Senior graduation project power point
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  • Ancient times: form images on walls in darkened rooms; image formation via a pinhole 16th century: Brightness and clarity, improved by enlarging the hole inserting a telescope lens 1826: creates a permanent image
  • Body of the camera - the main part, usually a box type of shape Film Holder - uses to hold the film, now digital so it would be the memory card. Aperture - is the hole in the body to let light in that the picture comes though onto the film holder
  • Pinhole Cameras - the most basic camera. It is a light tight sealed box with a very small hole in it, a tip of a thumb tack small. Home made usually. What are the advantages - that it is very light and cheap. A person could make one and not have to go out and buy one. It also can be very small to fit in small places. What are the disadvantages - only can take one picture then need to develop the negative in the camera. Harder to get the right exposure.
  • Looks “natural”, like a real life photograph Can adjust the focal length to zoom in and out Are popular because they combine a range of focal lengths into one lens For example a 50-135mm zoom, is like having a 50mm, 85mm, 105 mm all in one They came out after the basic lens, where that lens couldn’t zoom at all just had one focal length, most common and basic lens used with photographers Used with events and parties. Advantages are generally faster, designed with wider maximum apertures to admit the max amount of light. They are also lighter and cheaper. 50 mm is normal eye vision looking around room Disadvantages - No effects,only can shoot as low as 24mm, nothing wider then that. -Here are some pictures I have taken
  • Can adjust the focal length to zoom in and out Used a lot with landscapes, and shooting in small areas and want to get all in one type of shot. The only disadvantage I can find about a wide angle lens is that the image can be smooched so the object seems it be tall and skinny or wider then normal. Gives you the ability of shooting a large area of space in a relatively short distance. A wide angle lens mm starts at around 10mm, they make a 9mm lens but that is not really used and hard to find.
  • A lens that takes an extremely wide image There are different levels of fish eye lens. They can range from 6mm to 20mm. Originally used for meteorology to study clouds. The reason they call it a fish eye is because a fishes eye can see up to 160* and a fish eye lens is about 170* on average. - A wide-angle lens that takes an extremely wide image. Used a lot with skateboarding Good for 180 degree shots Been manufactured since 1970’s.
  • (my stuff)
  • Has a long focal length what you would see on the side lines of a football game or sports event or to zoom far away. Mm range anywhere from 105- up to 1400 which is the biggest Big in sports photography Has long focal length that seems to bring things closer
  • Can use for normal shots but the closest shots are more sharp. Has a short focal length so can focus on the object is used for close up shots, such as flowers, bugs, etc.
  • Flashes of yesterday Ignited by a few volts of electricity, usually from a small battery switched on by detector in the camera shutter. Not used much anymore, now we use electronic flashes Bulb that produces powerful lighting in burst short enough to freeze most movement.
  • The flashes used today Electrical circuitry is much more costly than for bulbs, but electronic flash units uses rechargeable batteries in a power pack forming part of the head. Gives thousands of flashes from the same gas-filled tube.
  • Helps support the camera for long time exposures, or for multi shots like in a photo shoot. Must be strong, firm and allow as much adjustment of height and angle as possible. Advantages Can use to leave shutter speed opened for a long period of time. When doing long photo shoots and have heavy equipment can rest it on a support. Disadvantages- have to carry it around. Extra weight and or space
  • Protective Filters UV Filters - Absorbs ultraviolet rays. Gives cleaner, sharper pictures with less haze. Also serves as a permanent lens protector. Sky Filters - Reduces blush tones in outdoor shots. Keeps skin tones natural and free of reflection from nearby objects. Also serves as a permanent lens protector. Clear Protector Filters - Protect your valuable lenses from expensive front element damage which can be caused by dirt, scratches, and cross threading. Polarizing Filters- Essential for outdoor photography; deepens intensity of blue skies; reduces or eliminates glare. Circular Polarizing filters are used on auto focus cameras. Filters and Linear Focus - Used on non-auto focus cameras. Neutral Density Filters Neutral Density Filters - Reduces the amount of light without affecting the color. Eliminates overly bright, washed out images. Great for video. Split Field Filters - One-half of the picture receives a close-up effect while the other half is normal. Special Effect, MultiVision, and Mirage Filters - For special effect photography. Rainbow Spot Filters - Diffract each tiny point of light into a rainbow of color. Sepia Filters - Give a nostalgic effect to otherwise ordinary color or black & white photographs. They have a sharp central image with a pleasant blurring of the outer field. For special effect photography. Center Spot, Soft Spot, and Color Spot Filters - The center has a clear spot, while the outside can be used as a portrait filter or color. Softener Filters - Gives a soft gradation image, with focal point somewhat retained. Colored Filters- Tone correction; improves contrast. Ideal for landscapes.Half of the filter colored and half clear. Used to correct the greenish tone that appears when fluorescent lighting is present. Warming & Cooling Filters- These filters are for color photography in artificial light. Filters used to create a warming effect (reduces blues, increases reds).Filters used to create a cooling effect (reduces reds, increases blues).Filters used to create a warming effect (reduces blues, increases reds).
  • Used to measure the f-stop and for the shutter speed for your lighting for your camera; Measurers the light falling on or being reflected by a subject. Most modern cameras have a exposure meter built in to the camera. There are all different types of meters but all basically do the same thing by measuring the proper f-stop. Use mostly in studio photography.
  • you can adjust the death of field in three way, the focal length, aperture, and how close the subject is to the camera. You can often choose how much of your image will be sharp. Small Aperture more death of field, Large aperture, less death of field Shorter the focal length of the lens, greater the death of field The father you are from a subject, the greater the death of field Competently sharp from foreground to background, totally out of focus except for a shallow zone, or sharp to any extent in between.
  • How hot If it is to warm it will have a yellow-ish tint to the picture. If it is to cool it will have a blue-ish tint to the photograph. Digital cameras can adjust themselves for color temperature. Goes by the Kelvin color temperature scale, used to measure the warmness or coolness of a photograph.
  • Divide your scene into an imaginary “tic-tac-toe” grid, then place your subject near the of the four intersections. Used to make a more attractive picture, divide the picture into a grid. It make any picture look more appealing to the eye. If the subject land on the crossing on any of the lines it fallows the rule of thirds.
  • Diagonal lines are especially good for force change. Use them to lead the viewer to the subject, guide the viewer across the frame or create “vanishing points”.
  • The S-curve is a classic compositional device to create a sense of grace. Give moving subjects space to go. Don’t place them so they are about to run off the frame.
  • Don’t cut off any part of their body Don’t have things growing out of their head, such as telephone poles,trees, etc. Tell a story with your photo
  • Depends on shutter speed, aperture, and ISO With longer exposure you can get some cool effects, such as lightning, at night you can get those streaks in the road made by cars, or even write something with light, such as a mane. Have you ever seen pictures where something is spelled out in light? Well that was done with a long exposure time. When waterfalls are shot they are usually shot with a longer exposure to get the movement of the water over the rocks. Exposure time has to do with the shutter speed set on the camera.
  • How Fast Ranges from 1/1600 of a second to as long as the photographer wants.
  • How Much the lens is opened. With depth of field if have a small f stop (which is the size of the opening) you can get a small depth of field (which is the blurred back round)
  • How sensitive Higher the number, the less light it needs for a correct exposure. (not to light or dark) The lower number of the ISO the higher-quality of the picture. Usually an ISO of 100-200 id for shooting outside in the sun, and sunny conditions. The dimmer light conditions like inside generally use 400 ISO or higher A negative about film is the whole roll of film is fixed to one film speed. When a high ISO like 3200 you wouldn’t need a flash when taking pictures at night, because it is sensitive to light Ranges from 100 to 3200 ISO A high ISO is useful when light is dim. It will help you shoot at a fast enough shutter speed to stop motion or at a small enough aperture to give adequate death of field. A tripod can steady a camera for long exposures Higher ISO more noise :(
  • -This effect is generally not planned or wanted. -Caused by the the brightness of the sun shinning directly into the lens of the camera. -Lens flare was one of the first special effects developed for computer graphics. -A lens flare is often deliberately used to invoke a sense of drama. A lens flare is also useful when added to an artificial or modified image composition because it adds a sense of realism, implying that the image is an un-edited original photograph of a "real life" scene. -
  • Nature is the best source of color, harmony, and pattern. Such as trees, foliage, worn timber, corroded metal, stones and sand For a photograph to pop out at some one and make them turn their head it would help to have pattern and harmony in a photograph. Pictures with color harmony and pattern are the type of pictures that are displayed in a office building, hospital, or a professional setting to make it more relaxing and enjoyable for there clients, patterns is all over, which may be determined but building materials, local methods of construction, the building’s actual use, to by time-honored designs characteristic of a building functions.
  • Use different shades of one color. Could do in Photoshop or taken real life Blue is a relaxing and cooler color Red is more of a warmer color, as a hot day or a hot stove is red. Used a lot in the drawing field with paintings and pastels Part of the color theory clericalism. Range of colors consists of shades of a single color or hue. Can be adjusted in Photoshop by using the Color Balance tool where a photographer can adjust the colors and tone balance with the shadows, midtones, and highlights.
  • Point of view can help the photographer have a more interesting photograph. This is what makes a professional photographer. A ‘professional photographer’ is usually the one looking dumb by laying on the ground, standing on one leg balanced on something leaning over. To make an interesting shot a photographer needs to be creative and by doing so be unique so no one else has a shot like yours and that shot stands out, so can be remembered.
  • Following the subject by moving the camera with it. Used with speeding objects such as NASCAR, trains, a guy on a bike or car. Used to get the effect of a blurred background with a clear crisp subject. Freezes the subject. The secret to panning is focus on where the subject will be before it gets to you. This way when it is near it will be in focus and not blurred or out of focus. (Show class example with camera)
  • Backdrops -There are different kinds of backdrops in studio photography, it all depends on the subject and the reason for being photographed. Shooting patriots of people and animals, set up lighting and have control of it. Set subject up in different possessions.
  • All photography used to be black and white with film then they came out with color film, and now with digital you can shoot a picture and Photoshop it to black and white. By making an image black and white it give the image a more dramatic effect and can show emotion. Even though an image is black and white it still can be adjusted a lot with adjusting the darkness of the channels, which if it is a RGB image you have three, Red Green and Blue and by adjusting these you can make three totally different images.
  • Be careful with filters, they can be like candy, it is easy to do but it can sometimes destroy a picture. Photoshop has hundreds of filters, and each one can be adjusted in thousand ways. I use filter all the time with my shoots from shooting shows. Filters are automatic and often exotic image control.
  • Used to remove any and wanted things in a picture. Used with models and magazines everyday. Removes unwanted acne, blemishes, redness, etc. Used also if you are repairing an old photograph, if there is a rip in a photograph of just a really old photograph scanned in a computer and it is grainy and has unwanted spots, they can be removed digitally in Photoshop with the healing brush tool Adobe came out with this tool in Photoshop elements 3.
  • Contrast is the the range of optical density and tone on a photographic negative or print. With it usually is that you can adjust the brightness of a photograph. When adjusting a photograph’s contrast it usually brings adjusting the brightness of that photo. Used a lot in band photography, I know I do, it makes it a more pretty shot.
  • Tool to enhance the image quality. Used to fix a photograph and make the darks darker the lights lighter and fix the midtones in a photograph. Like levels and contrast and brightness in Photoshop but is all in one really. Can adjust the RGB’s (red, greens, and blues) and control the brightness to make it pop. The most effective what of editing an image. Used by most photographers, others use layers and then go into contrast and brightness, which is harder but is more old fashion and some photographers prefer it their own way, I am one of them, even though I should make it easy on myself. Can set an command that it will make the same adjustment on a group of hundred in one easy click, which come in handy for parties and photo shoots. Levels- As like a tool in Photoshop called curves, but does not do as much as it. I prefer this instead because it is something I always used and am used to it. I am not the only one who prefers to use it, as my tech school teacher does too. (Show a before and after shot) Disadvantages: Can over do an image by making the darks to dark or the light too light. also sometimes a people want to see the original and may not agree with the photographers choice of editing, and also when an image is adjusted currently a person can not tell if an image was touched up.
  • Make that spot burning darker, can make nice effects. Can be used to put eyeliner on a model in Photoshop. Also can make special effects for example make a person look like a zombie Darken an area, as a sky or an area.
  • Photobucket.com
  • http://192.168.7.18/ContentFiltering/Blocked.aspx?id=13882447417233749205

Senior graduation project power point Presentation Transcript

  • 1. Steve Davidson Photography: Equipment and Techniques
  • 2.
    • What is photography?
    • Lenses
    • Equipment
    • Techniques
    • Tips
    • Photoshop
    Overview
  • 3.
    • Photography has progressed a large amount due to new equipment and techniques, as well as changes that help photographers to have more unique and interesting shots.
    Thesis
  • 4. History of Photography First Photo by: Sir John F.W. Herschel in 1839 - From the two Greek words drawing with light. - “The art or process of producing images on a sensitized surface (as a film) by the action of radiant energy and especially light.” - Merriam-Webster.com ( azuswebworks)
  • 5. Parts of a Camera Diagram:
    • Every camera has three basic parts.
      • Body
      • Film holder
      • Aperture (hole to let light in)
    (Mr. Patton)
  • 6. Pinhole Cameras
  • 7. Zoom Lens (McCarthy)
  • 8. Zoom Lens
  • 9. Wide-angle Lenses (www.ehow.com)
  • 10. Wide-angle (Google Images)
  • 11. Fish Eye Lenses (www.ehow.com)
  • 12. Fish Eye
  • 13. Telephoto Lens (London, Stone)
  • 14. Telephoto (Google images)
  • 15. Macro Lens (Hedgecoe)
  • 16. Bulb Flash (Hedgecoe)
  • 17. Electronic Flashes (Hedgecoe)
  • 18. Camera Supports (Hedgecoe)
  • 19. Filters on Camera (camerafilters.com)
  • 20. Exposure Meters (Hedgecoe)
  • 21. Depth of Field (London, Stone, and Hedgecoe)
  • 22. White Balance Wrong Right ( Pring )
  • 23. Rule of Thirds ( Busselle)
  • 24. Lines, Use them. (Google Images)
  • 25. Grace (Google Images)
  • 26. Composition (Google Images)
  • 27. Exposure Time ( Frost)
  • 28. Shutter Speed (McCarthy)
  • 29. Shutter Speed- Fast (Google Images)
  • 30. Aperture (McCarthy)
  • 31.
    • Describes a sensor’s (or film’s) sensitivity to light
    ISO (Film Speed) (London, Stone)
  • 32.
    • The light scattered in lens systems through generally unwanted image formation mechanisms.
    Lens Flare ( Busselle)
  • 33. Pattern and Harmony
  • 34. Monochromatic ( Frost)
  • 35. Different angles (Hedgecoe)
  • 36. Panning (Hedgecoe, London, Stone)
  • 37. Studio Shooting (Hedgecoe)
  • 38. Black and White (London and Stone)
  • 39. Filters (Photoshop) (London and Stone)
  • 40. Healing Brush Tool (Photoshop) (London)
  • 41. Contrast and Brightness ( Kelby)
  • 42. Curves and Levels (Photoshop) ( Kelby)
  • 43. Burn Tool (Photoshop) ( Ang)
  • 44. Application Digital Portfolio- My Photography http://s871.photobucket.com/albums/ab276/SDavidsonPhotography/?albumview=slideshow
  • 45. Class Activity
    • Go to my senior graduation Ning and download the picture titled
    • ‘ Love Park’
    • Open Love Park in your Photoshop
    • Go to bottom right corner and click on
    • Then click on levels.
    • To adjust the photo,
    • hit auto adjustment
    • and let Photoshop do
    • the adjusting.
    • 6. After this adjustment, the
    • levels will be corrected.
    • 7. Now go back to the right corner
    • and this time click on Black
    • and white. Then when screen comes up hit ok.
    • 8. Then on the side tool bar located on the left hand side, click the eraser tool and
    • go over any spot on the picture
    • 9. Click and hold and drag curser over the places where you
    • want color, as I did with the statue of LOVE
  • 46. Example
  • 47.
    • www.ehow.com
    • A Short Course in Digital Photography by Barbara London and Jim Stone
    • The Photographer’s Handbook by John Hedgecoe
    • Photovision DVD hosted by Ed Pierce
    • Photography by Tom Ang
    • The complete 35mm sourcebook by Michael Busselle
    • The A-Z of creative photography: over 70 techniques explained in full by Lee Frost
    Recourses
  • 48. Recourses
    • The digital photography book: the step-by-step secrets for
    • how to make your photos look like the pro’s! by Scott Kelby
    • Make your own digital photo scrapbook by Roger Pring
    • Digital photographer’s handbook by Tom Ang
    • Google images
    • www.azuswebworks.com/photography/history
    • Photographer: Mr. McCarthy
    • Mr. Patton
    • Google Images
    • www.camerafilters.com