Still Wondering How to Treat Mold Correctly? Read This!
==== ====For fresh info on the newest findings on mold removal - visit:www.moldremovalsite.com==== ====So Youve Got Mold In Your Attic? Now What? Simple Strategies For Understanding andCorrecting Attic Mold(Note- Mold can be extremely toxic to your health and you may spread it around to other parts ofthe home where it will stay without proper clean-up, we suggest attic mold remediation attic moldremoval should only be performed by a trained professional with strong credentials)Attic mold is extremely common in our Northern climate. Attic mold is generally directly attributableto 3 basic causes:1. Lack of adequate ventilation or improper ventilation.2. Existing or past roof or flashing leaks.3. Ice damming as a result of inadequate insulation and failure to incorporate "Ice Guard" alongthe eves.4. Improperly exhausted bathroom fans and or dryer vents.We will briefly discuss each problem and the appropriate remedy as well as covering the basicabatement strategies offered by "so-called" professionals and why our recommended processmakes more sense.By far the most common cause of all attic mold is improper ventilation. Lets start by explainingthat in most attics the mold does NOT grow in the summertime. This is because during the springsummer and early fall months the daytime temperature of the attic is far to warm for the mold toeffectively grow and the humidity levels inside the attic are typically too low to allow for moldgrowth. Most mold will only grow between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Some molds that belongto a special class of mold (the ones usually affecting northern climate attics) called the Chrysophilemolds will grow in temperatures as low as the 20s.HOW THE MOLD GROWSDuring the winter months when we heat our homes, some of the heat is inevitably lost into the un-heated attic space. This hot air mass then moves upward where it will dissipate outside if the atticis properly vented. If however the attic is poorly vented the hot trapped air will encounter the coldsurface of the underside of the roofing boards or sheathing. This hot -air- meets- cold-surfaceresults in dew-point being achieved. This dew-point created condensation and is often morenoticeable on the nails as the nails are more efficient at conducting the cold temperature from
outside. The condensation then forms water droplets which can drip onto the floor of the attic orworse sometimes run down into the wall cavities below resulting in potentially "hidden " moldwhich can be the source of frustrating to diagnose health problems.Often a roof will have sufficient roof ventilation but the soffits (eves) are not vented. Even morecommon when a house receives new siding the siding contractor will install vented soffit panelsgiving the eves the appearance of being vented when in reality they are not, as no holes were evercut into the plywood covering the bottom of the eves. Sometimes the attic is ventilated properly butan overzealous attempt to insulate has blocked the air flow from the soffits to the ridge preventingproper ventilation. An easy way to check whether or not the vents are there or are functioningproperly is to go up into the attic on a sunny day, extinguish all lights and look for daylight comingin along the edges. A well ventilated attic should allow visible daylight in along the edges.What is the best way to vent the roof?Roof ventilation is divided into two categories: Incoming air and Outgoing air.Incoming Air: The most effective way for air to enter the roof is through vents that are placed in thesoffits along the eves. Continuous strip vents provide the most reliable ports as well as rectangularvents. Round ventilator plugs are easy to install but are usually to small to provide adequate airflow.Outgoing air: Stale or heated air escapes through the top of the roof. There are many ways toachieve sufficient ventilation including: Ridge Vents, Turbines or Powered Vents, Box Vents andGable End Vents. Continuous ridge vents are the preferred method for eliminating built up hot airbut may not be sufficient to ventilate short ridged roofs like hip roofs.Ventilating heated attics or cathedral ceilings properly is often neglected during initial construction.This often results in ceiling drywall growing mold on the back side when the builder fails to ventand baffle the area behind the ceiling insulation and drywall.Roof leaks always need to be addressed by a professional roofer and special attention needs tobe paid to flashings around chimneys and indeed any penetration found in the roof decking.Flashings often require maintenance between roof shingling jobs and are extremely important tomaintain. Roof leak can often develop into festering mold problems both in the attic cavity orWORSE inside of hidden wall cavities in the home.Ice Damming occurs along the eves immediately above the plate-line of the exterior walls.Leakage in this area easily penetrates into wall cavities where it can become trapped betweenexterior finish materials and interior vapor barriers. A surprisingly small amount of water can raisethe relative humidity of a wall cavity to damaging levels. Mold growth may eventually becomevisible along the wall base as it penetrates from exterior to interior wall surfaces. More criticallyspore and VOCs (Volitile Organic Compounds) released by mold can aggravate serious healthproblems in the houses occupants. Especially at risk are the very young and the old as well asAllergy -sensitive or immuno-compromised adults. In some mild cases ventilation corrections areenough to cure the problem in severe cases the roof shingles must be removed and strips of "Ice -Guard" be installed along the eves to prevent damming. In severe cases the exterior wall drywallmust be removed and the wall cavities treated as well.
Improperly vented bathroom fans: Bathroom fans and dryer vents can generate a lot of moisture.They should always be vented directly up and out through the roof. Often times builders or do ityour selfers will discharge fans or dryer discharges directly into the attic, greatly increasing theoverall humidity. Do-it-your selfers often try to connect more than one fan into a discharge and willcommonly run the discharge out to the eves or soffits rather than straight up and out through theroof. The remedy is simple one fan one roof vent directly vertically up through the roof overhead.On the outside the vent has a hat and is not a risk for water leaksHOW DO I TREAT THE MOLD?Unfortunately there are as many "treatments" for mold as there are remediators out in the realworld offering "mold remediation". Attic mold problems are especially challenging for a homeownerto solve as the mold industry has no National Guides so the list of options is confusing and oftenindecipherable with the average "mold guy" promising the latest craze. Mold spores can grow atalarming rates. One mold spore can develop into 12 million in twelve hours! Also the mold isfeeding on the boards, and what you can see with the naked eye are millions and millions of themclumped together. What you cant see are the "roots" The organism itself. The roots of mold growinto the substrate at least 3/16 of an inch. What we think of as the mold the clumped spores areactually the fruit or reproductive body like an apple to an apple tree. You cannot hope to solve amold problem leaving these roots and treating only the surface of the wood. Also the majority ofthe chemicals being used on the market today contain known cancer causing chemicals andworse do not work on porous surfaces (every surface in an attic). The mold certifying authoritiesrecommend putting the attic under negative pressure. This means using expensive equipment tosuck more air into the attic than escapes from it. The next recommendation is to remove theinsulation into plastic bagged which are taped shut. Then to HEPA vacuum the attic boardstrusses and ceiling. Next manually wash all of the same areas with a detergent solution. Finally tocorrect the ventilation issues.The Problem: This is an extremely man hour intensive process that costs a ton of money. it alsodoes nothing to address the spores (mold seeds) or to address the roots ( the organism itself).Additionally when you correct the ventilation you bring new spore into the attic every single day.The other contractors in the area use a variety of techniques that can be broken into three maingroups: the fog and Encapsulators (spray and spray painters) the bleach and ozonators and thefranchise users.First group- the fog and encapsulators: by far the most common these contractors will tell you thatall that is necessary is to go into the attic and fog a "magic" chemical and then to encapsulate themold using a poisoned mold inhibiting paint. Many of these charlatans will not even admit that theirencapsulant is a paint. Usually the paint has a heavy metal added to it like copper or tin or zinc.Sometimes they have a toxic chemical added to them to discourage mold growth.The problem: These contractors almost exclusively use fungicides that are not sporicidal. Thismeans that they do not kill spores and most of them will not penetrate a porous substrate (likewood). This means that when they apply the encapsulant they are applying it directly over themoldy roots. This is a huge no -no as the vapor barrier forming nature of latex paints can causedew-point to be achieved between the paint and the wood itself. Have you ever seen whathappens when you lay a piece of plastic sheeting or drop-cloth on the ground overnight in the
summertime? Did you ever notice those beads of water or dew? Thats because the Earthstemperature in the summertime is cooler than the outdoor air. Precisely what happens when youtreat an mold attic with any kind of paint. The paint begins to de-laminate and I have seen moldgrowing directly on Mold-proof paint! We have had to re-treat over 40 of these attic mold jobs inthe last year alone!The bleach and ozonators: these contractors will go into the attic and spray bleach onto the wood.The reason is to remove the stains, many of these companies will not admit they are using bleach!Just ask them what the active ingredient is in their "stain remover" if it is sodium hypochlorite " itsbleach. These contractors usually refuse to warranty their work and they will claim that the Ozonecannons they use will turn the spores into ash.The problem: Bleach has an ion structure that prevents it from penetrating into a porous substratelike wood, this means it leaves the roots un-harmed. It also releases a powerful environmentaltoxin called Dioxin. While the ozone cannons will destroy the chemicals off gassed by the bleachthis technique leave the complete root structure intact and guarantees that if you ever have a newwater leak the mold will go right into full production and the mold problem will immediately return.The Franchisors: These contractors have bought into a "system" most often using toxic chemicalswhich can harm you and your family.The problem: Often their warranties arent worth the paper they are printed on as they only agreeto replace the chemicals if they fail. Usually the fine print in the warranty makes it worthless. Oftenthese are money seekers who use low dollar labor as the owners bought into the franchise so theydidnt have to work on the job (just like subway shops) I discovered to my surprise about 6 yearsago that the chemicals that were being used by my so-called competitors (and indeed by most ofthe industry) not only DIDNT WORK on porous surfaces... which is about EVERY surface thatmold would grow on in a house. I also figured out that most of these chemicals contain NOingredients that KILL the spores (the most important but hardest things to kill) and also ...that theyleave behind RESIDUAL TOXIC CHEMICAL POISONS that in some case are WORSE than thepoisons the MOLD makes!Yikes! I found this out the hard way, cause in the beginning, believe it or not, I used the same oldchemicals that everyone else in the industry STILL USES! And you know how I found out? I hadthree "special Ladies" that got sick from the chemicals I used in their homes. I call these ladies"special" because due to living with extremely TOXIC mold, they developed a RARE conditioncalled Multiple Chemical Sensitivity Disorder. Ever heard of it ? I hadnt. I can honestly say that Ithought they were trying to get money back for a job WELL DONE. But...Since I had three of them in a row, I decided to try and see if there might be anything to their claimof sickness. I discovered that their noses worked actually much BETTER than a "regular" personsnose (someone without multiple Chemical Sensitivity Disorder). HMMM! I began to theorize thatmaybe I was POISONING ALL OF MY CUSTOMERS, but our "regular noses" just couldnt smellit. I quickly began to research. Just what was in those chemicals? After all, they were EPAapproved and biodegradable. What I discovered truly SHOCKED THEN HORRIFIED ME...The EPA routinely approves products that contain known carcinogens (those are CANCERCAUSING chemicals) ... I was AGHAST! I quickly realized that I need to do some research and
change the chemicals that I used -FAST! So I got together with some of the countries topscientists. I met many very, very smart people who had already devoted their ENTIRE LIVES tothe cause. I read TONS of material about mold and the different ways to KILL MOLD. I took ALL ofthe good ideas that I learned from all these sources and EXPERTS and... Then I FUSED them alltogether into a system that is absolutely LETHAL to mold but remains SAFE for your entire family!In fact it leaves behind NO known residual poisons that can make people sick. It cost me aFORTUNE to do. Our System: The first thing we do is isolate the attic from the rest of the house.Next we SATURATE all of the moldy trusses and sheathing with a disinfectant the uses theamazing power of Hydrogen Peroxide natures miracle disinfectant. The reason we start with this iswhen mold is senses it is being attacked it releases its spore into the air, a phenomenon calledbursting or sporulation. Hydrogen Peroxide is unique among the mold killing chemicals as it is theonly liquid I know that will completely destroy a spore (mold seed). This way we kill the sporesbefore they can spread all over. Next we apply the stain removing solution. This is absolutely amust, because while truly only cosmetic in nature, failure to apply the stain remover will result inuntrained eyes (home inspectors ) believing that the mold is still active. Next and most important tothe warranty and long term efficacy of the process we actually impregnate the wood with anenvironmentally friendly solution of borate called ENVIROTECH WP. This is made from extremelyfinely ground and specially designed for dissolving borax a cousin to the old fashioned 20 muleteam we use in our laundry. This product is absolutely amazing. It was designed to penetrate thesubstrate a full inch (remember mold roots only grow 3/16s of an inch into the wood). It not onlyprevents all hosts of decay and dry rot fungi but it also prevents wood boring insects carpenterants and termites.Imagine you get a complete two for one bonus mold proofing and bug proofing in one fell swoop!Then we even dry fog the powdered ENVIROTECH WP all over the insulation. Lastly I discoveredthat the scientists at Los Alamos national laboratory have extensively studied how todecontaminate a civil facility like a house that has been contaminated by a spore based pathogenlike toxic mold. The scientists concluded that if you only follow the guidelines recommended formold that you will leave the structure contaminated with spore. They conclude that in order to fullydecontaminate the structure/ area it is absolutely necessary to fill it full of toxic levels of a reactivegas like ozone. While other mold guys are still using poisonous ozone gas we use a specialty gascalled ARAN. Which is a gas made of isotopes of pure oxygen that go all the way up to O14 whichis far more reactive and far less poisonous to people. This gas penetrate the nooks and cranniesand crevices in the attic where the liquid based chemicals/products cant penetrate guaranteeingthe destruction of any spores we remediators might have missed because we cant see them (tenthousand spore can fit on the head of a pin). Finally we fog out our staging areas and any otherareas of the property weve utilized guaranteeing we completely eliminate all threats to occupants.So to recap:1. Kill the mold with a special Hydrogen Peroxide based disinfectant.2. eliminate the stains.3. impregnate the wood and insulation with a non-toxic borate solution that prevents mold woodborers carpenter ants and termites.4. Gas out the rest of the attic to eliminate the spore we missed.
This process is far more effective and contains more steps than any other company in our eastcoast area. We are so sure of it we offer the very best warrantees in the industry to protect ourcustomers liabilities.You Cant Imagine How Many Times Ive Heard Of Mold Re-occurring After Expensive TreatmentsFrom Basements STILL leaking following Expensive Mold Clean Up Projects and Attics HavingUncorrected Ventilation issues After Being Treated.Attic Mold Remediation or Attic Mold Removal Should Be Performed By A Certified TrainedProfessional With Proper Protection, and Environmental Controls.I hope This Article Saves You From Throwing Good Money Away, and risking your Health onfailed, phony methodsIf youre looking for someone who offers these services in your area, Click hereSincerely,Charles Bodayhttp://www.SafeMoldSolutions.com For more Helpful Information1-800-948-4947All Rights ReservedCharles Boday is a Certified Mold Inspector and a Certified Mold Contractor, and he is a graduateof the Certified Mold Inspector & Contractors Institute. He is also a member of the NationalAssociation of Mold Professionals He is also a certified Environmental Inspector. He is also aCertified Crystal Meth Lab Clean Up Contractor. He has extensive experience reviewing andinvestigating toxic type cases for law offices prior to the attorneys taking on cases for litigation. Hehas worked with some of the countries top scientists seeking alternative poison-free moldremediation techniques. He is state certified to teach the realtors continuing education course"Toxic Mold! What every realtor should know!" and is the author of the same. He is also a CertifiedCrystal Meth Lab Clean up contractor. He routinely works for Fanny Mae as well as many othertop lenders like HSBC Household First Merit etc. repairing extreme mold damaged foreclosedproperties.He is also an experienced foundation waterproofer and structural repair analyst. He has developedmultiple proprietary waterproofing techniques for both interior as well as exterior foundationsystems. He has testified as an expert foundation witness and is the Author of the books: TheUltra Dry Basement: understanding and correcting foundation water problems and Ultra BondConstruction Techniques.Article Source:
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