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  1. 1. Little book of art and words
  2. 2. Along the lake lies the crasher, thrown upon the shore among the rockers and slappers and beaters. Gulls do their screaming, sleet covers the tracks in the sand. Walking on water to measure the fall of the sun from the sky and turn and bend down to lick the fire in the dirty
  3. 3. wind crusted snow. It warms , it cools, night falls, the stars come out and the taillights glow red upon the exit. Great Harbour Deep They are great fans of Be a Millionaire tv show MV Lady Rosella Regina B The crew let everyone into the wheelhouse that wanted to. Then they let the baby of a big reunion group have its picture taken as if steering the wheel Grey Islands Note: Paul sez there are no moose on the island so what I saw was a caribou. July 20, 2000 The same seal came back last night or this morning.I was watching this light gray rounded rock since daybreak which looked likea caribou lying on its side in front of the cabin. Then about 7:30 when Doug went out to crush our “ t in ” cans he startled it. It is light gray area underneath, with dark grey spots, darker grey head and upper
  4. 4. side. It swam all around cove whining and barking at times. This must be his or her cove. It crawled up on the rock again, and slept under our slanted lines of drying clothes. The little duck came back. Beautiful clear morning. [boat came about 1:30-2:30] I was sketching the elusive fireweed, green orchid and the bakeapple and pitcher plants (see previous pages sketches) near the old recovered cemetery when I heard and saw a speck like the Bromley boat far in the distance. Ran back most of the way down the old grassy road to tell Doug. We had just got back from hiking the hill behind the cabin where views from the top were wonderful (see sketch on earlier page). Looks like Disneyland — like a Magic Kingdom, all the ponds and islands. Found a caribou antler and a fox jawbone up there. Found more berry plants of unknown type this time way up on a peak (i.e. just a hill) that had a cairn. Doug heard a chickadee there.
  5. 5. Notes: Butterfield Group Tours — Paul brought them over but they had their own guide Sea stacks, steep waves, whales, bird isles, iceberg, crabmeat, cabin When Paul finally came to fetch us we saw why he was so late as there were a great many people on his boat. All except a honeymooning couple, Jackie and Brett, were with a high class tour company called Butterfield Tours. From talking to most of them they seemed weel-to-do and were spending over $4,000 each for the tour of Newfoundland. They were using the Tuckamore Lodge for a while and Barb Genge had even made the honeymooning couple move to a different room to accommodate the big group somehow, and they were feeling neglected by Barb. They had gotten to go out in Hare Bay in kayaks Labrador Coast First day, Tuesday,(July 25, 2000) we round the tip of the Northern Peninsula and cross Belle Strait and get to Red Bay. There are about
  6. 6. 5 small Viking boats here, crewed by Swedes and Norwegians or ? and one big motorized Viking boat. They are all in authentic gear. Some have wooden shields and plastic caps for fun. One boat’s dragon head prow has red reflector eyes which may even light up (?). There are a couple dragon heads.I check out the Basque boat they found recently and the big paintings of whaling in the 2 museums. I check out a tiny wooden craft shop with a wood heater and a bigger shop with an eatery. I cross the marsh to the Red Bay Airport. It’s bare and open and desolate and there are no trees. This is the end of the road. It’s sunny mostly but then a fog rolls in. When we take off the ship has to use its fog horn and its foggier out to sea. Mary’s Harbour, Port Hope Simpson – we anchor here overnight, mosquitoes infest the ship, we watch Smilia’s Sense of Snow — I less than Doug, trying to sleep but mosquitoes keep me up,[Pinset’s Arm, Charlottetown] July 26
  7. 7. Next morning at breakfast there is a huge iceberg right next to the ship — several stories high — and probably equal or more below the surface. I was able to watch it for a long time. We were eating breakfast with Betty the biologist and by the time I get up on deck I do not get many photos of it. Doug and Betty see it go by in the portholes by their table. Betty handed me a slip of paper with the entire common names and Latin names for a flower we’d discussed earlier. At Pinset’s Arm it is not deep enough for the Ranger to get to a dock so all skids of groceries and supplies are taken ashore in a bout 5 trips with a dory (motorboat) with 2 fellows. A crane lowers the skids. The Ranger takes on skids of fish products of different kinds and we find out little the tour guide knows – disheartening, but we didn’t pay for her services anyway. One of the crew pulls out a conche/whelk? out of the cases being sent out to be processed to show the tourists what it looks like. Most villages have some type
  8. 8. of “ fish ” plant-can be crab, shrimp, fish, fish eggs or other. The plants have huge tanks of fuel. The skids of supplies for Norman Bay also have to be unloaded this way to a few boats. One is a skid of crab pots. We see lots more Innu and/or Innuit and/or Metis people. A lot of them are weathered older men. At one point a snowmobile is hoisted to the wharf. There are skids of Frito Lay products for every village. Often things appear precarious but they know just what they can get away with. At Norman Bay a larger family, a little worn at the edges and with their curly black happy dog and many taped boxes in tow, go ashore by boat. At one point a box gets dropped by a young boy and there is the sound of shattering glass. The variety of and handling of the freight is so real and fascinating. The Northern Ranger draws a crowd of scrambling pick-up trucks, ATV’s, people on foot and bicycle, kids, old folks, relatives. Once some youths set up a table of pottery for sale. It is a tiny carnival every 12 days. Once there is a real hot dog stand of
  9. 9. some sort. Fishing boats of different sizes going in and out. The 2 dark-haired fellows from earlier turn out to be off-shore fishermen who work on a boat which returns to St. Anthony where they take the Ranger to their home in Black Tickle, where on of them will take a smaller boat to Goose Bay to get his wife at her job. The other lives with an aunt and he talks to Doug a while about 30 foot waves and rough seas preventing them from even drinking a cup of coffee. At Indian Tickle we finally say goodbye to Nickie, the scruffy white dog and his big family who get off into small bobbing boats. It’s very dark and foreboding, thw water quite choppy and there is no village to be seen. At Black Tickle I see a new pink flower — see sketch of 7/16. There are huge flat rounded boulders and no trees. They are working on adding to the fishplant. We dock at Cartwright, but before we do we see a huge wonderful display of Northern lights — they even pulse and the curtain dances after a while. (see sketch)
  10. 10. There are tons of icebergs, most a distance away, but sometimes you can see 15 at a time. We sight several whales – their spouts — and once one is flipping and smacking its tail. Someone sights puffins. Someone explains Canadian civics to us in the cafeteria but it is so baffling and complex we almost immediately forget. Another mid- older couple, tall, fit and greying, have a cool aeronautical map and tell me all their Labrador adventures and an ocean-going canoe. Later I notice (they’re active readers) they have dropped 2 bookmarks on the seats and in handing them to them I see the name Northern Books, George Luste — someone I was thinking of contacting for NF and LAB books since he was recommended by Gary Conover. I say this to this couple and he says, “ I am George. ” July 27 Rigolet