Eldo Exaple


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Eldo Exaple

  1. 1. NCAR 356. Jethro 5.4 R ★★ 300ft HILLBILLY ROCK Climb the east face just left of center, following a large (GPS = N39°58.790 W105°17.383) 30:00 left-facing flake system. The sparsely-protected flake Approach: Hillbilly Rock is the obvious triangular system ends before the top, and merges with the last few flatiron sitting on the grassy hillside to the right of the feet of the following route. entrance into Skunk Canyon, and in front of Ridge One. FA: Guy Humphry, Dan Moore 2001 Take the NCAR Trail and go right (north) on the Mesa Trail through several switchbacks to a wooden fence. Pick up 357. East Face Center 5.0 ★★ 300ft the Upper Skunk Canyon Trail behind this fence and head Begin in the middle of the east face, next to a large pine 100 yards into the drainage to a point just left (west) of a tree. Stay right of a large left-facing flake system and head rotten band of rock. Take a faint trail heading northwest straight up for the summit. If roping up for this route, three up the grassy hillside to the base of Hillbilly Rock. nice ledges provide good belay stances along the way. FA: Pat Ament, Larry Dalke 1961 Descent: Either downclimb North Face or rappel 60ft down the north face from webbing around a chockstone. 358. East Face Right 5.0 ★★★ 300ft Bring 20ft of webbing for the latter option, as the anchor This is one of the best slab routes in the Flatirons for a has a history of disappearing. beginning leader to safely cut their teeth. Start at the northeast corner and follow an off-finger and tight-hands Bouldering: The Trail Rock and Bulge Boulder, with prob- crack up the low-angle slab, staying left of the northeast lems up to V3, sit near the wooden fence off the Mesa ridge. Protection is bountiful and the exposure is mild Trail at the start of the Skunk Canyon Trail. along the ridge. There are also several comfy ledges to belay from. 355. East Face Left 5.0 ★★★ 400ft This is the longest route on Hillbilly. It first ascends the low 359. North Face 5.2 60ft foot on the southeast corner of the formation, 140ft be- This route is often used as the descent path from the sum- low the main east face. Climb this extra piece of rock to a mit and otherwise would probably not be climbed. Begin ledge level with the east face and belay. Continue up the directly below the summit on the far right (west) side of slab, staying near the left ridgeline, for two more pitches. the north face and climb past a bulge and several large FA: Gerry Roach blocks to the top. 351 352 349 368 348 390 362 358 357 389 356 364 355 363 388 387 386 370 Skunk Canyon and Hillbilly Rock 98 • www.sharpendbooks.com
  2. 2. NCAR HILLBILLY FLATIRONETTES Approach: There are several large, low-angled 30:00 ridges that orbit Hillbilly Rock as well as several large boulders along the south face. Most are not worth bothering with, but may merit an investigation if soloing other routes in the area. 363. HBF South Class 3 ★ 350ft Left (south) of Hillbilly Rock are two narrow but long ribs of rock, each with a south ridge. Start at the base of the south ridge on the west formation and scramble/walk up the ridge to the top. Scramble off to the east, ending up next to the following route. Variation: Class 3 300ft Climb the south ridge of the east 361 formation. There is more hiking and less climbing on this ridge. 364. HBF Front Boulder 5.6 ★ 30ft There are three massive boulders along the south face of Hillbilly Rock. This is the front, eastmost boulder. Climb edges and flakes up the burnt-red east face. Scramble off to the north. 360 365. HBF Middle Boulder 5.4 ★ 40ft Directly behind the previous route is the middle boulder, which has a summit that overhangs to the west and has a large pine tree growing within a few feet of it. Climb a knife-edged flake/arête along the north ridge. Reverse the route to get down. 366. HBF East One Class 4 200ft There is a small flatironette 70ft in front of Hillbilly Rock Hillbilly Rock West Face to the east. There are two forgettable routes on it, with this one climbing the south ridge to the top. Step off to the north. 360. West Face 5.12c ★★ 40ft 367. HBF East Two Class 3 100ft Wander 25ft uphill to the north from the following route. Climb the east face on the same formation as for the pre- Stick clip the high first bolt, then climb a seam, skipping vious route. Start on a smooth slab next to a black streak the fixed bashie to the bolt. Continue up the technical and angle up and right to the top. face to the anchor underneath a small roof. Gear: 3 bolts 2-bolt anchor THE HOBO 361. West Face Right 5.12c ★★ 55ft (GPS = N39°58.792 W105°17.457) 35:00 Start on the southwest corner in a left-facing dihedral. Approach: Hike past Hillbilly Rock along its north Optional nuts protect the easy runout to the high first side and continue 50 yards uphill to the west. bolt. From there, angle up and left, staying on the left side of the arête to a sloping ledge with a hidden anchor. Descent: Scramble down East Face. Gear: 4 bolts, nuts bolted anchor 368. East Face Class 3 ★★ 120ft 362. Matt Tackett’s Gone Missing 5.6 R ★ 300ft Ascend the center of the east face on large holds up a Locate an obvious ramp/crack that angles up and right in low-angled slab to a small summit. the center of the south face. Work up the ramp for 60ft until the ramp cuts sharply back left. Pull the crux bulge 369. Southwest Corner 5.4 R 70ft just before the ramp abruptly changes directions. There Begin just past the west face overhang on the south side. is a slight runout here that could result in a ledge fall. Climb up good face holds over a bulge and angle left to Continue up and left on an easier ramp, staying below a the top. This route has few protection opportunities. small overhang that blocks access to the east face. Reach FA: The Satan’s Minions Soloing Club 2003 a ledge and belay (110ft). Traverse five feet right at a point where it is easy to get onto the east face to follow East Face Left to the summit. FA: Jason Haas solo 2006 www.sharpendbooks.com • 99
  3. 3. NCAR 370. Stairway to Heaven 5.3 ★★★ 1,200ft RIDGE ONE (LIKE HEAVEN) There is a low-angled slab at the toe of the rock where it (GPS = N39°58.721 W105°17.316) 30:00 touches the stream at the southeast corner, which leads Note: This is the only ridge of the four that is not to a series of small overhangs. Climb the slab over the affected by the raptor closures. crux overhang (this can be avoided by moving further right) and third class it up the ridge past numerous ledges Approach: Ridge One forms the righthand entrance to and trees to a point beside the Like Heaven summit. It is Skunk Canyon and is reached by hiking the NCAR Trail to possible to step off to the east just past this summit, but the Mesa Trail. Take the right (north) fork on the Mesa Trail for full value continue up to the summit of Heaven, which through several switchbacks to a wooden fence just above awaits further north. To descend from the highest summit, the seasonal stream. Slip behind the fence and hike the scramble down the north ridge for 60ft to a tree and climber’s Skunk Canyon Trail into the drainage. Ridge One rappel 40ft to the west. A ropeless alternative is to move will be the first formidable hunk of rock on the right (north) down the north ridge for 30ft, then down a low fifth class side of the stream as the entrance into the canyon narrows. dihedral on the east face to reach the ground after 50ft. 371. The Guardian 5.12d ★★★ 60ft This pumpy sport route ascends the severely overhanging southeast face just left of the start for the previous route. Climb a slab up to the face and try to hang on. Gear: 4 bolts bolted anchor FA: Dan McQuade, Bob Horan 1987 372. Army 5.9+ ★ 80ft Begin behind the small juniper at the base of Ariel. Step up to the large flake and traverse hard right all the way to a hand crack at the right (south) edge of the west face. A better start is to climb Armed Forces to the second bolt (5.10b) and then tra- verse straight right to the same hand crack. Jam up to a shelf on the southwest arête and then continue up the short south face to the top. A direct start is not advised due to poor rock quality. FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1975 371 370 150' 75' 383 382 381 380 379 378 377 Ridge One 100 • www.sharpendbooks.com
  4. 4. NCAR 373. Armed Forces 5.11b ★★ 65ft 376. Casual Slabs 5.5 ★ 70ft This is the only bolted route on the lower west face, Begin halfway between Ariel and Gunky on the broad, located just left of the southwest corner. Scamper up an low-angled wall that forms a notch of sorts between the easy slab (optional nut placement) to the overhang. Clip summit of Armed Forces and the Like Heaven summit. a bolt before firing up overhanging pockets, which lead Find a faint crack system with a small tree growing out of right to another bolt. From here, blast straight up jugs— a flake 20ft up and take it to a tree anchor on the crest. but save some gas for the finish. Numerous variations exist. Gear: 4 bolts, nut for start 2-bolt anchor FA: Dan Hare, Mike O’Donnell 1986 377. Gunky 5.11b ★ 170ft Begin directly below the large dihedral for Love, at two incut mail slots in a small overhang. Power up the boul- dery start to a hand jam, which leads to a ledge. Take a low-angled left-facing corner for a few feet until it is easy to traverse hard right on a narrow shelf/ledge with good holds above. Belay on the other side. Climb straight up the face and bridge a bombay chimney (hand-sized gear) in a right-facing dihedral just below the summit. Belay on gear and descend from the anchor above Love. FA: Scott Woodruff, Tim Beaman, Brad Gilbert 1975 378. Slot (For Your Arms Only) 5.10a ★ 170ft Begin 40ft right of the start of Love and 10ft left of Gunky. Swing up reachy jugs past a fixed pin to a ledge. Work up the Love dihedral for 30ft to a slightly overhang- ing section. Move up and right to a ledge (above the 374 traverse on Gunky) and traverse hard right to the base of a large right-facing dihedral; belay here. Finish in the 372 chimney as for Gunky. Variation: 5.9 ★ Avoid both the crux start and the long traverse by beginning further right, directly below the chimney. Climb straight up the face and merge with the normal route after 50ft. 379. Love 5.5 ★★★ 150ft Begin 50ft north of the massive left-facing dihedral which forms the left side of the Like Heaven tower. Step across a boulder to begin on jugs over a small overhang. Once established on the face, traverse right to the dihedral. Enjoy classic movement and exquisite stone in the corner 373 to the top. Hit the ridge and continue up the arête to the right to chain anchors on the summit. Rappel the route to the west with double ropes. FA: Pat Ament, Mike VanLoon 1967 374. Arms Reduction 5.11b R ★ 65ft 380. Better Than Love 5.5 ★★★ 130ft Climb to the first bolt on Armed Forces, but when that Climb the opening crux moves of Love to a ledge near the route traverses right, continue up and slightly left towards left-facing corner. From here, angle up and left on big jugs a left-facing flake. Battle up the face with technical gear (somewhat reminiscent of those on Winky Woo) to the to the ridgeline. middle summit of Ridge One. To descend, scramble north FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1986 down to a tree and rappel 75ft down the west face. FA: Gerry and Barbara Roach 1972 375. Ariel 5.8 R 70ft Begin next to a small juniper tree on a ledge that starts 381. Party of One 5.10a ★★ 130ft 30ft up and is 12ft left of the first bolt on Armed Forces. Locate an overhanging offwidth 30ft left of Love. Climb Mount a large flake slightly right of a tree and then follow jugs up a faint overhanging, left-facing corner to gain the jug rails hard left until it’s easy to move straight up. Aim crack. Worm up the easier crack, using a combination of for the crest 20ft right of a large pine tree anchor. chicken-wings and face holds to the summit. Rappel 75ft FA: Scott Woodruff, Sue Kent 1975 from a tree down and left. Variation: Ariel Direct 5.10a R 60ft Climb Ariel through FA: Jim Erickson free solo 1978 the start of the juggy leftward trending traverse until a point directly below a finger crack. Pull a difficult move over a bulge to gain the crack and continue straight up to the top. FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1986 www.sharpendbooks.com • 101
  5. 5. NCAR RIDGE TWO (SATAN’S SLAB) (GPS = N39°58.698 W105°17.391) 35:00 Approach: Follow the same approach as for Ridge One into Skunk Canyon. Ridge Two sits 100ft behind Ridge One, to the west. Descent: From the summit, traverse west through the base of the chimney splitting the summit block and then walk 30ft north along a ledge to hiking territory. Bouldering: The Rasta Boulder, with a V4 and a V6, sits on the south side of the creek below Ridge Two. 386. Satan’s Slab 5.8 R ★★★ 950ft This was the first route put up in Skunk Canyon, as well as one of the best. It has runouts up to 5.7 but the short crux is well protected. P1: Start at the lowest point of the rock and scramble up a sloping ramp to belay. P2: Balance up the slab, belaying at a fixed pin 30ft below a large roof. P3: Angle up and over the left side of the roof, follow an undercling crack back right, and then friction up the slab to belay near a small roof. P4: Climb around the left side of the second large roof and ascend the face near a flaring crack to a ledge, where The Omen merges with this route. 382 P5–7: Another pitch leads to the ridgeline and another couple pitches reach the final summit tower. Get onto the east face and scramble to the top. Gear: 4 fixed pins, SR FA: Layton Kor, Pat Ament 1963 382. In God We Trust 10c X ★★ 110ft Move 40ft left of a gully to a five-foot-tall pedestal flake. Mantel onto the flake and balance up slanting rails to a nail-drive, deadhead bolt. Run it out to a slanting ledge as the face angle lessens. Get some gear and finish on the easy face above. Rap 75ft from a tree to the right. Gear: 1 bolt, SR FA: Eric Guokas, Rob Hering 1980 383. Boot Hill 5.8 X ★ 100ft Start next to a bush, 20ft left of the previous route, under a lichen-covered face. Climb an unprotected face up and right 390 to a left-facing dihedral underneath the right end of the roof band. Pull through the right side and top out on the ridgeline above. Rap from a tree above the gully to the right. FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff, Jim Michael 1975 389 384. Seventh Inning Stretch 5.11d ★ 100ft Begin directly behind a pine tree that nearly touches the rock, 45ft right of Sidereal. Pull on crisp edges through an overhang to a pocket shaped like an upside-down heart. Move right behind the tree, then onto easier ground above. Climb a shallow right-facing flake to the face above. FA: Rick Accomazzo, Christian Griffith 1981 385. Sidereal 5.10a X ★ 100ft Start 100ft right of the northwest corner, along the west face, on a built-up pedestal where the large overhang shortens in length. Pull through an overhang into a shallow left-facing nook. Traverse 40ft hard right to join the preceding route at a right-facing flake. The pins that protected the start of this route have fallen out. 386 387 388 FA: Brad Gilbert, Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare 1975 Ridge Two 102 • www.sharpendbooks.com
  6. 6. NCAR 387. The Omen 5.7 R ★★★ 900ft 390. 666 5.6 ★★★ 650ft Climb directly out of Skunk Canyon via the blunt arête im- Move uphill from the previous route to the highest mediately right of Satan’s Slab for 200ft, or skip this initial (fourth) section. Ascend the left (south) arête of the east- pitch by hiking up the gully below the east face. Friction face slab to a tree and belay. Continue along the arête up the slab (staying right of the two roofs on Satan’s Slab) belaying at several ledges along the way. and negotiate a crux bulge just below the level of the sec- FA: Richard Rossiter solo 1996 ond roof of Satan’s Slab. Continue up the face, merging with Satan’s Slab at a ledge above its second roof. 391. Wild Turkey 5.8 X ★ 240ft When approaching from the south, walk 50ft uphill from 388. Purgatory (East Face) 5.6 X ★★★ 750ft the start of the west face and find a rising, left-leaning This sustained and consistently runout slab begins 50ft ramp/roof system. Start on a large, flat boulder. Climb right of The Omen at a wide, dark trough that doesn’t up to a roof with a volleyball-sized hueco in it. Pull over quite touch the ground. Climb to the trough and belay the roof to the right to reach a second overhang (5.8 R). shortly thereafter. Continue up the unprotected channel Crank past this and onto a low-angled, cobbled face. and face to the crest of the ridge. Finish on Satan’s Slab. Climb 100ft of unprotected 5.7 to join Satan’s Slab just Gear: SR, optional #4 Camalot above the second roof. Place some gear and continue FA: David Bohn, Dave Hahn 1973 up and left to a ledge with a pin and belay. Finish on Satan’s Slab. 389. Enchanted Devil 5.4 R ★★ 700ft Gear: SR to #3.5 Camalot, optional #4/#5 Camalots for start (marginal) While the previous three routes are on the lowest and largest FA: Dan Hare, Scott Woodruff 1976 section of the east face, this route ascends the east face of the third section. The inobvious start is located directly west of Party 392. Watchmaker Steady 5.13a 70ft of One on Ridge One. Climb up and left for 50ft to a large hole Commence this climb 40ft, and two sport routes, right of of sorts near where the separation between sections two and Doric Dihedral. Micro-crimp up the ultra smooth, vertical three becomes more distinct. Continue up along the southern face to the anchor. Chipped. edge of the east face to the ridge with house-size boulders. Fin- Gear: 5 bolts 2-bolt anchor ish on Satan’s Slab or descend through a gully to the northwest. FA: Bob Horan 1987 FA: Gerry Roach 1977 Variation: 5.4 R ★★ Instead of angling left toward the gully separating section three from two, climb the center of the face to the ridge. 800-836-4006 www.totalclimbing.com 393 strength promotes confidence™ 392 www.sharpendbooks.com • 103