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Parsons The New School for Design, NewYork, October 2012From open source brandingto collaborative clothingZoe Romano@zoescope@openwear_cc
PRECARITYis a term of everyday usage asPrecariedad, Precariedade, Précarité, orPrecarietàin a number of European countries.It refers to the widespread condition oftemporary, flexible, contingent, casual,intermittent workin postindustrial societies.
What happens in MilanoMilano is the city in Italy with thelowest unemployment rateMost of young people work intwo main sectors- SERVICE SECTOR- CREATIVE SECTOR
Service IndustryCall CenterChainstoresPubsCatering/FairsHostess...“Shit job”
6“I’m a designer but I paymy rent working in a callcenter.”“Im a journalist and I workin a pub to pay my bills”“I earn 800 a month, work10 hours a day. It’s fun andthe money is enough.Ah, by the way... I livewith my parents.”
Main ChallengesHow can we- talk to the network of atomized workers- challenge the institutional actors (companies, chamber of fashion)- become visible in the mainstreamcommunicationduring the main fashion eventin Italy?
Precarity in the Fashion System‣freelance‣micro-enterprises‣temp workers‣internsSERPICA NAROis the anagram ofSAN PRECARIO
L’azioneOperation: Serpica NaroCreation of thevirtual subjectActivation of itsantagonistChannel ofcommunicationwww.Settimanadellamoda.itSan PrecarioVS Serpica NaroEntering OfﬁcialCalendar of Fashion Week
Sometimes Fake means being more real than real
Sometimes Fake means being more real than realQ: You said that you design the design,what does that mean?A: I design everything, when I wake up or when Isleep. It is a sort of perfectionism, I suppose. Evenpeople who work for me need to let themselves bedesigned, there is no way around it. Design is nolonger just the making of clothes, or products, eventhe creation of lifestyles is already outdated, notnearly enough.Today we create our own universes.
Oh! We have a TrademarkBrand built to appealValuesCultural mix - Controversy -ElitisticBrand as symbolic apparatus togather relations towardconsumer cultureBrand expressing who is nurturing itValuesSharing - Social innovation - Flexicuritynot precarity - Alternative economiesBrand as tool to promotenew values in society
What to do nextThe brand creates value - how can we re-destribute it?Over-production of creative workers - Which alternative can we build?We lost skills - What’s the real value of garments?
Johanna Blakley‣ Trademark Protection‣ Induced ObsolescenceNegative externalities:work and environment2010
The Fashion System: a polarizationBig Brands Fast Fashion
A new trend: the rise of DIY and themakers scene
A brand made o empower a network of small producers and promote a different kind offashion based on collaboration, sharing, short supply chain and else.
A Metabrand is not a CertiﬁcationA Metabrand is a bottom-up brand created buy apeer-reviewed network of small creators andconsumers who produce value for the brand and beneﬁtfrom it at the same time
EDUfashion network was formed by: Poper (Slovenia), Ethical Economy(UK), Università Statale Milano (IT), Copenhagen Business School (DM),Fashion University (Slovenia)★ Research on the Open Design and p2p fashion★ Prototyping the community in 20102009 Let’s go EU application
★ Building and online and ofﬂine community to share knowledge, ﬁndsupport and collaborators to deﬁne a new model for crafts.3 shared resources
★ A series of Collaborative collection with an open-source brand★ Prototypes freely downloadable which members can produce and sell, beneﬁting from the socialinnovation created within the community.
Openwear is an open-source brand★ A collective brand made open-source by a license★ The pattern and the logo become a common of the communityhttp://vimeo.com/16541497
Key point of experimentation• Define the networked artisan as a new workerfashion designer ------->networked artisan<------------ crafter/artisan(highly immaterial) (highly material)• Brand Open Source Copyright (Creative Commons License, GPL, etc.),• Manufacturing becomes a distributed process (makers/manufacturers)• Copy as a legitimate resource Fashion doesn’t protect the technical specification ofthe garments.• The online community as a new Public Space• Enterprise goes social: Social goals are primary, business is a way to achieve them
• Seasonal collection• Single supply purchase• Selling in shops• Building a fashionhouse• University training• Catalogue of itemswith no expiration date• Group Purchase• Online and ofﬂinecollective shop• Creating a mix of skills(to teach, work incollaborative projects)• Continuous andinformal trainingYESTERDAY TODAY AND TOMORROW