life! travel í THE STRAITS TIMES TUESDAY, JULY 28 2009 PAGE C3
The Spanish city of Zaragoza Once a
mosque and
boasts history and hipness now a church,
Zaragoza’s La
Seo Cathedral
lori erickson (left) blends
Gothic and
F
or a town founded 2,000 years ago in Baroque
honour of the Roman emperor Caesar styles with
Augustus, the Spanish city of Zaragoza a uniquely
swings to a surprisingly modern beat. Spanish
Moorish palaces and stately churches architectural
share city streets with dazzling modernist struc- form called
tures, religious festivals alternate with raucous Mudejar.
street theatre and classic Spanish dishes are being
reinvented by enterprising young chefs.
Zaragoza (say Za-rah-gor-tha), long a second-
tier city in Spain, is moving into first-rank status
with its unique blend of history and hipness, innova-
tion and tradition.
Much of the credit for its rising profile is due to
its hosting of the World’s Fair last year. The city
launched an ambitious building programme that revi-
talised its riverfront and upgraded its tourism infra- Start your day
structure. by exploring
The investment is paying off handsomely: More the picturesque
than five million people from around the world went streets (below)
to Zaragoza for the fair and the flow of visitors has in the historic
continued even after it ended last September. downtown
The major landmarks of the fair remain on the district. At
banks of the Ebro River, most in line with the fair’s night, take in
theme of water and sustainable development. the dramatic
Among the most striking are architect Zaha Hadid’s view of the
sinuous bridge/pavilion over the Ebro and the glass- Pilar Basilica
walled 80m-high Water Tower. Nearby, the Zarago- (below left)
za Aquarium, one of the largest in Europe, is home bathed in
to 300 freshwater species from around the globe. dazzling lights.
The upgrades also include an expanded network
PHOTOS:
of walking and cycling paths that wind through
ZARAGOZA
TOURISM
Zaragoza and along the Ebro River. Take advantage
of the popular bike-rental programme to enjoy the
Zaragoza rising
scenic network.
Zaragoza’s newest attractions join a rich tapestry
of historic sites that stretch back more than two mil-
lennia. Walk its streets and you can see remnants of
its Roman, Moorish and Christian history. Founded
as an outpost of the Roman empire in 24BC, its origi-
nal name of Cesaraugusta eventually
became Zaragoza.
The most significant remaining
Roman landmark is a first-century
amphitheatre that sits in the middle of
the city’s historic district. An adjacent
museum tells the story of how the
6,000-seat theatre was once the bust-
ling centre of Roman life.
The next culture to leave its mark
on Zaragoza was that of the Moors.
Their greatest legacy is the Aljaferia
Palace, a castle both formidable and
elegant that now houses the regional
government parliament. Considered
one of the most important Islamic
monuments in Spain, its highlight is a
light-filled courtyard surrounded by
graceful arches.
When the region was claimed by
Christian forces in 1118, the kingdom
of Aragon was created and Zaragoza
became its capital. The main mosque
in the city became La Seo Cathedral,
part of Mudejar Architecture of
Aragon, a Unesco World Heritage site.
The Roman Catholic cathedral
blends Gothic and Baroque elements
with a uniquely Spanish architectural
form called Mudejar. Characterised by rich plaza in Spain, a picturesque expanse lined with
ornamentation in brick, plaster and ceramics, Mude- cafes and fountains, and the site of frequent musical
jar buildings were created by Muslim artisans work-
ing under Christian rule. Zaragoza has some of the
performances, festivals and other public events.
The Plaza del Pilar is at its most colourful in
Goya: Dark themes, Considered both the last of the Old Masters and the
first of the Moderns, Francisco de Goya remains
Zaragoza’s most famous son and one of history’s
finest Mudejar structures in the country, including
La Seo and the Magdalena Church.
mid-October, when it becomes the focal point of an
eponymous nine-day festival in honour of Our Lady
of Pilar. More than 400,000 people flock to Zarago-
brilliant strokes most influential artists.
He was born in 1746 in the nearby village of Fuen-
The city is also home to one of the world’s major detodos and received his artistic education in Zarago-
Catholic shrines, the Pilar Basilica. Tradition holds za for the celebration, which includes folk dancing, za. His first works were produced there, including
that the Virgin Mary appeared to St James at this theatre performances, concerts and a procession of religious murals (left) that adorn two of the cupolas in
spot in the year 40AD and asked him to build a Gigantes y Cabezudos (giants and bigheads), featur- the Pilar Basilica.
church in her honour. Over the centuries, a variety ing huge papier mache characters. He later became a painter for the court (despite his
of structures have occupied the site, including the Perhaps the city’s most inviting aspect is a quali- unwillingness to flatter his subjects) and in his later
ty of life that is increasingly rare, even in Spain.
present-day Baroque church that is the second years turned to dark and macabre themes, a reflection
Though it is home to 700,000 people, it feels sur-
largest in Spain. of his descent into mental and physical illness.
prisingly intimate, with all major landmarks within
Our Lady of Pilar is the patroness of Spain, a pre- The Zaragoza Museum (free admission) houses the
reach of a bike ride.
dominant Catholic nation. The brightly coloured rib- city’s largest collection of his works, including his
The city pulses with a zest for living, especially
bons that pilgrims receive at her shrine can be seen masterful portraits of Fernando VII and the Duke of
when evening falls and the streets fill with families
throughout the Aragon region, adorning taxis and San Carlos. Equally important are the Goya
pushing strollers, elderly couples, students and
bicycles as a sign of protection and blessing. engravings housed in the Ibercaja Camon Aznar
young professionals, all enjoying the coolness that
Outside the basilica lies the largest pedestrian Museum (free admission), which show both his mas-
follows the heat of a Spanish afternoon.
tery of techniques and his biting social and political
The sidewalk cafes and bars soon fill with chatter-
satire.
ing groups savouring tapas and wine.
Thanks in part to this city-wide appreciation for
FRANCE life’s pleasures, Zaragoza’s culinary star is rising.
Zaragoza Many aficionados consider its tapas bars to be
among the most charming in Spain, particularly in
the area known as El Tubo.
Barcelona
L
To sample the best in traditional cuisine in a full
P O RT U G A
Madrid meal, visit La Jamoneria, a renowned eatery specia-
lising in the glories of salt-cured Spanish ham. Own-
SPAIN er Felix Jose Martinez wields his carving knives with
the skill of a surgeon and is happy to demonstrate
his time-honoured craft to guests.
ea
ea nS For a meal that showcases contemporary Spanish
ran cuisine, head for Novodabo in Zaragoza’s university
ed iter
M ALGERIA district. The restaurant is owned by chef David Bol-
dova, who served under several Michelin-ranked
ST GRAPHICS
chefs before returning to his hometown 11/2 years
Getting there ago to open his own restaurant. He is known for its
inspired reworking of traditional Aragonese dishes.
After a few days of touring, the best way to end
Zaragoza is located in north-east Spain, mid- your stay is to visit the Plaza del Pilar in the evening
way between Madrid and Barcelona. Visitors as the spires of the city’s two cathedrals cast drama-
can fly to Madrid and reach Zaragoza either by tic shadows across the pavement. In this place
a domestic flight or a 90-minute ride on the where the Romans once walked and where countless
AVE, Spain’s high-speed rail network. pilgrims have journeyed, the warm spirit of Zarago-
For more information, go to www.spain.info za shines most brightly.
or call the Singapore bureau of the National stlife@sph.com.sg
Tourist Office of Spain on 6737-3008 or
e-mail singapore@tourspain.es. Lori Erickson is a freelance travel writer based in the
United States.