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Natural based hair conditioning

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  • 1. hair care Industry perspective SYBILLE CORNELSEN, ANSGAR BEHLER, HANS-MARTIN HAAKE BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH, Rheinpromenade 1, 40789 Monheim, Germany Sybille Cornelsen Ansgar Behler Hans-Martin Haake Natural-based hair conditioning: Closing the gap A new way to serve the neo-green trend Abstract Environmental awareness influences consumers’ day-to-day purchasing decisions in an increasing number of product categories, including personal care. As a result, the market for natural and naturally derived personal care products has seen significant growth across all regions. Products, which are based on naturally derived ingredients have gone from niche to mainstream. However, at the same time, consumers still expect these products to deliver in terms of performance, functionality and efficacy. To meet this soaring demand, manufacturers of personal care products are constantly on the lookout for enhanced natural-based ingredients. Focusing on consumers’ desires and needs has led to the development of a new high-performance conditioner compound that is a combination of an emulsifier, a consistency agent and a conditioning agent, and consists solely of renewable and biodegradable raw materials. INTRODUCTION Consumers’ purchasing decisions are increasingly influenced by considerations about a product’s origin and its ecological impact. That is why naturally derived products have become popular and have moved from niche products to mainstream. Demand for such products continues to soar, reaching the personal care market long ago: many consumers are looking for environmentally compatible personal care products which still provide the desired performance. This neo-green trend has led to increased segmentation of the personal care market, and continues to offer significant opportunities for growth. Global sales of natural personal care products experienced doubledigit growth between 2005 and 2010, to a total sales volume of 23 billion US dollars (Figure 1). There has been growth across all regions, with particularly high rates in Brazil and Asia Pacific (Figure 2) and a very consistent growth in the European market for natural personal care products. In recent years, total sales in Europe have risen steadily, with a compound annual growth rate of 11.1% between 2006 and 2011 (Figure 3) (1). Closing the gap Figure 1. Source: Kline, Natural Personal Care 2011 36 As the market data shows, natural or naturally derived personal care solutions have increased considerably in popularity among consumers H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013
  • 2. Figure 2. Source: Kline, Natural Personal Care 2011 Figure 4. Scheme of automated anti-hair breakage test Using its unique combination of market empathy and science excellence, which includes outstanding expertise in technology and formulations, BASF has developed a new, naturally derived conditioner compound that closes the gap in the conditioner segment. Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Lecithin (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (and) Olus Oil [EU] (Plantaquat® NC) offers very good hair-conditioning properties, creates volume and protects against hair breakage and is environmentally compatible. To fulfill the standards set by various natural and organic cosmetic certification bodies, e.g. EcoCert, COSMOS and NaTrue, an unbleached GMO-free lecithin was selected for use in Plantaquat® NC. Figure 3. Source: Kline, Natural Personal Care 2011 Performance tests worldwide. The growing demand for products that are The innovative formula contains fatty alcohol as a both environmentally compatible and highly effective consistency giving agent, fatty alcohol sulfate as has become one of the main drivers of innovation in the industry. However, this demand proves particularly challenging in some segments when it comes to the formulation of suitable products, for example, when trying to find a solution in the conditioner segment that is both effective and environmentally compatible. In fact, satisfying both these demands is currently one of the major formulation challenges in the hair care market. Deeply committed to innovation, BASF’s Personal Care business strives to Figure 5. Comparison of hair breakage of formulations with Plantaquat® NC with market anticipate market demands benchmark hair conditioners. HB-DE-11-92-238: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C5. and aims to develop products HB-DE-11-92-243: 7% Plantaquat® NC. HB-DE-11-92-254: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Sunflower and solutions that are of real oil. HB-DE-11-92-258: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312. HB-DE-11-92-255: 7% Plantaquat® value for consumers and yield NC + 2% Cegesoft® SB a return to its customers. H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013 37
  • 3. Anti-hair breakage Figure 6. Visual effects of hair strands treated with market benchmark conditioner or test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-258: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312 after 50,000 combing strokes The assessment of the conditioner compound’s anti-hair breakage properties was carried out using a tailormade device as shown in Figure 4 (2). Ten hair strands treated with test formulation were repeatedly combed using the device. The broken hair fibers were collected separately for each strand and were then analyzed gravimetrically. As shown in figure 5, the best hairbreakage prevention was achieved using a formulation containing 7% Plantaquat® NC plus 2% Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Myritol® 312). It reached an anti-breakage level comparable to the benchmark that claims “up to 95% less hair breakage” (benchmark 4), and contains three classic cationics plus a high amount of amodimethicone. Figure 6 visualizes the excellent anti-hair breakage performance of the conditioner compound. Combined with Myritol® 312, it is ideally suited for products that are to be positioned with anti-hair breakage claims. Half-head tests The half-head tests, which compare benchmark hair conditioners with test conditioners, were performed under standardized conditions to evaluate essential hair parameters by a professional hair-dresser after one application. The tests were carried out at an external test institute with 19 volunteers under double blind conditions. A formulation based on 5% Plantaquat® NC and 2% Cetiol® C5 (Coco-Caprylate) was compared to a benchmark hair conditioner certified to natural cosmetic standards. The wet hair parameters showed significant advantages in using the test formulation based on Plantaquat® NC and 2% Cetiol® C5 (Figure 7). Figure 7. Half head test of natural benchmark hair conditioner versus test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-128: 5% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C5 Additional half-head tests compared the performance of a Plantaquat® NC test formulation to that of two classic an emulsifier and lecithin as a conditioning agent. hair conditioners, one of which contained silicone Comprehensive performance evaluation, including oil. As shown in Figures 8 and 9, neither half-head test salon hair tests, was carried out. It showed that revealed significant differences between the benchmark the conditioner compound offers very good hairconditioners and a formulation based on 7% Plantaquat® conditioning properties, creates volume and protects NC and 2% Cetiol® C5. against hair breakage. Evaluation included comparing its performance with classic conditioner benchmarks on the market in terms Wet and dry combability of specific claims, such as hair conditioning, anti-hair breakage, increased hair volume, etc. A combability test was conducted to determine In addition to performance tests on physical properties hair-combing force, total work and electrostatic charge of Plantaquat® NC, half-head tests on Caucasian and using a fully automated system (3) (Figure 10), Asian hair were performed, which showed that the which was developed for high throughput and conditioner compound exhibits outstanding sensorial reproducibility. The basic test formulations delivered effects on wet hair. good conditioning performance on both wet and dry 38 H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013
  • 4. hair (Figures 11 and 12). However, they did not fully reach the performance level of a benchmark conditioner that contained Behentrimonium Chloride as a cationic ingredient. Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) The ToF-SIMS (4) method makes use of the secondary ion mass spectra which are obtained when the sample surface is bombarded with a primary ion beam (Bi3+ ions were used). By this bombardment characteristic secondary ions are obtained from the surface of the sample. Positive/ negative ion mass spectra are obtained by a time-of-flight detector (figure 13). Figure 8. Half head test of a classic benchmark hair conditioner (without silicone) Characteristic positive/negative ions were versus test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-130: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5 first identified in the mass spectra of the pure lecithin, which were then used as reference spectra to detect lecithin on hair following treatment. Bleached hair was treated with a formulation containing all ingredients but lecithin. This hair was used as a reference to proof that identified specific ions are generated by lecithin only and not by any other ingredient or the hair surface. ToF-SIMS imaging is performed by scanning the object surface, detecting the intensity of the emitted secondary ions and storing the data as distribution images. Such images (Figure 14) show the distribution of characteristic ions und thus of lecithin. In figure 14 different images of bleached hair without any further treatment (second row), bleached hair treated with the above mentioned placebo formulation (third row) and bleached hair treated with a conditioner containing Plantaquat® NC (first row) are shown. In the left column total ion counts (all ions obtained from the surface) Figure 9. Half head test of a classic benchmark hair conditioner (with silicone) are shown resulting in images similar to versus test conditioner HB-DE-11-92-130: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5 scanning electron images. In columns two and three the intensity of the characteristic ions of lecithin C5H12N+ and C5H15PNO4+ obtained are shown in red to yellow (low to high intensities). Comparing these images, it can clearly be stated that lecithin is quite homogenously distributed on hair treated with the Plantaquat® NC conditioner. In contrast, only some noise can be seen in images of the other two hair samples. Preparation of test formulation Place hot water (70-75°C) in a vessel. Add Plantaquat® NC in solid form and keep stirring until a temperature of 55°C is reached. Then, add the emollients while stirring, and homogenize with a rotor/stator mixer, e.g. Ultra Turrax, until a homogenous cream has formed. Cool down and add preservative and thermo-sensitive actives at 30-35°C. Finally, adjust pH. Formulations for hair conditioning rinses or hair Figure 10. Fully automated hair combability measurement equipment H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013 39
  • 5. Add more life to facial care Our sensory polymers provide convenient daily facial care that preserves young, confident looks — and not just for Chinese men. Polymers — another Care Creations product group inspired by life. carecreations.basf.com Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.
  • 6. Figure 11. Comparison of wet hair combability of Plantaquat® NC and/or plus emollients with market benchmark hair conditioner. HB-DE-11-92-328: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312. HB-DE-11-92-325: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5. HB-DE-11-92-323: 7% Plantaquat® NC Figure 12. Comparison of dry hair combability of Plantaquat® NC and/or plus emollients with market benchmark hair conditioner. HB-DE-11-92-328: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Myritol® 312. HB-DE-11-92-325: 7% Plantaquat® NC + 2% Cetiol® C 5. HB-DE-11-92-323: 7% Plantaquat® NC Figure 13. Schematics of Time of Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) masks can be complemented by soothing oils, proteins and further actives. Due to the anionic emulsifier, the addition of cationic ingredients is limited. The final conditioner emulsion has a beige-brownish color – for this formulation to fulfill the requirements of natural cosmetics, a bleaching process therefore was omitted. Conclusions Plantaquat® NC can help manufacturers meet the needs of consumers looking for environmentally compatible personal care solutions that compromise neither on efficacy nor on performance. The conditioner compound perfectly supports manufacturers striving to meet the specific hair care demands generated by the neo-green trend. Comprehensive hair conditioning evaluation showed that Plantaquat® NC offers excellent conditioning, volume and protection against hair breakage on the level of benchmark products. The deposition and distribution of active substances, i.e. lecithin, on treated hair was characterized by ToF-SIMS (Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry) imaging. 42 Figure 14. ToF-SIMS imaging of deposition of lecithin, active of Plantaquat® NC, on hair fiber surface References and Notes 1. 2. 3. 4. Kline & Company, Natural Personal Care - An Overview of the US Market, The Holistic Cosmetic Scientific Symposium, St. Paul, MN, March 15, 2011. Haake, H.-M., Eisfeld, W.; Marten, S.; Seipel, W. J Cosmet Sci. 2009, 60 (2), 143-51. Hloucha, M., Haake, H.M., Pellón, G., Cosm & Toil 124(5) 58-69 (2009). Sodhi, R. N. S. Analyst. 2004,129, 483-487. H&PC Today - household and Personal Care today, Vol. 8(5) September/October 2013

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