The Surfboard really has no creator Originor inventor but has been around wayback dating around 1000 A.D.Most believe that it originated inPolynesia, primarily in the islands ofHawaii.The earliest documentation was Direction of Currentaround 1760 when explorer CaptainJames Cook witnessed surfboardingin Tahiti and Hawaii where theycalled it He’Nalu, or wave sliding.
How It WorksWell first of all the board has to be made of some type oftype of buoyant material obviously so that it does notsink. Back in the day they were strictly made of woodbecause they did not have the newer materials peopleuse today such as the polyurethane or polystyrene foamthat is covered with layers of fiber glass.Now how it works is quite simple. The board has rearfins that help in stabilization and balance. When a surferis on top of a wave the current pulls him along and thewater flow goes down the board from front to back andsplits at the which causes the stabilization effect for Finswhenever the surfer stands up once they reach the crestof the about-to-form wave.It seems simple but can be very difficult to do.It takes alot of skill to be able to keep balance on the board and tobe able to maneuver and turn. Water Flow
The PhysicsThe physics of the board really just comes fromthe buoyancy of the board and the current ofthe ocean which carries the surfer along. Theboard floats and has the fin for maneuverabilityand the wave and current is what pushes thesurfer and the board and causes the gliding onthe water. But the key to surfing, obviously, isthe surfer and the balance. The main physicsconcept in surfboarding comes from thehuman ability to balance themselves on theboard and the ability to shift your body weightaround to turn and do different moves or trickswhile on the wave.