Seams and stitch classification

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  • The stitch types from this class are formed from one or more needle threads, and are characterized by interlooping.One ore more loops of thread are passed through the fabric and secured by interlooping with a succeeding loop or loops after they are passed through the fabric. Simplest stitch type is 101, which is formed from a single thread, in this type of stitch class last loop should locked properly so it avoid unraveling of thread or stitch. Also if any skip stitch or broken stitch in between will also unravels the stitch.These stitch are easily removed so they used in ‘baisting’ operation in tailored menswear and womenswear garments. Stitch type 101 from 100 class is mainly used in baisting and embroidery.Stitch type 103 from class100 mainly used for blind stitching, utilizes a curve needle in order to, successively penetrate partially into the fabric, and then into the hem edge.
  • The stitch type in this class originated as hand stitches and are characterized by single thread which is passed through the material as a single line of thread, and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the fabric.Due to economically expensive these are mainly used for tacking and other temporary stitching.
  • The stitch type in this class are formed with two or more groups of threads, and have for a general characteristic the interlacing of the two or more groups.Lockstitch has enough stretch for most purposes, provided that suitable thread is used, and enough stretch, when correctly balanced.The lock stitch is secure because the breaking of one stitch in wear will not cause the whole row to unreavel and additionally the end of a line of stitching can secured by reversing or ‘backtacking’.
  • The stitch this type are formed with two or more group of threads. One group of threads are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and interlooping with loops of another group.One group is normally referred to as the needle threads and the other group as the looper threads.Compare to lock stitch this stitch type are better production output and less thread breakage and some amount of stretch obtained.
  • The Stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and have as a general characteristic that loops from at least one group of threads pass around the edge of the material.
  • Seams and stitch classification

    1. 1. Seams and stitch classification
    2. 2. ON TARGET Seams and classification What is Seam? A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment. Properties of good seam are, sewn ¥ ¥ ¥ Smooth fabric joints No Missed or Uneven stitches No damage to the material being ¥ Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort ¥ Comfortable while garment is in
    3. 3. ON TARGET Seams and classification SEAM CONSTRUCTION– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes: (SI Seam) neatening Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam Class Class Class Class Class 2 3 4 5 6 -Welt seam or Lapped seam -Bound seam -Channel seam or flat seam -Ornamental seam -Turned hem or edge Class 7 -Edge stitched seam
    4. 4. ON TARGET Seams and classification SEAMS DESIGNATION Each stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits: 8; 0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1- 0.00.00 refers to the material configuration, 01 to 99; 0.00.00 refers to needle
    5. 5. ON TARGET Seams and classification PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM • Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component. • Each component is limited on the same end.
    6. 6. ON TARGET Seams and classification PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM- * In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlaid, one on top of the other with raw edges aligned and sewn together at a designated distance from the raw edge, with one or more rows of stitching. * Produce a single or two step operation * most common for apparel production
    7. 7. ON TARGET Seams and classification PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED SEAM-
    8. 8. ON TARGET Seams and classification * Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. * One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.
    9. 9. ON TARGET Seams and classification •In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching. * Used for: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
    10. 10. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    11. 11. ON TARGET Seams and classification Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends.
    12. 12. ON TARGET Seams and classification * In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam allowance of one ore more plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching. * Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the
    13. 13. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    14. 14. ON TARGET Seams and classification Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each other on the same level.
    15. 15. ON TARGET Seams and classification * In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or just slightly overlapped and joined together with stitching that covers the joint. Flat seams do not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing thread quantity. * Used for: close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie, thermal underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side
    16. 16. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    17. 17. ON TARGET Seams and classification A seam class for decorative sewing on garments. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.
    18. 18. ON TARGET Seams and classification * In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by creating straight or curved lines or a designated design. * Used for: adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching
    19. 19. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    20. 20. ON TARGET Seams and classification Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening. Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge on one end.
    21. 21. ON TARGET Seams and classification •In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the classification. first, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back. -second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded. -third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges.
    22. 22. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    23. 23. ON TARGET Seams and classification A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.
    24. 24. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    25. 25. ON TARGET Seams and classification Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are applied on its edge/s. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge on two ends.
    26. 26. ON TARGET Seams and classification
    27. 27. ON TARGET Stitch and classification What is stitch? British standard 3870, defines stitch as: One units of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping, Interlooping or passing into or through the fabric or material. Intralooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by the same thread. Interlooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a different thread. What is Stitch type? A series of recurring stitches of one configuration is defined as a stitch class or type.
    28. 28. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Single Thread Chainstitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 101 Class One Thread Basting, or light construction 103 Class One Thread Blindstitch for Hemming 104 Class One Thread Blindstitch for Hemming
    29. 29. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Single Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 202 Class One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs 205 Class One Thread Pick Stitch Topstitching
    30. 30. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Two or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 301 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies 304 Class Two Thread Zig-Zag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch 306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch Two Threads "Three Step Zig-Zag; a stretch lockstitch with more stretch 315 Class
    31. 31. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Multi-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and One or More Looper Threads Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 401 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch 404 Class Two Threads Topstitching or Seaming with stretch Three Threads "Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater) stretch chainstitch 406 Class
    32. 32. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 501 Class One Thread One Needle Overedge stitch for Serging / "Blanket Stitch" 502 Class Two Thread One Needle Overedge stitch for Serging Two Thread Overedge stitch for Serging with Crossover on Edge of Fabric 503 Class
    33. 33. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) Stitch Diagram Stitch Class 504 Class 512 Class c 514 Class Thread Count Typical Uses Three Thread Overedge stitch for Serging and Light Seaming Four Thread Mock Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits Four Thread Overedge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits
    34. 34. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s) Stitch Diagram Stitch Class 515 Class 516 Class Thread Count Typical Uses Four Thread True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits Five Thread True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Wovens and Knits
    35. 35. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Multi-Thread Coverstitches Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses 602 Class Four Thread CoverStitch or Seaming Knits 605 Class Five Thread CoverStitch or ButtSeams 607 Class Six Thread Wide CoverStitch or Butt-Seams
    36. 36. ON TARGET Stitch and classification Single Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin Stitch Diagram Stitch Class 701 Class Thread Count One Thread Typical Uses Lockstitch Tacking
    37. 37. ON TARGET Stitch, Seams and classification

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