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  • 1. Food and people
  • 2. THE NEW REVIEW Food Special SUPER NATURAL A reverence for raw produce and simple cooking techniques heralds a new back-to-basics culinary movement 7 JUNE 2009 THE INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY Plus The ultimate Japanese restaurant, summer cocktails and Skye Gyngell’s gorgeous greenery IOS REVIEW BLACK CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW
  • 3. Food Special BACK TO NATURE What happens when you get eleven of the world’s best chefs, take them to a forest and make them forage for their ingredients? Terry Durack reports on the raw food, raw energy and raw passion of ‘SuperNatural’ eating PHOTOGRAPHS BY PER -ANDERS JORGENSEN A t the World Business Summit in Copenhagen foraged samphire, and topped with a “toxic scum” of lemony two weeks ago today, the UN Secretary-General foam;achilling, and chilled, indictment of how we are despoil- Ban Ki-Moon urged the business leaders of ingourenvironment. I tasted it gingerly, thinking that I might the world to do what they could to reduce green- die; but it was as fresh and exhilarating as a sea-salty breeze. house gases. At the same time, just across town, Bottura was one of 11 celebrated chefs drawn from the US, in a converted whale-blubber warehouse in Christianshavn, Italy, the UK, Spain, Germany, France and Japan to Rene some of the greatest chefs in the world were coming up with Redzepi’s ground-breaking Noma restaurant in the Danish their own, edible responses to climate change. capital for Cook it Raw!, a culinary think-tank culminating Massimo Bottura, the two-Michelin-starred chef of Italy’s in a banquet created from raw food, native Danish ingredi- Raw of approval: Osteria Francescana, created a dish for the occasion entitled ents, minimum heat and low-energy cooking. The chefs, Tartare BC (beef served “Pollution”. “I read a report describing how our oceans will who have notched up 20 Michelin stars between them, rep- in bark) by Davide look in 2050,” he said. “There will be no sea bass, no life on the resented numbers one, three, 11, 13, 31 and 40 in the 2009 Scabin; left, Claude sea bed, just giant squid and seaweed.” Moved by this bleak World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Bosi’s spider-crab dish picture, he created a cold, primeval pool of swampy green Most of the dishes were produced using little or no and grey juices – made from oyster, squid, monkfish liver and conventional energy. That meant no food processors, ‘ 8 7 JUNE 2009 I THE INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY IOS REVIEW BLACK CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW IOS REVIEW BLACK CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW
  • 4. Jorgensen Photography Per-Anders Jörgensen pa@jorgensen.se +44 20 8816 8716 +46 705 231494