eYeka's Whitepaper: Using Co-Creation to Conquer  the Chinese Cosmetics Market
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eYeka's Whitepaper: Using Co-Creation to Conquer the Chinese Cosmetics Market

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For global cosmetic companies, China is no longer just an “emerging” market; it has become the place to be. With the highest growth rate in the world, China promises big opportunities -­ but ...

For global cosmetic companies, China is no longer just an “emerging” market; it has become the place to be. With the highest growth rate in the world, China promises big opportunities -­ but also
big challenges. More and more Western brands are trying to understand the desires of Chinese
consumers;; which products will appeal to their needs and tastes and which are the best and most
relevant ways of communicating with them?

Chinese consumers love Western brands. However, they are beginning to seek out local cosmetic brands because these brands have a deeper grasp on Chinese needs and culture. It therefore becomes a necessity for global cosmetics companies to develop a localized approach to the Chinese market.

This paper examines how online co-­creation can help engage creative Chinese consumers with
Western brands. As a result, Chinese consumers can assist foreign cosmetics companies in localizing and developing more relevant products for their own markets.

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eYeka's Whitepaper: Using Co-Creation to Conquer the Chinese Cosmetics Market Document Transcript

  • 1. Using  Co-­Creationto  Conquer  theChinese  CosmeticsMarket
  • 2. Contents Executive  summary                                                                                                                           3   +  Methodology 4 China:  a  complex  market  for  the  cosmetics 5 industry   +  Skincare  is  everything 6   +  Health  and  beauty:  2  sides  of  the  same  coin   7   +  A  new  consumer  group:  cosmetics  for  Chinese  men 8 Using  co-­creation  to  engage  local  consumers   9 with  brands  and  products   +  What  is  online  co-­creation? 10 11   +    The  Chinese  participative  spirit  –  a  catalyst  for  co-­creation 12 5  rules  to  make  online  co-­creation  work  in 13 ChinaThe  authors  want  to  thank  Liz  Grubow,  Johannes  Hartmann,  Guillaume  Legay,  Kenneth  Simonsen,  Stéphane  Courqueux,  Oleg  Curbatov,  Sam  Flemming,  Frederique  Covington,  Stéphane  Wilmet,Marie-­Claire  Thao,  Nourite  Eladan  for  their  contribution  to  this  white  paper.
  • 3. Executive  summaryFor  global  cosmetic  companies,  China  is  no  longer  just  an  “emerging”  market;;  it  has  become  the  place  to  be.  With  the  highest  growth  rate  in  the  world,  China  promises  big  opportunities  -­  but  also  big  challenges.  More  and  more  Western  brands  are  trying  to  understand  the  desires  of  Chinese  consumers;;  which  products  will  appeal  to  their  needs  and  tastes  and  which  are  the  best  and  most  relevant  ways  of  communicating  with  them?  Chinese  consumers  love  Western  brands.  However,  they  are  beginning  to  seek  out  local  cosmetic  brands  because  these  brands  have  a  deeper  grasp  on  Chinese  needs  and  culture.    It  therefore  becomes  a  necessity  for  global  cosmetics  companies  to  develop  a  localized  approach  to  the  Chinese  market.  This  paper  examines  how  online  co-­creation  can  help  engage  creative  Chinese  consumers  with  Western  brands.  As  a  result,  Chinese  consumers  can  assist  foreign  cosmetics  companies  in  lo-­calizing  and  developing  more  relevant  products  for  their  own  markets.  Co-­creation  opportunities  in  ChinaUNDERSTAND  -­  The  online  co-­creation  approach  enables  to  embrace  the  creative,  sensorial  and  emotional  potential  of  Chinese  consumers  that  is  not  always  explored  through  traditional  means  of  research.  Brands  can  better  understand  consumer  needs,  expectations  and  motivations  -­  and  avoid  serious  communication  risks  related  to  launching  a  new  product  in  China.INNOVATE  -­consumers  (not  only  traditional  end-­users),  so  that  the  results  coming  from  co-­creation  projects  provide  more  innovative  insights.  This  strategy  can  naturally  lead  to  the  invention  of  new  product  categories  rather  than  improving  existing  ones.ENGAGE  -­  Chinese  consumers  are  some  of  the  most  active  consumers  in  the  world  and  are  very  vocal  users  of  social  media.  Thanks  to  its  participative  and  engaging  approach,  online  co-­creation  enables  brands  to  create  a  long-­lasting  relationship  with  Chinese  consumers  by  becoming  more  familiar  to  them.   5  rules  to  make  co-­creation  work 1.  Involve  Chinese  consumers  at  the  early                         4.  Use  collaborative  platforms stages  of  new  product  development   5.  Continue  the  conversation 2.   3.  Start  with  creative  consumers 3
  • 4. METHODOLOGYCo-­creating  with  Chinese  consumersJust  as  you  would  have  expected,  this  White  Paper  was  co-­created  with  the  participation  of  Chinese  creative  consumers.  We  decided  to  involve  the  eYeka  community  in  this  project  by  asking  them  to  share  their  personal  beauty-­care  experiences.  In  order  to  gather  deeper  insights,  we  used  a  projec-­tive   technique:   our   creative   Chinese   community   was   encouraged   to   imagine   an  American   tourist  who  is  travelling  to  China  and  wants  to  better  understand  what  Chinese  women  (and  men)  do  to  be  considered  beautiful.  Thus,  the  community  was  asked  to  share  its  “Chinese  beauty  secrets”  with  this  Community  Brief  Kate  is  a  young  American  woman  who  has  decided  to  spend  a  month  in  China  as  a  tourist.  She  is  curious  about  everything  Chinese  –  people,  nature,  culture,  cities…  but  as  a  woman,  she  is  par-­ticularly  interested  in  Chinese  women’s  beauty  habits.-­  Do  Chinese  woman  use  the  same  products  than  in  the  West?-­  Does  “make-­up”  means  the  same  as  in  her  country?-­  Is  personal  grooming  related  to  Chinese  traditional  medicine?-­  Are  there  some  differences  between  Chinese  cities/regions?-­  She  would  like  to  learn  more  about  your  beauty  routine!-­  Share  your  beauty  secrets  with  Kate:  What  are  you  beauty  rituals,  beauty  moments  and  favorite  products  (make-­up,  hair  care,  skincare…)?-­  How  do  you  feel  after  your  self-­care  moment?  By  the  way,  men,  you  are  also  welcome  to  participate!  You  can  ask  your  mothers,  girlfriends  or  sis-­ters  about  their  beauty  experiences  or  share  your  own  self-­care  experiences.Experts’  interviews  To  nourish  our  understanding  of  the  Chinese  beauty  market,  we  decided  to  conduct  interviews  with  several  experts.  People  who  agreed  to  participate  in  the  development  of  this  paper  are  representa-­tives   of   global   cosmetics   companies,   market   research   experts   and   academics.   Their   experience  study.  Surprisingly,  even  though  the  co-­creation  with  the  Chinese  creative  community  was  conducted  independently  of  our  expert  interviews,  we  found  a  strong  correlation  between  the  results. 4
  • 5. China:  a  complex  market  for  thecosmetics  industry   “Chinese  consumers  are  demanding  and  discerning.  They  are  looking  to  brands  and   products  that  understand  their  skin  needs  and  issues  and  will  produce  results.” Liz  Grubow,  LPK  BeautyAs  the  second  largest  cosmetic  market  in  Asia   While   global   cosmetics   brands   must   take   all   of   this  into  account  when  approaching  the  Chinese  global   companies,   yet   it   presents   a   huge   chal-­ market,   Asian   brands   already   possess   the   lo-­lenge:  understanding  the  Chinese  consumer. cal  knowledge  needed  to  connect  with  Chinese   consumers:  “Brands  from  Korea  and  Japan  are  It  is  a  common  mistake  –  especially  in  the  cos-­ competing  with  Western  brands  to  communicate  metics  market  –  to  consider  China  as  one  entity:  “it’s  really  wrong  to  think  that  what  works  else-­ consumer”,  says  Liz  Grubow  (LPK  Beauty).where,  will  also  work  in  China”,  says  Stéphane  Wilmet  (L’Oréal). The   path   to   sustainable   success   for   global     cosmetics  brands  is  the  ability  to  quickly  im-­Not   only   are   climate   differences   evident   be-­ plement   localized   communication   and   prod-­tween  regions,  but  the  market  is  also  develop-­ uct  innovation  solutions  in  China.  Misunder-­ing   unequally   –   there   are   still   large   economic,  social  and  cultural  differences  between  cities  in   can  lead  to  failure  –  that  is  spending  a  lot  of  China.  According   to   Kenneth   Simonsen   (GfK),   time  and  money  to  grow  brands  and  products  “In   Europe   it   is   common   to   speak   of   China   as   that  don’t  resonate  with  Chinese  consumers.one  entity,  but  it  is  important  to  know  that  there  are   huge   differences   between   cities   in   China”.  So  “you  can’t  communicate  with  everyone  in  the  same  manner”,  concludes  Stéphane  Courqueux  (IFOP  Asia). Consumer  voice “ ” “I  think  it’s  Shiseido,  the  Japanese  brand.  As  their  commercials  are  quite  good,   they  always  give  you  a  feeling  that  their  products  are  specially  for  Asian  con-­ Winwin520,  26,  Shanghai   5
  • 6. Skin  is  everythingThe  perception  of  beauty  and  beauty  product  consumption  are  shaped  by  culture.When  it  comes  to  beauty,  skincare  is  the  primary  concern  for  Chinese  consumers.  “They  are  heavy  users  of  skincare  products,  which  represent  around  70%  of  their  beauty  consumption”,  stresses  Liz  Grubow  (LPK  Beauty).Whiteness  is  the  main  feature  of  an  ideal  skintone  in  China  and  cosmetics  companies  constantly  of-­fer  whitening  products  as  well  as  products  with  strong  SPF  protection.According  to  Guillaume  Legay  (Sephora),  “each  region  is  very  different.  So  the  approach  of  selling  beauty  products  should  be  different  too.  For  example,  Asian  clients  ask  for  skincare  products,  then  in  Europe.”  Since  Asian  consumers  use  many  skin  creams  each  day,  they  are  interested  in  larger  product  offerings.  Furthermore,  Chinese  consumers  are  very  demanding  when  choosing  products  Consumer  voice“ “Step   1:   wash   my   face   with   warm   water  and  cool  water  alternately Step  2:  toning  lotion  with  cotton  pad Step  3:  use  eye  cream:  I  will  use  my   -­ der  the  eye,  just  like  playing  piano   Step   4:   Moisturizer:   I   will   warm   the   If  make  up,  I  will  have  2  extra  steps: Step   5:   If   make   up,   I   will   use   sun   screen  block  and  make-­up  base. Step  6:    use  lip  care  stick.  After  using   ” the  lip  stick,  I  will  put  a  tissue  to  my   mouth   and   rub   a   bit   so   that   it   looks   more  natural.” Eryu,  23,    Guangdong 6
  • 7. Health  and  beauty  :  2  sides  of  the  same  coin  The  concept  of  beauty  in  China  is  holistic.  It  is  a  marriage  between  external  appearance  and  internal  health.  Beauty-­care  has  a  more  preventive,  internal  function  in  China  than  in  the  Western  world.An  example  of  the  synergies  between  external  beauty  and  health  is  the  renewed  interest  in  traditional   -­ed  in  traditional  Chinese  medicine:  “this  is  not  just  about  the  product.  This  is  an  entire  concept,  a  phi-­losophy,  a  culture.  Herborist  is  based  in  a  truly  different  approach”,  says  Guillaume  Legay  (Sephora).Throughout  the  ages,  traditional  Chinese  medicine  has  always  been  an  essential  part  of  Chinese  consumers’  lives  -­  be  it  for  health  or  beauty.Cosmetic  companies  that  understand  the  role  that  traditional  Chinese  Medicine  plays  in  Chi-­nese  beauty  perception  and  beauty  product  consumption  can  build  more  relevant  Chinese  brand  identities.   Consumer  voice“ “According  to  traditional  Chinese  saying,  “use  our  inside  to  nourish  the  outside”,   ” which   means   you   need   to   have   enough   sleep,   balance   incretion,   and   regularly   clean  all  the  toxin  out  of  our  body  etc.  if  we  can  have  all  these,  your  skin  will  be   good.” Bigchenxi,  23,  Beijing 7
  • 8. A  new  consumer  group:  cosmetics  for  Chinese  menWhen  it  comes  to  skincare,  one  of  the  biggest  differences  between  China  and  the  West  is  that  men  are   increasingly   active   skincare   consumers   in   China:   “in   the   foreseeable   future,   men   will   be   the  source  of  the  next  growth  in  the  Chinese  skincare  market”  (IFOP  study)  Taking  into  account  that  there  will  be  more  young  Chinese  men  than  women  in  the  near  future,  global  skincare  brands  will  have  new  opportunities  in  product  line  extensions  for  men.There  is  much  less  cultural  resistance  regarding  the  consumption  of  male  skincare  products  in  China:  “The  younger  Chinese  man  is  looking  for  skincare  expertise  and  does  not  look  to  traditional  shaving  Foreign  cosmetics  brands  have  a  unique  opportunity  to  tap  into  the  skincare  market  for  Chi-­nese  men  by  offering  them  products  that  appeal  to  their  needs  and  attitude  towards  beauty.Consumer  voice“ “I  don’t  usually  stay  up  late  as  it’s  really  bad  for  the  skin,  so  I  will  avoid  staying  up   too  late  if  I  don’t  have  anything  that  is  urgent.   I  also  drink  plenty  of  water  every  day  to  make  sure  my  skin  has  enough  water. Before  sleep,  I  will  give  my  feet  a  hot  bath:  it’s  the  immersion  of  both  feet  and  an-­ ” kles  in  hot  water.  I  usually  do  that  for  10  minutes. This  can  help  improve  blood  circulation  and  it’s  good  to  our  body!  This  is  a  very   traditional  Chinese  way.” Rainzeye,  22,  Shanghai 8
  • 9. Using  co-­creation  to  engagelocal  consumers  with  brands  and  products “In  the  21st  century,  “going  local”  is  the  ticket  to  success  for  multinational  brands” Jing  Wang,  Brand  new  ChinaThe  best  way  to  bridge  the  knowledge  gap  in  China  for  cosmetic  brands  is  to  directly  collaborate  with  Chinese  consumers  by  using  an  online  co-­creation  approach.  This  approach  refers  to  a  deep  collaboration  between  a  brand  and  its  consumers  to  innovate  marketing,  products  and  communica-­tion  so  that  the  resulting  output  would  fully  connect  with  consumers  while  conveying  the  brand  in  a  manner  that  best  resonates  with  them.The  co-­creation  approach  has  three  principles:UNDERSTANDThe  purpose  of  the  co-­creation  approach  is  to  better  understand  consumer  needs  and  motivations.  It  allows  brands  to  minimize  communication  risks  related  to  brand  or  new  product  launches  in  the  Chinese  market.    INNOVATEThe  online  co-­creation  approach  is  about  engaging  creative  consumers  (not  only  traditional  end-­us-­ers)  so  that  the  results  of  co-­creation  projects  provide  more  innovative  ideas  that  are  pertinent  to  the  consumer.  These  will  naturally  lead  to  the  invention  of  new  product  categories  or  more  engaging  communication  rather  than  merely  improving  what  already  exists.ENGAGEBy  involving  consumers  in  the  creation  process,  co-­creation  enables  brands  to  create  a  long-­lasting  relationship  with  consumers  based  on  trust  and  familiarity.    This  strategy  then  increases  their  pro-­pensity  to  buy  and  recommend  the  brand  and  its  products. 9
  • 10. What  is  online  co-­creation? Co-­creation  is  an  active,  creative  and  social  process  based  on  collaboration  between   producers  and  consumers. Frank  Piller  &  Christopher  Ihl,  2009There  are  many  ways  to  collaborate  with  consum-­ers.  Yet,  one  of  the  most  effective  ways  is  via  online  co-­creation.  Unlike  more  traditional  methods,  this  is  not  about  conducting  focus  groups  or  seeking  con-­sumer  feedback  on  products  already  developed.  In-­stead,  co-­creation  is  about  involving  consumers  in  the  early  stages  of  development  and  acting  on  their  feedback  throughout  the  innovation  process.While   involving   consumers   at   the   right   time   is   im-­portant  for  any  co-­creation  process  to  be  truly  suc-­cessful,  pin-­pointing  the  right  type  of  consumers  for  the  project  is  absolutely  key  for  any  results  worthy  of  the  effort.  Who  are  the  right  consumers  to  target?  Only  a  tiny  fraction  of  consumers  have  the  creative  capability  that  can  deliver  innovation  breakthrough.  These  people  are  called  “creative  consumers”.Unfortunately,  most  market  research,  “crowdsourc-­ing”   initiatives   or   innovation-­related   consumer   en-­gagement   takes   place   within   the   90%   of   consum-­ers  who  only  display  “average”  creative  capability.  Therefore,  the  information  provided  often  does  not  deliver  the  game-­changing  results  or  breakthrough  innovations  companies  need  in  order  to  stay  com-­petitive.and  engage  this  1%  of  consumers  that  display  exceptional  creative  abilities.  These  consumers  can   “help   brands   gather   innovative   insights,  entire   new   business   opportunities.”   (Forrester  Research,  Co-­creation  Vendors  2011) 10
  • 11. Rapid  engagementOnline  co-­creation  is  the  quickest  way  to  engage  with  Chinese  consumers.Traditional  surveys  can  take  months  -­  even  years  -­  to  deploy  in  a  country  as  big  as  China.  As  international  cosmetic  brands  set-­up  shop  in  T2  or  T3  cities,  they  quickly  realize  that  they  do  not    Thanks  to  the  Internet,  there  are  currently  more  than  400  million  Chinese  consumers  accessible  on-­line.  According  to  the  Boston  Consulting  Group,  China  has  the  most  active  digital  population  among  the  BRICI  (Brazil,  Russia,  India  and  Indonesia)  countries.With  the  increased  importance  of  the  Internet  and  word  of  mouth  communication  in  China,  online  co-­creation  is  the  best  way  to  quickly  become  a  part  of  consumer’s  daily  life.Creative  understandingOnline  co-­creation  taps  into  consumers’  creative  potential  and  innovative  insights.Co-­creation  is  a  collaborative  task  that  is  more  enjoyable  than  simply  answering  questions.  By  using  traditional  research  techniques  companies  may  often  get  results  that  do  not  reveal  any  new  information.  Co-­creation  approaches  make  it  is  easier  to  gather  deeper  and  more  innovative  insights  and  uncover  less-­evident  consumer  needs.Since  creativity  is  a  means  of  self-­expression  and  self-­realization,  people  are  naturally  more  engaged  in  creating  something.  And  when  creating  for  a  brand,  consumers  build  familiarity  with  it.  According  to  experts,  public  self-­expression  is  not  as  widely  accepted  in  China  as  it  may  be  else-­where.   For   example,   the   need   to   answer   to   a   question   correctly   is   seen   as   crucial   as   the   wrong  answer  could  lead  to  a  loss  of  “face”  (mianzi)  or  shame.  As  a  result,  verbal  communication  is  less  important  than  visual  communication.  The  online  co-­creation  approach  uses  projective  and  creative  techniques  lets  Chinese  consumers  save  face  and  is  better  suited  to  Chinese  culture  than  other  ver-­bal/face-­to-­face  research  techniques.Relevent  authenticityOnline  co-­creation  enables  companies  to  enter  the  homes  of  Chinese  consumers.  Observation  is  one  of  the  best  ways  –  even  better  than  focus  groups  -­  for  understanding  Chinese  consumption  habits.  Nevertheless,  it  can  be  time-­consuming  and  the  presence  of  a  researcher  can  observation  while  eliminating  the  biases  of  the  researcher.  Online  co-­creation  means  that  creativity  is  no  longer  framed  by  space.  Creative  consumers  create  when  and  where  they  want.  This  results  in  more  authentic,  context-­based  information. 11
  • 12. The  Chinese  participative  spirit  -­  a  co-­creation  driverChinese  consumers  are  massively  online  400  million  Internet  users  in  China  The  usage  rate  is  the  highest  among  all  the  BRICI  countries  More  than  80%  of  digital  users  use  instant  messaging,  read  news  online,  and  stream  or                          download  music  73%  of  China’s  online  population  are  aged  35  and  under  Chinese  Internet  users  spend  2.7  hours  a  day  online  99%  of  young  professionals  are  Internet  usersSource:  Boston  Consulting  Group,  2010Chinese  consumers  are  highly  participative UK  =  50M CH  =  400M 41%    have  uploaded  photo 55%  have  uploaded  photo 15%  have  uploaded  video 34%  have  uploaded  video 7%  have  used  microblogging 23%  have  used  microbloggingSource:  Harvard  Business  ReviewMotivation  drivers  for  Chinese  participation  online Represent  my  perception  of  a  product  and   show  personel  ways  of  using  products. Being  recognized  by  the  community  for  the   quality  of  my  craeations Having  fun  by  creating  something  for  brands Improve  my  creative  skills Being  rewarded  for  my  creations 12Source:  eYeka  Chinese  community  survey,  march  2011
  • 13. 5  rules  to  make  co-­creation  work  in  China  1.Involve   Chinese   consumers   in   the   early   stages   of   new  product  developmentIt  is  important  to  involve  consumers  in  the  early  stages  of  the  product  development  process  in  order   -­product  will  fully  satisfy  his/her  needs.It  is  not  only  important  to  involve  consumers  at  the  right  time  –  but  also  involve  the  right  type  of  con-­sumers  in  the  co-­creation  process.  According  to  Professor  Oleg  Curbatov,  companies  should  focus  on   Knowledge   Marketing   by   drawing   on   the   skills   and   competencies   that   their   consumers   have.  Companies   can   then   apply   this   extra   knowledge   by   involving   consumers   in   the   brand   or   product  experience.  According  to  Forrester’s  taxonomy  of  participative  consumers,  the  most  valuable  for  co-­creation  initiatives  are:  (1)  Hyper-­Engaged  Customers  –  fans  of  your  product  or  brand  with  whom  co-­creation  is  “more  likely  to  elicit  more  and  more  useful,  responses”,  (2)  Creative  Consumers  –  whose  primary  interest  is  to  apply  creative  thinking  and  are  thus    “a  prime  source  of  innovative  ideas”,  and  (3)  Experts  –  who  provide  brands  with  their  “experience  with  the  particular  topic”  as  they  are  “  very  familiar  with  a  product,  service,  market,  industry,  or  technology”.3.  Start  with  creative  consumersWhen  one  uses  traditional  market  research  methods  to  ask  consumers  what  new  products  or  ser-­vices  they  would  like,  the  results  are  often  very  limited;;  they  translate  to  suggested  improvements  of  existing  products  rather  than  the  creation  of  entirely  new  product  categories.  This  is  because  this  type   of   approach   addresses   the   masses   rather   than   working   with   a     target   audience.   Innovation  comes  from  creative  minds  and  we  think  that  the  co-­creation  approach  is  the  best  way  for  Chinese  always  explored  enough  through  other  means  of  market  research.  4.  Use  collaborative  platformsWith  the  increase  in  Internet  use  in  China,  a  consumer’s  involvement  in  a  brand’s  development  is  now  becoming  more  relevant  than  ever  before.  Online  collaborative  platforms  offer  brands  the  ability  to  quickly  engage  with  socially  active  Chinese  consumers.  Once  the  product  has  been  co-­created  with  the  most  creative  consumers,  these  collaborative  platforms  make  it  easier  to  validate  it  with  cer-­tain  types  of  participative  consumers,  like  experts  and  the  hyper-­engaged  consumers.    5.  Continue  the  conversationCo-­creation  between  brands  and  consumers  requires  openness  and  trust.  It  also  needs  to  be  dura-­ble.  Therefore,  to  build  sustainable  relationship  with  local  consumers,  global  cosmetic  brands  should  really  important  in  the  Chinese  market  comparing  with  American  or  European  ones  is  that  Chinese  consumers  need  to  be  accompanied,  they  need  to  feel  that  brands  really  look  after  them”,says  Kenneth  Simonsen  (GfK). 13
  • 14. About  eYekaeYeka  is  the  global  market  leader  in  online  co-­creation.  eYeka  leverages  an  international  community  of  creative  consumers  that  helps  companies  generate  creative  insights,  unlock  innovation  opportuni-­IP  protected  environment.  eYeka  serves  more  than  100  leading  brands  such  as  P&G,  l’Oreal,  Coca-­Cola,  Unilever,  Danone  and  Microsoft  and  is  present  in  France,  Singapore,  UK,  USA  and  China.  For  more  information:  http://en.eyeka.netThe  contributors  to  this  paper:Indre   Liepuoniute,   François   Pétavy,  Alexandre   Olmedo,   Maette   Caudal,   Joël   Cere,   Yannig   Roth,  Xuan  Long,  Garance  Boutrit,  Claire  Vandenberghe 14