Final document interns-BSL

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BSL SUITINGS LTD

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP
REPORT
[BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE MANUFACTURING
PROCESSES OF BSL ]

Submitted By:
Dilip Singh
Kumar Sarvesh

Duration of Internship: Prashant Gaurav

28th December 2010-8th January Rajeev Sharan
2011
Department of Fashion
Technology,
NIFT, Bangalore

Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH,
PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Any work can only be satisfactorily completed with the help of some individuals. Our
internship at BSL, Mandapam, Bhilwara is not an exception to this rule.
We are extremely grateful to Mr. A.K.Mehta, Vice-President, BSL for giving us such a
golden opportunity to carry out our study in such a prestigious company.
We would also like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. A.K. Jain ( head of spinning
Department ) , Mr. D.B. Muley ( head of Weaving Department) , Mr. A. Zaroo ( head of
Processing Department) , Mr. S.L. Somani ( head of Top Dyeing Department ) , Mr. S.G.
Moghe (head of Design and Development Department ) , Mr. G. C. Jain (head of Marketing
Department), Mr. Bhaskar Verma ( head of SQC ), Mr. C.S Sharma ( head of R& D ), Mr.
Maheshwrai ( General Manager , Exports ), Mr. Kudeep ( Export officer) for guiding us
during our project at their department and giving their valuable inputs.
We are also thankful to Mr. K.M.Kogata, Personal Manager, P&A, BSL for mentoring us
during our stay here.
We would also like to express my gratitude to all the people who have contributed to our
knowledge of textile through our studies at National Institute Of Fashion Technology,
Bangalore. We would also like to acknowledge Mrs Sudha Singh our mentor for the textile
internship.
Last, but not the least, we would like to thank the supervisors and operators who helped us to
understand the working of various machinery throughout our study.

Thank You.

Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT
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Table Of Contents
Sr. No. Content Page No.
1. Introduction 4

2. Objectives Of the Study 5

3. Company Profile 6

4. Spinning Division 11

5. Statistical Quality Control Department 31

6. Weaving Division 36

7. Processing Division 53

8. Research & Development Department 74

9. Design Development & Marketing Department 80

10. Conclusion 89

11. Annexure 90

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Introduction
Training in industry infuses among students a sense of critical analysis of the whole
production system and different situations arising in an organisation. Trainings are bold
attempts to bridge the gap between the world of work and the knowledge at the institutions. It
enables us to see our theoretical knowledge in operation. It helps us make better professionals
and learn the practical knowledge of the production system. Our training at BSL, Mandapam
was no different it helped us gain the practical knowledge of the textile manufacturing. The
process of production extending for spinning of fibres, their conversion to fabric was more
fascinating than it looked in the books.
Textile manufacturing is one of largest business operations taking place in India. It gives
employment to a very large population of the country nest only to agriculture. For a student
of garment manufacturing technology knowledge of textile is very relevant because the
garment manufacturing is based completely dependent on the textiles. The thrust area of the
internship was to learn the complete production process of textile manufacturing. Our ten
days long internship gave us the thorough knowledge of the textile manufacturing. It gave us
the knowledge about the various processes taking place in spinning of the fibre. It gave us the
knowledge about the processes involving conversion of the fibre to the fabric through the
weaving process. It also gave us the information regarding the various processing activities
taking place in the finishing and dyeing of the fabric. This internship, we hope will help in
developing us as better garment manufacturing professional as the knowledge of textile is
pivotal in making good garment manufacturing professional. This internship has given us the
required confidence to face the various situations arising in a work place.
This report is a written account of what we have observed and learnt during our ten day long
internship at BSL, Mandapam.

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Objectives
To study the organisational structure of an integrated textile mill.
To study the processes of spinning, weaving & processing of textile.
To study the equipments & machineries installed at the textile mill.
To study the guidelines established for various divisions of textile manufacturing unit.
To study the procedure of development of samples.
To study the various activities of marketing division of the unit.

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COMPANY PROFILE

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In the days when the idea of manufacturing poly-viscose suiting was a unique concept in
India, the second member of the LNJ Bhilwara Group, BSL Ltd., was born in the desert state
of Rajasthan. The year was 1971 and the town where this happened was Bhilwara. Over the
years, with the belief that there are no shortcuts to excellence, at BSL they have moved from
strength to strength.
Today, as a multi-million dollar company, and having put the Group firmly on the
international map of premium suitings, they are one of the prominent members of the US$
363 million LNJ Bhilwara Group.

Experience
With over quarter of a century of experience in textile manufacturing, BSL is currently
producing over 12 million meters of fabric every year. Product profile covers material
ranging from wool, wool-blended and premium lightweight fabrics, to wool modal, Trevira
wool and other specialised fabrics blended with Lycra, Silk, Linen, Tencel etc.

Products:

1) Yarns to Fashion Fabrics: BSL is one of the leading manufacturers of fashion fabrics
and yarns in India. They produce a wide range of polyester viscose fabrics and premium
range of worsted suitings, including Cashmere, Mohair, Angora and Camelhair blends.
They use the finest Australian Merino wool for making woollen fabrics & the Low Pill
Trevira polyester for making wool blends, which are imported from Hoechst, Germany.
For making special fibre fabrics, They use silk imported from China.
The dyes and chemicals used for for manufacturing fabric are procured leading
companies like Clariant, BASF, Ciba, Bayer and Henkel. And, keeping up with the
rapidly changing consumer behaviTheir towards the readymade garments segment, BSL
has made forays in this segment with ready-made trousers under La Italia brand name. It
has also recently launched a range of premium readymade shirts and accessories under
La Italia brand
2) BSL Yarns: These are made from the finest Australian Merino wool that is spun to
perfection on latest manufacturing systems. Meeting the most stringent international
quality standards, yarns comprise a sizeable chunk of the company's export turnover.
This is possible because of the company's stringent quality policy and attention to detail
at every stage of production.
3) Polyester Wool Blended Suitings
BSL's polyester wool blended suitings offer a perfect blend of 100% Australian New
Merino Wool ranging from 22.5 to 17 microns and Treveira/ Tergal polyester. This
combination of natural and man-made fibers in 2/24 Nm to 2/100 Nm offers the best of
both the worlds.
The pure Merino Wool lends it the richness and sophistication, while the polyester
endows it with an exciting fall and feel. This makes the fabric ideal for light winter,
formal and party-Theyar for both men and women.

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BSL also offers specialised fabrics of wool blended with Lycra, Linen, Silk, Tencel,
Modal etc.
4) Polyester Viscose & Polyester Cotton Blended Suitings
These exciting modern fabrics are created through blends of the finest quality polyester,
viscose and Polyester cotton.Thanks to the most advanced Theyaving and processing
technology , BSL presents a fabric with yarns of 2/15 Ne to 2/60 Ne that are impeccable
and finest in finish.
5) Purewool Suitings
Immaculate Purewool Suitings is created from the purest of raw materials--Australian
New Marino Wool in 22.5 mocrons to 17 microns with yarns of 2/24 Nm to 2/80 Nm.
Soft to touch and superior in drape, this is a result of a flawless blending of the finest
wool with latest technology. BSL Purewool suitings are both fashionable and elegant.
With an amazing natural softness, the fabric is ideal for fashioning Men's as Theyll as
Ladies Theyar.
6) Readymade Garments
BSL is setting trends with its La Italia premium range in the world of fashion. Available
in a variety of fabrics like cotton, polycotton, polywool and polyester viscose, the
premium range of trousers has been a run away success in the readymade garment
segment. The La Italia range of trousers is available in straight, relaxed and wrinkle-free
fits.
The recently launched readymade shirts and accessories range under the same name has
been accepted by the discerning public.

Rewards
BSL‟s commitment to quality through technology and human ingenuity, has earned BSL
numerous laurels and awards like ISO 9002 quality certification besides the National
Certificate of Merit for outstanding export performance. They are ready to meet the challenge
in the years to come and take BSL to higher pinnacles of success.

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Organisational structure of BSL (Processing Divison)

PERSONNEL
PERSONNEL GM (P & A)
MANAGER

PV DYEING DYEING SUPTD

GREY

FABRIC GM (FABRIC
PROCESSING PROCESSING) OSPG

QUALITY FINISHING
QUALITY PV FINISHING COMMERCIAL
CONTROL SUPTD
CONTROL BPL FOLDING
OFFICER

PW FINISHING DGM

MARKETING

STORES DY MANAGER

VICE
PRESIDENT PURCHASE ASST MANAGER

FIBRE DYEING GM
TOPS & FIBRE
DYEING MASTER
DYEING

SILK DYEING DYEING MASTER

PLANT
ENGINEERING CHIEF ENGINEER
ENGINEER

CHEIF
ACCOUNTS
ACCOUNTANT

ASSST BUDGET
COMMERCIAL SR MANAGER COSTING
OFFICER

EXCISE
EDP DY GM EXCISE
INCHARGE

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ORGANISATIONAL CHART FOR SPINNING SECTION(POLYESTER VISCOSE)

PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION
SUPRETENDENTS

QUALITY
QUALITY
VICE PRESIDENT CONTROL
CONTROL
OFFICER

ENGINEERING CHIEF ENGINEER PLANT ENGINEER

ORGANISATIONAL CHART FOR WEAVING SECTION (POLYESTER VISCOSE)

GENERAL PRODUCTION
PRODUCTION
MANAGER SUPRETENDENTS

INSPECTION
INSPECTION
SUPRETEDENTS
QUALITY
QUALITY
VICE PRESIDENT CONTROL
CONTROL
OFFICER
MENDING
MENDING
SUPRETENDENTD

ENGINEERING CHIEF ENGINEER PLANT ENGINEER

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SPINNING DIVISION

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Process flow chart for polyester viscose spinning unit

VISCOSE POLYESTER FIBRE

BLENDER

BLOW ROOM

CARDING

BREAKER DRAW FRAME

FINISHER DRAW FRAME

SIMPLEX

RING FRAME

AUTOCONER

ASSEMBLY WINDING

DOUBLING & WINDING

CONDITIONING

INSPECTION & PACKING

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RAW MATERIAL:
Common raw materials used in synthetic spinning are polyester and viscose. They are
received in the form of bale in grey condition.
The polyester fibre is supplied by:
1. Reliance industries RECRON fibre – Bale of 375 - 400 kg.
2. Indorama polyester industries, Thailand – Bale of 350 kg
3. JCT – Bale of 350 kg
4. Future polyester fibre industries, manali – Bale of 300 kg

The viscose fibre is supplied by:
1. GRASIM industries Birla cellulose, Nagada – Bale of 200 – 250 kg
There are three godowns for raw material storage in weaving section:
1. Polyester godowns – to store grey polyester fibre
2. Viscose godowns – to store viscose fibre
3. Dyed polyester godowns – to store dyed polyester fibre.

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BLENDING
Blending is process of combining two or more kinds of fibre. Fibres in required ratio are
taken, opened and blended in blenders. During blending anti static sprays are given to the
fibres. The mixing is blended once or twice to ensure proper blending to the fibres. Blending
is done to get desired properties in the finished products. It improves the fabric performance
and helps in maintaining the economy of the product
Different blend composition 65/35, 80/20, 60/40 of polyester viscose blends yarn.

Antistatic Finish:
During blending the fibre is given Antistatic finish to prevent static charge generation as well
as fly generation in the case of manmade fibre.

Chemicals used:

LV40 – prevents static charge generation
2152P – prevents fly generation

Machinery used:
TRUTZSCHLER (Trumac India)
Components of the TRUTZSCHLER blending machine:

Feed lattice
Inclined lattice
Delivery roller
Evener roller
Creeper roller
Stripper roller

4 motors are used in the machine:
1st – Creeper roller
2nd – Feed lattice and inclined lattice
3rd – Evener roller and stripper roller
4th – Delivery roller

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Flow of material in the blender:

FEED INCLINED EVENER DELIVERY BIN
LATTICE LATICE ROLL ROLL ROOM

BLOW ROOM:
The mixing is further opened so that the wastes like hard chips are removed from the mixing,
the tuft size is reduced and better blending of fibre is achieved. This mixture is converted into
laps to be feed in the carding machine.
Following process takes place in the blow room line:
1. Opening – The material enters spinning mills in compressed form to enable optimum
transport and storage. In blow room the bigger tufts of fibre are made into smaller
with minimum possible change to the fibre.
2. Cleaning – To remove foreign seed particles leave from fibers. During opening and
cleaning there is always loss of good fibers. So the blow room line is selected such
that the optimum opening and cleaning is obtained with minimum loss of good fibers.
The cleaning efficiency of cotton in blow room section is approximately 75– 80%.
3. Dust removal – To remove finer impurities like dust particles and very short fibres
by suction units e.g. cages. As the opening of the material increases the dust removal
capacity also increases.
4. Lap formation – Blow room line also facilitates the preparation of laps which are
further fed into the carding machine.
Humidity in the blow room – R.H. – 65% to 75%

Variation:
Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%.

If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.
Lap parameters:

Count Weight Length
8s - 10s 20.0 kg 36 yards
10s – 12s 16.5 kg 30 yards
15s – 20s 20.5 kg 38 yards
24s 20.0 kg 40 yards

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Blow room line:
There are two types of blow room line
1. TRUSTZSCHLER ( Trumac engineering co. Pvt limited, Ahemadabad, India)
2. ZFA017 ( Zhengzhou Textile machinery co. Limited, China)

Components of TRUSTZSCHLER blow room line:

Feed lattice
Creeper lattice
Incline lattice

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Evener roll
Cleaner roll
Steeper roll
Krishner beater
Cage
Shell lattice
Piano roller
Cleaner roll
Steeper roll

Features of TRUSTZSCHLER blow room line:

Number of beating roller – 2 Krishner beater
Speed of 1st krishner beater – 825 rpm
Speed of 2nd krishner beater – 800 rpm
Shell roll speed – 11.5 rpm
Diameter of Shell roll – 10.5 inch
Calendar roll pressure – 4.5 kg per sq. Cm
Lap rod weight – 1.4 kg

Flow of material in blow room line:

FEED SPIKED PIANO KRISHNER CALENDER
FEED ROLL SHELL ROLL
LATTICE ROLL ROLL BEATER ROLL

Clearance setting:

Between 1st beater and feed roll – 10/32 inch
Between 2nd beater and feed roll – 10/32 inch
Between inclined lattice and evener roll – 10 mm
Between feed roll and pedal roll – 0.125 mm

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency)

Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line
Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton
Time taken to produce one lap – approx 4 – 6 min.
No. Of laps produced per hour – approx 12

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CARDING
In carding the fibres are individualised, hard chips, soft fibres and entanglements are
removed. Lap produced in blow room are fed in the carding machine. The product of
carding operation is card slivers.

Objectives:

Individualisation and partial parallelisation of fibres
Fibre to fibre separation
To affect thorough mixing of the Fibre
Removal of remaining trash of B/R process
Conversion of Lap or opened fibre into sliver
Humidity: R.H. – 60% to 65%

The machinery used for carding:

Manufacturer Model Feed mechanism
LMW LC 1/3 Lap feed
LR LC 1/2 Lap feed

Various components of carding machine:

Licker in
Cylinder
Doffer
Feed roll
Calendar roll
Lap roll
Redirecting roll
Group roll

Technical parameter of LC 1/3

Diameter of lap roll – 162 mm
Diameter of feed roll – 80 mm
Diameter of licker in – 253 mm
Diameter of cylinder – 1290 mm
Diameter of doffer – 680 mm
Diameter of calendar roll – 80 mm

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Speed of different moving parts

Lap roller – 1.725
Feed roller – 2.875
Licker in cylinder – 840
Main cylinder – 360
Doffer – 30
Draft constant for LC 1/3 = 2.23

Draft for the machine = 102 (approx)
Clearance setting for various parts:

Licker in to feed plate – 18 TH
Licker in to cylinder – 7 TH
Cylinder to doffer – 4 TH
Doffer to crush roll – 6 TH
Licker in to combing segment – 16 TH

Production in kg/hr at 85% efficiency = 19.4 kg/hour

Wire point specification:
Manufacturer: Lakshmi carding company

Parts Wire point specification
Cylinder R 2520* 0.70
Licker in D 5505* 1.2
Doffer N 4030* 0.85R
Flat PD 32/1
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Stop motion for LC1/3
1. Limit switch for lap tool – it stops the card in case of shortage of lap.
2. Limit switch over feed roll – it stops the card if the feeding of double lap takes place.
3. Limit switch at front panel – it stops the cylinder if the front panel is opened.
4. Limit switch over crush tool – it senses the lapping of the crush tool.
5. Full can change motion – when the can is full of slivers the machine stops and the can is
changed either by tenter or automatically.

DRAW FRAMES

The card sliver is subjected to doubling and drafting process to parallelise the fibres, remove
micro dust and make uniform slivers. Drawing is a two step process: 1. Breaker draw frame
2. Finisher draw frame.

Objectives:

To parallelize the fibers of card sliver and align them to the axes of the sliver through
drafting process. So that in final stage of spinning they can contribute maximum towards
yarn strength.
To improve the regularity in sliver weight per unit length though doubling of sliver.
To mix different slivers to give a homogenous blended sliver.
To straighten out the fiber and improve the fiber extent.
To improve uniformity and evenness so that the final sliver become more regular
resulting Uniform yarn.
1. Breaker Draw Frame – During this process 8 slivers produced by carding machine are
parallelized to produce one sliver.

The machinery in use for breaker drawing frame:

LDO/25 ( maker – Lakshmi industries)
LDO/6 ( maker – lakshmi industries )

Features of LDO/25

Maximum speed – 400 metre per minute
No. Of card sliver – 8
No. Of heads – 2
Drafting system – 3 over 5
Diameter of top roll – 40 mm
Pressure of top roll – 68 – 72 kg
Capacity of the can – 3000 m

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Production capacity for 30s count sliver ( at 85% efficiency ) – 765 kg sliver/shift.
Time taken to fill one can of 3000 m – 10 minutes.
Stop motion in LDO/25 Breaker drawing frame:
1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame
the drawing frame will automatically stop.
2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame
will automatically stop.
3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will
automatically stop.
4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the
machine will stop.

Features of LDO/6

Can size – 24 * 42 inch
No. Of heads – 2
No. Of card slivers per head – 8
Maximum speed – 600 metre per minutes

Production capacity for 30s count ( at 85% efficiency ) – 1100 kg/shift/drawing frame
Stop motion for LDO/6:
1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame
2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame
3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will
automatically stop.
4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the
machine will stop.
The stop motion LDO/6 is similar to the LDO/25 the only difference being the LDO/6
starts automatically once the stoppage causing problem is sorted out.

2. Finisher draw frame
It is done to give further strength and stability to the sliver. The drawn sliver from breaker
draw frame is again drawn. In this process the sliver drawn in the breaker draw frame
further used.

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Machinery used:
LRSB – 851 (RIETER)

Features of LRSB – 851 (RIETER)

Total draft – 8
Number of head – 1
Number of card sliver feed – 8
Can size – 20*40 inch
Number of motors – 4
Diameter of top roll – 38mm
Diameter of calendar roll – 55 mm

Function of motors:
1st motor – main motor for driving machine pulley.
2nd motor – for fan.
3rd motor – for driving servo motor for auto leveller.
4th motor – for automatic can changing.

Production capacity of the finisher drawing frame – 850 kg/shift/drawing frames

Stop motion for LRSB – 851:

Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame
Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame
If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will
automatically stop.
Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the
machine will stop.
Can change stop motion: After the can is filled and another vacant can is not available
the machine will stop for itself unless the empty can is made available.

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SPEED FRAME

The drawn sliver is drafted, slightly twisted and wound on speed frame bobbin, this process
is known as roving.

Objectives:

1. To impart twist.
2. Conversion of sliver into roving.

Machine specification:

There are two types of machine.

Type 1.

Manufacturer LMW
Model LF 1400A
Year 1994
No. Of spindles 108
No. Of machine 1

Type 2.

Manufacturer LMW
Model LFS 1660
Year 2004/2005
No. Of spindles 120
No. Of machine 3

Production-

Under favourable marginal conditions
Cotton- upto 13m.p.m.
Man made – upto 40m/min
Production capacity – 550 kg/shift/frame

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RING FRAME

Spinning of roving bobbin into yarn of required count and twist is done here.

Objective:
1.To impart twist
2.Conversion of roving into single yarn

Technical specifications of ring frame:

Manufacturer LMW
Model LR6/S
Drafting system 3 over 3
Top roll diameter 32.5 mm
Bottom roll diameter 30 mm
Pressure 20 kg
Motor pulley diameter 152 – 187 mm
Total spindle 480

Speeds, drafts and constants:

Front roller speed – 245 rpm
Spindle speed – 15000 rpm

Total production – 100 kg/shift/machine

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AUTOCONER

Objective:
To remove imperfection of spun yarn and make big package in the form of cone.

Technical details

Model Orion
Manufacturer Savio Machine Tessili SPA, Italy
Year 2005
No. Of cones 60

Technical Specifications:
•Drum speed -1300 rpm
•Cone weight (Full) - 2 to 3 Kgs.
•Cone weight (Empty) - 30 to 35 gms.
•Magazine Creel capacity - 6 Ring tubes
•Drum diameter – 3.14 inches

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Salient Feature:
1. Pneumatic disc type tensioner.
2. Splicer is used.
3. Capacitance type electronic yarn clearer (Uster Quantum-2)
4. Fully automatic

Countwise Winding Speed:

Type Count Winding speed
Coarse 15-20s 1200 m/min.
Medium 20-40s 1400 m/min.
Fine 40s and above 1600 m/min.

Machine sequence:

WAXING YARN WINDING
RING TUBE TENSIONER SPLICER CONE
DEVICE CLEARER DRUM

Production capacity for autoconer – 800 to 1200 kg/shift
Special features of Autoconer:

Autoconer is fed by magazine containing 6 reserve ring bobbins and one running ring
bobbin.
Automatic cutting and splicing of thick and thin places and restarting of the winding
Its efficiency is upto 95%.

CHEESE WINDING:

Objective:
To wind two or more threads from cone to cheese without inserting any twist.

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Machine information:
PS Metler

Name PS Metler
Model F.M.K.S
Manufacturer Peas engineering pvt. Limited
No. Of machine 2

Machine sequence

SLUB STOP GUIDE WINDING
CONE YARN GUIDE TENSIONER YARN GUIDE CHEESE
CATCHER MOTION ROLLER DRUM

Salient Feature:
1. Fix blade mechanical type slub catcher.
2. Dead weight type disc Tensioner.
3. Electrical stop motion

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DOUBLING:
In doubling twist is imparted to yarn wound on cheese. There are two processes of doubling.
1. T.F.O – In this process twisting and winding on cones is done simultaneously to provide
knot free yarns.

Objective:
To impart two twist in one rotation of the spindle.

Machine specification:
1.

Name Veejay lakshmi
Model VJ – 150 – HS
Year 2004
No. Of machines 13
No. Of cones 144
2.

Name Prerna
Model PRN – 225
Manufacture Prerna textile industries
Year 1998
No. Of machines 3
No. Of cones 144

Production capacity – 161.20 kg/shift
Technical specification:

Spindle RPM – 9000 to 10000
Traverse length – 155 mm

TPI according to count

Count TPI
18s 12
30s 17
40s 20
50s 20.5

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Machine sequence:

YARN GUIDE STOP TRASVERSE WINDING
CHEESE SPINDLE YARN GUIDE CONE
TRAVELLER MOTION GUIDE DRUM

2. Ring doubling – Here only twist is provided to the parallel wound yarns. These yarns are
the wound in cones at cone winding. At cone winding the yarn is cleared of doubling
defects.

CONDITIONING
Before packing the yarns produced are subjected to a treatment in the conditioning room to
increase the moisture content of the cone according to the requirement. It increases the
weight of the cone marginally.

PACKING

In packing department the cones produced by Autoconer / T.F.O are checked & then
packed in bags. There are 5 checkers and a large number of packers for this purpose. The
defects, which are checked during packing, are:-
1. Mixing of cones
2. 3-Ply
3. High twist / Low twist
4. Contamination
5. Snarling
6.Winding defect (Ribbon formation)
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The standard weight of cone is 2 kgs. Tolerance is± 50 gms. In a bag 32 cones are packed
that is the weight of packed bag is approximately 64 kgs. 8-9 tons cone are packed per
day.This is called loose packing.

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STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL
DEPARTMENT

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The work of statistical quality control department is to control the quality of product being
manufactured through intensive testing during intermediate process and of final product to
give quality assurance to buyers and maintain company standards.

The daily jobs performed by this department are checking naps, counts, hanks, thick and thin
place in slivers, lea strength etc.

Various equipments used and their description:

1. Evenness tester :
Manufacturer: Star Twister
No. Of machines: 2
It gives information about the evenness of the yarn. It works on the principle of the
capacitance. The material is passed between the plates of capacitor, due to dielectric
components of the material, a change in the capacitance of the plates is observed. The
change in capacitance is directly proportional to mass or thickness of the material. A
change is displayed on the display unit.

2. Hairiness tester:
It gives detail about the fibres called hair based on the photoelectric principle. The
tester gives no. Of hairs per unit length and classifies them according to the length.

3. Lea strength tester:
Manufacturer: Kamal metal industries
No. Of machines: 1
It provides information about average yarn strength. The strength can be read from the
axial scale
.
4. Warp blocks
It prepares hank for testing.

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5. Yarn appearance board:
This is a white colour board on which the yarn is wound with the help of trasverse as
in the case of warp reel. It may have more than one yarn each having a few layers.
The board is then observed manually and unevenness in the yarn is observed through
eye.
These are then ranked by comparing with standard boards.

6. Physical balance:
No. Of machines: 2
It is used for weight, lea‟s etc. The data is used for count calculation.
7. Classifault – 6 drums
Manufacturer: KIESOKT
No. Of machines – 1
It is attached with 6 drum miniature cheese winding machine. They have 6 sensor
heads with cutters. It classifies the fault according to their diameter and length. The
fault classification has fixed diameter, in some faults with adjustable length limits and
in other the parameters are adjustable.
8. Twist tester
Manufacturer: 1. Star STT
2. KAYCEE industries limited
To test yarn is gripped in two jaws, one of which is fixed and the other can rotate. The
rotating jaw is connected to a motor and control unit. We feed the maximum amount
of turns required to untwist the yarn in the control unit along with the direction of the
twist before starting the machine.

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9. Stelometer
No. Of machine: 1
It is used to check the strength of the blending/ mixing to check for the blend
homogeneity of the mixture.

10. Electronic balance
No. Of machine: 2
The balance has been attached to a computer and gives the count/hank of the material
directly.
11. Torsion balance
No. Of machine: 1
It is used for the denier estimation of polyester and viscose by cotton weight. The
result is displayed in g/tex.

12. Mangnoscope
No. Of machine: 1
It is used to check the number of fibre.

13. Electronic tensile tester
No. Of machine: 1
It is used to check the yarn elongation strength of a single yarn.

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14. Rapid drying unit
No. Of machine: 1
It is used to check the moisture content in fibre.

15. Oil extracting machine
No. Of machine: 1
It is used to check for the presence of oil in the material.

16. Top tester
No. Of machine:1
It is used to check for the number of NEP per gram of the sliver.

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WEAVING

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RAW MATERIAL SECTION

Raw material is stored at the raw material gowdon. The store in charge is responsible for
keeping a track of all the yarns coming to the weaving section. Most yarn required for
weaving is produced at spinning section of the BSL limited. Other suppliers for the raw
materials are:

Reliance industries limited
Rajasthan spinning and weaving mill
Banswara synthex
Sangam India

WARPING SECTION
Objectives of warping:
1. To prepare continuous warp sheet beam according to given warp pattern, of required
length, width & no. of ends.
2. All of ends must be under uniform tension.

Process flow in warping section:

CREELS WARPING DRUMS WARP BEAM

Temperature & R.H. of section:
• Temperature - 270 to 320 C
•Relative humidity - 60% to 65%

Machinery used (warping drum & beam):
There are two models of machinery for the warping drum & beam.

MODEL A:

Manufacturer PRASHANT GAMATEX
Model Lasertronic 1080
Creel capacity 384
No. Of machine 02
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Salient features:
Solid steel drum (3.14 meters circumference).
Separate Warping & Beaming Structure.
Automatic section tension control having precise close loop yarn tension monitoring
by twin PLC.
Ball screws for all servo systems.
Pitch measuring through Laser Sensor. (Contactless)
Linear guide on under carriage.
Continuous Beam Oscillation. (adjustable)
Reverse Drum Rotation.
Automatic Leasing Function.
User-friendly Handy Operating Panel for Beaming.
Constant beaming tension
Large colour touch screen for desired process data.
Constant warping and beaming speed.
Lost end memory & auto during beaming.
Printer Interface.

1. Working width – 1800 to 4200 mm
2. Warping speed – 0 to 800 metre/min
3. beaming speed – 0 to 100 metre/min (can be increased if required)
4. beaming tension – 0 to 450 kg (can be increased if required)
5. Maximum beam diameter – 800 mm

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MODEL B:

Manufacturer PRASHANT GAMATEX
Model A - 217
Creel capacity 384
No. Of machines 05

Technical Specifications.
1. Manufacturer: Prashant Gamatex Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad.
2. Model: A – 217
3. Creel: 2(side) x 8(vertical) x 24(horizontal) = 384
4. Warping Speed: 0 - 650 meter /min (Maximum)
5. Beaming Speed: 0 -100 meter / min
6. Beaming Diameter: 800 mm – 1000 mm

Salient Features:

Reserve cone holders for next programme
Fixed cone height
Fully machined & Dynamically Balanced Metallic Drum
Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Auto Section Advancing
Accurate Warp density adjustment & Alignment
Frequency variable A/C Drive
Micro-Processor based controls
Electronic length measurement
Four line display showing continuous monitoring of warp length speed, section width
plus traverse & No. of section
Constant warping speed
Foot operated crawl speed
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Warping creel:
Machinery used – centrally controlled tensioner type (PRASHANT GAMATEX)

Salient Features
Quick and simple threading of yarn.
Continuously rotating tensioners through motor.
Positive spring loaded centrally controlled tensioners.
Automatic section tension control.
Optical sensing stop motion.
Integrated AIR BLOW-OFF cleaning

Technical specifications:
1. Creel capacity: 384

Production information:
Time taken to prepare 1 drum – 2 to 2.5 hours
Time taken to transfer the warp yarns from drum to beam – 40 mins-1 hours

Sample warper

Used mainly for silk
Auto safety stop
Software operated
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Tensioning device to avoid loose yarns


Model SW- 207
Drum circumference 7 metre
Warping yarn speed Upto 1000 metres
Warping length 14 – 280 metres
Beam flange diameter 1000mm

Few warping defects and their remedies:
Defect 1: High variation in tension within and between ends (slack ends).
Remedies: 1. make sure that the end has not come out of the tensioning device.
2. Winding height should be changed.

Defect 2: The surface of yarns, building on the beam, is not even and free, has ridges from
one selvedge to the other.
Remedies: 1. Comb width should match with the beam width.
2. Comb dents should be uniformly spaced.

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DRAWING-IN SECTION:
Once the beam is prepared in the warping section, it comes to the drawing in section. The
beam is kept on the beam stand and a person having complete details of the design, draft and
peg plan does the drawing in. Here one end of the warp yarn is passed through the heald
frame, drop pins and reeds.

Heald frame specifications:

Type C – type and J –types simplex
Length 331 mm, flat steel
Eye let size 5.5 * 1.2 mm
Strip size 5.5 *0.30 mm
Manufacturer Unique impex, Mumbai

Drop pin specification:

Model Open, electrical
Size 165*11*0.4 mm
Manufacturer Unique impex, mumbai

WEAVING SECTION
Weaving is a textile craft in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced to form
a fabric or cloth. The threads which run lengthways are called the warp and the threads which
run across from side to side are the weft or filling.
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Machineries used:

Manufacturer Model Reed space No. Of machines

Picanol Optimax Single width 12
85”
Sulzer – Ruti P 7100 Single width 76
85”
Sulzer – Ruti P 7100 Double width 16
153”
Sulzer – Ruti G 6200 Single width 36
85”
Total no. Of machine 140

Speed and efficiency:

Single width projectile loom: 350 – 400 RPM
Single width rapier loom: 300 – 350 RPM
Double width rapier loom: 250 – 270 RPM
Picanol: 375 – 450 RPM
Production capacity: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine
Production capacitty: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine
Production capacity of unit: 30000 meter per day at an efficiency of 80%

Accumulators:
Following models of accumulators are used:

Technomatex – Futura (Switzerland)
IWF – Sweden
ROJ – Electrotex AT – 1200
VIRIEL – Technomatex

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Accumulator Setting:
Electronic head of Accumulator has one ON/OFF switch & 4 settings are there,
1. Setting of winding Speed by a set screw.
2. Intensity of photocell can be changed according to type of weft yarn Texture or spun.
3. Amount of yarn wound on winding head by altering the position of photocell by the help of
rotating screw arranged with Rack-Pinion system.
4. NT / RT setting

Various mechanisms:

PROJECTILE LOOM

Warp insertion mechanism:

The key to the machine is the gripper projectile. In the picking position it takes over
the thread drawn from the supply package. After picking, it carries the thread into the
shed and is braked upon entering the receiving unit.
The thread is now taken over by the projectile feeder, held by the selvedge grippers,
cut by the scissors, released from the projectile and beaten up to the cloth.
The tucking needles then tuck in the thread ends, forming firm tucked-in selvedge.
Finally, the projectiles is ejected from the receiving unit and taken back to the picking
position by conveyer.
The projectiles are accelerated by a torsion bar. This is tensioned, storing the energy
needed for a flight through the shed. Following the release of a lock, it accelerates the
projectile smoothly and resumes its initial position at once.
The flight velocity of the projectile is determined by the torsion angle of the bar and
can therefore be matched.

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Beat Up mechanism:

A double cam assembly is mounted on the main shaft.
Both cams are working counter to each other.
A rocker is resting on cam with anti friction bowl. This is fasten to sley sword. Sley
sword keeps the reed support for final beat-up.
The cams are so designed that they provide sufficient dwell (220-250) for the traverse
of projectile.

Take Up mechanism:

Take - up drive of Sulzer draw and winds the cloth positively. Rate of take up can be
adjusted by means or change wheel. A combination of four wheels A,B,C,D is fitted
with a total of 12 change wheels it is possible to wheel weft density of 36 to 910
threads/ 10cm and forward up to1810picks/ 10cm by changing the worm gear.

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Let Off mechanism:

The purpose of the let- off drive is to pay out the warp sheet through turning the warp
sheet by warp beam and at the same time keeping the tension on warp constant. The
whip roller plays as the control element. It adjusts its height to the tension of the warp
and controls the let-off motion of let-off drive coupling by means of a bar. As the
winding diameter of the warp beam decreases, the whip roller moves gradually
downwards. As a result of this, the let-off increases and is matched automatically to
the winding diameter of the drum take-up.

Pick Finding mechanism:

When a pick is broken to find its position clutch is brought to pick finding position
(clutch is disengaged) and hand wheel is pull out and two turns are given to it. Then it
is brought to pick holding position and turn the hand wheel till the clutch returns to
earlier position. Thus dobby is turned on a pick back.

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RAPIER LOOMS
Weft insertion mechanism:

The key component of the machine is the set of rapier. There are two set of rapiers in
the machine having positive motion. The rapier takes the weft yarn from the supply
package. After picking it carries the yarn forward on a guide at the centre of the
machine another rapier receives the yarn, can carry it. In this way, the intervals for
rapier insertion and for rapier withdrawal are both used for weft insertion. Invariably,
on full width looms, only a single pick of yarn from a given supply package is
inserted, but it may be inserted as a loop up to the time of transfer, and the transferred
loop straightened out during rapier withdrawal from the shed (the loop-transfer or
Gabbler system). Yarn withdrawal from the weft package is thus completed at the
time of transfer.
It is the cut end of the weft which is transferred (end or tip transfer). The yarn clamps
in the rapier heads is positively actuated at the transfer (in addition to any positive
actuation at weft pick-up and release).

.

End Catching & Cutting mechanism:

The end catcher and cutter are attached and mounted on the sley. The end catcher
exchanges the weft yarn with the rapiers at the end of the withdrawal. The cutter

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comes into contact of the weft during beat up, due to the sley and reed motion, and
cuts the weft.

Technical specifications of P 7100 weaving machines:

The machine handles practically all types of yarns: spun yarn, filament yarn, fancy
yarn etc.
In the weft the machine processes staple fiber yarns from Nm 0.5-160 and
continuous filament yarns from 5000-10.8 denier.
Weft density is between 0.83-181.5 picks/cm. Maximum weft insertion rate 1200
meter / min. and speed upto 400 rpm.
Can work for upto four different weft colours.
Nominal width 190-540 cm.
Machine design is extremely compact.

Technical specification of G 6200 weaving machines:

Nominal width of the machine is 220 cms.
Can work for upto four different weft colours.
Stabuli jacquard for construction of selvadge.
Maximum weft insertion rate 900 – 1100 metre per minute.
Maximum working speed is 400 rpm.

Light signals in use:
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Blue light blinking: warp thread breakage.
Yellow light blinking: weft threads breakage.
Yellow and red light blinking: shut down via emergency switch.
Red light: mechanical fault.
Red light blinking when machine is working: electronic projectile detector or weft
detector switched off.

Sensors and stop motion:

Projectile sensor: It is a metallic sensor situated at the receiving side and it senses that
projectile is reaching at correct angle or not.
Let – off sensor: P7100 provides electronic let off. If tension in warp sheet decreases
the sensor senses it by suitable arrangement and motor regulates warp sheet
accordingly
Weft sensor: To sense the presence and absence of weft supply at receiving side.
Angle sensor: To stop the loom at correct angle at particular degree
Warp stop motion: Electrical warp stop motion work together with drop pin
attachments

INSPECTION

Grey checking section:

After weaving the fabric is brought to inspection section for grey checking. Here the fabric is
checked for any weaving related defect and the fabric are marked on the basis of number of
the defects the woven fabric contains.
Six automated fabric checking machines are used to check the fabric. Chalk is used to mark
the defects. Each machine can check 3000 to 4000 metres of fabric every day.

Grading of fabric on the basis of defect they contain are as follows:

0 -5 defects – A grade
6-12 defects – B grade
13 – 23 defects – C grade
24 and above defects – D grade

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Fabrics are checked for following defects during grey check:

Starting mark: An isolated narrow bar running parallel with the picks, starting
abruptly & gradually shading away to normal cloth. This is due to abrupt change in
the pick spacing followed by gradual coming back to normal pick spacing. Causes of
the defect.

1. Restarting weaving machine after pick finding.
2. Reed (loom) stops ahead from the place where it should stop (generally
loom stops at 400),so that sufficient moment is not generated during the
next pick beating and results in starting mark.

Weft Bar: A bar due to difference in material, count, twist, lusture or shade of the
adjacent groups of weft yarns.

Reed Marks: Irregular spacing between the groups of warp yarns across the width of
the fabric. The defect may be caused by a damaged or defected reed, i.e. dent opened
or gap is more than normal between two dents.

Missing ends / Ends out / Chira: This most commonly characterized by a gap of one
or more warp end in the fabric.
The main causes are:-
1. The weaver is careless, not mends broken ends immediately.
2. Missing ends in the beams.
3. Any end not passed from the heald & reed i.e. not drawn & remain missed.

Patti: Take up roller jammed or move slowly in between the regular process due to
some mechanical fault than a thick place or closer pick spacing results known as
Patti or thick bar.

Thin: Due to some mechanical fault take up roller moves little bit faster, gives a fault
known as thin bar.

Double pick: In plane weave if after loom stops due to pick breaking, loom is not
turned back to its initial position than two pick are comes in the same shed, resulting
the defect named double pick.

Design Cut: If the above defect occurs in the dobby design, design gets disturbed &
defect is known as design cut.

Temple mark: Holes or surface disturbances along the selvedge of a fabric due to bad
or improperly adjusted temples.

Slub: Fly accumulated at drop pin or heald wire goes along with the warp in the fabric
create slub in the fabric, gives defect in finishing if not removed.

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Pattern Break: Shed not opened properly due to some mechanical fault,
gives pattern break.

Broken pattern: This defect may be due to wrong drawing of threads, inserting a
pick in the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp threads.

Cracks: A narrow streak parallel to the weft due to the pronounced opening between
two adjacent yarns. Any loom condition that permits erratic operation of the sley or
yarn of its parts will create cracks in the fabric.
A loosed-reed, that is, one that has excess freedom in the sley, will also caused this
defect. A take-up motion which is sticking may produce cracks in the fabric.

Floats stitches: A place in the fabric where warp & weft yarns escape the required
interlacement. This defect is caused by Entanglement of warp threads due to delay in
repairing a broken end, knots with long tail ends, breakage of wire healds on running
loom, unsatisfactory working of warp stop motion. With synthetic yarns, due to static
electricity generation, there is a tendency for the adjacent ends to roll during weaving,
this results floats or stitches less opening of shed.

Stains: Stains on the fabric are measure serious problems in textile mills. Majority of
the stains occur at loom shed only. There are various kinds of stains.
E.g. oil, grease, rust, dirt, soil, carbon particles in air, sweat, crayon, box mark etc.

Most of the stains can be traced back to poor material handling, lack of care on the
part of workers and poor oiling and cleaning practices. Certain stains can be removed
by solvent but it involves additional cost.

Wrong warp pattern: Wrong order of drawing the ends through the reed or wrong
order of drawing the ends through the healds.

Few other weaving related defects are:
1. Loose picks
2. Loose ends
3. Selvadge damages
4. Yarn damages
5. Double twek.
6. Lashing

MENDING

Totally fault free fabric cannot be manufactured on the loom. They are some small or extra
faults that occur in fabric during manufacturing.
But some faults along these could be mendable .They can be eliminated easily.

Total number of mending table – 150
Total number of workers – 160
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The particular fabric incoming from weaving department is firstly stored in grey mending
store. Each fabric piece carries with their „PIECE TICKET‟ which is having various
particulars about fabric. According to date of delivery, fabric pieces are arranged in sequence
systematic manner. Earlier fabric first took for mending. The fabric piece is
Given to mender for mending with its piece ticket. These are the following faults that will
mend by the mending department:
Broken end/ pick, missing end / pick, reed mark, floating ends, pattern mistake,
contamination, naps, slubs, knots, oily yarn etc.

After mending the fabric is rechecked again. The defect free fabrics are sent to the rolling
department to create rolls of the fabric. After rolls have been created the fabrics are sent to
the dispatch department, the fabrics from dispatch department are sent to BPL for further
processing of the fabric.

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PROCESSING

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TEXTILE PROCESSING
Textile processing is one of the important industries related with textile
manufacturing operations. This industry has a long history that begins with "Indigo dyeing" a
natural colour, derived from a plant.
Once the process of colouring textiles was considered as an art. According to ones creativity
and imagination on those days numerous techniques were evolved in colouring different
materials such as cotton, bamboo, jute, earthen-ware and even mortar walls. Slowly this
technique was evolved in to a science and so many artificial colouring matters called
'dyestuffs' had started coming in to existence.
This evolution of colouring matters in to synthetic dyestuff and the application techniques on
various textile materials are all put together is called 'Textile Processing,
Textile processing is a general term that covers right from singeing (protruding fibre
removal) to finishing and printing of fabric.

BSL LTD (PROCESSING DIVISION)
It is the integrated unit/department of the LNJ Bhilwara Group for the post weaving
processing.
The department is divided into

Tops & Fibre dyeing Department,
Fabric dyeing & Processing Department, &
Silk dyeing.

FABRIC DYEING DEPARTMENT
This is the department for dyeing & finishing processes of the fabric supplied from weaving
department.

Raw material godown:
Its main objective is to store and warehousing of the fabric lot for dyeing and finishing
processes. Fabric lot is supplied along with the lot memo & quality instructions.

Types of fabric lot:

FIBRE DYED FABRIC

PIECE DYED FABRIC (GREY FABRIC)
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Here fabric is stitched together to get the appropriate length of the fabric and passed for the
next processes.

POLYESTER VISCOSE FIBRE DYED FABRIC
Scouring
Scouring is the process of removal of natural oil substances like waxes, fats and pectin's as
well as added impurities like lubricating oil, dust, dirt and residual starch in the cotton
materials .

Machineries in uses:

Pacific jigger machine
 Model: Pacific Jigger machine
 Manufacturer: Harish industries limited

1. – C ( depends on the material being used )
2. 1000 – 1200 meters of fabric can be loaded at once.
3. Time required – 5 to 6 hours
4. Steam pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber.
5. Double beam jiggers have two beams.
No. of machines – 2

Jigger
 Manufacture: Bennigner – Manekar

1. – C ( depends on the material being used )
2. 400 – 500 meters of fabric can be loaded at once.
3. Time required – 4 to 5 hours
4. Double beam jiggers have only one beam.
5. Stem pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber.
No. of machines – 16

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Jumbo Jigger
 Manufacturer: Bennigner – Manekar

1. They are the high capacity jigger machine and works on the same principle.
2. Operating temperature – C ( depends on the material being used )
3. 1200 – 1400 meters of fabric can be loaded once in the chamber.
4. Time required: 6 hours
No. of machines: 3

Things to be kept in mind while using jigger machines:
1. The machine should be properly cleaned before loading the fabric in machine for
processing.
2. Temperature should be properly maintained according to the requirement of the fabric
being processed.
3. Care should be taken while using the chemicals and should be used according to the
specifications given by the supervisors.

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Relax Scouring Machine:

 Manufacturer: Dhall Enterprises and Engineers Pvt. Ltd.

Parts of the range:
1. Fabric feeding system,
2. Guide rollers,
3. Caustic soda tank,
4. Soap tank,
5. squeeze rollers,
6. Expander rollers,
7. Steam chambers- 2 continuous, separate chambers (drums within it),
8. Pleater,
9. Storage chamber,
10. Intermediate mangles,
11. Hot wash chamber
12. Acid wash chamber, &
13. Take off system

Salient Features:

Universal plant for woven pile and knitted fabrics.
Maximum washing performance by specific use of mechanical washing elements,
time, temperature, and chemicals.
Uniform and gentle liquor flow through the fabric.
Even fabric surface with best fastness value.
Low tension and crease-free fabric run with minimum residual shrinkage values.
Draft-free and safe fabric transportation even at highest speeds.
Low consumption of water and energy due to specific fresh water metering, counter-
current flow and optimized bath volume.
Process control system.
Easy-operation and easy maintenance of design.
Excellent washing results, reproducible at any time and assurance of required degree
of fastness.
All range can be automated.

Technical Specifications:

Fabric width: 800 - 3000 MM In graduations of + 200 MM
Roller faced width: Fabric width + 200 MM
Guide rollers Dia: 125/150 Dia
Squeeze rollers: Dia 254 MM
Expander rollers: Bow type Sleeve Expanders 100, 125 MM Dia or Scroll Rollers
driven in counter direction.
Intermediate mangles: 0-3 tonnes
Final mangles: T or 10 Tonnes NIP pressure
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DYEING MACHINES:
At Bhilwara processosors limite following two types of dyeing machines are used:

1. Beam dyeing machine
2. Jet dyeing machine

BEAM DYEING MACHINE:

In beam dyeing machine the beam is created first by wounding the full length fabric on a
perforated beam. After creating the beam the beam is inserted into the beam dyeing machine.
In this type of dyeing the fabric is kept stationary and the dye liquor is circulated. This type
of dyeing have good colour fastness.

Machinery in use:
 Beam dyeing machine
 Manufacturer – Dalal Engineering works
PH to be maintained – 4 to 5
– – c
Time taken for one lot – 4 hours
c and is allowed to work for half and hour, the temperature is
increased by certain amount to certain limit at regular interval of time.

JET DYEING MACHINE:
Jet dyeing is a very efficient contact between the dye liquor and fabric is obtained by both are
in constant movement. This result improved level of dyeing shorter dyeing time. Fabric is
circulated through the dye bath in rope form. The movement of the fabric occurs by
circulating the dye-liquor through a venture jet.
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Machinery in use:
 Manufacturer – hegatex industries limited
PH of the jet dyeing machine – 4 to 5
Speed of fabric – 250 to 400 meters per minute.
Length of fabric that can be fed at once – 550 to 600 metres
– c
Time taken to complete the process: 90 minutes to 2 hours

STENTER MACHINE
 Model: 6 chamber stenter machine
 Manufacture: yammuna textile industries
Stenter machine is used primarily for heat setting. But also give several finishes to the fabric.
In this machine fabric is passed through a tank containing the chemicals required to provide
the finish to the fabric, then it is passed through a padding mangle when the liquid is
squeezed for the fabric. The chain in the machine then carry the fabric to the chambers where
the temperature is high and there are two blowers one at the bottom and another one at the top
to blow hot air in the chamber which is responsible for the heat setting.

HEAT SETTING
It is a term used in the textile industry to describe a thermal process taking place mostly in
either a steam atmosphere or a dry heat environment. The effect of the process
gives fibers,yarns or fabric dimensional stability and, very often, other desirable attributes
like higher volume, wrinkle resistance or temperature resistance. Very often, heat setting is
also used to improve attributes for subsequent processes. Yarns tend to increased torquing
just after spinning, cabling or twisting. Heat setting can influence or even eliminate this
tendency to undesirable torquing.
1. – c depending on the type of fabric being
processed
2. Mangle pressure – 4 to 6 kg per cm sq.
Number of stenter machine – 5

SINGEING MACHINE:
 Manufacturer – OSTOFF singe
In this process fuzzy and protruding fibres are removed by burning them off. The main
purposes are the fabrics that are required a clear and smooth surface for printing Usually
performed on both sides of the fabric
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In a singer, a fabric is passed over open flame at very high speed (200-400 mts/min) to
prevent scorching, then passed through water ( or de-sizing bath) to extinguish any sparks.
Uneven singeing may lead unlevel dyeing. Therefore, the fabric is passed through singer
flat,in open width and under slight tension. The gas burner should be properly controlled and
maintained; otherwise streaky dyeing may occur .

Specifications:
Double Jet Burner
Automatic Flame width adjustment
Four singeing positions, centring devices, slat rollers, counter rotating scroll rolls
Sequencing unit
Speed – 100 metre/ mimute (can be maintained according the fabric requirement)
Flame intensity can also be controlled.

KIER DECATISISING MACHINE
 Model - PF – 2000
 Manufacturer – TMT, Italy
Decatising or decatizing, also known as crabbing, blowing, and decating, is the process of
making permanent a textile finish on a cloth.

Specifications:
1. Working width: 1700 meters
2. 3 decatizing cylinders with a diameter of 460 mm
3. Two beams have wrapper above them and one of them is vacant.
4. Exit with roll device.
5. Length of fabric rolled at once is 800 metres.
1 roll take half an hour for decatising out which th machine is placed in kier for 15 to 20
mins. Other 10 minutes are for cooling. It complete the chemical finishes being given
to the fabric by baking the fabric using stem.
Production capacity of the machine - 25000 m everyday approximately.

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CALENDERING MACHINE:
 Model - 3 bowl calendar machine
 Manufacturer – prabhat textile corporation
Calendering is a finish process given to the fabric to give shine and lusture to the fabric. It is
done to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the fabric.
Specifications:

Running speed – 5 to 30 meter per minute , it is generally operated at 25 to 28 meter
per minute speed.
Pressure – 2 to 35 tons
– c
Roller face diameter – 600 mm to 3800 mm
Top bow diameter – 200 mm
Embossing roll diameter – 460 mm
Heating element – electric pipe heating
No. Of Calendering machine - 2

SUPER FINISHING MACHINE
 Manufacturer – Prabhat textile corporation
Super finishing is another finish process given to the fabric. It has the same function as that of
the Calendering machine i.e. to enhance the physical finishes of the fabric, but the finish
produced by this machine is superior in quality to that of the Calendering machine. It is
generally done on expensive fabric or on the specification of the buyer.
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62

Specifications:
1. No. Of bowls – 6
2. Speed of the machine – 25 to 30 meter per minute
3. – c

DRYING RANGE:
 Manufacturer: yammuna textiles machinery
Drying range is used to dry the fabric after scouring, dyeing and several such processes. The
machine contains a tank where washing of the fabric takes place prior to dry on the seam
heated drums.
Specifications:
1. Total number of drums – 20
2. Number of Teflon coated drums – 10
3. Speed of the machine – 50 metre per minute ( can be controlled according to the
requirement)
4. Pressure of the steam in the drum – 1.5 to 4 kg per cm sq.
5. Mangle pressure – 2.5 to 5 kg.
The fabric is passed through the soap solution in tank one which washes the fabric. Then it is
passed through a padding mangle which squeezes the water out of the fabric, after that fabric
is passed through 1st set of Teflon coated rollers where 75% of the drying takes place. After
that the fabric passes through the 2nd set of stainless steel roller where the fabric is completely
dried out and a certain level of shine also comes to the fabric.

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PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR FIBRE DYED FABRIC (POLYESTER VISCOSE)

GREY
FABRIC

GREY
SCOURING

DRYING

HEAT SET

SINGENING

DECATISING

FINISHING

FOLDING

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64

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR PIECE DYED (POLYESTER VISCOSE)

GREY SCOURING

ROPE OPENING(IF REQD.)

DRYING

HEAT SET

POLYESTER
DYEING

DRYING

SINGEING

VISCOSE DYEING

DRYING

DECATISING

FINISHING

FOLDING

BANGALORE

65

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL AND WOOL WORSTED
FABRICS (FIBRE DYED)

GREY FABRIC

HEAT SET

SINGEING

SCOURING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING / CHECKING

SHEARING

MECHANICAL FINISH

FOLDING

BANGALORE

66

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL FABRIC (PIECE DYED)

GREY FABRIC

SCOURING

DRYING

HEAT SET

DYEING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING & CHECKING

SINGEING

SCOURING

HYDRO EXTRACTION

DRYING & CHECKING

SHEARING

MECHANICAL FINISH

FOLDING

BANGALORE

67

TOPS & FIBRE DYEING DEPARTMENT
It is the department where the fibres, tops & yarns are being dyed.

Raw material gowdown:

Here the fibres, tops(slivers) & yarns are stored. Raw material is stored with its proper detail.

Fibres (supplied
from spiinning raw
material section)

tops (supplied from
Raw Material spinning
section/exported)

yarns (supplied
from spinning
section/exported)

DYEING ROOM:
Spring convertor:

Here the cones of yarns are converted into the spring (which is suitable for the carrier of
yarns in dyeing).

HT/HP DYEING MACHINE:

HT/HP dyeing machine is used for following processes:

Fibre Dyeing

Tops Dyeing

Yarn dyeing.

Wool Scouring.

The machine has specific carriers for each of the above mentioned dyeing processes.

Dyeing carriers are classified into 3 sections according to their weights:

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68

1 kg, 1.5 kg and 2kg carriers are used for fibre and tops dyeing depending
upon the requirement of the quantity to be dyed.

Tops are loaded in the carrier with the help of pressing machine and spindles while yarns and
fibres are loaded and compressed manually in the specified carrier. Then the carriers are
placed into the dyeing machine (with the help of electronic carriers – which hangs the carrier
and carry it to the vessel and place it into the vessel) and water is circulated in the dyeing
chamber. The water is heated with the help of steam coils provided at the bottom of the
dyeing m c the dye is added in the
chamber (along with acetic acid, leveller and water softeners) and the temperature is
gradually raised according to the specified requirements. The ph of dye bath is maintained at
4.5-5 during the dyeing process.

c

c

Requirements for HT/HP dyeing:

Total time consumed for dyeing medium and light shades: 1.45 hours.

Total time consumed for dyeing heavy shades: 2 hours.

Softener used for dyeing: Metashear.

The dyed materials are unloaded, with the help of electronic controlled loading/ unloading
device, from the vessel. Then the dyed material goes for the drying.

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RF Drier for fibres.

Tumble Drier (hydro extractor) & Hot Air Drier for tops and yarns.

The dyed fibres/tops/yarns are packaged and sent to the concerned departments as per the
specified requirements.

Salient features of HT/HP Dyeing:

The top dyeing route allows us to make mixture or melange shades, which is not possible in
other yarn dyeing systems.

Top dyed production results in yarns for the highest quality woven goods, upholstery,
machine knitwear, hosiery and hand-knitting.

Dye from the finest to the coarsest of wools, and those that have been shrink resist
treated for machine washable knitwear.

Include ranges of natural fibres are noble fibres such as cashmere, alpaca, mohair,
vicuna and silk.

Polyesters and nylon tops are dyed, predominantly for blending with wool.

Technical features of HT/HP dyeing machine:

Uniform dyeing

Low running cost

Reversible pump
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Injector pump

Low ML Ratio 1:3

Fully automatic operation

DRIERS:
Radio Frequency Dryer

R.F. Technology

In a radio frequency heating system the RF generator creates an alternating electric field
between two electrodes. The material to be heated is conveyed between the electrodes where
the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the material to continuously reorient
themselves to face opposite poles much like the way bar magnets behave in an alternating
magnetic field. The friction resulting from molecular movement causes the material to
rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.

The amount of heat generated in the product is determined by the frequency, the square of the
applied voltage, dimensions of the product and the dielectric loss factor of the material, which
is essentially a measure of the ease with which the material can be heated by radio frequency
waves.

Advantages

For those applications that require uniform heating and precise temperature control
RF offers many advantages over conventional drying methods.

Uniform heating through entire thickness

2 to 20 times faster than conventional drying methods

Energy efficient

Uniform moisture profiling

Low maintenance

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PROCESS FLOWCHART FOR POLYESTER TOPS

POLYESTER TOPS

REBALLING &
CENTRE PULLING

PRESSING

DYEING

HYDRO
EXTRACTION

RF DRYING

PACKING

DESPATCH

BANGALORE

72

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER FIBRE

POLYESTER
FIBRE

PRESSING

DYEING
FINISHING

HYDRO
EXTRACTION

RF DRYING

OPENING OF
FIBRE

PACKING

DESPATCH

BANGALORE

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