SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED All of us here at Simply Organic would like to thank you for choosing to make Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color a part of your salon environment. Simply Organic is the result of one man’s determination to leave his industry a better and safer place. Over the years he was joined in his quest by family members and friends and the result is a team of passionate, enthusiastic, and committed individuals who are dedicated to supporting our industry with the safest, high quality, high performing professional only products possible. Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color started as a creative vision and came to being through a combination of over 50 years of in salon hair coloring experience, the skilled eye of an expert painter and hair colorist, a century’s worth of expertise in manufacturing and blending the highest quality dyes in the world, and state of the art manufacturing procedures. We believe the result is the safest, highest performing hair color in the world. Whether you have brought our color into your salon to take advantage of its outstanding performance, create a safer working environment, provide a more pleasant experience for your clients, participate in a rapidly growing market segment, or as a way to separate yourself from the crowd; we are confident that you will be thrilled with its reliable, predictable performance and ease of use. Colorists the world over have been amazed at the perfect grey coverage, amazing shine, vibrant reds, and balanced and sophisticated tones. We are proud to present to you a safer alternative to traditional ammoniated colors that is simple to use and doesn’t involve a performance compromise. Welcome to the hair color revolution.
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED The Finer Points Pure and Natural Fruit PectinBy now you are probably aware that we are utilizing natural fruit pectin to thicken our color instead of the petroleum derivatives that are normally used. As we looked at high performance, professional hair color it was immediately apparent that at this point in history, some chemicals are an absolute necessity for hair color to provide the dependable and predictable performance that all of us need and demand. Pigments (or dyes) and something to open the cuticle layer are two such examples. Despite some manufacturers misleading claims, unless you are using organic henna, there is no such thing as “certified organic hair color”. In other areas however, we found that new and natural ingredient technology was making the use of some chemicals unnecessary and obsolete. One such area was the use of chemical thickeners or viscosity adjusters. Included in hair color formulations to keep the color in place, petroleum derived viscosity adjusters are used to help keep the color from dripping. These thickeners don’t make hair color work better they just keep it in place. Actually, these artificially thickened bases hinder permanent hair color’s prime function: to penetrate the hair and deliver intermediate dyes in their purest form. To compensate for the barriers that artificial gels and waxy tube colors create, products had to be made stronger to penetrate the hair. The traditional concept has always been, if a hair color was gentle, it didn’t cover gray and faded rapidly. This was due to the fact that the products had to be strong enough to penetrate their own artificial gel and waxy cream bases. In doing so, they damaged the hair. To add insult to injury, these waxy chemical thickeners are referred to by many hair color companies as “conditioners.” During our research, we discovered an ingredient that is a rising star in the
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED world of natural, ingredient technology: pure and natural fruit pectin. Already used in healing ointments and cough remedies to soothe the throat, various studies have shown pectin to have potential direct health benefits such as a decrease in cholesterol, reduced serum glucose in people with diabetes, and inhibitory effects on cancer growth and metastisis. We found pectin to be the perfect ingredient to thicken our hair color. The fruit pectin we use has been custom blended for Simply Organic contains no additives or preservatives. It stabilizes color, moisture and protein and is the ultimate filler because it resurfaces overly porous, damaged hair. It is excellent for both the health of the hair and the scalp and can assist clients with sensitive scalps to have a more comfortable color service. Our Simply Organic Pure Fruit Pectin is mixed with the color at the time of application, giving the colorist the ability to customize the viscosity of the color to best suit their individual application style. Natural AromatherapyThe dangers of the chemicals that are often used under the label of “fragrance” are becoming more and more well known. The National Academy of Sciences reports that 95% of the chemicals used in fragrances today are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum, including known toxins capable of causing cancer, birth defects, central nervous system disorders and allergic reactions. Many of the same chemicals found under the label “fragrance” or “parfum” are the same chemicals that are in cigarette smoke. If you check your current colors’ ingredient list and see either of these two words, you may want to think twice. Exposure to fragrance chemicals can cause headaches; eye, nose, and throat irritation; nausea; forgetfulness; loss of coordination, and other respiratory and/or neurotoxic symptoms. Many fragrance ingredients are respiratory irritants and sensitizers, which can trigger asthma attacks and aggravate sinus conditions. Fragrance chemicals are the number one cause of allergic reactions to cosmetics
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED — not only to the primary users, but also to those who breathe in the chemicals as secondhand users. Needless to say, in the quest to create a healthier ingredient list we knew that there was no place (and no need) for these toxins. You won’t find the word “fragrance” or “parfum” on our ingredient list because Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color contains no chemical fragrances. Instead you have the option of adding one to three drops of our 100% natural aromatherapy oil blend at the time of the service, turning your color service into an aromatherapy experience for you and your client. Crystal Clear DevelopersPermanent hair color cannot work without an oxidizing agent. At Simply Organic we have done everything possible to make our oxidizing agent is the purest available. We have taken the same approach used when formulating our hair color in the development of Simply Organic Clear Developer – we’ve used no chemical thickening agents. Simply Organic Clear Developers come in 5, 10, 20 and 40 volume strengths. ● 5 volume has a reduced Ph and is used to convert any Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Hair color shade into a demi‐permanent color. It will not leave a line of demarcation. ● 10 volume is designed for permanent low‐lift coloring and toning. It can produce up to one level of lift. ● 20 volume is designed for general hair coloring. It is especially reliable for covering gray hair and moderate lightening. It can produce up to two levels of lift. ● 30 volume can be obtained by mixing equal portions of 20 volume and 40 volume. It can produce up to three levels of lift. ● 40 volume is designed for extra lightening. It is primarily used with the Simply Organic High Lift Series.
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED Basic Mixing Instructions 1. Thoroughly mix one rounded scoop (6 grams) of fruit pectin into two oz. of color. This can be accomplished by shaking or stirring. Many colorists like the convenience and the texture produced by the use of a “shaker egg” available at many beauty supply stores. Bottle application can be used with this color as well. More pectin may be used for a thicker mixture and of course less can be used for a thinner consistency. 2. Add an equal part of peroxide and mix thoroughly. At first it might seem like the color will be too thin, but after about three minutes the pectin begins to ʺset upʺ creating a thicker mixture. If the consistency seems a little ʺlooseʺ at the beginning, simply begin your application at the crown and work in the back of the head initially. Stylists also find that simply putting less color on the brush for the first few minutes is helpful as well. Remember, many of us have been using artificially thickened color for years, it may take a few applications to adjust your application habits to the unique consistency of Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color. 3. Apply as normal. Bottle or brush application can be used. 4. Timing. For grey coverage, process color for 5 minutes under a pre heated dryer (medium setting) followed by 30 minutes at room temperature. Tone on tone work can be processed for 20 minutes at room temperature. High Lift Colors should be processed for 10‐15 minutes under a pre‐heated dryer (medium medium setting) followed by 30‐35 minutes at room temperature. * Color should be bagged while under the dryer to prevent the hot air from drying the color out.
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED 5. Thoroughly Rinse color from hair until water runs clear. 6. Shampoo twice with Simply Organic Color Cleanse Shampoo. This shampoo has been specially formulated for cleansing Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color from the hair. 7. Apply Simply Organic Retreat Color Therapy Treatment (included with your introductory order), leave on for 2‐5 minutes, and then rinse. This nourishing treatment balances protein and moisture levels in the hair, leaving your clients hair feeling great. We suggest gently combing through with a wide tooth comb to ensure even distribution throughout the hair. 8. After client is towel dried, apply a generous amount of Color Lock spray and leave in. This low ph spray smells wonderful, restores the hair to its proper Ph ensuring that the cuticle layer is closed, and is a great cutting lotion. Again, gently combing through with a wide tooth comb for even distribution is recommended. 9. Cut or Style as Usual. 10. Send your client home with the appropriate Simply Organic Wash and Rinse, along with Rejuvenating Hair and Scalp Sealer for everyday use, and Retreat Color Therapy Treatment for weekly treatments. Prescribing the correct Simply Organic home care ritual protects your clients investment and ensures that your “canvas” is preserved in the best way possible.
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED Covering Grey with Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color Simply Organic Oil Emulsion Color was formulated to provide consistent and reliable grey coverage that out performs the world’s best ammoniated colors. All of our tonal series were carefully calibrated to make creating great grey coverage formulas simple, easy, and fun. Although satisfactory grey coverage can be obtained without heat we recommend a short time under a warm dryer to provide the best results. The following guidelines will help you to get the best results possible. Use 20 Volume Developer for Optimal Grey Coverage. Satisfactory grey coverage can be obtained with 10 and 30 volume but 20 will provide the best results possible. Process Grey Coverage formulas for 5 minutes under a pre‐heated dryer followed by 30 minutes at room temperature. The dryer should be warm, not hot and clients should be comfortable. The medium setting on most dryers is normally appropriate. Use the plastic bags provided with the color to protect the hot air of the dryer from drying out the color. The bag may be removed after the time under heat is complete. For resistant grey, leave the bag on for half of the 30 minute room temperature processing time. Use the N (Natural) Series as the foundation of balanced and realistic looking grey coverage formulas. Our Natural series contains a balance of red, yellow, and blue making it the ideal foundation of any grey coverage formula. It can be used alone and will create beautiful natural looking results. When mixing the Natural series with our other tonal series, a good rule of thumb is to match the percentage of “N” to the percentage of grey (if you have 25% grey, use 25% Natural, if you have 50 percent grey use 50% Natural). Remember this is a guideline and factors such as levels of lift, hair porosity, and your desired outcome should all help you decide on your formula. Extend your processing time 15 minutes if covering grey without heat. Without the extra energy that heat provides, extend the processing time to 45 minutes total for the best grey coverage without heat.
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED Application, application, application! Sloppy application accounts for more grey coverage issues than any other factor. To ensure the best results use small sections and makes sure that all the hair is thoroughly covered with color. This is especially important around the front hair line and in the sideburn area. Take care not to wipe the color off of the crucial areas such as the temples when placing the plastic bag over the head. If clients are placing eye glasses on while processing check to see if the wands of their glasses have pushed the color off of the hair line. If you encounter stubborn, hard to cover grey you may extend the time under heat. For extremely resistant grey you may extend the time under heat to 10 minutes followed by 25 minutes at room temperature. The Simply Organic Oil Emulsion High Lift Series The Simply Organic High Lift Series was designed to give up to four levels of lift. They are available in gold, natural, and ash (HLA, HLG, and HLN). Levels of lift are dependent on factors such as hair porosity, hair texture, and of the presence of artificial pigment. The use of high lift colors below level 7 may produce unwanted warmth. The amount of pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment) also strongly influences how much warmth will remain when using high lift colors. Visual cues such as skin color, natural hair color, and eye color can help you discern how much natural pheomelanin is present in the hair. Take care when using high lift colors on clients whose hair, skin, and eyes contain natural warmth. Simply Organic High Lift Colors are mixed one part color and two parts 40 volume developer.
SIMPLY ORGANIC OIL EMULSION HAIRCOLOR GETTING STARTED Heat must be used for Simply Organic High Lift Colors to work correctly. The extra energy that heat provides is necessary to get optimal lift when working with our high lift shades. Process for 10 to 15 minutes under a pre‐heated dryer (set to medium) followed by 30 to 35 minutes at room temperature. Total processing time should be 45 to 50 minutes. The plastic cap can be left on for half of the room temperature processing time. This helps to retain heat and can assist in optimizing lift. In many instances the use of high lift colors creates warmth. Use the HLA to best control warmth. High lift colors are not designed to cover grey. High lift colors are primarily formulated to lighten hair and contain very light dye loads that do not support optimal grey coverage. Simply Organic High Lift shades can be used as toners when used with 5 volume developer. Mix equal parts color and 5 volume developer, apply, and process until the desired result is achieved (normally 5 to 10 minutes). Toners may be applied to towel dried hair right at the sink if desired. For extremely fragile, porous, or distressed hair add one or two pumps of Color Therapy Treatment directly into your toning formula. This lowers the Ph of the color and makes it even gentler to the hair. This tip is also useful when refreshing the ends of damaged hair.