjustment screw.
  32. 32. Adjusting brake lever travel. The distance you pull the brake lever in is really a personal preference. However, we generally recommend a distance of half way to the handlebar. If you have to pull the brakes in too far toward the handlebar you can adjust it using the following procedure. First, loosen the Cable Pinch Bolt just so the cable can slide through without restriction.
  33. 33. Next, squeeze both sides of the caliper until the pads are nearly touching the rim. As you do this the brake cable will slide through the fixing bolt. Tighten the fixing bolt securely against the cable and release the caliper. Minor adjustments can then be made to move the brake shoes in or out as necessary which also modifies the brake lever travel. This is done by turning the barrel adjuster. Turn it clockwise and counterclockwise until the brake lever travel is about half the distance to the handlebar.
  34. 34. Quick-release mechanism. Shimano brakes have a feature which allows you to easily remove your wheel without making any permanent brake adjustments. Simply move the quick-release mechanism to the upright position and your brakes will spread out enough that you will be able to remove your wheel. After you replace the wheel be sure to move the quick-release mechanism back into the closed position.
  35. 35. How to Set Up Bike Gears
  36. 36. RD Step 1 •Stand behind the bike and look at the rear derailleur. •Are the pulleys in line with smallest cog on the cassette? • If not, adjust the high-range setting on your derailleur. This will be a small screw labeled with an "H." •Turn the screw until the pulleys are aligned with the smallest cog. •Turning the screw clockwise will move the pulleys to the left, and vice versa.
  37. 37. • • • • • • • Step 2 Thread the rear shifter cable through the anchor bolt on your bike's rear derailleur. Ensure that the cable has full slack, by shifting into the smallest rear cog. Secure the cable in place, pulling it tight with your pliers and tightening the bolt with a hex wrench. Step 3 Try shifting into the next-largest cog. Does the chain move over to the cog? If not, twist the barrel adjuster on the back of the derailleur a fraction counterclockwise. Continue to twist the barrel adjuster until your bike's chain sits cleanly on the next cog.
  38. 38. Step 4 •Shift the chain all the way to your bike's largest rear cog. •If the chain overshoots the cog, adjust the low-range setting. •The screw will be marked with an "L" and will be located beside or above the high-range screw. •Turn the screw clockwise to move the pulleys to the right.
  39. 39. FD Step 1 Shift to the smallest front chainring, ensuring that there is maximum slack in the front shifter cable.
  40. 40. Step 2 Adjust the low-range setting for the front derailleur. Is there no more than 2 mm between the inner derailleur plate and the chain? To lessen the gap, turn the low-range screw clockwise.
  41. 41. Step 3 Attach the shifter cable to the anchor bolt above your bike's front derailleur, pulling it tight, and tighten the bolt. Try shifting now to the large chainring. If the chain does not carry over, turn the barrel adjuster on the front shifter cable clockwise, until the chain moves with relative ease to the large chainring.
  42. 42. Step 4 Check the gap between the outer derailleur plate and the chain. Again, there should be no more than 2 mm between the two. To reduce the gap, turn the high-range screw to the right.