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  2. 2. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ACKNOWLEDGEMENTThe presentation of “SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT” was possible due to thedirection & help rendered by couple of persons. We take pleasure to remember them.We acknowledge Ms.Jonalee Bajpai ,Course Coordinator B.F.Tech, NIFT, Bangalore.Our profound thanks & indebted gratitude for our mentor Ms. Sweta Jain for herguidance & suggestions given at every stage while bringing out this report.First of all, we would like to thank Mr. Guruprasad, Learning & Development officer, LTKarle, who provided us the brilliant opportunity to be internee at the organisationWe also extend a special thanks to Mr. Vijeindra Joshi, the Assistant General Manager(and my mentor) for taking out time from his busy schedule to provide us with valuableguidance throughout this training period.Further, We would like to extend our regards to Mr.Vijay and Mr.Manjesh, theIndustrial Engineers for providing us with all the necessary information reviews andremarks at all stages of the internship.We would also like to thank Mr. Santhosh, thecutting in-charge and Mr.Rudresh,the QA Head of cutting room for their immensecooperation during our study in the cutting room.Our sincere thanks to all the managers of various departments for guiding us throughoutthe internship.We would also like to thank all staff and workers of LTK -2, for keeping patience andsharing their valuable experience with us. Anoop Singh & Rajeev SharanLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 2 NIFT, BANGALORE
  3. 3. Apparel internship (2008-2012) OBJECTIVE OF THE INTERNSHIPNational Institute of Fashion Technology, a premier institute in South-east Asia isresponsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India. ApparelProduction department is imparting education in crucial areas of technology in garmentmanufacturing. After completing three years of apparel production, a techno managerialunder graduate degree program at National Institute of Fashion Technology, the studentsare exposed to a eight week industry internship with the leading garment manufacturingorganizations as a part of the course curriculumThe objective of this industry internship is aimed towards blending the classroom studywith industry application. This internship helps the students to analyze the day to dayactivities along with practical application of different principles.The objectives of internship is firstly to gain practical exposure and secondly applicationof knowledge in real life projects.This internship also helps us to learn and improve our interpersonal communication skillswith colleagues, peer group and workers.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 3 NIFT, BANGALORE
  6. 6. Apparel internship (2008-2012)COMPANY PROFILEKarle group is a leading business conglomerate in Apparel, Infrastructure, Life sciences,Properties & Packaging. The group was founded by Late Sri L.T Karle in the year 1972,by opening LT Karle Unit 1 in Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore to manufacture apparel. Sri LTKarle hails from Karle village, 20kms from Hassan in Karnataka. He was a sciencegraduate & had undergone training in advance agriculture in USA .Having gainedknowledge in advanced agriculture; he introduced scientific farming in his Hassan farm.He had a unique aptitude of foreseeing future potential of markets 7 tapping steadily fromtime to time. Besides excelling in business and providing employment to 1000‟s ofpeople, he also dedicated to the public life by occupying various positions to contribute tothe society.With his entrepreneurial skills, he has groomed his sons (Mr. Sudarshan Karle & Mr.Mahendra Karle) to take Karle group into greater heights. Since then, there has been nolook back for the group, with the aggressive forays into other business apart fromApparel. The group has clear vision with in depth knowledge of the market, committedhuman resources, state of the art technology & global associations which have all helpedKarle group to spread its wings.VISION: Nurture passion for innovation & creativity to achieve its goal to become adominant & most admired player in the chosen field.MISSION: To continuously…….attract , develop , retain , innovative and creativepeople , Evolve and upgrade – Knowledge and technology systems , Process , productand services , Encourage organic and inorganic growth initiatives.GOAL: To become dominant and most admired players in the chosen fields.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 6 NIFT, BANGALORE
  7. 7. Apparel internship (2008-2012)QUALITY POLICY: We are committed to provide apparel that meet or exceed presentand continual expectations of our customers in terms of : product quality , delivery andcost.ABOUT THE FOUNDERMajor positions held  Joined Indian National Congress 1938  President Malnad Productivity Council  President-Apparel Export Promotion Council (Karnataka)  President-Krishik Samaj  Vice President- Karnataka Pradesh Congress Committee (KPCC)  President: South India Textile Industries Association  Member of Karnataka Legislative Council 1978(MLC)Serial Entrepreneur  Bangalore Crome Tannery 1970  LT Karle and Company (1972)-Bangalore  Bharathi Sales-Bangalore  Machine Component Manufacturing Bangalore  Bharathi Housing Factory- Bangalore  Bharathi Tiles- Hasan  Bharathi Coffee Curing- Hasan  Vijay Kandasari Sugar- Hasan  Bangalore Leather and Leather Craft BangaloreLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 7 NIFT, BANGALORE
  8. 8. Apparel internship (2008-2012)CHRONOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTApparel Sector:  1972 LT Karle and Company, Unit 1, Yeshwanthpur  1989 LT Karle Unit 2, Madanayakanahalli  1994 Karle International Unit-1, Nagasandra village  2001 LT Karle Unit 4- Peenya II stage  2007 Karle International Unit-2, MallarabanavadiOther Business Companies  1997-Karle Properties  1998-Cymbio Pharma Pvt Ltd  2005-Karle Health Sciences Pvt Ltd  2007-Karle Infra Projects Pvt Ltd  2007- ETI Karle Klinical Pvt Ltd  2007-Karle Packaging Pvt LtdLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 8 NIFT, BANGALORE
  10. 10. Apparel internship (2008-2012)HEAD OFFICE and LTK Unit 1KARLE GROUP OF COMPANIES#151, INDUSTRIAL SUBURB,YESHWANTHPUR,BANGALORE - 560022INDIATel: +91-080-23475212, 41285311-15Fax: 91-80-23374729Website: www.karlegroup.comLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 10 NIFT, BANGALORE
  11. 11. Apparel internship (2008-2012)New Head Office, ETI, KHS and Sampling UnitNO.71 / 72, INDUSTRIAL SUBURB, WARD NO.10, NEAR ULLAS THEATRE, 1STBLOCK RAJAJINAGAR, BANGALORE – 560 010.TEL: +91 – 080-2357 7460, 3250 4549,FAX: +91 – 080 – 23474729LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 11 NIFT, BANGALORE
  15. 15. Apparel internship (2008-2012)KARLE INTERNATIONAL – IISURVEY NO. 26/1, 26/2, 27/2, MALLAR BANAVADI, KUNIGALROAD, NELAMANGALA TALUK,BANGALORE RURAL DISTTEL: 27700493/ 27700568Production CapacityS. No. Facility No of Machines Quantity per month1 KI -I 750 150,0002 KI- II 1100 285,0003 LTK-II 275 73,0004 LTK-IV 350 90,000Total 2475 598,000LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 15 NIFT, BANGALORE
  16. 16. Apparel internship (2008-2012)CORE COMPETENCE OF KARLE GROUP  Know the Job:- Over 38 years of expertise in Garment Manufacturing  Ensure quality: - All 4 factories are ISO 9001 -2008 certified.  Capacity: - four factories capable of manufacturing 600,000 garments a month.  Integrated manufacturing: All the activities of garment manufacturing are carried out in-house to ensure quality and consistency  Competency: trained manpower to carry out the work.  Customer Satisfaction: More than 80% business come from existing customersCORE VALUES  Deep respect for individuals and ecosystem  Deliver excellent quality to stakeholders and society at large  Be a responsible corporate and social citizen  Commitment to honesty and transparency  Respect for democratic process, change and joy.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 16 NIFT, BANGALORE
  19. 19. Apparel internship (2008-2012)TOP MANAGEMENTGroup Executive Board Members [GEB]  Mr. Sudharshan Karle – Managing Partner  Mr. Mahendra Karle – Managing Partner  Mr. P.P.Madappa – Senior Group AdvisorCorporate Management Council Members [CMC]  Mr. Chandramowly – Chief People Officer  Mr. Gururaj Bhat – Chief Financial Officer  Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan – Chief Executive  Mr. V.K.Kumar – Chief Financial Officer(Karle Infra Projects)  Dr. M.V.Nagendra – Chief Principal Investigator (ETI Karle Clinical)Business Units & Heads  Apparel Sample Making – Mr. K.S.Prasanna (Partner)  Apparel Production – Mr. Gokal Chittaranjan ( Chief Executive Manufacturing)  Karle Integrated Packaging – Mr. Sunil Betigeri (Head Packaging Unit)  Cymbio Pharma Pvt ltd – Mr. Sadyojatha A.M (Deputy G.M)  Karle Health Sciences Pvt. ltd – Mr. Louis Menezes (Senior Vice President)  ETI Karle Clinical Pvt ltd – Dr. M.V.Nagendra ( Chief Principal Investigator )  Karle Properties – Mr. Srinivas Deshpande (Advisor)  Mr. Gopala Krishna (Senior Executive)  Karle Infra Projects – Mr. Mahlanna Sasalu (Chief Operating Officer) o Mr. V.K.Kumar (Chief Financial Officer)LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 19 NIFT, BANGALORE
  20. 20. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANIZATION CHART: General Manager Unit Head P.M I.E P.E System Cutting in Finishing in Unit Controller charge charge HR Cutter/ Finishing Layers / supervisor Asst System controller Helpers Checkers / packers/ CAD spot operators/P washers/Bundle Feeding Producti Washin roduction alterationmovers helpers on clerk g helper writers/Em tailors broidery Asst Ironers Panel checking Supervisor Production writter Numbering helper /Recutters/ Sorting helpers/Pan el checkers LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 20 NIFT, BANGALORE
  21. 21. Apparel internship (2008-2012)CLIENTS:  ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH  LANDS END  ANN TAYLOR  TOMMY HILFIGER  SEARS  AMERICAN EAGLE  HOLLISTER  NIKE  ADIDAS  LEVISMAJOR CLIENTS (for the last year): 32% 39% Eddie Bauer Nordstorm Lands End Ann Taylor 15% 14%LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 21 NIFT, BANGALORE
  22. 22. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PRODUCT RANGE IN LTK-2  HEAVY JACKETS  LIGHT JACKETS  SKIRTS  TRENCH COATS  CASUAL BLAZERS  WIND SHETTERS Men’s and Women’s wear  L.T LARLE is known for their jackets in the global market and amongst the Indian garment exporters  Ann Taylor has awarded LT Karle NO.1 for their quality and production in Asia.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 22 NIFT, BANGALORE
  24. 24. Apparel internship (2008-2012)SAMPLING DEPARTMENTThe sampling department at L. T. Karle is a massive structure where samples for theirmost valuable clients are made. The four main clients that are handled in the samplingunit are:  Ann Taylor  Lands‟ end  Eddie Bauer  NordstromThe sampling department consists of the design team, processes like cad, pattern making,cutting, production, finishing, inspection, fitting of the garment etc.Quality Objectives:  100% sample exit as per buyer requirement of quality and time  100% sample approval within 2 fit rounds  100% correct pattern release to production unit  100% correct pattern release to production unit as per stipulated time  Sample rejection <1.5%  Internal audit performance >90%The different kind of samples made is:  Proto/ concept samples  Fit samples  Pre production sample  Garment package test sample  Size set samples  Salesman sample  Photo shoot sampleLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 24 NIFT, BANGALORE
  25. 25. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANIZATIONAL CHART OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT HOD Sampling Assistant Mgr Admin & scheduling A TechnicianPattern Makers Sewing QA Coordinators supervisors Pattern assistants Feeding Iron Operators Operators Special helpers machine oprts Cutters Assistant LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 25 NIFT, BANGALORE
  26. 26. Apparel internship (2008-2012) A Digitizers Sub store Maintenance Assistants Head Maintenance mechanicsSAMPLE MAKING PROCESSObjective: to make the required samples on time as per buyer specificationsScope: this procedure is applicable for making samples for all buyersResponsibilities:  Merchandising department: Furnishing the controlled techpack, sampling indent, materials, trim cards, and shrinkage reports for making samples.  Materials department: Providing raw materials for making samples as per sampling indent.  Sampling department: make samples as per requirement and as per time and action calendar and also provide the necessary information to the production unit.The tech pack received by sampling has the following:  Tech pack description:- The tech pack consists of the following details.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 26 NIFT, BANGALORE
  27. 27. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Style folder description:- All the possible details like brand name development number, style name, fit, pattern number and other minute details are included in this folder.  Details & picture:- The waist cut whether bias or contour with the GARMENT is represent here. The place where maximum stitch is requires this fixing of the other additional trims to be added to be through a diagram.  Fabric details:- The fabric group, main fabric, pocketing fabric is represented with development number & code with the supplier reference. The weight, width, composition quality & size are marked here.  Thread details:- The details of threads used are given with the code number. For e.g.:-, main thread (41), navy thread (120), white thread (122), black thread (125,126). The number‟s given in the bracket are the code numbers for each colors which identifies the particular shade of the color. If the quality specification is number given, it should be identified & conferred with the buyer. e.g.:- thickness (30tkt, 50tkt, 75tkt, 100tkt) 30 thicker, 100 finer, quality cotton, poly, spun poly, rayon, poly-most strength, rayon-poor strength.  Packing details:- The details given here are about box & plastic bag with their respective code number‟s, & RMN description or details.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 27 NIFT, BANGALORE
  28. 28. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Different methods of packing:-  Dead man fold.  Stand up pack.  Hanger pack.Zipper & HardwareZipper details include zipper chine zipper slider, zipper top stop, and zipper bottom stopwith their color description. Generally gold & silver would be the preferable colors.  Zipper band.  Zipper teeth.  Puller.  Stopper.For men‟s garments zipper teeth comes in metal but in children‟s GARMENT.It comes in plastic. The advantage is it comes with lock & unlocks system.Comment sheet:-  Additional care label order of destination is attached to addition care label.  Additional text on care label.The made “…………….” (Country of manufacturing) is represented here.It should be numbered that care label for destination should be only in English.  Polish hand tag.The detail specified here are source plant & country. e.g.:-79000 15.-marocco.These arethe following details include waist band button fastener denim with their code numbers &colors.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 28 NIFT, BANGALORE
  29. 29. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Labelhandbags & miscellaneous:-This detail includes HPL, woven label leather patch, care label size ticket& style labelwith code number‟s color description & other details. Miscellaneous includes details ofbias tape & fusing tape with their code numbers & color.After Wash Measurements:-The after wash measurements waist, thigh, knee, bottom, inseam, Front rise, back rise.Zip leant mettle, fly opening are given. The after wash measurement increase or decreaseaccording to the type of Fabric.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 29 NIFT, BANGALORE
  30. 30. Apparel internship (2008-2012)CHECK LIST OF ITEMS/ REPORTS TO BE SENT ALONG WITHSAMPLES1. Proto/ PPR/ CR1Package offered to Buyer QA  Proto Samples  Measurements and Comments of internal QA  Tech pack  Pattern Tracing  Trim Card  Fabric Shrinkage Report  Samples Review SheetPackage sent to Buyer  Proto Samples  Measurements and Comments of external QA  Tech pack signed by Buyer QA  Pattern Tracing  Sample Review Sheet2. Fit/ PPR/ CR2Package offered to Buyer QA  Fit Samples  Measurements and Comments of internal QA  Tech pack  Pattern Tracing  Pinned Sample  Trim Card  Wash Standard & Wash Recipe  Pattern SuperimposeLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 30 NIFT, BANGALORE
  31. 31. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Samples Review SheetPackage sent to Buyer  Fit Samples  Measurements and Comments of external QA  Tech pack signed by Buyer QA  Pattern Tracing  Pinned Sample  Sample Review Sheet3. PPS/ QRS/ Counter SamplePackage offered to Buyer QA  PP Samples  Measurements and Comments of internal QA  Tech pack  Pattern Tracing  Nested Pattern  Buyer agent approved Trim Card  Mini marker  Cut Patterns  Wash Standards & Wash Recipe  GPT Report  Samples Check List  SuperimposePackage sent to Buyer  PP Samples  PPS Report  Pattern Tracing  Sample Check ListPackage sent to the UnitLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 31 NIFT, BANGALORE
  32. 32. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Sealed PP Sample  Sealer Report  Pattern Tracing  Sample Check List4. Size SetPackage offered to Buyer QA  Size Set garments  Size Set Report of internal QA  Bulk Shrinkage Report  Pattern Tracing  Approved Wash Standards (Wash Recipe if applicable)  Samples Check ListPackage sent to the Unit  Size Set garments  Size Set report of external QA  Full Set Patterns  Sample Check ListLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 32 NIFT, BANGALORE
  33. 33. Apparel internship (2008-2012) CAD DEPARTMENT (SAMPLING SECTION) Process Flow: Blocks (sent by Buyer) Measurement & SpecificationsPattern Preparation (Manually- 4 Pattern Preparation On tables are present) CAD system. Digitization Inspection of Patterns Amendments Marker Preparation Inspection of Marker Amendments Cutting (according to Cutting IndentStitching received from Merchandising Dept.) PlottingSample Inspection Sent to Redesign of Commentsagainst Tech pack Buyer Patterns LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 33 NIFT, BANGALORE
  34. 34. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Applications:  Marker Preparation (done by Pattern Making & Marking Team)  Fabric Costing (done by Fabric Costing Executives- 2 members)Costing (Process Flow): Marker Development Calculation of average fabric consumption for a garment Calculation of different losses Estimation of Fabric Requirement Fabric CostingSoftware Used:Gerber-8.2LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 34 NIFT, BANGALORE
  35. 35. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Work instructions for the preparation of pattern-making1. Make the initial pattern  Use the sloper/ tech pack/ sketch provided by buyer.  Make pattern to hit specifications given, use how to measure manual to arrive at measurement given in specification sheet.  Check with Bill Of Material (BOM), to make patterns for shell, trims, interlinings, poly-fills etc.  Provide correct sewing margin.  Provide notches, where required and match all seams.  Mark the grain line.  Mark all placements- pockets, labels, embroidery or patch etc.  Make marking pattern.  Check that the pattern is according to construction sheet, sketch and sample.  Prepare the cutters must and compare with BOM (i.e. in case of change between colour ways- should be mentioned in cutters must).  Write style no., size, name of the pattern, cut quantity and pattern-version.  Prepare pattern check report for measurements, seam matching and notches.  Refer to shrinkage reports. In case of shrinkage/ elongation incorporate it as soft/ hard patterns as applicable.  Clarify with technician in case of doubts.2. Do as follows if check report does not meet the buyer’s specifications  Measure the proto garment to find out whether there was an error in measuring as measurement by QA.  Determine whether error is in measurement or in parts that are mismatched.  Compare fabric report with shrinkage & elongation report.  Compare actual fusing, ironing shrinkage/ elongation with lab reports.  Take corrective action.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 35 NIFT, BANGALORE
  36. 36. Apparel internship (2008-2012)3. Repeat the process till we get a proto that in all respect is correct and can be sent to buyer for the review. Put the seal of version on the patterns4. Once the buyer gives the comment the first sample the following needs to be done  Study the comments, compare with the proto sample to understand the requirement.  Study the mock sent by buyer and compare with the proto sample.  Compare comments from buyer on specifications with proto and QA audit report.  Study „how to correct‟ instructions from buyer to understand the requirements.  Compare the above comments with P.V.O and identify the area to be corrected.  Develop a new pattern called fit pattern (P.V.I).  Check whether the new pattern made tally with the revised measurement chart & if all the comments have been incorporated, mention it on the comment sheet.  Check P.V.I and pattern check report.  Destroy previous version hard pattern and maintain in soft copy.  Repeat the above process till fit sample is approved.5. After receiving the approval for fit samples (PPS- preproduction samples), the final approved pattern must be graded to cover the size range.  Follow the grade rules specified by buyer in the tech pack.  Grades are the sizes required by buyer.  Make block patterns, if required (depending on fabric report)  Check all the sizes comparing them with each other to see that grading as per grading rule.  Prepare pattern check report for each size to ensure all measurements are tallying with measurement chart.  Write all reference no., pattern version, name of pattern, number of cut, style no, grain line etc.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 36 NIFT, BANGALORE
  37. 37. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Make multiple patterns for wash garments (depending on the % of shrinkage and group of fabric according to shrinkage)LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 37 NIFT, BANGALORE
  39. 39. Apparel internship (2008-2012)CUTTINGCUTTING SECTION AT KI-1The cutting department at KI-1 is stationed at the second floor and it has state of the artgarment spreading and cutting machines. There are 2 types of cutting carried out at KI-1,mainly:  Manual spreading  Machine spreadingLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 39 NIFT, BANGALORE
  40. 40. Apparel internship (2008-2012)The cutting section also has within it the CAD department, the re-cutting department, ithas sections for checking, numbering, and panel checking and sorting.Cutting is done with the help of the CNC Gerber cutter (automated) and manuallythrough straight knife and band knife systems.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 40 NIFT, BANGALORE
  41. 41. Apparel internship (2008-2012)ORGANIZATION CHART Cutting manager Asst Incharge CAD executive CNC technician Heat sealers CAD operator CNC operator Supervisor spreading P. writer CAD assistant Helper CNC spreader Cutter Helper Layer Runner / body embroidery/ printing Supervisor Numbering P. Helper Sorting Re Fusing Cutting helper checking Bundling cutter helper issuer helper helperLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 41 NIFT, BANGALORE
  42. 42. Apparel internship (2008-2012)CUTTING SECTION AT LTK-2The cutting section consists of the production in charge, cutting supervisor, cutter,damage cutter, lay girls, lay helpers & clerk for record maintenance. The production incharge is the person responsible for the entire cutting department. Objective of cutting isto separate fabric parts as replica of pattern pieces in marker plan.For fulfilling this requirement cutting master plays a vital role. As the major cost of thegarment is in the fabric, accounting to 60 % of the total cost, so it is very essential thatactual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by scientific methods & procedures.Furniture & Fixtures: 1. Fabric laying table 2. Weight 3. Numbering stickers 4. Lay paper sheet 5. Bundle card 6. Clamps 7. Pencil 8. Patterns 9. Scissors 10. Storage- racks & trolleys. 11. Measuring tapeQUALITY OBJECTIVES:100% achievement of planned batch production efficiency.Cost / minute: Rs 1.45/-Wage: Rs 0.874 per attended minute.Compliance audit score > 80%Internal audit performance > 90%Attrition rate = <5%LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 42 NIFT, BANGALORE
  43. 43. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Stores, spreading and cutting layoutLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 43 NIFT, BANGALORE
  44. 44. Apparel internship (2008-2012)LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 44 NIFT, BANGALORE
  45. 45. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Cutting department AQL =1.5CUTTING (PATTERN SEPERATION ACCORDING TO SHRINKAGE %) PATTERN COLOUR A B C D E F GThe pattern for easy identification is differentiated with the help of different colouredstickersWhen the fabric swatches are sent for washing the shrinkage % of each lot is observedand depending the shrinkage of each lot and depending on which lot fabric is issuedffrom time to time the cutting QA accordingly gives the patternThis colored sticker method is an in house innovation which is very user friendly and isfollowed till date.FORMATS AVAILABLE IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT:  Cutting check list  Laying check list  Bundle identification  Bundle checking or recutting reports  Lay record  Daily production status reportLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 45 NIFT, BANGALORE
  46. 46. Apparel internship (2008-2012)STAFF IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT  Cutting supervisor  Cutting head  CAD operator  Pattern maker  QA  QA assistant  Production writer  Cutting issuer  Cutters  Re –cutters  Layers  Sorting helpers  Embroidery assistant  Helpers  Panel checkersMachines available in C/S:Machine Model Make QuantityStraight knife Streak -II East man 5Band knife STV-376 Wastema 2End cutters EC-3 East man 4Drilling Dz3-ID Dalian 2Plotter GGT ACCUPLOT Gerber 1 100Fusing machine HBP FA 700 Fiblon 1LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 46 NIFT, BANGALORE
  47. 47. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Fusing machine (complete automatic)Korea fiblonThe machine is divided into  Belt speed  Temperature  Pressure  ON/OFF main  Upper /lower heat temperature  RegulatorFusing material strength is calculated using fusometerThis is used to check the bond strength The machine is japan‟s obha sikiFor example:Fuse line temperature observed:125 degrees centigradeBond strength :400 gmsDuration :15 secsPressure :3 khrLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 47 NIFT, BANGALORE
  49. 49. Apparel internship (2008-2012)SEWINGSewing department is where the actual production takes place. The batch should be setaccording to the style . The batch is set based upon the previous time study. Theproduction target for each day is set according to the time study done by IED in order tomeet the shipment day.The layout set up in this factory was batch & assembly(ETON) layout. The batch layoutis where parts like collar, cuff , front etc are prepared and assembly is where all the batchparts are assembled. As soon as the bundles comes to the sewing section, the productionprocess starts.QUALITY OBJECTIVES:100 % achievement of planned batch production efficiency.Cost / minute = 1.45 /-Wage = Rs 0.874 per attended per minuteCompliance audit score > 80%Internal audit performance > 90%Unauthorized absenteeism < 2%Attrition rate : < 5%LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 49 NIFT, BANGALORE
  50. 50. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Sewing section layout:LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 50 NIFT, BANGALORE
  51. 51. Apparel internship (2008-2012)SEWING: Every tailor is graded A=Rs 4500 B=Rs 4000 C=Rs 3800ORGANISATION CHART: AGM Production Finishing Production manager incharge executive Supervisor PE Asst System Floor incharge Pattern maker controller Checker Asst system APM controller Ironer Supervisor Finishing Helper helper Tailor Helper Operator Finishing helper Batch mover Poly packer Production bank asst Spot wash Alt tailor Production writerLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 51 NIFT, BANGALORE
  52. 52. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART: Receipt of production file from PE Preparation of unit PPS Unit PPS approval QAM Receipt of machine layout Internal PPM External PPM Cutting /ROM CS Accessories from stores Batch setting Load pilot run Approval of pilot runs by QAM/CPQAD/BUYER QA Bulk loading Monitor production as per target End line checking Accountings & handover to system controllerLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 52 NIFT, BANGALORE
  53. 53. Apparel internship (2008-2012) LTK-2 MACHINE LIST Machin TOT e TRAINI AL SEN Tot brought R NG FINISHI IN T al from LINE LINE LINE LINE LINE LINE & SECTI NG/ UNI OU in ALLO other TYPE -1 -2 -3 -4 -5 -6 D ON Cutting T T use TED unit 3 S/N 27 26 30 26 23 26 2 10 8 208 208 587 -379 24 1S/N EC 3 2 1 1 1 1 6 0 0 25 25 93 -68 D/N 16 15 15 10 15 15 0 0 0 86 86 124 -38 D/N CS 1 0 0 0 3 0 1 0 0 2 O/L 1 0 1 6 3 1 8 3 1 44 44 112 -68 BUTTON 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 3 3 19 -16 B/HOLE 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 5 5 17 -12 B.TAKE 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 0 1 9 9 28 -19 KEY.HOLE 1 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 5 5 7 -2 12/N 2 1 0 2 1 0 5 0 0 11 11 0 11 F/OF ARM 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 3 3 0 3 BLIND H 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 WELT 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 -3 XY TACKER 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 2 2 0 FLAT LOCK 1 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 3 3 3 0 SNAP 2 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 FEGGOTING M/C 0 0 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 53 NIFT, BANGALORE
  54. 54. Apparel internship (2008-2012)The sewing floor has 6 linesA- Shift batchB- Regular batchC- Regular batchD- Regular batchE- Shift batchF-regular batchShift batch the batch runs for 16 hours in a day6 am to 2pm and 2.30 to 10.30pm2:00 – 2.30 (lunch for shift batch)The other batches run for 8 ½ hrs and lunch is from 1pm – 1.30pmLunch timing for other departments is 1.30-2.00pmA batch is in one line has 46 machinesB batch is divided into two lines in two different places has 44 machinesC batch is divided into two lines in two different places 49 machinesD batch is in one line has 43 machinesE and f are divided into parts n assembly has 50 and 46 machines respectively.After parts stitching before it goes to assembly each line has a parts bank where theystore the parts which will then be loaded into the assembly line which is switch tracksystem.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 54 NIFT, BANGALORE
  55. 55. Apparel internship (2008-2012)General Manager  Governs the entire unit  Head of the entire unit  Analysis the monthly reports and directly works with the AGM  Discusses the problems to the development team  Plays an integral role in evaluation meeting of the entire organization  Coordinates with chief executive officer about the progress and the issues  Gets the highest salary in the unitAssistant general manager  Is like a factory manager and has roles of a factory manager  Governs the entire production from top  Starting from procurement to shipment  Target is to reach the shipment date  Production manager addresses to the AGM  Reporting to the GM  Unit monthly planning to be prepared by AGM  Order tracking and discuss about the ppm dates etc  Monthly turnover report to be generated by AGMProduction manager:  To look after the production in terms of quantity  Look after the employees in the batch  Supervise the APM‟S  Making sure the target production is reached at the desired time  Coming up with immediate solutions to problems  Keeping a track on production in all the lines  Making changes in PPM if necessary  Try to reach the unit‟s objectivesLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 55 NIFT, BANGALORE
  56. 56. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Approve the daily OVER TIME reports produced by production writersAPM  Direct the supervisors  Head of the entire batch  Have to handle and solve all the problems of the batch  Have to report to the PM  Have to make sure that the batch reaches the required target  Plays an important role in pilot runs  Approves daily DPR  Helps the IE in line balancing  Integral part in PPMSUPERVISORS  Directly interacts to the tailors  First hand experience in batch problems  Always on the floor  Helps in time study  Checks on the production and quality hourly  Takes care of the tailors  Can increase the tailors salary if finds them worth  Rates the tailorsSYSTEM CONTROLLERIt is a department where the system controlling head takes care of movement of  Cutting panels  Parts bank  Finished garmentsLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 56 NIFT, BANGALORE
  57. 57. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Cutting panels once it is out of the cutting department the system controller has to the sign the report which has the details of the number of panels coming to the shop floor  And it has to tally to the report generated by the sewing department  Any case of missing panels the system controller has to recheck and analyse or else this department will be held responsible  In case of parts bank it has to keep a track on the parts going from parts batch to assembly  In case of finished goods  It has to keep a track on the finished garments going to the finishing department and from there to washing to the head office if necessaryLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 57 NIFT, BANGALORE
  59. 59. Apparel internship (2008-2012)FINISHINGFinishing section consists of the various operations like trimming, ironing, measurementchecking, folding is carried out. In trimming operation sides of the pocket, seams, cuffs(if any) i.e. tiny extensions of the thread are trimmed to give a uniform and finished lookto the garment. After trimming the general checking is done to see the above processesare carried out correctly or not. Ironing is done to set crease wherever required and toremove unwanted wrinkles. This gives a finished look to the garment. After ironing thegarment is sent for final checking where the garment is finally checked for any flaws anddefects. After the final checking the garments are sent for measurement checking beforethe folding operation, here the garment is checked for its measurements against originals.This step is the last operation in finishing which is folding, this includes fastening of allthe tags in proper fashion and folding the garment as per the buyer‟s requirement.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 59 NIFT, BANGALORE
  60. 60. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Finishing section layoutLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 60 NIFT, BANGALORE
  61. 61. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART: FINISHING SECTION Receipt of production file & packing approval Receipt of garments from system controller Middle checking AQL inspection Receipt of poly packing approval De dusting with blower Pressing De dusting & removal of cut thread Presentation checking Measurement checking Folding Tagging Poly bag packing To packing sectionLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 61 NIFT, BANGALORE
  62. 62. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART: PACKING SECTION Receipt of poly packed garment from finishing section Sorting out of garments Cartoning & marking Packed AQL by CPQAD Buyer certification ShipmentLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 62 NIFT, BANGALORE
  63. 63. Apparel internship (2008-2012)STEP ONE• Checking label forA) Style No.B) PO No.• Affixing the price tag• Folding the garment• Placing folded garment in polythene bag and closing the bag• One bag will have one garment.STEP TWO• All the garments placed in polythene bag will undergo Metal detector test• Tested garments will be segregated size wiseSTEP THREE• Setting up carton box• Mentioning product details on the carton box• Placing the garments into carton box• Closing and sealing the carton box• PACKING COMBINATIONS1) Solid color and solid size2) Solid color and assorted size3) Solid size and assorted color.4) Assorted color and assorted size.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 63 NIFT, BANGALORE
  64. 64. Apparel internship (2008-2012)QUALITY ASSURANCEEnsuring the production of the garment with reference to the standard specification isknown as quality control. Quality of the garment is inspected in various stages fromfabric to finished garment.Fabric QualityOnce the fabric is received by the stores, it is checked by quality department by 4 pointsystem. Rejection of fabric should be informed to the supplier before 1 week, in case ofno information from the garment unit, the fabric is considered as accepted by the unit andthe supplier won‟t accept any more rejections. So, quality team should work as soon asfabric in-house happens.Common defects found during 4 point inspection 1. Broken stitches 2. Contamination 3. Double pick 4. Miss weave 5. Miss end 6. Stain 7. Slub 8. Stop mark 9. Miss point 10. Knots 11. Mend markLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 64 NIFT, BANGALORE
  65. 65. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Marker inspectionThe marker plan is inspected for quality parameters before cutting operation. Theparameters include marker length, number of parts, garment size as per pattern, markingsas per pattern, grain lines, notches, marker matching one way, position of numberingplaces.Lay inspectionThe defects occurring during spreading are inspected after the process. The commondefects obtained are to be minimized and account for the following i.e. lay length, laytension, selvedge edge cut, ply height, number of plies, lay alignment etc.Cut part inspectionComponents of the garments are to be cut with dimension of pattern to ensure bettersewing operation. To enhance it some of the common defects that are inspected arenotches, and frayed edges, cut part to pattern check.Sewing inspectionIn this, inspection is done at several stages which are as follows:  Inline inspection - The sewn parts such as Cuff, sleeve attachment, pocket attachment are inspected.  End – of – line Audit – In this auditing of garment Seams, loops, Cuff attachment, and hems.  Pockets and seams are inspected for defects. The defects identified are: Uneven top stitch, broken or skip stitch, wrong SPI, loose tension, marking mismatch etc.  Label- missing, misplaced, slanted, wrong thread, raw edge, uneven tension etc Pocket- Up-down, raw edge, skip, broken or down stitch, uneven topstitch, shade variation, puckeringLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 65 NIFT, BANGALORE
  66. 66. Apparel internship (2008-2012)  Hem- Improper overlap stitch, roping, puckering, seam mismatch, broken, skip , tension, raw edge  Side Seam- Raw edge, puckering, SPI wrong, uneven stitch, wrong thread, broken, skip, down stitchThese are mostly occurring defects in garment production. An hourly report is maintainedand accordingly settings are kept in production line. In the final inspection AQLStandards (according to buyer requirement ) is adopted to maintain quality.Accepted quality levelIt is the maximum quality level with tolerance within which the product can be acceptedfor its quality, beyond which the product can be rejected. The following chart is used toaccess quality: AQL Lot Size Sample Size 1.5 2.5 4.0 A R A R A R 2-8 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 9-15 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 16-25 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 26-50 8 0 1 0 1 1 2 51-90 13 0 1 1 2 1 2 91-150 20 1 2 1 2 2 3 151-280 30 1 2 2 3 3 4QUALITY OBJECTIVES:Failed audits % = <5%End line defects % = < 10%Cost of poor quality = < 2% of wage billShort shipment % = < 0.3%LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 66 NIFT, BANGALORE
  68. 68. Apparel internship (2008-2012)MATERIALS DEPARTMENTResponsible for  Receipt,  Storage,  Distribution,  Record keeping and  Identifying surplus and deficient quantities of materials. 1. RECEIPT OF MATERIAL When the materials reach the concerned factories, the inward clerk of material department check the purchase order, invoice, packing slip etc., to ascertain style number, quantity ordered and received, and other specifications of the material. Variations if any between ordered material and received will be brought to the notice of concerned merchandiser to sort out the matter. 2. STORING OF MATERIAL After receipt the material will be stored properly in the respective stores. Before issuing the material for production they have got to be checked/ tested by Raw Material Quality Assurance (RMQA) department. Therefore the material to be given for RMQA will marked with orange colour sticker. After RMQA test the material will be marked with green colour sticker. 3. ISSUING MATERIAL Materials checked by RMQA will be issued to production department for cutting. Sometimes material is issued from one factory to another depending upon the factory in which a particular style is manufactured. For this purpose the dispatch clerk has to prepare delivery challen (DC) and enter in the security counter.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 68 NIFT, BANGALORE
  69. 69. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 4. SURPLUS/ DEFICIENT MATERIAL STATUS Materials department is also responsible for detecting surplus / deficient quantity of materials. It will prepare surplus quantity status and advice merchandising department to plan for extra garments. In case of deficiency it will follow up with import, sourcing and merchandising department to ensure that remaining quantity is brought at right time. 5. PROCEDURE FOR IMPORTED MATERIAL Apart from the procedure mentioned above additional formalities have to be completed in respect of imported material. When the material arrives at the respective factories the security department will break open the seal of consignment. Important documents like packing slip, invoice, bill of entry etc., will be checked by inward clerk of materials department. For each imported consignment get a bond number allotted by customs department through EXIM department. The bond number has to be entered in the inward register.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 69 NIFT, BANGALORE
  70. 70. Apparel internship (2008-2012)STORESEOUDTA  EXPORT ORIENTED UNITS ARE o LTK-4 o KI-2  DUTY TARRIF AREA o LTK-2 o KI-1DTA pays duties entirely and gets the fabricEOU does not pay the duties and get the fabric; it is as if the fabrics are with customsdeptDTA cannot give fabric to EOUEOU can give fabrics to DTAEOU – export oriented unitDTA – domestic traffic areaFabric storesThe fabric is issued, stored and inspected here. The fabric is only stored, relaxed andissued to the production floor after cutting. The inspection of the fabric is done here.The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. Here 100% fabric inspection isdone.The formula used to calculate total points are:A – Total defect points observed.Net points = (A x 10000)/ (width in cms x length in meters).If this value is greater than 22, than the roll is rejected.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 70 NIFT, BANGALORE
  71. 71. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Trims storesThe store maintains both capital and non-capital requirements of the factory. The capitalrequirements of the factory are concerned with the files for maintenance records, datastorage devices, and computers etc. The non-capital requirements are the products usedfor the garment production. The products are sewing threads, labels, zippers, accessories,trims, rivets, fasteners etc. these materials are to be sourced / acquired as per buyer‟srequirement before the actual production.Furniture & Fixtures a) Store Racks b) Trim Storing Racks c) Fabric Inspection MachineQUALITY OBJECTIVES:  100% of time materials issued to sampling with in the stipulated time.  100% of the time submission of trim cards with in the stipulated time.  100% upto date maintenance of store records.  100% submission of counting report with in the stipulated time. Head office team ; Clearance of materials shortage and rejections for all the counting reports within the stipulated time. 100% time stock confirmation with in the stipulated time from the left out bonds. DTA units : 100% of times submission of counting reports with in the stipulated time. 100% planning of extra garments in stage 3. Zero % production loss due to materials departmentLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 71 NIFT, BANGALORE
  72. 72. Apparel internship (2008-2012) EOU units : 100% of time submission of counting reports within the stipulated time. 100% planning of extra garments in stage 3 100% updation of regulatory and statutory records. Zero % production loss due to material departments.NIKESampling plan chartWoven fabrics yards/mts Inspection quantityless than 2000 yards One roll or 10% which ever is >(1,800mts)2001 to 20,000 yds 10%(1,801-18,000mts)20001-50000 yds 5%(18001-46000mts)Over 50000 yds 3%(46001 mts)Knit fabrics Inspection quantityless than 2000 yards One roll or 10% which ever is >(1,800mts)2001 to 5000 yds 10%(1,801-4600mts)Over 2000yds 3%LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 72 NIFT, BANGALORE
  73. 73. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Nike acceptable pointFabric type Ind roll pts/100 yds Shipment pointsWoven fabric 20 20Warp knit 20 20Knit fabric 25 20(open or tubular)Acceptance criteria TommyFabric type Roll point /100 yds Shipment pointsWoven fabric 28 20Knits 36 30L.T KARLE sampling planFABRIC ROLL POINT SHIPMENT POINTWoven /knitted 20 20LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 73 NIFT, BANGALORE
  74. 74. Apparel internship (2008-2012) ORGANISATION CHART: HOD STORES EXECUTIVE STORES JUNIOR EXECUTIVE DOCUMENTATION PLANNING TEAM TEAMComputeroperator Senior assistant Senior fabric and assistant DC & accessories Annexure Senior stock assistant Material issues Senior assistant inwardAssistant fieldwork Helpers Senior Senior assistant assistant fabric accessories Assistant Assistant accessories fabric LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 74 NIFT, BANGALORE
  75. 75. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART – INWARD PROCESS: Stores Receipt Order Status Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS Prepare material Requirement Plan Receipt Of Consignment Inward Process Package verification against Supplier Invoice / Packing Unit Inhouse Status Report Lab Test Forward counting report to merchandising Trim card through HO materials Pass Fail Inspection process Approved Rejected Quality check Pass Fail Generation of counting Report Conditionally approved by Rejected RMQAM / Buyer Forward counting report Inform to purchase executive to HO Storage in rejected area Send it back to Storage of passed materials suppliers Disposal after 6 monthsLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 75 NIFT, BANGALORE
  76. 76. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Updated MRP Balance material status follow up Forward bills to account for payment Issues to sub stores with issue slip Issue of fabric to cutting section Issues of trims to production based on lay record based on MRS Receipt of end bits from cutting Receipt of left out materials from section production Recutting process OCR OCRLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 76 NIFT, BANGALORE
  77. 77. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART – IUT Stores Receipt of loading schedule from HO Receipt of Bill Of Materials - QAMS Update status to production Receipt Of Materials Inward Process Package verification against packing list for weight & no of packages Materials received with ispection Materials received without inspection Generate in house status report Lab test Trim card for accessories Storage of materials Forward ISI to In style wise house unit & Yes No pass materials - HO Rejected To be inspected Inspection processLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 77 NIFT, BANGALORE
  78. 78. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Inspection pass Inspection fail Quality checking Conditionally approved by Rejected buyer Counting report Storage in rejected Area Forward CR to materials Dpt – HO – CC to inhouse unit Send the materials to inhouse unit with counting report Storage of passed material Updated MRP BMS follow up Update status to production Issues to sub store with issue slip Issues of fabric to cutting Issues of trims to production section based on lay record based on MRS Receipt of end bits from Receipt of left over cutting section materials from production Recutting process OCR OCRLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 78 NIFT, BANGALORE
  79. 79. Apparel internship (2008-2012)StoresObjective: Receipt, storage and issue of raw materials and packing materials in order toensure smooth productionScope:This procedure is applicable for receipt storage and issue of all types of raw materialsResponsibility:  merchandising department  Import department  Raw material quality assurance  Materials departmentMaterials department: depending on the documents from merchandiser through materialsdepartment HO on receipt of order statusBased on BOM stores planning team shall prepare the following documents  MRP  Running length material work sheet  Thread work sheetLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 79 NIFT, BANGALORE
  80. 80. Apparel internship (2008-2012)IUT PROCESSProduction unit shall collect the following documents from-HO materials department onreceipt of loading schedule  Production file  Carton box work sheet  Poly bag work sheetMRP and thread worksheet shall be prepared by the unitStorage of accepted items Storage if failed items (identified by blue sticker) Storage of conditionally approved items (C.A on the blue sticker) Storage of rejected items (red sticker) Once in 6 months review for decision on disposalLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 80 NIFT, BANGALORE
  81. 81. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART – TRIMS Receipt of trims consignment in material department Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt Send samples to lab & proceed inspection Trim card – send to merchandiser Go for inspection – AQL Metal detection & heat transfer test Pick samples for inspection as per AQL norms Fail Do inspection as per laid out instruction If fail in any test Check lab test report & merchandiser If no approval report If yes Do not proceed further inform HOD & act as per Make inspection report instruction Pass AQL fail Pass quantity – store in pass Do 100% inspection inspection area / counting Rejected quantity – store in rejected area Inform HOD for further actionLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 81 NIFT, BANGALORE
  82. 82. Apparel internship (2008-2012)PROCESS FLOW CHART – FABRICS: Receipt of fabric consignment in material department Collect PO & packaging list from materials Dpt Send samples to lab Wash program Swatch cutting non wash program Send swatches from 100% rolls to lab for shrinkage test Shade band & colour Run card Fabric relaxation projection 100% relaxation / ironing & fusing shrinkage Center to selvedge colour verification Width measurement Fabric quality inspection as per 4 point system Inform HOD & Fail act as per Check lab test report instruction Summary report Take decision about acceptance / rejection by head of RMQALT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 82 NIFT, BANGALORE
  83. 83. Apparel internship (2008-2012) IE DEPARTMENTLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 83 NIFT, BANGALORE
  84. 84. Apparel internship (2008-2012)INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERINGIndustrial Engineering Department is one of most important department in the industry.It helps in up gradation of the production department with different types of studies in thedepartment like capacity, time, production, motion study. To improve the production &achieve target in time it is setup in batch & SAM (standard allotted minute) is calculated.IED follows the GENERAL SEWING DATA (GSD) systemProductivity = the ratio of output produced to the input resources utilized in theproduction.QUALITY OBJECTIVES:100% of time actual SMV shall match with costed SMV with +/- 5% variation (monthly)100% of time actual thread consumption shall match with costed thread consumptionwith +/- 5% variation (monthly).Preparation for the styles so as to reach learning curve targets min of 95%.Maintain helper numbers in sewing line as per SMV‟s (with 5% max variation)Functions of IE department at Karle:Industrial Engineering (IE) department in Karle Group is located in new head office. Ithas two wings. Each of the wings has two teams namely development team working fromhead office and Implementation team working at our apparel factories. The departmentuses specialized software called GSD (general sewing data). 1) Feasibility study: The development team studies the tech pack and determines whether a particular style is possible to manufacture in our organization considering the facilities/resources we have. This information will help the organization to decide whether to accept or reject a particular business proposal.LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 84 NIFT, BANGALORE
  85. 85. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 2) Time study: The development team studies the time required for manufacturing a particular style. For this purpose the various operations involved in a style are segregated and time required for performance of each operation is calculated. By adding all these time requirements the basic minutes is derived. Another 15% to 20% time is added as human fatigue to determine the time required for manufacturing a garment which is called standard minute value (SMV). This information is required by costing, production planning and production departments. 3) Calculating thread consumption: The development team determines the requirements of thread for manufacturing a style. This information is required for the (a) costing department to arrive at the price to be quoted for the buyer, and (b) merchandising department to decide the quantity of thread to be purchased. 4) Simplifying the style process: The development team works with technicians of sampling department to simplify the construction of a garment at the product development stage itself. 5) Making a sample piece at the factory: After the pre production meeting and before the pilot run production, the implementation team at the unit will prepare a sample piece of the garment to understand the technicalities involved in a style. Difficulties if any found at this level will be resolved by discussing with development team and sampling department. 6) Skill matrix for tailors: The implementation team is responsible for preparing skill matrix of all the tailors working in the unit. This will help the industrial engineers to understand the skill level of each and every tailor so that they can be deployed at appropriate places in the production line. 7) Batch Setting: Before loading a style to production line, the implementation team has to ensure that the number of production lines is available, all machines are in proper condition and there is sufficient number of trained people to handle all the critical operations. 8) Line Balancing: The implementation team has to study the process involved, the time required for each operations, the competent tailors to be placed at eachLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 85 NIFT, BANGALORE
  86. 86. Apparel internship (2008-2012) machine of the production line, and the tasks to be performed by each tailors so that all the tailors in the line get the work properly distributed. 9) Actual time study: The SMV calculated by development team is only an estimate done in controlled condition at head office The implementation team will actually do the time study at the factory after a style is loaded for mass production. This will help the I.E. department to ascertain the variation between the SMV calculated by development team and the actual time consumed for making a garment. It will also help the production planning department to fix the daily production targets for the production functionaries. 10) Daily production report: The implementation team prepares the daily production report for each style and sends it to production planning department.Role of IEPre productionAnalyze the garmentSee the 3 M‟s: MAN MATERIAL AND MACHINE requirement for the particulargarment and quantityThis includes  Operation break down  Thread consumption report  Machine list  Machine layoutDuring productionLine balancing  Theoretical balancing :based on the SMV values  Dynamic balancing: practical one based on the absenteeismLT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 86 NIFT, BANGALORE
  87. 87. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Post productionAfter the production is over the IE has to report to the development team if there has tobe any changes or any kind of problems faced during the production so that thoseproblems don‟t repeat.Data analysis is done based on the reports generatedOn efficiency, minute, cost, man and machine etcThread consumptionInstruction 1. List down the operation of the garment and enter the type of ink used as per bulletin in the operations and machine consumption separately. 2. Measure the scam length of each oper cms using a calibrated measuring tape by excluding the margin. 3. Per each operation add 5cms allowance to the scan length on either side of the scan for scan margin and wastage in threading and enter the values in scan length 4. Enter the number of scans for each operation in frequency collumn. 5. Refer the ratio chart and enter the ratio for each type of machine / stich type used for the operation in the “ratio column. 6. Calculate thread consumption for each operation by formula given below: Thread consumption in cms =SEAM LENGTH X FREQUENCY X RATIO 7. Add the thread consumption for all operations to obtain total thread consumption for garment in cms. 8. Categorise thread consumption machine wise. 9. Calculate thread consumption in meters and enter in thread deatails. 10. Compare thread type colour/quality/stich/density with instructions given in style file. 11. Refer the calculations done and the thread details table to categorise the consumption for each thread type enter the values in thread summary. THREAD RATIOS AND CONSUMPTION Single needle SPi needle bobbin Total ratio 10-12 1.25 1.25 1:2.5 12-14 1.5 1.5 1:3LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 87 NIFT, BANGALORE
  88. 88. Apparel internship (2008-2012) Single needle top stitch-thicker thread. Spi needle bobbin Total ratio 7 1.5 1.5 1:3 8 1.6 1.4 1:3 Double needle Spi needle bobbin Total ratio 10-12 2.5 2.5 1:5 12-14 3 3 1:6 Chain stich Spi needle looper Total ratio 10-12 2 4 1:6 12-14 2 4 1:6 14-16 3 4 1:7 3 thread overlock Sp1 needle looper Total ratio 10-12 5 15 1:20 12-14 5 17 1:22 14-16 7 19 1:26LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 88 NIFT, BANGALORE
  89. 89. Apparel internship (2008-2012) 5thread overlock Spi needle looper Total ratio 10-12 5 15 1:20 12-14 5 17 1:22 14-16 7 19 1:26 Single needle No.of plys needle looper Total ratio 4 ply 2 1.4 1:3.4 2ply 1.6 1.4 1:32 needle flat lock (top and bottom cover) Spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Top looper Bottom Total looper 12 2.5 1.5 4 8.25 1:16.25 4 12.252 needle flat lock (top and bottom cover ) spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Top looper Btm looper total 12 3 4 6.4 10 1:23.4 7 16.43 needle flat lock(top and bottom cover ) Spi Needle 1 Needle 2 Needle top btm Total 3(center) 12 2.75 2.5 3.5 7.75 11.5 1:284 needle flat lockSpi Needle 1 Needle 2 Needle 3 Needle 4 Top Btm total looper loop12 2 2.5 2.75 2.25 6.25 14.25 1:30 20:5 9.54 thread over lockSpi Needle1 Needle 2 toploop Btm loop total10 2 1.5 5.5 6.25 1:15.2514 3.5 2.5 7 8 1:21 6 15LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 89 NIFT, BANGALORE
  90. 90. Apparel internship (2008-2012)Example of thread worksheet of LT KARLE FO IE/F RM M/0 L.T.KARLE NO 2 THREAD CONSUMPTION CALCULATION & Co RE V.N 02 O MERCHANDISIN DA TO DEPT G TE GI 9/1/2011 DEVELOPMENT INDUSTRIAL FROM DEPT VE TEAM ENGG N STYLE NO 1J1245 BASED ON PPS DESCRIPTI Jacket SIZE M ON BUYER A&F SEAM PART T RA OPERA MACHI SP LENGT FREQU S E TI CONSUMP TIONS NE I H IN ENCY NAME X O TION CMS Hood 10 1.2 panels att snt 60 - 74 2 185 5 fell seam 12 10 1.2 snb 40 - 74 2 185 5 12 Hood 15 8- panels att tmncs 81 4 3 972 0 10 FOA 8- bmncs 80 81 4 4 1296 Hood 10 Hood 10 1.2 btm pnls snt 60 - 34 2 85 5 att shell 12 10 1.2 snb 40 - 34 2 85 5 12 Hood 15 8- btm pnls tsn 41 2 1.6 131.2 0 10 att top st bsn 80 8- 41 2 1.4 114.8LT KARLE – ANOOP SINGH & RAJEEV SHARAN 90 NIFT, BANGALORE