Fruits   tree pruning
Upcoming SlideShare
Loading in...5

Fruits tree pruning



Fruits - Tree Pruning

Fruits - Tree Pruning
Fruit and Vegetable Science
K. Jerome



Total Views
Views on SlideShare
Embed Views



1 Embed 2 2



Upload Details

Uploaded via as Microsoft PowerPoint

Usage Rights

© All Rights Reserved

Report content

Flagged as inappropriate Flag as inappropriate
Flag as inappropriate

Select your reason for flagging this presentation as inappropriate.

  • Full Name Full Name Comment goes here.
    Are you sure you want to
    Your message goes here
Post Comment
Edit your comment

    Fruits   tree pruning Fruits tree pruning Presentation Transcript

    • Pruning Fruit Trees
      • All fruit trees need pruning to help them develop into strong, productive trees
      • Pruning thins bearing limbs - fewer but larger fruits
      • Gets rid of unproductive old wood
      • Lets light, air into center of tree for healthy production
      • Each type has natural form
      • Following this form leads to attractive tree that generally needs pruning only once a year
      • Pruning generally done in spring on dormant trees
      • Sucker, water sprout removal most successful in mid-summer since tree is slowing growth - sprouts don’t come back as readily
      • Keep in mind framework
      • of tree
      • Make clean cuts with sharp, clean tools
      • Well-pruned fruit tree will be shaped somewhat like Christmas tree
      • Prune to remove
      • crossing branches
      • diseased or damaged
      • branches
      • water sprouts
      • branches that form narrow, weak angles
      • Prune to open canopy for maximum air circulation
      • Best methods for high production, easy picking:
      • central leader
      • modified central leader
      • Tree pruned to have one central trunk, scaffold branches evenly spaced around center leader
    • Central Leader
      • Used on dwarf, semi-dwarf trees
      • Leader allowed to grow
    • Modified Central Leader
      • Used on standard-sized trees
      • Central leader cut back yearly to keep tree shorter
    • Year One
      • one-year whip (no branches)
      • cut back to bud three feet above
      • ground
      • as shoots grow during summer, select 3-4 scaffold branches, 4-8 inches apart, evenly spaced in spiral around central leader
      • pinch out or rub off all other shoots on main trunk
      • forces energy into growing scaffold branches
    • Year One
      • If tree already branched, select appropriate scaffold branches and prune out all others
      • Cut back central leader to 4-6 inches above top scaffold
      • Through summer, allow new central leader to emerge
      • Remove all shoots that arise from the trunk
    • Year Two
      • In dormant season, cut back central leader to about 3 feet above lowest scaffold branch
      • Cut just above bud on opposite side of trunk from which leader emerged last year
      • Zigzag will keep trunk straight
    • Year Two
      • Head back scaffold branches by cutting at outward facing bud
      • This will force secondary growth and begin developing fruiting wood
      • You can also let some branches form more scaffolds
    • Year Two
      • Through summer, remove shoots that arise within about 8 inches of newly emerging central leader
      • Prune out water sprouts, suckers and any unwanted branches
    • Spreading
      • Fruit trees with natural tendency to grow upward will need help “spreading”, beginning in second year
      • Method of placing spreaders in young branch angles to help push the branch into 45 to 60 degree angle with trunk
      • Promotes earlier, heavier fruit production
    • Spreading
      • Done in early spring when
      • branches pliable
      • Types of spreaders:
      • notched pieces of wood
      • pieces of wood with nails protruding from both ends
      • clothespins
      • weights tied to branches
    • Year three
      • Prune leader as in year two
      • Slightly head back scaffold branches
      • Thin out extra branches
      • Prune water sprouts, suckers in mid summer
    • Fourth year
      • Tree should be at maximum height, so don’t prune central leader any more
      • Should have sturdy network of scaffold branches, so will only need minor pruning from here on
    • Modified central leader
      • Prune just as for central leader system, except in fourth year, cut out leader flush with topmost scaffold branch
      • From this point on, will not let branch assume position of central leader
    • Espalier
      • es pal' yay
      • Decoratively trained flat
      • against wall or trellis
      • Take up less space than
      • if grown at full diameter
      • Provide fruit and focal point
      • Can also shade south or west wall,
      • cooling the home
    • Espalier
      • Pruned carefully to maintain only branches against wall or trellis
      • Practiced as art for hundreds of years
      • Countless special designs for training
    • Espalier
      • candelabra
      • Belgian fence
      • informal fan
    • Espalier
      • Considerable amount of extra pruning time needed than when growing fruits traditionally
      • Will yield larger fruits since competing fruits removed, branches receive more sun
      • Major pruning 2-3 times a year with additional minor pruning throughout growing season
    • Espalier
      • Can purchase plants already started in training system
      • Can start with whip – much less expensive
    • Espalier
      • Begin with very young tree
      • Single stem will give best start
      • Plant tree very close to south, west, east wall
      • Or, plant at base of frame or trellis
    • Espalier
      • Branches tied to framework with soft ties
      • Purchase ties or make
      • them
      • If using wall, need
      • frame to tie
      • branches to
    • Espalier
      • Common framework:
      • Permanent stainless
      • steel wires attached
      • with pegs directly to wall
      • Watch weight
      • rot-resistant wood
    • Espalier
      • When plant sends out first branches, start shaping
      • Prune each branch and branchlet to train it to grow in direction desired
      • If lacking symmetry, can graft bud into empty spot
      • As branches grow, tie them gently to framework
    • Espalier
      • Throughout growing season, watch each bud
      • If branch begins to grow in incorrect spot, remove it
    • Pleaching
      • Traditional pruning technique involves weaving branches of trees planted in row to form screen or arch.
      • Vertical branches cut off, horizontal shoots trained in single plane
      • As shoots from neighboring trees intermingle, they are pleached
    • Pleaching
    • Pleaching