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  1. 1. V Very ienna Viennese Culture and Lifestyle Beyond its Clichées Power in Tranquility The Chinese Diaspora in Vienna Hands On, Minds On, Hearts On! Vienna’s Approach to Children’s Culture One Night in Vienna The City’s Vibrant and Unique Club and Bar Scene Step by Step Discovering Viennese Dancing Tradition
  2. 2. V Very ienna Viennese Culture and Lifestyle Beyond its Clichées The Magazine Very Vienna was produced Dear Readers, Page Content by students of the Department of Commu- Thank you for picking up this magazine and for your 4 Power in Tranquillity nication of the university of Vienna. The interest. In connection with the May 2010 Austria-Day The Chinese Diaspora in Vienna department is the largest communication at Shanghai’s World Expo, we are happy to send a 7 Chinese New Year’s Concert education institution in the German- special greeting from Vienna, the capital city of in Vienna speaking countries in Europe in terms of Austria, to every single reader. You may agree that Vienna is famous for classical music, theatre, opera, 8 The First Chinese Lantern Festival students. Up to 6000 students are studying and for its wonderful imperial architecture. And, of in Vienna in Bachelor, Master or PhD programmes, each year about 1000 young people start an course, we are happy that you enjoy and admire all of 9 Step by step this. The world’s interest and admiration has given Discovering Vienna’ Dancing undergraduate programme. Fields of study Vienna got the reputation of being city of living Tradition include journalism, advertising, public history. Having a good image is an asset, but being relations, media management, communi- 12 Light, Shadows and Motion nothing more than that which an image presents cation politics, media paedagogy, media Vienna’s Unique Cinema would be bad for a city’s vital identity. psychology, communication research and Landscape That is why we would also like you to know that much more. 14 “Hands, on, Minds on, Vienna is more than just its history. On the founda- The Department runs an exchange Hearts On!” tions of history, a culture of reflexion, of presence, and programme with the Shanghai-based Vienna’s Approach to Children’s also of openness to the future is flourishing. One might Fudan University, Faculty of Journalism. Culture forget that beyond the clichés and stereotypes, the Each year, a dozen of Austrian students go gorgeous art, a marvellous show can only be realistic 18 Poems, Enzi’s and Tomatoes to Shanghai for a semester within the and credible if there is an intrinsically autochthonous Traces of Contemporary Art Media Communication Master programme and authentic side to it: the “Very Vienna” side. in Public Space MCM. In return, up to twenty students from You may know that Vienna feeds from its local genius. 19 An Urban Intervention Shanghai stay in Vienna and Salzburg for a That, however, you may not know well: the dialectic Soho Festival at Vienna’s couple of months. attitude in facing everyday life and wrestling with its Brunnenmarkt contradictions. This is called the ‘Viennese Mentality’ 22 One Night in Vienna and it is a blend of opposites: humour and sadness, will The City’s Vibrant and Unique to live and desire to die, astonishing beauty and Club and Bar Scene triumphant mediocrity, open and wide horizons and small minds, belief and scepticism, overpowering 25 Falafel, Sauerkraut and sorrow and sometimes negligent carelessness, easily- Dumplings offended criticism and irrational empathy and warmth. Vienna´s Exotic and Lively Inner All this, and so much more, embody the psychology of City Market an urban society characterized by rich social and 26 Problems? No, Creatives Seize cultural history, different cultural traditions, religious the Opportunity programs, and worlds of knowledge. Freud himself Creative People Giving & could not explain it. Benefitting in a City Filled with In order to give you an insight into Vienna as it is for Possibilities itself and through itself, the students of the Depart- 28 Richness of the 100 Voices ment of Communication at he Faculty of Social 100 Communities on TV to Show Sciences at the University of Vienna tried to portray Their Insights and Interests IMPRINT Vienna as it is not shown in worldwide mainstream 30 Architecture Macchiato: Very Vienna. media: as a space for creative art with a particular life Department of Communication, Garnishing Architecture University of Vienna style. We also wanted to portrait the city as a place of Young Architecture Contributing Schopenhauerstrasse 32, science and knowledge, but because there is only so 1180 Vienna, Austria to a Vital Cityscape much space in this magazine, we had to restrict our- Editor-in-Chief selves to some small examples –those should, at least, 34 The Baron and His Harness Thomas A. Bauer show that creativity also matters in science. Aboard one of Vienna’s Famous +43 4277 49336 Fiaker Carriages However, there are big differences between Vienna Executive Editor 37 Death Must Be Viennese Axel Maireder and Shanghai, but there is at least one similarity: Better City, Better Life! Europe’s Biggest Cemetry and +43 4277 49375 a Sepultural Museum Editors Laura Bakmann Enjoy the magazine, Jelena Gucanin Edith Hammer Warm Regards, Fabian Kretschmer Josef Ladenhauf Judith List Katharina Oke Andreas Rainer Amelie Springer Michael Zita Dr. Thomas A. Bauer, University Professor at the English Proofreading Department of Communication / University of Vienna Iphigenia Moraitini Chinese Translations Celia Tsui Graphic-Design Karl-Heinz Maireder VeryVienna 3
  3. 3. T Power in ranquillity The Chinese Diaspora in Vienna 25,000 Chinese live in Austria – most of them in Vienna. Four of them tell us how they live and why they think clocks are ticking slower in Vienna. By Jelena Gucanin “Shall I put on my Chinese cap?” Simon owner. “I’ve always loved food and cook- asks with a smile, before the camera ing.” The 47-year-old man was born in clicks. It’s 4 pm. At this hour there’s not Hangzhou, capital city of the Chinese much going on here. The noises behind province of Zheijang. By the end of 1988, the bar cover the room and the waiters he followed his sister Xie Fei Ru to are chatting in Chinese. Neither dragons Austria. nor golden ornaments decorate the According to “Statistik Austria” (2009) walls, dark red and white are the domi- there are about 10,000 Chinese people nant hues in the Chinese “On”- living in Austria. “We definitely know Restaurant in the fifth Viennese district. that there are about 25, 000. Most of “I somehow slipped into gastronomy by them live in Vienna”, counters professor accident”, recounts Simon Xie Hong, the Susanne Weigelin-Schwiedrzik of the 4 VeryVienna
  4. 4. Lesheng Chen (24), a student of sinology: “I love the Viennese coffee culture. If I have some free time, I enjoy it in coffee houses.” Jelena Gucanin Liu Xiu Ming (53), a painter: “I love arts and Vienna is full of it. Also, the tranquillity is inspiring.” Jelena Gucanin Simon Xie Hong (47), a successful restaurant-owner: “Just because Vienna is slow doesn’t mean it’s sleeping.” Jelena Gucanin Sinology department of the University of lot about its great musicians and writers. Vienna. “In professional jargon we call It also happened that I read Freud in them ‘sojourners’. They are people, who Chinese, his works were considered to be have a more or less defined migrant-sta- very elitist. That was Vienna to me.” tus.” Many people do not call themselves New home migrants, because they intend to some- Simon isn’t the only one who owns a day return to China. Most Chinese immi- restaurant in Vienna. “There are about grants hail from a few specific, once-poor 480 Chinese restaurants in Vienna”, says regions. In the case of Austria, this is the expert. “The Chinese locate them- mainly the province of Zheijang. selves according to a pattern. At first they As a successful restaurant-owner, Simon work in a Chinese restaurant. With the doesn’t want to return: “Back then I got money they save they start their own. If the travel bug, I wanted to get to know it works well, they aim to set up an im- the world.” After he had finished his med- port-export business. They foster a close icine degree, he worked at the university tie to China by doing so.” Through the use hospital for one year, before making the of global networks they contribute to last-minute decision to move to Austria. both the Chinese and the Austrian eco- “I only knew Vienna from books. I read a nomic development. VeryVienna 5
  5. 5. But success doesn’t allow Simon to have a lot of spare time. He works seven days a week: “Before, I used to work five days a week. At the time when I couldn’t speak German, I used to go to the cinema and watch a lot of television. Not long ago I met Karin Resetarits [a famous TV host One of them is Lesheng Chen. “I’ve been in Vienna since 2001”, says the 24-year- old student. At first glance she seems to be very shy, but this is a false impression. Her knowledge German is good, yet she says, that she still has a lot to learn: “Unfortunately nobody speaks English in Otherwise living here would be point- less.” An Invisible Minority? S For Xie Fei Ru, all could have ended differ- ently. “My life is full of lucky coinci- dences”, she smiles. She came to Vienna A/N] and said to her: ‘You were my first Austria ”, Lesheng laughs. She comes in 1986: “I worked at a friend’s restaurant. German teacher.’ Back then I didn’t from Qingdao and belongs to the new The start wasn’t very difficult for me, be- understand a word, but her television middle class that emerged in China over cause I instantly felt comfortable”, says programme fascinated me so much that the course of the last decade. Her parents the confident 55-year-old woman. Later my eyes were glued to the screen.” sent her to Vienna to give her a competi- she ran her own restaurant in Mistelbach tive advantage on the Chinese job mar- near Vienna – including a hotel and a Simon came to Vienna in the 1980s. “In ket. “Vienna is very musical and a little cinema. She successfully paid off the the 1970s and early 1980s, Austria bit old fashioned, too. That’s why my par- debts of the former owner. “I enjoy being opened up to immigration”, explains ents chose Austria for me.” In addition to able to make my own decisions”, notes Weigelin-Schwiedrzik. “Chinese mainly her study she works as a waitress. She Xie. Today, she runs the “Association of came as guest workers, but there were hopes to graduate from university soon: Chinese Women” in Vienna – a club, in students and people from international “I’m a bit lazy. I could still do more. But which Chinese women can organize companies, too.” Another wave of that’s what I like about Vienna: I’m al- their spare time. migrants was caused by Austria’s entry lowed to take it slow.” into the European Union: “For many The organised functioning of the com- Chinese, Austria became a rest stop So does the painter Liu Xiu Ming. For her, munity is in some ways one of the rea- before moving on into other European the clocks in Vienna are ticking slower, sons for which it functions a little like an countries.” Economic factors are still de- too: “In Vienna I can work calmly. In “invisible” minority, according to profes- cisive in migration today. Furthermore, a China there’s so much motion every day, sor Weigelin-Schwiedrzik: “Chinese don’t lot of students come to Vienna in order to it’s so exhausting sometimes.” At her attract attention in public, because they study. bright studio, which is full of books and have a tradition of self-organization and CDs, the 53-year-old woman admits that make no political claims.” In contrast to her beginnings in Vienna haven’t always other big cities, there is no Chinatown in been easy. In 1987, she came to Vienna on Vienna. Locally seen, the centre of the the invitation of a married couple. She Chinese community is situated around studied at the University for Applied Arts the Naschmarkt, the large farmer’s mar- with Maria Lassning and later obtained ket in Vienna’s fourth district. “In Vienna her Master’s degree at the Academy of you could solely eat in Chinese restau- Fine Arts in Vienna, with Arik Brauer: “At rants, buy in Chinese shops, read Chinese the beginning, not everybody was newspaper and go to Chinese events – friendly to me. Added to this, I had diffi- and you wouldn’t have to meet any culties with the language. However, it Austrians at all”, the professor smiles. happened that Maria Lassnig showed my “We don’t need any Chinatown in paintings in front of the whole master Vienna”, Simon insists. It’s 5 pm. It’s get- class. From then on, I was respected”, she ting dark outside and the restaurant is remembers smilingly. Because of her gradually filling up with people. Simon is cheerful manner and of the leopard-print getting up several times in order to greet blouse she wears, she looks about twenty his guests. Most of them know him by years younger than she really is. Drinking his name. “Cultural exchange is impor- Chinese tea, she reflects about Vienna: tant”, he says. “I’ve lived here for such a “Vienna is full of arts and culture. In older long time, people here are kind, friendly times, many Chinese thought Vienna and honest. We are all widely scattered was in Australia”, she laughs. “However, and that’s good. Why should we build a it’s very important to make use of the fortress?” many advantages this city has to offer. 6 VeryVienna
  6. 6. S tarting the Year of the Tiger The Grand Chinese New Year Concert toire balanced Chinese traditional and with the Wu Promotion folk songs as well as contemporary Chinese music. Between great sym- phonic pieces, the significantly different China’s Traditional tones of diverse instruments shine through, next to breathtaking percussion Broadcast Orchestra solos. Many different nationalities and a history spanning several thousand years of tradition in music are the origin of By Josef C. Ladenhauf these amazing melodies and broad vari- ety of styles. Chinese listeners are coming every year A hot cup of plum wine, blooming jas- known as karaoke lovers and fans of to attend the New Year’s Concert of the mine flowers and a fish tank with beauti- ABBA might be attending that, most of Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra and ful koi-goldfish are the first things an Vienna’s Chinese would head for hall F, some might already have tried Austrian Austrian listener visualises, when the where a very special event was taking food in the Österreicher-Haus in Orchestra sets in for their first song. place on that same evening: The annual Shanghai as well. Echoing this, fans of Except for those, who have really experi- Chinese New Year’s Concert with splen- Chinese cuisine may in turn come to the enced China, all find themselves back in did costumes, traditional music, original Chinese New Year’s Concert next year as the last Chinese restaurant they visited. instruments and more than eighty musi- well. People who have been to the “Middle cians. This event became a remarkable Kingdom” might hear the whispering success shortly after it was first held in wind in the cherry trees of Hángzhou 1998. Back then, China’s Traditional along with the gentle sound of the flutes, Broadcast Orchestra had performed on visualise Guizhou’s Huangguoshu the premises of the famous Musikverein Waterfall while listening to the beats of Wien, where the Vienna Philharmonic the kettledrum and let the rhythmic Orchestra performs the annual Austrian melodies evoke the paddle stroke of a New Year‘s Concert. Since then, the Great dugout canoe gliding through a rice Chinese New Year‘s Concert has become field, with the Great Wall curling over a tradition in Austria. hills in the background. The well-filled -but not crowded- hall On the 12th of February 2010, the great was decorated with simple black and red ABBA-Show is scheduled to take place in designs, whose only elements were four auditorium D of Vienna’s town hall. And chains, each carrying three lit lampions even though a couple of Chinese fans, that shone gold and red lights. The reper- VeryVienna 7
  7. 7. The First L Chinese Traditional dances and antern Festival martial arts at the Chinese lantern festival in Vienna. Judith List in Vienna By Judith List When the Confucius Institute invites all students of the Heilongjiang University students and friends to welcome the Year of Chinese Medicine. of the Tiger, the ballroom of the After a warm welcome address by Wu University of Vienna is crowded and Ken, the Chinese ambassador to Austria, even the last seat is taken. More than 300 the colourfully dressed performers pres- guests want to attend the multifaceted ent traditional dances, different styles of performance of the 18 young artists, all Tai Chi, Qi Gong and Wu Shu, a Beijing- Opera Rap and a performance of the Huangmei-Opera. When the artists offer a short practical introduction of Qi Gong the stage is immediately filled with guests, all eager to stretch their legs and arms in all directions,. After a brilliant two-hour show, a tasting of gourmet Chinese food is scheduled. The guests had the opportunity to try, for instance, the traditional sweet rice balls known as ‘Yuanxiao’. The Confucius Institute’s first Chinese Lantern Festival ends with a relaxing glass of wine. It has been truly an evening to remember and repeat. 8 VeryVienna
  8. 8. S tep by Step Discovering Vienna’s Dancing Tradition Looking at the tradition of dancing and balls in Vienna, some might only see a decadent way for the elites to spend money. And yet, with such a wide variety of events, there is room for every Viennese to dance a night away in one of the many ballrooms. By Judith List The ballroom is illuminated, the guests them seem quite nervous. Maybe it is the are looking fabulous and everybody is first time they are opening a ball. Either tensely waiting for the opening cere- way, they have been practising for this mony. No matter if it is a less formal High moment for weeks. The choreography School ball or a traditional event, this pic- has been rehearsed many times, the ture is quite common for most Viennese forms have been elevated to perfection, balls. More than a hundred ‘debutants’ and every movement was practice, so as are standing at the entrance, ready to to be executed at the exact same time. All The debutants have to practice their steps launch another wonderful night. Some of eyes are on them and as soon as the mu- many times. Sometimes weeks in advance of the ball-evening. Stefan Bugovsky VeryVienna 9
  9. 9. Everything but ordinary – the life ball announces a new theme every year and many guests follow. Stefan Bugovsky sic starts playing, they are marching in Then, 19 years ago, Vienna’s gay commu- step, parading into the huge ballroom. nity founded the “Rosenball” (Rose-ball) The official Vienna Ball Season starts on and appointed this day for it, establish- the same day as ‘Fasching’ (Carnival), ing a new tradition. While at the State which is the 11th of November. It ends af- Opera, selected guests always dressed ter ‘Faschingsdienstag’ (also known as “black tie”, with formal tuxedos and ex- ‘Shrove Tuesday’ or ‘Mardi Gras’). From pensive floor-length ball gowns, the countless formal balls, for instance by guests at the Rose-Ball participate in a High Schools or professional groups, to huge unconventional party, which every- rarer, gigantic charity events like the “Life one is invited to join. Aside from the Life Ball”, the season is a mixture of very dif- Ball, this is a colourful benchmark of the ferent events. Carnival is when most tra- annual calendar of gay events. Catharina, ditional balls happen, although some who opened the last Viennese Opera Ball large events can occur during the rest of as a ‘debutante’ has already made an ap- the year. pointment to visit the Rose Ball next Many of those are steeped in their own year. Contrasting with the traditional long tradition. The “Wiener Opernball” white ball gown she is planning some- (Viennese Opera Ball) always takes place thing different. ”I won’t wear jeans or on the last Thursday of the season. anything ‘normal’, although that is also Possibly the most famous world-wide accepted. I still want to stick with ‘spe- and thus the one that makes the most cial’, so I will definitely wear something imitations, it has already been copied freaky, including hairdo and make-up”, and exported to New York, Dubai, Zagreb she says. and Kuala Lumpur. Many High School balls also claim specific dates and loca- “Everybody can dance!” tions as “theirs”. Their annual balls are The many dancing possibilities may also usually organised there, coordinated by be why many Viennese learn to dance the institution’s senior students. early in their lives. There are almost 30 dancing schools in Vienna, offering ball- Ball-tradition meets different room dancing courses for all age groups. lifestyles “People coming to our dancing school are The Opera ball’s history can be traced between 14 and 84 years old”, states back to the 19th century and has always Georg, dancing teacher at the “Kopetzky” been a highlight of the season for a spe- dancing school, established in 1878. It is cific segment of Viennese society. It is, now the second oldest dancing school in however, not the only event that makes Vienna. “It is important for dancers to Vienna’s ball tradition so very special. It have fun and have the opportunity to is the diversity of the offerings that does meet and connect with other people that. These grant all of Viennese society sharing the same interests”, he says. Even if the ball is intercultural, the sweets – nights of entertainment and were tradi- Meanwhile, a dancing course for seniors the “Krapfen”, a kind of doughnut – tionally organised by various ethnic and is being held in one of their studios. “Back are still a Viennese tradition. Stefan Bugovsky professional groups (the latter are the – step – Cha Cha Cha” shouts the teacher, successors of the ‘guilds’). For a long time, and although the steps are far from be- Viennese Opera Ball was the only event ing perfect, the senior dancers seem to be scheduled to take place specifically on having lots of fun. “Dancing is a hobby the last Thursday of the carnival season. we love”, a 75 year old participant states. 10 VeryVienna
  10. 10. At the “Bonbon Ball” (sweetmeat ball) the visitors might meet a lot of different traditional Austrian candies in person. Stefan Bugovsky Dancing teacher Georg is working 80 hours a week to fulfil his dream of a dancing school for everyone. Judith List “We live next door and no matter what ways have somebody to dance with. the weather is like, we are here every Second, you can debut at balls you would Friday. We also love going to balls. In fact, otherwise never afford regular tickets you can never dance all the steps you for.” Although there are several expenses learned in class there, it is too crowded. associated with attending a ball, she But still, it is fun and as long as we can thinks that everybody can do it if they dance, we will.” want. “There are some balls where you Everyone can dance, and there is no need need neither expensive gown nor tuxedo, to be perfect. “In the past, it might have and for some events tickets cost ten been something of a requirement for a Euros. Going out to a club is sometimes specific social class. These days, our more expensive than that.” courses have participants from all the walks of life”, Georg remarks. “The tradi- Celebrating variety: tion of dancing schools is about to wearing a “Dirndl”, a ball-gown change. In the past century, the focus was or a costume on etiquette; now, it is much more impor- Looking at the annually published official tant to create an area in which to spend Viennese ball calendar this might be true. one’s rare spare time away from the The beginning of the 20th century fea- stress of daily life,.” He adds that dancing tured the “Laundresses’ Ball” or the might be the perfect opposite to the on- “Coachmen’s Ball”. Today, professional line-world, in which the younger dancers groups still have balls. While subway attending courses for teens are “living”. drivers have their own ball at the town “Nowadays, meeting new people some- hall, chimneysweeps celebrate at the where, in bars or clubs, is very difficult. Parkhotel Schönbrunn and the pharma- This is why we want our dancing school cists at the Hofburg. School balls or the Stanek Dancing School Stefan Bugovsky to be a colloquial place”. Incidentally, that balls of several Universities are the stu- is how his parents met – in a dancing dents’ number one choice. Very often, the course at “Kopetzky”. Looking at Viennese dress code requires a ball gown, but the dancing schools, it seems much easier to younger crowd also occasionally attends find a life partner there than anywhere in a cocktail dress or even the “Dirndl”, a else, and this irrespective of one’s age traditional Austrian costume. Strolling group. Courses for singles are usually through the crowd at the “Inte- booked out and quite often lead to more grationsball” (Integration Ball) one might personal pairings. even spot guests wearing jeans and T- Many teenagers visit a dancing school shirts. Everyone can find his niche in the because their parents want them to. “My Viennese dancing scene. parents took me to a ball once and when I Tourists are very welcome to join the was unable to dance I decided it was time Viennese ball scene as well. One might to learn”, Catharina states and then most often identify them at the bigger demonstrates her dancing skills. and very exclusive balls at the Hofburg. Although she quit taking lessons after a Wandering through the vaulted rooms, while, she loves going to balls now. looking at the pomp that characterises According to her, being a ‘Debutante’ these dignified premises, dancing a “was a lot of fun and also has some sig- Viennese Waltz in one of the countless nificant benefits. Firstly, since you go ballrooms they probably decide it is with your dancing partner, you will al- worth visiting again. VeryVienna 11
  11. 11. The filmmuseum, where exhibitions “take place at the screen” filmmuseum L ight, Shadows and Motion Vienna’s unique Cinema Landscape With roughly 40 cinemas, Vienna is one of Europe’s main film capitals. The cinema landscape is diverse: alongside modern multiplexes, Vienna The worldwide oldest cinema still in use Anna Nitsch-Fitz’s relationship with the has many unique and prestigious arthouse cinemas, as well as the cinema is a family affair. Her own grand- oldest movie theatre in the world. mother owned one. When, in 1969, she By Fabian Kretschmer had the opportunity to take over the Breitenseer Lichtspiele, she did not think twice. “I bought the cinema at a time A normal Saturday evening at the Apollo Founded in 1905, the Breitenseer Licht- when it would clearly not make much Kino, one of Vienna’s modern multiplex spiele is only one of Vienna’s countless economic sense. Television was increas- cinemas: outside, huge placards advertise arthouse movie theatres; but is stands ingly competing and audiences stayed at the newest blockbusters; inside, there are out as the oldest of its kind in Austria and home more and more. But for me, it was long queues at the cash box. To get to the in the world. Today, it shows a different like a childhood memory,” says Nitsch- high-end cinema hall, one must traverse kind of cinema. A normal Saturday Fitz. a labyrinth. At the end, a mostly young evening goes somewhat like this: Anna Another unique arthouse cinema is the audience loiters, noisily eating popcorn Nitsch-Fitz, the 72 year old owner, sits be- Stadtkino. Seen from the outside, it looks and sipping soda. hind the little cash box by herself. On the a little bit plain. People on the street That is why Alex Schindler, a 24 year old wall there is old film memorabilia – might just pass by without noticing it. former film student, sometimes passes a super-8 cameras and posters – all of But this impression is worn,g since the Saturday evening with a different cine- which predate the 1970s. Inside the little Stadtkino is one of Vienna’s most remark- ma experience. “For me, there is too cinema hall, a handful of people are able arthouse cinemas and the oldest of much claptrap inside multiplex cinemas. sitting on wooden seats, staring at a it’s kind in Austria. It sometimes feels like a circus; that mis- small screen, which has the look of the It was founded in 1981 as a communally ses the point. In an arthouse cinema, it is original, the one that was set up when financed cinema. “The goal was not only simply about watching a special film and the old, tented mobile cinema was made to show ambitious cinematic art, in its enjoying a more familiar atmosphere.” permanent in 1909. original language with German subtitles, 12 VeryVienna
  12. 12. The Stadtkino, Viennaís most famous art- house cinema Fabian Kretschmer Anna Nitsch-Fitz, Alexander owner of Viennaís Horwarth, oldest cinema behind director of the her counter filmmuseum Fabian Kretschmer filmmuseum Haneke, winner of the 2009 Cannes unique. Martin Scorsese obviously appre- Festival Golden Palm award. ciates this as well: In 2005, he gladly took up the position of president emeritus of The cinema as a film museum the filmmuseum. Just a stone’s throw away from the And yet, this Saturday evening, arthouse Stadtkino, in the basement of the famous fan Alex Schindler nevertheless decided Albertina, lies the filmmuseum, Austria’s to visit the Apollo multiplex. “If you want only museum of cinematic art. Unlike to watch the latest blockbuster with your other film museums, it does not exhibit friends, you definitely should avoid art- cameras, costumes or other film related house cinemas” says the 24 year old. He item but the films themselves. The slo- smiles and adds: “In most of them it is gan next to the entrance should be taken even forbidden to eat popcorn and drink seriously: “The filmmuseum is a cine- a coke!” matheque. The exhibitions take place on the screen”. but also to provide it permanently to Nonetheless, the filmmuseum is much society. We archive every one of our more than “just” a cinema: “For the pub- films, acquire the rights and distribute lic, it is not so obvious that a great deal of them to all of Austria,” says Claus Philipp, our work goes into our archive. We the manager. steadily collect and restore films, particu- “We try to screen innovative new movies larly focussing on the avant-garde, Soviet which would not have the chance to be revolutionary cinema and German- shown elsewhere.” Claus Philipp’s profes- speaking exile cinema” says Alexander sional philosophy is to realize his cine- Horwath who has been operating the matic vision without any compromise, filmmuseum since 2002. which is of course not the best way to His goal is to provide a large outline of in- turn a profit. “Two thirds of our films fail ternational film history, so that every to be profitable. But still we attract inter- generation of cinephiles might get in est. I would immediately quit my job if I touch with it. The exhibits take place in had to show movies which I think are so- the so called “invisible cinema”, a room cially irrelevant” states Philipp who which is entirely black, except for the started started out as a film critic. screen. “We purposely abandoned every Nevertheless, he does not regard the decor that attracts attention. Nothing Stadtkino as an elitist institution: should distract the viewer from the im- “Actually, every movie that we show ages” says Horwath. ought to concern everybody in this coun- He does not only curate film programs. try”. The program of the Stadtkino in- Indeed Alexander Horwath is truly an cludes international arthouse movies allrounder: He holds lectures about cin- from international directors such as Jim ema for universities and schools and Jarmusch, Aki Kaurismäki and Chris publishes books and DVDs. Even interna- Marker, as well as locals like Michael tionally, the filmmuseum is absolutely VeryVienna 13
  13. 13. Youngsters visiting lectures for children H experience new cultures and gain scientific knowledge. ZOOM “ ands On, Minds On, Heart Vienna has found a New Approach to Children’s Culture Looking through children’s eyes, seeing what they want and putting that into practice is the secret and the policy of several Viennese institutions aiming to prove that cultural activities can also be suitable for kids. By Judith List “Creativity has a high acceptance in our and lasting impressions, a place to study society”, says Brigitte Rollett, Professor of the world, have fun and spend their developmental psychology at the Uni- leisure time. Children are naturally more versity of Vienna. “For children, creative curious and enthusiastic about discover- activities have to be fun and relate to ing and understanding the new worlds new knowledge. This leads to the so- that are contained in a museum. They called ‘flow’ or ‘aha-experience’.” For have the right to be seen as an important youngsters, entering a museum can be target group for cultural offerings. That museums and discovering the worlds like discovering a whole new world. A is, for example, the case for Leander, a they contain. Offering Leander cultural world of new knowledge, exciting stories four-year-old boy who loves exploring content to examine usually leads to loads of new stories and adventures to nurture his mind. These days, many Viennese institutions offer special programs for children, such as workshops, often during school holi- days. Meanwhile, famous institutions like the Viennese State Opera stage plays for youthful audiences. But few of them focus on the needs of children as much as the Dschungel theatre (jungle theatre), where youngsters are at the heart of the productions. In fact, the Dschungel has al- ready staged many performances fac- Kaspler, Pezi the bear and Dagobert toring children into the action. It is quite the dragon have usual to find professionals developing been entertaining projects and working together with generations of children. young artists. An attempt is made to Wiener Urania coax the youngest into reflecting on Puppentheater 14 VeryVienna
  14. 14. ts On!” what is happening in the show, maybe Teaching Children about Sciences even finish thoughts or answer questions and the World that have not been addressed on stage. Children are eager to learn more about lecture “How do children live in Looking at the various productions, one the world, often far more than school China?” Teaching children involves can easily recognise that this is not any can offer. Focussing on this fact an different methods. “I had to show, that random theatre, but a place where un- own University for school children things Chinese children do or play known worlds and cultures can be expe- between 7 and 12 years was founded in with exist in their own world too, that rienced. In fact, some of the plays are per- Vienna seven years ago. Youngsters the border between their two cultures formed by foreign artist groups. might also visit the Children is not stiff.” And how did she catch Vienna’s ZOOM Children’s Museum also is Museum’s lectures during the year. their interest for a two-hours lecture? an environment created specifically for Both organisations try to cover several By showing examples and by bringing children. Approaching the colourful win- topics of different sciences, adapted for a Chinese colleague and his son she dows of the museum from outside, you the young audience. While at a normal involved the audience and even set off university usually the focus is on the children asking questions. can already guess what this place is for. knowledge transfer, lectures for While the Children’s Museum offers Leander immediately wants to look at children also have to be fun. lectures during the school year, the the colourful badges. Inside, he cannot How is it possible to catch the Children’s University offers its decide where to turn and what to ex- children’s attention? “There have to be program during school holidays. amine first. A little display, featuring a topics which children are related to”, Visiting a children’s class might lead submarine that can be guided up and says Susanne Weigelin-Schwiedrzik, into trying the new knowledge out down by remote control buttons is so Professor of Sinology at the University within another project or maybe even interesting that he has to forcefully be of Vienna. She recently offered the into finding their later profession. VeryVienna 15
  15. 15. Leander is trying to solve the underwater puzzle. Judith List reminded to take his shoes off before en- European countries. In line with develop- tering the exhibit’s area. “Look, look, it ments elsewhere, two projects emerged moves!” he shouts, pressing himself first, the aforementioned ZOOM against the glass pane to study the tiny Children’s Museum and the equally noted sub’s movements. Dschungel theatre. Nowadays, these in- These days, children’s voices echo fluence the cultural scene for teenagers through a museum, saying “Show me! I and infants in Vienna the most. That want to know how it works!” They are both institutions are now located cen- voices proof that the entertainment of trally, in Vienna’s ‘Museum Quarter’ cul- youngsters has changed with time. This tural hub, is a lucky coincidence. would have been quite unusual in Founding a new institution targeting a Vienna 15 years ago. Of course, while young crowd offers many opportunities. some possibilities to entertain children One of the main benefits is that the chil- did exist, they were both rare and most dren themselves can be the starting often not attuned to their needs. point for all the projects. Thus, at the Vienna has a long tradition of puppet ZOOM, everything is tacitly designed to shows, and one can still hear children accommodate a different perception of shouting for “Kasperl” and “Pezi” to come the world: that of infants and school- on stage. These puppets were once popu- children. “Children love to play, that is lar features of shows meant for school- how they acquire knowledge”, mentions children, and most Viennese older than Elisabeth Menasse-Wiesbauer, the mu- 30 remember them clearly. The limited seum’s Director. “We think that those number of available puppet theatres, like who are led by their own interests are the Urania or the Apfelbaum (apple tree) more curious and this way they have a and the Theater der Jugend (theatre for totally different approach to the exhibi- youth), which mainly staged plays for tions.” All displays and workshops are teenagers, were more or less the only hands-on programs where discoveries barely finished her introduction when he projects geared for younger audiences. can and should be made autonomously. sets off, practically running through the They remain features of the cultural The “ZOOM Ocean” is one of those proj- first floor’s underwater world full of sea- scene today. ects: designed for visitors of up to 6 years weed, sea anemones and coral reefs. In the 1990s, opinions concerning cul- of age, it sets itself apart by being acces- Where there is a whole universe to dis- tural offerings for Viennese children sible and welcoming for toddlers. As cover, explore and touch, where should started to change. At that time, soon as he enters the dark blue and green one turn first? While smaller toddlers Children’s culture became a political cave full of fish, Leander snuggles into stay in the “under water” area down- question, and theatres for youths fol- the cuddly water-snake toy. Clearly stairs, Leander climbs on the deck of the lowed the progression observed in other everything is just right. The guide has ship, the better to catch fish, signal to the 16 VeryVienna
  16. 16. amazing for adults to find out what their children like the most.” After one hour, everybody has to go back through the came to leave… Although, nobody really seems to want to leave. “When do we come again?” asks Leander, running back into the underwater world. It is a good thing that there are many more paint- ings, films and displays on the way out, to distract him from the fact that the visit is over. The willingness to share professional creativity and knowledge with a young audience might be the distinctive feature of the Viennese cultural offerings for children. While the “Dschungel” supports projects with young performers and chil- dren working together, the “ZOOM” mainly employs young artists to teach the workshops. “The main goal is not the making of a perfect product, but tipping over into the working process without caring about what is happening around”, indicates Elisabeth Menasse-Wiesbauer. Stephan Rabl, Creative Manager and Director of the “Dschungel” theatre sees another benefit in working with and for kids: “Children will be enriched, if they have the chance to consume theatre. It can activate the potential to reveal and support creative processes or identifica- tion”. Sharing a stage with artists may be a good introduction into the field of culture, especially for toddlers. Ent- husiasm of this kind might lead to dedication and eventually offer them a lot more fun as they grow and mature. According to Brigitte Rollett, there is a huge lack of cultural reporting in the media nowadays. As a result, children need outside help to get a better under- standing of these matters. “Children who are in contact with culture benefit doubly. They have discovered the artistic On the ground level, world and therefore develop greater toddlers explore the seabed imagination and creativity, which is why Judith List they will never be bored.” While public media do not support the creative devel- lighthouse, explore an Eskimo’s life or for the adults to follow. However, this opment and interest of our youngest look into a submarine. A tube-telephone, area at least is not just for young visi- generation very much, most museums which connects several parts of the sub- tors. “Parents should have fun too. You and theatres in Vienna offer specialised marine, eventually becomes the star should never do anything you don’t like programs and are worth visiting. As attraction. After calling “Hello! Hello? with your children. Never start com- museums and creative institutions Can you hear me? Are you there?”, plaining about the exhibition. You increasingly see that children are their Leander fairly squeaks with excitement, don’t have to see the whole thing. If future audiences, they realise that it is because it ‘really works’. Meanwhile, two or three objects are fun, that’s the worth investing time, creativity and other children are hurrying from one best thing that can happen”, states money in giving them strong cultural exhibit to the next. This seems difficult Brigitte Rollett, “Sometimes it is foundations. VeryVienna 17
  17. 17. P oems, Enzis and Tomatoes – Art in Public Space The metropolis of classical music’s world is not only about violins and horse carriages – Traces of contemporary art in Vienna By Josef C. Ladenhauf You might imagine a standard city trip as walking through the streets, sipping on a soft drink, window shopping, or really any activity you might do in your own city – except in a new location. Com- mercial messages and info screens sur- round us, no matter where we are. But what happens when the ads disappear? When art leaves halls, museums and ex- hibition rooms and infects public spaces, many people feel lost. Art in public makes us question what we take for granted and what is new and unfamiliar to us. As a means of awareness and consciousness, it helps us to find out more about the Visitors listening to the live music way we live our lives. coming from the store window Photo of a Band in a store window Götz Bury Insipring Places In modernity, art is no longer exclusively Museumsquartier is also not to be for wealthy, educated elite. It became missed. It’s just five minutes’ walk from common to engage with the arts, no mat- city hall, and it’s the heart of Vienna’s ter what background or social class one contemporary art scene. No matter if you might be from. Finally, art was not just a decide to go to an exhibition in the pastime for the upper classes – it became Leopold Museum - famous for its collec- accessible to everybody. tion featuring Egon Schiele, Gustav Klimt It no longer celebrates the great master- - or the MUMOK, which has a more con- pieces only, but can happen in diverse temporary collection, you won’t be disap- contexts anytime, anywhere. Anyone can pointed. express themselves artistically. The City of Vienna encourages art in public Cinema on Public Squares spaces. Local politicians have set up an Another rather popular initiative in annual fund of 800,000 EUR to support Vienna is the promotion of arthouse art projects, such as the weekly Falter films. On squares in different districts, magazine articles. At Rathausplatz in the Volxkino takes place over the sum- front of the city hall, various events take mer. People gather in the open to watch place all year round. If you look through alternative movies together for free. the city’s arts calendar (available online), Afterwards, Austrian and foreign artists The courtyard of the Museumsquartier is there are always cultural activities, such are given the possibility to show their the place to meet on balmy afternoons Axel Maireder as concerts, readings, or cabaret. films, so as to meet a broader group of in- 18 VeryVienna
  18. 18. An Urban Intervention When Soho meets Vienna, a bustling neighbourhood becomes the stage for critical art Initiator and participating By Edith Hammer artist Ula Schneider Edith Hammer Once a year, the upscale urban neighbour- let out a song that would echo from balconies we can look at it, feel it, and, learning from hood around Brunnenmarkt in Vienna’s and roofs as it would in an alpine canyon. In that, become aware of what we really are multicultural 16th district becomes the setting addition, an exhibition explored the role of suffering because of it“, Stephen Mathewson of a two-week art festival. Ula Schneider, its work songs around the globe. explains. initiator and participating artist, describes it Under the motto “Kick the habit“, this year’s “The Barbie Trap”, an exhibit by artist as “a project that concretely intervenes in the festival, to be held in May, approaches the Elisabeth Bakambamba Tambwe is pre- city“. Soho in Ottakring is more than an art problem of racism as if it were just a common sented with the purpose of connecting with festival; over the last ten years, it has become “bad habit“. One of the exhibits aiming to the World AIDS Conference that is to be the setting of discussion and criticism. “It‘s counteract racism will be the “Prejudice hosted in Vienna later this year. It is com- not about harmonization, we also try to point Extermination Machine”. Built out of boxes, posed of pink helium balloons that refer to out conflicts“, says Mrs. Schneider. Local as wires and pipes in cooperation with local the artifices that define the feminine, in the well as international artists come together schools, visitors will be invited to feed it with context of HIV in Africa, and challenges the every year to present their works on open air their personal prejudices and then get rid of idea of women being dolls for men. stages or in empty shop windows and them by being “brainwashed”. Soho in Ottakring transforms urban area encourage visitors to participate in the into a party zone, without losing track of the International artist and musician Stephen projects. issues it aims to underline. In the words of Mathewson initiated an “Informal Research The topic of last year’s festival was “To work Lab”, where he and a team of other artists the aforementioned festival creator, “A lot of or not to work“. Among the many creative review and discuss a vast amount of material people come to hear musical acts or enjoy contributions, the “Urban Yodelling Project” on racism. The development of artistic the crowds of visitors and some people start should be mentioned. The alpine tradition of reactions to this material – in the form of participating in the discussions and deal yodelling was brought to the city. Before music, exhibits, performances or other forms with the topics. Receiving a response on the sunrise on the first day of the festival, all of artistic expression – is transparently open contents of the festival is what I call appointed singers, or “Juchezins”, gathered to to all visitors. “We cannot avoid racism, but success”. VeryVienna 19
  19. 19. terested spectators. Finally, the audience Gardening in the City exhibiting their paintings and sculptures shares a snack from the vegetarian buffet Vienna’s abandoned spaces are going in this building for more than hundred and discusses the movies seen. green! So-called ‘guerrilla gardeners’ are years now. The tradition of the Secession Brunnenmarkt in the sixteenth district is planting tomatoes, cucumbers, herbs goes back to Gustav Klimt and other a place worth visiting for anyone inter- and flowers in any spot that’s vacant. Is great artists in the times of the so-called ested in art. It is a farmer’s market sur- this art? “It’s innovative, that’s for sure. fin de siècle. As an Austrian saying goes, rounded by distinctive architecture and Something new - a movement - and it’s “plenty of water has run down the unique shops. Brunnenmarkt hosts the growing,” says Claudia Bender, a twenty- Danube” since the end of the 19th cen- annual multicultural festival Soho in three year old guerrilla gardener. She tury when it was built. Ottakring, which offers mind-blowing in- adds, “And of course it is art!” Claudia sights into the work and lives of migrants considers guerrilla gardening to be a Poems on the Bus and artists in Vienna. rather progressive contemporary form of Only a few minutes away from the art. Secession is Karlsplatz U-bahn station. As Deleting Advertising She suggests that different art styles in many European cities, the transit au- In June 2005, the Austrian art duo arise in a certain historical and social thority has started posting poems for Steinbrener/Dempf presented a work en- frame, but is echoing a famous slogan of commuters to read on their journey. In titled “delete!” where they removed or Vienna. Der Zeit ihre Kunst, der Kunst Vienna, the so-called “post-it poet” is covered all advertising from Neubau- ihre Freiheit – “Each epoch shall have its even more popular. He writes one- or gasse, an important high street in the art and art shall have its freedom” - is a two-sentence poems, and sticks them seventh district, for a period of two slogan written on Vienna’s Secession randomly in public places. They have weeks. Many people felt unsettled walk- building. This museum and its gold- been found on trees, walls, traffic lamps ing down a street with no advertising, plated cupola is one of the most famous and metro stations. Since 1974, he has with yellow foil providing the colour usu- exhibitions buildings in Austria’s capital, spread millions of his poems all over the ally given by posters, signs, lights and and a rather popular sightseeing spot for world, especially his hometown. He also banners. tourists. Contemporary artists have been received a lot of threats and complaints,
  20. 20. The pink pieces of city furniture “Enzi” in and occasionally was in conflict with the pieces of Helmut Seethalers artwork. He Museumsquartier are perfect for arelaxing law. Eventually, the Supreme Court de- is the so called “post-it poet” of Vienna, afternoon. writing tiny poems, often only one or Axel Maireder cided his poems are accredited art and are to be protected. “I won’t stop, I will two sentences, just a thought, sticking continue,” Seethaler promises. “That is them anywhere in public; at trees, on my job, that’s what I will do.” walls, traffic lamps or metro stations. Where ever you are in Vienna, try to go to Since 1974 he spread millions of his po- the city centre and listen to music stu- ems all over the world, especially his dents playing the violin on “Michaela hometown Vienna. He got a lot of threats Platz”. There, you will get the feeling that and complaints, even got into conflict art is not something that stands on its with law several times because of that, own. It is a product of history, of the art but finally the supreme court decided his that came before it - of our own develop- poems are accredited art and shall fur- ment. The old masters and the young thermore be protected. “I won´t stop, I artists of today are using the same tools, continue”, Seethaler promises. “That is playing the same instruments, and my job, that’s what I will do.” telling the same stories - all that differs is Where ever you are in the city that’s said the final work. to be “different“ and has a lot to offer besides classical arts, come also to the Poems at the Busstop center of the town and listen to the violin Only a few minutes of walk away from playing of a music student at “Michaela the secession at Karlsplatz for instance Platz”. There you get the feeling: Art is one might discover writings on the wall nothing that stands on it’s on. It is and of the metro station such as „more and has never been isolated to anything, to more violence is shown, more and more history, to other kinds of art, to our own people see violence, until they´ve seen it so development. The old masters and the often, they want to be seen themselves young artists of today are drawing the showing violence” or „the less one has same lines, playing the same tunes, than the other, the more she prentends to telling the same stories – just with have more than the other”. These are different means. VeryVienna 21
  21. 21. One N When the Museums close, ight in Vienna Vienna’s Clubs and Bars open their Doors for the Partiers. Everybody knows Vienna as the home of art, culture and Sigmund Freud. However, not many outside of Vienna are aware of the fact that Vienna offers a very vibrant and unique club and bar scene for the young at heart. By Andreas Rainer At four in the morning, Fayola is having her first bites of a Viennese Käsekrainer, a fried sausage made with small chunks of cheese, which doesn’t exist in her home country of Kenya. Anna from Germany is sipping a can of beer, while Konrad, the only Austrian in our group, is having a conversation with strangers on how to solve the economic crisis. We are in the first district of Vienna, at a Würstelstand, a place that sells sausages and cold drinks and that acts as a gather- ing point for the rich and poor, party victims and street workers of the city. “In Kenya, all the clubs look pretty much the same and play similar kinds of music. In Vienna, there is a club for every kind of music,” Fayola says of the night that lies behind us - a night which started more than six hours ago at the Schikaneder. Watching a movie, Viennese style The Schikaneder is a mix between a cin- ema, a club and a bar, one of many places in Vienna with a unique concept where one can start a Saturday night. At ten in the evening, the place is already crowded with people who came for the movie that was shown before and are now en- joying a drink at the bar. A group of people are sharing a huge birthday cake, one of them offering a piece to Anna, apparently confusing her with someone else. “Lots of students, intellectuals and artists come here to watch an artsy movie and get drunk afterwards,” Konrad explains to the non-Austrians in the group. As on most nights, a DJ is playing right in front of a wall on which a car- toon movie is projected. The sound of the movie is muted and the projection serves only as the visual backdrop for the club: it is not to be confused with the actual cinema, which is in a separate area. Who said Austrians don´t dance? 22 VeryVienna Michaela Schwarz
  22. 22. Smoking is still allowed in many clubs in Vienna Michaela Schwarz Wuzzler: Austrians suck at soccer but they rule at the foosball table Michaela Schwarz There is a dance floor next to the DJ, but nobody is dancing. The Viennese in general are not too eager to dance, espe- cially the Schikaneder crowd. Listening around, the topics of conversation are music, movies, art projects and, of course, a lot of complaining, the favourite pas- time of the Viennese. All the seats are already taken, the most sought after being right next to the entrance, where a few canvas chairs are standing on a little stage that is perfectly visible from the outside, through the glass window pane. “The Schikaneder is a place where people go to in order to be seen by other people. There must be something regal about people-watching while sitting on a stage. It is funny how the Viennese are so eager to be seen by Acting on the Artists, the Vitamins of Society, play scripts never seen strangers yet don’t want to get to know them,” Konrad adds by way of explana- First Read before © Nick Albert tion. Drama Slam since 2007: When Poetry Looking around the Schikaneder, every- Masters meet Actors Art By Michael Zita body is holding a wine glass or a beer bottle in their hands, and for most people It could have been any moment in a rehersal; it is definitely not the first drink of the actors are standing on chairs with papers in their hands and reading out : “It is a Test!” night. It gets more crowded by the “A Test?” “Don’t you realize, all the Cameras, minute, so our group decides to move on they’re watching us!” However, given the to another place that is within short large audience watching and voting for their walking distance. On the way there, two favorites, the event seems to be of a diferrent men in medieval uniforms hand us some nature: It is Drama Slam again. Jimi Lend, the concept’s creator, presents this type of society and hence important in flyers. “We would like to invite you to of theatre as follows: “Authors write short plays; everyone’s life.” come to our session tonight. We will talk actors will read up to ten different plays each [] about communist ideals and how to re- night. This is different from thousands of other implement them into today’s society,” performances because the actors have never seen one of them explains. We politely the scripts before, they play ‘prima vista’. This way, every performance is a masterpiece of im- decline. provisation.” It sounds experimental, but its suc- cess speaks for itself. The idea has already started Clothes shopping at midnight to spread around the world, with performances We arrive at our destination, a place in Berlin, Saint Petersburg and Graz. called Mon Ami. It looks like an average The City of Vienna became aware of the success and is now sponsoring the organization that initi- club at first sight, but is much more: at ated the process: The ‘Vitamins of Society’, an as- the back of the club, a door leads to a sociation founded in Moscow with the following clothing shop that is part of the club. straightforward motto: “Artists are the vitamins VeryVienna 23
  23. 23. DJ and support Michaela Schwarz F People can browse through handbags, usually from Eastern Europe. Club OST is mittens, t-shirts and many more articles enormously popular, probably due to of clothing while sipping a glass of wine Vienna’s proximity to the East and the and listening to a DJ. Anna insists on fact that the city is home to many immi- buying a red wool beret. “It matches my grants from the Balkan region. glass of red wine very well,” she says, jus- Tonight’s band comes from the Ukraine tifying the price - probably the double of and features an especially unusual per- what the beret costs at a regular clothing formance: it includes the band members, store. Her friend from Berlin backs her up all of them in their late 40s, getting on this: “You can’t put a price tag on naked on stage, cheered on by enthusias- shopping at midnight while enjoying a tic chanting from the audience. What’s glass of Chateau, I guess. That is what more, they address the crowd after al- fascinates me about Vienna. You don’t most every song - in Ukrainian. “I guess find these kinds of places, even in Berlin. language barriers vanish as long as the Vienna always manages to put an artsy music is good enough and the alcohol side into everything.” doesn’t run out,” Konrad yells over the At half past one, it is time to turn up the screaming guitar riffs. heat a little bit and finally move to a Every night comes to an end, and ours place where even the Viennese dare to ends rather early by Viennese standards dance. at the Würstelstand. Anna just ordered another round of beer and Konrad and Balkan fever in Vienna his new friends still haven’t figured out In Club OST, the locals mingle up with an how to solve the economic crisis. eastern European crowd, who are so ea- Long before the Würstelstand closes, we ger to dance and party that even the make our way home using the conven- Viennese can’t continue hiding behind ient Nightline system, which on Satur- their beer bottles. They start hitting the day night seems more like another club dance floor. The music seems to be ex- than a means of public transport. It never actly the same on every weekend: Balkan takes long to get home, which reminds beats mixed with electronic music, us again that while Vienna is big enough everything that gets people moving, per- to get lost in for a night, it is always small formed by DJs and one or two bands, enough to find your way out again. Buying the perfect party outfit while partying Michaela Schwarz 24 VeryVienna