Paithani

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Presentation for Assocham-IMC LW Exhibition at The Ashok Hotel Convention Hall, New Delhi, Feb 23-24, 2010.

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Paithani

  1. 1. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Touch of Class Paithani Sarees by Rashmi Tapadia, Pune ASSOCHAM IMC LADIES’ WING WINNER OF ASSOCHAM WOMEN ENTREPRENEURS 2010 AWARD FOR PAITHANI REVIVAL NEW DELHI, Feb 23 rd 2010. Since 200 B.C.
  2. 2. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. PAITHANI Paithani is the completely hand-woven fabric made from fine silk, gold and silver threads (Jari) by painstaking efforts of artisans with the ancient technique of tapestry weaving. Due to its golden appearance from precious metal threads and intricate woven motifs, it was popular as Golden Woven Fabric forming a Royal attire for Satvahan, Yadavas and Romans that became tradition for Mughal’s, Nizam of Hyderabad and Peshwas.
  3. 3. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Born in Paithan (Pratishtan) in 200 B.C., the splendid capital of Satvahana Dynasty. At times, Romans imported this Golden Woven Fabric in exchange of gold of equal weight. Under the rule of Yadava and Chalukya, it retained its royal touch becoming a precious textile. Despite the passage of time that saw changing rulers and instability, it managed to survive. During Mughal Era, Aurangzeb brought back life to Paithani introducing new motifs and supported weavers for survival. Peshwa of Pune patronized it further by settling artisans to Yeola, a small town near Shirdi. Loosing its glory in British Raj, Paithani struggled long for survival until private and government institutions joined for its revival. Since 200 B.C. HISTORY
  4. 4. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Several ancient texts and manuscripts suggest that this golden woven fabric was made and traded worldwide for over 5000 years but got the popular name “Paithani” after patronage of Satvahana’s dynasty. HISTORY. . . Capital of Satvahana: Pratishtan later became today’s Paithan.
  5. 5. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. MAKING
  6. 6. Pallu Butti Border Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. WEAVING
  7. 7. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. BEYOND FABRIC From raw Silk to Fabric it takes many trained hands before becoming the ‘ONE’ special Paithani. Washing raw silk, dyeing, washing and drying BHAVSAR COMMUNITY Winding single silk thread on ASARI separating from dyed silk bundle (WOMEN OF WEAVERS FAMILY) Making Jari from precious metal & winding over silk/cotton thread (SONAR, PATVEKARI & CHAPADE COMMUNITY) Carpenter, Blacksmith, Takari, Raul, Shikalgar and Bamboo workers contribute in each step of making loom and its parts. Weaving motifs and pallu require special skill that only come from hardwork and experience of decades of work. (SALI, KHATRI, KOSHTI & MOMIN COMMUNITY) After weaving, paithani is finished, jari is shined and then roll pressed after careful scrutiny. (WEAVER & TRADER COMMUNITY) Dyeing: Separating: Jari: Loom: Border/Pallu Finishing: Counting hands those made Paithani is as difficult as counting her threads!
  8. 8. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Weaving Elements While weaving every thread, artisans incorporate their heart & soul that brings in entire elements of life in one fabric that takes months to years. Without soul, it is not Paithani. Every thread woven is meant to protect, bring prosperity and royal touch but beyond that a glory that every woman deserves!
  9. 9. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. WEAVING LEGACY OF INDIA 3 Min Video
  10. 10. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. BORDERS
  11. 11. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. PALLU
  12. 12. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. IDENTITY Identified by Motif on Border, it takes Name & personality Bangadi-Mor (Peacock in Bangle) Sakhali (Peacock/Parrot in Chain) Asawali Lotus Koyari or Mango Narali or Coconut Muniya (Parrot) Peacock Geometry Parinda
  13. 13. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Elements of Life Paithani, that carries the cultural legacy of India, has a special place in the life of women who are the pillars of every family and society. The ancient textile unites entire elements of life in the form of blessings and protection to the wearer. The motifs that set Paithani above all other traditional fabric points to the special significance of living in harmony with nature and its elements. Traditional motifs that are still popular since its birth over 2000 years ago are derived from nature that forms essential part of human life.
  14. 14. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Elements of Life MOTIFS The Bangle-Peacock motif (Bangadi-Mor): Bangle is sign the of Saubhagya which represents completeness of being a woman. Peacock represent beauty, royalty, wisdom, wholeness, dignity, love and is a guardian. It also carries a sense of energy that comes from its renewal of feathers every year. Parrot (Tota Maina): Parrot is sign of love and passion. Its red beak represents the red earth before the rain or the unfulfilled desire and the green feathers representing the green earth after rains or fulfilled desire, full of joy that forms indispensable part of human life. Rain, that makes earth fertile and plants to nourish initiating chain of life. Without Sun , there no rain and without Rain there is no Life .
  15. 15. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. MOTIFS Lotus (Kamal): The Lotus bears a close resemblance to the murals of Ajanta Caves It is the sign of rebirth. The Lotus closes in the evening and falls into water. But in the morning, it opens up lifting itself above the surface of water.  It also represents essence of life in addition to representing royalty, beauty and purity. Mango (Koyari): Koyari is also sign of Saubhagya and have special significance in Hindu religion.  Mango is fruit of GOD and represent divine sweetness and abundance. Coconut (Narali): Known as Sriphal in India it is the fruit of gods. It symbolises complete usefulness, selfless service, prosperity and generosity. Kalpvirshka is termed in Hindu mythology as the tree that grants all wishes.
  16. 16. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Connecting India Patola of Patan 400 A D Paithani 200 B C Chanderi 1100 A D Banarasi 1000 A D Kanchipuram Maheshwari Kanjivaram
  17. 17. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Role of Touch of Class Export Direct Selling Education Fair Returns Support to Family Sustainable Income Retirement Plans Relocation Patronage from YOU!
  18. 18. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. Inspiration Our Pride: Dr. (Mrs.) Swati Piramal Our Faith: ASSOCHAM & IMC LW
  19. 19. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. You have a beautiful heart Let Paithani make it Glorious! Support Indian Heritage & Monuments Support for a cause !
  20. 20. Paithani: Celebrated Indian Art Since 200 B.C. THANK YOU ASSOCHAM & IMC LADIES’ WING Dr. (Mrs.) Swati Piramal & Mrs. Sheila Kripalani Rashmi Jolly, Sheetal Ansal, Jyoti Doshi Chitra Paul, Honey Gopal, Shubhangi Ra, Shivina Kumari, Suma Menon, M G Verma & my family of Paithani Weavers of Yeola

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