Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page. c. 1870 - 1900 THE BUSTLE PERIOD AND THE NINETIES C H A P T E R F O U R T E E N Check for updates on the web now!
From 1870 to 1890 was named after the bustle , the predominant feature of women’s dresses. The Bustle Period
Technology allowing the cutting of many garment pieces at the same time.
The way clothing was produced and sold began to change. Contributory to these changes were: “ Circular knife (Wolf type A) was patented in 1888 and cut one thickness of cloth.” 1 “ Wolf Model 2279 used a thin vertical blade action to cut three thicknesses of cloth.” 2
At the same time, the influx of immigrants provided workers and consumers for the clothing industry.
Department stores and mail order catalogs provided new ways of selling clothing.
While the rapid changes in women’s clothing styles were readily apparent, changes in men’s clothing from 1870 to 1900 were more subtle.
Men, too could wear combinations or union suits.
Men could choose from more types of jackets. Generally the type of jacket worn was related to the formality of the occasion.
An innovation in evening wear was the tuxedo, made with a sack jacket and first worn in the 1880’s.
For golf and other sports activities, knickers were worn.
The basic styles, such as the Chesterfield and frock coats, changed little, but lengths varied. More exotic styles included the Inverness and the Ulster .
Hair and Headdress Derby Top Hats Fedora Straw Boater
Footwear Oxfords Tennis Shoes Balmorals Congress Boot Bicycle balmorals
Additional Accessories Collars Ties and Ascots Gloves Pince Nez Walking Sticks
Bustles appeared in the dresses of young girls as well as adult women.
Little boys still wore skirts, then graduated to any of several types of suits.
The popularity of a children’s book, Little Lord Fauntleroy, led mothers to dress their sons in costumes similar to those of the book’s hero.
Throughout Victoria’s reign emphasis on propriety and custom was strong. Emphasis on a strict code for mourning dress was one example. As the century ended, Victoria’s reign was coming to end, and so were the strict customs that regulated the mourning dress that would be put on at her death.
For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http:// www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum http:// www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http:// www.camrax.com Museum of the City of New York. Images from several exhibits. www.mcny.org /collections Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Smithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC http://americanhistory2.si.edu/costume/fullindex.cfm Cornell University Costume Collection http:// char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http:// digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html 19th Century Shoes http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and_Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm
For Further Study Veblen’s Theory Of The Leisure Classes http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/pembfun/vebleis7.html Bustles http://www.fashion-era.com/bustles.htm#Bustles Art Nouveau http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/a/artnouveau.html http://www.artelino.com/articles/art_nouveau.asp Aesthetic Dress http://www.gbacg.org/aesthetic_dress_inspirations.htm http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/british_galleries/bg_styles/Style08a/objects/object5_1.html Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900 . New York: Theater Arts Books. Waugh, N. 1994. The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930 . New York: Theater Arts Books.
Image Credits Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, [ www.antiquedress.com ]. Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, [ www.trousseau.net ]. Various images, courtesy of [ www.farthingales.on.ca ]. Various dress images, courtesy of [ www.antique-fashion.com ]. Image of 1890's Butterick Pattern. Ladies' nine gored flare skirt, in round, clearing or shorter length, courtesy of, [ http:// www.vintagemartini.com ]. Various Hat Images, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ]. Image of Wolf Cutting Equipment, courtesy of [ http:// www.moah.org/exhibits/archives/stitches/tech.html ]. Image of Woman with bustle, by Hall, [ http:// mywebpages.comcast.net/saretzky ]. Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, c. 2005, [ www.antique-lace.com ]. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library;